?recs for "best" airport-capable color printer that prints CD/DVDs &

Can anybody please recommend the "best" *reliably airport-wifi-capable* color printer, that can do all of this:
print CD/DVD imagery directly onto discs
print great photos
has a copier/scanner/fax
I honestly don't know if such a thing even exists? I know that I've had some printers that dont work with the airport which is what I want to avoid
thanks

I've just upgraded my 7 year old Canon bubblejet. I purchased the new Canon MP960 which did everything I wanted it to do bar faxing but that wasn't that big an issue for me. The most important thing was that it would be compatible with OS X Leopard - which I will be upgrading to when available.
I ran it through airport with no issues - printing anyways. To use the utlities I'd have to connect direct to my powerbook...a bit of an inconvenience but not insurmountable because I don't have high scanning demands.
Prints photo's like a dream...so I thought I was in heaven. Until I started printing off hi-res art (from illustrator and InDesign)...and I experienced colour reproduction issues. We're not talking the variances you get between screen/bubblejet/offset....we're talking major variances. Even after ensuring the colours were CMYK hues there were still issues. One piece of art was even set using a combo of RGB and CMYK colours....the neighbours can still hear me laughing in frustration.
If I colorsynced I'd get one colour, used the printer drivers another, used "none" yet another colour. Tried various media types and even when using the same setting they would come up categorically different.
2 hours on the phone with Canon and they could offer no suggestions apart from taking it back to where I got it from. So I took it there...and spent another 3 hours with them. They were kind enough to open a new printer and test that one out on their powerbooks....yet the new printer was even worse with colour registration. To cut a long rant short, I got a refund, am currently printerless and would only recommend the MP960 if you were using it for photo's or where the accuracy of the colour was not that important (e.g. if you were using it for business purposes, and you wanted your logo to print out as accurately as possible, then I'd find another printer until Canon get their act together).
The amusing part - my "on it's last legs el-cheapo" Canon had no issues with reproducing the colours accurately.

Similar Messages

What is the recommended image resolution (dpi) for best result in a A0 (plotter) printing?

Is the 300 dpi resolution good enough (images>24bit>1680X1050 pixels) for best printing result in A0 (plotter)?

It sounds almost a trick question. 'How can I use a pen plotter with bit map images?' sort of thing. Plotters are designed for vector artwork, and more suitable for use with Autocad than Photoshop. However there are apparently workarounds, but the question might be more like 'how to convert bit map image for pen plotter?' rather than what resolution you need.
Is there a particular end use for this graphic that requires a plotter? Like laser etch, wood cutter etc. or is it just that the pen plotter can manage A0?

16 mm Movie Transfer / seeking rec for best company

Hello!
I have a bunch of 16 mm movies shot in the 1920s-1950s and I am seeking recommendations for best company for the transfer. Searching this group yielded recommendation for MyMovieTransfer.com which looks like one good option, but it appears they transfer just in 720p. I have reviewed other companies which transfer in 1080p and even some that scan in 2K and 4K. Some companies have detailed descriptions of their equipment including how they line up individual scanned frames optically as superior to mechanically lining up films and many other details. After reviewing those sites I was tending toward the 2K scan as the ultimate quality for 16 mm since I want to do this once for all time before the film deteriorates.
Any recommendations for companies or scan quality would be recommended!

This is a good point as well. I do have the ability to burn Blu-Ray discs and at least commercial discs can be 24 FPS, I don't know about home movies or whether editing can be done in iMovie at 24 FPS. If I need to move to FCPX for this project I can do it. Any recs on transfer company / scan quality?

Have printer that prints black. will not print is color. what do we do

trying to print pictures. Only comes out in black. Has color ink still half full

Hello philandemily
The community needs some more information so that they can help you. If you could, please share the model of your printer as well as any other prevalent information such as Operating System. Also whether or not you have previously been able to print color?
Don't forgot to say thanks by giving "Kudos" to those that help solve your problems.
When a solution is found please mark the post that solves your issue.

Advice for Soon-to-be MacPro Owner. Need Recs for Best Practices...

I'll be getting a Quad Core 3 Ghz with 1GB of RAM, a 250Gig HD, the ATI X1900 card. It will be my first mac after five years (replacing a well-used G4 Tibook 1Ghz).
First the pressing questions: Thanks to the advice of many on this board, I'll be buying 4GB of RAM from Crucial (and upgrading the HD down the road when needs warrant).
1) Am I able to add the new RAM with the 1G that the system comes with? Or will they be incompatible, requiring me to uninstall the shipped RAM?
Another HUGE issue I've been struggling with is whether or not to batch migrate the entire MacPro with everything that's on my TiBook. I have so many legacy apps, fonts that I probably don't use any more and probably have contributed to intermittent crashes and performance issues. I'm leaning towards fresh installs of my most crucial apps: photoshop w/ plugins, lightroom, firefox with extensions and just slowly and systematically re-installing software as the need arises.
Apart from that...I'd like to get a consensus as to new system best practices. What should I be doing/buying to ensure and establish a clean, maintenance-lite, high-performance running machine?

I believe you will end up with 2x512mb ram from the Apple store. If you want to add 4gb more you'll want to get 4x1gb ram sticks. 5gb ram is never an "optimal" amount but people talk like it's bad or something but it's simply that the last gig of ram isn't accessed quite as fast. You'll want to change the placement so the 4x1 sticks are "first" and will be all paired up nicely so your other two 512 sticks only get accessed when needed. A little searching here will turn up explanations for how best to populate the ram for your situation. It's still better to have 5 gigs where the 5th gig of ram isn't quite as fast than 4. They will not be incompatible but you WILL want to uninstall the original RAM, then put in the 4gigs into the optimal slots then add the other two 512 chips.
Do fresh installs. Absolutely. Then only add those fonts that you really need. If you use a ton of fonts I'd get some font checking app that will verify them.
I don't use RAID for my home machine. I use 4 internal 500gig drives. One is my boot, the other is my data (although it is now full and I'll be adding a pair of external FW). Each HD has a mirror backup drive. I use SuperDuper to create a clone of my Boot drive only after a period of a week or two of rock solid performance following any system update. Then I don't touch it till another update or installation of an app followed by a few weeks of solid performance with all of my critical apps. That allows me to update quicktime or a security update without concern...because some of those updates really cause havoc with people. If I have a problem (and it has happened) I just boot from my other drive and clone that known-good drive back to the other. I also backup my data drive "manually" with Superduper.
You will get higher performance with Raid of course, but doing that requires three drives (two for performance and one for backup) just for data-scratch, as well as two more for boot and backup of boot. Some folks can fit all their boot and data on one drive but photoshop and many other apps (FCP) really prefer data to be on a separate disk. My setup isn't the absolute fastest, but for me it's a very solid, low maintenance,good performing setup.

HELP! I just got a new HP printer that prints GRAY and FADED COLORS

I just got a new HP Printer, and all faxes are pure black, all copies are pure black, but anything I send to the printer from my mac prints GRAY and colors are all FADED... I have gone thru all the steps with HP and it seems it is some kind of setting in my mac that I am unaware of... Does anyone out there knows what setting(s) I need to get to in my mac to correct this?

Hi tydiva, and a warm welcome to the forums!
When the Print Dialog comes up, click on the Copies & Pages drop down, check settings under those, especially Colorsync & Pinter Settings or Quality.
Which HP is it?
When the dialog comes up, print as/save as PDF, does it look the same in preview as the printer?

LAN settings for HP LaserJet 500 Color MFP M575: printing OK, network access NO

Printing OK but Network access NOI have a M575 in office LAN.IP 169.254.204.142Subnet 255.255.255.000Router 169.254.204.1Other computers 169.254.204.2-100Everything was good. But couple days ago I was not able to connect to my HP from browser. I was check settings and: IP address on screen HP - 0.0.0.0 I can printing on my HP!!! (destination of printing is: HPLaserJet500ColorMFPM575)but can’t to change settings. I can't change IP adres in JETDIRECT printer's menu. In command prompt PING of 169.254.204.142 is OK… Hand settings IP on start (1/8 click ), searching in administrative menu, cold reset… nothing I don’t know what I can to do else.

This is my IPConfig screen:C:\>IPConfig /all
Windows IP Configuration
Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : T420
Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . :
Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Peer-Peer
IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
Ethernet adapter Bluetooth Network Connection 2:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Bluetooth Device (Personal Area Network)
#2
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 60-D8-19-D8-A4-3B
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection 6:
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Intel(R) 82579LM Gigabit Network Connecti
on
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-21-CC-66-CA-38
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::385f:1def:62ae:8cd5%75(Preferred)
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 169.254.204.2(Preferred)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : 29 xxxxxxxxxxx 2015 15:25:46
Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : 30 xxxxxxxxxxx 2015 15:25:46
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 169.254.204.1
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 169.254.204.1
DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 1610621388
DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-15-69-54-50-00-1E-37-1A-5A-E8
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : fe80::5ef9:6aff:fedf:5f3b%75
169.254.204.1
169.254.204.1
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled
Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection 2:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Intel(R) Centrino(R) Advanced-N 6205
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : A0-88-B4-D2-3E-B0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 57:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft 6to4 Adapter
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Tunnel adapter isatap.{32EA8AA7-0304-411D-9B3C-9BE6D6E53F7D}:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #2
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 135:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Tunnel adapter isatap.{0E880DF2-FD27-4BF8-BBD9-EA726316C1FE}:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #4
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Tunnel adapter isatap.{FFBD17DC-A12B-469A-8135-C63D9BBEBB31}:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #6
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
C:\>

I have a cp1518ni laserjet printer that prints fine black evenly spaced vertical lines on Photo's

The printer prints fine on Documents. I have changed out low toner cartridges, realigned the printer, and have installed additional memory and still the lines persist. I use the universal print driver for PCL 5. Any ideas?

Hello,
You should try upgrading to PCL6 UPD.
Here are a few links that might help:
Software and Driver Download page for CP1518ni:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&os=2093&product=3422472&sw_la...=&
Information regarding thin lines:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01487425&tmp_task=solveCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lc...=
Good luck,
Lagun
I work for HP, but my posts and replies are my own.
I am an HP employee
Say Thanks by clicking the Kudos Star if the post helped you.
Please mark the post that solves your problem as Accepted Solution.

How can I force my printer to print doublesided when sending a doc through eprint?

I found out how to force my printer to accept doublesided as standard when printing but it still does not print doublesided when I am sending a print job through HPeprint: can I force that somewhere?

Sorry to hear that it is not possible to print twodieded when mailing file to printer.
I would also like to be able to choos color or black-only printing when mailing.
I could accept to have 4 differnt mailadresses to same printer for setting b/w, color and 1or2sided printing.
Or at least change the default setting to when I mail it wil alllways be 2sided.
Should not be to hard to allow us to modify defaults at least.
To add configurable options with mulitple adresses would require more I think.
/Patrik

Best All-In-One Printer for MacBookPro & Airport Express

I want to buy an all-in-one color printer for my office. My main computer is a new MacBook Pro with the latest OS, and my network runs on an Airport Express. I want all of the computers on the Express network to be able to print, scan, fax. etc. through the wireless network. I want a work-horse printer that has a low cost-per-page to print, I don't need a photo-quality printer. Any suggestions? I can't get my current HP LaserJet 1320tn to work at all through the Express.

"Different strokes for different folks."
Read the reviews & system requirements of all the printers you are interested in purchasing. My personal preference is Epson.

Is there a printer that has on-demand auto on-off capability for the mac

Is there a printer that turns on automatically when you select print for a document that works with a mac. I used to have an old Canon i960 printer with my Windows PC and it was configurable in software for on demand on-off when printing a document.
Does anyone know of one preferably multifunction photo inkjet.
Thanks in advance
Dave

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but a printer must be consuming a little electricity for it to sense and respond to a command to turn on and print. Therefore, I suggest you forget buying a new printer with this feature and simply leave the printer you already have on all the time.
Just a thought!

Pre-Size Your PPI for Best Print - Once Good Advice Still Good?

In another thread someone mentinoed pre-sizing image data to prepare it for best printing.
For a long time it's been "standard advice" to resize images so that the ppi is an even division of the printer's dpi, because some years ago occasionally one would run across printers that would produce poor results if you didn't - you might see jaggies in straight edges for example.
Thing is, computers have (not so) quietly been getting more powerful over time, and printer makers have been competing with one another to try to make their printers produce better results than the other guys. One way they've done this is by improving the quality of the algorithms in the printer drivers. Use of mega storage and high accuracy math, which was once taxing on older computer systems, is now standard practice.
So it's time to question the old rule of thumb.
Making a few assumptions about the many variables (what printer, what OS, what version of drivers, what application being used to print) , there seem to be several questions here:
1. Can the image resolution be too high, causing the printer driver to make bad decisions about what ink dots to lay down where on the paper?
2. Does it help or matter if the image PPI is an even division of the printer's DPI?
As I have done in the past, I set out to do some actual testing, to see if I can actually SEE anything to help answer these questions.
I created a sharp image to be printed at 3 x 2 inches: http://Noel.ProDigitalSoftware.com/ForumPosts/Ghirardelli.jpg
Then I printed it at 6 different resolutions (1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, and 100 ppi) by resampling the image, labeling it, printing from Photoshop CS5, and feeding the same sheet of HP Premium Plus photo paper through my older HP 932c inkjet printer 6 times. The printer was set to its highest quality settings, including 2400 x 1200 dpi mode. This was the result:
I then looked critically and as objectively as I could at the different images. Here are my observations:
Naked eye:
The four highest resolution images (1000, 720, 567, and 300 ppi) all seemed to have an equivalent high level of crisp detail.
I could not detect the inkjet dots. Smooth objects look smooth.
Jeweler's Loupe:
I could see significant reduction in the finest details in the 300 ppi print vs. the three higher resolution prints, and a slight reduction in the 567 ppi vs. 720.
At no resolution were any jaggies or evidence of aliasing visible.
The inkjet dot pattern was plainly visible, and it does differ between the different prints. But it was not possible to say whether one was "better".
Things seem to have a little more texture in the 1000 ppi print vs. the 720 and 567 ppi prints.
Macro Photo:
Lacking a high resolution scanner, I took photographs of the 6 different prints. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to set up with my best lighting and lens combination, so I got some reflections off the glossy paper, and and at this resolution I can't really see the inkject dots in the photos. I want to repeat this when I can find more time to do it better. As I did these photos hand-held, I believe the variances between them could be slightly influencing the results. But I'm going to post them anyway, for you to see.
I could see ever so slightly more detail in the 720 ppi print vs. the 1000 ppi print, though from the size of the tiny dust/light reflections I think it may have just been the better focused. Note that this observation is not supported by direct observation through the jeweler's loupe, above.
The 1000 ppi and 567 ppi prints seems to have slightly more noise or texture than the 720 ppi print. Again, this might be issues introduced by the photography process, though I did note a possible increase in texture in the 1000 ppi print with the jeweler's loupe as well.
Beyond just the blurring, I could see some evidence that straight lines are not quite as straight in the lower resolutions (300 ppi and lower). This seemed more apparent than with the jeweler's loupe examination, and I wonder whether the Photoshop downsampling process could have introduced it.
Left to right, top to bottom: 1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, 100:
Conclusions:
Printing to my HP 932c inkject printer on Windows 7 x64
300 ppi is not sufficient to coax the best possible detail out of an inkjet printer. It appears a number in the vicinity of 720 or more is better, and this number could be much higher with modern very high resolution printers (mine's old).
Speed was no different in printing any of these - a modern computer can process a huge amount of data in the blink of an eye.
When a sufficiently high resolution image is printed (in this case 567 ppi or higher) I saw virtually no evidence that a particular ppi value is superior, for example an even division of the printer's dpi, though in hindsight I realize I should have prepared a 600 ppi image (duh). I will add a 600 ppi image before I re-photograph the results.
It's possible ever so slightly more texture becomes visible at 1000 ppi than 720 ppi, but it might be just noise.
Practically speaking, from looking critically at the results I could not see a reason to pre-size the image for a specific ppi value.
I encourage you to experiment and report your results with your particular combination of gear.
Your comments are welcome!
-Noel

Noel Carboni wrote:
Jeff Schewe wrote:
I would never suggest people actually downsample though...why waste the pixels?
Exactly. There was a statement in another recent thread that downsampling to be an even fraction of the print dpi was important to do.
It might have been a misapplied extension of the advice to upsample. It's not been all that long that we've had big enough high resolution data that even makes downsampling a possibility.
-Noel
I believe I was the one to make that statement, which was based on recommendations by an Epson Print expert at a seminar demoing printers. He showed to prints from the same file, one set at an even multiple of 720 and the other some random number. It was subtle but visible the difference. That was probably 5 years ago.
In the meantime, I have made extensive tests of prints on my Epson 3800 trying many combinations of single pass, hi speed, Super fine print (2880x1440) and down to the basic level.
Everything evened out at 720 dpi. At 360, which is where I output from ACR, I can make an 8x12 print with no resampling whatsoever. Upping that to 720 and pushing the printer hard (2880x1440, single pass on Canson Platine), I see a discernable difference in the smooth tonalities.
As I understood you from past conversations, you employ the maximum output size from ACR which in my case, would double the file size by upsampling, and if necessary, downsample from that. I am not comfortable doing that as a default operation, but perhaps Jeff S might step in here and clarify. After all, ACR does offer that option! But my file size now goes from ~70MP to 143 MP, cutting my storage capability by 1/2. It's not a trivial matter when two of us here can run 600 to 800 images in 1/2 day!

Color management help needed for adobe CS5 and Epson printer 1400-Prints coming out too dark with re

Color management help needed for adobe CS5 and Epson printer 1400-Prints coming out too dark with reddish cast and loss of detail
System: Windows 7
Adobe CS5
Printer: Epson Stylus Photo 1400
Paper: Inkjet matte presentation paper with slight luster
Installed latest patch for Adobe CS5
Epson driver up to date
After reading solutions online and trying them for my settings for 2 days I am still unable to print what I am seeing on my screen in Adobe CS5. I calibrated my monitor, but am not sure once calibration is saved if I somehow use this setting in Photoshop’s color management.
The files I am printing are photographs of dogs with lots of detail I digitally painted with my Wacom tablet in Photoshop CS5 and then printed with Epson Stylus 1400 on inkjet paper 20lb with slight luster.
My Printed images lose a lot of the detail & come out way to dark with a reddish cast and loss of detail when I used these settings in the printing window:
Color Handling: Photoshop manages color, Color management -ICM, OFF no color adjustment.
When I change to these settings in printer window: Color Handling: Printer manages color. Color management- Color Controls, 1.8 Gamma and choose Epson Standard it prints lighter, but with reddish cast and very little detail and this is the best setting I have used so far.
Based on what I have read on line, I think the issue is mainly to do with what controls are set in the Photoshop Color Settings window and the Epson Printer preferences. I have screen images attached of these windows and would appreciate knowing what you recommend I enter for each choice.
Also I am confused as to what ICM color management system to use with this printer and CS5:
What is the best ICM to use with PS CS5 & the Epson 1400 printer? Should I use the same ICM for both?
Do I embed the ICM I choose into the new files I create?
Do I view all files in the CS5 workspace in this default ICM?
Do I set my monitor setting to the same ICM?
If new file opens in CS5 workspace and it has a different embedded profile than my workspace, do I convert it?
Do I set my printer, Monitor and PS CS5 color settings to the same ICM?
Is using the same ICM for all devices what is called a consistent workflow?
I appreciate any and all advice that can be sent my way on this complicated issue. Thank you in advance for your time and kind help.

It may be possible to figure out by watching a Dr.Brown video on the subject of color printing. Adobe tv
I hope this may help...............

Consistent Color Settings in Aperture & PS for Best Looking Book

I would like to get input from the users on this forum on how best to keep the color profiles consistent, from shooting, to image editing in Aperture and in Photoshop CS2 and finally, to get the best looking Aperture hardcover book.
Here are the settings that I am using:
Canon 10D DSLR camera, using standard "parameter" setting for large JPEG: sRGB
Apple Cinema Display 30": profiled using GretagMacbeth (Xrite) Eye One Color, with gamma at 2.2 and D65 Kelvin temperature setting.
Aperture>View Menu>Proofing Profile: sRGB IEC91966-2.1
Aperture Screen Profiling Enabled.
External Editor-Photoshop CS2 Working Color Space: Edit Menu>Color Settings: Working Space:
RGB = sRGB IEC61966-2.1
CMYK: U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2
Gray: Gray gamma 2.2
Spot: Dot gain 20%
And here is my question. After selecting a JPEG photo that is embedded with sRGB profile from within Aperture, I select "external editor" (Photoshop CS2) for further image editing. When I do that, Photoshop dialog box "Embedded Profile Mismatch" opens up and states,
Embedded: sRGB Profile
Working: sRGB IEC61966-2.1
It asks me to make a selection:
1. Use the embedded profile (instead of Working Space)
2. Convert document's color to the working space.
3. Discard the embedded profile (do't color manage).
I've been selecting #1...."Use embedded profile".
So, now that I am nearing the point of putting a Aperture book together, I'm wondering if I have created a problem for myself when my "working color space" is sRGB IEC61966-2.1 and my embedded color profile in the JPEGs are sRGB.
When I did a test sample when the "Profile Mismtach" window came up, I selected "Convert document's color to the working space" and I could not tell the color difference on my Apple Cinema Display.
Also, when I looked at the metadata on the "converted photo", it still had the sRGB profile and not "sRGB IEC61966-2,1".
Should I worry about this mismatch between what are embedded on my JPEGs and my working color space on my Apple Cinema Display?
Should I NOT use sRGB IEC61966-2.1 proofing (Aperture) and color setting (Photoshop) profile. Instead, stick with sRGB on both settings? Or does it matter....I cannot tell the difference with my brief test.
I realize that from reading other posts, Apple does not have a ICC profile for the book companies that print for Apple. Also, I've read about in this forum about the "Average McCoy Gloss Profile" but I'm not sure if anyone has used this using Aperture1.5 and that posting is now closed. Furthermore, I've read somewhere that Apple uses the RGB profiles for book printing, not CMYK. Thank you.
Takashi
PM G5 Dual 2.5Ghz Mac OS X (10.4.6) 4 GB RAM;
PM G5 Dual 2.5Ghz Mac OS X (10.4.6) 4 GB RAM;

Welcome to the forum.
First off, you need to go and buy a hardware monitor calibrator, such as an OptixXR or similar. This will build a custom monitor profile for your specific screen. Without this starting point you can forget ANY attempt at accurate colour matching.
Never (and I mean never) use a working space such as sRGB or Adobe98 as your monitor profile, that's not what they are designed for. Working spaces control what colours are possible in the image, monitor profiles control how those colours are shown on screen. Aperture uses it's own working space so you don't have to worry about that too much.
To answer the rest far too briefly, I'd suggest setting the proofing profile to sRGB and of course use sRGB for the export preset. The gamma setting you will have to adjust depending on how dark the Lightjet prints look compared to your screen. You will have to do test-strips to start with.
Your images looking crap on flickr on Windows machines is partly because Windows web browsers generally do NO colour correction, and only partly to do with the different gamma.
Ian

Just updated to new Firefox - now when clicking on a website to visit the color of the print no longer changes to indicate that I have visited that site already. How can I get that feature again?

Since updating to new firefox I have lost a very helpful tool. Before, when I clicked on a website to visit, the color of the print would change from blue to purple to indicate that I had visited that site. Now it does not do that so it is difficult to keep track of what sites I have visited and what sites I haven't when looking down the list of possible sites to visit.

Make sure that you do not run Firefox in permanent Private Browsing mode.
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Private+Browsing
*You enter Private Browsing mode if you select: Tools > Options > Privacy > History: Firefox will: "Never Remember History"
*To see all History and Cookie settings, choose: Tools > Options > Privacy, choose the setting <b>Firefox will: Use custom settings for history</b>
* Deselect: [ ] "Permanent Private Browsing mode"
Make sure that the History is enabled:
* Tools > Options > Privacy > Firefox will: "Use custom settings for history" > Remember my browsing history
See also http://blog.mozilla.com/security/2010/03/31/plugging-the-css-history-leak/

?recs for "best" airport-capable color printer that prints CD/DVDs &

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