Satellite L100 power supply keeps failing

Hi all,
I have an L100. A few weeks ago, the main power supply (the transformer brick) failed, so I replaced it (with a genuine Toshiba part).
Now the same thing has happened, 2 weeks later.
What could be causing this?
Thanks
Richard

Hi
You mean the AC adaptor?
Its not easy to say maybe its a simple bad luck.
I bought my first notebook 9 years ago. After 6 month if usage the AC adaptor was faulty and I had to replace it
But since 8 years its working fine
PS: If the AC adaptor is only 2 weeks old then the warranty should be valid
Contact the dealer and ask for a replacement.
Cheers

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I am a volunteer. I am not an HP employee.
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What does out of regulation limits means ?
1 red "OUTPUT FAIL," normally is off but illuminates when power supply outputs are out of regulation limits
Thanks
Rosa

Hi,
Seet this:
LED
Meaning
INPUT OK
AC-input power supplies:
•Green—Source AC voltage is OK. (Input voltage is 85 VAC or greater.)
•Off—Source AC voltage falls below 70 VAC, is not present, or the PEM is turned off.
DC-input power supplies:
•Green—Source DC voltage is OK. (-40.5 VDC or greater.)
•Off—Source DC voltage falls below -33 VDC or is not present at the PEM.
FAN OK
Green—Power supply fan is operating properly.
Off—Power supply fan failure is detected.
OUTPUT FAIL
Red—Problem with one or more of the DC-output voltages of the power supply is detected.
Off—DC-output voltages within acceptable margins.
Note For proper operation of the OUTPUT FAIL LED, systems with single power supplies must be configured with a minimum of one fan tray and one supervisor engine. Systems with dual power supplies must have a minimum configuration of one fan tray, one supervisor engine, and one additional module. Failure to meet these minimum configuration requirements can cause a false power supply output fail signal.
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http://www.cisco.com/en/US/docs/switches/lan/catalyst6500/hardware/Chassis_Installation/Cat6500/0apwsply.html#wp1025570
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Mac Pro power supply replacement?

We're on our yacht in Hobart, Tasmania. No access to Apple Store.
Re: Mac Pro 2006, how do I assess whether the power supply is failing?
I ask because we have experienced several times over the past couple of years the following issue. Typically in the morning I see the Mac Pro has shut down and will not startup. I go through the SMC reset procedure as per Article: HT1806. The straight forward "press the SMC Reset button" never works. Sometimes just pulling the power cord for a few minutes works. Yesterday was one of the "hard cases". None of the usual voodoo worked, so I left the Mac Pro for about 6 hours with power and all cables disconnected.
When I reconnected power the MP began a familiar 17 second cycle, both sets of Memory Riser Card Diagnostic LEDs illuminate for about 3 seconds, fans start, shutdown (repeat).
Pressing down the SMC RST button stops this loop, but still cannot startup.
Yesterday I pulled the top memory riser, left MP off for 30 minutes then when I reconnected power I could startup successfully. Shutdown, reinsert top rise, restart success.
I called Apple support, authorized a case. The tech went off to consult for 10 minutes or so, then came back and said "we think your power supply is probably stuffed".
To obtain a replacement supply here in Hobart is going to be difficult and expensive. So any advice on how to improve our assessment of the true source of this problem would be much appreciated.
The famous and helpful "Hatter" once suggested to another troubled Mac Pro owner to "leave the computer disconnected from power overnight". My experience is that the longer time disconnected is related to success, but I do not understand why. Why is overnight helpful?
PS - I've not done the following procedure yet, and because it is from the 2008 Mac Pro service manual it may not apply to the 2006 exactly as written. I'm including this info for the benefit of searchers who come along in the future:
Power Supply Verification
To power on, the computer’s logic board requires “trickle” power. If the system fails to power on, first reset the SMC as described in this chapter. If the computer still doesn’t power on, follow the procedure outlined below to determine whether the issue is related to the power supply.
Verify trickle power
Diagnostic LED 2 indicates the presence of trickle power required by the logic board to begin the startup process.
LED 2 should be yellow when the DIAG_ LED button is pressed, indicating that trickle voltage is present.
Verify Power Supply Is Providing Power
Diagnostic LED 8 indicates that the main power is OK and within regulation. Plug in AC power cord, and press the power-on button on the front panel.
LED 8 should be green when the DIAG_ LED button is pressed, indicating that the main power is OK and within regulation.
If diagnostic LED 5 and LED 6 are both solidly illuminated at power up, improperly seated power supply cables could be one cause of this behavior. Check all power supply cable connections to ensure they are properly seated.
PSS - I have recently replaced the PRAM battery.

Are you getting a chime?
The chime says the computer passed the first part of the Power-On Self-Test, and if enough working RAM and a boot drive can be found, booting is likely. Lack of a chime says something else is amiss.
The usual procedure in cases of no chime is to pretend that something is loading down the power supply. So you remove all the drives and the graphics card and everything except a minimum of RAM, and look for the chime. If you get to the chime, then you add back the graphics card so you can see what is happening, and boot to the Installer DVD. then bring back an item at a time and see when it craps out.

Can Someone tell me the symptoms of a failing power supply?

My system is having lots of problems, especially running games and graphics apps.
When running a game my PC just hangs(not a shut down, just locked screen). This forces me to do a hard reset.
All my components test fine individually...
I'm wondering if this problem can be caused by a failing power supply that isn't delivering adequate power to my motherboard.
Please help!!!

It turns out that my power supply hasn't really failed... It just can't handle my new rig. After calculating that nearly 100 watts of 3.3v are required to keep my 1.5Gig's of ram juiced, there was no way that my cheap little no-name NON-UL listed PSU is going to be able to keep up!
So, here's what I did about that.
tt-420
:D
I got it from newegg (great store, which is willing to adjust prices if you can get through on the phone, make a reasonable reference to a site that is selling the same item for less, AND you bug the hell out of them for long enough that they'll give in just to get rid of you. ) for $55USD.
I also did this about that. I thought that I might as well have a beauty new case to put all this great hardware in. :P
tt-5000a
I also got this at newegg. They knocked off the shipping for me, in an effort to do some price matching. Makes it within $2 of the best price I could find elsewhere, GOOD ENOUGH!
I can't wait to get my new rig all setup (and possibly hovering due to all the fans 8o )
Thanks for the insight go to all who replied... CHEERS!
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My 27" Imac (A1312/EMC2390) keeps shutting down unexpectedly with no warning or "screen of death". I replaced the power supply, reset the SMC, and zapped the PRAM, but the problem continues. Can anyone help me?

My 27" Imac (A1312/EMC2390) keeps shutting down unexpectedly with no warning or "screen of death". So far I reset the SMC, and zapped the PRAM. I even replaced the power supply but the problem continues. My error and system logs seem unhelpful too. Can anyone help me out?

You can get a shutdown like that if the computer gets too hot. Make sure the air intakes on the bottom and the exhaust vent on the top are clean and are not blocked by something in your workspace like papers or the back of the computer being too close to part of the furniture. You need a good six inches (15cm) of clearance between the exhaust slot and other objects or surfaces.
Anti-virus/internet security software, especially the "pay for" kinds, can increase operating temps. So can third-party backup software furnished with many "name-brand" external hard drives.
Fan motors and/or temperature sensors can fail. If you have the original grey disks that shipped with your iMac, find the on that has Apple Hardware Test (AHT) and run it. If you have a failed heat sensor or fan motor, it will detect it with an error code containing "SNS" if it's a bad sensor or "MOT" if its a bad fan motor.
AHT instructions here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1509
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