Repeater vs Router

I just bought a Wireless G Broadband Router 2.4 ghz with speed booster. My second computer is no more then 35 feet away. 2 walls and a window. I am getting a very low singal and only 11 mz. VERY SLOW.
Do I need a "repeater" or a "booster"? Does the repeater just expand the network or make it faster? Please advise. Thanks. Steve

well you can go for WRE54Gv3 range expander, however, try tweaking the wireless settings on the router... logon to router's setup page and try changing wireless channel to 11, click on the advanced wireless settings and try reducing beacon interval to 50, fragmentation and RTS threshold to 2304....also try upgrading latest firmware on the router...let me know the results

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WAP4410N - Understanding roaming, WDS, repeater, bridge

Router: Cisco WRVS4400N secured with WPA2
WAP: Cisco WAP4410N
Router was working well but signal too weak in distant rooms.
So, purchased a WAP4410N but am unsure about AP configuration. From reading the docs, I understand these to be the relevant choices:
1) Access Point -- Wired connection through built-in Ethernet port. (Not Desired)
2) Wireless WDS Repeater
3) Wireless Client / Repeater (What is difference from WDS Repeater?)
4) Wireless WDS Bridge
Desired Result:
Simply extend the network. As a laptop is carried from room to room, laptop should switch to the strongest signal seamlessly, without user doing anything manually. No matter where I am, laptop should see entire network. Also, I prefer that the WAP not require a wired Ethernet connection (that is, I would like the WAP to receive/repeat the router's wireless signal No Ethernet Cable Required).
1. Which of the above 4 settings is best for achieving desired outcome?
2. What should the SSID be on the WAP? Same as on the router?
3. Should both the router and WAP be on the same channel? (I suspect not, but included docs sound like they should be..?)
4. Should both the router and the WAP have the same wireless security setting (WPA2) and passphrase?
5. On the router, under the Wireless menu --> WDS submenu there is a checkbox: "Allow wireless signal to be repeated by a repeater". I assume this must be checked?
6. I understand that Microsoft's built-in Wireless Zero Configuration service does not disambiguate APs which share the same SSID and may not always roam with the strongest signal.*** We need to move from area to area and seamlessly retain the network signal. Is this still a problem in Windows7? Is there a workaround for XP's WZC deficiencies?
Is there anything else I should know?
*** http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/tutorials/article.php/3628576

Hello bcmitsupport,
I am glad to hear you got it working. I did notice though that you said the WAP4410N was wired. If the repeater is working correctly you should not have to have it wired.
If you do have the option of using a wired connection then I would recommend the following-
AP mode is AP
Same SSID
Same Security
Different wireless channel (1, 6, 11 are the non overlap channels)
This provides the strongest signal and speed between both wireless points.
If you are interested in trying the repeater mode still I recommend the following-
AP mode is WDS repeater
Same SSID
Same Security
Same wireless channel
On the router enable 'allow this signal to be repeated'
Make sure you are using both wireless MAC addresses for the wireless *NOTE: the MAC listed on the router is not always the wireless MAC. this can be found in the wireless section of both devices.
Here is the key part, if you are using both as a repeater and the AP is wired, you will know it is working when your network goes down. This is because the AP is repeating the signal back to the router over the wire and getting it repeated back out over the wireless until the network goes down.
To further answer your orginal question-
WDS mode provides a better connection as both devices are 'aware' of each other and is more of a switched connection. When using client/repeater, the AP is actually acting like a client to the orginal signal and simply relaying messages across as if it was from the AP.
WDS bridge is simply a way to configure a wireless bridge. A bridge is not designed for clients to connect wirelessly but to create a 'wireless cable' so you can connect your wired computer wirelessly.
Ultimately the best connection is a wired one as it does not diminish the signal. A repeater has half the range and half the speed as it has to repeat both in and out.

Value in repeating table

Good day, colleagues. I have InfoPath form the "Waybill car." In a separate cell indicates the initial meter reading at the time of receiving shift. In repeating table set field: Route (text), Mileage (in this field is the final meter reading at
the place of arrival, km) distance. During the shift the number of routes can be from 5 to 20. Need to adjust the form to automatically calculate the range (distance) for each route in a separate field.
Example:
Initial indications: 310 km.
Repeating Table: Route:
Object 1 Mileage: 315 Distance, km: 5.
Object2 Mileage: 323 Distance, km 8 ....
How can I insert in the "distance" from the previous field "Mileage"?

Hi ,
According to your description, my understanding is that you want to get the field “distance” value based on the previous field "Mileage" in the repeating table of InfoPath.
For achieving your demand, you need to create the fields “Initial indications (km)” with Number type, “Mileage (km)” with Number type in the repeating table ,”
Distance (km)” with Number type in the repeating table.
Then you can create a rule as below on the Mileage (km) field:
Condition: Mileage (km) is not blank
Action: Set a field’s value : Distance (km) = Mileage (km) - Initial indications (km)
Thanks,
Eric
Forum Support
Please remember to mark the replies as answers if they help and unmark them if they provide no help. If you have feedback for TechNet Subscriber Support,
contact [email protected]
Eric Tao
TechNet Community Support

SAP ROUTER SYSTEM

Dear All,
PC on which sap router software is installed to access sap remotely is corrupted. we want to format that Pc.
is it necessary to communicate SAP before formatting.
Also tell me steps to configure router software after formatting.
rgds

Make sure you give the same hostname to the router system as SAP has already registered your router at :
http://service.sap.com/saprouter-sncadd
Once you have repeated the router installation, make sure you repeat the certificate requesting and import through service mearketplace for the SNC.
http://service.sap.com/~form/sapnet?_SHORTKEY=01100035870000044248&_SCENARIO=01100035870000000202&_OBJECT=011000358700003588172003E
And once its completed, make sure you test the connection with SAP.
Regards,
Jazz

WRE54G not working with D-Link DIR-655

After having 2 Linksys WRT310N units fail within 14 months, I was given a D-Link DIR-655 to use for my home network. When I originally purchased the WRE-54G for use with the 310N, the signal strength as indicated on a Tivo and PS3 went from 20%-40% range to 70%-85%. These two components are approximately 30 ft horizontally, and 20 ft down vertically from the router.
Upon replacing the router with the DIR-655, both of these units are again registering signal of 20%-40%, as if the WRE-54G is not functioning, and/or the TiVo and PS3 are getting their wireless signal directly from the DIR-655.
I can access the WRE-54G's web interface, can ping it, can see it as active in the DIR-655's interface, and have two solid blue lights. Everything has been powered down and reset multiple times. I have the same issue whether or not the WRE-54G sits inside or outside my DHCP range.
How can I determine if these components are getting signal from the router through the WRE-54G or if they are getting the signal directly from the router and bypassing the WRE-54G, and is there a way to "force" these components to take signal from the WRE-54G?

Hello. Is the D-link an N router? The WRE doesn't really work well with N routers. The ppl that have say that security must be disabled. I think I have read posts that got this working, though. I'm wondering if the WRE is physically on the edge of your signal strength, e.g. if you got the WRE closer to the router it would work better. The only thing that is unusual is that you said you have two solid blue lights. The activity light should be blinking blue. So I guess I don't think the WRE is really doing anything right now, though you have all the indications except for increased signal strength.
As far as forcing the equipment to connect, you'd just have to set up static IP's and say that the WRE IP addy was the gateway, not your router. But I don't think that is the problem as WIFI will connect to the stronger signal if it is present. I just don't think the WRE is repeating the router signal.
Edit: Did a search. See if this post helps:
http://forums.linksysbycisco.com/linksys/board/message?board.id=Range_Expanders&message.id=2611&query.id=16490#M2611
Message Edited by Luckydog on 06-19-2009 03:07 PM

Wi-fi failure and battery problems started at the same time

I can't get the wi-fi to connect to any network. It stopped working a couple of days ago. I have tried with my own wireless network at home and several other networks as well.
I have tried the following:
*Settings->General->Reset->Reset Network Settings
*Restore to Factory Settings
*Tried my network without security and with WPA (and yes I know the password)
*With and without MAC-address filter in Router, added the iPods MAC-address (called Wi-Fi Address in the iPod)
*Changed channel for my Wi-fi network
*Tried with and without my wi-fi repeater
*My router is broadcasting the SSID
*Tried to join the network when it is found by the iPod, with 1 as strenght but then I get "Could not join the network"
*Tried to add the network as other network, typing in the SSID the it says that it can't find the network.
I have tried a mix of the above and as I stated above I have also tried other networks that it has been able to join without problems before.
Some info:
iPod Touch 16 GB Model MA627ZG
Version 2.2.1 (5H11)
Purchased in December 2007.
Router: Netgear DG834GT
Firmware: V1.02.04
Wireless Repeater D-link DWL-G710
At the same time as this started my battery started to get drained very quickly. 2 hours of listening to an audio book and the battery is empty again.
I have wi-fi off
Auto brightness off
Fetch new data off
EQ off
The iPod gets very hot when attached to my computer via USB to get battery charged and I don't have it in a case.

I am having excatly same problem. It started about two days ago, but I did not update or installed anything just before this issue came up. It looks like it came from nowhere.
It feels like the touch is constantly trying to connect to wifi, even if it is sleeping and even if the wifi is off! That would explain the very short battery life.
I have tried to update to 2.2.1. It did not help. I have tried to restore both to 2.2 (which was on when this issue came up) and both to 2.2.1.
I tried to revert to older firmware 7.3.2 on my airport express. But it it did not seem to make any difference. My macbook is still seeing the wifi as well as before, so it should not be a router problem.
as well, to comment on ipod being connected to turned off/hibernated computer. it does not make any difference whether it is connected to it or not. Computer does not suck the energy from the ipod. It can only charge it. So whether it is connected or not, the ipod should discharge slowly, which it does not in our case.

WRE54G doesn't work

Can't get my new WRE54G to work with my WRT54G router. Both items are brand new, so I assume they are the latest versions/firmware. Router works fine. I've set up the expander according to all instructions, using a wired connection to router for setup, using same SSID as router, and identical subnet mask and gateway IP. Expander shows 2 blue lights and when I run cmd "ping 192.168.1.240" I get 4 replies, no problem. But the danged thing has zero effect on my wireless signal strength, and the "activity" light doesn't flash when accessing Internet wirelessly. I can only conclude that it's doing absolutely nothing. I called tech support to ask how to tell if I'm getting any signal from the expander (vs. the router) and the guy said no way to tell because both devices must have same SSID. How do I get this infernal device to work? I've reset and re-configged until I'm hypoxic. (PS-WEP is disabled). (PPS--the ping operation I mentioned above was done from my desktop PC which is connected via Ethernet to the router. I'm using my wireless Mac laptop to check signal strength, but don't know how to ping from the Mac.) PPPS--After further reading, I see others have had trouble connecting via Mac. Perhaps WRE54G is in fact working, but not communicating with the Mac. Suggestions? Message Edited by jesmed on 05-02-2008 05:30 PM Message Edited by jesmed on 05-02-2008 06:13 PM
Message Edited by jesmed on 05-02-2008 07:04 PM

That kinda sucks. You might consider getting a wireless USB adapter for the PC tethered to your router. Then you could position the RE so that it would service the desktop. Then place your router closer to the iBook and operate wirelessly. I've seen Apple posts before but don't remember if they got them working or not. Good Luck.
Oh, reading closer, why can't you connect the iBook wirelessly with the static IP? Also, who said that the RE doesn't do DHCP? That's what it is doing on the PC side. The RE just repeats the router signal.
Did you read this post:
http://forums.linksys.com/linksys/board/message?board.id=Range_Expanders&message.id=967&query.id=557...
Message Edited by Luckydog on 05-03-2008 05:54 PM
Message Edited by Luckydog on 05-03-2008 06:00 PM
Message Edited by Luckydog on 05-03-2008 06:03 PM
Message Edited by Luckydog on 05-03-2008 06:48 PM
Message Edited by Luckydog on 05-04-2008 08:35 AM

WRT610N loosing connection

Hi there
I have a WRT610N and have just connected a TP-link wireless extender via the WPS button.
It seems all perfect and I can only see one network (the WRT610N)
BUT
After connecting the extender it seems that the WRT610N is loosing the connection to the internet quit often.
Does anyone have an idea what can cause this. ?

It is only the wireless connection that is lost.
I have just checked and both the repeater and router are using the same channel and have the same name.
My guess is the repeater is adapting all settings including the channel when using the WPS function.
I will try if I can move the used channel on one of them.
But right now I have forgot the password on the router.

WRT54G as a base station in a wireless distribution system

I'd like to have my WRT54G connected to my DSL modem and in another part of the house use a repeater capable router to connect an ethernet capable only device to my network. Will that work? Any tips on getting it done?

Hi you can check the link below. It may give you answers
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=8970793be6034830941854eb8b66b5a7_4194.xml&pid=80&r...
It says there how you can set WAP as wless bridge which means connecting 1 entire wless network to another 1 whole wired connection.
This connection only works with WAP54G to WAP54G or WRT54G.

RE 2000 v2

RE 2000 v2 is the BEST REPEATER ...It is MUCH MUTCH BETTER Than RE 1000 ...YOU can choose a different SSID with a new password and the repeater will work at the same time with ure new ssid and the router ssid (5GHz and 2.4GHz) at the same time , so devices with 2.4GHz only can receive the signal from the repeater with the same 5G or 2G SSID ...AMAZING ...It s a great product from cisco and its work WITH NO PROBLEMS ...this product is far away from the old re1000...BUT BE SURE IT IS RE2000 V2

Dear
the v2 is different because you can for example choose an ssid for ure 2.4G and the 5g will be automatically configured with the same ssid of the router ..than you can benefit from 2 networks. v2 works better with a dual band router . you ca also change the 2,4g and 5g in the router to get 3 networks from the same source. with re1000 (the bad one ) and re2000 you cannot because it is the same ssid for the repeater and router, mean lots of problems with devices ( Apple TV , Playstation , Phone ...)
v2 is good because it let you create for one of your network 2,4 or 5 another ssid so - for example- u choose to connect the ipad to the 5G net and old computers to 2.4G

Increasing Range in WRT310N

I've been using the WRT310N and noticed that the range is quite poor--I've noticed this in two different houses.
Any suggestions for improving the range? How about changing the advanced settings? What to change them to?
I've tried using an old repeater but it is a G repeater so it seems to actually make things worse i.e. a remote device will work slightly better with an unrepeated N signal than a repeated G (router is a in mixed mode).
I've currently got the router set to the 40 MHz radio band.
Thanks for any help.

Seems as if they have labeled those fields pretty confusing on the v1 router. Make sure you have the latest firmware...
The WRT310N uses only the 2.4 GHz band. There are 11-13 channels on that band with different frequencies.
20 MHz is the standard width of a single channel.
In 40 MHz mode it uses two channels at the same time: the standard channel and the additional wide channel.
However, as I wrote before, 40 MHz, i.e. two channels occupy pretty much 2/3 of the total 2.4 GHz band (only channels 1, 6 and 11 don't overlap). This means you get a lot of interference with 40 MHz bandwidth in places where you have a lot of other access points.
Try 20 MHz with different standard channels or use try "Auto". See if it makes a difference.

Macbook refuses to use 802.11n?

I have an 802.11n router, running in MIMO mode with WPA2/AES encryption, with only two machines attempting to connect to it. Both are running OSX 10.6.5:
My macbook air 1.6GHz (December 2010). This machine connects perfectly as 802.11n, every time.
My wife's 2GHz Macbook 2,1 (I think somewhere around mid-2007 manufacture). This machine has the n extension installed (I can't recall installing it, but network utility shows it as 802.11 a/b/g/n). Whenever I attempt to connect with this machine, connection initially fails, but it eventually connects as an 802.11g connection (as shown by option-clicking on the network icon). When it does connect - not very well - it slows the connection of the macbook air way down.
I'm guessing that if I could force my wife's machine to connect in n mode, everything would be OK. Does anyone have any suggestions?
What I've tried so far:
.deleting and re-enabling the wireless drivers in the network preferences panel
.making a new network location
.deleting all relevant plists
.repairing disk permissions
Relevant background information:
.the 'n' router only supports channels 1-12 (i.e. we can't force n by using non-g channels)
.this network is in a crowded apartment block - I can see around a dozen other networks in istumbler
.the router is using directional paired (MIMO) antennas to bounce the signal from one apartment to another off an adjoining building. Of course, this could in general be problematic; but the received signal strength is OK - not good - according to both istumbler and a separate linux metering program. And the MBA works perfectly well in the same locations.
.it's using channel 1; there are two g networks in the building also using channel 1, but according to istumbler, our signal is strongest of the three in the 'receiving' apartment (in channels 6 and 11, there are other stronger signals, so 1 is the only rational choice).
.the router is running in mixed, not greenfields, mode
.although the MB is only able to connect in g mode, istumbler on the MB still shows it as an 'n' network
.we have never encountered any previous wifi problems with the MB (but this is the first time we've tried to connect it to an n router)
.and just to repeat, the router is using WPA2/AES encryption, which should be compatible with 802.11n
TIA for any help

SOLVED!
Who in the world would have guessed??
Trendnet support provided this information:
<<Note: Due to chipset compatibility issues, if you choose WEP, WPA or WPA2-TKIP encryption this device may operate in Legacy Wireless mode (802.11b/g). You may not get 802.11n performance as these forms of encryption are not supported by the 802.11n specification. >>
I had used WPS2-TKIP, just by accident. I changed it to Authentication WPA-Auto and Cypher type auto, and now it works on 802.11n, as well as g!! Even on my Powerbook G3 and HP laptop.
Who would have guessed?

Ahhh, what is it called and does it exist? Wireless extender with ethernet port)

Almost all extenders have an Ethernet port - so the Wi-Fi signal is boosted from your router to the device and then how you connect to it is up to you, either by the LAN port on it (which could be connected to a cheap switch) or by Wi-Fi from it's enhanced signal.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300Mbps-Wireless-N-802-11-AP-Wifi-Repeater-Range-Router-Extender-Booster-U...Something like this would do the trick (although this version doesn't have pass-through for the socket)

Hi all,
Total brain-fade today (not a lot of sleep with heavily pregnant wife). I'm trying to find something to become a solution to the below problem.
I have internet in main house, I need to be able to plug something in next door but by ethernet only. I can't use a powerline as it's not on the same circuit, so, i'm looking for a wireless extender that also has an ethernet port (or two) in the base of said wireless extender?
Does such a thing exist as i'm sure i've seen this before but can't remember what the heck it was called etc.
Muchos thanks in advance you lovely people.
This topic first appeared in the Spiceworks Community

Can I connect a 5th gen extreme as a bridge/repeater to a non-apple router without an ethernet cable connection? How?

I currently have a motorola surfboard cable modem/router (dual N) that works for all our wireless devices (PCs and MACBOOK) except that our ipad 2 which drops video streaming in the livingroom (works great in the office and bedroom). I'm hoping to purchase a new 5th gen airport extreme and set it up in the living room for the ipad 2 as a repeater/bridge (I think that is the same function) but don't want to have a ethernet cable connecting the motorola to the airport extreme. Is it possible? How? Since the ipad 2 works in other rooms, I don't think it is the ipad 2.

Sorry, but Apple products would not be compatible with your Motorola modem/router using wireless only.
If you need to do this using wireless only, you might want to check with your Internet service provider to see if they have a Motorola product that would be compatible for the purpose that you need.
If you are able to permanently connect the AirPort Extreme to the Motorola modem/router using a wired Ethernet connection, the AirPort Extreme could be configured to provide more wireless coverage that way.

My iPod Touch was not connecting to my Airport Express router (which was "extending" a network as a WDS repeater) -- SOLVED!

My problem was this. I have a large apartment with concrete walls, so just one wireless router would not work. I used apple Airport routers and used one of them (an airport extreme) to create my wireless network, and a number of other ones -- airport expresses -- to "extend" the network.
That's all great, but I found that a couple of my devices -- mainly my iPod Touch -- would refuse to connect to the repeater airport express routers -- it only wanted to connect to the main Airport Extreme router, not the satellite guys.
Finally I solved the problem. It had to do with how the wireless network's configuration for "Radio" setting was set regarding 802/11 b/g, and the dual-band ability of the Extreme. Below is the description of how I fixed it.
======SOLUTION THAT I POSTED======
I've pretty much solved this problem. I do not FULLY understand why, but now I can have my iPod touch (and I am hoping my kindle) attach correctly to the satellite/repeater airport express. Here is what I did:
I did two configuration changes to my central hub airport extreme router (i.e., the one that my other routers were merely configured to "extend.") I realize now that these are both configurations that must be done at that central router, and the repeater routers then simply mimic or reflect accordingly.
-- First, I used the most recent Airport Utility (v6.0) and clicked on my main router (which, crucially, is an airport extreme that has dual band 802.11, both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.)
-- In the airport utility, I clicked on that Extreme router and then in its funky popup window, clicked Edit.
-- Clicked the tab called Wireless.
-- Clicked on Wireless Options button.
-- the first config change I made on that page was to change the Radio Mode setting to "802.11a/n - 802.11 b/g."
What nobody really tells you is that that hyphenated choice means that the 5GHz band will use the first of those two (namely, a and n, in other words the strong modern N standard will be used on this band ONLY) ... while the 2.4GHZ band will use only the second of those two, b/g, in other words, the devices that only can use that older weaker standard.
So, it's kind of a segregation. I'm telling it "No, don't let the 2.4 ghz band try to handle traffic using N. That band will just take care of the old crappy clients."
-- the second config change that I made on that page was to check the check box to make a totally separate wireless network name for the 5GHZ band. Further segregating things. When I tried my solution without this additional step, my problem did not fix itself, though I don't fully see why.
As I said, a few questions remain in my head, but the darn thing works, so I'm happy. Among many other questions... are those airport expresses dual-band too? I didn't think they were but somehow they are repeating this dual-band strategy? Whatever. it works.
BY THE WAY -- I recommend using the Apple question/answer board on StackExchange to get Apple-related answers. It is at http://apple.stackexchange.com/

To demonstrate, here's a screenshot from the Airport Utility on the iPod Touch in close proximity to the Express, still connected to the Extreme :

Repeater vs Router

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