Resizing still images

Just curious, if I import lots of still images into FCP without resizing them in Photoshop, is this a bad thing? Is there any visual advantage to cropping or resizing them in Photoshop rather than just resizing in FCP?
Thanks.

>1. Why is the maximum set at 1920 x 1080? Aren't there resolutions larger than this? Like footage from the 4k cameras?
This is why 4K is the limit in FCP...because Red is 4K.
But films are 2K...which is very close to 1920x1080. VERY close. Digital films projected in theatres...2K. Films shot on RED and projected...2K. No theatres have 4K projectors...cost prohibitive.

Similar Messages

Resize still images in Photoshop?

Hi there
So I'm using jpegs (say 4000 x 4000 ish) in a DVC Pro HD sequenece. Would you recommend re-sizing in Photoshop beforehand, or is it fine to let Final Cut do the resizing?
Im using Final Cut 7.
Appreciate any recommendations,
Richard

yes, do resize in PS. If you have no pans or zooms you can make them your sequecnce dimensions. For mild pan and zoom twice your seq dimensions should do. I believe FC has a max size for stills of 4000x4000 but I wouldn't recomend using anything that big for both performance and image quality reasons.

Large Still Images into PE - One Workflow

Everyone wants the highest quality that they can obtain when doing their videos. It’s natural to want the best. Well, when dealing with still images, bigger is not necessarily better, for two reasons. First, overly large still images can really tax a system and second, one is limited to the frame size of the video, so these have to be resized somewhere - this resizing can be in the NLE (Non Linear Editor) program, or in an image processing program like PS (Photoshop), which does a better job anyway. Doing this in PS, or PSE, will result in better resized images, and they are easier for the NLE to work with. Quality is as high as your Project’s Preset will allow, and you are more efficient, with fewer crashes, slowdowns and hangs. It is a win-win situation.
Here is my normal workflow when dealing with still images. This workflow is for NTSC 4:3 720x480 with a PAR (Pixel Aspect Ratio) of 0.9. If your Project’s Presets are different, use those specs to resize to.
Since I shoot my still images in RAW, I Copy my files from the CF card to my system and catalog these images by location, subject and date (if necessary). I’ll do a quick conversion and Save_As Adobe DNG for backup. I then process these RAW images in PS with the ARC (Adobe Raw Converter), correcting them and then doing a Save_As PSD into a sub-folder. All of this is in my still photo library.
Normally, I will edit these PSD’s to find the images that I wish to use in a Video Project, and will Copy the selected images to another folder. You’ll see that I work with a lot of Copies, so my original files are always untouched and stored elsewhere. This guards against anything happening to them.
At this point, I’ll decide how I wish to use these selected images in my Video Project. Let’s just say that they are all horizontal images, and are still full-size from my camera. As stated, my Video Projects are DV-NTSC 4:3 720x480 PAR 0.9. [Remember, your Video Project may vary, so you will need to plug in the dimensions for YOUR Video Project in that case.] I also will have done my Cropping on each image individually, to get them to 4:3 Aspect Ratio. I do this my eye and by hand, rather than via an Action, because I want full aesthetic control.
In PS, I have a set of Actions for Video. An Action is like a Script, but less powerful and less involved in the writing. As I have already done all of my image enhancements and additional processing before I did my Copy to the selected folder, I only have to worry about my Action resizing these selected images for use in my Video Project. My Action here is to resize to 720x480 with a PAR of 0.9, and I normally use the Action that does this with a particular resizing algorithm, Bicubic-Smoother (though I also use Bicubic-Sharper on occasion).
For the next step, I go to my folder structure (remember, this folder contains copies of my selected still images in PSD format), and create a new sub-folder "[Project Name]_720x480." Back in PS, I choose File>Automate>Batch. Here I set my Source Folder, my Destination folder and the Action to perform. In my case, it’ll be the Destination Folder, that I just created, [Project Name]_720x480, and my Action will be my NTSC 4:3 720x480 Smooth. I check to have the Open command by-passed, because I do not need to see this take place on my monitor. When I hit OK, PS grabs all files in my Source Folder, runs the commands of my Action and does a Save_As for all files into my Destination Folder. I can process hundreds of large images down to a great 720x480 PAR 0.9 via Bicubic-Smoother interpolation, in moments. Now, I’m ready to go. Last, I Copy my Destination Folder to my Video Project’s folder hierarchy (usually on another HDD), and then Import these processed stills into my NLE.
What if I need to pan on one, or more of these images, while they are zoomed out completely? I don’t have enough pixels in my horizontal dimension to do this. I am just filling the frame with my still. Well, if I find that there are such images, I go back to my folder with the full sized images in my still images library, and select the ones that need to be larger. I run another Action on these, but it’s one that resizes to something larger than 720x480, say 1000x750. Now, I have another Destination Folder with the name [File Name]_1000x750. I’ll Copy this over to my Video Project, and Import these into the NLE. Here, I can go to Project Panel and remove the 720x480 versions if I so choose, but since a Premiere Project file (.PRPROJ or .PREL) is only an XML database, I may just leave them. It does not contain any media files, just links to where they are on the system and to what operations are performed on them.
By doing my resizing in PS, rather than in Premiere, I have accomplished two things:
1.) I have better quality resized images, using the algorithms in PS, plus have a choice of several interpolation methods to work with.
2.) I have lessened the processing load on my NLE and on my system, while doing the editing
I get higher quality and lower resource overhead - hence my reference to "win-win."
Now, back to my aesthetic control. I do not do any automatic zooming or panning. If one allows the NLE to do this, then they will want to probably process all of their images to 1000x750 (remember, this is for an NTSC 4:3 Project, so you will need to calculate what YOUR Project will require).
The two programs that I use are Photoshop and Premiere Pro, but Photoshop Elements can do the same things, though the exact commands might be different. Premiere Elements will handle the resized still images, just like Premiere Pro and the only difference will be the terminology used when one wishes to Import the still images.
I also keep all of my images in .PSD (the native format of PS), and do not convert to JPEG, or other. If one’s camera shoots only JPEG, I suggest writing the Action to do the Save_As to .PSD, as another JPEG compression will cost one quality. Yes, the JPEG’s will be smaller, but remember we are looking for the ultimate quality, so larger file sizes are just part of that equation.
One does not have to deal with all of the Copies, as I do. However, this allows me to go back to the originals, or to the processed full-sized .PSD’s at any step along the way. There is only one thing worse than not being able to go back to an intermediate version with full Layers and Adjustment Layers, plus any Alpha Channels, and that is finding out that you’ve lost your original RAW and DNG backups! That’s why I do a lot of Save_As and also work from Copies all along the way.
Hunt

Your workflow looks good. I do similar, but use PS, in lieu of LightRoom. I also do DNG's for my archives.
Provided that one chooses a JPEG compression algorithm setting that does not do too much compression, I doubt that anyone, but the most very critical, could tell the difference in Video. Most of my tests on PSD vs JPEG have been for print. There, one can more easily detect the differences. Video "hides" some of that.
To date, I have not had a Project where the Asset size differences between equally sized PSD's vs JPEG's caused any slowdown, or problem. There could be a resources savings with the smaller JPEG files, but there is a tiny bit of overhead dealing with the JPEG compression. I have never tested this, so can only guess that the smaller Asset size of the JPEG would trump that overhead - just a guess on my part.
For me, keeping the images in PSD does save a tiny bit of work in my Action (basically one less operation to perform), but I doubt that one could measure that time difference, even over the automation of hundreds of images. Besides, it's only one additional line in the Action. My feelings on JPEG vs PSD is firmly based in my print experience, and I am probably being too critical with images going to video. When I move up to HD and BD authoring, I need to apply a very critical eye, to see if I can tell the differences on an HD TV. So long as one does not apply too much JPEG compression, the differences should be very slight, at the worst, and maybe not even noticed, at best.
I do minimize the impact of many files on my Project by sizing to what I need. If I will not be doing any pans on zoomed-out images, I size to my Project. For pans on zoomed-out images, I calculate just what I will need for those pans, and might end up with several groups of sizes, to accommodate each. Still, the vast majority will be sized to exactly what I need for the Project - very few extra pixels.
In my case, and yours too, I have my RAW, my DNG, my working Layered PSD's, and then my sized output. I always keep all working PSD's, as I might change my mind, or my client might change theirs, and I do not want to have to go back and redo work, if I still have those working files. I also do as little destructive editing, as I can, using Dupe Layers, and Adjustment Layers, whenever possible. If I can, I never Flatten, or Merge Layers, so I can make any/all changes at any time, and only have to do the resizing via the same Actions. That is basically a "one-button" solution, once I have made the changes required.
Good luck,
Hunt

Using still images with Final Cut (and the apple suite in general)

I have had a re-occuring and long term problem that has caused me many lost hours of head scratching and work arounds, and as of yet I have not been able to come up with a good solution.
Its to do with integrating still images with the Final Cut suite.
If I receive a high quality image from a client to use in their video and I then try importing it into Final Cut and animating it, it always ends up looking like a pile of ahem. Often I will get "swimming" lines appear across fine detail on the image, and parts of it will flicker as it moves across the screen. For instance, if I have a picture of some blinds or other fine detail (especially horizontal and vertical lines), when I add a grow and throw movement to it the detail will become very noisy - buzzing and flickering like mad.
I have found I can counter this by resizing the image in photoshop to a resolution closer to SD video (700w or 500h) - but I always end up losing detail, and the flickering and noise is only reduced, not eliminated. Other things that have helped are blur effects applied at a very low level, like 0.5 blur, so its not noticeable visually, but Final Cut seems to treat it differently and quieten the noise and flicker down.
However, all of these workarounds are ultimately still giving a reduced quality product.
Also, this problem is not necessarily constrained to Final Cut, I am currently fighting DVD Studio Pro because it is murdering the text quality in a stills slideshow I am creating - and in this situation there is no animation being applied. No matter what file type (psd, jpeg, tiff, png...) or size I output the text and images from Photoshop in, the moment DVD studio pro gets hold of it, it turns to cripe.
For a while I was putting it down to the fact that I usually edit in SD (PAL) formats, and there just wasn't the resolution available to reproduce fine detail. However, I do often see other people achieving pin-sharp fine detail on still images and text in SD formats (the Apple templates are a good example)
So, my question to you, oh great and high boffins, if you are dealing with still images and text, how do you do it? How do you work around any noise problems you have, and how do you produce those pin-sharp images (both moving and still) I see in other professional productions?
Quad G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

still images with too high a resolution will always cause problems. this is due to the detail of the image being finer than the scanline of the tv can display ... obviously this will caise the image to flicker as these details alternately appear and disappear as and when the scanline can display them. as you have discovered, the answer is to apply a very small blur, the effect being that the detail is spread by the blur such that the scanline can dislay it correctly.
text issues are often rooted in the same problem ... unless the text is placed very carefully (whole even number on the y axis) then the quality may be impaired due to the resulting interlacing/scanline issues

Automated Resizing of Images in Photoshop Elements 9

I recently upgraded my wife's Photoshop Elements from version 6 to version 9. However, there is one feature from version 6 that seems to not work in version 9. When she drags an image into a blank template (of any size), the image drags in to the template in the full size. So if the images are three times larger than the template, she has to resize every image after she drags them in which is a pain for her. Previously in PSE6, when she dragged the image into the blank template, the program would automatically resize the image to fit within the window. Then she could resize the iamge if she needed to. It seems that there should be a setting for this, but I am coming up with nothing. Anybody know of a solution to this?

You didn't say if your on mac or windows, so you may not be familar
with the elements organizer. The following workaround works on windows pse9,
if your on a mac it may also.
1. In the elements organizer, select (highlight) the photos you want to use.
    (don't open the photos into the elements editor, just select them)
2. Back in the elements editor, with the project bin open, choose
   Show Files Selected in the Organizer.
3. When you drag the photos from the project bin into your document, they should resize
   similar to pse6.
   If they are still to big, step back one step in the undo history panel from Transform the Frame to Place.
MTSTUNER

This is about the still image size changing from what I see on the computer monitor and what the burned DVD shows on the TV

I have Prem.El 12 and have used PE4 for years. I have a new PC that runs Win7Pro. The still images on the computer monitor are within the "safe margins". The still images after the movie has been burned to a disk are MUCH smaller on the TV screen. Is this an issue of 16:9 vs 4:3 ratios? My TV is 4:3. Can I tell PE12 to make the movie a 4:3?

retchemteach
Although I have seen your post of today in my Inbox Email Notifications, that post has not yet appears in this thread. It will probably will sooner or later. But, to keep things moving along....this is a copy of what I am seeing as your message of today in my Indox Email Notifications
Thank you for your patience in the time it is taking me to get back to you.
I am still trying to buy some DVD-RW discs and will hopefully do that in a
bit. Meanwhile, I have more info for you and some simple (I hope)
questions. If you want to insert your answers, that would be fine.
My camera (for stills and video) is set to the 4:3 ratio. It is capable of
being set to a 16:9 ratio if I wanted to do that. I looked in its TOOLS
menu and saw this info.
My TV is definitely a 4:3 TV. (I measured it with my tape measure and
divided W/L to get 1.33) The TV can show a 16:9 movie and just adds the
black bars on the top and bottom. Question: What will my old 4:3 movies
look like on a 16:9 TV whenever we buy one of those?
It seems to me that I want to set PE12 to the NTSC DV Standard you
mentioned.
I do NOT know how to “size your photos so that each has a 4:3 aspect”,
unless you mean doing that in Photoshop Elements, which I know how to do
(*see below)
I had NOT considered that I would need to watch the preset for the
‘Publish+Share’ step; so that’s good to know (I copied and pasted your info
for later use).
BTW, years ago when I had difficulties with my XP computer working on PE4
(had only 2 GB RAM), an Adobe tech told me to resize my photos * to have a
720 pixel width (the height would be automatically adjusted) to lower the
file size to something my computer could handle without crashing. (That
was back in the good ol’ days when Adobe support would actually talk with
their customers and try to help them in the first month)
My new computer has 16GB RAM. Do you think I still need to reduce file
size? One does lose some sharpness in the resizing process…..however,
these videos I’m making are travelogues and are for a fun way to view pics
and videos of a trip…nothing Earth shattering….and just a hobby to keep me
off the streets.
I truly appreciate the time you take to help me (and others). I was even
tempted to try to install my old PE4 on my new computer just to be able to
enjoy my hobby again.
My reply to the above....
1. If you camera is giving you 4:3 photos and your Premiere Elements 12/12.1 is running on Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 64 bit, then leave
the photos as is unless you have a lot of photos and each has pixel dimensions sizes way over 1920 x 1080 pixels that are giving your computer resource issues. If you have to down size them because of computer resources, then copy the photos to a computer desktop folder and also create an empty folder on the computer desktop.
a. Photoshop Elements Editor, File Menu/Process Multiple Files.
Process Files form Folder
Source - browse to and select the computer desktop folder with photos to be resized
Destination - browse to and select the empty computer desktop folder
Image Size
             Check Mark Next To Resize Images
            (no check mark next to Constrain Proportions)
            Type in Width = 1000 (set units for pixels)
            Type in Height = 750 (set unites for pixels)
File Size
           Check Mark Next to Convert Files To
           Set for JPEG High Quality
The above should work fine for a NTSC DV Standard project with a burn to DVD disc with preset NTSC_Dolby DVD (4:3 video).
2. With regard to the TV Set and 16:9 video....when you have the DVD-player attached to the TV, do you have the opportunity to bring up a display of menus with
controls for Picture and Aspect Ratio? From what you have written so far, it looks like the answer is no. I am not sure how your TV DVD
player will handle 16:9.
Best do a mini test run
1. Project preset set manually to NTSC DV Widescreen (please refer to post 1 link)
A few photos sized for 1600 x 1200
In the Premiere Elements project, use the Safety Margins inner rectangle for text placement
Publish+Share/Disc/DVD disc with preset = NTSC_Widescreen_Dolby DVD.
See what that looks like on your TV DVD player.
If you discovered that your current TV DVD player can be set for a 16:9 display, then I have a preferred workflow for
NTSC DV Widescreen which typically gives best possible results. Hints of things to come.
Please review and consider. Thanks for the follow ups.
ATR

Putting a still image in a menu frame

Hello,
I am making a DVD menu using a standard template. There is a frame in the template to take a still image. When I put an image in this frame only part of the original still is shown. I have tried resizing the image but to no effect.
Can anyone advise how I can get the whole image, or at least the part I want shown, in the frame?
Thank you
Jim

Are you saying that you're replacing an entire background for a template or that this is a template with a drop zone (Place Video Here placeholder)?
Most drop zone templates have an area you should be able to resize your photo to fit. Other templates may have foreground graphics that can get in the way and partially obscure the background.
Which are you seeing?

Still image with motion has flicker pulsating problem

I use FCP 5.0.4
I have read the many threads about this subject and am still not able to succeed in getting rid of the flicker/pulsating in a still image with motion.
I would say about 25% of the stills with motion have the jitters; all the rest look great.
The first thing I tried was
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Field Shift:none
as well as
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter min, med, and max.
Maybe 5% were corrected with this, but the other 20% still had the jitters even after using a combination of the above or by themselves.
I just burned a test DVD using a variety of the persistently jittery stills from my current project and although the jitters change a bit, they were still there so all of these failed:
1. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Upper (odd)
2. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter minimal
3. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter max
4. Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
5. Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
6. All the tricks together which means
Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace set at Upper (odd)
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Shift Fields: none
Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
I know this issue has been kicked around a lot and i know some folks are not happy that it has to be kicked around at all. But I am doing something wrong because my DVDs look very un-PRO. Would anyone like to talk me through this nightmare preferably with as many details as possible since I am obviously missing something critical.
Thanks in advance.

There is no 'secret formula'. It just takes thinking through the issues.
1. Set the image size for each image that makes sense within the context of your project. Going significantly larger than the displayed area of that image (including movement) is just asking FCP to do additional work to resize the image. FCP is less sophisticated at resizing images than Photoshop. Use Photoshop and your planning of the movie to get the images to the appropriate size.
2. Wasted effort and totally irrelevant- you could set it to 7200 dpi if it makes you feel better.
3. Good idea - be sure to knock down areas of pure or very bright white. These are the elements that will give you the most trouble.
4. Don't do this unless you want to throw away HALF the picture information. Deinterlace deletes half the picture and then photoshop recreates it through interpolation of the remaining half of the picture. Why do this?
5. Make your determination based on what works. If you have properly exposed and sized the material, the need to blur is greatly reduced. ONLY do it on the images that need it. Why degrade every image if you do not need to do so?
6. See number 5
7. Lay out your time line early, view the work on an external broadcast monitor and only mess about with the images that require it.
In the psycho business they have term for much of the referenced post - it's called superstitious behavior. Basically it comes down to "It worked before so we recommend it to everyone without regard to their situation" ... here's another example:
Many years ago in my architecture practice, we had one of the early 512k macs (upgraded from the 128k!) I needed to show one of the interns how to create a project budget spread sheet in Excel. Inadvertently I clicked on Word, said "oops", closed it and opened Excel and we went to work.
A week later I was walking by the computer and overheard the same intern explaining how to work with Excel to another architect. "First you open Word, close it, THEN you open Excel", she explained. When asked by her 'trainee', why do you have to open Word first, wouldn't it just be easier to simply open Excel? Her answer was just perfect, "Well, it works every time, what's wrong with that?" so it goes ...
good luck with your project.
∏

How to export a short film made with still images without loosing quality?

Hi,
I have been trying everything to make a short film, which is made with still images, to look decent once exported however it is a real challenge. Here are the steps I have undertaken:
1- I prepare the photographs and give them the aspect ration of 720p and whatever height as I try not to crop them too much at 300dpi. They look great in photoshop or capture one. I then save them as.tiff. All the images are RGB.
2- I start a new project in premiere pro cs4 and make it DV Pal 25fps.
3-I import the images and place them on the timeline. If they are a bit too big I rescale them. The images seem to look ok on the timeline although I seem to have lost the deepness of the colours.
4-I render the work area
5-I export it as quicktime, dv pal, quality 100.
My dilemna is that although exporting with quicktime, dv pal, quality 100 seems to give me the best quality compared to using quicktime animation, mpeg2, cinemak, avi..., the images are still not as sharp as in Photoshop and the colours look a lot paler and washed out. Also, when looking close to the screens you can see tiny squares on the images although from distance it's not too bad. When I view it from the exported file using Nero it's not too bad although definitely not perfect, as soon as I try to make a DVD and import it in Adobe Encore CS4 or send it by Dynamic Link, the quality looks horrible with images that look soft if not blurred and completely washed out.
I have now tried about t bu15 versions to see what 's the best I still have not reached the optimum quality and since these will be shown on big tvs or projected onto screens I need to nail it.
Would anybody have any advice please please please?
Many Thanks

My overall advice is to do that kind of work in an application that is designed for that. Give Photodex Proshow Producer trial a crack at it. I do a lot of work with stills, and that IMO PSP is the best approach. If you are intermixing the odd still, Pr may get you by. If you plan on doing a lot of that, try proshow, where the workflow and extensive features are designed for making high quality videos from stills that can be output to a wide number of formats and destinations, including color management with many of them( including avi). And, no need to resize. I know this won't solve your present problem.
Obviously, your attempt in Pr has not worked out as you had hoped. Maybe a bit more info would help. How are you rescaling them in Pr? That might well account for some quality loss. What is the original format and size of the images? What color management are you using in PS? Are you using any color correction or effects in Pr? Is your project interlaced or progressive?
From your description, you are not even getting the quality you should be getting from Pr IMO, though as Jim says, it is video and it will never look as pristine as it does in PS, but it still seems to me that something you are doing has degraded the work more than normally would be expected.

Resized & resampled image problems in Elements 5.0 on xp

I'm having trouble with resize & resample images (trying to make them much smaller) so I can place multiple images onto a PDFpage at predetermined individual specific physical sizes thereby avoiding resizing the images within the PDF document, of which I understand is a NoNo for getting it commercially printed. When I resize & resample an image and set the physical dimensions of the image it prints as a test print to the size I have set/want. The problem arises after I have saved the image & then try to insert it into my document. The saved image file when inserted is still or very close to the same physical size as before I resized & resampled it. - So what am I not doing or doing wrong. I have checked the file size in Windows Explorer and the actual file size is only a fraction of what the original is. The image has been reduced from 3200KB to 109KB, confirming I have at least reduced something within the file, just not what I wanted to. When I reopen the file in Elements and print it it is still the size I want, so why isn't it the right size when I insert it into a document. I have read the help files and don't understand what I am doing wrong, Please help.

Hi,
I suspect that the resolution of the file is getting changed instead of dimensions. So, the file size is decreasing but the dimensions are remaining the same.
Please confirm that you are resizing the image as follows:
1. Open the image
2. Go to Image -> Resize -> Image Size
3. Select the option Resample Image
4. Now provide the new dimensions in Width & Height
5. Click OK and save the image
Now try importing on the PDF page.
Thanks,
Tarun

Problem with photoshop automatically resizing placed images

Hi,
I have PS6. I have images that are 144x100 px. When I use file>place ps resizes the image to 108x75. I can't figure out how to make ps quit resizing my pictures. Anybody know?
Thanks

When Pasting, Dragging, copying and placing an image Photoshop will copy all of the image being duplicated original pixels to preserve the image pixel quality the image quality. If the receiving document has a different DPI resolution the image may look a different size in the receiving documents because of the number of pixels added to the document that has a lower or higher dpi resolution. If the image is being placed in if the image pixels exceeds the receiving documents canvas size. Photoshop may scale the smart object layer to fit within the canvas that depends on the users Photoshop's preference. All of the images original pixels are still there in the embedded object. In my Photoshop Collage Scripts I always transform all placed images to 100% size incase Photoshop scaled the placed image. For you can not get the scale percent Photoshop used. Once I know I have the image at 100% size I can use the layer bounds to get the actual number of pixels there are in the placed image. Once I know that I can calculate the scale I need to use to resize the image to fit the area being populated in the collage template. Once resized I center it into place and mask off any excess image pixels.

PE4 - Still images default to 4:3 in widescreen output

I have a 40 min project shot in widescreen with a scattering of still frames in a separate (foreground) video channel.
The still images have been re-sized in PE4 to fill the screen ie in preview and full screen they are OK. Trouble is when I make an .avi they default to 4:3 (with the movie visible around them).
How can I re-size them/change some preference so that they encode as in the preview?
PC
XP Pro
1Mb Ram
3.1 Ghz cpu
E-MU 1920

That's because the photos themselves are 4:3. Denis.
If you want your photos to display widescreen, you're going to have to size them all to 1000x750 pixels and then go to Canvas Resize and trim the height to 560 pixels, effectively chopping off some of the tops and bottoms of your pictures but turning them into 16:9 displays.

Moving Still Images in Monitor (Pro 7)

I recently re-purchad Premiere Pro 7, and am making a slide show for a friend of the family. I seem to recall being able to grab the still image in the "Monitor" and move/resize the image with the cursor. Now when I try, I don't seem to have any reactivity? Is there a feature or option I need to enable to be able to adjust the image?

Click the Motion effect in the Effects Control window first.

Applying effect to multiple still images

Hello, i am using adobe premiere pro cs3 and i'm currently working on a project using still images to create a movie.
The problem is that i have more than 600 images, all of them which need scaling. It's too late for me to resize them before importing, because my friend started working on the project and i'm currently completing the rest, so i'm already halfway through the project.
I've saved the effect as a preset, but i was wondering if i could apply it to all the stills at the same time? because applying it to every still image at a time is very frustrating. any help ? thanks in advance.

Ann's suggestion will work. Based on your looking for a preset, I think we are all assuming they are the same size, and you are applying the same resize to them.
> It's too late for me to resize them before importing,
I hear you, but is it really too late? By the time you sort it out, you could create an action in Photoshop and resize them all. Probably save on render time too.

Still Images

I'm working with still images and have a quick question. I have two images at 477 x 239. I am having trouble resizing these images. I have not been able to resized them so I imported into FCP and thought I would manipulate them there. When I load an image in the viewer, the image stays in its original aspect ratio. However on my NTSC monitor, it fills the frame and still looks decent. When I add it to the canvas, it goes back to the normal aspect ratio. The image on the NTSC monitor is what I want, but can't get that in the Canvas/timeline. Any help would be appreciated and if I need to be clearer or provide more info I will. Thanks
G5 Mac OS X (10.4.2)

Photoshop will resize anything and will do a better job (as Brian points out) than FCP. PS is designed to do this and has a very sophisticated interpolation algorithm. It is also a very basic tool for video work - let alone print. You should get it.
Still, if you don't have it and need to do this right now, it can be done in FCP.
Open the image in the Viewer. Go to the MOTION tab. Tear it off and put it to the side so you can see it and the video in the Viewer.
In the Motion Tab - look at the Basic Motion section- bump up the scale larger than 100 (you need to enlarge the image) Keep an eye on how it looks in the Viewer. When the Image is wide enough, go down to the Distort section. Open it up and look at the Aspect Ratio setting. Play with it until your image fills the screen.
Now, drag your file from the Viewer and place it on the timeline. If you park the playhead over it, the adjustements you made should go with it.
You can also do this adjustment interactively using the Wireframe mode in the viewer. The manual covers this bit.
Good luck.
x

Resizing still images

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