Recommendations for a Bluetooth/wireless mouse that is not a MIghty Mouse

I'm tired of having problems with my Bluetooth mighty mouse, and want to know what other people are using for a Bluetooth or wireless mouse. IMO, the trackball on the Mighty Mouse is a major design flaw, that is easily clogged with dirt or dust, and the frequent cleaning is either time consuming, or not very effective. I've tried pretty much everything ever suggested in these forums to fix the Mighty Mouse, and I'm to the point where I'd just rather something else, preferably a traditional two-button design, with a scroll wheel.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

I give the Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000 five stars. Yeah, I know, how can MM from Apple be so bad, and anything from MS be great. The 8000 is a full 5-button mouse, 4-way scrolling, programmable, rechargeable, bluetooth mouse. Pairs easily with the bluetooth on my iBook or iMac. You can find it for around $60, but get this. You don't need the BT dongle, so sell it on eBay and recover your $60.
Microsoft doesn't officially support the 8000 on Mac, but Mac drivers come on the CD. You install the CD drivers, then download Intellipoint 6.1 and install only the mouse for full functionality.

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Recommendations for a Bluetooth iSynch-capable cell phone Not Motorola

Hi all,
I am in the market for a new phone that willl enable me to interact with iCal and Address Book. I have always hated the Motorola menu systems, currently have a Sony Ericcson Z500, and had great success a long time ago with Nokias in the Wintel environment. I really want something that allows me to use whichever device (phone, MBP) is appropriate in the moment, without risk of screwing up the synching, etc. I'm betting there's tons of experience on this list, and I'm confident that you people will send me loads of advice and tips, all gratefully recieved!
Best regards, and thanks in advance!
2GHz MacBook Pro, 2Gb RAM, 100GbHD & 800Mhz G4 iMac 512Mb Mac OS X (10.4.8) WinXP SP2

upto a few weeks ago i would have also recomended a new sony phone however if you do a search here for M600i one of the new phones you will find that it does not work with Isync and there is confusion as to if it ever will, before considering a new sony please check if you can sync it first otherwise it could be a very expensive mistake,
i have heared good things about teh nokia phones but i have never used one - but agree anything but Motorola,
hope this helps

My IPhone is asking me to type in my password for my old Apple ID that does not exist anymore. I cant set up ICloud without typing in a password to a Apple ID that does not exist, so do I have to remove everything from my IPhone and start over?

my IPhone is asking me to type in my password for my old Apple ID that does not exist anymore. I cant set up ICloud without typing in a password to a Apple ID that does not exist, so do I have to remove everything from my IPhone and start over?

Hello miamat2017
You should see an option to skip that step and then sign out of it when looking in Settings. Check out the article below for more information.
iOS 7: If you're asked for the password to your previous Apple ID when signing out of iCloud
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts5223
Regards,
-Norm G.

Is there a patch for the NTP security issue that does not require Xcode?

Is there a patch for the NTP security issue that does not require Xcode? I have an older Intel mini that can't be upgraded beyond 10.6.8 and I currently don't have room for Xcode 3.2.5. Has somebody trustworthy posted these binaries?

NTP fix for Snow Leopard: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxQCbeIgpA2uVjFiN1h4bGZNQ2c&usp=sharing
You can also go to System Preferences/Date & Time and deselect Set time Automatically.
Snow Leopard users: Turn off automatic date and time in System Preferences immediately

Recommendations for a bluetooth mouse?

Hello,
I've been looking for a Bluetooth mouse for a few weeks now to go along with my Macbook and after coming on here and reading some of the troubles that come along with them, I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations? I've never used an Apple mouse before, never really understood how the one click deal without the "right-click" worked, so i've been looking at other brands mostly. Would you even recommend the Bluetooth mice as opposed to a wireless one with a USB connector? Thanks!

I have the original wireless mouse (one "button") and a Logitech MX 1000 which is not Bluetooth but uses it's own wireless connection to a USB base station. The separate base station probably leaves this out of what you would be interested in for a laptop. However, my comments:
Both Mice work reliably and are accurate pointing devices. The original mouse uses the red laser. The Logitech mouse uses an infrared laser so its working is not obvious from the light of the mouse, although there is a combination activity/battery level LED that let's you know its working.
The Apple mouse is small, about the size of a bar of soap. The Logitech is a large lumpy affair that is molded to the shape of your right hand and fills it up. Some hate the small size of the Apple mouse. Some hate the large size of the Logitech mouse.
The apple mouse has one "button" (no discernable button, but you push on it and it clicks). The Logitech mouse has two buttons on top, a rocker button (3 switches) under the thumb, a scroll wheel, and a 4 way button run around the scroll where for a whopping 9 buttons plus wheel up/down/button of control.
The Apple mouse runs 2 to 3 months before needing to swap its 2 AA batteries. The Logitech mouse recharges itself in its cradle, which it needs about every 2 or 3 weeks depending on use.
My opinion is that mouse choices are very personal things. Some would pick solely on size/confort. Both are reliable. For gaming one-button mouse doesn't cut it, or leaves you at a severe disadvantage depending on the game. The infrared mice are more accurate based on product specs. The Apple mouse is an elegant lump of plastic sitting on your desk. The Logitech mouse is a big lump of Borg technology looking like a kid's toy sitting on your desk.
Hope that helps.
iMac G5 20 inch, PowerBook G4 15 inch Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Event ID 1 for Intel Bluetooth Wireless High Speed after Windows Update

After the automatic update for Windows I received the following error message in the Event viewer, telling me that Intel Bluethooth Wireless High Speed has to be reinstalled after the update.
How do I reinstall Intel Bluethooth Wireless High Speed on my notebook?
Source: ApplicationExperienceInfrastructure
"Bei der Anwendung (Intel Bluethooth Wireless High Speed, von Lieferant Intel) sind folgende Probleme aufgetreten: Um eine einwandfreie Funktion zu gewhrleisten, muss Intel Bluethooth Wireless High Speed nach der Aktualisierung von Windows neu installiert werden."
+ System
- EventData
DBType 15
AppNameCount 36
AppName Intel Bluetooth Wireless High Speed
VendorNameCount 6
VendorName Intel
SummaryCount 149
Summary Um eine einwandfreie Funktion zu gewhrleisten, muss Intel Bluetooth Wireless High Speed nach der Aktualisierung von Windows neu installiert werden.
SessionID 0

Yeah, I tried it exactly as described.
I use the Satellite U940-11X (PSU6SE) which has as network adapters the Realtek PCIe FE Family Controler and the Intel Centrino Wireless Adapter N 2230. The OS platform is Windows 8, 64bit.
I first uninstalled the existing Intel Bluetooth driver, then the Intel ProSet Wireless software.
I downloaded the newest software from Intel's website which is:
- BT_2.6.1212_e64.exe, version 2.6.1212, 19-3-2013, for the Intel bluetooth software and
- Wireless_15.6.1_e64.exe, version 15.6.1, 19-3-2013, for the Intel PROSet/Wireless Software and Drivers
I have installed both software packages correctly and did not receive any error messages.
The installation seems to be faultless.
However, the bluetooth switch in PC settings (wireless tab) remains gray.
I cannot switch it from off to on.
In the device manager the bluetooth button is listed under hidden devices.
Where is the mistake?
Is it possible that my notebook requires specially modified drivers from the Toshiba website and/or additional drivers like to "bluetooth filter driver package" provided by Toshiba for my notebook model?
As to the bluetooth filter driver package it reads on the website that this driver is needed to enable bluetooth on your Atheros wlan-combo-card.
I am confused now because the notebook Satellite U940 11X (PSU6SE) doesn't have the Atheros card.
Any advice for me?
Thanks in advance
Rafu
Message was edited by: Rafu

I can't purchase anything even though I redeemed an iTunes card for $15. Apple is asking to verify my credit card info, and also for answers to security codes that are not mine.

Okay so I just got an iPhone 5. My first iPhone. In the past I've had two different iPods, an iPod Touch 3rd Generation, and an iPad 2.
I only have 87 cents in my bank account so I paid cash for a $15 iTunes card so I could get some applications on my new iPhone 5. I realize that iTunes won't let me download updates or buy new applications when my bank account has a low or insufficient balance, so it will ask to verify the code on the back of the card. After entering the code, it says to please enter valid information. The information is valid, but won't be accepted because it has a low balance.
I tried selecting "None" as my payment options to see if that would allow me to make purchases using the $15 balance I just redeemed from the iTunes card. It doesn't seem to help the situation.
I went to contact Apple, but I had to schedule a call (this is the first time I've ever had to contact support for a problem - ever). I also sent in an email hoping I would get a response sooner. I want to play with my phone now, not in a few days when they can finally call me back...
While trying to figure out a solution to this, I ran into a couple of security questions that aren't even mine... They can't be because I don't have an answer for them. These security codes are not mine. I tried putting in an answer and it didn't work - obviously, because the questions don't apply to me. What the heck is going on Apple? I've never had so much trouble with your services before.
I'm not very happy right now.

Look, I understand I still need a card attached to the account. The problem is, it won't accept my card because I only have 87 cents in my bank account right now.
If I had known there would be so much trouble with the iTunes card, I would have just put the cash in my bank account in the morning instead of buying an iTunes card (I didn't expect the banks to be open on Thanksgiving of course).
Apple will only accept cards that have a balance. The balance is so small in my account that it won't accept it as a valid card.
I'm going to have to contact Apple anyway to reset the security questions. That's obvious. Your answers were not exactly helpful. You didn't tell me anything I don't already know, but thanks for trying to be helpful.

There is a 3 inch section of the window that will not recognize the mouse. It will not let you click on the icons or screen in any way in this section under the address bar. It is only in firefox where this is a problem

There is a 3 inch section of the window that will not respond or recognize the mouse. It will not let you click on the icons or screen in any way. This is the only program we are experiencing this problem with.

Start Firefox in <u>[[Safe Mode]]</u> to check if one of the extensions or if hardware acceleration is causing the problem (switch to the DEFAULT theme: Firefox (Tools) > Add-ons > Appearance/Themes).
*Don't make any changes on the Safe mode start window.
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Safe+Mode
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Troubleshooting+extensions+and+themes

I was billed for a renewal with eHarmony that does not work. Eharmony said itunes claims the charge didnt go through but I have already been billed. How do I get my money back or get my subscription working??

I was billed for a renewal with eHarmony via iTunes that does not work. Eharmony said itunes claims the charge didnt go through but I have already been billed it is on my bank statement. How do I get my money back or get my subscription working?? I have all transaction ID's and invoice numbers. Please help this has been very frustrating, thanks.

Yes, I reported the problem using that exact sequence immediately after discovering the problem with the app. When I submitted my complaint and request, Apple redirected me the website of the app manufacturer where I submitted the same complaint/request for refund. I have not heard back from either, and was still charged, so I can only assume that is not the correct way to "Report a Problem" even though Apple would have you believe otherwise.

HT4009 How do I get a refund for a recently purchased app that does not meet expectation?

I purchased an application this weekend and it doesn't do what I was expecting it to do. How do I return and be reimbursed for that application?

As RG said, you probably cannot get a refund, since the terms of sale for the iTunes Store state that all sales are final. If, however, features and functions were promised in the app and either are not present or do not work and the developer cannot resolve the issue or you are unable to reach the developer, you can contact the iTunes Store, explain the reason for your request, and ask:
http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact.html
It's possible they'll make an exception for you.
Good luck.

Best Practice for stopping unsolicited e-mails that are not detected as SPAM or Marketing?

I have roughly 40,000 mailboxes behind some IronPort appliances. My question for all of you veteran SMTP admins is how do you handle situations where you have an individual sending multiple e-mails to one of your mailboxes? It's not really a big enough of an issue to setup a content filter for the sending e-mail address, we don't have Blocklists roled out to everyone yet, so that's not a good fit, although I really like the IronPort quarantine with it's SafeList and Blocklist features.
What I'm looking for is do you even take the time to try to work with the sender and get them to stop sending the e-mails?
Do you bounce the e-mails back to the sender?
Setup a client side (Outlook) rule to just automatically delete the e-mails?
Just looking for some "best practice" or good advice on how to handle these minor issues. The major ones are easy but it's these little ones that turn into administrative issues.
Thanks all, look forward to your input...
Jason Meyer

If the sender is mailbombing you (sending a large number of mails just to flood your mailbox) then that's clear network abuse; you ignore him and complain to his system administrator or to his upstream provider. As that's likely to take some time if it works at all, you also want a block in place as soon as you've recorded enough evidence to document the abuse.
There used to be a vulnerability in MS Small Business Server whereby some chump would send out a mail to over 500(?) recipients including at least two SBS boxes with the bug. Each box would then send a further copy of the mail, thereby creating a loop. Swift coding was necessary to protect one's own recipients from the deluge. (And that's a sales argument in favour of appliances versus outsourcing to the Cloud, by the way.) Strictly speaking, the abuse was the fault of the SBS systems administrators rather than the original chump, so careful header parsing can sometimes be necessary.
A more likely scenario is that you have someone who just keeps on sending the odd spam, week after week. Let's take the worst case; that it's addressed just to you, the sender's domain is reasonably fragrant (or at least impractical to block) and there's no headers or body phrases that you can add to a filter to create a general solution. You have to block the specific sender.
At the moment I'm doing this with a simple dictionary-driven rule. If I get a complaint from any of my mailbox owners and am satisfied that nothing else will workthen I simply add the sender's address to the dictionary. The rule is already in place and only requires a dictionary update. One hallmark of this type of case is that I have no qualms about simply dropping the mail, rather than sending some sort of NDR.
Sender-blacklist: if (mail-from-dictionary-match("blocked-senders", 1)) { drop(); }
Now at the scale you are discussing, this solution may not work. Is there time to properly examine each case, or will your colleagues simply start slamming addresses into such a dictionary? How quickly will the list grow to the point where it starts to consume an unreasonable slice of your CPU time? Indeed, I'm not sure how far such a solution will scale even if processing capacity is not an issue.
I need a review process to remove addresses from my dictionary, but then the same principle applies to any filter that uses specific static data. I try to keep records of every case where I include such data, and if I cannot find justification for a specific listing then I remove it at once.

Why won't some of my songs, that used to sync, sync to my iPhone 5 now? There is an empty circle appearing to the left of the check marks for each of the songs that were not successfully synced.

Why won't some of my songs, that used to sync, sync to my iPhone5 now? There is an empty circle appearing to the left of the check mark in iTunes for the songs that are not properly syncing.

I've continued tests on different films, and tried my entire collection. I've found about two dozen that will play fine on the PC, but will not cooperate when streamed to either Apple TV or my iPad. I tried several more tests with the audio, and that turned out not to be a factor -- I could not replicate that on another test.
I wonder if something in the header of these files is corrupted or a flag is set incorrectly or something along those lines, as the data appears to be fine -- it's just not "handshaking" with my streaming hardware and/or the Apple Home Sharing code that powers it.
Is there any way for me to "scrub" these files and amend their headers, or get into the file and tinker with that info by hand?

Will there be a solution for the dock stereo systems that do not charge?

I have the JBL Radial and it will not charge the 3G...Before I buy a new one is there a solution to this???

Good question for JBL.
If a product does not include the "made for iPhone" designation, no.
Some products that don't include this may work with the first generation iPhone but not with the iPhone 3G.

Best way to look for next char in String that is NOT "-" or " " or ","?

I have a long String that is sent to me and needs to be parsed. Normally I can figure the end of the line by a line break, but sometimes the line break is lost only after the second line. This second line contains the characters:
These characters can all appear any number of times. I will know I'm at the end of the line when I hit a character that is not one of those three. What is the best way to look for this? Is there an already set method in the Java API?
Thanks for all the help!

There are solutions using regular expression, eg; you can split string once a time using minus char, whitespace or comma:
String tokens[] = anyString.split("\\-|\\x20|,");
More sophisticated expressions could be done to achieve results:
String re = "^(.+)(\\-|\\x20|,)(.)(.*)$";
Matcher m = Pattern.compile(re).matcher(anyString);
if (m.matches()) {
String
before = m.group(1),
delimiter = m.group(2),
firstCharAfterDelimiter = m.group(3),
suffix = m.group(4);
Regards.

I have an Apple wireless keyboard that will not turn on, even with new batteries. The contacts seem fine. What could be the problem?

My wireless keyboard will not turn on despite new batteries. It is about 8 years old. The contacts seem to be good. What could be the problem?

Hi elljohnson,
It is important when replacing discharged batteries in the Apple Wireless Keyboard to make sure the new batteries are oriented correctly. See this article for directions -
Apple Wireless Keyboard (2007): How to install or replace batteries - Apple Support
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Brett L

Recommendations for a Bluetooth/wireless mouse that is not a MIghty Mouse

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