Recommendations for a small portable bluetooth mouse?

Does anyone have recommendations for a small portable bluetooth mouse? There don't seem to be a lot out there.

I use the Microsoft Bluetooth Notebook Mouse 5000 - works well:
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Bluetooth-Notebook-Mouse-5000/dp/B000TG4BA0

Similar Messages

Recommendations for over the ear bluetooth headphone

Hello. Does anyone have recommendations for over the ear bluetooth headphones to be used for my Mac Pro? Thanks!

I recently got a set of Insignia NS-BTHDP I am quite happy with. They synced up no problem with the internal bluetooth and work nicely. I had an older set (Jensen WBT212) that didn't work as well but were functional that these replaced.

Need a printer recommendation for a small office

hey folks, hoping someone might be able to suggest a recommendation for our business. We’ve had an OkiData color laser printer that’s lasted over 6 years but it’s been giving us some trouble over the last year and yesterday it stopped printing with an error we can’t resolve. Would have to bring a tech in to fix and we’d basically already decided that once this thing bit the dust we’d move on to something else. It’s time.
We are looking for something in the $200-$400 range, would consider going a little higher if it was clearly worth it. We want something that connects wireless, prints quickly and reliably in Snow Leopard over an Airport Extreme network, decent color print quality is important but doesn’t have to be photo quality (we have an HP Photosmart for that kind of stuff), and it needs to have reasonable printing cost per page. We don’t print a tremendous amount of stuff, but we probably go through 100-200 pages a day and it adds up.
Was looking at the HP OfficeJet Pro 8500 wireless and that looks like a nice unit except half the people who buy one hate it. Looks like HP quality control is lacking and if you get a good unit, great, but the odds are good you’ll get a lousy one.
Also looking at the Brother HL-3070CW, but reviews say it has a high consumable cost.
Basically, the more I look into this the more I head spins and now I've got myself wrapped around the axle and don’t know what to do.
Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

I would steer clear of the 500 express. Since you seem to be new to cisco products, I would use the opportunity and buy what most of your potential customers already have. Get yourself a pix/asa and a 2900 series switch as first poster suggested. If you are interested in certifications, you will need to learn the command line interface. The 500 express will do you no good as it is all gui. This is only my opinion of course. Oh, and did I see not expensive and cisco in the same sentence. :)

Your best recommend for a wireless headset/bluetooth for Skype

Anyone found something that delivers?
Thanks

The Motorola HT820 works great. It is one of my all-time best purchases. http://direct.motorola.com/ens/BTStereoHSWebProductHome.asp?country=USA&language=ENS
It works with my MB Pro, in Skype. It works with my iPod, using the iMuffs Bluetooth transceiver, from Wi-Gear. Naturally, it works with my Motorola phone. It also comes with a cable for use as a wired headset, so it works on the airplane, in place of the cheesy headphones that the airlines provide. That cable also allows you to use the headset as a wired headset for the Mac, while on the airplane. However, the cable option is only for headphones, so the mic does not work with the wired connection.
You start by setting up a new Bluetooth headset, from your Bluetooth preferences panel and add it to your favorites. You only have to do this once. Note: You do NOT have to select the HT820 as your system sound device. You only need to do that in Skype.
To use it in Skype, you make sure that the headset is off. Then, hold the power button (left side) down for about 8 seconds (till the blue light starts pulsing) to put it into "find-me" mode. Then, in the Skype preferences panel, select the HT820 for both the input and output. In a moment, you will be prompted for the security code. Type "0000" and hit "Return". You will hear a tone in the headset and the blue light stops pulsing. You are connected.
To save battery on the headset, it is a good idea to go back and select the default input and output, when you are through using the headset.
When you want to go back to using the HT820 on your cell phone, you will probably have to tell your cell phone to re-connect to the HT820. For me, this step requires only that the HT820 is turned on.
Motorola now makes a much smaller version of this headset, as well. I have seen it, but I have not tried it out. The model is MOTOROKR S9. I have seen it at the Cingular/AT&T store and at Radio Shack. As I understand, the only difference is that it uses "bud" style speakers on the headset, instead of over-the-ear speakers and the Bluetooth electronics and battery are integrated in the headband, behind the neck, instead of in the speaker housings.
I highly recommend the Motorola HT820. If you have an iPod with a dock connector, then I also recommend the iMuffs Bluetooth transceiver (MA110 - http://www.wi-gear.com/products/imuffs/ma110.php), to pair with the HT820, so you can go totally wireless. It is much smaller than the transceiver from Ten Technology. However, the Wi-Gear headset had problems and I had to return them.
Good luck.
17" MacBook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.10)

Recording Interface Recommendations for 10.7.5?

I recently upgraded to 10.7.5 (IMax). My M-Audio recording interface does not have an upated driver (which was causing output sound issues), so I'm on the hunt for a new interface. Any recommendations for a small, desktop unit for $200 or less? I don't need a big complex rack unit, but would like quality recordings of guitar and voice. I use garage band and logic pro 9.
Thanks much!

Deleting Safari and reinstalling it will probably not solve your problem. If you have not deleted Safari yet, please do not do that!
First, just try holding down the shift key while opening Safari. This will prevent it from trying to open any pages that were open when it last quit. Your problem could be nothing more than Safari re-opening a page that was open from a previous browsing session.
If that doesn't work, see:
Eliminating browser redirects and advertisements
Go through all the tests there, and if they indicate that you may have adware installed, proceed to the adware guide it refers you to.
If you have already deleted Safari, just hold down command-R at startup to enter recovery mode, then reinstall the system. Installing right on top of your existing system will replace any items that may have been deleted or damaged, and will leave all your other apps and documents alone.

Hardware recommendations for render farm?

Hello,
what would you recommend for a small render farm for mixed AE projects (mostly HD content, short projects with only a few seconds and layers and bigger ones with multiple HD layers and up to 15min or longer.)
is it better to have more cores (AMD opteron servers with 48 cores for example) or better more performance per core but less cores (Intel Xeon servers)?
And how much memory would be optimal?
What can you recommend for network connection to the shared storaged, how fast shall this be?

I like Harm's analogy better then mine. One prize cow vs. 20 regular cows. The imagery is very clear. In a production environment, where volume counts, more is better then a single top notch one. A single cow can only produce so much mik per day, no matter how extraordinary it is. But 20 can theoretically produce 20 times more (practically, maybe 17 to 18). Quantity, not quality. I'm not saying that you should get crappy hardware. Just good hardware, not high performance ones.
As you know, it's not because you buy a computer that costs twice as much, that you'll get twice the processing power. First of all, forget dual CPU computers for a render farm, it's not worth it. Get a regular quad core. As you compare prices vs. performance (do a chart), get the CPU that gives you the best bang for the buch (just before the price curve goes up).
I personally think 32GB is overkill in a render farm environment. 16GB is way more then enough. Remember that you're not doing a RAM preview farm (if such a thing exists), but rather, fractioning the render process to various computers. While 16GB is good, 2GB isn't. But 8GB can be an nice compromise. Remember, you're trying to drive the cost down of a computer, so you can buy many computers. But RAM is cheap, so, best bang for the buck, 16GB can be possible. Then again, it depends on other overall factors to keep the price for the computer down.
Network speed. Yes you could get 10GB NICs and a 10GB switch. But that can drive the price up substantially. If you can get a good price on them, great. If not, stick to 1GB. Get a motherboard that has 2x 1GB NICs on board, so you can aggregate the network connections together to get 2GB. You could eventually add a quad 1GB PCIe card down the road. The computer that has the project assets should have an aggregated quad (or more) NIC inside. You want to be able to push the media as fast as possible to the render farm.
Other things to consider... or rather, not consider. Graphic card is a non issue on a server farm. AE is all about CPU. Some mobos come with on-board graphics. Usually, it's cheaper, and consumes less power. You also want to drive the energy costs down when you multiply by X number of computers. Just get a KVM solution that will be able handle X computers. You don't need a RAID on render farm computers. A regular hard drive will do. I'd even go with a green drive that consumes less power.
And depending on how many computers you have, to reduce the footprint, you might want to get low profile rackmount casings and put them in a rack. Plus think of putting it in it's own room, because it'll be very noisy!

Recommendations for a bluetooth mouse?

Hello,
I've been looking for a Bluetooth mouse for a few weeks now to go along with my Macbook and after coming on here and reading some of the troubles that come along with them, I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations? I've never used an Apple mouse before, never really understood how the one click deal without the "right-click" worked, so i've been looking at other brands mostly. Would you even recommend the Bluetooth mice as opposed to a wireless one with a USB connector? Thanks!

I have the original wireless mouse (one "button") and a Logitech MX 1000 which is not Bluetooth but uses it's own wireless connection to a USB base station. The separate base station probably leaves this out of what you would be interested in for a laptop. However, my comments:
Both Mice work reliably and are accurate pointing devices. The original mouse uses the red laser. The Logitech mouse uses an infrared laser so its working is not obvious from the light of the mouse, although there is a combination activity/battery level LED that let's you know its working.
The Apple mouse is small, about the size of a bar of soap. The Logitech is a large lumpy affair that is molded to the shape of your right hand and fills it up. Some hate the small size of the Apple mouse. Some hate the large size of the Logitech mouse.
The apple mouse has one "button" (no discernable button, but you push on it and it clicks). The Logitech mouse has two buttons on top, a rocker button (3 switches) under the thumb, a scroll wheel, and a 4 way button run around the scroll where for a whopping 9 buttons plus wheel up/down/button of control.
The Apple mouse runs 2 to 3 months before needing to swap its 2 AA batteries. The Logitech mouse recharges itself in its cradle, which it needs about every 2 or 3 weeks depending on use.
My opinion is that mouse choices are very personal things. Some would pick solely on size/confort. Both are reliable. For gaming one-button mouse doesn't cut it, or leaves you at a severe disadvantage depending on the game. The infrared mice are more accurate based on product specs. The Apple mouse is an elegant lump of plastic sitting on your desk. The Logitech mouse is a big lump of Borg technology looking like a kid's toy sitting on your desk.
Hope that helps.
iMac G5 20 inch, PowerBook G4 15 inch Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Recommendations for a Bluetooth/wireless mouse that is not a MIghty Mouse

I'm tired of having problems with my Bluetooth mighty mouse, and want to know what other people are using for a Bluetooth or wireless mouse. IMO, the trackball on the Mighty Mouse is a major design flaw, that is easily clogged with dirt or dust, and the frequent cleaning is either time consuming, or not very effective. I've tried pretty much everything ever suggested in these forums to fix the Mighty Mouse, and I'm to the point where I'd just rather something else, preferably a traditional two-button design, with a scroll wheel.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

I give the Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000 five stars. Yeah, I know, how can MM from Apple be so bad, and anything from MS be great. The 8000 is a full 5-button mouse, 4-way scrolling, programmable, rechargeable, bluetooth mouse. Pairs easily with the bluetooth on my iBook or iMac. You can find it for around $60, but get this. You don't need the BT dongle, so sell it on eBay and recover your $60.
Microsoft doesn't officially support the 8000 on Mac, but Mac drivers come on the CD. You install the CD drivers, then download Intellipoint 6.1 and install only the mouse for full functionality.

Good bluetooth mouse for MacBook

I just got a MacBook Pro and I'm looking for a good bluetooth mouse. I use a Logitech Wireless Anywhere Mouse MX on my other computers and really like it, but it uses up one of the USB ports, which isn't the end of the world. But if there's a good blueetooth mouse out there I'd like to give it a try. I read some reviews on the Logitech V470 and it seems decent. It appears to go into power saving mode very quickly, which I think would be annoying. Any recommendations?

Perhaps I am missing something, but I can certainly recommend the Apple Magic Mouse. It works very neatly for me, and because it uses the same "stroking" gestures as on my trackpad, it's an easy transition between the two.
Looking at the Logitech mice to which you referred, the only advantage they may have is size - thought the MM is smaller than you think and very portable.

What are the best portable Bluetooth keyboards for 3rd G and 4G iPod Touch?

I have both a 32 Gb 3G iPod Touch and a new 8 Gb 4G iPod Touch which I am trying to determine the best choices of a portable (folding or otherwise) Bluetooth keyboard to facilitate faster typing than using that on the iPod. I have reviewed similar excellent threads for recommendations for folding boards for the iPad, but these threads are two years old with last entries in 2010, so I am opening this thread in hopes that additonal product recommendations might be available.
My purpose is to select a good quality one that functions well for a touch typist (moderately skilled). I am thinking that the Apple one is a bit bulky to carry around, but also I realize the folding models also have limitations for touch typists. One I have been considering recently is the Verbatum Wireless Bluetooth Mobile Folding Keyboard for various later model Apple products for iPhone, IPod, and IPad that is currently selling around $50.
I would appreciate any experience and recommendations that people that have use this product or others that they would reccomend.

bumping up (I hope doing so is allowed.)

Recommendations for a Bluetooth trackball

I much prefer a trackball (scroll wheel, multiple buttons) to a mouse , but would like to get one that doesn't use up a USB port. Most of the wireless ones use a transmitter that goes in a USB port, so are no better than one that is hard wired. The Kensington Slimblade looked good, but several people complained about dirt getting in, with no way of cleaning it.
So, do any of you have positive recommendations?
Thanks

I give the Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000 five stars. Yeah, I know, how can MM from Apple be so bad, and anything from MS be great. The 8000 is a full 5-button mouse, 4-way scrolling, programmable, rechargeable, bluetooth mouse. Pairs easily with the bluetooth on my iBook or iMac. You can find it for around $60, but get this. You don't need the BT dongle, so sell it on eBay and recover your $60.
Microsoft doesn't officially support the 8000 on Mac, but Mac drivers come on the CD. You install the CD drivers, then download Intellipoint 6.1 and install only the mouse for full functionality.

Can anyone recommend a Bluetooth Mouse & keyboard?

Hi Guys,
I've finally installed Bluetoothand AirPort into my Mac Mini & was wondering if anyone could recommend a mouse & keyboard they're happy with? I'm put off by the hefty price tag on the Apple products!
Many thanks for any help you can give.
Paul

"One thing is for sure! Do not buy the Apple bluetooth keyboard!"
I couldn't disagree more. I have two Apple BT keyboards which I use with my 17 inch PowerBook, G4 Mac Mini and CoreDuo Mini. The keyboards work perfectly every time.
I even spilled beer into my first BT keyboard back in November, 2003. After submerging the whole unit in the bathtub, flushing it out with distilled water and allowing it to dry thoroughly for two days, the keyboard fired up immediately and it's been working perfectly ever since. How's that for a testimonial!
Bluetooth mice are another matter. I've had too many disconnections and failed pairings with my Apple BT mouse and my MS Intellimouse BT. Of the two, the Apple mouse works better but not by much. Reading through these forums it seems no third party Bluetooth mouse works more reliably than Apple's. Sporadic disconnections seems the Devil's bargain for BT mice on the Mac.
PowerBook 17 1.33 Mac OS X (10.4.6)
PowerBook 17 1.33

Horizon2 Bluetooth mouse randomly locks up for minutes at a time.

The only solution is to re-pair the mouse (any bluetooth mouse, ive tried 3 and they all lock up) or reboot the computer, which is really bothersom when it locks up in the middle of something important and the only way to get out is use the touchscreen...
i have read the other issues from 2-4 years ago on other machines.
Those solutions did not work for me.
Please advise.

I have used 4 different bluetooth mice in trying to get around this, and i am 99.99% certain that the bluetooth hardware is junk.
The cursor stops moving completely. The buttons stop working completely.
Randomly, and for no reason, whatever paired mouse i have will abruptly, and without warning, disconnect itself from the Lenovo Horizon 2 - 27" that i just purchased, yet the bluetooth software still says it is connected.
The ONLY recourse i have, is to use the touch-screen to exit out of whatever i am doing, open up the bluetooth hardware interface from PC settings and un-pair/re-pair whatever mouse i am using.
I only have a single mouse paired at any single time, i have used several sets of brand-new batteries from different manufactures and containers.
Immediately before the mouse unpairs after the process is initiated, approximately 65% of the time, the cursor will bounce around the screen as if it were "catching up" and dumping whatever movements were "stored" by the computer before unpairing completely.
I have tested this several times by moving my mouse diagonally in a single random direction repeatedly immediately after the cursor stops moving. The apaprent "catching up" actually IS "catching up" as the random movements mimic whatever motions i made with the mouse immediately after it stops functioning, untill i forcefully un-pair it from the machine.
I need help with this, because having to un-pair/re-pair my mouse every hour or two or three is getting to be extremely frustrating.

Brand new IMac 27 bluetooth mouse and keyboard not connecting for eight minutes after start up.

I have a new imac 27 that has worked flawlessly for three weeks.
All of a sudden, when starting up the mac boots fine but the bluetooth mouse and keyboard are non responsive. This state is maintained for between 7 and 8 minutes then both mouse and keyboard start working and continue doing so for the rest of the day....until the next restart and the whole saga repeats itself.
Both sets of batteries are fully charged.
I have scoured different sites and tried any suggestion that made any sense, to no avail. All I am able to do at the moment is to do the time, wait the 7 to 8 mins. and then all's good.
My first Mac and this is very annoying especially as Apple must be aware of this issue but no solution is forthcoming!
Any suggestions/workarounds would be great.
Thanks

if you are using rechargeable batteries sometimes they don't stay charged for as long as they should try using alkalaine batteries and see if the issue still persists.
also try doing an SMC reset, the following article tells how to do this:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964

Recommendations for Bluetooth GPS for N95

Has anyone got any recommendations for a Bluetooth GPS receiver (to improve the dire performance of the inbuilt one) available in UK?

I bought the Nokia N95 8GB for its 'all in one device 'convenience.
I bought an external Bluetooth GPS, not because the inernal was no good, or not accurate enough but because I did not want to destroy it with vibration and rain, strapped to the handlebars of my Yamaha XT225
I want to create tracks (kml?)that map out the roads, lanes and footpaths of Cebu, Philippines using my Motorbike, in places the car could not go.
I decided on the Wintec G-Rays2 (WBT-201). This is more than just a Bluetooth GPS, as it has a 'logger' function also (collecting up to 131,072 waypoints). It is also much quicker at acquisition than the internal GPS (34 seconds or if data is still in memory 4-33 sec).
Even in a car, the WBT-201 G-Rays2 unit, can be positioned on the dash, whilst from anywhere in the car, the N95 receives the NMEA0183 format data stream giving position, speed, altitude and time, together with estimated error and satellite status.
'Sports Tracker' works very well with this for receiving the data stream 'live'. Once 'captured' it has many 'export' formats of the captured information. Test 'Tracks' of the same 'Route' using the internal GPS and another time the WBT-201, show the external unit to be more accurate. Having said that, the internal GPS is actually pretty good at capturing the same track.
The only real 'negative' of the WBT-201, is the 'TMXTool' software (for configuring the settings, on the go, rather than connected to a PC), is for PPC, and not S60. However the 'TimeMachineX' software is OK for 'Windows' use.
David

Recommendations for a small portable bluetooth mouse?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for