Recommendations for purchasing an analog converter?

Looking for recommendations for purchasing an analog converter to transport Hi8 movies to IMovieHD 5.0.02. I have found Datavideo DAC-100 and Pinnacle Studio MovieBox DV version 9...which purport to work. Suggestions much appreciated.
Power PC G5 Mac OS X (10.4)

Hi WWG3
Just bought and used a Canopus ADVC-300. Fills my need though it seems
to have an internal timecode that fills gaps from dorp-outs. MY GUESSING.
Anyhow the result was to my satisfaction. The box also had many video and
audio enhansing (destroying) functions which in my case gave a very plesant
result.
There are more versions to consider:
Canopus ADVC-55
Canopus ADVC-110
Pyro AV link
DAC-100
Director's Cut Take 2
ForeMac Studio
(Hollywood bridge - if it still is manufactured) - Had one and accidentally
killed it by turning the FW-connector 180 deg wrong. (I think it was rather
unreliably)
Yours Bengt W

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How do I store photos on an external hard drive? Recommendations for purchasing one?

P.S. - I am extremely new to using a Mac and trying to convert from a PC. I purchased and installed a Time Capsule thinking it would act as an external hard drive that I could routinely retrieve photos from but after looking through some of the other support answers I think I might have been wrong about this. I have thousands of photos that I need to store off of my hard drive and yet be able to easily access them for making books, calendars etc.
PPS - Please keep in mind I am new (and struggling) with learning all the functions. I need directions even a child could understand, Thanks

Make sure the drive is formatted Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
1. Quit iPhoto
2. Copy the iPhoto Library from your Pictures Folder to the External Disk.
3. Hold down the option (or alt) key while launching iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library' and navigate to the new location. From that point on this will be the default location of your library.
4. Test the library and when you're sure all is well, trash the one on your internal HD to free up space.
Regards
TD

Recommendations for Analog to Digital conversion

I am seeking the help of all the Pros out there. I am moving my extensive analog music collection (LP/Cassette) to the digital world. Are there any recommendations for creating a CD-quality sound/volume level. I am currently using the standards (click/pop/hiss reduction, compressor and/or hard limiting). I am recording at 44.1/16 Bit and saving files in mp3 PRO-320 kbps for sake of storage. I welcome any assistance in regard to Plug-ins, equalization or other suggestions.
Thank you in advance
Paddy 41
Pentium 4/3.2 GHz, 2.0 MB Ram, Soundblaster X-Fi Elite Pro, Windows XP PRO SP3, Adobe Audition 3.0, Sony PS-LX250H Turntable, Denon DRM-600 Cassette.

>I am recording at 44.1/16 Bit and saving files in mp3 PRO-320 kbps for sake of storage. I welcome any assistance in regard to Plug-ins, equalization or other suggestions.
You shouldn't save files as MP3s until all the processing you want to do has been done - this is a lossy format, and every time you open a file saved like this it gets re-decoded, and then re-encoded when you do a save. And the quality degeneration is progressive. And unfortunately, recording your files as 16-bit is also not going to be quite the thing to do if you are going to do any sort of amplitude processing at all, either, especially if you are recording at a lower-than-optimum amplitude, which is usually the case. 44.1k is fine, though!
So, to get over the potential problems, the thing to do is to digitise your files as 44.1k 32-bit floating point, and until all processing is done, store them as Windows PCM wav files in this format, because that is uncompressed, which is what you need.
If you want to reduce noise on cassette recordings, it's worth using a fairly high FFT setting, even though it takes longer to do the processing. Since most of the noise is not LF, this tends to work better, although there is also a case for doing the NR twice, once with a lower FFT setting and once with a higher one, but not trying to take out too much in one go.
As for click reduction - well, you have to experiment. But letting the software determine all of the levels tends to give you a pretty good starting point. Another trick that's sometimes worth it is to transform your files temporarily to M-S stereo instead of L-R, and treat each channel separately - you generally get different levels of clicks in each, usually more in the S signal, whilst the M cancels out quite a few. And in general, the less clicks you can get away with processing, the better.
Hard limiting? Never used it on a conversion like that at all, and wouldn't even consider it - transients are already likely to be distorted, and hard limiting them further seems like a
very strange thing to do...
Other tools that are useful, especially on cassettes are iZotope's Ozone (some of which is already in Audition) and HarBal. You can restore usually distorted frequency responses with the latter, and get a good average value automatically and easily. And judicious use of Ozone's enhancer can make them seem a lot less like the results came from a cassette...
One of the useful things you can do with Ozone is to selectively widen parts of the spectrum. Since most records of music tend (for reasons of tracking) to have had the bass forced to be virtually mono, with subsequent similar consequences for other instruments with substantial LF content, it's worth expanding just about everything under about 250Hz, possibly by more than you might think.
Generally, 'normal' EQ doesn't have a lot of use when processing vinyl, if it's relatively recent. And that generally means anything from the 60's onwards. If you think things are seriously wrong, the chances are that it's your monitors and environment that are misleading you. Just bear in mind that when this stuff was produced, it was all monitored in a professional environment - more so than it might be today, even.
No doubt there will be a few other responses - I don't think that the foregoing is anything like complete, but is at least a start.

Just updated to CC 2014. Interested in best practice recommendations for converting INDD hi-resolution print layout files to .jpeg for use on a portfolio preview website

Seeking recommendations for best practices for converting hi-res magazine INDD docs to .jpgs for web portfolio

Export to a hi-res PDF, then do your conversion in Photoshop where you have more control.

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
5. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was never a good idea, and Java's developers have had a lot of trouble implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, password-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be practically as safe from malware as you can be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
8. The greatest harm done by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

Recommendations for converting wma to mp3

Importing music into iTunes does not work with wma files. Is the best way to convert them to mp3? If so, any recommendations for an app? Thanks!

It's in the AppStore. That's where I got it.
One caviat. You CAN'T drag & drop files onto it to add them, you MUST use the "add" option, or it'll add the files multiple times. I had to learn that the hard way. Otherwise, it's fast and thorough.

Which product is recommended for converting dvd to ipad2?

which product is recommended for converting dvd to ipad2?

Handbreak is good, free too.
http://handbrake.fr/downloads.php
-J

Using Air Port for music...do I need a digital to analog converter

I want to play my iTunes library on my old stereo using my iPod Touch as a remote control (that works well with my Bose Wave Radio). My old stereo is an analog system. When I plug the output of my Air Port Express into my stereo though RCA cable, do I need to use a Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) or is there a DAC as part of the Air Port Express???
Many thanks,
Twinz

After doing a little more digging, I find that using a Toslink cable out of the AirPort Express and into a quality external DAC, and then using RCAs to connect to my pre-amp will get much better results out of my stereo. Evidently the DAC in the AirtPort is not great quality. So, what I'm going to do is hook up the stereo through the AirPort and listen. If it sounds bad, I'll spring for a decent external DAC. Many thanks!

Vadim {remove per forum guidelines}: Recommendation required for purchasing laptop

Hello everyone,
i am Vadim {remove per forum guidelines}. I am planning for purchasing a new laptop. Can anyone here please recommend me the best brand to purchase the laptop.
Help me with quick responses.
Thanks
Vadim {remove per forum guidelines}

NoNoBadDog wrote:
A not about the chart above: it may be a little misleading, as there are fewer Apple products sold compared to PC's, so they would by default have "fewer problems". Add to that the notariety that Apple has about not reporting issues and problems with it's hardware...you get the picture.
I work on both PCs and MACs. Neither is superior to the other, they both suffer about tha same percentage of hardware and software problems. Now the Apple bots will flame me for saying so, but it is true. Apple is no better than the better PCs when it comes to problems.
Hey, as a quasi-official Apple bot I resemble that remark! Prepare for flames to emanate from my post!
"...there are fewer Apple products sold compared to PC's..." is your go-to explanation for fewer problems with Apples, fewer Apple viruses in the wild, and probably why the weather has been so warm recently. It may also have something to do with the hardware and software being made (and joined seamlessly together) by the same company which can result in fewer driver and other sorts of compatibility glitches. On top of that, maybe some people just prefer Apple products and one of the reasons why is that they <gasp> have fewer problems with them.
Btw, in your haste to post your customary "Apple is no better" diatribe did you happen to notice in my post above that (contrary to what the chart suggests) I stated that Dell and HP are capable of cranking out good machines? That I've heard good things about ASUS? The OP was just looking for recommendations about a laptop here (which you didn't offer), and not a PC vs. Mac debate.
So, start recommending or muzzle it.
This message was transmitted on 100% recycled electrons.

What tool should mac users recommend for convertng ulaw to .mp3 files. I used to use Goldwave on windows to convert ulaw to .mp3 files

Hi,
I recently switched to mac and I am not used to which applications to use
What tool should mac users recommend for convertng ulaw to .mp3 files. I used to use Goldwave on windows to convert ulaw to .mp3 files
Thanks,
SK

Congrats on switching! You won't regret it.
Try Google. There appear to be options to do what you want.

Recommendations for online battery purchase please?

has anybody had any good/bad experiences with buying some random brand powerbook battery online? what about those on ebay? i see some that are about 60 including shipping, but im a little skeptical. i dont see any brand names on them and therefore dont know exactly what im getting. anyways, if you have any recommendations of brands and websites please share. any info is greatly appreciated! thanks

Hello everybody,
About recommendations for Tibook G4 batteries, I bought mine about two yrs ago on amazon...great seller(arrived quickly).
*"But here a list a few good links on where to buy batteries for Powerbook"*
*Amazon Link*: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nbssgw/103-9442646-7268655?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=powerbookG4+titaniumbattery&x=14&y=21
*Powerbook medic Link*:http://www.powerbookmedic.com/Powerbook-G4-Titanium-Batteries-p-1-c-288.html
There you could look around check it out until you see something that fits your budget.
I Hope it would help, to narrow it down( about what best battery to buy).

Set values for the Lock-In Amplifier's Digital Analog Converter Channel?

If I let my user have the freedom to select whatever values they want to select in order for it to show up as the output value for the Digital Analog Channel then I cannot understand why use ibwrt(...) and ibrd(...). Because ibwrt is going to write a specific voltage at the specified channel since the manual for the Amplifier states you must input the string for writing output voltage as DAC2 3000 (the 2 signifying the channel and 3000 - the millivolts). If this hard coding occurs by using ibwrt then how can I write my code so that the user has the capability to change the voltage value and the channel to the one they want? Thanks in advance.

Do I need a Fmt and ibwrt for both DOutput and VOutput? Because DOutput is indicative of the channels 1, 2, 3, 4 in the Lock in Amplifier and the VOutput is for the amount of volts the user can set (i.e. write to the instrument). Also I found this on the following NI website regarding filling in the value of the write buffer: Write Buffer Value. This website signifies that one must use \002 and end with 003\ which I am not sure I even need for this instance of initializing the writeBuffer[8]. Also I used [7] for the writeBuffer because I thought arrays went 0, 1, 2, 3...so on therefore writeBuffer[7] will give me space for 8 bytes? Is that an incorrect assumption? Lastly, here is my modified code according to the changes you mentioned and it still is giving me Non-Fatal Run Time Errors and not communicating. Is there anything else I am missing out on which I can't find. Seemed like I may be making this code much harder than it needs to be. Thank you for your time.
Sincerly,
Attachments:
SETDAC.c ‏2 KB
setdacwin.h ‏2 KB
setdacwin.uir ‏3 KB

Black magic SDI to analog converter box code issue

Hello im using an SDI to analog converter box from black magic and since i was using it to test some other stuff I guess i got the code worng now but don remember what it was. As of right now its only displaying some lines although i can kinda see through and im seeing what the back ground is and it its what im trying to display.
This topic first appeared in the Spiceworks Community

I wanted to let you know that I made a practice dvd today, sampling edited clips from four different sources of imported vhs video--some of it 16mm dubbed to video around 20 years ago--into iMovie. I worked in the update of 6 to see if the application had stabilized at all. I've been working only in 5.0.2 recently.
I was pleasantly shocked at how much better the video quality was than on the computer--as you foretold. I really couldn't tell a visual difference from the source videos. What a relief! But do you work with that disparity, the difference between computer and TV, without a live TV monitor as you go? It's hard to make decisions on the basis of how it looks on the computer.
Other encouraging news: the garble around the edges didn't show at all on the TV screen. In the meantime, I'd been trying the plug-in you recommended. I'm glad I won't need to it for all this video after all, but I'm curious to experiment more with it. Any other plug-ins you'd recommend?
Thanks again for your generous response.
On a roll,
BnB

The iphone could not be synced because this computer is no longer authorized for purchased items 2014

the iphone could not be synced because this computer is no longer authorized for purchased items

Hello 7283,
Thank you for providing the details of the issue you are experiencing with syncing your iPhone. It sounds like you computer is not authorized for some of the purchases on your iPhone.
I am not sure if you have authorized your computer, but I recommend trying that first. If you have purchases from multiple Apple IDs on your iPhone, you will need to authorize all the Apple IDs used to make purchases. Use these steps:
Open iTunes on the computer you want to authorize.
Choose Store > Authorize This Computer from the menu bar.
You may need to show the menu bar to see this option in Windows. In earlier versions of iTunes, you can access this option from the Advanced menu.
Enter your Apple ID and click Authorize.
Authorize or deauthorize your Mac or PC
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1420
If you have already authorized your computer, I recommend reviewing the following article for additional assistance:
iTunes repeatedly prompts to authorize computer to play iTunes Store purchases
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1389
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Sheila M.

I had to restore my computer now it says ringtones could not be synced because PC is no longer authorized for purchases on iphone and have authorizied it. by Daniel V.

I have tried deleting ringtone app and reinstalling it but got the same results. When I try to sync my ringtones I get this Message (The Iphone could not be synced because this computer is no longer authorized for purchased items that are on this Iphone.

Hello dveazie,
Welcome to the Apple Support Communities!
I understand that you are trying to sync your Tones with iTunes but are receiving a messages that says purchases are no longer authorized. In this situation, I would recommend reading over and working through the attached article to make sure all accounts and settings are correct.
iTunes repeatedly prompts to authorize computer to play iTunes Store purchases - Apple Support
Have a great day,
Joe

Recommendations for purchasing an analog converter?

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