Room resonance, speaker resonance, or...?
Speakers are Blueebery SW-M23, and the room was even worse:) - (less :)))))... ...jocking aside: speakers are about 3 years old in the beginning I was satisfied with the sound (or not but I was not aware that I :)...), but as I crossed the headphones (audio tehnica-I do not know which model-are good:)) last year, when I checked some sound to speakers-that's the problem: bass kills! (I want to say is uncomfortably loud ...), and I noticed it, mostly on some circa 86Hz. Now, that we do not fit the frequency nor the natural resonance of a room because it is (basically) 2.6x3.1x4.1m, though, given that these are not realistic because the full dimensions of the slope, angles, beams, and one part is even 2.1m width (although that is not 86Hz, right ?)... I take the test (in audition)with all sorts of kick-mails because they are there somewhere freq., open each in paramet.eq(audition) walk-in and sweep the bass region and who clearly hear the day-86-s-kill! when I remove it (eg: -10dB, Q-and even quite narrow) - nicer sound, no buzzes, no blowing out woffer, and that work ... then edit another 1 test: in tone generator, a walk between 80 and 90Hz (I even assisted a girl who listen to different places in the room during that time and agreed with me in the impression-"the loudest 86:)) , and again say 86 MUCH louder than 82 and 88Hz, and others around ... at the end (latest test) let "things" (anything, such as a rock, grateful for this kind of thing does not matter ... whatever:)) and more stuff (not all at once) and in param.eq Toggle bypass every say 10 sec., and freq. is adjusted to the infamous (this time a rational Q type 1 octave and all - 3dB reduction) and again - confortable (and boy and girl :))... given that, as I said, "86-wire" does not fit into my "room modes" (though perhaps sins, and the complex is a matter of acoustics ... ) .. I wondered (and I wonder now and you) if the problem is perhaps the factory too steep highpass in the woofer around this frequency (and I'm looking for I found their "response" and those things ...) or something else, fourth ,...? then, care about your opinion of the equalizer as a general tool in this problem (yes, no, why, etc ...) and, after all, all you can think of in connection with this subject (and considering the little information that I have said (not a lot I'm drowning)).
I hope Im not too off-topic(off-forum)
SteveG(AudioMasters) wrote:
The other thing to bear in mind is that room modes tend to 'pile up' - so having a number of dimensions that can resonate near to the frequency that's upsetting you are often enough on their own to make one particular frequency resonate, even though there's no obvious reason for it. All room resonances have a Q value, and this affects the skirt side width of the resonance - so if you have real resonances at 85 and 89Hz, then the chances are that these will manifest themselves more as an 87Hz resonance anyway.
The art of designing rooms that are good for bass primarily revolves around spreading the room mode frequencies evenly - that's why some shapes work a lot better than others.
I think you probably need bass traps - most rooms do, as a rule. And I'll let you into a secret - it's virtually impossible to over-bass-trap a room...
I know that you have mentioned - I read about it, but I say that the most prominent resonance (and at any place in the room) 86Hz. The others are negligible, except for one more at about 2.8kHz - I would say that this is a resonance of the satellite (as it is too high to be aligned to the problem rooms (because it takes only frequencies below 300Hz, right?)) I found that when you let a cruise from 20Hz to 20kHz (with a period of 30s), and reduce some of 86Hz with 12dB (1 / 3 oct.), And 2.8kHz with some 6dB (0.5 oct.) - The problem seems much less - response is much flatter - and each complex audio (songs) that let the speaker sound more comfortable (better), especially those with pronounced low end
... While I do not get the bass traps, and this setting is very solid (although I know that "the equalizer can not fix a bad room"
Similar Messages
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Want to use Apple TV to serve existing 4 room wired speaker installation
I purchased a home with existing 4 room speaker system. All wires terminate in basement where previous owner had some type of media control center. Each speaker zone has control for volume in the various rooms.
My goal is to reconnect the speakers and use my Apple TV (previous generation) as my music source. I want to keep this as simple and cheap as possible.
I am assuming I will need an Amp/receiver and a multi-speaker splitter to plug all the speaker wires into. I know I can use the Apple Remote app on my IPhone to control it remotely.
What I would like to hear about from the community is
1. opinions on this set up. Is there an easier or simpler way to drive and control the speaker?
2. if this arrangment makes sense, has anyone done this and what equipment works best?
ThanksIf you have zoned volume control (ie control for each room) your simplest set up would be to join all four sets of speaker cables into a single output from an amp/receiver, you would need to turn the volume to zero in rooms where you didn't want audio but you will need to judge for yourself whether that is convenient for you or not.
Your other option is to use an amp with at least 4 separately controlled outputs or a multiplexer, this would be controlled from one central point and so would allow you to turn rooms off without actually visiting them. -
New feature Request: Room Correction!
Hey Creative!
Long time user and devoted fan of your products... remember back in the day when your sound cards had game ports for things like joysticks? I may have just about every generation of your cards made lying around in boxes just collecting dust. I update when you guys make something new.. always have... anyway...
I have a few computers around the house and office/studio- and they are all using the latest soundblaster z-series (z/zx/zxr) products. Unfortunately, I really just dont use a lot of what they are capable of any longer.
I've moved on. Really, all your card is doing for me anymore is create a Dolby Digital signal via TOSlink that I'm decoding with a receiver... I dont even use soundblaster's advanced features like crystalizer or the like any longer because it interferes with the processing I do further down in the signal chain. or At times, I just use the HDMI out on my video card to get full 7.1 out of movie files.. bypassing your card altogether.
Here's why: I use an outboard receiver.
I do this for one reason only: Room correction.
At the computer on which Im writing this ridiculously long post, I'm using the full suite of Audyssey XT32 tools pulled from a 4520ci hooked up to a fleet of active studio monitors and subs producing 11.2 surround. (I know I know.. overkill.. but its awesome. A sound you just have to experience to understand. Elsewhere in the home I use less expensive Onkyo's with Audyssey XT and XT32. I'm just completely sold on room correction as a supplement to speaker selection and room treatment for audio enjoyment.)
Point is... I have wildly expensive receivers on my racks that do nothing but process digital audio streams and do room correction.That's it. They do this fabulously, mind you; but I can't help but think Creative would be VERY good at doing this, too. at a fraction of the expense.
You guys already make a card that uses excellent DSP chips... why not add another dedicated to correction routines?
you are expert at room emulation and sound manipulation processing... why not use this expertise and use it to create room correction?
you already have mic ports... let's put 'em to use!
You make excellent software and have proven the ability to guide users in getting better sound quality... lets take it to the next level!
This kind of stuff is selling like crazy in the HT market...
I just can't see why Creative and Soundblaster can't get in on the fun.
Software implementations are too niche, hopelessly expensive, and fairly buggy in execution.
Even if you were to license basic room EQ implementations from a company like Audyssey or Dirac, the demand is out there. Just check the HT forums, the sound mixing forums...
It would be awesome to have a fully scaleable sound card from Soundblaster with this feature set: 2.0 sound all the way to 11.2 (or more) with expansion cards or whatever. Even a breakout box with RCA and/or XLR's for the serious audio nutjobs like myself... with all channels hardware corrected for room abnormalities...
Something like this would eliminate $1k's from setups like mine everywhere... and I'd like to see you guys wipe the floor with these other guys with what you could come up with.
Finally, Dolby Atmos/ Auro3d / DTS NEO:X / DTS MDA....
these formats feature higher channel counts and- in two of those examples, object-based surround...
The need for assistance in getting the most out of imperfect rooms imperfect speaker combinations is going to make room correction more and more the minimum expectation from consumers. Even in the PC market.
I'd love to see room correction and these next-gen formats supported.
Thoughts?Hello OMG,
Welcome to the Creative Forums and much thanks for your years of continued support! It would be amazing if you could share a photo of your extensive collection of Sound Blasters here - I'm pretty sure the original team would love to see that and take a trip down memory lane for a couple of moments.
Through the years, technology change and people's lifestyle and tastes change. That's not to say that some of the previous features and functions are dated. They were awesome features and tools for its time back then. But as you've rightly mentioned, we have to move on as well. Different strokes for different people.
Will we ever see room correction back into the cards? I don't know and I'm unable to comment. I shall leave this for the team to consider.
Thanks once again for your support.
Cheers,
Colin-CL -
Hi, I'm trying to export a song that I made in Garageband using mutliple tracks and a backing track. It sounds great in the headphones and all the levels are good. But, once I export and listen with my speakers, the levels are different, but sound good once I plug my headphones back in. I'm hoping to use the song in a video that will play through speakers, so I really hope someone can help. I'm new to Garageband, so I could use all the help. Thank you for your time!
What you describe has nothing to do with GarageBand.
Every speaker system or headphones have their own characteristics which can be measured and documented with a frequency response diagram. That describes that some speakers/headphones sound more boomy or less "bright" than others, instead of neutral.
There are a ton of other parameters that influence the sound:
Playing too loud (for the amp or speakers) can introduce distortion that alters the sound even before you recognize it as (nasty) distortion.
The same song sounds different when played back with different levels. This is a trick your ear is playing on you. It is documented in the Fletcher Munson curves.
The acoustic plays a major role. With headphones, you eliminate the acoustic environment compared to your speaker that reacts to your room and any room resonance.
The placement of your speakers. Putting them against the wall gives you a 3dB boost in the lower frequency range (depending on the room dimensions). Putting them in the corner adds another 3dB. Placing one speaker in a corner and the other one not is even worth.
The list goes on ...
People spend their money on all kinds of plugins and often forget that the convertes like microphone (sound comes in) and speakers (sound comes out) are the most important components (besides your ears). Investing in good speakers is a good start. When buying headphones, make sure they are real headphones and not fashion accessories like Beats.
Hope that helps
Edgar Rothermich
http://DingDingMusic.com/Manuals/
'I may receive some form of compensation, financial or otherwise, from my recommendation or link.' -
Loudspeaker Frequency Response
Hi all! I'm making a program to measure the frequency response of a loudspeaker. I'll be using a sweep to test the loudspeaker.
Particularly i would like the program to be like this, which is real time. How can i implement this in LabVIEW. This is the screenshot
Details about the plot.
First graph:
Shows a plot in real-time of a frequency sweep with a constant sine sweep amplitude of 1 V. When sweep is started, the graph shows a plot of FFT moving from left to right, with peak of FFT at maximum amplitude of 1 at corresponding frequency of the sweep.
Second graph:
Shows the plot of the Sound Pressure Level in dB versus freqeuncy.
Please refer to the picture and video link below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKC3ioWXG38, skip to 4:10Assuming your idea is to sweep a frequency into an amplifier connected to the loudspeaker, and measure the frequency response with a microphone:
You need to monitor the signal at the loudspeaker terminals to account for any non-linearity's in the signal generator and amplifier.
You need to know the frequency response of the microphone, this is difficult, and that is why calibrated microphones are expensive.
You need an anechoic chamber so that the results are not affected by any room resonances.
Your sound level plot is in dB (A). My understanding of the A weighting is so that the human perceived loudness is constant across the audio frequency range. If you are concerned about loudspeaker performance, is it worth discarding the complexity of this additional frequency response curve?
This will be a difficult project. Please let us know how you get on. -
Advice on Accoustic treatment...
Well, for my bday next week I'm buying some accoustic treatment for my room. I was looking at just getting a couple boxes of the studio wedgies or possibly the Auralex Alpha-DST packaged kit:
Alpha-DST Kit:
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/RoomDSTAlBur/
Or Three Boxes of the Wedgies:
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Wedgies/
Can anyone give any insight as to what might be a more economical choice? My room is a 10x10 box with a fairly large window on the left side of my listening station and a door and closet on the right side of my listening station. I don't want to spend $400 if I can really get what I want just by spending $300 or even just $200 worth of wedgies. Anyone have any past experience with this?Nikki,
Thanks for the props! Ready Acoustics is making the acoustic DIY experience even better, easier and much, much cooler. We have 2 new products that will be released this month that are gonna make how you treat the acoustics of your room better, waaaaay cooler and more affordable than you'd expect.
Stop by, or give us a holler. We offer FREE acoustics advice with no "sales treatment".
Know this however: Acoustic treatment is not complicated and you can treat just about any critical listening environment yourself without buy premade acoustic panels or bass traps. Here's how you do it:
Get some Owen's Corning 703 or 6-8lb density rock wool.
Wrap it in a good quality fabric that will hold in the insulation fibers.
Secure the fabric around the acoustic insulation by stapling it together at the back, or using some 3M 707 Super adhesive spray. You find it any hardware store, Home Depot, Lowes, Target, etc.
Straddle vertical corners in your room first. Try to treat the corner from floor to ceiling if possible. This will do a lot to control room resonance and trap offending bass modes that cloud and smear your sound. Next, treat your side walls and in front of your listening position. Then, treat the area over head (ceiling, etc).
You can secure your DIY traps to walls and ceiling using a number of methods. Zip ties (cable ties) picture wire secured through the fabric, etc all work. Even standing your home made acoustic panels in corners and on the floor facing you will work well. Mic stands work great for vocal booths.
Making your own traps is a little work, but the cost savings can be DRAMATIC and so can the effect on your room.
You do not need our traps or DIY options or any other manufacturer's products to effectively treat your room, you can do it yourself and the same or better results in many cases.
I'll be posting a video and picture tutorial on how to make your own bass traps and HF absorbers at our website, using commonly found materials.
Stay tuned!
Thanks again,
Joel DuBay
Ready Acoustics LLC
http://www.readyacoustics.com
http://www.basstraps.net
MacBook Pro 2.16/ 2GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.9) TREAT YOUR ROOM FIRST, so you can hear the "truth"
MacBook Pro 2.16/ 2GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7) My machine is slow.... -
Help Creating a Roaming Network w Sonos
Hi all,
I have a networked 2 story and 1 separated cabana room. The smart panel DAS doesnt work - so I have the Comcast cable modem with 100 Mbps Service in the smart panel (SP) connected to a Netgear Bridge, and the networked cables to the rooms I need connected to the bridge.
Here is my current configuration:
SP to Netgear Bridge
4 Network Cables from Bridge to: Master Bedroom (Airport Extreme N as my base), Office, Living Room, Cabana Room (Cabana room is 60 ft away from main apartment, and 60 ft, 1 floor below, and 1 60 x 20 patio away from AEBS)
19 WiFi devices actively on network
Sonos system running off Mac Mini in Office off WiFi from AEBS, Speaker in Living Room and Speaker in Cabana Room
Cabana Room speaker disconnects frequently from Sonos as the WiFi seems to get lost traveling across the 60 x 20 patio
No internet in Cabana Room - which is a critical issue as I commonly work out there and PS3 is there
I tried to setup a completely separate network - but there are 2 issues with that....I commonly dropped my connection because one or the other would be stronger and it just wasnt working...the second is the Sonos speakers need to be on the same network. I have tried extending the network - but the signal ***** and cant hold a VPN connection, much less even attempt to play PS3. I have connected the network in the wall to the Airport Express and used the same network name - and I lost all connectivity for 24 hours and somehow completely disabled my Comcast phone service forever - I am assuming because of conflicting IP addresses/NAT issues.
I have 2 Netgear Powerline adapters and an Airport Express in my arsenal. Because the networked rooms are not coming from the AEBS, but from the bridge in the SP - I am guessing that if I use the powerline adapters (one from AEBS) to run a network cable to the Airport Express might be the way to go - but before I muff anything up again and have to create a whole new network - I would like advice.
Confused yet? Thanks in advance for your help.bump......
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Airport Express/Apple TV Support?
Hey,
Have been searching through the forums but unable to locate any information around support for Apple TV With Aiport Express
In short, I have an iMac, MBPro, iPad, iPhone 4 and Apple TV. Just moved in to a new flat and looking at how to get a multi room audio set up going on.
If I get the airport plugs, I can jack speakers in to these thats clear, but can I stream audio from apple tv or better yet just my tv so I can get a surround sound set up in addition to the wireless music playback?
ThanksGwames
Just worked on a similar situation.
Client has iPad 2, Mac Book, Airport Express and Apple TV
You're looking to get Multiroom so you might want to consider this link:
Air play Multi Room Audio Speaker
Here is some other information on Whole Home Audio
And here are some tips and a video on Apple TV
Just to let you know, Apple policy wants to make sure you know by visiting the links we might benefit by your visit such as you might decide to come back or you might tell friends and we could even profit somehow.
Post any other questions you have.....and check out the video at the bottom of the Apple TV link, it has a suer short video -
I tried to create an Aggregate Audio device using Tiger's Audio MIDI Setup under /Utilities
I wish to use the aggregate device to broadcast iTunes music through my desk speakers and my Griffin RocketFM fm transmitter to my living room stereo speakers.
I've set up the Aggregate device with multi-channel, Quadraphonic sound. I can even verify that each channel (left speaker living room, right speaker living room, left speaker desk, and right speaker desk) will receive sound by clicking on the speaker icons in the Audio MIDI Setup application.
But when I select the Default Output device to be this new aggregate, only my desk speakers produce sound.
What is going on here? Why can't my RocketFM send sound to my living room speakers via the aggregate device, but it can if I send sound to just the RocketFM? Has anyone else had this problem in 10.4.3? I just bought Tiger, more or less for this functionality (everything else was gravy to me) and it doesn't work as I'd hoped. Any help?Ok David
I don't pretend to be an expert here but this is what I've found out from my limited experments.
1. There is no "10 channel limit" I was able to use the 410 and a USB audio device to get 12 channels of output.
2. I don't think the system was designed to do what you want.. send the same signal to more than one output at the time.
3. I think the system was designed to aggregrate interfaces for multi channel use... 3 stereo interfaces for 5.1 surround.
Whatever decide you added FIRST to your aggregrate device is the one that gets a stereo output. So if you added your RocketFM to aggregrate device FIRST, it would get the signal, but not your 2nd interface.
If you had a 4 channel source, then all for speakers would work, but each would get only one of the four channels.
I'm guessing that the only speaker setup you were able to select was either stereo, or quad, since (and I'm guessing here), you only had 4 outputs to use. If you had only 4 outputs you couldn't select say, a 7.1 channel setup since you don't have 8 channels of output.
Notice on the speaker set up that you cannot send any channel number to more than one locaton.
Channel 1 and 2 = the main stereo channels.
iTunes is stereo, not multi channel, so the L/R output of iTunes corrosponds to channel 1 and 2 on the speaker set up.
Now, I agree it seems like you SHOULD be able to set it up like you want.... seems like an easy thing to implement, but from what I can see, either there is a bug as you've suggested, or it was not designed to operate that way in the first place.
One other note, adding the interlan audio interface didn't give me any more outputs for some strange reason..
Using the 410 and the internal outputs only gave me 10 outputs
Using the USB audio device and the internal outputs only gave me 2 outputs
but using the USB and the 410 gave me 12... go figure.
Under no circumstances could I get my Pro-Tools Mbox to show up in the aggregrate editor, tho it does show up in the sound pref pane. -
Ok Experts-why is the wav getting smaller? it didnt in 1.5
ok experts-quick questions
in adobe audition 1.5 in multitrack one i would add an instrumental of a beat
on multitrack two i would record my vocals
when i saved these together the song wave would look like it should-with it slightly bigger than the orginal instrumental on multitrack one
because it now had that plus the vocals added to it
well now on audition 3 - when i save the vocal with the instrumental-the final wav becomes much much much smaller than the original
multitrack one instrumental.
Does anyone know why this is?>...just curious much like the time I was hitting that hornets nest to see what was inside...
Okay, to perhaps satisfy a bit more of your curiosity, here's the panning hornet's nest (modified from my original version, which I finally discovered, and with a bit more information):
So what happens if you pan mono signals to the centre of the stereo sound field? Let's just consider loudspeakers, as this is the most common requirement to get right.
To get a result that sounds as loud in the centre as it does at the edges, in terms of electrical adding of signals, you need to have each side of the stereo signal outputting half of the voltage - and this would imply that the pan pot should drop the level of each signal 6dB, and not 3dB at all, like the only option we have in Audition. But, in a normal room, with a reasonable degree of reverberation, it's the acoustical power of the summing signal in the centre we have to consider, and it's this implies that a 3dB drop is what's required - and this is pretty much the only reason that we have it set as it is. But it's more complicated than that; with loudspeakers you get mutual coupling below about 100Hz - and this augments the power coupling by about 3dB... which I'll return to shortly.
And there's more. If you record a voice talking, and pan it across the sound stage in stereo with a -3dB drop in the centre, you will get a voice that moves across the field at the same perceived level all the way. But if you reduce the result to a mono signal, you will get a 3dB rise in the signal level as the speaker passes the centre (only now it's in mono, so you can't tell) - and that isn't right at all. This means that in practice, any mono listener to a radio play recorded in stereo is going to get level differences that were not intended.
I don't think that anybody ever does what I'm going to mention next, but if you did, you'd realise the other problem here, and that would be the effect on a bass guitar if you panned it. With this, you get more LF when it passes through the centre position, because of the mutual coupling effect below 100Hz, so that's not good either (but you are going to get a degree of this, whatever you do, in fairness). So now, the pan pot has altered the EQ as well!
And it's all of these considerations that tend to cause manufacturers to compromise on 4.5dB as a centre-drop - because at the worst, over most of the frequency range, you are only going to get a 1.5dB error. But this is arbitrary; to a degree, the amount of effect you get from this is room and speaker dependant, and it also varies with the distance apart of the speakers. And it's different again with headphones, just to make it even more confusing!
I should mention, before anybody points out that in an anechoic space, the acoustic sum on the centre plane of the speakers is the same as the electrical sum, that I'm aware of that - and just how many people do you know who monitor under these conditions? Virtually all normal spaces will acoustically couple the bass end, but most significantly, the aforementioned condition only really holds true for anybody positioned absolutely centrally between the speakers.
So I'd say, one way or another, that there are good grounds for having rather more options available for the panpots than we have at present. And yes, this really is a can of worms. -
AppleScript error with iTunes: Can't get window 'iTunes' of class pcap ...
Hi there. I'm working on a script that posts iTunes track names to Campfire based on the AirPlay device in use. I've been getting a "Can't get window 'iTunes' of <<class pcap>> 'iTunes' of application 'System Events'" and was hoping someone might see an obvious answer. The error pops up randomly. Some machines receive the error much more often than others. Here's the code:
global current_track
global last_track
global campfire_token
global airplay_device
global campfire_room
global current_device
(* Begin user defined settings ************)
set campfire_token to "123456" (* Your Campfire API authentication token *)
set airplay_device to "Apple TV" (* The name of your AirPlay device *)
set campfire_room to "https://yourorg.campfirenow.com/room/123456/speak.xml" (* The Campfire room you'd like to post to *)
(* End user defined settings *************)
set current_track to ""
set current_device to ""
set last_track to ""
on idle
if application "iTunes" is running then
tell application "iTunes"
if player state is playing then
tell application "System Events"
tell application "iTunes"
set minimized of front browser window to false (*This AppleScript can only function when iTunes is not minimized. *)
delay 2
set visible of front browser window to true
delay 2
set current_track to current track
end tell
delay 2
set current_device to the description of button 8 of window "iTunes" of application process "iTunes" of application "System Events"
end tell
delay 2
if current_track is not equal to last_track then
if current_device as string is equal to airplay_device & " AirPlay" then
tell application "iTunes"
set current_track to current track
tell current_track
set trackName to (name)
set artistName to (" :: " & artist)
set albumName to (" :: " & album)
end tell
set track_info to (trackName & artistName & albumName) as string
(* Replace apostrophes *)
set search_string to "'"
set replacement_string to "'"
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to the search_string
set the item_list to every text item of track_info
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to the replacement_string
set track_info to the item_list as string
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to ""
(* Replace quotation marks *)
set search_string to "\""
set replacement_string to """
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to the search_string
set the item_list to every text item of track_info
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to the replacement_string
set track_info to the item_list as string
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to ""
set shellCommand to ("curl -u " & campfire_token & ":X -H 'Content-Type: application/xml' -d '<message><type>TextMessage</type><body>" & track_info & "</body></message>' " & campfire_room)
set shellCommand to shellCommand as string
do shell script shellCommand
(*display dialog shellCommand*)
(*log "Posting to Campfire:" & shellCommand*)
end tell
delay 2
end if
end if
set last_track to current_track
end if
return 1
end tell
end if
end idle
Thanks for your help. Any suggestions are appreciated!well, for information's sake, the cleaned-up script looks like this:
(* Begin user defined settings ************)
property campfire_token : "123456" (* Your Campfire API authentication token *)
property airplay_device : "Apple TV" (* The name of your AirPlay device *)
property campfire_room : "https://yourorg.campfirenow.com/room/123456/speak.xml" (* The Campfire room you'd like to post to *)
(* End user defined settings *************)
global current_track, last_track, current_device
on run
(* init at runtime*)
set current_track to ""
set current_device to ""
set last_track to ""
end run
on idle
if application "iTunes" is not running then return 60
tell application "iTunes"
if (player state is not playing) or (current track is equal to last_track) then return
set last_track to current track
set minimized of front browser window to false
set visible of front browser window to true
set current_device to my getDevice()
if current_device as string is not equal to airplay_device & " AirPlay" then return
set track_info to my mungeText({name, artist, album} of last_track, "", "::")
set track_info to my mungeText(track_info, "'", "'") -- Replace apostrophes
set track_info to my mungeText(track_info, "\"", """) -- Replace quotation marks
set shellCommand to ("curl -u " & campfire_token & ":X -H 'Content-Type: application/xml' -d '<message><type>TextMessage</type><body>" & track_info & "</body></message>' " & campfire_room)
do shell script (shellCommand as string)
(*display dialog shellCommand*)
(*log "Posting to Campfire:" & shellCommand*)
return
end tell
end idle
on getDevice()
tell application "System Events"
tell process "iTunes"
return description of button 8 of window "iTunes"
end tell
end tell
end getDevice
on mungeText(itxt, stxt, rtxt)
set tid to AppleScript's text item delimiters
if class of itxt is text then
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to stxt
set itxt to text items of itxt
end if
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to rtxt
set otxt to itxt as text
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to tid
return otxt
end mungeText
I'm positive there's a better way to check if AirTunes is the active device (maybe by seeing if the current playlist is a device playlist, and checking the source name?), but I don't have any way to test that. -
WAG120N - Can't see wireless network
hi,just bought a linksys Wireless-N Home ADSL2+ Modem Router (WAG120N).... but the sad part is the wifi range isnt visible in my room, earlier i had a linksys Wireless-G ADSL2+ Gateway ...(WAG54G2),and earlier there was wi fi coverage in my room, technically speaking N wireless should provide more coverage than G wirless, but here the case is just the opposite. and i`ve placed the new modem exactly where i had placed the older one, what could be wrong??
Hi,
I`ve tried all the channels possible.But still the wireless coverage is poor,.currently i`m on channel 6.My neighbours wifi which is one block away(approx50 metres away) and runs on G radio gives coverage in my garden area.But my own modem which is N radio band and should be giving 4 times more coverage,gives zero coverage in my garden area or any other area the moment i move 250 sq ft away from the modem.I`ve tried placing the modem in various corners of my house.Once i placed in the verandah as well.But still when i move at some distance the wi fi connection is lost and my neighbours wifi is in range.Currently i`ve shifted the modem and have placed it close to a window inside my bedroom.Even when i go and stand outside the window the wireless sginal drops coniderably whereas my neighbours wifi which is a block away and is a G radio wireless gives me better coverage.All my wifi devices are N compatible.Still the problem occurs.Mostly i use my ipod4 and my vaio laptop which are both n wireless devices.MY brothers room which is just above mine shows zero coverage even though i`ve placed the modem at the window.Kindly provide a solution. -
HTML5 MP4 Codec Settings for Safari 5.1.5
Hello all,
I am having a problem with HTML4 MP4 h.264 videos in Safari 5.1.5 only running under Lion. Does anyone have any exactly specifications for compressing videos that will play in this version of Safari? Also, if you have sucessfully exported videos for 5.1.5 what software are you using to encode? I have tried several options (After Effects, QT7 etc) and not had any luck. Thank you!Getting mp3 music out of your 4 satelite speakers and center channel requires either enabling the X-Fi CMSS 3D Sorround setting in your Audio Console or, alternately, if using your X-Fi card with an external Decoder, you could (if available on your decoder) enable Dolby PLII Music enhancement or X2 Stereo enhancement. I personally prefer the results from enabling CMSS 3D Surround and then adjusting my center channel for an even sound stage. Crystalizer Mode: In general, 24-bit Crystalizer produces crisper high frequencies, punchier mid-range percussion and note onsets, and stronger kick bass hits. I'm not sure that I would use the Crystalizer Mode as a substitute for good EQ settings but perhaps in conjuction would be the best approach. Depending on the 5. speaker system you have, Base Redirect shouldn't have to be used unless your satelite speakers and center channel are playing Bass frequencies that really should be assigned to the Sub-woofer. Some speaker sets and amplifiers have bass redirection feature i.e. you do not need discrete 5. signal to hear the sound on the subwoofer. Such sets always output bass - even if you connect a normal stereo source. Again, however, it is possible that if you have an analogue speaker set that does not support automatic Bass Redirection via the amplifier, then you would have to enable Bass Redirect at the sound card level in order to redirect the lowest frequencies to the subwoofer. I do not have to conduct a Bass Redirection, however, not all systems are equal in terms of functionality. The best settings for a 5. system are really contigent on the room size, speaker type and placement, room wall materials, amplifier type, content played (movies, music, spoken word., etc.) and, listeners personal preference. Personaly I would run the supplied Speaker Calibration utility and when you have the sound you personally enjoy, stick with it. Best advise I can offer to be perfectly honest. Hope this helped.
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Is the rumor ture that BB is discontinuing the Playbook?
Can anyone from BB marketing confirm to the loyal users of the Playbook that this is nothing more than a load of bunk?
I love the Playbook and want to upgrade to the 4G model, but only if I know that BB is going to stand behind the product and will support it and not fall victim to the iPad/Android panic that these are the only tablet devices.Well, like most CEO's in the board room they speak of nothing that they know of. While it is true that smart phones will become different devices, with larger screens and more features like those found in tablets and PC's, the smartphone will NEVER replace the tablet, just like the tablet will never replace the PC.
Tablets have their place and continue to get better, with more functionality, greater processor speeds and larger storage. But the more I see people using tablets the more I see them adding a keyboard to it for greater functionality and use. Typing for long periods of time using the onscreen keyboard of any tablet grows tiresome, but add a regular keyboard and you're right back to a laptop type device.
Smart phones are great and serve a purpose, but for conducting business all the time, they are not suited for it. Even the new z10 or q10 devices. I got to try them out on Thursday at a special BB Release Party on the devices. I can't wait to trade my old Curve 9350 and get a new z10, will need to change carriers to Verizon if I want it as Sprint is only going to support the q10. I like the keyboard aspect, but I like the larger screen of the z10. But with large hands the portrait mode keyboard is way too small just like the iPhone.
So ultimtely there is no single device that you can use for business that will give you everything that you need.
I just hope that BB does not fall to the masses and throw their hands up against the Apple iPad. BB was the 1st tablet made with true multitasking capabilities and the small 7" form factor. Apple made their first tablet device as a 10" device, only to now come out with the iPad Mini. The iPhone is still the small size it was when it came out years ago. The next itterarion of the iPhone will be made larger to match the true industry innovators. Samsung has a great smart phone with a large screen, just as the z10 does, but where is Apple? Still using the same little screen. -
Computer Screen tremble and shakes
I have powerpc 533 running 10.3.9
Here is what i have done...
bought new 19inch ( VIEWSONIC 19" G90F)
replace video card (ATI RADEON 7000 64MB AGP)
Change the cables..
change the location three time ( now set-up in dinning room, nothing in this room no speaker)
lower the refresh rate from 75 to 70
turn off cell phone....
I don't have money for new machine I can't think of anything else>
Power mac G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)
Power mac G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)Lowering the refresh rate will not help, the 75hz is best for most monitors. The shaking you discrible is a result of the card getting hot, and its not a problem with your machine. I had this problem with my Radeon 8500, its fan was failing) so I just got a cheap $5 PCI slot cooling fan, put it below the video card and the problem was no more. Also there was no Mac Radeon 7000 with 64MB VRAM so you have a PC card with flashed ROMs which wont help matters any.
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