Resampling a Photo?

I am starting to finally wrap my brain around these resampling and resizing concepts, but I still have a little confusion.
My main question is about upsampling.  Is it ever good to upsample?  And if so, how much is it okay to upsample without degrading your image.  And I am more talking in regards to printing a photo, not for onscreen so much.
Also, is downsampling okay when your resizing for print?  I know that downsampling is basically getting rid of pixels intelligently so it's not as bad as upsampling.  Because it seems that at times when you're trying to get your photo proportions (aspect ratio) the way you want, and you crop and such, you may have to upsample or downsample to get the size you want without changing the ppi.

Upsampling would be necessary when you want to print an image in which the print would need have a pixel dimension larger than the current pixel dimension of the image.
For example, 300 dpi (or ppi) is normally considered to be correct for a print up to 11 x 14 (or thereabouts).  So, a 14" print (long side) would require a pixel dimension of 14 times 300 or 4200 total pixels. This is in the range of a 12 Megapixel camera. If you have a smaller MP camera than that, or have cropped the image, you should upsample to 4200 pixels (long side) when you print at 11 X14.
Upsampling is always going to degrade the image somewhat. But in light to moderate amounts it's better to do it, than print at lower resolutions.
The rule is, when upsampling, you should do it it steps of perhaps 10% at a time. In Photoshop (or PSE) you would use, "Bicubic Smoother" to upsample, and "Bicubic Sharper", to down sample.
The industry standard software for hard core, heavy duty upsampling is, "Genuine Fractals", from "OnOne Software" Here's their product page;  http://www.ononesoftware.com/detail.php?prodLine_id=7  This software would be for poster size exploits, and large show prints.
Keep in mind that down sampling can be handy for creating computer wallpaper, 4 x 6 prints, web postings, and Email attachments.

Similar Messages

  • Photo Directory Structure

    I use XPlay for syncing a PC with the NANO -- and in looking at the hard disk - where do I place photos and what format (JPEG, OK?) ... in other words, what directory do I create to place photos within and at what level - root? ?
    Thanks for any advice.

    The nano display is 176 x 132 pixels, and the iTunes software resamples your photos to 176 x 132 pixels before putting them into your nano, probably in a propriety apple format where they are all "zipped" into a single file. This allows the nano to store the 25000 pictures specified, which if they were all 1.5MB files wouldn't fit.
    This means you're supposed to use iTunes to put photos into your nano for display on it's screen.
    However, you can use Windows Explorer to simply store the 1.5MB JPG photos on the nano as a storage device, however it won't be able to directly display these on it's screen, unless you previously used iTunes to get them processed.

  • Size of images edited in Photoshop

    When I select an image in Lightroom and edit it in Photoshop, the image size is 72.8M, 16 bits/channel, and 240px/in. In order to convert to a jpeg file, it is necessary to change the file to 8 bits/channel, but that reduces the size of the file to 36.4M. In order to submit my work to stock agencies, I need the file as large as possible, and up-sizing from 240px/in to 300px/in results in a loss of quality from up-sizing.
    Is there anyway to have photoshop open the file at 300px/in instead of 240px/in? In other words, how can I edit an image in Photoshop at it's largest original size?

    Forget file size in Megabytes. Forget PPI:
    Export your file at its native size, let's say 2000 x 3000 pixels, as a TIFF or PSD. Now resample the photo to meet absurd requirements of dumb agency, and then save out as a JPEG. Then you'll have your, say 16 x 24 at 300 ppi, through PS's upsampling.

  • Elements 10 and Canon ZoomBrowser

    I just upgraded from Elements 8 to 10, and I'm having several issues with it,  First, when ZoomBrowser (ZB) calles Elements 10, the image is not passed to Elements unless it is the second time from the same folder, I have to open the image useing the open command.  Second, when I save the image to the ZB folder, ZB takes 10 seconds or so to open the image.  Elements 8 did have either one of these problems.
    What should I be doing different??

    Hi Tom,
    Easy bit first: To get back to the Custom aspect ration, select No Restriction and enter sizes into the W & H - the aspect ration will change to Custom.
    The menu option Crop (under Image) acts in two different ways. If you don't have anything in the photo select (say hand tool is selected) then the menu item will work the same as the Crop tool from the toolbar. If you have used the Marque to select an area of the photo, the menu item will then crop to that area.
    Using the Marque/Crop method does not resample the image which is why the pixel size reduces and the quality looks the same as the original,
    When using the pure Crop tool, if the resolution is left blank then it should not resample the photo and should reduce the pixel size and maintain the image. What I think you have found is that when you select Use Photo Ratio it always does a resample. This causes the pixel count to stay the same and the picture quality to reduce due to PSE adding pixels.
    I always prefer to use the crop tool as there are more options like rotating the cropped area. The new overlays added in PSE 10 are great. I haven't had the problem with resampling before, mainly because I crop using either No Restrictions or a particular aspect ratio to match the output I am aiming for (paper size). As I said before, the experts on this forum have always recommended the Marque/Crop method because of the resampling problem. However, I now know what to watch out for when using the crop tool.
    Please let me know if your observations don't match up with my ideas above.
    Brian

  • TS2972 Screen Saver problem.

    Cannot access computer file "My Pictures" on Apple TV.  Getting message "There are no photos in this album."  This worked prior to a software update done about 2 weeks ago.  Have sharing on in itunes and apple tv.  reset username and password in both.

    I don't really know how photos work on the Apple TV2, I suppose if it was smart it would resample a photo to a few Kb, but it may well not. As the Apple TV only has 8 Gb of storage and presumably needs most of that for it's system and a movie, it doesn't leave an awful lot left for storing the photos, so if those photos weren't resampled and were a high resolution to begin with, I suppose it may be limited to a few photos.
    I can't say for sure that all my photos are displayed in the screensaver but there's certainly a lot more than 50, but saying that many of my photos are quite old and as such were shot with cameras that only did 2.1 + MP. I also wonder if using aperture instead of iPhoto might make a difference too.
    Other than that, I don't have much more to offer.

  • 300 dpi pictures

    When I open my photographs in Fireworks, they open in 72 dpi.
    After I modify them, I need to save them at 300 dpi. (I do not have
    Photoshop which will of course open the photos in 300 dpi if
    asked.)
    1) Do I lose quality when converting/resampling the photos to
    300 dpi in Fireworks and then saving?
    2) I know of two ways of converting to 300 dpi. One, I go to
    the Modify -> Canvas -> Image size and change it to 300 dpi.
    Two, I can open a 300 dpi window, paste the present image, and when
    asked say resample.
    Is one of these methods better than the other?
    3) Is Photoshop better at obtaining and preserving a quality
    300 dpi photo. Or can I stay with Fireworks (a program of which I
    am very fond)?
    Thanks!

    1)As long as you do not resample the image, the only quality
    loss is
    from resaving the jpeg file. Unless you are planning to print
    the
    images, changing the dpi has no effect anyway, so you may not
    need to
    alter it.
    2)Either will do the job, but the first one is faster. Just
    don't
    resample the image.
    3) Again, the concept of dpi is only relevant when printing.
    Changing
    dpi does not change the image file quality in any way, so
    long as the
    file is not resampled. DPI does affect print quality and
    print
    (reproduction) size.
    HTH
    Jim Babbage - .:Community MX:. & .:Adobe Community
    Expert:.
    Extending Knowledge, Daily
    http://www.communityMX.com/
    CommunityMX - Free Resources:
    http://www.communitymx.com/free.cfm
    .:Adobe Community Expert for Fireworks:.
    news://forums.macromedia.com/macromedia.fireworks
    news://forums.macromedia.com/macromedia.dreamweaver
    TresTria wrote:
    > When I open my photographs in Fireworks, they open in 72
    dpi. After I modify
    > them, I need to save them at 300 dpi. (I do not have
    Photoshop which will of
    > course open the photos in 300 dpi if asked.)
    >
    > 1) Do I lose quality when converting/resampling the
    photos to 300 dpi in
    > Fireworks and then saving?
    >
    > 2) I know of two ways of converting to 300 dpi. One, I
    go to the Modify ->
    > Canvas -> Image size and change it to 300 dpi. Two, I
    can open a 300 dpi
    > window, paste the present image, and when asked say
    resample.
    >
    > Is one of these methods better than the other?
    >
    > 3) Is Photoshop better at obtaining and preserving a
    quality 300 dpi photo. Or
    > can I stay with Fireworks (a program of which I am very
    fond)?
    >
    > Thanks!
    >
    >
    >

  • Can't get decent prints

    Hello,
    I print out many of my photos in 4x6 to give to relatives, or larger sizes to frame.  I'm usually not happy with the way they print.  I've tried printing at Walmart, Walgreens, RiteAid, and a local photo shop (these are about my only options where I live).  I have found that Walmart is by far the best, even much better than the local photo shop at about a third of the cost.  I ran one test last year where I had the same prints done at all four places, and Walmart was the only one that had rich colors as in the digital photos.  However, they often come out too dark to the point that they are unacceptable to me for framing purposes.
    So how do these print shops do their printing?  Is there some algorithm they run through to adjust colors, brightness, etc?  Is there anything that can be done in PSE (I use version 10) to lighten up photos in a separate copy that would be used for printing only - i.e. I am happy with the digital copy, but would like to make a copy used for printing only that might offset some of the darkening done by the print shops.  Any other advice on how to get decent prints?
    Below is one such photo that I like, but is too dark and not of the same quality when printed.  I usually apply several adjustments in PSE including shadows, highlights, midtones, levels, contrast, sharpening, and resizing to boost resolution to 300 without resampling,  The photo in the link is 800x600 pixels, although the ones I print are 4000x3000.
    Thanks.
    http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag49/dave0001/Wildlife/Fawn1IMG_1578resized_zps8ad3bbd 4.jpg

    It’s a common problem. Usually because of PC monitors being back lit and often set very bright. So the representation on the PC will be different compared with on photo paper. Nice image by the way.
    Most labs use the sRGB color space; so make sure you are saving your print copy with that profile. If you view your image on screen by getting down on your knees, and looking up at your monitor rather than from eye level, you will get an indication of how dark the image really is.
    I always make separate copies for print with an overall levels adjustment and with sharpening as the final edit, based on each different print size. I would suggest for this image moving the middle pointer to 1.75 but you may need to experiment with different settings. Make a test batch and compare them when you get them back from Walmart to see which works best and use that in future.

  • Are the photo files resampled at the placed size?

    Do I need to go in a resize all of the files in my site before uploading?

    Hello,
    Take a look at this related thread to check if this is what you're looking for: http://forums.adobe.com/message/5459995#5459995
    Cheers
    Parikshit

  • How do you find the pixel dimensions of a photo to embed in Illustrator CC?

    We recently upgraded our software from CS3 to CC. I'm having trouble determining the pixel dimensions of the photo I want to embed in Illustrator. In our old work flow, we simply clicked on the object in Illustrator, and then opened a new document in Photoshop, and it would retain the dimensions at our document size in Illustrator. It was then a simple matter to paste the photo into the box, position and crop and save as a PSD file and then place in Illustrator. That does not work any more in Creative Cloud. The object downsizes to 72 DPI while retaining the resolution setting. We need to keep our Illustrator files to the minimum, so embedding larger than needed files is not possible.
    I've researched a bit and I see others with similar problems, but I haven't seen a workaround or a way to determine the pixel size. Document info in Illustrator gives the 72 dpi pixel settings, even though the document is set to reproduce at 200 dpi.
    This is something that used to be so simple I didn't think much of upgrading. Now my workflow is horrendously long. I have to rasterize the entire graphic and then crop what is the inset photo. If there is a simpler way, please tell me. All the literature is backwards, about placing an already sized PS image into Illustrator. I need the other way 'round.
    Thanks in advance for any help.

    I think I have a workaround: Make sure the clipboard settings are on 72 by cutting and pasting a 72 dpi file in PS, as it seems Illustrator images are seen that way, no matter what the output resolution is. Click on Photoshop and start a new document. It will retain the proportions of the Illustrator image in 72 dpi. Then open image size and make sure the resample box is checked. Change the resolution to the desired, in my case 200.. Then place and crop your photo, and save the PSD file. Open Illustrator and place the PSD file. This works for me.

  • Adding Text to a photo...Need help

    I'm new to Adobe Photoshop Elements 7. I'm following the instructions for adding text to a photo, but I can't see what I'm typing. I can see the cursur, but nothing else. I can see the text in the Layer, but not on the photo. Please help.

    Check the font size in the options bar. If it's really small you won't see it.
    Look in your layer's palette and insure your text is in a layer located above the photo in the stack.
    You might also check your image's resolution in the Image Size dialog. I've seen a couple of posts where someone changes the resolution to 1 with resample turned off...then can't see the text because it's too small even when they have large numbers inserted in the font size box.

  • New PC, reinstalled CS4, photos appear blurry, but only inside of Photoshop???

    I recently upgraded to a new PC, on Windows 7.  I've finally finished reinstalling everything and getting things back to "working order".  But I'm noticing something very troubling.  When I open previously edited photos in Photoshop, photos that I considered "final" (meaning they were print-ready), suddenly appear blurry.  The same photos viewed on my website are crisp and look as I remember them looking...so it's not the monitor.  Which leads me to believe that Photoshop is doing something odd to these pix. 
    Anybody have any ideas as to why the photos would appear blurry, but only in Photoshop?

    OpenGL operation uses a smoother resampling, but if you're seeing it as "blurry" it could be that there are features configured on the GPU that suit gaming or something that are causing excessive blurring.  Normally the differences between OpenGL-based display operations and non-OpenGL are almost unnoticeable.
    Any way you could capture your screen with/without OpenGL and show what you're seeing here?
    Here's the same image screen grabbed at 71% magnification showing the OpenGL / non-OpenGL difference in display on a properly working system.
    If you're seeing more blurry images than the one on the left, then you have a specific problem you should work to get to the bottom of.
    -Noel

  • Can I change resolution of a photo without losing any quality, for Retina ready photos?

    Hi there
    I would like to prepare some photos for Retina display screens (not for printing) and was told that in order to do this, I need to increase the resolution of my images from 72dpi to 240dpi.
    Many of my original photos are 3000 x 1875 pixel size at 72dpi resolution. What I wanted to know is that if I uncheck 'resample image' in the 'image size' dialogue box and increase the resolution from 72dpi to 240dpi, will my image suddenly be Retina ready without ANY loss of quality?
    I find it hard to get my head around the fact that you can simply raise the resolution of an image in this way with no adverse affect to the quality.
    If anyone can help me with this, I would be very appreciative.

    eadenha11 wrote:
    One last question to clarify if I may: On a website where I have small fixed photos of 568 x 376px, what image size should I be uploading at to make this size of photo 'retina ready'?
    I had previously mentioned above (with a link to support) that images for retina should be doubled in size. With your required pixel dimensions of 568x376, ideally you should be making them 1136x752. In HTML, your image code would look something like this:
    <img src="img_1136x752.jpg" width="568" height="376" />
    If you wanted it to be fluid, you could then overwrite that in the stylesheet by adding something like:
    img.fluid {
         max-width:568px;
         max-height:376px;
         width:100%;
         height:auto;
    <img src="img_1136x752.jpg" width="568" height="376" class="fluid" />

  • Making small photos larger to be used in slide show

    I am using Photoshop elements 10 with windows 7 on my Toshiba laptop.
    I am trying to make a slide show of photos for my brother's funeral. The photos will be shown on a screen at the church and on a TV monitor at home. I was used to Photoshop 4, but had purchased but not really used Photoshop Elements 10 and I need help.  I am about 1000 miles away from home so I cannot go back to try to using Photoshop 4 which is not on this laptop.  I don't think I want to change (i.e. resample) the pixels, etc.
    I have put into order all of the photos.  However,  the photos are of varying sizes.  The photos taken digitally are fine.  However, I have a lot of photos take a long time ago for like 3X3 or 2X3, i.e. like in the 50's - 90's, which were scanned. Then provided to me in a variety of ways. Coming to me they are small on the page. ie like in one corner. I am not trying to shrink these photos.  I am trying to resize them larger.  And probably get rid of most of the white background. 
    Quite honestly,  I think grief is fogging my brain.  I had tried to look at the tutorials but they did not work when I tried it on a sample photo.  Please help!

    Image> Resize> Image Size is the way to go. You may need to resample though. I don't recall what resampling algorithms are in v10, but in v12 'Bicubic Smoother' is recommended for enlargements.
    I also have a fallback Scott Kelby (a prolific Photshop / Photoshop Elements author) tip from an early version of PSE that recommended gradual upscaling by 10% at a time to avoid 'jaggies'. It sounds weird but it often works.
    Note that for screen display you don't need high pixel per inch counts. 72 or 96 are typical common ppi resolutions.
    Cheers,
    Neale
    Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your children
    If this post or another user's post resolves the original issue, please mark the posts as correct and/or helpful accordingly. This helps other users with similar trouble get answers to their questions quicker. Thanks.

  • Can Premier Pro Do This...???...(need help w/ FAST photo montage!)

    well folks...
    i'm really in trouble
    i moved sony vegas (8.0) from my office pc to my recording/mastering studio's audio pc...(w/ it's quad IV cpu & tons of RAM)
    & now...after moving along quite nicely...all of a sudden the project video screen (lower right) went completely RED...& the project doesn't repond to ANY controls...!!!...seized up tighter than a duck's protuberance.
    (just like it did on my office pc)
    I rebooted the machine, but that didnt help
    so...i'll never make my deadline...on a very important dynamic photo montage i'm constructing for my brother's 50th wedding anniversay...so:
    I know premier pro is wonderful for movie editing/creating...but...can it do a dynamic photo montage...???...the kind where one photo image transistions to the next...(w/ music)...& if so...does it have great transition effects & fades & text features (for that job) such as scrolling titles, etc...???
    if not...can someone recommend me a program that DOES (in the vein of sony vegas)...???
    thanx,
    mark4man

    i got it...i got it...!!!
    so...this 1st screen shot is from an old scanned print; & you can see both pix X pix & document size:
    obviously if i uncheck Resample Image...i can't change the pixel dimensions...so I simply did this:
    so...is this now my optimum pixel dimensions for HD...(for that particular shot)...???
    AND...it's OK that the document size differed (down to 2.283" X 1.8") while remaining at 600ppi...for HD...???
    (see...i always assumed that, because there are a gazillion pixels on my 46" LED HD TV...I had to make my scan resolution as great as possible to fill that screen)...& you two are telling me that, because the pix dimension width is now 1080...that shot won't look pixelated (up-sampled) when the movie is played on an HD TV...???
    if so...i'm good w/ the info you've given me (actually, great).
    thanx a gazillion,
    mark4man

  • How can i make a photo that is 10 x 6.6 to 10 x 8 without changing the image in Photoshop CS3?

    How can I make a photo that is 10 x 6.6 to 10 x 8 without changing the image in Photoshop CS3?

    I could be snarky and say change the image in a different version of Photoshop, but NO...
    The only way to make a photo that is one size into another size is to change the image.  You have a few choices about how to change it:
    One way is to simply expand the height from 6.6 to 8 inches using Image>Canvas Size, using the default setting of having the image centered and leaving the background either black or white, your preference.  This will add background color to the top and bottom of your image.  This won't change the image itself, but it will change its surroundings.
    Another way is to resize the image using Image>Image Size, entering the new dimensions after turning off the aspect ratio lock (resample on).  This will stretch the image vertically, however, so it's probably not a good option.
    Finally, you could resize the image using Image>Image Size, leaving the aspect ratio lock on and resample on, and increase the height from 6.6 to 8.  This will have the secondary effect of enlarging the width from 10" to a greater width.  Then you crop the resulting image back down to 10" width, which involves losing some edge areas of the image.

Maybe you are looking for

  • Mountain Lion fails to deliver on its promises for older Macs

    For months, I have been anticipating the release of Mountain Lion primarily because of the AirPlay Mirroring feature. I have an early 2008 aluminum MacBook, and after all of the "Make sure your Mac can run Mountain Lion" advertising over the last cou

  • Ajx problem with jsp .not able to show  ajax response data in table rows

    hi evryone i m new to ajax .i m not able solve this problem .pls help if anyone understood my problem probelm scenario is like this: take a example of shopping page where a field amount changes every time (time interval) ,the amount data is coming fr

  • BPM - Transformation Step

    In one of our BPM scenarios, while defining <b>Transformation</b> step. I have defined the interface mapping in IR. After refering the interface mapping from IR, the source and target messages are read from the interface mapping. the values for both

  • Email program shuts down when I click on icon

    SSuddenly my iPad won't let me into my email. When I click on the email icon, I get a screen that looks as if it will pull up my emails, but then it goes dark and returns to home page.  I deleted both email accounts, shut down the system, started up

  • HT1848 "Cannot connect to iTunes Store" when synching iPad or iPhone?

    I recently restored my Mac Book Pro to factory settings and since then have been unable to sync without getting the above error. Wireless is working fine, all accounts are authorized and signed in correctly. Any ideas what might be happening to cause