Replace the North Bridge fan Heatsink

Tought the MEGA PC isnt quiet enough, seems to be the North Brige fan who always goes on the same speed. One tougth is the following;
Is a Zalman North Bridge Heatsink good enough to replace the North Bridge fan on a MEGA PC? It seems to be enougt height if you skip the idea of a secondary IDE drive. Or are there some better 3rd party noise killer fans available for the North Bridge?
Your opinions pleese?

Wonkanobody writes:
your using onboard vga thats in that chip so it really needs active cooling
I also have this noise complaint, and I use a separate AGP card (ATI AIW 9000). the Video card is already rather quite.
Does this mean I can easily remove the fan when I do not use on-board VGA. Does the chip really need a fan?

Similar Messages

  • KT4 Ultra MB: Replacing the AGP 8X North Bridge Fan

    Opened a friend's PC this afternoon to add an ethernet card and 1Gb memory and unsurprisingly found it was dust-bound.  Whilst attemtping to clean the north bridge fan (45mm AGP 8X) I noticed it wasn't turning very freely - in fact it wouldn't turn at all when I powered it back up.  Trouble is I haven't a clue how to remove it to replace it!  This tiny fan appears to have two diagonally opposed spring-loaded pins, the other diagonal having two miniscule screws which just keep turning, but not releasing anything.
    I realise this is a very old board, but can anyone suggest how to remove this fan?  Just a thought; I imagine this fan has not been working properly (at all?) for sometime - so is a replacement vital?
    Thanks for reading this.

    You know when you have a toothache but you get to the dentist there's no sign of pain - well this chipset fan has started to work again!
    Thanks eagle for your response - I'll get a passive heatsink and replace fan anyway - but what a nuisance to have to take MB out to do so!

  • North bridge fan leds don't work

    Hello to everyone!!!! :biggthumbsup:I have one small query!Recently i installed creative soundblaster audigy 2 zs pci card onto my pc.Some days later i observed that the (6?) leds on the north bridge fan didn't work and so do now.
    Is there an explanation for that?I also did a format before the installation of the sound card,however, i don't know which is the reason  
       Can anyone solve my query?Thank you very much!!!!

    That technician is trying to pull you off by giving these irrelavent reasons.
    Yes, the sound will be disabled if a PCI sound card is added in, but what has it got to do with the NB Fan . Your technician really beats me to this point...   as I've never come across anybody giving such an excuse before
    It's good that you RMA the mobo instead of going back to that technician again ... He got to start brushing up on things like this  

  • Can/Should the North Bridge thermal paste be replaced ????

    Hi to all,
    I have a 865PE Neo2 LS and I was wondering if anyone have replaced the thermal paste bettwen the North Bridge chipset and it's cooler? I'm asking because I bought the Ceramique, a very good thermal compound from Artic Silver (http://www.arcticsilver.com/ceramique.htm), and I applyed it to my CPU. It gives me 42 degrees Celsius in CoreCenter at full load. My CPU is a 2.6 GHz and nothing is overclocked. So, I was wondering if I could apply it to the North Bridge.
    If there is a MSI engineer reading this, could you please tell me the specs of the thermal compound used in this board or tell me if it is worth replacing it?
    Regards,

    I just installed the gold Zalman NB HS with Arctic Silver 5 and a paper clip.  Here's how it works:
    If you get a big paper clip [standard large office size] and flatten it out and then re-purpose it into the appropriate springy shape with with needle-nose pliers,  you can make your own retention spring.  It's a bit tricky getting it tightened up properly and sticking the pliers in there is not for the fumble-fingered -- I have to admit that my wife was doing some of the precision work at the end -- but my system has no complaints 20 minutes later with Arctic Silver in there.
    I used a needlenose set of pliers (precise twisting), a standard pair of pliers (general flattening), and the wire cutters on the needlenose pliers (because the flat paper clip is much too long).
    Now all I have to do is shut that darned video card up and I should be doing pretty well.
    Hope it helps! (and that I've not steered you wrong as it's only been working for 20 minutes thus far...)
    ::Kaze (goes to run a stress test)

  • Did all KT6-FISR have north bridge fan

    I've just bought a KT6-FISR brand new. The first thing I've noticed is that the north bridge has a heat sink on it, but no fan. Neither is there a fan in the box.
    Did all KT6-FISR have a north bridge fan as standard?
    Is it fitted onto the heatsink on delivery, or does the user have to fit it?
    I'm just wondering whether it has been taken from the box by 'someone' at the computer shop.

    I depends on what MSI included in that particular bundle as it isn't the same for every board the SR/LSR I know probably wouldn't have it the FISR could have it though still doubtful only the top of the rung FIS2R would be the one that should have it no questions asked. Now the heatsink on fanless boards will do just fine the fan is tiny noisy at times, and isn't needed in fact I'm replacing my northbridge HSF with a Zalman fanless one.

  • North bridge fan & SFAN1

    How come when i plug my fan onto SFAN1 i can view its RPM in the bios under North Bridge Fan BUT CoreCenter still reads 0rpm. Also, is it possible to have Cool N' QUiet control SFAN1, PWFAN1, and PWFAN2??

    and I don't see the rpm of the cpu-fan in the bios, but I do see it in Corecenter? I have bios 1.1

  • IMac 27" (mid 2010): Will replacing the HD cause fan problems?

    Hi,
    I have an iMac 27" (mid 2010). My HD is broken, and I'd like to replace it. I've already installed an SSD, so replacing the HD shouldn't be much of a problem.
    However I've read that replacing the HD causes the fan to spin up all the time. Some sites say this started one generation later, but some remain unspecific or say that this problem affects all iMacs. Before I replace my HD, I'd like to know what to expect.
    So my question is: in my 2010 iMac, can I replace the HD without causing fan problems (provided I put the temp plug in the right place )?
    Best regards,
    F

    OWC is mistaken. I don't know why they keep saying that. (I'm not even certain the OWC blog linked above related to using the same make drive on the late 2009s was ever correct. I had a long phone conversation with an upper level WD tech some time ago who said that the originals were special ordered by Apple.) Those drives have Apple proprietary firmware which puts the temp sensor output to the jumper block, and you cannot just replace with a drive of the same manufacturer. A non-Apple WD drive will not have that connection at the jumper block.
    Two possibilities: Get an external stick-on temp sensor that will work with your model or use SSD Fan Control.
    http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/
    If I'm mistaken and you do get it to work directly with a replacement WD drive I will be pleasantly surprised, since I have a Late 2009 which will need a new drive sooner or later. Please post back with your results.

  • Mac Pro overheating; can I replace the power unit fan?

    After much strange behavior with my MacPro2,1 model I installed Hardware Monitor and discovered that the temperature readings for some of my Memory Modules and for the sensors on the Power Supply location 1 and Power Supply location 2 are very high.  With no load the temperature is reading about 62° C on the "Power Supply Location 1" sensor and 85-90° on "Power Supply Location 2" sensor.  I installed smcFanControl and found that I could cool the Memory Modules but even with all fans set on maximum speed the Power Supply temperatures droped only slightly to about 78- 80° C.  All of the fans increased their RPM except for the "Power Supply Fan" which remains at 599 RPM no matter how high you set the Power Supply fan on smcFanControl.
    All this leads me to suspect that the Power Supply Fan is either not running at all or is not able to accelerate in response to high temperatures in the power supply area.
    My questions are these:
        1. Can I visually confirm that the power unit fan is not working?  That is, what do I need to do to actually visualize this fan in question and see if it is running?  Is there another way to confirm that the fan is bad aside from just inferrring this from the high temperatures and findings in smcFanControl?
        2. Is fan replacement a job that I could reasonably expect to perform myself or do I need to take it to an Apple repair shop?  I have replaced hard drives and RAM in Powerbooks and a Mac Mini, installed PCI cards, etc.
        3.  Are there diagrams and/or instructions for doing this sort of thing?
    Thanks.
    John Baughman

    John Baughman wrote:
     ... 1. Can I visually confirm that the power unit fan is not working?  That is, what do I need to do to actually visualize this fan in question and see if it is running?  Is there another way to confirm that the fan is bad aside from just inferrring this from the high temperatures and findings in smcFanControl?   
        2. Is fan replacement a job that I could reasonably expect to perform myself or do I need to take it to an Apple repair shop?  I have replaced hard drives and RAM in Powerbooks and a Mac Mini, installed PCI cards, etc.
        3.  Are there diagrams and/or instructions for doing this sort of thing?...
    If you  only have one DVD drive, you can shine a bright light straight back through the lower drive area where you'll see a screen with fan blades behind it at the rear end of the SuperDrive cage. That's the power supply fan at the front of the power supply. You should be able to see it spin when you power up. I found that smcFanControl couldn't control the PS fan on my Mac Pro 1,1 either (it does work on the 5,1's PS fan). If you remove the SuperDrive carrier, you can get directly at the PS fan for more effective dust removal.
    Diagrams and instructions for how to do that and much more can be found here http://tim.id.au/laptops/apple/macpro/ which is a source of Service Manuals. X423424X gets the credit for posting that link; I just bookmarked it.

  • North bridge fan

    Seems like the nb fan on my neo2 is always running at it's top speed (~5200 rpm). It should throttle down to a lower speed at times, shouldn't it?
    Thanks.

    Well I discovered through the process of elimination that the nb fan at 100% is really not that loud and thus wasn't the source of all this damn fan noise. It's my evga 6800gt that's relatively quite loud. Any suggestions?

  • 2ND N-Bridge FAN FAILURE

    Hi there,
    I was wondering...
    This is the 2nd time that the north-bridge fan on my K7N2 Delta ILSR has started failing in the last 9 months. The first one i had swopped out by my mobo supplier. The board is still under warranty and yet again the fan has started failing.
    What gives ????
    Does MSI have a fan that will not fail in 4 Months ? Or do i have to go and purchase a 3rd party fan ?
    Thanks

    Quote
    Originally posted by BigPoppa
    Thanks for the help. i will look into the Iceberg as a replacement. Just cheeses me off that the damn OEM fans didn't even last 5 months...
    And i really like the look of the stock cooler... AW WELL... win some loose some.
    Here is how to use them. When you get the fan and chipset,Take the fan apart to just the fan and grill.Remove MSI Northbridge fan by removing screws.DO NOT REMOVE HEATSINK. Save screws. Use the screws that you saved for the replacement fan.Place fan in exact same spot you removed old fan and center it. It will sit flush like the one you removed.Screw it right into the heatsink.Plugs right in where old fan was plugged. Good to go.
    If you are afraid of failure, buy 2. LOL
    While my fans are going bad, they haven't quit working. I saved them in case the Iceberq's quit.

  • MSi GF4 Ti4800 temp and NTH bridge fan

    Hi there
    As you can see in my sig, I have an MSI GF4 Ti4800 in a Neo875P PCB2 mobo. At the weekend I encountered a bit of a problem. After about 6 hours of use, with the CPU running at 100% most of the time (at 46 - 49 degrees) I started to get strange patterns scrolling vertically down the screen.  I was unable to make out anything on the screen so I had to hit the reset button. When the machine had rebooted, I ran sppeedfan (v4.13) which reported the GF4 was reaching a temp of around 60 degrees ! When the temp got above 65 degrees I got the wierd patterns again.
    This is the first time I've really had a long session since I installed this mobo. Everything else is quite cool - CPU, HD's and case.
    Is the fact that the North fan is right above the H/S on the GF card causing the card to over heat ? I've removed the fan that came with the card (I've have the card about 14 months or so) and replaced it with a Thermaltake cooper H/S and fan. This HAS made a difference, the temp has not risen above 60 degrees - but this is still really hot.
    Is there anything else I can do ? Does the North bridge fan blow or suck ?
    Is there much improvement (performace wise) to be had in upgrading to a FX5900 128mb card (MSI or Gainward Gold Sample) ? The MSI FX5900 XT-VTD128 has a fan at the back and front of the card, so I'm wondering if this will foul on the north bridge fan ? Anyone using one of these ?
    Thanks as always
    Fred

    Hi m8 i have a similar set up to yourself and found that my graphics card was bloody well hot!!!!
    what i done was added a port blower to the left hand side of the graphics card (the fan side) and it fits like a glove without blocking the graphics card fan.
    I was left with the problem of the rear heatsink hotting up!!!,,, the cure was to use a spare fan i had off a pentium 2 heatsink and i stuck it on with evostick and routed the 3 pin connector to the motherboard.
    It is on solid and the card now runs cool,i did off set it so it blew directly onto the indentation of the heatsink where it contacts the gpu chip..... hope this helps m8...baz

  • North bridge noise

    about the NEO2-S
    this North bridges fan makes a hell of a noise, is he really nesseary if i don't overclock at all ? because in all later models MSI didn't put on a north birdge active cooling...
    my machine is working intesively but no overclocking is being made.
    i saw some threads about it here, but is there any official or something close to it from MSI saying this usless ( but sure is beautiful ) fan can be removed without any risk ?
    thanks

    remove the FAN only, don't remove the entire heatsink!
    MSI won't give you any official answer. The heatsink without the fan is sufficient for normal cooling, provided your chassis is well air-ventilated.

  • MSI 890FXA-GD65 North Bridge Temperatures

    Hi there I have recently purchased the MSI 890FXA-GD65 for a new build. The thing that suprises me is that the temps on the North Bridge are very random. It normaly stays in the 55 C- 65 C range, but it is constantly jumping up and down in a matter of seconds. For example it goes from 58C to 65C in a second and then could drop to 55C the next second and after that could jump to 70C and it just continues playing. I am wondering if anyone else has the same issue with the readings and what could be the cause of ti?

    I am waiting for a memory at the moment. However the airflow in my case is more than adequate, GPU idles at 30C and does not exceed 50 under load with the fan at 25% of the max speed. The CPU is well cooled with no fans on the heatsink (Thermalright Black 120), idling at 25C and going to 45C under load and overclocked. The RAM modules are very cool on touch as well and my MB shows constant temperature of 28C - 30C. I think its something wrong with the diode, because there is no way that the temp would jump from 55 to 70 in a second and the next second to come back down to 60. I was just wondering if someone else has similar thing with their mobo. I have got 3 year warranty on it so I am not that worried about it, plus it is not crashing or anything, its just the readings.
    P.S. I forgot to mention that this is not detected as NB on any program. Instead on AIDA64 shows up as AUX temperature, and on HW Monitor comes up as TMPIN1, but I read it corresponds to NB usually. Plus this is the warmest part on touch.

  • North Bridge - TMPIN1 Temps High

    HW Monitor is reporting the TMPIN1 is @ 76 °C on the MSI Big Bang Xpower mobo.  I am not sure but I think it is the North Bridge.  Should the temperature be that high?  I am not OCing, I just have the computer on and do not have any programs running besides the HW Monitor.  It has been on for 15 minutes and the TMPIN1 is @ 76 °C.  The case I am using is Lian Li PC-B25FWB which has 5 fans which should be cool enough.  The temp on the CPU is averaging 31 °C.  I plan on OCing and do not want to fry the mobo, what can I do to fix this?  I just purchased the mobo a week ago, I probably can return it.

    Quote
    I spend a while trying to remove the purple paste that was stuck on the north bridge last night.  Applied some Arctic 5 and the average temp on the north bridge is 60 °C.  Not great but a lot better then before. I would say MSI has an issue with the paste they use for the north bridge.
    Quote
    The bottom line to all this is rather simple & based on Intel's Thermal & Design Guide for their chip. If the IOH temp doesn't hit 95C Tcontrol at full load for a continual sustained period of time (on a daily basis), it should never be a problem or potential issue concerning component longevity or data loss or corruption.
    The last thing desired with this response, is to start an argument or debate in your thread. There is no specific issue or functional/operational problem with your board is there? In your case, an aftermarket CPU cooling solution has been used. That loss of passive air to the surrounding components sometimes needs to be addressed depending on the use of the system. OC'ing, hardware configuration, can all have an impact with individual components & inside the case temps. One must follow what they think is best for their individual systems, not what some folks would post & present as a problem or issue when there is none.

  • What is the Lenovo S205 fan size?

    Hello,
    I want to replace the Lenovo S205 fan. Can you tell me the size of the fan?
    Thanks!

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-IdeaPad-S205-heatsi​nk-CPU-fan-DFS430F05PBT-FROCECON-new-genuine-/1606​...

Maybe you are looking for

  • Can I hook up my direct Tv box to my new i Mac

    is it possible to hook direct Tv to my new i mac I am new to apple

  • How can I speed up the connection to the database?

    I am running a JSP application with regular JavaBeans not EJB and connecting to the database through these beans. The connection is set to stay in memory as long as the bean is in session. However when I am running more than 7 sql statements seperatl

  • RUNNING TOTAL

    Hi, Can any one tell me how to create a running total in Oracle reports. I have two fields pulled in the SQL called CR and DR. I want to do the running total at report level. Here what I want CR------DR-------RTOTAL 20-----10---------10 ( here the RT

  • Restarting Queue not allowed in PI

    Hi Felix, You can use RSQOWKEX --> QOUT Scheduler: Execution of Registered Outbound Queues OR RSQIWKEX - -> Standard QIN Scheduler: Execution of Registered Inbound Queue These are available in PI 7.1. Please see this Blog /people/sap.india5/blog/2006

  • IPhoto/iPhone Duplicates Fix!!!

    I keep coming across a issue. My iPhone has about 900 pictures on it, but when I go try to import into iPhoto on MacBook Pro, iPhoto calculates up to almost 2,000 photos. Then when complete, i see almost three or two copies of each picture that is fr