RV042 WAN Slow (Yep, another post about this)

Hi,
I've searched and read other posts on this here and else where (via google) but cannot seem to resolve the situation.
To help save time I've compiled a list of various tests (including bypassing the RV042) and configuration options.
Tests (via DSL Reports) :
without RV042 (direct connection to T1) 1410 up / 1410 down
WITH RV042 1094 up / 763kb down
Hardware:
new Cisco RV042
Firmware Version: 1.3.12.19-tm
Internet Providers:
WAN 1: Covad T1 via Samsung iBG1000 T1 Router (NAT Disabled, RV042 has been assigned public IP Address)
WAN 2 (Failover): Atlantic BroadBand (via Surf Board Cable Modem)
RV042 Configuration:
MTU has been set to Auto, 1500, and 1492 (currently set to 1500) - speeds remain slow
SPI Enabled & Disabled - no change
Setting for Internet Port Speeds (also tried 1512 up for WAN 2 in case of GUI related error)
Interface
Upstream
(Kbit/Sec)
Downstream
(Kbit/Sec)
WAN1
WAN2
I think that about covers it, please let me know if there is any other info you need me to provide and thank you in advance for any help you can give.
- Jordan

Oh I forgot to mention that on the Easy Access it says my wifi is on but at the top of the phone it still says 4G. So is it on or not?

Similar Messages

Wifi greyed out...yet another post about this.

One of a million posts about this same issue. I have iphone 4S with iOS 7. My phone has been going along just fine. On Sunday, I was on it, using wifi,
off and on all day long. Sunday night, my connection to it on my phone was acting a little weird (slow/not connect/or drop in signal). I tried turning my router/modem off and then rebooted thinking it was that. Still acting strange, so I turned my phone off, let it sit for a minute, then turned it back on as that has
worked before. Well, when I did that, now my wifi button is "greyed" out and can't be turned on. I've tried the reset network connection about 5 times----with airplane mode on, with airplane mode off, with cellular data on, with it off, etc etc etc. I won't do the hairdryer/refrigerator trick because I don't want to make it worse. I've had the phone about 14 months so it's clearly out of warranty and I'm not paying $200 to have it repaired. So now, it's no better than a flip phone as I can't use any apps without it going against my data usage. What a crock. I can't believe Apple, whom I've trusted and with the advice of friends, would put out
something that does this. Apparently this is not a new problem as I've seen others' posts about this happening with iOS 6. So any other solutions?

Oh I forgot to mention that on the Easy Access it says my wifi is on but at the top of the phone it still says 4G. So is it on or not?

Another post about exporting at 1080 in "full HD"

I was thoroughly confused by explanations in this forum regarding whether imovie 08 can import 1080p and export 1080p without going through an intermediate 960*540 step. I decided to try it for myself. I like making lists, so please bear with me...
Camera: Canon HF100
Computer: Macbook, osx 10.5.4, imovie 7.1.2
Import settings: "Full 1080"
Export settings: AIC, "current" framerate, compressor preset "other"
I tried the following resolutions: "1920 by 1080 HD" and "current"
I compared these three clips:
1) The imported clip from the imovie events folder
2) The exported "1920 by 1080 HD" AIC clip
3) The exported "current" resolution (960*540) AIC clip.
Results:
1 and 2 appeared nearly identical. I found a frame where someone's hair was pretty still (no motion blur). Found the same frame in both clips and command-` between them back and forth to compare. The only difference my eye could see was a small color difference, but I could not see any difference in resolution or detail.
3 was clearly worse than 1 and 2. To view 3, I set quicktime to view at double size. This way I can compare the three clips at the same size on-screen. My rationale for doing option 3 was that if imovie 08 indeed forced everything through an internal 960*540 step, 2 and 3 would be similar. But this was not the case.
Interestingly, exporting 3 was the fastest, and exporting 2 was pretty slow. This tells me two things:
1) Imovie 08 must keep some kind of pre-rendered or pre-calculated copy of the project or of the clips. If this copy of the project or clip were a 960*540 resolution, this could explain why it is faster to export at 960*540. However, this is still confusing...where does it store this pre-rendered copy of the clip? I can not find any file in the imovie events subdirectories that when opened in quicktime, are of this resolution.
2) When exporting at 1080p, Imovie must have to repeat some calculations on the original clips that it doesn't have to do at 960*540, as Jon Walker said in one of the earlier archived posts on this topic.
If there is interest, I will take the imported clip #1 and run it through imovie HD 6, and then export it to compare quality. But my own curiosity is satisfied for now.
I can also post images, but this test can be reproduced easily using any of your own clips.
Message was edited by: grittathh

OK you didn't mention that. If you left it charging at 5:30am it should have been full at 8:00am unless for some reason the charging didn't start.
I wouldn't worry too much for the moment, just keep an eye on it and make sure charging starts.

Yet another post about problems with a Zen Mi

So the deal is everytime i try to put music onto my micro it says it's busy or not connected, but i know it is connected and i know my USB ports are fine, i can however make it work temporarily if i reformat it from recovery mode, but that of course deletes all my songs, im pretty sure i have the firmware i'm supposed to .....02.05..... but im not for sure, and also i did see on one of these threads that someone had bought a new usb cord and that fixed their problems, but i'd rather not waste the money if it wont fix it, any input would be very much appreciated

Well believe it or not, i did do my research and i looked through the FAQ and many many other posts about micro problems, and i know that the computer is not the problem, and for anyone who has made a similar post in the past and fixed the problem please let me know because on pretty much every thread i looked at the problem was not resolved, or at least not posted as resolved, but once again my main question is could it be the USB cord?

Yet another post about speed issues !

So had my infinity for more than 10wks now. Have been told time n time again by customer service, sales and technical help that I should get between 67 and 80 meg but after countless phone calls and apparent 'tweaks' at the exchange I'm still only getting 46 at best. Openreach engineer I spoke to in the street said it leaves the box in the street ( 2 short streets away ) at 80 so surely the problem is been m between the box and my house! Why don't they send someone to check this. One of the tech help dept even told me my line can only support 40meg and that I have been miss led over the speed! ! Though others have said I can get the higher speed. Another call back promised for today did not receive any call!
Think I'll be joining virgin when this year's contact is up, 10 months to go and counting, unless I can get out sooner for miss selling.

mushka wrote:
similar prob as me,, yet john46 keeps copying/pasting same stuff week in week out im sure he works for bt as every one has issues with speed etc and he posts same thing over and over
If it's a similar problem would you not expect a similar answer! The reason you are asked to perform speed tests etc is to try and establish where the problem may be.
As most people can not be bothered or do not search the forum before posting and perhaps finding the answer it is necessary for those people who give up their own time to try and help, to post the same thing time and time again.
I just hope that if you do have a problem it is not the same as somebody else may have had since you don't seem to want a cut and paste answer.

HT1212 i have an ipad that has a password on it and i dont remember my password i tried to restore it using itunes but its telling me that i need the password is there another way to go about this?

im trying to unlock a friends ipad for her because her step daughter doesnt want to give the password to her how do i go about in restoring it without using the password in order for me to do the process

How can I unlock my iPad if I forgot the passcode?
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-troubleshooting-repair-faq/ipad- how-to-unlock-open-forgot-code-passcode-password-login.html
iOS: Device disabled after entering wrong passcode
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1212
How can I unlock my iPad if I forgot the passcode?
http://tinyurl.com/7ndy8tb
How to Reset a Forgotten Password for an iOS Device
http://www.wikihow.com/Reset-a-Forgotten-Password-for-an-iOS-Device
Using iPhone/iPad Recovery Mode
http://ipod.about.com/od/iphonetroubleshooting/a/Iphone-Recovery-Mode.htm
You may have to do this several times.
Saw this solution on another post about an iPad in a school environment. Might work on your iPad so you won't lose everything.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
‘iPad is disabled’ fix without resetting using iTunes
Today I met my match with an iPad that had a passcode entered too many times, resulting in it displaying the message ‘iPad is disabled – Connect to iTunes’. This was a student iPad and since they use Notability for most of their work there was a chance that her files were not all backed up to the cloud. I really wanted to just re-activate the iPad instead of totally resetting it back to our default image.
I reached out to my PLN on Twitter and had some help from a few people through retweets and a couple of clarification tweets. I love that so many are willing to help out so quickly. Through this I also learned that I look like Lt. Riker from Star Trek (thanks @FillineMachine).
Through some trial and error (and a little sheer luck), I was able to reactivate the iPad without loosing any data. Note, this will only work on the computer it last synced with. Here’s how:
1. Configurator is useless in reactivating a locked iPad. You will only be able to completely reformat the iPad using Configurator. If that’s ok with you, go for it – otherwise don’t waste your time trying to figure it out.
2. Open iTunes with the iPad disconnected.
3. Connect the iPad to the computer and wait for it to show up in the devices section in iTunes.
4. Click on the iPad name when it appears and you will be given the option to restore a backup or setup as a new iPad (since it is locked).
5. Click ‘Setup as new iPad’ and then click restore.
6. The iPad will start backing up before it does the full restore and sync. CANCEL THE BACKUP IMMEDIATELY. You do this by clicking the small x in the status window in iTunes.
7. When the backup cancels, it immediately starts syncing – cancel this as well using the same small x in the iTunes status window.
8. The first stage in the restore process unlocks the iPad, you are basically just canceling out the restore process as soon as it reactivates the iPad.
If done correctly, you will experience no data loss and the result will be a reactivated iPad. I have now tried this with about 5 iPads that were locked identically by students and each time it worked like a charm.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Try it and good luck. You have nothing more to lose if it doesn't work for you.
 Cheers, Tom

Emac processing SLOW...wheel spins even when trying to open "about this mac"

this is a new to me mac. I have only had it about 5 days.
running 10.5.8. 1.42g 512 160g w/superdrive
It runs slow most of the time. when I am connected to the internet it seems ok, but when running or trying to open things like itunes, system preferences, system profiler and other applications it keeps that annoying spinning wheel going for minutes. I have even had to just shut it off and start it back up again by pressing the button. also, when I put in a cd or dvd it takes forever to read it. and the drawer doesn't want to open readily.
my other mac running 10.4.11 on 800mhz 512 80g doesn't have this trouble at all. I was thinking I was upgrading.
I tried to do repair permissions and that was taking forever, so I stopped it.
I know I will get some smirks by this, but I do not have the start up disks. I purchased this used without the disks.
I did look up some other posts about this, but wondered if there were some more suggestions without downloading anything.
any help would be appreciated.
thanks! Kelli

Hi Kelli,
10.5 needs twice as much Memory as 110.4 does, as wel it's far more demanding of the Video card & Hard Drive.
These are "Minimums" which never suffice for much...
Tiger Requirements...
To use Mac OS X 10.4 Tiger, your Macintosh needs:
    * A PowerPC G3, G4, or G5 processor
    * Built-in FireWire
    * At least 256 MB of RAM (I recommend 1GB minimum)
    * DVD drive (DVD-ROM), Combo (CD-RW/DVD-ROM) or SuperDrive (DVD-R) for installation
    * At least 3 GB of free disk space; 4 GB if you install the XCode 2 Developer Tools (I recommend 20GB minimum)
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1514
Leopard requirements/10.5.x...
    * Mac computer with an Intel, PowerPC G5, or PowerPC G4 (867MHz or faster) processor
minimum system requirements
    * 512MB of memory (I say 1.5GB for PPC at least, 2-3GB minimum for IntelMacs)
    * DVD drive for installation
    * 9GB of available disk space (I say 30GB at least)
So we know more about it...
At the Apple Icon at top left>About this Mac, then click on More Info, then click on Hardware> and report this upto but not including the Serial#...
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: eMac
Model Identifier: PowerMac6,4
Processor Name: PowerPC G4 (1.2)
Processor Speed: 1.42 GHz
Number Of CPUs: 1
L2 Cache (per CPU): 512 KB
Memory: 2 GB
Bus Speed: 167 MHz
Boot ROM Version: 4.9.2f1

"You do not have permission to post in this forum"

I have another account that cannot do anything much at all, and I would like to get it fixed without a five day wait for a Genius Bar appointment, then a 1 hour bus trip each way with an "I can't help with that" in the middle.
The account has been broken for over a year. This is what happens:
I can submit a question to the community.
I can open any postings that show as matches.
If there are no matches and I get thrown to the list of communities, then I can't view or post to any of them. I see the product names and icons (iPad, for example, but the list of related communities on the right is missing for all products. Which seems unfair because I own most of them.
You do not have permission to post to this forum
It appears you are not allowed to view what you requested. You might contact your administrator yadda yadda.
I have posted about this before:
https://discussions.apple.com/message/17393255#17393255
with no real answer (a threat of possible help, if you like, but with no resultant benefit.)
My question is - how does one get help with the help forums? I have phoned Apple's help desk and they said they could not do anything.
I would really like to get my primary account working - it connects to the right email address, it all set up and comfortable - and it does not use my name and location as an alias (who's idea was that? Fire that person!)
If you know of any court of appeal, help desk support forum support line, 21-step program or anything else that might help, please tell me. This has gone on long enough.
I tried to do something about this from the other account but to get support for the support communities you have to be able to post to them.
"That's some catch, that Catch-22"
"It's the best there is."
Thanks in advance for your help.
PG.

Seventy-one - To my knowledge, I have been a model citizen. And not impertinent of you at all - a very reasonable question. All words have been 1-3 or 5+ letters long, I certainly have not received any communication (that I have been able to find) that indicates a transgression. And there is another question - which castle, and are you saving for the deposit?
Bleach - other user name is "Ploughguy". But I was more after a means of contacting those with influence myself. Most fora like this have a contactable moderator or administrator. I am rather amazed that one needs the intercession of the saints. Such as St Roger...
Roger - This situation. The "can't look-can't post" situation. It has been (not) happening for some time.
I previously raised the issue here .
BTW, I created yet another ID because I was not careful enough when I set up the second ID and it defaulted to "NameFromSuburb". This is OK for johnfromnewyork but a huge privacy risk if you are ranulffromlittlestorpingintheswuff - an unusual name in a small place. I do not know how that default got through the peer review. Basically it says "ranulf has the good taste to own an Apple something which is portable and fenceable, and he lives not far from here". I have suggested to the privacy people that it is a very bad idea. And yes, I realise my alias is already out there. I have asked the privacy people to blow it away.

Adobe Photoshop CS4 won't open in Yosemite. Anything I can do about this?

After installing Yosemite I was told that in order "To open Adobe Photoshop CS4 you need to install the legacy Java SE 6 runtime.
Unfortunately I was also told that I needed to upgrade to Java 8 update 25...which I did thinking it would also resolve the Photoshop issue.
Silly me!
It probably made things worse as far as the possibility of opening Photoshop CS4.
Now what do I do?
I don't want to go back to Java 6. Are there any other options?
Thanks.

Thanks Rikk. Now the problem is installing legacy.
Every time I select the "install" option I get a blank screen.
I've been reading other posts about this and it may have something to do with Safari.
I'll try another browser and see what happens

HT203687 has anything been done about this yet

Icloud doesn't work with outlook 2007. Get message to click to repair but still doesn't work

I do not think it is a flash issue especially since youtube works at your home. It seems to have something to do with the wireless router. Youtube works fine connected via Verizon 3G in our office. It also works at our employees' homes using wireless. When we connect wireless at our office via an iPad, the youtube app says "the operation could not be completed." Using Safari, the video tries to load, but never plays. Youtube works fine on our Android devices connected wirelessly at the office so it has something to do with the iPad itself.
We also cannot download purchased movies/tv shows from the iTunes store when we are connected wirelessly at work because it says the file cannot be played on the iPads, but it files download fine on home wireless networks.
The problem appears to be with our wi-fi settings in our office or with the iPad settings. I found a comment on another post about changing the wireless router mode setting from up to 130 Mbps to up to 54 Mbps.
I will post again if I find a solution, but if others have solved this issue, please post.

Hey What About This Idea

I tried to find an earlier post about this, and I didn't see anything. I apologize if it has already been discussed.
How about a "Tab in Tab" browsing feature being added. In other words, having the ability to view two (or more) tabs at once. It comes up for me all the time. I am browsing on one tab, and I am waiting for something to happen in another. It would be great to me if I could see a small version of the one tab while I was browsing for other things in the other tab.
Thoughts?

Ahh! But I don't want a thumbnail. I want a live page.
i.e. I play chess online. I can do a search for another player that can sometimes take some time. While I am waiting it would be nice to be able to browse in another tab, but currently if I am viewing another tab, I have no idea what is happening in the first tab.
Or suppose I am waiting for a file to finish downloading, or a movie to start playing, etc.

I forgot my passcode on my iPad and it was synced to a different computer that I no longer have. What can I do about this?

I have forgotten my passcode on my iPad. It was synced to a different computer that I no longer have. What can I do about this and if it at all possible without losing everything that was on it. Thanks for the help.

Try this - Reset the iPad by holding down on the Sleep and Home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider - let go of the buttons. (This is equivalent to rebooting your computer.) No data/files will be erased.
If the iPad was running iOS 7, iCloud: Find My iPhone Activation Lock in iOS 7
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5818
How can I unlock my iPad if I forgot the passcode?
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-troubleshooting-repair-faq/ipad- how-to-unlock-open-forgot-code-passcode-password-login.html
iOS: Device disabled after entering wrong passcode
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1212
How can I unlock my iPad if I forgot the passcode?
http://tinyurl.com/7ndy8tb
How to Reset a Forgotten Password for an iOS Device
http://www.wikihow.com/Reset-a-Forgotten-Password-for-an-iOS-Device
Using iPhone/iPad Recovery Mode
http://ipod.about.com/od/iphonetroubleshooting/a/Iphone-Recovery-Mode.htm
You may have to do this several times.
Saw this solution on another post about an iPad in a school environment. Might work on your iPad so you won't lose everything.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
‘iPad is disabled’ fix without resetting using iTunes
Today I met my match with an iPad that had a passcode entered too many times, resulting in it displaying the message ‘iPad is disabled – Connect to iTunes’. This was a student iPad and since they use Notability for most of their work there was a chance that her files were not all backed up to the cloud. I really wanted to just re-activate the iPad instead of totally resetting it back to our default image.
I reached out to my PLN on Twitter and had some help from a few people through retweets and a couple of clarification tweets. I love that so many are willing to help out so quickly. Through this I also learned that I look like Lt. Riker from Star Trek (thanks @FillineMachine).
Through some trial and error (and a little sheer luck), I was able to reactivate the iPad without loosing any data. Note, this will only work on the computer it last synced with. Here’s how:
1. Configurator is useless in reactivating a locked iPad. You will only be able to completely reformat the iPad using Configurator. If that’s ok with you, go for it – otherwise don’t waste your time trying to figure it out.
2. Open iTunes with the iPad disconnected.
3. Connect the iPad to the computer and wait for it to show up in the devices section in iTunes.
4. Click on the iPad name when it appears and you will be given the option to restore a backup or setup as a new iPad (since it is locked).
5. Click ‘Setup as new iPad’ and then click restore.
6. The iPad will start backing up before it does the full restore and sync. CANCEL THE BACKUP IMMEDIATELY. You do this by clicking the small x in the status window in iTunes.
7. When the backup cancels, it immediately starts syncing – cancel this as well using the same small x in the iTunes status window.
8. The first stage in the restore process unlocks the iPad, you are basically just cancelling out the restore process as soon as it reactivates the iPad.
If done correctly, you will experience no data loss and the result will be a reactivated iPad. I have now tried this with about 5 iPads that were locked identically by students and each time it worked like a charm.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Try it and good luck. You have nothing more to lose if it doesn't work for you.
````````````````
Sync Your iOS Device with a New Computer Without Losing Data
http://www.howtogeek.com/104298/sync-your-ios-device-with-a-new-computer-without -losing-data/
Syncing to a "New" Computer or replacing a "crashed" Hard Drive
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3141
 Cheers, Tom

Apple took money out of my account. I had to change debit cards, and they won't get another one so is there anything I can do about this problem. I rather cancel the phone before I have to worry with my bank accoung.

Apple took money out of my account. I canceled my charge card and will not give them another one. Is there anything else I can do? I will cancel my account before I worry with my bank acount all the time. Now I can't even sign in for free apps

OK, so I have now found that this is apparently normal for iTunes, to only accept mpeg 4 movie files, all the searching I did before I must have worded it wrong because I couldn't find anything about this, incredibly. Had been looking for why iTunes won't take all the files it previously did, like if it had been changed, and it hasn't, it's allegedly always taken only mpeg 4 files. Also I had been searching for why iTunes crashes every time I try and add/import anything but mpeg 4 files, and even sometimes with mpeg 4 files. That isn't normal, it's supposed to just do nothing apparently as I've just found out. So for these reasons I didn't find the answer despite my searching all over the web.
So I guess that answers my own question now, but I'm still perplexed as to why I absolutely, definitely, without any doubt, had several hundred movies of a few different video file types loaded, accessible and playable in my iTunes library that everything here claims iTunes never accepted. It apparently shouldn't have been possible for me to have done this, but for probably 10 years it's been this way.
Perhaps since I don't remember adding these files to iTunes anymore recently than maybe 6 or 7 years ago, the iTunes back then did accept all kinds of file types? Or could I have somehow had some video codecs or software that expanded the capability of my movie players like Quicktime Player that unwittingly also allowed iTunes to take those files as well? All I know is somehow it worked! So now my question is how did I have it working before, so that maybe I can make it work again.

When using tethered capture I often get this notification "The metadata for this photo has been changed by both Lightroom and another application". This slows or stalls the loading of incoming photos. How do I find out which other application is changing

When using tethered capture I often get this notification "The metadata for this photo has been changed by both Lightroom and another application". This slows or stalls the loading of incoming photos. How do I find out which other application is changing the metadata and stop it?

Thanks Sean,
I've had a look at the TC settings dialog and tried to keep it as simple as possible. I also had a copy of LR 4 on the hard drive so have trashed that also incase of any conflicts. LR seems to be running ok now but as said it's an intermittent problem.
I also have a copy of Capture One on the hard drive so am going to uninstall that also in case it is trying to launch.

At uni i need to run proxy on 'auto detect mode' but then at home/work this mode makes my internet browsing very slow. Can i do something about this without having to change settings everytime i change locations? running V3.6.8 on OSX

At uni I need to run proxy on 'auto detect mode' but then at home/work this mode makes my internet browsing very slow. Can I do something about this without having to change settings every time I change locations? running V3.6.8 on OSX

You can look at these extensions:
*FoxyProxy: https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/2464
*QuickProxy: https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/1557
*SwitchProxy: https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/125

RV042 WAN Slow (Yep, another post about this)

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for