Replacing PSU on Quicksilver G4

Hi there, I have a 10 year old Quicksilver G4, and have arrived at the conclusion that the power supply needs replacing. I have tried to follow the instructions on the apple web site http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58769
However, I can't remove the front panel of the Mac (which is pretty much the first step!) I lifted up the tabs but it seems stuck at the top and bottom where the front panel reaches the top and bottom grab handles at the front of the machine. The picture shows the front cover removed but with the grab handles in place. I have tried brute force but it feels like I would snap the panel in half.
Any tips please?
Many thanks.
Best
Pat

Hi-
You don't need to remove the front panel, only the bezel around/in front of the optical drives.
Looking in the side of the tower, locate two tabs that are connected to the bezel. Gently push the tabs in (toward the optical drives) and move the bezel out away from the tower. The bezel will swing like a hinged door, so you must clear the tabs to the front of the tower before the bezel can be fully removed.

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Hello There, I love my 'new' secondhand Quicksilver 2002 but I hate the noise it makes. I have emailed a firm about getting quieter fans but they want to know what size the existing fans are - can someone tell me please? Or at least how does one measure them? - as I can open the machine and have a look. Also any recommendations? Thanks

Hi-
Your fans are as follows:
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I'm thinking of changing the following fans on my machine for quieter versions as the Quicksilver is just too loud!
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Hi-
Your fans are as follows:
Case fan 120mm x 25mm = 86 cfm 37 dba
PSU exhaust 80mm x 25mm = 38 cfm 29 dba
CPU intake 60mm x ??= 23 cfm 33.5 dba
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http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36&zenid= 3b5951b15677aeba573668e965e6d5a0
Sorry about the thickness on the CPU fan- you'll have to measure it (total thickness of fan cage), or, maybe someone else will post.
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It could be a multitude of things causing this to happen...sounds like it's time to take it to a qualified technician and let him/her have a run thru your rig...
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Replaced PSU with TAGAN, good decision?

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Well, the noice coming from your PSU could well be due to a fan which isn't working properly anymore. ALso you said that you didn't experience instability. According to the varying voltages reported by Corecenter, I can say that there are lots of people here complaining about corecenter reporting wrong numbers, which also tend to vary all the time, so I wouldn't trust them too much. The Tagan PSU however is a very good replacement of your old Enermax. It is very quiet and thereby rock stable! Like Bas, I always recoomend people a good PSU with more than enough juice to keep the system stable in every situation, and the Tagan and the OCZ (470W/520W) are two of those...

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About 5 hours agi, I replaced a PSU in my T3 since the old one had batteries that were 2 years past their expiration date :-). However, on the replacement, id read u1pcu1output is all blank:
T3-foo:/:<5>id read u1pcu1
Revision :
Manufacture Week :
Battery Install Week :
Battery Life Used :
Battery Life Span :
Serial Number :
Battery Warranty Date:
Battery Internal Flag:
Vendor ID :
Model ID :
Here's the other one (can you say "deferred maintenance"?):
T3-foo:/:<6>id read u1pcu2
Revision : 0000
Manufacture Week : 00262000
Battery Install Week : 00462002
Battery Life Used : 1132 days, 17 hours
Battery Life Span : 730 days, 12 hours
Serial Number : 012232
Battery Warranty Date: 20021115134029
Battery Internal Flag: 0x00000000
Vendor ID : TECTROL-CAN
Model ID : 300-1454-01(50)
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Do I need to wait a few more hours for the new batteries to charge?
Do I need to do the "id write busage" to fill in this info?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
-w

Well, with the "new" PSU (that has probably been sitting on a shelf for two or three years) , and the other "old" PSU with the 4 year old batteries, "fru stat" is now cycling betweeb both batteries good, one at fault, and the other at fault, at about 8 hour intervals. "id read" output is still blank.
NiMh batteries should be good for a least hundreds of charge-discharge cycles, and should last for many years if charged properly. I have some NiCds AA cells are almost 10 years old (although most lasted about 3 years), and most of my NiMh AA cells are about 3 or 4 years old and show no signs of wekness.
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Sun has every right to be conservative with T3 batteries, considering the criticality of the application, but the batteries should be good for more than two years if your electricity is not going off every day. I only wonder if the output from "fru stat" is a true indication of the battery's ability to power the system.

Powermac G5 won't boot after new PSU replaced- says no ram installed!!!

I've recently inherited a friends old Powermac DP 2.0 G5 after it died a death. After some testing I diagnosed that that PSU had died in it- something that seems quite common.
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Have you done a PRAM reset...
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How to reset the SMU on a Power Mac G5 (Late 2004) or Power Mac G5 (Late 2005) ...
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Earlier G3, G4, G5 models...
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Quicksilver persistent freezing

My Quicksilver 2002 freezes at or near startup all the time. This is an improvement, as no startup at all was the condition before I replaced the CPU going from a dual 1 gig to a single 1 gig card. The Apple Hardware Test cd indicates a logic board error "Post/16/64" upon startup, but then says it passes the logic board, as well as all other tests, after it's up and running. The machine has the original 80 gig hd, running 10.4.4, and an additional 200 gig drive running 10.3.9. Is there any light at the end of this tunnel short of a logic board replacement?
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Was your motherboard orignally a 2002 QS? If not, the firmware rev. is different between a 2001 and a 2002 QS and could be the problem. There is no downloadable firmware update for the 2001 QS, I'm not sure on the 2002.
Also, you mentioned swapping CPUs from a dual to a single ... it may be too much to assume the firmware is backward compatible between the (2) configurations within the 2002 QS ... you may want to research if a firmware update is required. In some cases, it's not the dual CPU that creates a problem, but whether there is an L3 cache present or not versus what the system is expecting to see.
However, before you get into the above, I'd suggest you first try zapping the PRAM or resetting the mobo switch in the event the mobo is expecting the wrong hardware profile since your CPU swap.
Good luck.
QS Dual 933 G4 Mac OS X (10.3.5)

Mac Pro (2006/7ish) PSU

Hi all,
Quick question - just wondering how much a replacement PSU (+ labour) would be if done through an Apple Service Centre (UK)?
I was think probably ballpark £500?
Cheers.

They work off a fixed price list, not time&materials. So call or visit them and ask.
Have a defibrillator nearby.

Which PSU is best to buy for Early 2005 dual 2.0 G5

following on from this topic-
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2370706&tstart=0
I'm looking to purchase a replacement PSU but what I want to know is do I have to get a 450w one or will any of the others work in my machine ?
Thanks

Ok the replacement PSU arrived today, fitted it an hour or so ago. Mac booted first time and I checked systems profiler to check everything else was re-installed fine, no problems there. Shut her down and tried the power button and she booted straight up, thought I was on to a winner.
Just to be safe I shut her down after spotlight had done it's thing and went to boot the Mac again and this time nothing happens same as my previous problem located here -
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2370706&tstart=0
I've reset the PMU (although my systems date didn't change when I managed to get the Mac to boot!?) Left it unplugged for 30 mins or so but I'm still having the same problem, can't be another dodgy PSU can it ?
It doesn't seem as bad as my last one, seems a bit easier to get the Mac to boot, my old one took 2 days of being off to boot. Also when I unpacked the replacement this afternoon I opened it up to make sure there were no signs over over heating and the board looked perfectly fine.
I'm lost now!
Any ideas ?
Message was edited by: lhkmusic

PSU 12v output

I get steady 11.55 12v output from psu and it drops to 11.43 under high cpu stress. This has got to be unacceptable. I have new psu on the way. Enermax 460W 3.3v 35,
5v 35, 12v 33. Maybe that'll hold up the 12v rail. Then maybe I can run prime95 w/o failing. I expect it could be something else but psu is cheap one and can't find anything on net about it. That's why I'm replacing it. Stress info readme file said inferior psu could cause problems if voltages dropped under load. I'll post on this when I replace psu and run test again.

Quote
Originally posted by gleonard
Goodcooper, I live in Willard NC.
Forgiven, I didn't get noisetaker. I got EG465P-VE(FM) I think something like 70% minimum at full load.
ok, just wondering becuase we sold a lot a lot a lot of axio cases at my shop up in Fayettenam... and i thought maybe it was a coincidence or something, but i'm not sure who else sells Axio.
Anyway, the problem with Axio is, we stopped carrying thier PSUs/Cases... for two reasons really... first of all thier getting sued by RAIDMAX cuz thier top-end cases look almost identical... and second becuase thier PSUs are nothing to be longed for...
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KT4AV killed my PSU?

Hi! I new here. wondering you guys can get me some opinion about that is going on with my desktop.
My mobo killed 4 PSUs with the same model listed below. All of them do NOT have any burn smell.
What I have tried.
- 1st PSU died - got burn smell.
- replaced with 2nd PSU (model listed below) been working fine for pass 6 months 24 hours desktop running. sometimes i shutdown the desktop and let it run again.
- 2nd PSU died - no power etc. NO burn smell. MOBO etc no burn mark or smell.
- replaced 3rd PSU (same model) it died again after 1 hour of installation. Again no burn mark smell etc.
- next day i bought a KOSS AVR Activa A-80. Check for power leakage from the casing with a test pen (test out the pen is working) - NO power leakage. Connected the desktop with replacement PSU now with the AVR. able to power up and run the system with any problem - runnining normal for 24 hours for 4 weeks.
- today, I'm facing the same problem. PSU dead again!
please tell me. Am i using a crappy PSU? I think i ought to buy a better PSU and see how it goes. If it is the same, I'm going to bang my head on the wall
thanks!
My system specs:-
NO Overclocked ETC. Plain default specs running 24 hours.
AMD XP 1600
MSI KT4AV
Kingston 256MB DDR Ram
Geforce 3 Ultra
Nec DVD Writer 4X
Nec DVD drive 16X
Cheapo 100/10MB PCI NIC
Sound Blaster Value.
17 SAMTRON Monitor
SEADA PSU Model: KC-400 ATX
INPUT: 115V/230V AC 60/50Hz
7A/3.5A
Output: 400W MAX

ok extra work for me over my weekends! reseat stuffs from mobo. clean the CPU fan and things suggested by great people here giving me good suggestions.
I going to get a replacement PSU but i doubt it will be stable. I'm in office right now so i'm not be able to get the exact voltage specs from the PSU.
i dont think is a power point or power surge power because the last PSU died was with a AVR connected. Must be bloody PSU!!
But this mobo never had an issue killing the PSU right?
Asenius - nope. I dont have a special condition. just power point (socket)--> AVR --> desktop. well there are no beep sounds. Yup I gotta do that and see.
hexanir - 1 hour PSU died - next day got the same PSU replaced. was tested out working on another computer - it work fine for several months after that and died again.
multimeter is way out of my league For D-bracket USB i need to check whether i got or not. Bad electricity - i have bought an AVR but still same.
Sharp - I'll get you the specs later when i'm at home.

Gpu, Psu, Bios, or Memory Problem?? HELP!!

Continous problem arises again.
My Visiontek Geforce 3 Ti-200 still continously studders in heavy graphic
applications, such as Quake 3 and Divx. I have stated this problem before
with little luck fixing the problem. A complete format and installation of
Windows XP, nForce motherboard drivers 2.00, then the latest 43.xx Detonator
drivers has been done, with the problem still arising after installing Quake
3 (the next application after the GPU drivers) and testing the new
installation. In my findings, the most recent change of hardware specs is
the new CPU, a AMD Thoroughbred A XP1800, which after installation, make my
system function worse than with my old 1.2 Duron. The studderring of the
graphics and a new bug in the BIOS keeping me from changing the clock
spectrum is a few of the occurances. The BIOS bug only happens when i try
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High Performance setting and set the Memeory clock to 2 clocks instead of
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heartbeat like studder, but every 30 seconds the game will freeze for about
5 to 30 seconds, then continue. Repeating this until I exit the program. I
had upgraded the BIOS to allow the T-bred chip, which may have borked my
motherboard and/or my AGP. I have used the Geforce Tweaker with good
results in overall GPU performance. I can tell when I change settings that
my FPS in games have increased/decreased. I believe this may be a
global/software problem and hopefully not a RAM/PSU/GPU/CPU problem.
AMD Thoroughbred XP1800
MSI K7N415 with nforce 2.00 drivers, 3.2 BIOS
Visiontek Geforce 3 Ti-200 with 43.XX Detonator drivers.
2* 256 PC2100 Crucial DDR RAM CL2.5
Maxtor 80GB 5400 HDD Main parition with swap file of 768-1536
Quantum 30GB 5400 HDD 2 paritions - 1 normal, 1 swap parition of 1.6 GB
withe second parition of 768-1536
Enermax 351 Whisper PSU model EG365VP-VE
Label:
+3.3 - 32a
+5v - 32a
+12v - 17a
-5v - 1a
-12v - 1a
+5vsh - 2.2a
+3.3v and +5v = 185w
Total Power 350W
Bios:
+3.3 - 3.32
+5v - 4.91 to 4.99
+12v - 12.28 to 12.34
-5v - 5.40 to 5.45
-12v - 12.11 to 12.19
vbat - 3.08v
5vsb - 4.94
Generic cd-rom drive, floppy drive.
Hyrdaulic Case with 2 side intake fans
CPU temps - @37 idle/load
Case temps - @ 28 idle/load
Windows XP, no SP1
Tweaked with TweakXp, defrag every week or after installation of an
application, turned off system restore, auto updating, virius protection
(when doing heavy graphics heavy applications), etc
All applications and games are patched and updated to their latest versions
unless listed above.
TRIED:
AGP Apeture: 64 and 128
Detonator drivers 40.XX to 43.xx, unistalling the drivers, then deleting the
display folder under c:/Nvidia
Geforce tweaker fast and quality settings
Overclocking and underclocking
Turning off all anti-aliasing, astrpic, vertical sync filters
Slightly overlcocking and underclocking FSB.
Changing memory clock form 2.5 to 2
High performance BIOS and default settings
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Changing resolutions (currently at 12*10)
Disabling wallpaper, windows graphics, etc.
Cleaned up case wiring
Did not try:
Changing/replacing : PSU/GPU/Memory/CPU - dont have extras lying around
Memtest
Disabling ACPI before Windows Installation (i think its ACPI)
Nforce 2.03 drivers
Detonator 23.XX to 39.XX
Changing BIOS back to 3.0
Any type of GPU modding
Begging and praying
I do alot of graphic intensive work, and this problem is starting to show up
in applications like Photoshop, 3dsmax, and GTKradiant (Q3 level designer).
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Its the memory, last thing i would of thought of. Not that its bad or anything. I did memtest overnight with no problems and no errors with both sticks in but i recieved a message on a forum to try one stick earlier, I took out the newest chip and the problem went away.
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Replacing PSU on Quicksilver G4

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