Request quick answer! Will it hurt my Macbook Air to be plugged into a "Uni Pak II" which is a dimming power source?

I'm at a conference and the only plug is a "Uni Pak II" which is a dimming power source (here's the manual).
At first my charging indicator on the end of the MBA plug didn't light, but I slid up the analog slider and it lit up (I knew it had worked yesterday!).
Is there any chance of it harming my MBA or power supply to use this?
Thank you!

Is it difficult to configure Time Capsule in bridge mode
No, it is part of the original setup and configuration, which is guided by AirPort Utility, the application that is used to configure the Time Capsule.
and does it work well with the aforementioned Netgear wireless router?
Works fine since the Netgear will continue to provide the wireless network and serve as the main router on the network
In addition, do Windows PC's backup flawlessly to Time Capsule too?
I cannot speak to that question, since I do not use a PC. I would not expect a PC to work seamlessly with a Time Capsule since the TC was designed to backup Mac computers.
You would have to use a backup application that is designed for use on a Windows computer. Whether or not a given Windows application will work with the Time Capsule and Mac operating system is open to question. You should ask a lot of questions about any Windows application that you might be considering to make sure that it will do what you want.
In that regard, I would suggest that you should probably plan to use a separate hard drive specifically to backup the PC.

Similar Messages

Will it hurt my macbook air to leave it plugged in

I use my Macbook Air as a desktop as well as a notebook. Hence I leave it pugged in almost all the time, overnight and during the day when I'm often using it. Does this hurt battery life in any way?

Use and Misuse of the Lithium-Ion Battery
There is a great deal of confusing information being stated about the Lithium-Ion battery used in portable devices. On one level it is stated that the battery should be deep-discharged to shutdown regularly so as to calibrate the battery. In reality, the Lithium-Ion battery cannot be calibrated. Unlike the old NiCad battery, the Lithium-Ion battery has no memory. The only calibration that can be done is of the charge reporting circuitry.
Depth of Discharge
An independent group calling itself the Battery University which is sponsored by an instrumentation company not associated with the battery industry has conducted numerous tests of Lithium-based batteries. Their article How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries provides results of tests performed over a range of discharge/charge behavior, temperature effects, and so on. They found strong evidence that deep discharging to shutdown followed by charging results in a significant reduction in the battery’s cycle life. Discharge to 50% remaining charge and then recharging gives a cycle life of about four times that of repeated deep discharging and recharging.
Charging Behavior
Well designed portable devices have charging circuitry that prevents overcharging of a battery. When the battery charge reaches 100% the circuitry ceases to charge the battery and switches to powering the portable device. When the battery charge trickles down to a predetermined value, typically 93-95% charge, the circuitry switches to charging mode and tops up the battery. This will continue as long as the device remains on an AC power source.
Leaving a Lithium-based battery on an AC power source permanently is not good for the battery. The Battery University studies found that maintaining a high cell voltage for the life of the battery is detrimental. However, that can be remedied by periodically taking the device off the AC power source and discharging the battery partially and then reconnecting the power source. Since this is about a portable device it should be used on the battery periodically, or why would the user have bought a portable instead of a fixed desktop device.
Battery Cycle Life
Battery life, that is cycle life, is also misunderstood. The projected cycle life of a Lithium-Ion battery is quoted as some where in the range of 350-1,000 charge cycles. The cycle life is not the number of cycles at which the battery will fail, but, rather, the point at which the battery charge capacity drops to 80% of the as-built capacity. Also keep in mind that the cycle life prediction is statistical and follows the Normal, or Gaussian, bell shaped curve. There will be a number of batteries that last much longer than the predicted cycle life, and a number that last much shorter than the predicted cycle life. But the vast majority should reach the predicted cycle life if properly handled during their lifetime.
The charge cycle, by the way, is counted as a full discharge/charge cycle. Discharge to 50% and then charge counts as one-half of a cycle. Discharge to 25% and charge counts as three-quarters of a cycle. And so on. So the behavior of discharging to 50% and then recharging as a regular practice will mean that it takes 2,000 such cycles to equal the predicted 1,000 full charge cycles as the life of the battery.
Source of Information
In addition to the published work of those at the Battery University, supporting information was also gained from electrical engineers specializing in instrumentation and control systems and power systems.

Will an 11-inch MacBook Air work with Snow Leopard?

Will an 11-inch MacBook Air work with Snow Leopard? If yes, can you downgrade from Yosemite to Snow Leopard?

1. For actually booting Snow Leopard, it depends on the model; click here and see what the mimimum OS for yours is.
2. All of them can run Mac OS X 10.6 Server inside a product such as VirtualBox or Parallels Desktop.
(125764)

IPhone 4 will not connect to macbook air via bluetooth. Message " not supported"

iPhone 4 will not connect to macbook air via bluetooth

Try the suggestions here > iOS: Device not recognized in iTunes for OS X
If nothing helped, repair permissions.
Disconnect the iPhone.
On your Mac open Disk Utility located in HD > Applications > Utilities
Select the startup disk on the left then select the First Aid tab.
Then select: Repair Disk Permissions
This process can take a few minutes.
When it's done, restart your Mac and connect the iPhone.
If that doesn't help, reset the PRAM > About NVRAM and PRAM

Will RAM upgrade on Macbook Air result in a bottleneck?

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Will RAM upgrade on Macbook Air result in a bottleneck?
Hi I am planning to buy a Macbook Air with the base configuration, but was giving the RAM some thought. I was thinking of upgrading it from 4 GB 1600 MHz LPDDR3 SDRAM to 8 GB. With the student discount the upgrade will cost me an additional $90. I will be going to uni for life sci and will be be using it for work assignments, music, and maybe some small-time gaming. I currently don't really game much but maybe sometime in the future I may decide to play games such as LoL or Warcraft maybe? What I was wondering was that is it actually necessary to upgrade the RAM to be able to play these types of games without lag? I am fine with a little bit of low fps, as long as it isn't to noticable and stil fairly smooth. Maybe with like safari with music and a word processor and the game open, would the MBA be able to handle it effectively? Also, would the RAM upgrade be ineffective because of a "bottleneck" where the other specs limit the effectiveness of the increase in RAM? The rest of the specs are: 1.4 GHz dual-core Intel i5, Turbo Boost upto 2.7 GHz Intel HD Graphics 5000 128 GB PCle-based flash storage So overall, is it worth it? Will it make gaming significantly better, and more importantly, will 4 GB just be enough too? Thank you very much for reading that very long question! All answers will be appreciated!

Did you get a reply on that site?
Are you comparing 11-inch/13-inch MacBook/Air to 13"-15" MB/Pro?
A better idea would be to get the MacBook/Pro, since it has a better
processor and a higher RAM spec capacity, when or if upgraded.
More RAM will not be a bottleneck; a slow CPU processor & too much
demand could. Including video demand, and gaming is unlikely, too.
Check the specs at the Apple Store to compare MB/Pro w/ MB/Air;
even the basic MacBook Pro 13-inch without Retina has a fair CPU
and OK specs for most things; and you may be able to still upgrade
the RAM in that basic model (also has optical drive built-in) yourself.
See everymac.com and mactracker.ca for sources of specifications.
Good luck & happy computing!

Can someone recommend a strong macbook case that will protect my 13" macbook air?

i need a case (NOT a shell) that will effectively protect my macbook air while it is in my bag so it wont bedented or bent in any way. price can not be over £70 and it MUST BE VERY STRONG.
Thanks Guys.

I know it's a bit late, but I have the Hard Candy Bubble sleeve, and I absolutely love it. The rubber bumpers on the inside make me very confident in its protection level. http://www.amazon.com/Hard-Candy-MacBook-11-inch-Ultrabooks/dp/B004B8VIR6/ref=cm _cr_pr_product_top/180-8173085-4460503

I just bought a Macbook Air. I also have an external harddrive for which to transfer and save all my existing music from my PC. Will I have any troubles with iTunes recognizing where my music is located if I keep it on the external harddrive?

I just bought a Macbook Air. I also have an external harddrive for which to transfer and save all my existing music from my PC. Will I have any troubles with iTunes recognizing where my music is located if I keep it on the external harddrive and not save it on the computer's harddrive?

Just be sure to Follow the steps here to transfer your iTunes to an External Drive...
Backup iTunes to an External Drive
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1751

My macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

my macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Do MAcbook Air need any Anti-virus? If yes then which one you prefer?, Do MAcbook Air need any Anti-virus? If yes then which one you prefer?, Do MAcbook Air need any Anti-virus? If yes then which one you prefer?

Do MAcbook Air need any Anti-virus? If yes then which one you prefer?, Do MAcbook Air need any Anti-virus? If yes then which one you prefer?, Do MAcbook Air need any Anti-virus? If yes then which one you prefer?

This question has been asked and answered countless times.
See this thread for an answer.
Hint: The 'More Like This' box to the right of your post often has the answer to your problem.

I just bought new computer and redownloaded itunes. Will it erase everything on my iphone when plug into the new computer?

I just bought new computer and redownloaded itunes. Will it erase everything on my iphone when plug into the new computer?

Yes, it will.
Copy everything from your old computer, or your backup copy of your old computer, to your new one.

HT201210 My phone is telling me to restore it as it will not come on and just shows a plug into itunes sign...however there is an error restoring it. HELP?!

My phone is telling me to restore it as it will not come on and just shows a plug into itunes sign...however there is an error restoring it. HELP?!

You might try:
Placing your device into recovery (DFU) mode:
Follow these steps to place your iOS device into recovery mode. If your iOS device is already in recovery mode, you can proceed immediately to step 6.
   1. Disconnect the USB cable from the iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch, but leave the
       other end of the cable connected to your computer's USB port.
   2. Turn off the device: Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button for a few seconds
       until the red slider appears, then slide the slider. Wait for the device to turn off.
              * If you cannot turn off the device using the slider, press and hold the
                Sleep/Wake and Home buttons at the same time. When the device turns off,
                release the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons.
3. While pressing and holding the Home button, reconnect the USB cable to the
       device. The device should turn on. Note: If you see the battery charge warning,
       let the device charge for at least ten minutes to ensure that the battery has some
       charge, and then start with step 2 again.
4. Continue holding the Home button until you see the "Connect to iTunes" screen.
       When this screen appears you can release the Home button:
5. If necessary, open iTunes. You should see the following "recovery mode" alert:
6. Use iTunes to restore the device.
If you don't see the "Connect to iTunes" screen, try these steps again. If you see the "Connect to iTunes" screen but the device does not appear in iTunes, see this article and its related links.
Additional Information:
If you have a problem getting into recovery mode then try: RecBoot: Easy Way to Put iPhone into Recovery Mode.
Note: When using recovery mode, you can only restore the device. All user content on the device will be erased, but if you had previously synced with iTunes on this computer, you can restore from a previous backup. See this article for more information.

Will it hurt my Macbook Pro to add memory?

I currently have 4 GB of RAM in the Macbook Pro 15" mid-2010 and I just want to take one of the chips out and put in a 4GB chip in, making me have 6GB of memory. Will this hurt the computer's performance to not have equal amounts of memory on each side? I only want to upgrade because im constantly getting down to about 8mb's of ram and it slows the whole computer.

More RAM is always beneficial but you add more, Mavericks will use it the same way - all it can. This is by design.
If you are running programs that require a lot of RAM they will continue to do so. To determine if a lack of RAM is resulting in performance degradation examine the value for "Swap Used". If it is zero, the fact that you are using all 4 GB is of absolutely no consequence.
If Swap Used is greater than zero find out what app or process is so demanding. Some applications, the most popular of which seems to be Google Chrome, are notorious resource hogs that will slow down your Mac no matter how much RAM you install. Other "optimizing" or "cleanup" or "security" or "anti-virus" junk will also result in needlessly burdening your system.

IPod Touch 4th Gen will not connect to Macbook Air

Okay, so I've been trying to connect my iPod to my Macbook Air for a few days now to get some very important videos to transfer into iPhoto so I can get them sent to people that have been requesting them of me by their deadlines. I've also wanted to do some general charging of my device.
Here's the problem; when I connect the USB cord (Original one that I received with my iPod from Apple) to the only USB port the Macbook Air has, it refuses to connect, charge and/or synch with my computer. Up until about three days ago, it would connect and charge just fine with the computer, but now it is not.
When I plug the usb into my wall charger however, it recognizes and charges the device just fine.
I've had both my Air and iPod inspected recently at the Genius Bar, and there is NOTHING wrong with either device, so that is NOT the cause of the issue.
I want to know how to fix this, and whether or not buying a new cord would help, as I need the files on it to get to my computer ASAP. (Emailing the videos from the iPod is NOT an option as they're longer than one minute, and it will only let me email one minute clips.)

I brought all three yeah.
And the guy that assisted me hooked it to their computers and it worked fine, and then he hooked it to mine and wiggled it around for a couple seconds and it worked for him but now I can't get it to do anything at all.
And as I said he checked the hardware and everything of both my Air and the iPod and said there was nothing wrong with it.
I'll try buying a new cord when I get paid and see if that fixes anything.

Is it possible to play a quick time player video on a macbook air? I've installed Mavericks on my computer already

I'm trying to watch a video on my MacBook air trought quick time player but the video just won't open. Every time I try to open it it says: "QuickTime Player can't open "IMG_1916.MOV". To see if additional software is available that will enable quick time player to open the movie, click Tell me more. I clicked on it but it doesn't show me any helpful information, or at least I don't see it.
Thank you

Yes.
(125477)

Very quick battery drain on mid 2013 macbook air please help!

hello, my 13" macbook air is losing battery very quickly and i don't know why or what to do...
i tried to reset the SMC and deleting all my cache files... i have closed all running applications and the battery save preferences are on default...
I'm running OS X Mavricks and when i first installed it i did get about 14 hours of battery life with normal use, but now i only get as high as 6 hours.
what can i do to get things back on track?
thanks to anyone who helps!

1. Check the cycle count of the battery against the limit for your model. The battery may be due for replacement. If the power adapter is connected almost all the time, the battery may need replacing even though the cycle count is not too high.
2. Follow these instructions, or these for OS X 10.9 or later.
3. In the Energy Saver preference pane, uncheck the box marked
Enable Power Nap while on battery power
4. You can also try resetting the SMC.
5. Make sure your system is up to date in Software Update.
6. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service center.

Request quick answer! Will it hurt my Macbook Air to be plugged into a "Uni Pak II" which is a dimming power source?

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