Replacing the glossy screen with a 3rd party anti-glare or matte

I had my credit card ready to purchase 2 iMacs (finally rplacing our two G5's), until I realized that the anti-glare option with the 15" and 17" MBP would not be carried over to the iMacs. So I was wondering if anyone know of a third party with an option to replace the glossy screen with either a matte or an anti-glare screen. Would this void any warranty?

Open letter to Apple:
Let me first say, I'm a long-time, loyal Mac user (and defender). My first experience with Apple was in elementary school - on the Apple IIE. I created a game using DOS code in grade 5.
My father was a high school teacher and brought home a Mac Plus when I was in high school. The "Paint" program that it came installed with initiated my humble beginnings as digital designer - even on the small black and white screen, with it's limited capabilities, I could see the potential. We were always a Mac family. When my mother finally retired, I talked her into getting the same 24" white IMac I currently have, because that way I could walk her through the setting up and use of it, and now we can skype each other and it's like she's here in the room with me, not a whole province away.
I even had a Mac as a single mom struggling as a full time Communication Design student at Emily Carr University of Art and Design. My young daughter and I lived off my student loans, but they weren't enough to buy a Mac, so I asked my dad to co-sign a student line of credit so I could get a Mac to be compatible with the computers at school. This was the only way I could take my homework home and work while my daughter slept. I sacrificed a lot to have a Mac. We sacrificed.
Skip ahead about a decade, I have my own small graphic design business, I currently have 3 Mac computers: I have a 24" white Imac as my main business tool; I have a titanium laptop for meetings and presentations, and a white Macbook laptop that my high school-aged daughter uses for school and socializing.
I am now at the point in my growing business that it is finally time to upgrade all of my equipment. I've been excitedly holding out for the newest Imac release. I went in to our local BestBuy a few weeks ago to buy my new 27" fully loaded Imac (hey I've worked hard, why not splurge a little?) As I walked up to the Mac display and finally laid eyes on my long awaited dream machine, all I could see was the shocked and betrayed look on my face reflected in the shiny surface of the screen. I nearly cried, I was so disappointed. All I could think was "How could you? "
What is the point of having the shiny screen? I feel so betrayed, so foolish, for sticking with Apple through thick and thin for nearly a quarter of a century. I have invested thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars in Apple products, peripherals, and MAC compatible software for all of my Macs. Adobe CS3, Microsoft Office, 3rd party applications, Mac compatible fonts, and even games. I have purchased protection plans, extra RAM, home insurance and back-up devices for my Macs. I was invested in you, Apple. So what now? Will my hard earned savings now go toward buying the new PC software needed to convert my business to PCs?
The graphics industry, for a large part, has kept Apple going all these years. We have paid the premium for our Apples, and we have just been stabbed in the back by Apple. On behalf of the entire graphic design community in North America, Apple, please offer us a matte screen option on all your new computers.

Similar Messages

  • Replace the Glossy Screen with the Matte Screen on a 2008 Macbook Pro?

    Can you replace the Glossy Screen with the Matte Screen on a 2008 Macbook Pro?
    Where would I get a Matte Screen for a reasonable price if I could change it?

    There are a number of issues you should consider before embarking on this project.
    1. If you have a late-2008 unibody MBP, you are undoubtedly aware that there was never any anti-glare option offered for that machine. So there is no anti-glare display that was made to work with it.
    2. If you choose to replace only the LCD panel and not the entire display assembly — which is probably feasible but involves a great deal of painstaking work — you will also need to buy (separately) the aluminum bezel that takes the place of the glossy cover glass panel in models that came equipped with the nonglare screen. The bezel covers and protects the edges of the LCD and the delicate electronic connections there, and hides all that from view.
    3. If you go that route, you will have to make sure that the cabling related to the display you are installing is identical to the cabling related to your original display. This means checking to make sure the cable lengths, connectors and routing both within the display assembly and hinge cover and within the lower case of the computer are all the same.
    4. If you choose to replace the entire display assembly with one that contains a nonglare LCD, you will have the entire, intact glossy display assembly available to sell afterward. If you replace only the LCD panel, the LCD and glass cover panel that you remove will have much less resale value and are likely to be much harder to sell at all, because you won't practically be able to offer any warranty with them and because there are probably far fewer people willing to tackle the fussy, risky display disassembly process than are willing to replace the whole assembly as a unit.
    5. Even if you choose to replace the entire assembly, you will need to verify that the cables dangling from the replacement display assembly are the right lengths and have the right connectors to tie into your lower case properly. Because the assembly will have come from a later MBP model than yours, cable routing and connectors may have changed from one to the other.
    If this all sounds more daunting than you were expecting, you may want to consider just applying a nonglare film to the glass covering your present screen. If you aren't happy with the results, you can fall back on the replacement option.

  • HT5866 my screen on my 5C have crack n I need to replace the lcd screen with digitizer is this possible?

    I need to replace my crack 5C screen, any help

    If you are in the US, some Apple stores have the ability to replace a screen, some do not. If they can, the cost is only $149. If they cannot, then without Apple Care + you would need to purchase an out of warranty replacement at a cost of $269. If you do have Apple Care +. you can make 2 total exchanges over the 2 year life of Apple Care + with a $69 deductible.

  • My MacBook Air can't get past the gray screen with the apple logo. What's the fix?

    My MacBook Air can't get past the gray screen with the Apple logo, so I can't login. Does anyone know the fix for this?

    Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
    Step 1
    The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
    There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
    a. Boot into Recovery by holding down the key combination command-R at the startup chime, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) Release the keys when you see a gray screen with a spinning dial. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in the support article linked below, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
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    b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode by holding down the key combination command-T at the startup chime. Connect the two Macs with a FireWire or Thunderbolt cable. The internal drive of the machine running in target mode will mount as an external drive on the other machine. Copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
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    c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
    Step 2
    Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
    Before reconnecting an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
    Step 3
    Boot in safe mode.* The instructions provided by Apple are as follows:
    Shut down your computer, wait 30 seconds, and then hold down the shift key while pressing the power button.
    When you see the gray Apple logo, release the shift key.
    If you are prompted to log in, type your password, and then hold down the shift key again as you click Log in.
    Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
    The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
    *Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t boot in safe mode. Post for further instructions.
    When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is damaged and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to step 5.
    If you can boot and log in now, reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.) If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 4
    Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 5
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see above for instructions.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it produces. Look for the line "Permissions repaired successfully" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
    Step 6
    Boot into Recovery again. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, follow the prompts to reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
    Note: You need an always-on Ethernet or Wi-Fi connection to the Internet to use Recovery. It won’t work with USB or PPPoE modems, or with proxy servers, or with networks that require a certificate for authentication.
    Step 7
    Repeat step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a backup.
    Step 8
    If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.

  • Hello my Mac Air is frozen on the grey screen (with the apple symbol, sleeping mode, restart-and off button), once you turn it on.

    hello my Mac Air is frozen on the grey screen (with the apple symbol, sleeping mode, restart-and off button), once you turn it on. I Can`t press any button.My Mouse still works. Battery is charged. Alt-cmd-escape doesn`t work It even after a forced shutting off, the problem is the same.   what should i do? Thank you for your help.

    Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
    Step 1
    The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.   
    There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
         a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
    b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
    c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
    Step 2
    Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
    If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
    Step 3
    Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
    Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
    The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
    When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 5.
    If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
    If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 4
    Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 5
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
    Step 6
    Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
    Step 7
    Repeat step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
    Step 8
    This step applies only to older Macs (not current models) that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery. The battery is distinct from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a gray screen at boot. Typically the boot failure will be preceded by loss of the startup disk and system clock settings. See the user manual for replacement instructions.
    Step 9
    If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.

  • Last night I did an update and now when I turn on my macbook it just goes to the white screen with the apple and stays like that.

    Last night I did an update and now when I turn on my macbook it just goes to the white screen with the apple and stays like that. How do I fix this issue?

    Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
    To restart an unresponsive computer, press and hold the power button for a few seconds until the power shuts off, then release, wait a few more seconds, and press it again briefly.
    Step 1
    The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
    There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
    a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
    b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
    c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
    d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
    Step 2
    If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
    Step 3
    Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 4
    If a desktop Mac hangs at a plain gray screen with a movable cursor, the keyboard may not be recognized. Press and hold the button on the side of an Apple wireless keyboard to make it discoverable. If need be, replace or recharge the batteries. If you're using a USB keyboard connected to a hub, connect it to a built-in port.
    Step 5
    If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
    Step 6
    Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
    Step 7
    If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
    Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
    Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
    The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
    When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
    If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
    If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 8
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
    Step 9
    If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.  
    Step 10
    Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
    Step 11
    Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
    Step 12
    This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
    Step 13
    If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

  • I have a iMac (20-inch, Mid 2009). On start up It will sit at the White screen with the logo and the wheel that spins under it. It will not go past this point? Any ideas?

    I have a iMac (20-inch, Mid 2009). On start up It will sit at the white screen with the logo and the wheel that spins under it. It will not go past this point? Any ideas?

    Question (?) Mark, Blinking Folder, or Gray Screen at Startup
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  • Disk Doctor Fails, S.M.A.R.T , anyway to fix with a 3rd party utility?

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  • How do I fix a initializing problem with my macbook pro? I only get to the blank screen with the apple logo and the "processing something"sign... it just doesn't start the system....

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  • My iPhone 3G (8G) has the White screen with Grey lines, how do I fix it?

    Hello!, am a new iphone user I bought an iPhone off my friend and put my sim card in the iPhone.
    I've had my iPhone for 2 months nearly, when I got the iPhone it was in Great condition still is...BUT... I have the 'white screen of death' but with grey lines down the screen, I thought it was only tempory because when I smacked the phone against something it would work again, but now the problem is Permanant!!
    I've been on youtube and typed in my problem and people have suggested:
    - Holding the home screen and lock at the same time (it did nothing)
    - Holding the home screen and lock and the up volume key (it did nothing)
    - Restoring and updating the phone (it just came up with errors 4,9 and 21)
    I really have no idea what to do, can I replace the whole screen? would that work?
    or am I utterly screwed?
    I really can't live with out having my iPhone! Help!

    sounds like your LCD is broken. Replacing it would fix your problem. If you're handy with mechanical things you can replace it yourself, there are plenty of video's online who show you how. Order the parts and do it yourself, or you can pay roughly $50-75 to have it replaced.

  • I have a 4th generation iPod nano 4th and when I turn it on, the screen won't progress passed the main screen with the Apple logo. What should I do?

    I have a 4th generation 8GB iPod nano and it will not progress past the blank screen with the white apple logo on it. I have charged it fully and tried to restart it by pressing and holding the menu buttons for 3-7 seconds. The devices screen will turn off and then, after a couple of seconds, the screen with the Apple logo will appear again. This screen will remain lit until the iPod runs out of battery again. I have tried plugging it into my Macbook Pro. I have the newest versions of iTunes software and OS X Mavericks. The computer will not recognize the iPod and the device will not show up in the computers list of devices. I looked up the troubleshooting for the device and found out how to put the device into disk mode. I followed the intructions but the iPod would not go into disk mode. The screen still displayed the Apple logo and would not set into disk mode. I fear that I have run out of options. I have come to this forum in hopes that I can still salvage my device. If there is anything I can do, please loet me know so I can try it. If not, I am affraid I will have to go to an Apple store of authorized retailer and have it repaired or replaced.

    Try manually connecting the device to your PC in Disk Mode and then restoring it iTunes.
    From http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1363
    Putting iPod devices with a Click Wheel into Disk Mode
    If necessary, verify that your iPod has a Click Wheel.
    Before placing the iPod into Disk Mode, verify that it is charged.
    Toggle the Hold switch on and off (set it to Hold, then turn it off again.)
    Press and hold the Menu and Select buttons for at least six seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
    When the Apple logo appears, release the Menu and Select buttons and immediately press and hold the Select and the Play/Pause buttons until the Disk Mode screen appears.
    Connect the iPod to your computer; the screen on the iPod will should say "Do not disconnect".
    If you are having difficulty putting your iPod into Disk Mode, set it on a flat surface. Make sure that the finger pressing the Select button is not touching the Click Wheel. Also make sure that you are pressing the Play/Pause button toward the outside of the Click Wheel and not near the center. If you are still unable to put your iPod into Disk Mode, use one finger from one hand to press the Select button, and one finger from the other hand to press the Play/Pause button.
    B-rock

  • 10.6.8 software update won't reboot. It replaces the Apple logo with a circle with a diagonal line though it. What's the best course of action from here?

    I used software update last night and my iMac didn't restart afterwards. I spun the little "dashed" wheel for a bit and then replaced the Apple Logo with a slashed circle symbol. I"ve tried several fixes without success and would like to know what my best approach might be.
    I've tried to boot into single user mode but that failed the same as above. I've tried disk verify and repair permissions using Disk Utility, again without success in fixing the problem.

    com.apple.iokiast.IOUSBMassStorageClass
    is a Apple kext file and likely necessary.
    What you can do is backup your Users folders to another external drive (not TimeMachine) first so you have your files outside of TM. Disconnect this drive for safety reasons.
    Then hold c and boot off the OS X 10.6 installer disk and simply reinstall OS X on top of the installed version, then use the 10.6.8 Combo Update here
    http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1399
    That should replace the troubled kext file with a fresh version.
    This shouldn't bother your files or third party programs unless they have kext files or other "hooks" into OS X, if these programs fail, then just reinstall them from fresh sources and/or update to reinstall their missing parts.
    Consider cloning your boot drive to a external HFS+ journaled formatted drive with Carbon Copy Cloner.

  • HT4623 I downloaded ios7 and initially it was working fine. Now it is flashing from my home screen to the white screen with the black apple every 3-5 seconds. It's so annoying and I can't make it stop! I tried shutting down all the way - nope! HELP!

    I downloaded ios7 on my iphone 5 yesterday. All day it worked fine, then last evening it started blinking from the white screen with the black apple to my home screen. Each screen only stays up for 3-5 seconds then switches back. I have tried shutting down and it is still happening! Does anyone know how to fix this issue without having to go into the store?

    Your power adapter is OK. If the only place it will not work is in your home, your house wiring and / or the appliances connected to it are likely to be the reason your Mac will not charge.
    From Troubleshooting MagSafe adapters:
    Identify line noise issues.
    Unplug the power adapter from the wall, let it sit for 60 seconds, then plug the adapter back in.
    If the adapter works after this 60-second "rest", you most likely have a line noise issue with your power source. You should reset the adapter periodically by repeating this moment of rest. This issue occurs when the AC adapter's "over voltage protection" feature senses ground noise and then turns off the adapter.
    Some possible sources of line noise include lights with ballasts, refrigerators, or mini-refrigerators that are on the same electrical circuit as your computer. This behavior may not occur if you plug the power adapter into an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) or plug it into a different circuit.
    Unless the adapter continues to exhibit this behavior on a known good outlet, it does not need to be replaced.
    Household wiring problems are very common. They can also be very dangerous. Fortunately most problems can be easily fixed by a qualified electrician.

  • IPhone 5 randomly shuts off and it is stuck at the loading screen with codes popping up

    My friend's iPhone randomly shuts down today and the loading screen with the apple logo came on with some codes. I tried restarting it manually but the same thing keeps happening. The codes start with [nand] and mention something about blocks. What could be the problem?

    Could be a hardware fault. It may need to be replaced.
    Have you tried restoring it?
    ~Lyssa

  • Installed itunes 10.7 today but the restart is frozen at the white screen with the rotating wheel.  Any help is appreciated.

    I installed itunes upgrade (10.7, I think) today but the restart is frozen at the white screen with the revolving wheel.  Any suggestions?

    Thanks for your reply
    I tried Disconnect devices and network cables nothing
    I can't Perform a Safe Boot i press shift key but nothing
    I tried Reset the NVRAM / PRAM nothing
    Now  i am downloading lion os again "god help me"
    For  this step Start from your Mac OS X Install disc; use Disk Utility
    (why apple stop  Mac OS X Install disc ??? it is not a good idea )
    Check your cables and power source
    It is ok
    Remove third-party RAM and internal hardware
    Did not upgrade
    Is there another fixes  in case i couldn't download Lion os

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