SATA II or III on late 2010 MBP - Also SATA III and SSD performance

Hello:
I would like to confirm that only the new 2011 MBP's have 6gb SATA interfaces. My MBP reports Series 5 and 3gb on both optical and HD bay. I have an SSD in the optical bay and a WD Scorpio Black in the HD slot. Both have a negotiated link speed of 3gb. I put the SSD in the optical bracket and the spinning drive in the real drive slot to take advantages of the physical protection in the HD bay.
If the new MBP's have one SATA III channel, I would assume it's important to put the SSD in that slot.
My SSD has a SATA II (3gb) interface. Some new ones have 6gb. Do SSD drives even approach that throughput or 3gb throughput? Which leads to the question, would a SATA III SSD perform better in a SATA III MBP?
I know the benchmarks may not even be noticeable in real life use for most of us

I have just out a SSD on my 2010 MBP, from all the info i could find both the HDD and optibay in the 2010 late SATA II, this is the reason i  put my SSD in the optibay as the speed would be the same.
I did think about getting a SATA III SSD for the future when i upgrade but at the time they were very expensive and i had read reports about problems connecting to a SATA II.
The new MBP do only have SATA III in the HDD spot so this would be the best place for any SATA III SSD.
Personally on a 2010 MBP im happy, i still get great speeds Vs a HDD but with keeping the HDD in its original spot i get to keep spin down and the motion sensor.

Similar Messages

  • Late 2010 MBP Graphics Related Crashes

    I have a late 2010 MBP that is crashing (and has been for some time).  When it first started happening I was on 10.6.8 and it only happened when I was using Google Chrome.  I stopped using Chrome and the crashes stopped. 
    I have upgraded (finally) to Yosemite and am getting crashes every 10-20 mins.
    All the reports name something to do with the Graphics.
    Per several suggestions found via google searches, I switched off the automaic graphics switching and the problem only seemed to get worse.  So is my graphics card bad vs the logic board component that does the switching?

    As  you have upgraded OS X the system has put more demand on using the discrete GPU which is the cause of the problem.
    The problem is likely due to the discrete GPU failing. Download gfxCardStatus 2.3 and use it to disable the GPU. This is a temporary workaround until you get your motherboard replaced.
    I would spend your money on a new model, frankly.

  • 2010 MBP 13.3 Lags and Fan on High Logic Board?

    Hello Everyone,
    I recently was given a 2010 Macbook Pro 2.4 13.3.  When I got it the computer lagged really bad, and the fan is stuck on high.  With that and the backlight for the keyboard not lit, I suspected the logic board but when I went to disk utility I could not see the hard drive and it would not show any partitions.  I replaced the hard drive and booted the computer in internet recovery and the same thing happens, when it is on during internet recovery, when you are selecting the wireless router the mouse works great and it is super fast, but as soon as it begins to load and start the internet recovery it starts lagging really bad. 
    One weird thing I noticed that its doing was during one of the installation process the fans slowed down to normal for about 30 seconds. During this time the mouse did not lag and the thing was moving quite quickly.  But every time I attempt to reinstall OSX it says it was not able to install the program because of a missing file, and quits. 
    So no I can't reinstall anything. the keyboard light is out and the fans on high.  I tried SMC reset and NVRAM and neither made a difference.  So I took the logic board out, cleaned it super good, shows no signs of liquid damage or corrosion.  Reinstalled and still the same issues.
    I guess the long story question here is do you think its a logic board going bad?  I am going to try and reboot with an individual stick of ram to see if that makes a difference but I feel the combination of the lights out and the fan on high tends to make me think that the board is not happy.
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    Thanks
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    2010 shipped with 2 DVD.  The AHT is one one of those DVD.  Boot off the DVD by holding the c key.
    from the link above-
    Using Apple Hardware Test on computers with OS X 10.5.5 to 10.6.7
    AHT is located on the Applications Install Disc 2 and should be included with your computer or the MacBook Air Software Reinstall Drive on a MacBook Air (Late 2010). To start AHT on these computers make sure the Applications Install Disc 2 is inserted into the built-in optical drive, external Apple Superdrive, or for the MacBook Air (Late 2010) be sure the MacBook Air Software Reinstall Drive is inserted into a USB port. Please then follow steps 1-6 outlined in the "Using Apple Hardware Test on computers with OS X 10.7 or later" section of this article.

  • My late 2010 MacBook Air suddenly crashes and will not stay on.

    I returned from a trip during which I used my MacBook Air (Late 2010) constantly.  Upon leaving the hotel I closed the computer and put it into my carrier and did not open it until arriving at home later that day.  There was moisture on the keyboard and screen at the corresponding position in an area about the size of a 50¢ piece,  I cleaned that up and turned the machine on and it booted up and then created. Several times it would turn off and on a few times without any input from me. At times it will boot up like all is well but with any keystroke it crashes to a black screen.  If I had to guess, I'd say the HD is toast.  It was replaced under warranty once already. The moisture is a complete mystery.   Any ideas?

    What method were you using for travel? I think sometimes condensation can happen in flight. Sounds like there was more moisture on the motherboard as well. Leave it for a few days in the sunlight if possible and see what happens after that.

  • Late 2010 MBP WIll No Longer Display 1080p for External Monitor

    I currently use my 15" 2010 MacBook Pro with an external monitor via an HDMI cable using the Moshi HDMI miniport adapter. Recently when I connect the monitor (I've also tested on a different HDTV and have had the same issue) it recognizes a signal but all it displays is black. Only when I change the signal to 1080i do I get a picture (a poor quality picture). Is there any fix for this? At this point I'm thinking that it's either the adapter or the MBP's hardware that is messed up. I have been using this HDMI adapter without issue since the summer.
    Any help would be appreciated.

    To light up automatically, your display must appear in:
    About this Mac > ( More Info ) > Graphics & Displays ...
    ... by Make & Model.

  • My late 2010 MBP is having a noise on the upper left hand side while starting up. is that from the internal fans or the HDD? is it cause for worry? am i going to lose the comp or the data?

    there is a noise from the upper left side of the machine at the time of starting up? is that from the HDD or the motherboard fan or the processor fan? recently my 3.5 year old HP laptop crashed and it was only later that i came to know that the heating issues had led to the motherboard being affected. i want to avoid such problems with my MBP.
    i would be grateful if some one could reassure me as to the probabilities of the problem which i am facing from the machine. the noise mentioned above is mostly at start up but at times also at the time of running of the machine though more intermittently so.

    Are you still under warranty? If so, call Apple and report the problem and get a case number. If you do have a hardware problem, a case number will document that it originally occurred under warranty, and Apple will honor your warranty until the problem is fixed.
    You can also run the extended version of the Apple Hardware Test. It will be on one of the grey system discs that originally came with your computer. On your model, it may also be possible to boot to it by holding down "D" as you boot up. If the AHT detects a hardware problem with your fan or hard drive, you will get an error code.
    Alternatively, if you have access to an Apple Store, you can make an appointment at the genius bar and have a hardware test run.
    There is also a utility you can run which will give a good check on the physical health of your hard drive:
    http://www.volitans-software.com/smart_utility.php
    SMART Utility seems to be a bit more critical than Disk Utility, and may be able to detect impending drive failure sooner. You can download the demo and run it several times for free.
    Also, here's a link where you can listen to failing hard drive sounds:
    http://datacent.com/hard_drive_sounds.php
    If you do have a hardware problem, a hardware test should detect it. If it's a fan, you want to replace it ASAP. If it's one of two, wouldn't hurt to replace both of them.
    If the hardware tests don't show anything, you may have some other problem like maybe a bit of trash or debris caught up in your fan which is making noise. It wouldn't hurt to keep tabs on your fans with something like iStatPro.
    Good luck!

  • Keyboard issue - my late 2010 MBP was working fine until SUDDENLY none of my letters would work - just numbers and a few other keys, and my trackpad would not left click, every click and tap was registered as a right click.

    If I reboot, my mouse functions normally UNTIL I hit any of the keyboard keys, then it wont stop right clicking everytime I click.
    Some of my keys are acting wierdly - I think 'I' does the TAB function, and J for example acts as the Enter/Return key.
    I have opened the keyboard utility thing, and it recognises that I am pressing the keys, but nothing is being typed on my screen.
    I have attempted to boot into safe mode, reset PRAM, run AHT but my Macbook simply doesnt want to know, just boots into OS X normally - this is with the built in keyboard and a USB External One.
    Its worth noting also that with the USB keyboard, I can type fine - also, if I reboot, my clicks are fine until I hit a key on the inbuilt keyboard, then it starts its right clicking again, however, if I then press a key on the USB keyboard the trackpad is 'reset' and allows me to click normally again.
    I have read various other threads but none really the same as mine which *****.

    Shut down the computer.
    Plug in the MagSafe power adapter to a power source, connecting it to the Mac if its not already connected.
    On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift-Control-Option keys and the power button at the same time.
    Release all the keys and the power button at the same time.
    Press the power button to turn on the computer. 
    Note: The LED on the MagSafe power adapter may change states or temporarily turn off when you reset the SMC.
    ALSO if the computer turns on, the reset was done incorrectly

  • SATA or/and SSD ?

    Hi !
    I have a question about the configuration of my future MacBook Pro : in the configuration page, we can chose a SSD hard disk. But when you take yhis option, is our MacBook equiped with the default disk (SATA, 500Go, 5400tr/m) AND the SSD of your choice, or with ONLY the SSD ? Please help...
    Thanks by advance,
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    PS : Sorry about possible errors, I'm french.

    Apple only supports one hard drive in a MacBook Pro, be that an SSD or regular hard drive.

  • T510/520 Drive Bay Adapter III and SSD compatibility

    Hi,
    I would like to use a Drive Bay Adapter III with some SSD as second drive on my T510 and T520 (I would switch it between those two laptops, use it to transfer data and so on). Are there any compatibility issues out there? Should I avoid certain SSD controllers or is it perfectly the same if I go for Sandforce or Marvell or any other?
    Thank you.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Hello flashheart:
    The Drive Bay Adapter III or Ultrabay adaptor (#0A65623) would replace the optical drive, which you probably are already aware of. There should not be any compatibility issues with either of those controllers but I have read many instances in the forum that the Sandforce controller is probably the fastest.
    Some more information on the adapter:
    ThinkPad 12.7mm Serial ATA Hard Drive Bay Adapter III
    Was this or another post on the forum helpful? Click the star on the left side of the screen to give kudos! Did someone solve a problem you encountered? Mark it as "solution provided" to help others with the same problem.

  • BootCamp on Late 2011 MBP Question.

    I don't know where to start but here goes. I've had boot camp w/ Win7 32bit on my MBP for sometime now with the original HD. I upgraded to a SSD, and removed the optical drive and put the original HDD there.  recently decided to upgrade the original HDD to 1TB and CarbonCopy Cloner does not support cloning Boot Camp partitions. So heres what I did to get BC back on my MBP. I cloned my SSD to the new HDD. Removed the SSD and reinstalled the optical drive so I can use BC to partition and install Win7 on the new 1TB HD. The reason why I did that was because my MBP does not support booting from external USB CD-ROM. Now after I got Win7 up and running I removed the optical drive, moved the 1TB HDD back over and reinstalled my SSD as the main boot disk.
    Now here comes my real question. Can I wipe the OS X Partition on the 1TB disk or will it cause problems with BootCamp ?
    Thanks in advance
    System info:
    Late 2011 MBP
    16GB Ram
    Crucial 512GB SSD
    WD 1TB in optical drive bay
    2.4 GHz Intel Core i5
    OSX Yosemite 10.10.2

    gpt show: /dev/disk1: mediasize=1000204886016; sectorsize=512; blocks=1953525168
    gpt show: /dev/disk1: Suspicious MBR at sector 0
    gpt show: /dev/disk1: Pri GPT at sector 1
    gpt show: /dev/disk1: Sec GPT at sector 1953525167
           start        size  index  contents
               0           1         MBR
               1           1         Pri GPT header
               2          32         Pri GPT table
              34           6        
              40      409600      1  GPT part - C12A7328-F81F-11D2-BA4B-00A0C93EC93B
          409640  1759493968      2  GPT part - 48465300-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC
      1759903608      262280        
      1760165888   193357824      3  GPT part - EBD0A0A2-B9E5-4433-87C0-68B6B72699C7
      1953523712        1423        
      1953525135          32         Sec GPT table
      1953525167           1         Sec GPT header

  • 2010 mbp won't start

    Hello Everyone:
    MY mid-2010 MBP won't start and instead of the usual start up chime, I get a relatively short beep every few seconds until I turn it of. once in a while< like now< it starts but according to my teen, video is very choppy. i watch video but different  speed i think.  I use a host site to stream videos like american horror story, scandal, walking dead but no japanese anime - which is what my kid watches as well. But he also watches tv shows from a similar site but finds all videos in general-choppy.  I've seen some choppiness in the scandal video; i would have thought it would have been the Walking Dead. Can anyone tell me what they feel my system's issue is?
    I have another issue but i believe they're completely unrelated so i'll post it separately (that's a hopeful invite for all your mac "doctors" who love to 'heal'.)
    Thanks again, in advance, for your help.
    Regards,
    Ciaochiao

    It's probably a failing graphics processor. The 2010 MBP are notorious for that: MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010): Intermittent black screen or loss of video - Apple Support

  • Upgrading RAM and SSD versus Purchasing a New MBP

    Hi Apple Community. What are your thoughts on upgrading my mid-2010 MBP with more RAM and an 380 GB SSD HD versus purchasing a new MBP with the faster processor et al? The upgrade would run me about $500, whereas a new laptop would cost me much more. Here are my current specs: 2.4 GHz, 13-in MBP, 4GB RAM and running Mountain Lion. I use my laptop mainly for web browsing, office and streaming music/videos. I don't do much photo editing other than occasionally using Gimp. Thanks for your help!

    For a bit over $600, you could upgrade your particular MBP to 16GB of RAM and a 480 GB SSD and get a remarkable increase in speed. A new MBP would cost about $1,400 more and that's with a maximum of 8 GB of RAM. You'd get a longer warranty with AppleCare with the new one (for another $250). You also have a graphics processor on yours but a new 13" MBP has only the built-in graphics. The only thing I'd miss is the USB 3.0 ports vs the USB 2.0 ports you have.
    Upgrading your current Mac sounds like a speedy and economical choice.

  • How do I use my iMac(late 2009) as a monitor for my MBP(2012) or my MBP(late 2010) without software?

    I currently have a late 2009 iMac, a 2012 MBP, a mid 2010 MBP and a MinDisplay Port (MDP) male to male cable. I am trying to either use the iMac a second monitor for one of the MBPs or mirror the display.
    The iMac has a MDP port and is running OS X 10.7.5 (Lion)
    The MBP 2010 has a MDP port and is running OS X 10.8.4 (Mountain Lion)
    The MBP 2012 has a Thunderbolt port and is running OS X 10.9 (Maverics)
    When I connect the 2010 MBP to the iMac with the MDP cable the screen of the iMac goes black and the MBP flashes blue. I have been looking for a solution and I have tried:
    Rebooting them in the order of: connecting the cable, turing on the MBP, then turing on the iMac
    Whilst they are on simply plugging the cable between the two
    Connecting them with the cable while they are on, then pressing cmd-f1 on the MBP
    Connecting them with the cable while they are on, then pressing cmd-f1 on the iMac
    Pressing cmd-f2 on the iMac, whilst there are connected, only toggles a black screen on the iMac
    Pressing cmd-f2 on the MBP doesn't do anything
    Every time I connect the MBP 2012 to the iMac with the MDP cable, the MBP screen goes black and the computor screen becomes unresponsive but the screen stays on and I have to reboot the MBP.
    I will really appreciate anyone who has any information on this topic.
    Thanks

    If the iMac is a 21-inch model, not without using a product such as ScreenRecycler over a network.
    If the iMac is a 27-inch model, click here for information.
    (127021)

  • Has anyone worked out how to fix screen flicker on MBP late 2010 running snow leopard?

    Hey, I have a MBP late 2010 (MacBookPro6,2) running Snow Leopard 10.6.8 and I'm having trouble with external screens. They work fine 70% percent of the time but the rest of the time there is intermittent flickering. This I have determined is a something with the computer and not the screen as other computers work on the screens without fault and the problem occurs on multiple screens when using the same laptop. This is a video of the flickering, http://youtu.be/vvAlhDQD7iw . I think it might be something in Snow Leopard as the problem does not persist when I'm using bootcamp. I think the flickering might have started after one of the Snow Leopard updates (10.6.4 maybe?) but this is not definate. I've had this problem for at least the last year but with a ramp in university work this semester this problem is really starting to be annoying. I tried turning off "Automatic graphics switching" and this had no effect whatsoever. The graphics card is a NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M. I had a look for updated drivers from NVidia but these would not install saying the system was incompatible. I have seen similar problems on here and other places but either they have not had a solution or have had a solution which did not fix the problem for me. Anyhelp would be great, specially if Apple would tell me how to fix it.
    Regards Richard

    Thanks Guys, I didn't try the different display settings as this wouldn't affect multiple screens (and when other computers are plugged in they use the same frequencies). I did try the update posted above but unfortunately this hasn't worked. So I decided to bite the nail and reinstalled Snow Leopard on top of the previous installation (ie without erasing the HD) and then updating it. It seems to be running better so may have been a problem with one of the updates. I'll report back if the flickering comes back though.

  • 320Gb HD to a 512Gb SSD on 13" MBP (late 2010)

    I have a 13" MBP (late 2010) with a 320Gb HD. I would like to upgrade to a 512Gb SSD. Any recommendations? Thoughts?

    Thank you for you input! I appreciate it!
    Would you happen to know what else would change with a new SSD? I read that they have a few inconveniences relatig to how many times you can rewrite over a same spot on the SSD that regular HD's don't have... but the fact that it would run cooler, be somewhat faster really makes me want to buy it! I guess I'll wait until the prices lower a bit more so I can get a good deal on more Gb's.
    Thanks again!
    S.

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