Rumbling from output when changing volume.

I just recieved my iPod Classic from the mail yesterday. I bought a refurbished one to save some money but when I recieved it and uploaded all music/videos and applied the 2 yr warrenity on it that I found out it was rumbling the noice coming out of the head phones. But when it was too quite or maxed out it was fine. After a day of playing around with the settings I got it working normally but however it sometimes goes back to rumbling and will have to play with volume and reset the iPod before it goes back to normal. Is there anything I could do or is it something that I need to go to an apple store for? Also, if I do go to an Apple Store, will it be a quick fix or something that will take more than a day?

I have the EXACT SAME proublem. At first I thought my card went bad because I lost 3 channels but after hitting the defult button all the speakers started working again. For me it also seems that if I change the master volume on the soundblaster controll pannel to anything other then defult I then lose the same 3 channels. However if I use window's volume controll (single click on the speaker in the task tray), or the volume adjustment on my keyboard I have no proublems.

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Funny noise when changing volume

I've just noticed that when the volume is changed by pressing the volume keys at the top of the keyboard a small tapping noise comes from the speakers. I've checked the sound settings in the system preferences and I've turned off the play feedback feature when the volume is changed.
It's really beginning to bug me. This has only occurred after installing the latest update.
Has anyone else experienced the same problem?
Anna

So I took my 1.33Ghz iBook back to the Apple Store to have it replaced for this clicking/popping noise, volume balance problem that they are unable to fix or acknowledge as a bug. While I was waiting to be helped by the genius, I thought I would do a test with the iBooks and Powerbooks in the store.
Here are my startling findings....
ALL OF THE 12" IBOOKS AND POWERBOOKS IN THE STORE HAD THIS POPPING/CRACKLING SOUND.
Seems to be a bigger problem than even I had thought. I guess we will have to wait for a 10.4.4 update that hopefully will fix this problem.

No sound from Sub, Rear L/R, Centre, when changing volume (X-Fi xtremegamer, 5.1 T61

Hey, since this week I got a really strange problem, I first noticed it when in games, i don't hear people coming from the back anymore, and music doesn't sound as crisp anymore. At first the rear right was switched around with the sub and some other strange stuff going on, and now it affects 4 speakers: the central speaker, the 2 rear speakers, and the subwoofer. When i click on standard configuration(dunno how it is exactly in english, cus i have the?dutch version, but it changes everything into default), they work again. I started customizing everything again, and tested if they were working, but same problem: only front left/right were working. After some testing I found out that it occurs as soon as i change the volume with the main volume knob. By default it is something like 74%, and after changing it to something else, the problem occurs, even if turned back to 74.
Does someone know how to fix it's

I have the EXACT SAME proublem. At first I thought my card went bad because I lost 3 channels but after hitting the defult button all the speakers started working again. For me it also seems that if I change the master volume on the soundblaster controll pannel to anything other then defult I then lose the same 3 channels. However if I use window's volume controll (single click on the speaker in the task tray), or the volume adjustment on my keyboard I have no proublems.

Loss of sound effect when changing volume.

Hi there,
I have just purchased a Macbook Pro and everything was going well until I noticed that when I changed the volume using the F11 and F12 keys, the sound effect would no longer be produced. I have been through Sounds in System Preferences and checked all the settings are correct, even the 'play feedback when volume is changed' option is checked. All I have been doing so far is using iTunes and using the internet. I also loaded djay but I don't think this would have anything to do with it. Please help.

iCloud only keeps photo stream photos for 30 days, even though up to 1000 photos will remain on your devices until deleted. When you re-enabled photo stream you only received photo stream photos from the last 30 days as older photos are no longer in iCloud.
To change your iCloud ID, go to Settings>iCloud, tap Delete Account, then sign back in with the new ID. This deletes the account and your iCloud data from your device, but not from iCloud. Provided you are signing back into the same account, your iCloud data will reappear on your device when you sign back in.
However, to avoid losing photo stream photos, before deleting the account save them to your camera roll (if not already there). To do this, open your my photo stream album, tap Edit, tap the photos, tap Share, then tap Save to Camera Roll. Be sure to do this on your other devices first.
To get the missing photos back on your iPod, create a shared photo stream that includes them on one of your other devices and invite yourself as a subscriber (see http://help.apple.com/icloud/#mmc0cd7e99).

No beeping when changing volume

When I turn the volume up and down the beep doesn't come on. What settings should I change?

System Preferences > Sound > Sound Effects -
Note - that pic is from Lion, but the one for Snow Leopard should be similar.

Effect on symbolic link when changing volume name

I just wanted to verify this information before I proceed with changing the name of my hard drive. I have 3 partitions of my MBP's internal drive. There is the system partition "Mac HD", a boot camp partition and a data only partition called "Storage". I have quite a few symbolic links on "Mac HD" which point to "Storage", where the data is stored. If I change the name of "Mac HD" and/or "Storage", will the symbolic links update to the new name of the volume automatically? Or, will the change of volume name break the symbolic links so I have to create them all over again? Everything I have read leads me to believe they will update, but I don't want to mess anything up and find out the hard way. A little confirmation would make me feel much better before I make the change.
Thanks,
sterling

etresoft wrote:
I don't want to get off on a tangent about pros and cons of cloning, I just want to plant a seed of worry to review it at a later date. It is one thing to restore a disk image for a kiosk machine, it is something else entirely to restore an image of some machine that has had people using it. Misconfiguration, corrupt filesystems, and failed hard drives are some of the most frequent causes of failures. Having a clone of a system that has just failed for one of those reasons doesn't give me a warm fuzzy. It would be a much better idea to have a procedure (or script) to build a new server from scratch and load it from a backup (not a bitwise clone) of known, good data.
Our computer use is typical. There are only a few employees who use the computers regularly, and a few people others who use it less often. the daily use is mostly for back end management like bookkeeping and processing orders. The rest of the operations are design based, like graphics and documents. We don't have a business like a kiosk where people are all over the computers all day. With deep freeze on the system though, there is no worry about anyone doing anything to the system that would corrupt it. Also, the actual drives with the OS rarely get changed or backed up, because they remain the same for the most part. All of the files that are created like documents, designs, orders and such, are saved to storage. The storage is what I back up frequently, because that's where everything is stored. I may have a false sense of security, but I always thought I was more protected than most, because all of my files are stored on a drive without any operating system. I figured there is very little that can go wrong which could corrupt my data since the drive is data only. I always have 2 backups up both the OS drive and the data storage drive. One is like a daily backup, the other is more like once a week or so update which is kept in the safe. I always verify that the backup by opening a few files on it, but I never really know for sure that everything is safe because I can't open everything! I have no clue how to start a server based system backup like you are talking about, but it sounds like a much safer backup method. A little overkill for use considering we don't do that much on the computers? Maybe, but only because I would have to hire someone to come set it up for me. Maybe it's not so hard as it sounds, but I know I don't have the time to learn how to do something like that myself. I didn't realize the backup techniques I am using are so inferior. I feel like my data is pretty safe, but I guess I can look into other options.
I don't consider it "fun", I consider it a "requirement".
I am a bit of a prepper, okay a lot of a prepper. I am prepared for just about anything that can come my way. I do not consider testing my preps fun either. I was just saying, I anticipate that there will be some sort of loss when I restore, based on what you're telling me.
Disasters do have a remarkable ability to strike when you are least prepared. There is a logical reason for that. The more prepared you are, the less disastrous the event.
Agreed, 100%. That's why we're talking about it. I was starting to think that I was over thinking it! Clearly I'm not the only one!
Interesting. Unfortunately, the symbolic link method is pretty invasive because it requires those links to be up and functioning before the clone. A better solution would be to identify all those files, and have a launchd script that replaces the original files with either modified versions or links at system boot time.
With deep freeze, the symlinks are re-created every time I boot, even if they are broken before shutdown. So, it's pretty safe as long as they work before I freeze the system. I also have the two backups in case something goes wrong. I'm confident the links work. And the worst thing that can go wrong if they break is that I have to re-create the broken ones. either way, the data that is linked is still on my storage drive and both of my backups. The only thing I wouldn't be able to recover would be the symbolic link itself.
You need to think of this in terms of the file system. The "name" of a volume doesn't really mean anything. What matters is the mount point. The mount point, however, depends on a particular hardware configuration. You could control it better with some clever mounting scripts, but it sure seems like there is a much easier way to accomplish your ultimate goal.
I guess you're saying I could get by without deep freeze, and that it complicated things. Yes, it does. I am always trying to find workarounds because of it. However, I like the fact that my computer is the same every time I turn it on no matter what someone has done to it.
You have extensive control over your mount points.
I will have to look into this, because if I can get the firewire clone to run with the symlinks in place, I could have a fully working system with nothing more than a restart of the computer.
That, I don't know. Restoring a disk image that has embedded symbolic links to another drive is a fragile solution. You know what files you need to symlink, write a script that will set up the links at boot time - or at any time. Exactly what files are these? I strongly think there is an even easier solution lurking around. Why are you so concerned about retaining user data through restarts? Why are you even restarting?
There's actually not as many as I thought. I have symlinked data and prefs from mail, ical, address book, blackberry desktop. Then, some document folders. I could cut a lot of these down by linking my entire documents folder and building my hierarchy within that, but I've built my own which is neatly organized into the 4 departments of our business. It's really not that much. The only thing is that my mail, ical and address book won't work on the clone, because they are dependent on the simlinks. Everything else is just files that I would access directly from the storage drive anyway, so no loss there!
Wow! I made it through here! I'll review over the ideas you recommended and see if I can actually implement any of them myself. My guess is, I don't have the skills to pull them off. I'll look into it though. thanks for your time, and I will let you know what happens.

PC speaker beeps when changing volume

Everytime I adjust the volume when listening to file/CD's with the bulit-in Realtek audio - the friggin' PC case speaker beeps like it is posting ???
This does not happen when using my Aardvark card for recording.

Actually, I got a better explanation from my engineer friend on this last night. It has to do with star grounding techniques & high-frequency EMI/EMR. Some mobos actually have the mounting points intended for ground & some don't.
As explained to me:
Early PC's were intended to have the mobo isolated above the ground plane and this worked great up until about 700MHz or so. Above that frequency things start to get weird (esp. on current machines) from an EMI/EMR perpective (my friend is primarily an audio engineer that also is a great electronic tech). Having the mounting points grounded helps to control radiation of these ultra-high frequency soundwaves thus cutting down on issues caused by EMI/EMR getting into other areas of the machine - feeding back into CPU/mem/components, and also causing issues with nearby equipment. Among other things, simply controlling the EMI can give you a much higher stable potential clockspeed in ideal situations.
By the way - I did get the pc case speaker issue handled - figured it out thru trial & error - Realtek software does not like the windoze volume control.
PS - I never implied that the connectors onboard mobos are inadequate for proper operation of the circuits, that is their exact job. Was only referring to control of EMI/EMR, nor improper shorting to ground which should NEVER happen!

Feedback When Changing Volume Stopped Working

I have "Play feedback when volume is changed" checked in System Preferences > Sound > Sound Effects, but this has stopped working when I use the volume keys on my Apple keyboard. I would try trashing the appropriate preferences, but I can't find the right preferences file. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Emily

I had to shut down my iMac because of a thunderstorm, and when I turned the computer back on, the feedback was working again.

[SOLVED] pulseaudio visual feedback when changing volume

I'm using pasystray and have the volume rocker on my thinkpad bound to increase and decrease the volume using xbindkeys. Its working, but I would really like some visual feedback and when I increase and decrease the volume. Is there something out there that already does this? Something that looks kinda like the screen brightness popup that shows up in xfce4 would be nice.
Last edited by syamajala (2013-02-02 18:07:59)

i was searching for the wrong thing before. what i wanted was osd volume display. this script worked for me, https://bbs.archlinux.org/viewtopic.php … 1#p1004571

Crackle when changing volume

Hi, I have a new 30GB video iPod, all seems to be working fine except:
When I'm listening to mp3s (not every file, but most) and I scroll the volume up or down it makes a crackling noise above the music on the left speaker. It is not the clicker as I have tried it with the clicker setting off.
This only happens during playback of a song, and it sounds like a kind of staticy crackle. Does anybody else experience this? Do you think it is worth getting a replacement over?

I replaced my iPod, it is still the same... I don't
know if it only happens with the black 30gigs, or in
all models. I just decided to live with it... unless
Apple one day recognise this issue with their
players...
I have a white 30gb so it's definitely not color-specific. At least I now know that my unit (probably) isn't defective. I can live with the problem too, but it is a bit annoying once you notice it.
Hopefully this is something that can be fixed via a future firmware update, along with the other issues (slow menus, slow track advances...)

T500 loud beep when changing volume

My t500 beep loudly whenever I use my Windows XP to change the volume...even though I set the O/S sound scheme to "None"...It doesn't happen with the volume change button but I connect my laptop to an external monitor so I don't want to bother using the volume change button...
I'm trying to reinstall the sound driver to see if that's the problem?

Hi drixomanbets,
Maybe this will help:- http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows/turn-off-the-annoying-windows-xp-system-beeps/
In case above doesn't help, then enter BIOS -> Config -> Alarm ->Volume Beep -> Set it to Disabled.
Hope it helps
Maliha (I don't work for lenovo)
ThinkPads:- T400[Win 7], T60[Win 7], IBM 240[Win XP]
IdeaPad: U350
Apple:- Macbook Air [Snow Leopard]
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ITUNES v7.0 Distortion when changing volume level

Anyone else having this issue?

i updated the s/w version to 7.1.1 and tried the speakers... they still did not work....i had itunes running when i plugged them in... as soon as i closed itunes and restarted it after i had plugged them in, the speakers and buttons worked fine....

Output for changes versions in SRM

Hello,
We are currently trying to control when our SRM (server 550)system is to send output to our vendors, but the output is only to be sent if specific elements in an order is changed.
To do this we are using the table BBPD_COMP_FIELDS.
This works very well, there is just one problem that we cant seem to understand why.
If you created an order, then change the order with something that was not suppost to send output (because it is set in the table above) it sends the output. If you then change the same again it will not send out put (which is correct).
So what it does is for changes that shouldent send output when changed:
order --> output (correct)
change1 --> output (Wrong)
change2 --> no output (correct)
it should of been:
order --> output
change1 --> no output
change2 --> no output
Question is why and how do we get it to stop doing this?
Hope someone can help us.
Best Regards
Lisa M Simonsen

Hi
Use the PO version control BADi to change the version for the PO on identified field changes. In SPRO, out put conditions, trigger the change output when there is a change version of the document. This should work.
BBPD_COMP_FIELDS (with SM30). There is something mentioned about which fields to compare for PO output, you have to scroll some way down to get there.
Re: Changed PO output
Also, Please go through the following pointers, which might help you out.
Re: PO output fields
Re: Control PO output to vendor
Re: No Output Condition on Purchase Orders
Version Details
Do let me know.
Regards
- Atul

How do I output the smoothest video when changing or mixing frame rates from the original footage?

I have been experimenting with various Media Encoder settings, and wondered if there was anything else I can try to get the smoothest video output possible, especially when changing frame rate and possibly resolution. For clarification, let me start from the beginning and explain what I'm doing and what I've tried so far. I'll try to be as brief as possible, but if I do go into too much detail, I apologize.
My original footage is AVCHD 1080p - 60fps. (my camera only does 60fps...specifically 59.94fps) We're not talking interlaced video here, I'm staying away from that. This is definitely full frame, progressive video at 60 frames (not fields) per second. My output will ultimately be for the web. I have been keeping my output codec (H.264) and bit-rate (VBR 2-pass, relatively high-bitrate) consistent, and have been trying numerous output options and even sequence settings to see what would yield the best results. I am using Premiere Pro CS5.5 along with Media Encoder. Here's what I've done and the results I've observed:
1. I created a sequence with 1080p - 59.94fps settings to match my original footage. I then output both 1080p and 720p versions at 59.94fps, and at 29.97fps. The 59.94fps output files looked absolutely great, as would be expected. Extremely smooth. The 29.97fps output files were generally smooth, but not near as smooth as the 59.94fps. This is expected since it's half the frame rate as my original footage. However, my question is this: What exactly is Media Encoder doing when "down converting" from 60p to 30p? From a technical stand point, is it dropping every other frame? I'm just curious to understand exactly what it does. I tried the Frame Blending option as well, and that only yielded a bit more blur to the images which wasn't desirable for any of the output files.
2. Just to see what would happen, I created a sequence with 1080p - 29.97 settings. I then output both 1080p and 720p versions at 29.97fps. The video was much more choppy in these cases, even with Frame Blending on. Now, I know not matching my sequence settings with my original media isn't ideal, but I again just want to understand why this yields less smooth video than the 29.97fps options above. Why does cutting the sequence settings frame rate in half from the original, then outputting the same frame rate as the sequence yield video that is not as smooth?
3. Next, I wanted to try mixing frame rates to see how Premiere and Media Encoder handled the footage and output files. Premiere handled it great, no issues there. However, I had some interesting things happen when I output the files. Here's what I did: I created a sequence with 1080p - 59.94fps to match my original footage. Then I took the same exact footage that was in my sequence, copied it in my project panel and interpreted it at both 23.976 and 29.97 fps, yielding slow motion video. The slow motion video looked great in Premiere, so I went ahead and just added it to my sequences, along with the original 59.94 footage. I also created separate sequences for the 29.97 and 23.976 footage respectively, each with matching sequence settings, then added a nested sequence to another original footage sequence (with 59.94fps sequence settings) to see which yielded the best results. Basically, I'm trying to output 59.94fps that match my original footage, but also throw in some slow motion footage at different framerates. I'll explain my results in a moment as they are a bit convoluted, however, here is my question: When mixing frame rates and trying to output the smoothest video, am I going about this the right way? I would assume you would use your sequence settings that match the original footage (which is what the majority of the footage will be), then bring in a nested sequence for the slow motion (as oppose to just dropping the slow motion video directly into my main sequence), and then output to the same frame rate of the majority of the footage, in this case 59.94fps. Is there a better workflow for this?
The results to #3 above were as follows. Initially, it looked like it didn't matter if I nested the slow motion sequence into my main sequence, or simply dropped the actual slow motion video into my original 59.94fps sequence. It seemed to produce smooth results either way. Frame Blending blurred the video a bit, but didn't seem to make much difference, and quite honestly I like the footage without Frame Blending in general. However, when I closed down Premiere, and opened the output files later (opening in Quicktime), the footage looked choppy. In fact, it would go from choppy to smooth and back, almost like it had an irregular cadence (don't know if I'm using "cadence" in the right context here). I would then open up Premiere again, import the output footage into my project panel, and play the footage in Premiere, and it would play back smooth again. Is this a Quicktime issue? I was playing 1080p 59.94fps files when this happened, so maybe it's just because it's a large file. Doesn't seem to have issues with the 720p files I created. But it sure threw me off with my testing because I then started second guessing the settings I was using. My iMac is the latest 2011 model with plenty of RAM, so I wouldn't think it's the computer. Thoughts?
4. Next, I noticed on ALL my output files (again, using the H.264 codec from Media Encoder) that the color of my video seemed to flatten quite a bit. It seems that the original footage has more contrast and saturation than the output files. I figured maybe this was just how it was, but when I re-imported the output files back into Premiere, they looked IDENTICAL to the original footage. And in Media Encoder's Source/Output windows, I don't see any difference there either. Is Quicktime again the culprit here, doing some odd things to the color of my videos?
5. Regarding Frame Blending, when is the best situation to enable this option in Media Encoder? I've read it is when mixing frame rates, but I honestly didn't see too much of a change except for a bit more blur, which I didn't care for.
6. Lastly, my conclusion is that 60fps yields the smoothest video, which is an obvious conclusion. However, I know that 60fps isn't the best or easiet frame rate for web delivery. It seems 30p is more the standard. Are there any integrated web players that would play 60fps? Can you get 60fps video on YouTube/Vimeo? If yes to any of these questions, can they do 720p and 1080p at 60fps?
Those are all my questions. I hope I am clear enough without being overly wordy and hopefully I didn't put too many questions into one post. Thanks in advance for any insight, I really appreciate it.

Did you ever figure out which output worked the best? I have the same original footage; trying to determine the best output settings to make a dvd for tv.
thanks!

When changing headphones to 5.1 rear not working(volume panel), need to default in diagnostic t

Hi,
When I'm changing headphones to 5. in volume panel my rear speakers and middle one won't work...
I need to run diagnostic tool where I need to chose the default option in order to get my rear and middle
speakers to work.. I need to do this every time...
It get's annoying as I play BF242 and then try to listen to some music ot watch an movie in 5. ...
it takes an minute or so to do this but I would preffer not to have to....
I'm an xfi noob so there may be an setting that is causing this... does anyone knows how to change this?
edit: btw. the headphones(headset actually) are connected to the panel...
x-fi platinum champion fatalty, xp
the speakers are connected to teh x-fi card (analog)
edit2: It seems that when changing headphones to 5. the front center, rear left and rear right are being played in headphones...
:S?
Message Edited by foxhound009 on 06-07-2008 2:29 PMMessage Edited by foxhound009 on 06-07-2008 2:38 PM

Quote from: Chrysomya on 29-April-13, 20:14:26
Just downloaded a new driver for the realtek HD, will this resolve my problem? Current driver version is 6.0.1.6657.
Your issue is drivers related.
For Windows 8 use 6.0.1.6839
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/Z77A-G43.html#/?div=Driver&os=Win8%2064

Rumbling from output when changing volume.

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