Removing stand of 2007 Intel-based iMac

Is it possible to remove/replace the stand of the mid-2007 20" Intel-based iMac?
Thanks in advance!

It would be great if someone could answer this before I have to tear open my 20" iMac...My stand is 1.5 inches too tall. I want to take the stand off, cut off 2 inches from the middle and weld it back together. If the entire bottom of the display wasn't vented I could just cut the stand and prop it like an easle, but that unfortunately will not work.

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2007 intel based iMac has the white screen of death with the mouse visible?? WHATSUP

My 2007 Intel based IMAC has the white screen of death with the mouse cursor as the only visible item. What is up with this? Is this the equivalent of the windows blue screen of death?
Doug

Read the "More Like This" thread links located at the bottom left of this page.

Does the Aluminum Mid-2007 Intel-based iMac include a USB extension cable?

Hello everyone,
I live in Canada, and my Aluminum (Mid-2007) 20" iMac did not include a USB extension cable for the keyboard. I have read on the forums that other members' Aluminum iMacs did not come with it either. I also read someone from Japan who said his iMac came with the cable, but I am not sure if he had an Aluminum or White iMac. I know that the standalone new keyboards do come with the USB extension cable. I would like to know if your Aluminum (Mid-2007) iMacs came with this accessory. Please let me know if it did or did not. Thank you for your help, and I await your reply.
Cya!
\m/ Mage \m/
P.S. I bought my iMac the same day Leopard launched, and then I received it in the first half of November.

Hi Bob and mrtotes,
Thank you very much for your helpful replies. I apologize that I have been away for a couple of days--I have been very busy with final assignments, so I did not get to reply to you until now.
I do find the cable a little short after I slide my keyboard tray under, but all I have to do is turn Mighty Mouse around before then. Other than that, Mighty Mouse's built-in cable is long enough when I am interacting with my iMac.
It makes sense that only the Mac Pro would need the USB extension cable more than the portables and iMacs would. I don't know why I did not think of that before--I guess that's why we we're here when we're not sure! And of course the Mac Mini does not come with input devices unless you ask because the whole point of the Mac Mini is BYODKM (bring your own display, keyboard, and mouse).
Thanks again for your help with answering my questions--I really appreciate it.
Cya!
\m/ Mage \m/

How do I fax from my Intel-based iMac through a shared network fax?

The Intel-based iMac no longer has a built-in modem, so sending a fax from it is impossible. However, I set up fax sharing on my older (wiser and more mature) iMac, through a shared computer. The problem is that when I go to fax from my Intel-based iMac, it tells me that it cannot find a modem. I don't understand why it won't simply go through the shared fax on the network. I realize that it doesn't have an internal modem. That is why I am telling it to go through the network fax/printer that I set up. It won't listen. Kids!
As it stands, If I want to fax an InDesign document, for example, I have to export it to a pdf and move it (via the network) to the older iMac. This is time consuming and cumbersome. But, if the new iMac is incapable of performing properly over the network, what other choices are there?
If anyone knows of a way to fix this, I'd appreciate knowing. I am looking for the most efficient, time-saving way. Going online to find a faxing service, free or not, is not an option as that is just adding more steps.
Thanks very much.

I have been faxing from my Leopard machine through the shared internal fax modem on a Tiger machine across the room ever since I bought it and it worked fine. Until now. Apparently the 10.5.7 upgrade broke something, because it no longer works. I get this error message:
"A really really real fax number was not provided"
and then the document is deleted from the queue. I tried resetting the print system, as suggested elsewhere, but that still doesn't work.

Intel-based iMac stuck in grey screen with spinning wheel. SMC::smcReadKeyAction ERROR THOP kSMBadArgumentError(0x89)

Hi guys,
since yesterday my Intel-Based iMac doesn't boot normally, its stuck in grey screen with a spinning wheel.
Its an Intel-based iMac 21.5'' purchased in 2011, and i recently (2 months ago) upgraded it to Mavericks.
-2 weeks ago, i installed smcFanControl app
-Tried start up in Safe Mode by holding Shift but its not working. i think i hear fans are working more than they were before the problem occurs.
-entered Single User Mode and i get an error
SMC ::smcReadKeyAction ERROR THOP kSMCBadArgumentError(0x89) fKeyHashTable=0x0xffffff8029fa1000
-followed some instructions found online, but can execute the correct commands in SingleUserMode
tried to remove FanControl as explained here: http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/110667/errorr-kernel-smcsmcreadkeyactio n-in-console
any ideas what may caused this and how can i fix this?
Thanks in advance

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, boot from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 10. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Intel based iMac Seems to Be Getting Slower

I have one of the recent Intel based iMac's. Everything seems to run fine but the system is starting to slow down. I doubt it's mechanical, I do IT work for a living so I'm probably much more sensitive to it then most people are. I'm just wondering what might be causing it? For example system startup seems to have gotten noticeably slower since I purchased back in may of this year. Normal application use seems the same, but if I run a old powerpc based game, I need to restart the machine after I close it, otherwise the machine crawls.
The system has the latest OS updates, 4GB Ram, 2.8GHZ processor, Geforce 8800GS 512MB. I'm using a wired Apple Pro Keyboard (white keys, right before the aluminum release), Logitech MX518 Wired Mouse. The 4GB of ram is not standard, but a matched pair of 2GB chips from Other World Computing.
I use a program called Xslimmer to weed out files I don't need to save space. I don't have any really large files on the system, just thousands of smaller photos & documents. Free space on the hard disk is 318.79GB. I have 3 login items: CoverSutra, iTunes Helper, and EyeTV Helper that run automatically on startup.
Any suggestions? Should I consider an application like Drive Genius, Spring Cleaning, etc? I did install the Logitech Control Center (don't know how to remove it) but I don't use it, it's not in my startup items, and doesn't see the mouse anyway.
Thanks!

Try starting without the eyeTV stuff. (I've noticed my Macbook which used to shut down in exactly 3 seconds now takes 8 seconds, and this began the day I installed eyeTV).
I would then try starting without CoverSutra. You need to eliminate things one by one.

What can happen to an intel-based iMac when a power outage occurs while it is on and I unplug it to avoid a surge when power comes back?

The power went out today, while I was using my intel-based iMac (2008) and I rushed to unplug the power from the wall, before the poser could surge back on. Did I do damage?
I have a surge protector that it was plugged into, but I thought just to be safe I should unplug!
Thanks, Group!
artdough

Good point!
Art a surge protector (a good one) is designed to provide contant power to the devices that are plugged into it. This is good in the event of a surge of power up or down however in the event of a complete power outage they're of no value.
A UPS (Uninteruptable Power Supply) is just that, it has surge protection like a surge suppresor however it also has a battery integrated into it. The battery is designed to provide enough power for a user to do an orderly shutdown. In addition most UPS's can also plug into your iMac via a USB cable. Then you can set energy saver preferences that you cannot see now. For example you can set how long the computer should run in the event of power going off. You can also set if you want the computer to reboot or not when the power comes back on etc. For about $100 you can get a fine UPS that will add an additional layer of protection for your computer and give you extra peace of mind.

User Contributed Tips in Intel-based iMac Your Intel-based iMac Display

*The following User Contributed Tips are located in the Intel-based iMac > Your Intel-based iMac Display forum:*
a brody - Using a second Mac as a display for a first
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1587927
Publish date: July 7, 2008
*The following related tips are located in other areas of Apple Discussions:*
See also User Tips Library

My 20" 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo had become almost useless due to freezes and crashes- with NO crash reports in the logs.
They were often preceeded by video glitches, so I assumed it was a bad video card- unfortunately soldered to mother board.
Apparently, from forum postings, this is not an uncommon problem. The computer would run longer if the day was cooler, but rarely more than 10 minutes, so I suspected it was aggravated by heat.
Then I found this post from Bodomann on an Apple Support forum:
"Following up on my previous posting regarding my son's late model 2006 iMac that required a $900 logic board replacement:
Turns out the problem is apparently related to a bad CPU temp sensor. I installed 'iMac Fan Control' (Google it) which reported the CPU temp always at 32 degrees Fahrenheit (obviously incorrect). The same software allowed me to adjust the CPU fan manually. After multiple trials I set the CPU speed to 2800RPM after which the system would run forever - never freezing with the dreaded grey box 'reboot me' screen. I tried several times reverting the software to default speeds and the system would always crash within 10 minutes. "
I downloaded free Fan Control 1.2 for Imac from Derman Enterprises (they have an Intel iMac and a Mac Book/Pro version). It installs as a system preferences control panel. I cranked up all three fan speeds. The fans sped up noticeably. Horizontal lines have gone from screen (so far), no color artifacts and no crashes yet. I may have a real computer back! Hope Apple checks this out-
The control panel also gives the temps sensors are reporting at the CPU, hard drive and DVD drive. The CPU sensor reports the CPU temp as 32 degrees F- which is clearly wrong, unless Apple has been installing little refrigerators inside.
So thanks to Bodomann for posting- Hats off and three cheers to Derman and Cristoph for source code.
http://www.derman.com/iMac-Fan-Control
http://www.lobotomo.com/products/FanControl/index.html

My old Intel-Based iMac is no longer recognizing USB wired input devices; it only recognizes Bluetooth. What happened?

My friend's old Intel-Based iMac is no longer recognizing USB-wired input devices (Kensington TrackBall, Logitech Mouse) plugged into any USB slot at the back of the computer.
They were working before and for many years.
All of a sudden, A pop up window came up. IT said no Bluetooth mice could be found. We don't know what set off that window to pop up and look for a WL mouse. It never has before in the 5 or more years my friend has been using this computer.
I supplied a wireless Apple mouse and his is back running again.
But want to know why his USB-input devices (Except his keyboard) are not being recognized. He would prefer to use his Trackpad (Wired), but can't find anything in SYstem PReferences to allow that. The computer only seems to want a Bluetooth input device.
Anyone have an idea what happened and if this can be reversed?
I think he is still running Mac OS X 10.5.8.

Hi Carol, lets try this...
reset FW bus, same goes for USB reset...
Reset the Firewire bus
If your Firewire or USB isn't recognizing any device. A solution which has worked for some whose hard drive became invisible in 10.4 was simply to follow these four steps to reset the Firewire/USB bus:
1. Shut the machine down.
2. UNPLUG the power lead to the computer and any firewire/USB drive/devices.
3. leave it for 10 minutes.
4. Connect back up and reboot.
http://www.macmaps.com/firewirebug2.html

HT1338 Left hand side of monitor dims on 2011/intel based iMac-any suggestions?

Left hand side of monitor dims on 2011 /intel based iMac-any suggestions? Called apple support. Restarted-didn't help. Unplugged my second monitor from the thunderbolt port-didn't help. Unplugged center cord in the middle on the back of the monitor-waited 15 seconds, restarted, held down option-command-p-r and this didn't help. Apple support thought that it was most likely a video card/hardware issue, but would like to hear of any other trouble shooting suggestions.

Not a hardware issue, since it shows up in a screenshot. Please boot in safe mode, launch Safari, and test. Same problem?
Some things won't work in safe mode, possibly including wireless networking.
After testing, reboot as usual (not in safe mode.)
Mac OS X: Starting up in Safe Mode

Hi . i have Intel based iMac. i erased whole hard disk. now it flashes folder icon with question mark... i have no internet or orginal dvd.... i want to clean install any mac osx..friend got mac book pro and osx in dmg format . what are my options?

hi . i have Intel based iMac. i erased whole hard disk. now it flashes folder icon with question mark... i have no internet or orginal dvd.... i want to clean install any mac osx..friend got mac book pro and osx in dmg format . what are my options?

On your friend's computer with an internet connection, log into the Mac App Store with your ID and download Yosemite from the Purchases section of the Mac App Store. The make a bootable USB install media using
http://liondiskmaker.com/
Then boot from that on your computer and install
You need an internet connection to install via Recovery mode

I have an Intel based iMac that has just developed two small spots on the screen. One 1/8" circle at bottom and a tiny circle at top. The fading on and off light isn't working anymore either. Does anyone know anything about this?

I have an Intel based iMac that has just developed two small spots on the screen - they look light brighter spots on the screen. One 1/8" circle at bottom right and a tiny circle at top right. The fading on and off light on area surrounding the screen isn't working anymore either. Has anyone else had similar problems? Any solutions? Thanks!

One way to test is to Safe Boot from the HD, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, Test for problem in Safe Mode...
PS. Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive
Reboot, test again.
If it only does it in Regular Boot, then it could be some hardware problem like Video card, (Quartz is turned off in Safe Mode), or Airport, or some USB or Firewire device, or 3rd party add-on, Check System Preferences>Accounts>Login Items window to see if it or something relevant is listed.
Check the System Preferences>Other Row, for 3rd party Pref Panes.
Also look in these if they exist, some are invisible...
/private/var/run/StartupItems
/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/LaunchDaemons
/Library/LaunchDaemons

Intel based iMacs won't netboot

Hi,
I'm trying to get two labs of intel based iMacs to netboot. I cannot get them to boot from my MacOS 10.4.7 server (Dual G5 1.8Ghz PowerMac). I have sucessfully used the server to netboot almost 100 PowerPC macs (either eMacs or iMac G4's). Is there something special that has to be done to netboot an intel iMac? I created my boot image from the OS X install DVD that came with one of the iMacs. I'm really stumped, any help would be greatly apprecaited

multiple network and netboot server problems caused this, it hds been resolved

Spector on Intel based iMac

Is anybody running Spector on an Intel based iMac or had any experience running Spector on an Intel based iMac.
There are some postings recording Spector but nothing referencing it being run on an Intel iMac.
I have tried contacting Spectorsoft but get the 'canned' response stating they cannot comment or endorse the product running on an Intel iMac as it was no designed as a 'Universal' application.
Thank You,
MV
iMac Intel Core Duo, 17" Widescreen Mac OS X (10.4.5) 1.83 Ghz, 1 GB, 160 GB HD, G3 Canon Powershot, 3210 HP Printer, 6 GB iPod mini

.

Is it possible to run OS 9 CD-ROMs on an Intel-based iMAC?

My children have a bunch of CD-ROMs that run using Mac OS 9.
Is there any way to run these on an Intel-based iMAC?
My kids were so excited to get a new MAC and then so disappointed when they found they couldn't play some of their favourite games on it.

A quick search of the forum comes up with these results. Sheepshaver is an option sometimes.
http://discussions.apple.com/search.jspa?threadID=&q=sheepshaver&objID=f1110&dat eRange=last90days&userID=&numResults=15

Removing stand of 2007 Intel-based iMac

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