Replacing emac's power cord/cable/plug

so i have reason to believe, i have a faulty plug on my emac.
i have a couple of reasons for this, firstly there is a sticker on top of the plug saying "passed" dated 2007, underneath it says something about needing to be tested by December 2008.. secondly i got an electric shock from one of the plugs yesterday. and though im not sure which one it is, im gonna hazard a guess it was that one.
anyways, i just need to know how to get my hands on one, and also what the specifications for the plug actually is.
thanks.

Hi harreh
Cords appear to be available. Click on the link below. There is an Apple part No. on that page as well.
eMac Power Cord
*Getting zapped is serious.* Maybe you should get an electrician in first, just to acertain that you are earthed properly.

Similar Messages

Why can I not play music through my headphones while the power cord is plugged in?

When my headphones and power cord are plugged in at the same time, audio will not play through the headphones, and the volume bar goes away. Why?

What is the other end of the power cord plugged in to? If it isn't an Apple wall adapter the phone probably sees it as an audio device.

Need a new g5 power cord/cable

where can i get one? anyone know? i don't want to end up with an old G3 cable that does not work, etc.

It's been a couple months, so you may have taken care of this already, but I thought I'd post the following links as I wait to hear back from Apple regarding the problem with our order:
http://www.welovemacs.com/g5ducoandqu4.html
http://www.welovemacs.com/9225950.html
We just ordered three refurbished "Late 2005" G5s for the office, ourselves. One of them arrived with a power cord for an earlier model, so I can't even plug the thing in. I now have to wait "72 hours" to hear back from tech support because it seemed no one was available to handle this yesterday. Hopefully they get this straightened out. I tried to explain that the power cord was wrong and that I just needed to swap it for the correct one. That turned out to be, apparently, the most confusing thing in the world yesterday, after the first guy thought I wanted to return the whole computer, the second guy in tech support (I was transferred there by the first guy) told me it was a sales issue and directed me back to sales (where the first guy was from) and the woman I spoke to said she wasn't a sales rep and didn't quite sound as tech savvy, asked, "Now, when you say 'power cord,' do you mean 'power adapter?'" Uhhh...no, I mean the stinkin' cord from the back of the computer to the wall outlet! Sheesh!). After all was said and done and she was verifying the e-mail address associated with our account, somehow I got suddenly disconnected from her ("We're sorry, your call cannot be completed as dialed, please hang up and try the toll-free number again" -- ummm...no, thank you, I was just on the phone for about 30 minutes, I need to get back to work), so hopefully they have all the info they need from me.
If all does not go smoothly, at least there are places from which to purchase the proper cord. I shouldn't have to, though.
Oh, well, hope the above links help. Forgive my rant...had to get that out.

Satellite Pro U400 sometimes freezes when the power cord is plugged in

Hello! I know this problem has been discussed here and there but I would like to open a new thread on that. Here is the scenario.
I have recently bought a new Toshiba Satellite Pro U400-247 (PSU45E) with two batteries: (a) the original one, (b) additionally purchased Toshiba genuine PA3636U-1BRL, 7200 mAh. The notebook has the latest BIOS (4.80) and the latest drivers downloaded from Toshiba and installed (ConfigFree is not installed). I am using XP Pro SP3 (clean install done by myself). Everything is working very well, except for one thing:
Sometimes (but not always), when the notebook is working on battery and I plug in the power cord, everything freezes and I have to restart. Some observations:
(a) it tends to happen more frequently when the low battery alarm has already sounded;
(b) it seems to happen more frequently with the 7200 mAh battery and less frequently with the original battery;
(c) it seems to happen more often when a USB device (e.g. mouse) has been connected with the notebook, but that is not a rule;
(d) it seems to happen less frequently when I move the USB mouse at the time I am plugging in the power cord;
(e) I have experimented a lot with Toshiba PowerSaver's settings (e.g. changed the CPU levels for my profiles) but nothing I have modified seems to change the situation;
(f) I have tried various suggestions I found on different forums, but no avail (e.g. BIOS settings);
(g) otherwise, I can say that I really have not seen a smoother computer, everything else is really working just fine, no other problems whatsoever :)
All this makes me think that this must be some kind of bug in the motherboard drivers, the PowerSaver driver or other drivers interacting with the battery, the CPU or possibly USB. Is there an explanation for this problem and can it be rectified somehow (e.g. by providing a driver update)?

Hello, thanks for the reply!
My bad, of course I meant the chipset driver. That, however, does not change the essence of the question. Also, I know that a notebook should function properly even the AC adaptor is connected or not connected. That is why I posted my question.
As for the OS reinstall, sorry, I would not do that just on some wild guess from somebody. I recently finished the clean OS install. I have installed XP on dozens of notebooks in my life and I know what I am doing. I have been into computers and networking for 15 years and I know when I see a problem not related to how I install my OSes.
My personal opinion: this problem has not to do with the OS install since the same problem also existed when I test-installed the XP OS image from Toshiba's own downgrade CD (that was before I did a clean install from my own slipstreamed CD). And, if you really use a properly and carefully configured OS with all the necessary software, an OS reinstall is not something you just do every day.
As for the rest (testing the memory / adapter / motherboard etc.): as I have mentioned, similar (although not identical) topics have been raised in various other instances (e.g. at http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/t5/B...EABCA64EE6C5D9) . That means that this problem is most probably not specific to my computer or even to U400 but it may happen with other Toshiba notebooks too. Therefore a (rather standard) suggestion to spend days on reinstalling (and in my case, carefully reconfiguring) the OS, checking the memory, adapter, mobo etc. does not sound as the most plausible one in this case. FYI, I always do full tests on hardware right after I have installed an OS. In this computer, all tests (Toshiba's own; 3rd party memory diagnostics, HDD diagnostics) were passed OK. Indeed, I did not have the AC adapter tested but as it otherwise works fine, the possible problem (if there is one) would be a minor one to notice, and would require testing at a Toshiba service centre (there is no direct Toshiba agency in my country). I think testing the AC adapter is the last resort as much more probably, the problem lies somewhere else.
Even if this problem is hardware-related, I do not expect Toshiba to replace all such hardware out there. However, on many occasions, hardware-related problems can be cured or alleviated on the software side (e.g. by a driver or BIOS update). Since it seems that other people are having similar problems with Toshiba hardware/software, I thought that maybe someone has found an actual solution or maybe there are Toshiba employees reading these forums who could look into it.

Laptop crashes when ac power cord is plugged in or removed

i have a dell inspiron duo 1090. whenever i plug in, or remove the power cord the system crashes. it appears as though it kills xorg or xserver or whatever in the process. basically the screen goes to terminal and it sends a bunch of text really fast, and then freezes. i'm not sure how to get the message as the computer is frozen at the time...or if it would be helpful. if anyone has experienced this or has any ideas i'd be really happy to get this taken care of. thanks!

@boohoomill: i've been trying to recreate the crash to check the logs. strangely i haven't been able to. i suppose that's good, for now. i'll post the logs if i can get the system to crash again. it's really weird that it did that EVERY time i plugged in or unplugged the ac power cord....until i wanted to check the logs.
@ewaller: I am using Gnome, i have not installed acpid, laptop-tools though, or any other type of laptop power saving stuff like cpu frequency scaling. i suppose that i have the basic power management package that comes with gnome.....at least i think that it belongs to gnome.

Why won't my MacBook run on battery and display on the monitor? Runs fine if power cord is plugged in. I have to be plugged in to see the monitor display. Any ideas

Why won't my laptop run on battery and display on the monitor? If it is plugged in to power it works fine but the monitor goes blank if the power cord is removed. Any ideas?

Nothing is wrong. what your're seeing is by design.

Spilled water on Laptop- it works only when power cord NOT plugged in.

HP Pavilion dv2000 laptop I spilled plenty of water on the right side where the power cord is. I removed that and took the battery out. (12 cell i think) Dried out the laptop for about a day or so. The laptop is fine except when I'm trying to charge while ON, it automatically turns OFF. So, what gives? How much money do I have to pour into it to fix it?
Thanks!

Water and electricity do not mix (obviously ). When you are plugging in the adapter into your computer, there may be a short somewhere where the water was.
Maybe let it dry out some more, otherwise, I would take it to a local repair shop to look at it (if you're out of warrnty).

Power cord cable

I've notice that at the Apple store i visited, that most iPads on display had the power cables exposed or the cable about to break. I've had that problem w other power cables, and is usually at the end of the cable where it meets w the attachment that goes into the unit. Perhaps is the abuse that these display units take, but if that is any indication, Apple should consider a solution for the power cables attachments.

I have multiple iPod/iPhone cables-all of them in near perfect condition after a couple years use.
If you use the bottom part of the connector(white plastic part) to pull the connector loose instead of yanking on the cable part(as you should for any cable or power cord) they last just fine.

Won't recognize that the power cord is plugged in

trouble with the power cord. won't let it connect

are you using the original power adapter for the device? has it been working before or is this out of the box?
please indicate what's the model number for your unit and the output specification of the power adapter.

My MBP wouldn't start this morning, it was just stuck on white screen with grey logo and fan running. I replaced my magsafe power cord and resolved starting issue. Now I can't connect to internet and iTunes won't load??? Help?

This morning I was just getting the white screen with logo and status bar with fan running. I thought it was an issue with the power adapter so I went out and replaced it. MBP will start now, but won't connect to internet. I have full wi-fi signal. Also, when I try to launch iTunes, it just quits right away. Please help?
-A

Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.

How can I cancel my contract with Verizon without any fees because Verizon has failed to provide me with a workable phone for over 2 months despite many hours talking to tech support and several replacement phones, batteries, power cord, and sim card etc

How can I contact a representative of Verizon to help me cancel my contract so I can switch carriers to get a phone that is reliable and a Co. that supports its products? Verizon seems to have many blocking scripts or dead ends when trying tio contact someone who can help the customer. How can I get around the blocks and get to someone who can directly answer my questions? I have one of those "hot" phones that were recently seen on the news, yet no one seems to be able to help me resolve the issue. I have no idea where this comment goes, or who reads it?
Jim R

The phone is your responsibility, if it's before the 1 year warranty you can get defects fixed by the Manufacturer of the phone. If you want to leave pay your termination fee, or find a carrier who claims they will do it but don't really expect it to happen either.

Power cord is plugged in but won't charge until battery is drained

Not the worst issue in the world for now but there will come a time! does anyone know how to resolve this?
thanks,
cata

You might try to reset the SMC and/or PRAM.

Where can I get a replacement power cord for my 13" Mac book, Where can I get a replacement power cord for my 13" Mac book

Where can I get a replacement apple charger/power cord for my 13" Mac book?

here are some examples: https://www.google.com/#q=macbook+magsafe+adapter&hl=en&prmd=imvns&source=univ&t bm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=i6nhTrvTO6q22gWIpuTcBA&sqi=2&ved=0CHkQrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc .r_pw.r_cp.,cf.osb&fp=e0f7ed75ce37ea0c&biw=1280&bih=679

Computer will only work with power cord plugged in...

A few months ago it started shutting down on its own randomly. Now, it won't start unless the power cord is plugged in. Even when it says its fully charged, and I unplug it, it dies. Do I just need a new battery or is this another problem?

How many cycles does your battery have?

Replacement power cords

Are there any replacement power cords that are compatiable or does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement?

The power cord is a standard item available at most electronics shops or computer stores. It is known as an IEC standard C13 type. HP's part number is 8120-6260 for the version used in the US.
8120- 6260
Power cord (Black) - 3-wire, 18 AWG, 1.0m (3.3ft) long - Has straight (F) C13 receptacle (for USA, Canada, Taiwan, Latin America, and Saudi Arabia)
The power module is a larger black box that contains the power supply, it is part number Q7310-6003 or 0950-4466. This part is no longer available from HP but a search on google or eBay should turn up some reasonable supplies.
Q7310-60003
Power module - Input voltage 100-240VAC, 50/60HZ, 1.0A - 16/32VDC dual-voltage output, 40 watts - Requires a separate 3-wire AC power cord with C13 connector
0950-4466
Power module - Input voltage 100-240VAC, 50/60HZ, 1.0A - Output voltage 16-32VDC dual-voltage output, 40 watts - Requires a separate 3-wire AC power cord with C13
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

Replacing emac's power cord/cable/plug

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for