Rubber beneath the rMBP 15" screen tear

I noticed the tear on the rubber beneath the screen recently when i flipped over the rMBP.
Will this issue cause any trouble in the near future?or it is just some cosmetic issue?If it's not something serious,then I don't want to go through all the hassle to get a replacement.Just got this mac few days ago.

while it's just a cover - over time however, when your macbook is running hot - that tear could get little tear could become a larger one. under that cover are some flat cables that goes to your screen.
it might not be an issue right now because it's just a little tear, might not be an issue a year from now - but why take a chance when it becomes an issue after your warranty has expired?
in the end - it's all up to you - if i were in your shoes - i would take it and ask for a replacement - you paid so much $$$ for your 15 Inch Retina - you should in turn get something that is in mint condition.

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Screen Tearing in games

Sorry in advance for the awkward setup I suppose. I use arch and and xmonad with an nvidia GPU and the official NVidia drivers. I want to do more of my gaming in Linux, but right now whenever I launch a game (mainly from Steam) I get pretty severe and constant screen tearing.
The main game I'm testing with is Crusader Kings 2. I am mainly running it in windowed mode - fullscreen mode seems to sometimes just show me a black screen.
I have gone into the Nvidia settings and made sure that the display I'm playing on is the primary display. I'm not sure what next steps to take.

brebs wrote:
filk wrote:a tear that slowly moved from top to bottom of my screen
Have you tried e.g. ExactModeTimingsDVI
I tried it just now, and it didn't help. This did tip me off to the xorg.conf file, and now I believe I may know the problem.
I have two monitors hooked up, that "nvidia-settings -q RefreshRate" reports as 59.89Hz and 59.95Hz. From what I can find online, Nvidia is treating these both as one big virtual screen (a hack) so that displays can be changed without restarting X, and assigning the virtual VSync rate of 60Hz, which causes the slowly moving screen tear.
I'm not clear how to fix this. I would by happy if the whole virtual screen was synced to the refresh rate of the primary monitor, because I don't care if the second tears. I would also be [maybe even more] happy to have each display set as a separate X screen and require an X restart on switch (this seems like an odd limitation, are there any plans to fix this in Wayland or the Canonical alternative?), if that would fix the problem and allow nvidia-settings to detect the correct refresh rate. What's my best bet for defeating that tear?

Does anyone know the thickness of the rubber around the bezel of the screen?

I am trying to determine how think the rubber around the bezel is because I am interested in purchasing a Shaggymac Screen/keyboard cover for my 13" Macbook Air. The thickness of the cloth reported on the sight is .6mm. More or less, my question is whether or not the Shaggymac cloth is thicker than the rubber.
Many thanks!

That's what I have been trying to find out since iOS 8 was released and no one seems to know.
Am I correct to think it will be similar to the Dropbox/Box apps?

Whenever i type something in google or any other website, a find tab with pink colour comes beneath the screen and i cannot type anything on google..whatever i enter goes in the find tab.....plz help

whenever i type something in google or any other website a find tab pink colour comes beneath the screen and i cannot ype anything on google. whatever i type goes in the find tab and i cannot type anything on website......plz help
== This happened ==
Every time Firefox opened
== 10 days ago

Do a malware check with a few malware scan programs.
You need to use all programs because each detects different malware.
Make sure that you update each program to get the latest version of the database.
http://www.malwarebytes.org/mbam.php - Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
http://www.superantispyware.com/ - SuperAntispyware
http://www.safer-networking.org/en/index.html - Spybot Search & Destroy
http://www.lavasoft.com/products/ad_aware_free.php - Ad-Aware Free
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/products/winfamily/defender/default.mspx - Windows Defender: Home Page
See also "Spyware on Windows": http://kb.mozillazine.org/Popups_not_blocked and [[Searches are redirected to another site]]

I have a tiny problem that is driving me mad. When I am playing an album in iTunes using cover flow view (with the playlist beneath the artwork picture) the picture is exactly above the album title. All is symmetrical. When I switch to full screen displa

I have a tiny problem that is driving me mad. When I am playing an album in iTunes using cover flow view (with the playlist beneath the artwork picture) the picture is exactly above the album title. All is symmetrical. When I switch to full screen display, the artwork moves a couple of inches to the left and the display is therefore asymmetrical. Why and how do I correct it? It would drive you mad to.
Thanks for any help,
Graham

I was having the same problem, but tried the "Top Button + Home Button" reset and that did work for me. My unofficial guess is that perhaps RAM caches get filled through daily use of various apps leaving no memory for cover flow. Resetting the phone on the phone itself seems to reset that RAM. I can't say it's a cure-all, but it solved my issue. Hope this helps.

Screen tearing, but only on Retina display?

Hello,
Here's the situation...
I'm noticing screen tearing, but only on my Macbook Pro's retina display, not the external display that's also connected to it.
Here's my setup:
- Macbook Pro w/ Retina Display (Late-2012)
- External Monitor is an HP w2007 (1680 x 1050) and is connected to my rMBP's HDMI port via an Apple HDMI-to-DVI adapter
- I'm running Mavericks
- Testing using www.speedtest.net
When I run the speed test on the w2007 monitor, everything is fine. However, when I run it on my retina display, the speed meter indicator needle always tears.
Is anybody else seeing this?
Can others, especially with external monitors, perform this test and post your results here?
Thanks!

leroydouglas wrote:
Take in for a free assessment:
Genius reservation http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
on-line https://getsupport.apple.com/GetproductgroupList.action
check warranty https://selfsolve.apple.com/agreementWarrantyDynamic.do
Thanks. If I can't figure it out on my own, or with the help from this forum, I will do as you suggested.
To be honest, it's not affecting me that bad right now (I'm not doing a lot of gaming), but it bothers me that my superior retina screen is exhibiting tearing, but my old HP monitor is not.

Screen tearing in secure guest mode

Just got a new rMBP, 15" (no discrete GPU), 2.3GHz. Slowly installing stuff I want on it and I enabled FileVault. Once it was done, I restarted again and to check out the guest mode.
When Safari started up, it went into a semi seizure-inducing state. Going to the Yahoo homepage caused a LOT of screen tearing. Very noticeable on the scrollbars and anything with anything animated. Yet when I restart and log in as normal and go to the same page with Safari there were no rendering problems at all.
I have reset the PRAM/NVRAM and all updates are installed from the App Store.
Has anyone else experienced this? Is this likely to be a hardware problem or a software problem (gfx driver issue in safe mode)?
Thanks
Chris

Yep that "fixed" it. Very surprised that made it past QA.
I'd rather than have Filevault on than a working guest login.
Chris

Macbook Pro 13" Screen Tearing Issue

Just recently purchased a new 13" Macbook Pro 2.4GHz, and noticed that when I am playing videos or even dragging a window across the screen, there is quite a considerable amount of screen tearing. I don't know whether this is to do with the video card, but the playback of videos is quite bad and the tearing is very noticeable. Any solutions would be greatly appreciated.

I am having the exact same problem (mid 2010 model, 2.66) i notice it happens when i quit a 3D video game like sims 3 or half life 2, even after the graphics update today. Its the worst when zoomed in (control + scrolling)
a temporary fix i ave found is putting the computer to sleep and then waking it again seems to fix it, but after a while it always comes back

How can I get the tabs back where they belong beneath the address bar , NOT on top ???

how can I get the tabs back where they belong beneath the address bar , NOT on top ???
they are on top, which puts the address bar at a variable position depending on how many tab rows exist - makes a moving target for navigating to across my dual 24 inch screens
I tried your "solution" using about:config and setting browser.tab.on.top or whatever to false, but that had NO effect
Maybe because TabMixPlus is installed?
It does allow putting the tabs all the way at the bottom, but I don't like that either.
PLEASE, give me the address bar at TOP with tabs under that!!!
Also, I don't want FlashGot to be at the right of the address bar!!!

why should we use yet another add on to get the tabs back at the bottom? Big mistake.
Moreover, why make FF look more like Chrome? If I wanted Chrome, i would have installed it long time ago.
FF 29.0 is NOT an improvement.
Nasty piece of mud.

Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia 7300

Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia GeForce 7300 GT
I've been suffering with screen tearing, strange screen artifacts, etc. followed by totally unresponsive freezing machine. This problem has been happening to varying degrees for about 9 months.
Initially, I was able to mitigate the problem with smcFanControl. Adjusting the fan speeds up helped keep the machine cool and prevent most of the problems. Recently, we had a spell of hot weather and the fans just couldn't keep up. If you're using smcFanControl, the only fan speed that will really make a difference is the CPU. The HDD and ODD fans are no where near where you need to be.
Also, I noticed the machine was LOADED with dust when I took it apart, including the heat sink fins for the graphics card. If you have time you may want to try a thorough cleaning with compressed air before replacing the card. You just need to get through step 11 below to access what needs to be cleaned.
Based on reading here and elsewhere, I decided to replace the graphics card. To give back to the community, I wanted to layout the procedure here.
Where to buy the card.
I had a tough time finding the right card. I did exhaustive web searches using every combination of Nvidia 7300 GT, etc. You really need to search by the Apple part number. The Apple part number for the 7300 is 661-4179, for the 7600 is 661-4180. I found it at We Love Macs and at dv warehouse. I paid $248 for the 7600 card. BE CAREFUL buying a "refurbished" card. At We Love Macs, "refurbished" means "pulled from a working machine." Could be a machine with as much mileage as yours and prone to the same failures as yours.
The card is an MXM style card (generally used in laptops), with a giant heat sink and heat pipe assembly. The card can be separated from the heat assembly. If I had time, I would have tried a generic, cheaper, MXM style card.
Dispelling some myths.
People here and elsewhere have said that no Intel iMac graphics card can be replaced, that they're wedded to the logic board. The one on this model can be replaced, I've done it. Also, some have said you can't put a 256MB, 7600 GT in a machine that originally had a 128MB, 7300 GT. Also, not true. That's what I did to my machine and it is working fine.
So here's the step-by-step on my take apart and replacement. This is just one user helping out others, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. This takes about 1 1/2 hours to take apart and 2 to put back together.
1) Install the iStat widget and monitor the temperatures for a few days and record the temperatures (to be able to verify that you've completed the repair correctly later)
2) Make a complete backup of any internal drives and make sure the backup will be bootable (use Carbon Copy Cloner)
3) Use static safeguards, like an anti-static wrist strap.
4) Get a pen a stack of paper envelopes to separate and label the pieces you remove.
5) You'll need a #2 Phillips and #6, 8, 10 Torx. Most of the screws at T-8. There are 8 T-8s holding in the LCD. They are about 1 1/4" down. You'll need a long, skinny T-8 to get to them.
6) Unplug the machine and place it on it's back on a large white sheet of paper.
7) Remove RAM door, #2 Phillips x 2.
8) Remove RAM.
9) Remove 4 T-8s along bottom.
10) Remove large rectangular plastic bezel surrounding the whole machine, tilt up being careful not to stress iSight cables. You'll need to stretch it around the RAM ejection tabs.
11) Detach two iSight cables.
12) Peel up black stickers at lower corners of speakers.
13) Remove LCD screws, T-8 x 8. You'll probably drop a few, they're pretty easy to retrieve.
14) Remove two retaining screws on right hand LCD cable. T-6 x2 Unplug cable.
15) Remove LCD inverter cable, left.
Start unplugging everything connected to the logic board.
16) Unplug cable coming from right speaker. Note cable routing, it is the only one that's a little tricky. Also, note that the left one plugs in on the right and the right one plugs in on the left.
17) Remove right speaker. T-10 Note: left and right speaker screws are different lengths.
18) Unplug ODD blower cable.
19) Unplug ODD temp cable and lift up tape.
20) Unplug HDD blower cable.
21) Unplug the HDD temp cable.
22) Unplug the camera & mic cable.
23) Unscrew the clamp securing the airport card (has two antenna cables going to it, labeled PCIE), T-6 x 2
24) Unplug SATA cable.
25) Unplug Power cable, thick black plastic harness, socket.
26) Unplug ambient temp cable.
27) Unscrew the bluetooth card, T-6 x2.
28) Unplug CPU blower cable.
29) Unplug power button cable, 2 conductor, tiny cable, bottom left.
30) Unscrew left speaker, T-10, unplug from logic board, but just leave dangling, no need to remove cable completely.
31) Remove logic board screws. Be careful to segregate them, they have different lengths and different thread pitches and thread types. Some are machine threads going into metal, some are coarse threads going into plastic.
31a) Heat sink frame to case T-8 x 2
31b) Logic board to case T-8 x 3
31c) Screws at heat sink from arrows T-8 x 3
31d) Logic board at bottom near RAM slot T-8 x 2
32) Unplug ODD ribbon cable, be extremely careful. Release plastic tabs on each side to remove. Be sure it is fully and evenly seated when you put it back later.
33) Remove logic board with attached graphics card.
34) Unplug graphics card heat sink sensor cable at logic board end.
35) Remove graphics card screws 2 x T-6
36) Remove single screw from small L-bracket on heat sink 1 x T-6
Replace graphics card.
Reverse steps, put everything back together. Be careful not to pinch any cables when you put the logic board back in. When you put the LCD back in, if you can't get the screws to stick to the driver, use some glue stick from your kid's art supplies.
Test everything. You've disconnected every cable in the system.
I torture tested the machine with a space heater on it, 5 different videos of different formats playing at the same time. No problems.
I took a lot of pictures inside the machine. As soon as I figure out a good place to post them, I'll try to add a link here.
Good luck

Greetings!
I know this is in response to your post from over 2 years ago, but I was searching on Apple's site for the max RAM I can upgrade our refurbed iMac too and it brought up this post.
Oddly enough, I've been experiencing the same screen issues and locking up on our iMac as well. I was concerned it was a bad memory module, but now I'm thinking it's the same issue you found.
Because I bought this some 2+ years ago refurbed from Apple, I'm not surprised that could be the actual problem.
I've pulled this thing apart once to replace the hard-drive which crashed about a year ago, so I'm not totally new at opening it up, but this process you mention sounds pretty intense...just wanted to get your second take on it based on what I've done thus far.
Thanks again for posting this...it was an eye-opener as to what might actually be causing our issues with our trusted Mac!
Joshua

RMBP - external screen turns black for a few seconds every once in a while

My external screen (Dell U2711) connected via Thunderbolt to Displayport cable turns black every once in a while. The rMBP is in clamshell mode. When it starts it randomly blackens the screen for 2 seconds with an interval of 10 seconds to 5 minutes. A restart usually fixes the issue but it keeps coming back after some time.
Has anybody here experienced something similar?
What can be the cause of that?
This really starts to annoy me, because it seems I have to do reboot everytime I connect my laptop to my screen.

Never had the sort of problem - but then I've an Apple Thunderbolt Display and it just 'works'.
Could be that you're adapter is shot. You could buy a (or some) new ones from Monoprice (much cheaper than what Apple's third-party solutions sell for) and see if that's the problem.
Sorry I can't offer a more helpful solution...
Clinton

Screen tearing at 1920*1080 resolution on samsung tv.

Today I bought a display port to vga adapter so I could use my macbook pro in collaboration with my tv. I find that just moving the cursor or anything causes vsync like related screen tearing. Is there anyway I could stop this from happening?
The specs of my macbook pro are:
13", mid 2010
2.66ghz Intel core 2 duo
6gb 1067mhz DDR3
Nvidia Geforce 320m 256mb
OSX 10.9.1

Hi-
If the graphics card firmware does not have resolution support needed for a particular monitor, it won't show as an option.
You can create new, custom resolutions using SwitchResX;
http://www.madrau.com/whatis/whatis.html
I've seen screen shots online where users have the option to choose 1080i or 1080p. This would be ideal!
The difference between 1080p vs 1080i is not something to worry about.
http://www.thebestplasmatv.com/guides/1080p-vs-1080i/

Screen Tearing Issues

As of today, my Mac Mini has experienced severe screen tearing issues, it generally happens on Chrome but has started to also happen on other applications such as Pages. My Mac Mini is virtually brand new and has been used for about 2 weeks. I am using an TV via an HDMI cable. It is the 2.3ghz model with 4gb RAM. The OS is Mavericks. I have tried restarting but that didn't help. Plus the Mac is now hot with very little apps open (Minecraft, Chrome (1tab)) and the fan is loud.

Doesn't sound good... You have 90 days free phone support and a one year warranty on your Mac Mini.
I would Contact Apple Support or the Apple Store where you made the purchased and have it checked out.
Additionally you might wat to get AppleCare, which extends the phone support and warranty to three full years.

Is the rMBP extra sensitive to scratches?

Hello everybody,
When I bought my rMBP all was fine and dandy. Within a week I bought the Crumpler 15" Slip, hoping it would protect my screen from any scratches and stuff. After I bought and started using the slip I suddenly found some scratches on my screen. At first I thought it was a dead pixel but the guys from the Premium Reseller said it was a scratch. They wouldn't replace my screen, because scratches on the screen weren't part of the garantee.
Frustrated I went home, I payed 2500 euro's for my rMBP (incl. AppleCare). That said, a week later (still using the Slip) a big *** black beam running from the top to the bottom of the screen:
So now they would replace the screen at my Reseller. I was happy, the scratched "pixel" was replaced too.
A month later the same thing happened, a scratch in my screen. I didn't use my kitchen knife and started scratching the surface of my screen... This all started to raise some questions in my head. I found this article from Apple for example:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4384
Prior to this rMBP I had a MBP 13" and it survived a nuclear disaster without leaving a scratch (a "little" bit exaggerated). For real: I had it for 3 years, no scratch on my screen.
Now I'm a graphic designer and I need my screen to be spot on clean. The scratch is located in the middle of my canvas in i.e. Adobe Illustrator. To check if my colors are right, I always have to move the canvas around. Very frustrating!!
My question(s) to you all:
Are the rMBP screen more sensitive to scratches. Is a breadcrumb enough to create such a deep scratch that shows that well (like I said, looking like dead pixel)?
Is a scratch, that withholds me from doing my job efficiently, part of the AppleCare garantee?
Thanks everyone,
Merijn

I also have a dead pixel sized scratch on my rMBP. Just found it today. Middle of my screen and anyoning. I'm sure I will get used to it but after paying $3000USD for it just 3.5 months ago has got me fustrated. I got this screen because I am photographer and wanted that extra resolution. This screen does seem more sensitive than others I have had. My previous laptops seem like they went at least a year without a nick in the screen.
As for the AppleCare portion of the question, I am not sure. Would love to know.
Best,
P

Screen Tearing?

I got a brand new Imac and I'm not really sure what this is called. I looked at the similar topic on horizontal lines in the monitor...but mine doesn't look like that. When using the scroll bar in firefox or safari, I get this invisible horizontal line that moves along the application. Be it a forum like this or a simple image.
It never does this with the scroll wheel. Only with the bars. I have yet to find any applications that get the same effect. So far I've only seen it in firefox or safari.
I did some searching on google and this is about the closest thing I can find to what I'm talking about.
http://www.overclock.net/attachments/graphics-cards-general/106180d1240223886-sc reen-tearing-overclocked-cpu-ggdsg_19.jpg
It's not as extreme as that. But it's there. Is there a solution for this? Will it get worse?
edit
I also found the problem occuring in IPHOTO.
Message was edited by: Matt Arnold

I am having a MacBook pro which is running the latest update 10.6.2
My major problem is when I’m scrolling in slow speed or moving the window in Safari, Firefox and Chrome the text lines are flashing. The distortion can be described as ripples, waves etc. This is annoying in most of the pages of apple’s web site, especially in http://www.apple.com/macosx/technology/. When I am scrolling/moving window the ripple of the bigger gray fonts is the most annoying issue. I notice the problem when I install the 10.5.5 or 10.5.6, I don't remember exactly. The only thing that I'm sure is when I bought it (Jan. 2009) the problem was not there. Moving from 10.5 to 10.6 some other issues that appeared through the updates of 10.5 are fixed. The most annoying that I still remember is the black screen (OS X crash) when the OS X wakes from sleep mode with password protection. This issue does not appears in Leopard.
This is the only reason that I am convinced we do not experience a hardware problem.
Another similar issue that appears in latest updates of 10.5 and still exists is when I move a finder window with blue folder icons in it circularly, the folders rippling, melting, tearing etc.
I am hoping that the 10.6.2 fix those problems but it seems it not.

Rubber beneath the rMBP 15" screen tear

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