Repair vs replace option when MBR is probably bad?

I could use some assistance getting the Thinkvantage & F11 buttons working again. Fn and Thinkvantage buttons work correctly when booted into Windows as does the R&R software, but will not go into the recovery partition when booting the machine.
The blue Thinkvantage button will only show a "Startup Interrupt Menu" with three options: pressing ESC to resume startup normally, F1 to enter the BIOS or F12 to load the boot menu.
I ran the MBR repair floppy (the CD ISO I found reported errors on download & burn with 2 different programs), but it said that the MBR might not be from Lenovo and did apparently did nothing. Should I try the replace option instead of repair? What will that do and will it affect my disk partitions?
I did repartition the C drive into multiple C, D, & E drives, but did not change or move the service partition which I can see in disk management. This was all working until I booted the machine with an old drive in the SATA ultrabay. Windows went wacko getting drive letters confused and kind of merging the boot from both drives. I got that fixed and the preboot environment is all thats left to resolve.
Thanks a lot

Everyone is different, and sometimes people have sentimental attachments to systems that override what makes economic sense to most people... Most techs I know use a 50% threshold. If repairing is going to cost more than 50% of a new system, it's probably not worth fixing.
USUALLY in these cases systems are 2-3 years old or more, so people can at least take comfort in the fact that they're getting a better overall system. In your case, you don't have that, so the threshold for repair vs replace should maybe be more around 75%. But from some of the liquid damaged systems I've seen, and estimates I've written up... I don't think you'll have that big of an issue making a decision. Bare minimum they'll probably have to replace the logic board. There's also a good chance the display is damaged, and replacing the battery after liquid damage is generally a good idea, just to be safe. There's a good chance the repair costs would exceed the cost of a new system.
And for the record, you did about all you could given the circumstances. The damage was done the moment the liquid came in contact with the circuitry. There's really nothing you can do with liquid spills except clean things up as best you can and hope for the best.

Similar Messages

Bad soldered in RAM? Repair or replace options?

I have an old iBook G4 that froze up and didn't recover. After it froze I tried to reboot with no luck, it just freezes during the boot-up process. Soooo, I ran a hardware test with the CD and of course everything is great, the only concern is that when it tested the RAM the screen went fuzzy for awhile and then came back- not sure if that is normal. I tried to re-install OS and it froze halfway through that. I rebooted in target disc mode and drug all my files off onto my desktop and called it a night.
From what I can gather, because it freezes even with the install CD that it is a hardware issue, not a software problem. And since it boots fine in target disc mode the hard drive seems to be fine. Freezing usually means not enough RAM, so I am guessing that the RAM is bad, but in this case it is soldered in. If I add more RAM but don't remove the old will it still give me grief? Or is this a factory repair job, or is it even worth that? What are my options? Thanks!

...the only concern is that when it tested the RAM the screen went fuzzy for awhile and then came back- not sure if that is normal.
I believe what you saw was actually the video RAM test, not the system RAM test. The video RAM test does send all sorts of different colored screen configurations through the video system. You will see several multi-colored screens and this is normal.
I would suggest you run the hardware test more than once. On some hardware test software, you can press "option - L" (or it might be "control - L") to set the software in "loop" mode (the text "loop mode" will appear). Leave it running in loops over night. An error may not be caught in the first run or even the second run.
-Doug

I would like to inquire about how I could have my iPad 2 repaired or replaced. I bought it With a credit card via apple store website last June 19 of this year. At first, I already noticed a little white spot in the middle of the screen visible when the d

I would like to inquire about how I could have my iPad 2 repaired or replaced. I bought it With a credit card via apple store website last June 19 of this year. At first, I already noticed a little white spot in the middle of the screen visible when the display on screen is dark. I thought this was okay. Now, My problem with it is that, it now has green discolorations at the center whenever the screen display is black or dark I.e. When a website's color is black or dark or whenever I go to the search interface.
I am from the Philippines.
Please attend to this inquiry as promptly as possible. I'm sorry I have to send it here since I cannot see any email or inquiry page on the apple website. I also cannot reach the toll free number on my mobile phone.
Thank you very much.
<Serial Number Edited by Host>

You can find out how to get service for your iPad on this web page:
http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=Philippines&product=ipad
Regards.

What determine whether I see 'keep both' or 'skip/stop/replace' as options when moving files??

Recently I've rolled over the file numbers on my camera again, so moving new photos around often causes filename conflicts: 'An item named "_XXX1234.jpg" already exists in this location. Do you want to replace it with the one you're moving?"
What controls whether I see "Keep both files" as an option (where Finder just adds a 2 suffix to the filename of the newer item being added) vs "skip/stop/replace"?
When I'm trying to copy distinct new items with duplicate filenames, I want to use 'keep both files'; when I'm grabbing a mass of files, moving to a common storage place, and want only the new files to copy over, so that finder does the hard work of figuring out which ones are new/missing from the new folder, I want the option of 'skip' instead.

The option-click 'copy file' does not change the dialog box from just clicking and dragging without option--still only seeing the skip/stop/replace.
I do use iPhoto, but find the file structure does not follow my patterns of use, so do not let it organize the files--for those many, inevitable times when I want to access the images directly without having to export the images first. I also have Adobe Bridge, which has a file renaming feature. But I started seeing this option of 'keep both' recently--I think since my install of Mavericks when 10.9.3 came out, and determined it does something very helpful to me, but can't figure out how to make it show up consistently. For some things it would be nicer than always just making a new iPhoto library when the file numbers start over again.

When I drag an image over a clip to try and get picture in picture the options it gives me are only insert replace and delete not the picture in picture option how do i get the picture in picture option when i drag a picture over a clip

When I drag an image over a clip to try and get picture in picture the options it gives me are only insert replace and delete not the picture in picture option how do i get the picture in picture option when i drag a picture over a clip?

Go to this. http://help.apple.com/imovie/mac/10.0/#mova1aaa682b . It is the link to show you how to use picture in picture. I had this same problem not too long ago.

Repair or replace? If replace, HD now or not yet?

I have been happily doing semi-pro-level video for a variety of applications (nature scenes for a series of commercial "sorta music video" DVDs, documentary-like stuff, weddings, and anything else that comes my way) for seven years with my primary and beloved camera being a Canon XV2 (Japanese model #, but same as GL2 in the U.S.). Since I live in Japan and have no car, that camera is the right compromise between pro features and small size, and I was able to afford it - most stuff I do for free, so my budget is limited. I've had two intermittent problems with it (dirty heads symptoms when heads are not dirty, even just after repair, and an occasional "Eject the tape" demand), and have had a few repairs on it, but was not planning on getting new equipment for another couple years at least. But last week, five minutes before the beginning of a wedding, the zoom on it flaked out - probably an electronic problem. I swapped it with my second camera that was planned as unmanned and survived the wedding, but now I have a dilemma. First of all, I'm asking myself if I should put more money into repair of this camera (especially when I haven't been impressed with Canon's ability to solve my other problems!), or buy a new one. And if I buy a new one, should I just get another GL2/XV2, since it is what I am familiar with? (I was surprised to see that it is not only still being made, but it appears to be the #1 prosumer camera out there, even after over seven years on the market.) Or since I don't replace cameras often, would I be crazy in 2009 to buy a new camera that cannot do HD?
I have not studied the new HD phenomenom in depth, but my impression is that so far the manufacturers have not come up with a way to store HD that works well for prosumer-level editing in Premiere Pro. I assume the real pro cameras do something different, but as far as I can tell, in my price range I have to choose between HDV (compress like I would for a DVD before I even start editing? that doesn't sound right!) or AVCDV (even worse). I see some buzz about HDMI output direct to some external device, but not only are such devices pricey, but I haven't found any explanation of how I'm supposed to do that on a hike, for example (carry the storage device and a car battery in a backpack or something?). Diving with my camera would be even trickier (what all would I have to put in that underwater housing??). Also, it seems that there is not just one HD, but many different resolutions that are all called HD. Finally, when I look for HD cameras in the prosumer range, I just don't see anything - it's either consumer toys or $5000 monsters. So I had decided that HD isn't mature yet, and that DVDs will still be around for awhile before they are consumed by Blu-Ray, so I'll just keep shooting SD with my old cameras until the industry figures out what they're doing. But then my XV2 breaks...
Another issue of purchasing a different camera is the ripple effect. I use my XV2 on a tripod that balances just right (it doesn't have a sliding mount, so it needs to balance) and on a Steadicam JR sometimes. If I get an HD camera that has 3 CCDs of a decent size (I don't want to lose the good low lux ability of the XV2) and a good zoom lens (I use all 20X of the XV2's zoom on a regular basis), I'll probably need to buy a bigger tripod for starters. Then I don't know if the camera will be too heavy for my little Steadicam... or for my arm trying to hold the Steadicam with the camera and counterweight - I'm not a bodybuilder, but a 130 lb., 48-year-old woman. I suspect HD would also demand about 5 times as much computer as I have now... the list of potential dominos goes on.
I've never written to the Lounge before, but this seems like the right place to solicit opinions about the life expectancy of SD and DVD vs. the incoming HD and Blu-Ray generation, the wisdom of repairing vs. replacing (if I give the camera to Canon, they will probably charge me to look at it, even before they know what it would cost to get it fixed, and the other intermittent problems would still exist), and any other topics you feel are relevent. I have "champagne tastes on a beer budget", so I would love to get thoughts both from those of you doing pro work (my champagne tastes) and amateur (beer budget). Let's chat!

Thanks for your thoughts, Curt. By the way, kudos for the tutorial videos you made a few years back - they were a great help to me when I was learning PPro and related stuff (or was that back in the days before they put the word "Pro" on it - I can't remember). Anyway, they were well done.
Yesterday I did more internet research and discovered great news - my camera's failure is quite common (discussion here), and caused by only a failed zoom rocker switch (the rocker overrides the buttons on the handle and the LANC port, so it seems like a more fundamental problem). Someone also posted careful instructions and photos for disassembling the camera and replacing the zoom rocker unit (which is rumored to cost only $13 plus shipping in the U.S.). I don't yet know how I'll get the part here in Japan (where companies seem to try to prevent DIY), but I disconnected my rocker's cable for now, which enables me to use either the buttons or my Varizoom in the LANC port. What a relief! I was worried that the problem was the main circuit board of the camera, which, along with Canon's labor costs, might have been a painful bill for an old camera. But your vote of confidence in a seven-year-old camera's continued usefulness was encouraging enough that even if it hadn't been as simple as it turned out to be, I probably still would have sent it in for repair.
Thanks for your comments on HD as well. Just yesterday I ran across a great review of the XH-A1 and then read the specs - it does seem to be the closest thing to a "HD version of the GL2". But you gave me new information that wasn't obvious: that it can shoot in SD also. When I read the specs, I could see choices of different HD resolutions and frame speeds, but 720x480 29.97fps was not mentioned (I guess it's just not that interesting to people). So I thought I'd have to shoot in HDV and convert the video later to SD, which would surely been messier than native SD. I am currently working on a series of DVD products for which I will continue to shoot SD for a couple more years, so even if I had bought an HD camera, SD capability would be important to me.
So, are you happy with the quality of HDV? After having it pounded into me that it's a no-no to compress (very much, anyway) anything that will get edited later (whether it's photos, audio, or video), I couldn't believe my ears a few months ago when I first heard what HDV is - that the video is getting compressed to the same degree that it would be compressed for putting on a DVD (MPEG-2), before it even gets out of the camera! I ran the other way and decided that the manufacturers were simply desperate to please clueless consumers. But now I am seeing that even pros are using that format (imagine a puzzled look on my face). Do you think HDV is here to stay, or is it an interim measure until higher density tapes are invented or flash memory gets cheap enough to hold uncompressed or only lightly compressed (like DV-AVI level) video in the camera?

X230T - Broken Screen - Replacement Options?

Lenovo Thinkpad X230T (3437 CTO) As you can see, I had an accident. I bought this tablet just a few weeks ago for engineering school, and the screen is totally shattered. I contacted Lenovo about my 3 year warranty status, and how to go about repairing the machine, however they informed me that my $100 warranty does not cover accidents. They said it would be $750 to fix it, which isn't possible for me. I need to repair it myself. However, this leaves me with a few questions. The screen is a 12.5 inch multitouch display. I am not sure how the touch components and display components operate. Are they combined into a single unit, or is the screen display a seperate component? I have plugged the tablet into another moniter via DVI cable, and it is fully functional, INCLUDING THE TOUCH SCREEN CAPABILITIES! After some research I have found this replacement option: https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/IBM-Lenovo/THINKPAD~X230~TABLET~3437/ However, that model number is only 3437, not 3437-CTO. I'm not sure if that matters, but I don't believe so. Even the 220's appear to use the same screen technology. If I were to buy this screen and replace the broken one, would the touch screen capabilities still function? Would that component come with the unit I ordered, or would the already functioning touch screen remain seperate and intact? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This has been an extremely stressful few weeks, and this has added a huge punctuation mark to that. Thanks

rigatron wrote:
Lenovo Thinkpad X230T (3437 CTO) As you can see, I had an accident. I bought this tablet just a few weeks ago for engineering school, and the screen is totally shattered. I contacted Lenovo about my 3 year warranty status, and how to go about repairing the machine, however they informed me that my $100 warranty does not cover accidents. They said it would be $750 to fix it, which isn't possible for me. I need to repair it myself. However, this leaves me with a few questions. The screen is a 12.5 inch multitouch display. I am not sure how the touch components and display components operate. Are they combined into a single unit, or is the screen display a seperate component? I have plugged the tablet into another moniter via DVI cable, and it is fully functional, INCLUDING THE TOUCH SCREEN CAPABILITIES! After some research I have found this replacement option: https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/IBM-Lenovo/THINKPAD~X230~TABLET~3437/ However, that model number is only 3437, not 3437-CTO. I'm not sure if that matters, but I don't believe so. Even the 220's appear to use the same screen technology. If I were to buy this screen and replace the broken one, would the touch screen capabilities still function? Would that component come with the unit I ordered, or would the already functioning touch screen remain seperate and intact? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This has been an extremely stressful few weeks, and this has added a huge punctuation mark to that. ThanksThe replacement screens you found are $63 and $90 and Lenovo would charge you $750 for the job? Wow...They look like a very greedy company, if I add this to the ridiculous amount they charge to put 16GB RAM in a machine, compared to what you can get when buying from other vendor and doing the swap yourself...

Does Applecare cover damaged/cracked screens? Replacement options?

Is there a cost effective way to fix a cracked screen on iphone 4(16GB in contract ATT)?
Purchased June 2011 with additional Applecare(not Applecare +)
The options I've considered:
1. NEW
     buy new iphone 4 $549 8GB
     buy new iphone 4S $649 16GB
2. USED
     buy used iPhone 4 online
     *anywhere from $275-500 locally in Chicago
3. CLAIM
     Make claim under Home insurance(deductible applies $500)
4. Cancel contract woth current carrier and subsequently buy new iPhone4s with either VZ or Sprint
      *Early term applies plus cost of new phone(and loss of unlimited data)Estimate at $484
Thanks for any and all ideas--this would be the 2nd phone replaced this year!

Out-of-Warranty Service
If you own an iPhone that is ineligible for warranty service but is eligible for Out-of-Warranty (OOW) Service, Apple will service your iPhone for the Out-of-Warranty Service fee listed below.
iPhone model
Out-of-Warranty Service
iPhone 4S
$199
iPhone 4, iPhone 3GS,
iPhone 3G, Original iPhone
$149
A $6.95 shipping fee will be added if you arrange service online or by calling Apple Technical Support. All fees are in U.S. dollars and are subject to local tax. When setting up out-of-warranty service, Apple will request credit card pre-authorization for the maximum service fee listed above. This amount will be deducted from your credit limit. The final service fee we charge will be determined during testing and may be less than the service fee listed above.Certain damage is ineligible for out-of-warranty service, including catastrophic damage, such as the device separating into multiple pieces, and inoperability caused by unauthorized modifications. However, an iPhone that has failed due to contact with liquid may be eligible for out-of-warranty service.Apple reserves the right to determine whether or not your iPhone is eligible for Out-of-Warranty service. iPhones that are repaired or replaced have a 90-day limited hardware warranty or assume the remainder of your standard warranty or AppleCare service contract coverage, whichever is longer. Please see Apple's Repair Terms And Conditions for further details.
http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=United_States&product=ipho ne

"New Project" choose option & when choose new, "Electric Guitar" -nothing!

Hi, Please would someone help me figure this GB preview/problem out?!
GB was fine for a few months, new computer etc but then...
here it is:
One day when I opened GB, i selected 'electric guitar' icon option in the 'new project' section where you can choose 'software instrument',
'real instrument' and 'electric guitar' options
to start the project off with, clicked 'choose' and nothing happened.
So i chose a normal one and went in and tried to get up a 'new track' and selected 'electric guitar' from there, but nothing. No amps or pedals anywhere in the right hand list section. Normal/software tracks opened and worked ok.
Now there are no icons/options in the 'new project' window,
at all!
It's dark grey - but if i double click on the 'new project' button on left list,
it brings up a basic style project name/signature/tempo etc window and then when it opens - does with software track.
So if i choose 'new track' from Track menu and select 'electric guitar' from the drop down preview tab thing w pictures like the preview thing used to be on the 'new project' window used to have, it doesn't do anything 'cept bring up the keyboard...
All the 'magic' and 'learn to play' etc options come up with preview choice/options when clicked but not 'New Project'.
Any ideas anyone?! This is what i've tried so far:
1. i've deleted garageband plists except the one that says "com.apple.garageband.LSSharedFileList.plist" cus i don't know what that one is exactly -
Is it safe to delete it?!
2. repaired permissions
3. Thought about other apps that might be causing probs - uninstalled a Guru drum thing -still no luck-
4. in the library and i can't find 'electric guitar' folder
in any of the application support folders...
5. and wondered - I installed a retail copy of Logic Express 8
so i thought perhaps that was something to do with it...
can't remember if that was around the same time - maybe - but
it's so difficult to use and i'm learning it o so slowly - i really need my faithful ole GB to work
in the meantime!!
Would appreciate any info/ similar experiences, solutions etc,
before i resort to a GB re-install from disc
(if that's possible from the ones that came with the computer, perhaps...???)
Thanks in advance for helping a girl with a guitar
who doesn't want to **** her neighbours off....

likeawave wrote:
I installed a retail copy of Logic Express 8
http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/GBFAQ.html#missingtemplates
(Let the page FULLY load. The link to your answer is at the top of your screen)

Does anyone think that apple do not have any confidence in their products by only giving a 12 warranty repair or replace rather than a 1 year guarantee?

I recently got an iphone 4 through my network provider after 4 days of having the product i started to experience problems. My iphone 4 would start calling people in my contacts without me even touching the phone, at first it was funny but people were not laughing when it was calling them through the night and in the early hours of the morning. My Network provider sent me a new i phone 4 and collected the faulty one, now the newly replaced iphone 4 after 1 week developed a problem with the camera, the shutter will not open and i cannot use video or take pictures. I contacted my network provider who have now referred me to apple who say they have a 12 month warranty in place for a repair or replace service, not a 1 year guarantee which makes me think apple have NO confidence in this product at all. I spoke with apple on the phone and they advised me to go into my local store and they will repair the phone, I advised i do not want the phone repaired as this could cause problems later down the line with the phone itself, but they would not budge saying they would only repair the phone and if worst came to the worst and the phone could not be repaired they would replace the phone. Because i could not get anywhere on the apple customer service telephone line i was put onto another operator who actually said to me on the phone that apple do not like the phones being opened up as this could cause problems later down the line with the phone. Now i had said this to his colleague earlier on the telephone, so if this can cause problems later down the line which he confirmed with me, why are apple not replacing the customers mobile phones instead of repairing them if they know that this can cause a problem with the phone in later life. Me personally am glad i got my phone from a network provider and did not pay £400 - £550 on the iphone 4 as i will be stuck with a refurbished phone now and not a new product this phone is only 1 week old. I would advise everyone considering an apple product to seriously consider the implications of buying an apple product, as it seems to me even apple do not have enough confidence in their product with only giving out a 12 month warranty and not a guarantee. The iphone 4 is a great idea but not a reliable one that will last you for years down the line. I couldn't wait to get my iphone 4, now all it gives me is problems. My previous phone was a Sony Ericcson W995 i have had the phone for 2 years 6 months now with no faults and no problems and my partner also has had the same phone for the same amount of time with no problems. Are new mobile phones not built to last anymore, and if so why such the high cost to the consumer? This is my first apple product my partner also has an iphone 4 and experiencing the same problems as me and i feel really disappointed and let down, where did all the customers rights go?
Diane Gallacher

A 12 month warranty and a year 1 year warranty are the same correct, but a 1 year warranty and a 1 year guarantee are totally different. I sell products in work which have a 1 year guarantee and a 9 years warranty, guarantee means if anything goes wrong with the product in the first year you will get a straight replacement. Warranty means the product will depreciate in value each year. If you spend £1000 on an item which has 10 years cover divide £1000 by 10 years and your product is depreciating in value each year by £100. so if you had a problem after 2 years and were outwith your guarantee you item would be worth £800 which the manufacturer will give you a credit note so you can purchase an item up to the value of £800 or you can put another £200 to it yourself to either get the same product or a product at the same value you purchased your first item. Guarantee and warranty are 2 totally different covers.
Is there also not a cover in the uk on all electrical products for a 5 year term no matter what the product? this one i am unsure of but have been told this is the case.

I am trying to configure my SCXI-1540 card for excitation voltage and frequency using MAX - but it is not giving me that option when I click on the card and then properties, am I looking in the wrong place?

I am trying to configure my SCXI-1540 w/1315 card for excitation voltage and frequency using MAX - but it is not giving me that option when I click on the card and then properties, am I looking in the wrong place?
I have LabVIEW Express 7.0 Professional - SCXI-1000 Chassiss - along with SCXI-1112, and SCXI 1520/1314 - cable to the PCI-6052E is attached to the 1520 card.
MAX says it recognizes all the cards in the chassiss.

Jeremy, Thanks for the reply.
I tried to set up the system as DAQmx.
I had MAX auto-detect the set-up - and it recognized all the cards - but did not select the 1315 accessory on the 1540 card - I had to do that manually - but in the configuration section I would select the accessory and it would deselect itself. I had to get out of the set-up and then right click on the 1540 card and click on the "Accessories" tab and select the 1315 terminal block that way.
It didn't seem right that the system should behave that way, but I pressed onward.
I then tried to create a new DAQmx Task
When I create new DAQmx task and then click on Analog Input no "Position" Tab appears for me to select, all I get are:
Analog>>Voltage
Analog>>Temperature
Ana
log>>Strain
Analog>>Current
Analog>>Resistance
Analog>>Frequency
Analog>>Custom Voltage with Excitation
Do you think there might be something wrong with either my hardware or perhaps my configuration that is not allowing it to recognize the 1540/1315 in DAQmx?
I had included the system report of what programs I am using, etc. as attached file nireport.txt
After the DAQmx did not work I tried installing everything as Traditional DAQ and it did let me set-up the 1540 Card with Excitation Voltage and Frequency and gain - I then went in to the VI that I had built and tried to use the Express DAQ Assisant to read the channel that I am connected to on the 1315/1540 - when I try to use DAQ Assistant it gives me an error saying that "Device not available in NI-DAQmx. It is possible that the device is being use by traditional NI-DAQ"
Which I guess it is since both configurations are now set-up in MAX.
I would PREFER to use the DAQmx set-up, but I am confused as to WHY it won
't come up with
Analog input>>POSITION>>LVDT
When I try to create a new DAQmx task.
Thanks for the help so far! As you can probably tell I am new at this.
Ryan
Attachments:
nireport.txt ‏2 KB

Can I get technical support (repair or replacement) under warranty for my iPhone 5 in Russia?

Can I get technical support (repair or replacement) under warranty for my iPhone 5 in Russia?
<Personal Information Edited by Host>

http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=United_Kingdom&product=iph one
Pick your Country from the country drop down menu for all your
service options ( there is also a language choice )

Why doesn't the replace option of JavaScript's window.open method work with FireFox 3 or 4?

The photo html files on the Fanac Fan History project's website are now setup to be displayed properly when JavaScript is disabled and reformatted by a php script when JavaScript is enabled. The reformatting adds some features and positions each photo's caption and credits based on the width of the photo and the browser's page width. This worked well except that when a photo page was accessed the browser's back button wouldn't work properly. This was because I had failed to include the replace option in my windows.open statement. The statement now reads fileWindow = window.open(fileURL, "_self", "", true); and this has cured the problem with IE and the other browsers but it still doesn't work with FireFox.
PS: You need to add "Always" to "This happened".

We're sorry to hear that your Firefox seems to be crashing when you open it. Please perform the following steps to give us a crash report ID that helps us find out more about the cause of the crash.
#Press the following shortcut to get a Run window: [Windows] + [R]. This should bring up a window that contains a text field.
#In that text field, enter %APPDATA% and press Enter. An explorer window should open.
#From that explorer window, double-click on the ''Mozilla'' folder, then double-click on ''Firefox'' and then on ''Crash reports''. Double-click on ''submitted''.
#Now, you should see a list of files that contain reports. Go to ''View'' > ''Arrange Icons by'' > ''Modified'' to get the most recent files at the top of the window.
#Open the most recent 5 files with a text editor and copy the IDs.
#Paste each ID with '''bp-''' into the reply window on the forums.
Thanks in advance!
You can find more information and troubleshooting steps in the [[Firefox crashes]] article.

No OS dialogue box option when I save

Hello,
I have been using CS4 for a few months now and I like except I can't figure out how to get the OS dialogue box option when I go to save (do a lot of image replacing and it is a pain with being able to view and navigate throuhout my machine). I have checked both my system preferences and the Photoshop preferences and nothing seems to mention this. Did Adobe get rid of that feature in PhotoShop or am I just missing the solution?
Thanks in advance

Have You hit that button?

Database Management Copy Data - Replace Option

Can anyone provide info on how this works? we are using 9.2.1
When using database management to copy data, when using the replace option, even if we only pick a few accounts to copy, it is erasing all data in the Target scenario. Does the replace option clear all data by default before copying in the selected data?
we tried to use the Merge option but apparently that doesn't always work for some reason-could be user error. not sure.
Thanks
Wags

Hey Wags- this is expected functionality of the Replace method. It clears all custom/account data for the load entity/year/period combo prior to do the load. For example, if there is P&L data in entity A in Jan 2010 and you load $500 to it in a Sales account, all the rest of the P&L data will be cleared and you'll just have $500 in the Sales account.
Here's stuff from the guide:
Several options are available for loading data into an application. You can merge, replace, or
accumulate the data into the application. You select one of these options for each load process.
Note:
You cannot load calculated data into an application.
Merge
Select this option to overwrite the data in the application with the data from the file.
For each unique point of view that exists in the data file and in the application, the value in the
data file overwrites the data in the application.
Note:
If you have multiple values in the file for the same point of view, the system loads only the value
for the last entry.
If you select the Accumulate Within File option in conjunction with the Merge option, the system
adds all values for the same point of view in the data file, and overwrites the data in the application
with the total.
For each unique point of view that is in the data file but does not have a value in the application,
the value from the data file is loaded into the application.
Replace
For each unique combination of scenario, year, period, entity, and value in the data file, the
system first clears all corresponding values from the application, then loads the value from the
data file.
Note:
If you have multiple values in the file for the same unique combination of dimensions, the system
loads only the value for the last entry.
If you select the Accumulate Within File option in conjunction with the Replace option, the
system clears the value from the application, adds all values for the same point of view in the
data file, and loads the total.
You can achieve the same result as using the Replace option with the Accumulate Within File
option by using the Database Management module. You can organize the data in the file into
groups based on Scenario, Year, Entity, Value, and Period.
Use the Clear Data tab in the Database Management module to clear each unique combination
of these dimensions, selecting all accounts including system accounts. Enter the data manually
in a data grid, or load or copy the data into the application using the Merge or Accumulate load
options. When you perform the Clear operation for a period in a subcube, data, cell text, and
line item detail are cleared, but cell attachments are not cleared.
Note:
You may need to create several small files to load a data file using the Replace mode, especially
if the data is very large or if the file contains ownership data. An error message is displayed if the
file is too large when you try to load it.
Replace by Security
This option enables you to perform a data load in Replace mode even if you do not have access
to all accounts. When you perform the Clear operation for a period in a subcube, only the cells
to which you have access are cleared. Data, cell text, and line item detail are cleared, but cell
attachments are not cleared.
Accumulate
For each unique point of view that exists in the data file and in the application, the value from
the load file is added to the value in the application.
Note:
Data for system accounts is not accumulated.
Accumulate Within File
You can use the Accumulate Within File option in conjunction with the Merge and Replace
options. This option accumulates the data in the file first and loads the totals into the application
based on the load option selected.
File Contains Ownership Data
If the file contains ownership data, you must indicate this by selecting File Contains Ownership
Data. If you do not select this option and the data file contains ownership or shares information,
an error occurs when you load the file.

Repair vs replace option when MBR is probably bad?

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