Rebuilding compression dictionaries and more questions

Is there a way to rebuild all compression dictionaries currently existing in the database? I don't want to have to go to DB02 and click on every table to rebuild the dictionary. SO far I haven't found a solution.
How often should one rebuild teh compression dictionary? BI, CRM ERP???

Similar Messages

More and more questions don't provide any details. Is anyone going to address this?

I notice that with the advent of the new forum software apparently asking a question has been made easier.
This results in almost 99 percent of all posters not consulting documentation and not providing any details (IE no four digit Oracle version and no platform info).
Also there are people who clearly are asking you to do their documentation searches.
I was wondering whether anything can be done about addressing this.
I'm not holding my breath, but I wonder why people here continue to spoon feed 'DBAs' who are clearly too lazy to do anything (except using these forums as a chat room) to resolve their issues.
Regards,
Sybrand Bakker
Senior Oracle DBA

Yes, the "Announcements" are badly shown and don't stand out, meaning the SQL and PL/SQL FAQ is only visible by chance as the announcements switch automatically every 30 seconds (or whatever the timing is).
I was considering asking Sonya if it was ok for me to remove the other announcement as it doesn't really add any value, and that would just leave the FAQ announcement as the only one, so making it a little more visible.
Maybe if Sonya sees this thread/discussion she can give us her opinion on that.
URL to the SQL and PL/SQL forum so Sonya can see what we're on about... PL/SQL
As to sybrand's question... I really don't know what we can do about it apart from just pointing people to the FAQ if they don't ask properly.
I guess it would help if the editor was fixed so it was easier to post code nicely, but that still won't make people post all the details.

Suggestions for archiving an iPhoto library? (and more questions)

Ok, so here is my issue:
Over 12,000 photos
Over 65GB
New camera that doubles the average file size of most previous pics to ~3MB
I've thought about starting a new library and archiving the current one, but there is one thing I am scared of: having an old library sitting around and not getting progressively updated. The times I have had problems with my library have been when skipping between versions of iPhoto and the library essentially gets "combo" updated (not the program itself, but when it updates the library files as it often does).
I don't think I would like to access the library from an external. It was a mess when I did it with iTunes, and regardless of available space, I think a new library that doesn't have any left over data from when it was started in 2002-2003 would be a good idea.
With that out of the way:
What are your ideas?
What have you done for this?
Just in case there is a drastic change like Final Cut X, or it is dropped like iWeb/iDVD in 10 or 100 years in the future, how can I make a clean backup that does not rely on iPhoto? ("show package contents" is just messy as I have many modified and don't require the originals in those cases.).
Any thing else that I haven't thought of, or any sites you could point me to or personal experiences with this would be great. Thank you!

There are several different questions in there.
I've thought about starting a new library and archiving the current one, but there is one thing I am scared of: having an old library sitting around and not getting progressively updated.
Simple solution: keep progressively updating it? In other words, use it all the time. Move your existing Library to an external drive.
Make sure the drive is formatted Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
1. Quit iPhoto
2. Copy the iPhoto Library from your Pictures Folder to the External Disk.
Now you have two full versions of the Library.
3. On the Internal library, trash the Events you don't want there
Now you have a full copy of the Library on the External and a smaller subset on the Internal
Some Notes:
As a general rule: when deleting photos do them in batches of about 100 at a time. iPhoto can baulk at trashing large numbers at one go.
You can choose which Library to open: Hold down the option (or alt) key key and launch iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library'
You can keep the Library on the external updated with new imports using iPhoto Library Manager
Think of it this way: You have a Master Library which contains everything and another which contains more current material.
I don't think I would like to access the library from an external. It was a mess when I did it with iTunes, and regardless of available space, I think a new library that doesn't have any left over data from when it was started in 2002-2003 would be a good idea.
There is no reason not to use an external as described above, This is also true of iTunes. I have no idea why you might regard it as a benefit not have data from 2002. It's much more convenient to have all the data in one Library.. If it was a mess when you did it with iTunes then respectfully I suggest that maybe you didn’t do it right . My iTunes Library runs to hundreds of gigs so it has to reside on externals, and does with no problems.
Getting Photos out of iPhoto is simple and safe: File -> Export. You can choose to export Masters. Or just current versions and so on.
Apps like iPhoto2Disk or PhotoShare will help you export to a Folder tree matching your Events.

Help,pls!! Multiple choices in Form4.5 and more questions

Hi, All.
I have some difficult questions. Any reply will be greatly
appreciated!
1. Is it possible to make multiple choice in a Form? It is known
that there is only one choice in LOV or List Item. ( That is
like : select ... from ...where :block1.Id= Order.order_Id )
What I would like to do is : select ...
from ...where :block.Id in ( select ...from...where...) Such
subquery will return at least five values. Can this be possibly
developed in Forms (4.5)? or should use VBX?
2.'Copy' function in Forms. I want to insert two records. The
second has the same value as the first except PK_VALUE. e.g.
1.Record A,B,C,D,E
2.Record M,B,C,D,E
The problem is whenever I do inserting in a Form, all columns are
blank and waiting for entering data. Is it possible to just
input 'F', and the other columns will be inserted automatically
as same as previous one ('B','C','D','E,')?
3.To concatenate comment statement of two reports.
I have two reports. Each has its own comment column.
Now I want to concatenate these two comments and insert it into
a new report. Is it possible in Reports2.5?
I have thought of these problems for a long time, but I still
can't solve
them. I am not sure whether I can do such things in Dev 2k? Or
it can be developed in Dev 6.0?
Please help me!
Best regards
Mike Ding
mailto:[email protected]
null

Hi Priya ,
                 I have coded your example and it works fine for me
Please have see at the code.
tables : lips,vbak,vbap.
data : begin of itab occurs 0 ,
          vbelv like lips-vbelv,
          lfimg like lips-lfimg,
       end of itab.
PARAMETER: p_werks like vbap-werks.
select-options : s_vbeln for vbak-vbeln,
                 s_posnr for vbap-posnr.
select VBELV LFIMG from LIPS into corresponding fields of table ITAB where VBELV in S_VBELN and POSNV in S_POSNR.
I had entered value for s_vbeln 31 from 331
and s_posnr 10 20 and it gave me correct entries coz for order number 331 there were two entries in lips so multiple entries worked.
Please check the code with my code.
Please reward if useful.

Display issue with old TV and more questions

Hi,
I'm trying to connect my 24" iMac to an older model TV with RCA and S-Video input. I haven't attempted to connect using S Video but i do have the adaptor for the iMac to use the Yellow RCA cable. I understand that it automatically changes the resoltion to adapt to the TV resolution but my question is this.
Does S-Video result in a clearer picture with the TV? Because right now it is virtually unusable because of the picture quality. I have tried to reduce the resolution from the iMac with no prevail. Should i pick up an S-Video cable today?
#2 - Can i turn off the monitor from the iMac without it touching the TV display?
#3 - I only have two sets of inputs on the back of this TV one for the Tivo and one for the Xbox 360. What would i need to add this additional input and change it remotely?
Any help with these is greatly appreciated!

Hi D to the M
You will do better turning Mirroring Off and select the proper resolution for each, when your running that setup in Mirror mode the resolutions are not matched and it goofs up the iMacs resolution. This will also be true using an S-Video cable, but the overall picture quality should be slightly better. Note that the TV will probably not make a good display for working windows, but will be decent for watching movies, video clips, viewing slideshows and photos.
My same TV setup has been connected up for over 2 years, and I just switch the TV off or select another input source.
Dennis

Help! Which Java IDE should I choose, and more questions....

Hello Oracle experts here, I am a college student and I have some questions about Oracle installation to consult you. These days I am learning Oracle, an currently I want to install Oracle on my PC. However I met two problems:
1. Since I am a novice to learn Oracle, which Oracle products do you recommend? (Oracle8i Lite? Oracle8i Personal Edition? Oracle8i Enterprise Edition? other products?). I am currently learning PL/SQL and JDBC programming associated with Oracle, maybe something else later.
2. I want to upgrade my win98 to Win2000(Professional or Server version), From your point of view, which OS is better to install for learning Oracle? Win2000 Professional version or Server version(my PC is an PIII and with 192MBytes memory)?
3. In order to learn JDBC programming related with Oracle, which IDE is better to use? Is JDeveloper a kind of IDE? Is this it the best choose?
Maybe the above questions seems naive to you, but I really need your help! Your suggestions to any of the above questions are welcome.
Thanks!!!
null

1. Enterprise, about the same dl as personal, so why not.
2. Win2k Pro will do nicely(dont bother with Server, unless u need server for other purposes as well)
3. JDeveloper is good, however as a newbie i think u should start out in notepad or alike.

Load new pictures to exiting events and more questions.

When I load new pictures to iphoto how can I add them to existing events?
When I create albums do the pictures I put in there get "copied" or are they just linking to the originals in events? I don't want to rack up all my memory creating albums.
If I add, modify, or delete pictures in the events will it update my albums too?
How can I resize a picture to load it too ebay or something?
Where are the actuall files kept on the hard drive so I can copy them to a flash drive or something?

Welcome to the Apple Discussions.
When I load new pictures to iphoto how can I add them to existing events?
You can't. You can move them once they are imported by drag and drop, or by flagging the pics and then selecting your target Event and going Events menu -> Add Flagged Photos to Selected Event.
When I create albums do the pictures I put in there get "copied" or are they just linking to the originals in events? I don't want to rack up all my memory creating albums.
They are simply referenced. A pic can be in 1,000 Albums and use no more disk space than if it were in 1. A pic cannot be in more than one Event without being duplicated. In any case, it's not your Memory that would get used up, it's your HD space.
If I add, modify, or delete pictures in the events will it update my albums too?
If you add pics to an Event they will not be automatically added to an Album unless it is a Smart Album. As the pics in an Album are referenced, if you edit the pic in an Event it's edited in the Album, if you trash pic from an Event it's removed from the Album etc.
How can I resize a picture to load it too ebay or something?
Select the pic in the iPhoto Window and use the File -> Export command. In the resulting window you have various options, including resizing the pic.
Where are the actuall files kept on the hard drive so I can copy them to a flash drive or something?
By default your Library is in your Pictures Folder. It's called the, er, iPhoto Library. It's a Package File. This is simply a folder that looks like a file in the Finder. The change was made to the format of the iPhoto library because many users were inadvertently corrupting their library by browsing through it with other software or making changes in it themselves.
Want to see inside: Right click on the Library icon and go 'Show Package Contents'. A Finder window opens with the Library exposed.
Standard Warning: Don't change anything in the iPhoto Library Folder via the Finder or any other application. iPhoto depends on the structure as well as the contents of this folder. Moving things, renaming things or otherwise making changes will prevent iPhoto from working and could even cause you to damage or lose your photos.
There are many, many ways to access your files in iPhoto:
*For Users of 10.5 Only*
You can use any Open / Attach / Browse dialogue. On the left there's a Media heading, your pics can be accessed there. Apple-Click for selecting multiple pics.
Uploaded with plasq's Skitch!
You can access the Library from the New Message Window in Mail:
Uploaded with plasq's Skitch!
*For users of 10.4 and 10.5* ...
Many internet sites such as Flickr and SmugMug have plug-ins for accessing the iPhoto Library. If the site you want to use doesn’t then some, one or any of these will also work:
To upload to a site that does not have an iPhoto Export Plug-in the recommended way is to Select the Pic in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export and export the pic to the desktop, then upload from there. After the upload you can trash the pic on the desktop. It's only a copy and your original is safe in iPhoto.
This is also true for emailing with Web-based services. However, if you're using Gmail you can use iPhoto2GMail
If you use Apple's Mail, Entourage, AOL or Eudora you can email from within iPhoto.
If you use a Cocoa-based Browser such as Safari, you can drag the pics from the iPhoto Window to the Attach window in the browser.
*If you want to access the files with iPhoto not running*:
Create a Media Browser using Automator (takes about 10 seconds) or use this free utility Karelia iMedia Browser
Other options include:
1. *Drag and Drop*: Drag a photo from the iPhoto Window to the desktop, there iPhoto will make a full-sized copy of the pic.
2. *File -> Export*: Select the files in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export. The dialogue will give you various options, including altering the format, naming the files and changing the size. Again, producing a copy.
3. *Show File*: Right- (or Control-) Click on a pic and in the resulting dialogue choose 'Show File'. A Finder window will pop open with the file already selected.
You can set Photoshop (or any image editor) as an external editor in iPhoto. (Preferences -> General -> Edit Photo: Choose from the Drop Down Menu.) This way, when you double click a pic to edit in iPhoto it will open automatically in Photoshop or your Image Editor, and when you save it it's sent back to iPhoto automatically. This is the only way that edits made in another application will be displayed in iPhoto.
Regards
TD

Do I need to uninstall programs with a Mac? and more questions.

Aloha all,
I am about 3 days old with my new Macbook. I love it and am almost completely sold to Macs forever. This thing is wonderful.
However, I still dont know all the answers yet and need some help.
I tried to download the Microsoft video player to view a vid online. It never installed properly for some reason, and I just want to know if it even is still on my HD. Do I have to uninstall things like you do on Windows? Where do I go and how do I do this?
Also, I downloaded the newest version of itunes today, yet in my applications folder there is still one itunes icon and a white HD looking icon that says itune 6.0.5. Is that normal?
Hope that made sense.
Thanks for you help in advance.

I tried to download the Microsoft video player to
view a vid online. It never installed properly for
some reason,
You might want to use Flip4Mac instead.
If you are downloading Windows Media Player you will also need to download Stuffit Expander as Microsoft have used Stuffit to compress the installation file and Tiger now no longer comes with Stuffit.
Once you have expanded the .sit file you can then run the Windows Media Player installer.
VLC which is a universal binary
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/download-macosx.html
Flip4Mac allows you to play Windows Media files through Quicktime, however it is not a universal binary so
a) you have to run the installer app through Rosetta to install Flip4Mac
b) Quicktime also has to run through Rosetta to play Windows Media files with Flip4Mac
c) Safari (and other browsers) need to run through Rosetta to play embedded Windows Media files on webpages
and I just want to know if it even is
still on my HD.
Probably.
Do I have to uninstall things like
you do on Windows? Where do I go and how do I do
this?
Depends on the application.
Some have uninstallers (similar to Windows).
Others can be simply dragged to the trash.
Also, I downloaded the newest version of itunes
today, yet in my applications folder there is still
one itunes icon and a white HD looking icon that says
itune 6.0.5. Is that normal?
Yes. That is a mounted disk image. You can safely drag it to the trash.
Hope that made sense.
ditto
iFelix

Order being processed for 24 hours and more questions

i ordered lightroom 5 yesterday and my troubles begain immediately. first of all, while creating my billing adress, i was given the option to choose as coubtry of residence usa, mexico or canada - since i had to choose sth i chose mexico even though i'm from greece. afteri placed my order and up to that moment, 24 hrs later, my order is being processed, a notice in spanish tells me every time i check. what do i do??

It can take up to 48 hours for the orders to be processed, according to http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/adobe-stores-online-order-payment-faq.ht ml
If it still doesn't go through, try Adobe’s one-to-one chat support at http://adobe.ly/yxj0t6

I want to upgrade my Hard Drive to 1TB and more. What is the maximun Hard Drive I can install for a MacBook Pro 2009 Yesterday, I tried a SEAGATE SSHD but my screen was always a showing a QUESTION MARK (?). It's not the cable because when I put back

I want to upgrade my Hard Drive to 1TB and more.
What is the maximun Hard Drive I can install for a MacBook Pro 2009
Yesterday, I tried a SEAGATE SSHD but my screen was always a showing a QUESTION MARK (?). It's not the cable because when I put back the old original version, everything works...Any sugestion of brabnding or procédure to upgrade my hard drive?

The largest 2.5" dia SATA drives available are 2 TB in capacity.
Have you tried the Seagate SSHD connected externally to the MBP via USB? The drive itself may be faulty.
Ciao.
Here is a good place to start looking for a replacement drive:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/2.5-Notebook/

1 more newb question and 1 question just to ask it

Hello again everyone, i just have a couple more questions, i know Safari is a web browser but am i correct in assuming it is a high-speed/broadband-like web-browser? I am currently using AOL high-speed broadband on my PC but i dont plan on using aol when i switch to mac, so will safari just take my current high-speed connection and use it just as fast as Aol was?
also, in debating between the $2,000 macbook pro and the $2,500, the only unupgradeable difference i can see it the video card being a Radeon X1600 128 or a Radeon X1600 256, now i plan on playing games on it, but it there that big of a difference between the 128 and the 256?
THANKS IN ADVANCE ALL
Sony Windows XP

Hi, TheMacNewb.
You wrote: "also, in debating between the $2,000 macbook pro and the $2,500, the only unupgradeable difference i can see it the video card being a Radeon X1600 128 or a Radeon X1600 256, now i plan on playing games on it, but it there that big of a difference between the 128 and the 256"If you are a "gamer" — especially if you play 3D games — then you want the MacBook Pro. See this May 2006 review of the MacBook in Macworld.
If you purchase a MacBook Pro, I'd opt for the fastest/largest VRAM graphics card available, i.e. the "ATI Mobility Radeon X1600 with 256MB GDDR3 memory."
Good luck!
Dr. Smoke
Author: Troubleshooting Mac® OS X

Firefox 4b7 does not complete «More Answers from-» action on Formspring.me userpages; previous Firefox (3.6) was able to load more questions and answers

Even in safe mode, Firefox 4b7 is not able to complete «More Answers from…» action on Formspring.me userpages, it just displays «loading more questions…» for a seemingly endless amount of time. (Firefox 3.6 and any other browser, such as Safari, displays «loading more questions…» for a short period of time when AJAX works, then the questions and answers are actually loaded and displayed.) In order to reproduce, load Firefox 4b7 in Safe Mode, visit www.formspring.me/krylov and click on «More Answers from Konstantin Krylov» (the bottom link). You may try any other user, www.formspring.me/teotmin or www.formspring.me/anandaya for example.

what a waste of money sending an engineer to "fix a fault" which does not exist. Precisely.
In my original BE post to which Tom so helpfully responded, I began: It seems to me that DLM is an excellent concept with a highly flawed implementation, both technically and administratively. I think that sending out an engineer to fix an obviously flawed profile is the main example of an adminastrative flaw. I understand (I can't remember source, maybe Tom again) that they are sometimes relaxing the requirement for a visit before reset.
Maybe the DLM system is too keen on stability vs speed. This will keep complaints down from many people: most users won't notice speed too much as long as it is reasonable, but will be upset if their Skype calls and browsing are being interrupted too often.
However, it does lead to complaints from people who notice the drops after an incidence (as in your thread that has drawn lots of interest), or who only get 50 instead of 60. The main technical flaw is that DLM can so easily be confused by drops from loss of power, too much modem recycling, etc, and then takes so long to recover.

Thanks.. can u please help me out in one more question. how can i transfer files like pdf, .docx and ppt from my laptop to iPhone 5 ? please its urgent.

thanks.. can u please help me out in one more question. how can i transfer files like pdf, .docx and ppt from my laptop to iPhone 5 ? please its urgent.

See your other post
First, i want to know how can i pair my iPhone 5 with my lenovo laptop?

Aperture Exporting JPEG's from RAW: file size and quality questions?

Hey Everyone,
So, I'm using Aperture 2 and I've got some questions about exporting from RAW to JPEG. I shoot with a Nikon D70 so original RAW files are 5-6mb in size. After doing some basic post processing when I export the pics at "full size" with picture quality of 11 out of 12 then the resulting JPEG is about half the file size of the original RAW file. For example a 5.6mb RAW becomes a 2.6mb JPEG. The resolution in pixels per inch and and the overall image size remain unchanged. Have I lost picture quality due to the exporting JPEG being smaller in file size?
My friend who works with me prefers to edit in Photoshop and when he follows the same workflow his saved JPEG from the identical RAW file in Photoshop is minimally smaller in file size, say 5.6mb to 5.3mb. He's telling me that my Aperture edited photos are losing quality and resolution.
Is he right, are my pics of lesser quality due to being a smaller file size? I've always been told that the quality of a picture is not in the mbs, but the pixel density.
I've bee told that Aperture has a better compression engine and that the resulting files are of the exact same quality because the PPI and image size are the same. Is that what explains the much smaller file sizes in Aperture?
I tried changing the picture quality in the export menu to 12 out of 12, but the resulting JPEG then becomes larger than the original RAW at over 7mbs.
Can someone please help me understand this better? I don't want to lose picture quality if that is indeed what is happening.
Thanks in advance for your help.

mscriv wrote:
So, I'm using Aperture 2 and I've got some questions about exporting from RAW to JPEG. I shoot with a Nikon D70 so original RAW files are 5-6mb in size. After doing some basic post processing when I export the pics at "full size" with picture quality of 11 out of 12 then the resulting JPEG is about half the file size of the original RAW file. For example a 5.6mb RAW becomes a 2.6mb JPEG. The resolution in pixels per inch and and the overall image size remain unchanged. Have I lost picture quality due to the exporting JPEG being smaller in file size?
JPEG is a "lossy" file compression algorithm. Whether Aperture or PS, *every time a JPEG is saved some loss occurs*, albeit minimal at the 11 or 12 level of save, huge losses at low save levels. Some images (sky, straight diagonal lines, etc.) are more vulnerable to showing visible jpeg artifacts.
My friend who works with me prefers to edit in Photoshop and when he follows the same workflow his saved JPEG from the identical RAW file in Photoshop is minimally smaller in file size, say 5.6mb to 5.3mb. He's telling me that my Aperture edited photos are losing quality and resolution.
*Both of you are losing image data when you save to jpeg.* IMO the differences between the apps is probably just how the apps work rather than actually losing significantly more data. The real image data loss is in using JPEG at all!
Is he right, are my pics of lesser quality due to being a smaller file size?
I doubt it.
I've always been told that the quality of a picture is not in the mbs, but the pixel density.
The issue here is not how many pixels (because you are not varying that) but how much data each pixel contains. In this case once you avoid lossy JPEG the quality mostly has to do with different RAW conversion algorithms. Apple and Adobe both guess what Nikon is up to with the proprietary RAW NEF files and the results are different from ACR to Apple to Nikon. For my D2x pix I like Nikon's conversions the best (but Nikon software is hard to use), Aperture second and Adobe ACR (what Photoshop/Bridge uses) third. I 98% use Aperture.
I tried changing the picture quality in the export menu to 12 out of 12, but the resulting JPEG then becomes larger than the original RAW at over 7mbs. Can someone please help me understand this better? I don't want to lose picture quality if that is indeed what is happening.
JPEG is a useful format but lossy. Only use it as a _last step_ when you must save files size for some reason and are willing to accept the by-definition loss of image data to obtain smaller files (such as for web work or other on-screen viewing). Otherwise (especially for printing) save as TIFF or PSD which are non-lossy file types, but larger.
As to the Aperture vs. ACR argument, RAW-convert the same original both ways, save as TIFF and see if your eyes/brain significantly prefer one over the other. Nikon, Canon etc. keep proprietary original image capture data algorithms secret and each individual camera's RAW conversion is different.
HTH
-Allen

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

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