Recording on new macbook pro

Hello all, Ive searched multiple sites, and have tried all the ways of figuring this out, but its led me here, with hopes you will be able to help. My wife bought me a macbook pro for my DJ gigs I do every week, and I have always wanted to record my mixes for people who are not able to hear them. I use a Numark mixdeck, and have an RCA to 1/8th cord that i was able to use on my old toshiba laptop to record (only in mono). I tried the same thing with the macbook, but found there was no external mic port to use, so i tried the headphone port, only to find it wont recognize its an input not output. I looked on sites to find a fix where I would be able to change the option of output/input in the sound preferences, however, that does not exsist on my model. So now is my dilemma. Does apple make some kind of cord (thunderbolt perhaps?) that will help see the external input? I was hoping not to buy an external soundcard that would use a USB port to record. Hope you guys can help!

here is the output screen from computer
this is output from virtual dj
maybe the problem is that im using a yellow/white/red RCA instead of just a red/white?

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Hi Winterwilly,
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My new Macbook Pro (or how I got an heart attack but refused to die)

I have been using linux for many years now, and have had some really good experiences with it. The good thing is that you can do whatever you want in linux, the bad thing is that it takes so much time. For many years this wasn't a problem, but since I started studying music I've been pretty busy with touring and recording, and configuring linux takes too much time. Therefore, I was advised to buy a Mac, and so I did. It took two weeks to arrive, and I barely slept those weeks, because after reading about the new Macbook Pros(mid 2009) on the Apple webpage I was stoked. When I got it I almost **** myself! I was so happy when I got it! The first bad thing I noticed was that you could easily push the left side of the undercover down a little, which didn't make it as solid as I thought it would be. But, that was just a little detail. The first thing I did after watching the intro video was to play around with it, and after half an hour, I heard the disk spin faster than usual, then stop, and then it made a beep. Strange, I thought, but went on to format it and reinstall Os X without much of the crap that followed it, so I could get more space, even though I had upgraded it so I had a 500gb 7200RPM hard drive. After reinstalling it I did the usual stuff: add my mails to Apple Mail, get MSN, install music applications etc. During this, I would still get that faster spin, followed with a stopping of the hard drive, and a beep. Still strange, and now even annoying, but I thought that it's alright. A few days later I did a test recording with my jazzband, and we did an amazing recording! As it was all improvised, we were very happy to have it recorded. What we discovered when we played it back though, was that it made a strange noise several places in the recording. I didn't know what it was, but I was really ****** that it ruined the recording. A few days later I was recording something on my midi-keyboard internally, and then I heard that spin and beep again. When I played back the recording I heard that noise just where the beep had been, so I just figured that when the hard drive spins and beeps, it have a hard time saving what's being recorded, and therefore it ends up being noise. I got ****** off, as I had spent 2660USD(with student discount) on a machine so that I wouldn't have any problems, but ended up having one anyways. I called AppleCare and explained the problem, and they said that they would call me back with a solution. Three days later I got a phone, and they told me that it was because the hard disks get put to sleep after some time, and puts something on the hard drive to protect it, and that's what's making the noise. My answer was:
1. IF that was the case, how come you make it like that, so the hard disks are put to sleep when active, like when you are recording?
2. IF that was the case, how come you make it like that, so it makes a noise in the recording when they are put to sleep? and
3. That's not the case, as I don't have that option enabled, both with or without power supply.
He didn't have any answer to this, and said he would call me up later. Three days later he called me up and told me that the noise was most probably because of noise caused by ground loops. I told him that I have read a little about it, and that it most likely wasn't that, but he still sent me an informative mail on how to fix it. I read it, and followed it, but as expected: nothing got better. I told him that, and he said that he would look into it - after two weeks of vacation. As I start my study on August 11. and are going to record from about that date, I can't wait, so today I called AppleCare and spoke to another guy. He let me wait 20 minutes on line(my expense, ofcourse), before saying that they didn't have an answer now, but would call me back tomorrow.
I also bought a Mighty Mouse with the Macbook Pro. I was well aware of the fact that it isn't configured for right click, so I configured it when I plugged it in, but still right click wouldn't work. I called AppleCare and explained, and the guy told me that "it is a very special mouse". He explained how to use it, what I already knew, and as I didn't have more money to call with, the phone ended the call. Needless to say, it still isn't working properly. The right click works every now-and-then, and the buttons on the side works once a week.
As I already told you, I am a musician. After not having to spend times fixing things, like in linux, the music software was the biggest reason I got a Mac. I bought Logic Studio, and was amazed when I got it. It was great! ...for 20 minutes, then I got this overload message, despite the fact that I had two tracks with a couple of loops, and a brand new computer. This bugged me very much, but what was worse was the fact that two weeks later, the new version of Logic came out, and I got no discount on upgrading.
As you might understand, I am starting to get really ****** off. I called Eplehuset, the most official Apple reseller in Norway, and they told me it would take two weeks to fix my Macbook Pro, and that I wouldn't get a machine while waiting. Since I start in the university in 8 days, I can't do that. I just have to load off some of my rage here, and I also hope that you have some tips on how to fix the hard drive.

My eyes just glazed over...Please in the future break down each of your issues with paragraphs separated by two carriage returns. It would be much easier when trying to address your issues.
Go to Apple menu -> System Preferences -> Keyboard and Mouse -> Mouse
And edit your mouse settings to do what you want it to do.
Secondly, this is not the place to vent. If you have a complaint, there is:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/
or http://www.apple.com/contact/
We are just end users here helping other end users.
Third, from my understanding, it would appear you are concerned about the noise the hard drive makes when it falls asleep? Why not put your machine in screen saver mode instead? Apple menu -> System Preferences -> Energy Saver turn off all Energy Saver settings, or set them to run Never.
Fourth, if your machine was purchased just a few days ago, you may still be able to get an exchange from the store, quicker than you can get a repair done. You may want to look into that possibility.
Fifth, it does appear you found the Logic forum. I would persist in asking there how to solve your technical issue with Logic regarding the audio. It may be you don't have to do anything special to the hard drive. Remember audio can be transmitted by wire, avoiding ambient sounds.
Good luck!

What kind of longevity can I expect from the SSD in a new MacBook Pro with Retina Display?

Hi all,
I recently ordered a new MacBook Pro with the Retina Display. This will be both my first computer and my first Mac that uses a SSD as the primary storage device. As the title of this post suggests, what I would like to know is what sort of lifespan/longevity can I expect to get out of it? My current MacBook Pro was manufactured in 2007 and has a stock 160GB Fujitsu hard drive that has been fantastic for me over the past 4-5 years. It continues to run like a champ, and I would hope that a brand new SSD would be able to last at least that long. Given that the new retina MBPs cannot be upgraded or (easily) user-serviced, I am somewhat curious to know whether or not Apple's new proprietary SSD modules will give out/slow to a crawl before/after my new machine becomes completely obsolete. I have been searching for articles published within the past few months on whether or not the current crop of SSDs on the market are more reliable than those introduced a year or two ago, but alas, I haven't had much luck. Perhaps it is still too early to tell?
I found a few discussion threads on here somewhere where some users indicated that their original MacBook Airs, or other SSD-equipped MacBooks, were still performing quite well and responsively after a few years of use. Can anyone substantiate this for me? How long have you been using your SSD(s) in your Mac(s), and do you think the newer models will be able to last several years? I would greatly appreciate any insight.

ARealMac(PPC)User wrote:
...I found a few discussion threads on here somewhere where some users indicated that their original MacBook Airs, or other SSD-equipped MacBooks, were still performing quite well and responsively after a few years of use. Can anyone substantiate this for me? How long have you been using your SSD(s) in your Mac(s), and do you think the newer models will be able to last several years? I would greatly appreciate any insight.
While I think your concern is legitimate (it was mine too), I think to some extent, how long they last will be up to you. The individual cells in the flash media in an SSD have limited life spans, and SSD controllers have a variety of techniques to spread that wear around evenly (wear leveling). That wear is exacerbated by the controller having to erase a whole block of data when even just one page needs to be changed, and if not all the data in the block is still valid, more data than necessary gets moved (write amplification). To provide some extra room for all this reshuffling of data, SSD manufacturers build in extra space that's inaccessible to the user (over-provisioning), but it typically runs about 7%. (This is a good discussion of the inner workings of all this)
If you stuff your SSD full of files, so that there's very little room to do all this rearranging, I think you'll experience the slowdown you're concerned about. TRIM, which Apple's SSD's support, will help, but you can too. Allow plenty of free space on your SSD and perhaps partition it so that there is free space outside the partition (check this out to see what a difference it can make). You can't use it but the controller can as an extension of the built-in over-provisioning.
You also mention that you "will most likely use it to record several tracks and store my growing library of songs and videos." Why not instead use an external SSD connected via USB 3.0 for storage? They're relatively cheap, very fast, and keep the space on your internal working drive free. A BootCamp partition would also take up space, so you might consider using Windows in a Virtual Machine instead. VMware Fusion or Parallels would be installed on the internal SSD but the virtual machine files could go on the external.
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New macbook pro problem, plz help

hey everyone.i just bought the new macbook pro last week, 15" i7core 2ghz. i am a very serious musician, and im going going to university next year to study music, the whole reason i bought this computer is for recording, all the musicians i know who are serious/professionals use macs. when i first turn on my computer everything is fine, but once i plug my guitar in through my zoom g2.1u pedal, garageband freezes and i have to force quit it, this just started happening within the past 2 days.for the first week i recorded with it fine. it was also happening yesterday without even plugging in my guitar at all. when this happens the internet also shuts down. when i open safari it doesnt say you are not conncted to the internet, it just has a blank white page. when this happens everything else isnt working right either, everything is slow and laggy. i paid alot of friggin money for this thing and i wanted to keep it clean the only things ive done to it were, i took some mp3, pdf and guitar pro files from my old windows xp onto my mac through a usb stick, downloaded a mp3 from online and set a cool backround as my desktop. I thought macs were supposed to be resilient? or do i just have a defective one. these problems are quite specific but if i cant use garageband/record with my mac theres not a rly a point of me having one.
i hope someone can help me out here.

Try here:
https://discussions.apple.com/community/ilife/garageband

I have been using a Lightroom 5 including recent upgrades on my Mac Pro laptop for the past 1 year. This was purchased as an upgrade from Lightroom 4 for which I have a serial number. Today I purchased a new Macbook pro and loaded my Lightroom 5 however i

I have been using a Lightroom 5 including recent upgrades on my Mac Pro laptop for the past 1 year. This was purchased as an upgrade from Lightroom 4 for which I have a serial number. Today I purchased a new Macbook pro and loaded my Lightroom 5 however it is asking for my serial number which I have misplaced. I am unable to trace my serial number anywhere. I have even checked my adobe membership to locate my serial number but it does not seem to have any record which is strange as I have been using this software for over a year now and the previous versions since 2009. Could someone help me in my predicament.

Contavct Adobe support thru chat:
Serial number and activation chat support (non-CC)
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/service1.html ( http://adobe.ly/1aYjbSC )

Now who has a brand new MacBook Pro Core 2 Duo?

Hi,
Keep checking each week or so for experiences with the new MacBook Pro Core 2 Duo.
Please let me know how things are working, whether you went 5400 or 7200 internal, pros and cons, size of screen (15" or 17"), etc...
Got my eyes on a 17", but don't know which internal to do.
Thanks!

david, to be perfectly honest I think the primary advantage of the trio is its convenience. no fuss, well thought out monitoring. a dumbed down (in terms of controls) compression and EQ section on the mono mic preamp strip. easy to use talkback, monitor switching and 2 separate headphone amps.
the compressor and EQ do sound nice, the circuitry is lifted from their high end gear, but it's more intended just for getting a decent sound easily and quickly, I'm sure some corners were cut. the EQ bands are preset, the compression control is one knob (plus gain as another way to drive it), but it's a variable mu compressor design so it's normal that there's no threshold and attack/release settings. for what it is, it sounds nice, and I have on occasion chosen to use it over the avalon 737sp because it had the sound I wanted. it sounds good, but as a vocal producer I'm sure you know that for precision work, if its compressor and EQ don't let you tune in to just the right sweet spots in your source due to only having a single preset variable mu threshold/attack/release curve and preset HF and LF EQ, then it won't cut it on that day. you'll need more precise control.
that said, you can bypass its comp/eq by inserting another one, so if you have your fancy rack of golden preamps and channel strips you use for single mic recording, you can stick that in the chain and just benefit from the trio's nicely implemented ease-of-use and record away using all the glorious sounding input and control you get on the channel strip of your choice.
I've found the sound of its converters pretty good too. I haven't A/B'd it with a rosetta or with a digi 192 but I doubt it is in either of those leagues. still, it's clean. stereo field is good.
what would you be looking at it for exactly? if it's for your idea sketchpad setup I'd say check one out, no hesitation. for that kind of use it could hardly be better. and as I mentioned above, you can effectively swap out its channel strip for the best one you have, so it can also be used for tracking of material that you will still be pleased with taking through to mix stage, for those days you aren't tracking in a 2000 dollar a day studio. even the internal comp/EQ is good enough for this if its tuning happens to gel with your source.
one thing I have noticed though is that it's not the quietest pre in terms of hiss. not talking anything as horrible as say the cavernous white background noise of the worst mixer ever made, the yamaha pro 1? I have banished the name from memory.... it's just a subtle thing, comes up more obviously when you wind in HF EQ, obviously.. not even a real issue for rock/pop/dance vocals, maybe more so for recording your favourite baritone at carnegie hall, but you wouldn't really be bringing a small all in one tracking/monitoring box to a session like that anyway, it wouldn't pass dress code. and again, the channel strip is bypassable for a better one anyway, so bye bye to its sound, hello to the sound of your choice.
as for build quality etc, well I think it feels a bit more solid than it looks in photos. although once or twice I had to switch it off and back on again cos the sound died, on a very hot day in a very not airconditioned room.
anyway there you go. if you want better advice, tell me what you actually would want to use it for and I'll tell you what I think. an RME may be a better idea depending on what you need.
btw had a look at your site. looks like you've done your share of nice work. I'd love to play you some of my vocal production work some time (part of me wants to be a vocal producer when I grow up). are you based in LA? I'll likely be there at some point in the new year on a project, always a pleasure to meet fellow music heads.
take care,
antonio

4GB memory on new MacBook Pro Retina 13 with 2.4GHz dual core i5 processor &128GB flash storage

Hello,
I'm completely new to the mac world but I'm fed up with pc's and all the insanity with processor problems, viruses, etc. I'm seriously looking at replacing my HP laptop with the new MacBook Pro Retina 13 with 2.4GHz dual core i5 processor, 4GB memory (RAM) & 128GB flash storage, OS X Mavericks (not sure which version). My concern is whether this will be reliably & consistantly fast & smooth both in desktop apps & internet use. I don't need it to do somersaults or anything too advanced. I would mostly be using Pages & spreadsheet apps & internet. It would double as my daughter's computer for cyber school so it's crucial that it runs quickly & efficiently. If she can't complete everything on time or log in to her online sessions because of a computer issue we'll be up a creek without a paddle since this particular cyber school's tech department is still working off of pc's running Windows XP. My father, thus far a pc user, thought I should consider moving up to 8GB memory but I was hoping that with flash storage being faster, I would be able to avoid the extra $100 for the upgrade to 8GB. My biggest fear is finding myself as frustrated & angry as I am now with all of my pc's, ready to take a sledge hammer to them because they take forever to boot, launch apps, internet or do just about anything (that is if they're even fuctioning at all- not joking). Does anyone have any advice or input? Thanks!!
P.s. On Apple's site I found a refurbished late 2013 model of the MacBook Pro Retina 13 with all of the same specs as listed above (4GB, not 8GB), running OS X (doesn't say which one) but for a bit less than a brand new one. Is this the same model as what they're currently selling new in their store or did they just upgrade everything to match what is being offered in the current "new" model? I realize this may be a dumb question but I can't seem to find anything online indicated that Apple has released a model newer than what was released late last year (October 2013, I believe), except that the model released then came with SSD storage instead of flash.

No computer is fault free but Apple MBPs have a good track record. In those cases where problems do arise, Apple has the best support in the industry.
A MBP with 4 GB RAM with the SSD storage should be adequate for your needs.
lsmoondancer01 wrote:
P.s. On Apple's site I found a refurbished late 2013 model of the MacBook Pro Retina 13 with all of the same specs as listed above (4GB, not 8GB), running OS X (doesn't say which one) but for a bit less than a brand new one. Is this the same model as what they're currently selling new in their store or did they just upgrade everything to match what is being offered in the current "new" model?
The latest MBP models came out in October 2013, so it will be the same, with the same warranty and telephone support. The difference will be that the price will be less and it will be delivered in a plain white box.
I have purchased three MBPs from the refurbished section. I have never been able to detect any cosmetic differences and will go that route again.
Ciao.

Two Time Machines and one MacBook Pro ... migrating to a new MacBook Pro

Background:
I'm a fanatic about backups. I have a Time Machine at home (Time Capsule), and a Time Machine at the work (external USB drive). Both backup my MacBook Pro.
I just got a new MacBook Pro. I plan to migrate my data from my old MacBook Pro (or a clone on a Firewire drive) rather than from one of the Time Machine backups. It's faster than a wireless transfer, and doesn't require all the mucking around with switching to ethernet and back again with Time Capsule.
The question:
How can I make sure both Time Machine backups recognize the new MacBook Pro as a continuation of the previous data? I could start all over again with two fresh backups, but I would prefer not to.
Is it automatic that both Time Machines will recognize a familiar face with a new hat? Is there some trick to making it work, or, at worst, some trick to fixing it? I've read about changing the expected MAC address in Time Machine, but I don't think that's the best answer.
Thanks for your help.

rebby575 wrote:
Background:
I'm a fanatic about backups. I have a Time Machine at home (Time Capsule), and a Time Machine at the work (external USB drive). Both backup my MacBook Pro.
I just got a new MacBook Pro. I plan to migrate my data from my old MacBook Pro (or a clone on a Firewire drive) rather than from one of the Time Machine backups. It's faster than a wireless transfer, and doesn't require all the mucking around with switching to ethernet and back again with Time Capsule.
The question:
How can I make sure both Time Machine backups recognize the new MacBook Pro as a continuation of the previous data?
You can't and they won't. a new computer will start a new backup sequence and there is no way around that.
I could start all over again with two fresh backups, but I would prefer not to.
Is it automatic that both Time Machines will recognize a familiar face with a new hat? Is there some trick to making it work, or, at worst, some trick to fixing it? I've read about changing the expected MAC address in Time Machine, but I don't think that's the best answer.
there is no better answer than that but even if you do change the recorded MAC address in TM backups, TM will still make a complete full backup of the new computer the first time it backs up.
Thanks for your help.

How do I sync Iphone 5 to new MacBook Pro without deleting what's on iPhone?

I just purchased a new MacBook Pro and I have an iPhone 5 that has been synced with my PC. When I try and sync the iPhone with the new MacBook ti tells me that it will erase what is on the iPhone and replace it with what is on the MacBook. I want to sync all that is on the iPhone with the MacBook and not delete what is on the iPhone.
How do I do that without loosing any music, emails, photos, calender appointments, etc.?
Thank you for the help in advance.

A device can only sync with one library at a time. Ideally you transfer the library from the PC to the Mac so it is still syncing with the same library.
iTunes: How to move [or copy] your music [library] to a new computer [or another drive] - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4527 - a somewhat bewildering and not always easily understandable set of options.
Quick answer if you use iTunes' default preferences settings: Copy the entire iTunes folder (and in doing so all its subfolders and files) intact to the other drive. Open iTunes and immediately hold down the Option (alt) key (shift on Windows), then guide it to the new location of the iTunes Library.itl file in the moved iTunes folder.
For the record there's this reference for iTunes 11 but it really doesn't strike me as having the specifics you need. iTunes 11 for Mac: Move your library to another computer - http://support.apple.com/kb/PH12168
Windows users see tip at: https://discussions.apple.com/message/18879381
If you put it in the default location of Macintosh HD > Users > *User Name* > Music then you don't even need to start with the option key held down, iTunes will automatically look for it there. (Make sure there isn't anything already in the iTunes folder there that you want to keep since you will be replacing it with the one you are moving.)
If you don't have the library anymore then it gets messy. You will have to use third party software to transfer the phone contents to the Mac and rebuild your library there so its content matches that of the old library so you are syncin the content back to the phone.
Some of the information below has subsequently appeared in a document by turingtest2: Recovering your iTunes library from your iPod or iOS device - https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3991
Your i-device was not designed for unique storage of your media. It is not a backup device and media transfer was planned with you maintaining a master copy of your media on a computer which is itself properly backed up against loss. Syncing is one way, computer to device, updating the device content to the content on the computer, not updating or restoring content on a computer. The exception is iTunes Store purchases which can be transferred to a computer.
iTunes Store: Transferring purchases from your iOS device or iPod to a computer - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1848 - only purchases from iTunes Store
For transferring other items from an i-device to a computer you will have to use third party commercial software. Examples (check the web for others; this is not an exhaustive listing, nor do I have any idea if they are any good):
- Expod (free) - http://www.headlightsoft.com/expod/ - Mac, universal for 104.+ (newer machines try de-Tune)
- deTune (free) - http://www.headlightsoft.com/detune/ - Mac, 10.5+
- Senuti - http://www.fadingred.com/senuti/
- Phoneview - http://www.ecamm.com/mac/phoneview/
- MusicRescue - http://www.kennettnet.co.uk/products/musicrescue/
- Sharepod (free) - http://download.cnet.com/SharePod/3000-2141_4-10794489.html?tag=mncol;2 - Windows
- Snowfox/iMedia - http://www.mac-videoconverter.com/imedia-transfer-mac.html - Mac & PC
- iexplorer (free) - http://www.macroplant.com/iexplorer/ - Mac&PC
- Yamipod (free) - http://www.yamipod.com/main/modules/downloads/ - PC, Linux, Mac [Still updated for use on newer devices? No edits to site since 2010.]
- 2010 Post by Zevoneer: iPod media recovery options - https://discussions.apple.com/message/11624224 - this is an older post and many of the links are also for old posts, so bear this in mind when reading them.
Syncing to a "New" Computer or replacing a "crashed" Hard Drive - https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3141 - dates from 2008 and some outdated information now.
Copying Content from your iPod to your Computer - The Definitive Guide - http://www.ilounge.com/index.php/articles/comments/copying-music-from-ipod-to-co mputer/ - Information about use in disk mode pertains only to older model iPods.
Get Your Music Off of Your iPod - http://howto.wired.com/wiki/Get_Your_Music_Off_of_Your_iPod - I am not sure but this may only work with some models and not newer Touch, iPhone, or iPad.
Additional information here https://discussions.apple.com/message/18324797

Can't activate Photoshop on new MacBook Pro

Program Version: Photoshop Elements 8.
I just purchased a new MacBook Pro today to replace my three year old MacBook. I sold my old MacBook after I backed it up onto an external hard disk via Time Machine. I have used migration assistant to import everything back onto my new Macintosh and Photoshop throws an error saying that I cannot activate Photoshop because the serial number has been activated more than once (It is also used on my iMac).
My old MacBook has been reformatted and is no longer with me so I cannot go back and deactivate that copy of Photoshop (I have eBay records and emails showing the selling and reformatting of my old Macintosh for proof). What should I do? Who do I talk to? I do not want to purchase another copy of Photoshop. I use Photoshop for graphics in Web Development in University so I need it back up and running!
Thank You.
~Benjamin Anderson

Yes, I realized that afterwards. To contact support for activation problems, go to the very bottom of the web page and click the Contact Adobe link and you'll see a place on the first tab for activation/deactivation. There are phone numbers in a drop down on the right side of the tab. Sorry, I can't link directly because I only get the US numbers here.

Toneport UX2 not working with new MacBook Pro 10.6.2 Snow Leopard

I do some casual recording using a Line 6 Toneport UX2. Previously i was recording on an older Mac Mini. Recently i upgraded to a new Macbook Pro (Snow Leopard 10.6.2)
The new Macbook is not responding at all when i plug in my toneport, all the software for the toneport is installed.
I think the problem is that my toneport is not compatible with an intel Mac. Is this right?
And if it is can i fix this problem with some kind of upgrade for my toneport software(gearbox)?
And if there is no solution can someone recomend a new audio interface for me to get? Under $200.

I use a Toneport UX2 with my intel iMac. I never had the problem you are describing while using Gearbox with GB. However your problem sounds very similar to one I have experienced when I loaded up Line 6 Pod Farm. I discovered that when I start Pod Farm and get the message you mentioned, if I quit Pod Farm then immediately start it again, everything communicates just fine and I'm back in business. I would like to see a fix for this glitch, but for now I just start twice and then get to work.
Give it a try! I am curious to know if you are in the same boat as me.
As a side note, Recently Line 6 offered Pod Farm for no charge to registered owners of a Line 6 interface such as ours. You may want to check it out. It gives you some more options to play with.

HT2494 New Macbook pro retina (haswell)

I have the new macbook pro retina, I have been into the sound settings to switch my input on headphone/built in mic to line in but the option is not there?

OK, well, if directing you to the most appropriate forum is somehow offensive, that's your choice
For the record it is advertised as line in and out
Not on the Late 2013 MacBook Pro it's not. If you look at the specs, it clearly says that it's only a headphone out.
Now, do you want to discuss this like an adult so that we can offer alternatives? Or would you prefer to just continue to act like a child?

Moving iPhotos from Old MacBook Pro to my New MacBook Pro!

How do I move my entire iPhotos Application from my old MacBook Pro to my new MacBook Pro? I want to keep all my albums and slideshows intact. Is this possible? I'm going from a MacBook Pro OS 10.5.8, iPhoto 7.5.1 to MacBook Pro OS 10.9.1 iPhoto 9.5.1

Migration Assistant has a poor record with iPhoto Libraries, unfortunately.
To move an iPhoto Library to a new machine:
Link the two Macs together: there are several ways to do this: Wireless Network,Firewire Target Disk Mode, Ethernet, or even just copy the Library to an external HD and then on to the new machine...
But however you do choose to link the two machines...
Simply copy the iPhoto Library from the Pictures Folder on the old Machine to the Pictures Folder on the new Machine.
Then launch iPhoto. That's it.
This moves photos, events, albums, books, keywords, slideshows and everything else.

Recording on new macbook pro

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