Screen choice question - 2011 MacBook Pro

I'm trying to decide on a configuration for a new MacBook Pro and I'm wondering if upgrading to the hi-res screen is worth the extra $$?
I'm going to get the 15" 2.0 i7 model, possibly with the faster 500gb hard drive.
I don't do ANY gaming but I do use Photoshop fairly regularly and I use iMovie to edit home video. Down the road I may get Final Cut to get more heavily into video editing.
What do y'all recommend I get, and why?

I recently upgraded to the new 2011 MBP, 15" 2.2i7 model as well. The first system I got was declared DOA after 2 days. When I returned to the apple store they gave me, for free, the 2.3ghz i7 with the upgraded hi-res anti-glare display.
HUGE difference. Let me say this again. HUGE difference.
Clarity and crispness of the display is amazing. The extra screen real estate is a huge plus as well. I agree with the last post though, if you're vision is really bad the text does get considerably smaller. I personally just wanted it for the anti-glare screen so even if I had to change to a higher resolution, not staring into a glass mirror while I work is worth it. I HATE that apple uses those cheesy glass-y displays by default now. They're terrible for real users.
Kevin

Similar Messages

Screen blinking when turning on my Mid 2011 MacBook Pro after recent update.

Just did the recent software update and my Mid 2011 MacBook Pro 13" when turning on the screen blinks until the computer is rebooted/restarted. Have never had a problem before. Of course, my Apple Care just expired the end of June 2014. Is anyone else having a problem?

When you have the problem, note the exact time: hour, minute, second.
These instructions must be carried out as an administrator. If you have only one user account, you are the administrator.
Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
The title of the Console window should be All Messages. If it isn't, select
          SYSTEM LOG QUERIES ▹ All Messages
from the log list on the left. If you don't see that list, select
          View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar at the top of the screen.
Each message in the log begins with the date and time when it was entered. Scroll back to the time you noted above.
Select the messages entered from then until the end of the episode, or until they start to repeat, whichever comes first.
Copy the messages to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message by pressing command-V.
The log contains a vast amount of information, almost all of it useless for solving any particular problem. When posting a log extract, be selective. A few dozen lines are almost always more than enough.
Please don't indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Please don't post screenshots of log messages—post the text.
Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting.

Late 2011 Macbook Pro green pixels on the screen where dark colors should appear.

I have a late 2011 Macbook Pro I bought it new with 4 gb of ram. About 4 months ago i purchased 8 gb of pny ram for this model and upgraded the ram. I followed all of the safety precautions and discharged my static electricity before upgrading. It increased the speed of my mac and helps with certain tasks. About 2-3 weeks i notices my mac froze and strange green black and pink bars appeared on the screen so i hold the power button to shut it down and it solves the problem this will happen about once a month but otherwise my mac works perfect. Now about a month ago I powered my mac on and low and behold The screen was covered in green pixels. I tried rebooting twice and it didn't do anything then i let it sleep for about 5 mins opened my mac and the green pixels were gone. Now my mac is still usable and everything works its just sometimes like once in a while ill get a few pixels and closing and opening my mac fixes it. I was curious if this was related to one another or is my mac just starting to die....

I have been getting green pixels/boxes the last while...
I have noticed it after waking the machine from sleep. Not 100% sure if that is the only time it happens. It goes away after a few seconds, typically.
Any idea what is going on?

I have the new 2011 macbook pro, with lion preinstalled. I want to change the harddrive. I have backed up everything on time machine. when i put my new blank hard drive in will the lion screen startup.How do i get the lion dmg when i am already using lion

I have the new 2011 macbook pro, with lion preinstalled. I want to change the harddrive. I have backed up everything on time machine. when i put my new blank hard drive in will the lion screen startup.How do i get the lion dmg when i am already using lion

NicholasLiban -
When you use the Lion restore as described, it does a fresh install on the hard drive that you can select at the beginning of the process. This provides a complete install of the very latest version of Lion, including the recovery partition. The drive that you choose for the installation destination winds up like what you would have on a brand new computer from Apple.
- Randy

I have a late 2011 macbook pro i want to reinstall os lion 10.7 so when i reboot hold down options key click on recovery hd then in the os x utilities screen it says reinstall mac os x is there any way i can save this download so i can burn to dvd

i have a late 2011 macbook pro i want to reinstall os lion 10.7 so when i reboot hold down options key click on recovery hd then in the os x utilities screen it says reinstall mac os x is there any way i can save this download so i can burn to dvd

steve359 wrote:
Sorry ... I read but was unfortunately distracted from your original post. You have a system that came with Lion. The Lion that is on your system is only for your computer and cannot be downloaded from the app store again because you never purchased it officially through the App Store.
Try this for making an external USB/DVD copy of Recovery on an external disk. internet is still required for reinstall, though, I believe: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4848. But at least you have a separate Recovery Partition if you ever need a fully new and empty internal disk.
Your assumption is incorrect. Although he may not be able to download it from the App store he can download it directly for the Apple servers using the recovery partition on his original drive.
All you have to do is start the install routine and then point the install to an external hard drive. Once the download is finished the computer will reboot to start the install. At that reboot disconnect the external drive so the install can not start. Boot the computer back into the OS on the internal hard drive, which is what will happen automatically once the external drive is disconnected. Then connect the external and copy the files from it that were downloaded. Right click on that downloaded package file and select Show contents. In the contents of that package is a file called InstallESD.DMG. Copy that file out of the package and burn it down to a DVD or USB thumb drive and you now have the Full Lion Installer. I have several of them laying around on different hard drives and 2 USB thumb drives which I have used to reinstall Lion on my 15" MBP.
Sorry OP I should of just typed this out in my first post.

2011 Macbook Pro white screen after apple logo and spinning wheel

Hey there guys,
My 2011 Macbook Pro has encountered some problems. Firstly while i was at school, i opened up my computer, usually the computer would require you to type your password, but my login page became fuzzy, white lines everywhere. So I restarted my computer and everything was okay. After that i came back home, my computer was running fine, after surfing the net for a few hours, my whole computer suddenly became blue. So what i did was i just restarted my computer, after that my computer would boot up Apple logo would come up, the spinning wheel would also come up, after 30-40 secs it would turn black screen and come back on as a white screen and would just stay like that. It would be on the white screen. Tried some rebooting ways but all didn't work.
1st: I wanna know whats the problem?
2nd: Is this a harddrive failure? (Because i have alot of important documents and personal stuff in my hard drive and i hope it isn't a crashed hardrive)
Thanks for your help..
PS: Im running on Moutain Lion, but i have no idea what version it is.

Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store.
Back up all data on the internal drive(s) before you hand over your computer to anyone. If privacy is a concern, erase the data partition(s) with the option to write zeros* (do this only if you have at least two complete, independent backups, and you know how to restore to an empty drive from any of them.) Don’t erase the recovery partition, if present.
Keeping your confidential data secure during hardware repair
*An SSD doesn't need to be zeroed.

Early 2011 Macbook Pro - Black screen at random

I have an early 2011 Macbook Pro, running Mac OS X (10.7.5). Seemingly at random, the screen will go black and the only way to get it back is to hold the power button down. When it turns back on, everything is running as normal. It's been happening more and more frequently, so I'm wondering is this a problem I can fix on my own? Can it be fixed or is it just a glitch I should just deal with?
(Please explain everything to me as if I were a 5-year-old)

Early 2011 15" Macbook Pro.
Add me to the long list of customers experiencing display issues. HUGE problems with a blank screen when waking from sleep and difficulty starting up (video glitches & hi fan speed). After about 6 months and 2 genius bar visits I finally did a complete HD wipe/clean install of Mavericks with all of the default settings.
The situation has improved only slightly overall, but at first things were great. I was confident I had it licked.
As I restored apps & profile settings things start to get wonky. The last install I did was Picasa (I thought this app was the culprit before the wipe). I successfully restored my Picasa settings and all was fine. I even closed the lid and when I opened it the next day the screen came right back on. Then I tried to sync my iPhone and BAM! Screen goes out and the system is hung (no response to keystrokes or sound events).
Power button shutdown.
Restarted and the Macbook hung as the previously opened apps reopened.
Power button shutdown again.
Restart this time was normal and everything opened just fine. The console logs show NOTHING indicate any issues or that the machine experienced a kernel panic or anything like that.
It's been 1 whopping 36 hours since my clean install and I've already crashed twice.
But now I use my Macbook with anxiety as I never know when it's going to crap out again. Maybe it's time I switch back to Linux on an inexpensive wintel laptop as I won't buy another Apple laptop if this is the what I should expect from a $2000 machine.
Incidently, I also have a 2010 MB pro which had dispaly issues and Apple replaced the logic board at no cost (out of warranty) as part of a replacement program. I've seen MANY forum posts suggesting that Apple should step up and provide the same level of service for the Early 2011 MB Pros... I tend to agree.

Late 2011 Macbook Pro suffers from screen corruption on wake up

My late 2011 Macbook Pro suffers from screen corruption on wake up - once password is entered the screen refreshes and performs OK. As hardware must be OK is there a driver or software fix?
My late 2011 Macbook Pro (running Lion) suffers from screen corruption on wake up - once password is entered the screen refreshes and performs OK.
Do othres sufffer from this? and as hardware must be OK is there a driver or software fix?
Thanks.

Hi I wanted to let you know that the hard drive is bad I am meeting with the apple manager tomorrow since my laptop is no longer under warranty but I had previously brought the laptop in for the same black screen when the warranty was good.. Have any pointers on how to approach them ? I'm seriously disheartened by this especially since my 2006 white MacBook is running like a champ with no problems ever which is why I decided to buy another MacBook but one that was capable of running Lion

Green flicker pixels on my screen (Early 2011 MacBook Pro)

I have a green flicker pixels on my screen (Early 2011 MacBook Pro) when I click on "menu" options at top of screen and very visable when I open a browser. I've update all software, even as recent as the infamous EFI 2.3 update. Please Help! I have not been able to find an answer anywhere!!!

hi did you resolve your flickering pixels issue I have same problem thanks Tim

My early 2011 MacBook Pro 15" non-glare display has developed a dark band at the edges of the screen approximately the same width as the aluminum surround. This wasn't present when the MBP was new. Am near an Apple Store, but anyone else had this problem

My early 2011 MacBook Pro 15" non-glare display has developed a dark band at the edges of the screen approximately the same width as the aluminum surround. This wasn't present when the MBP was new. I'm near an Apple Store and can take the laptop in, but has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks for your input. I didn't completely flesh out what I'm seeing visually. The resolution settings are all correct for my screen. The problem is if, say, looking at the gray startup screens or a completely white full-screen image, there is a perimeter of graying, almost as if the LEDs are somehow not as bright as the rest. It's also curious that the thickness of this phenomenon is almost exactly the same as the metal bezel around the display. I will be taking it to an Apple Store for a look, as I'm also having several minor hardware problems that need to be addressed and remedied.

Trying to update OS on 2011 macbook pro. stuck on purple screen

trying to update OS on 2011 macbook pro. stuck on purple screen

Ok. Do you remember what you were updating? Like Itunes or a security update. And did you let it complete and install? To install the update, it usually asks for your password and sometime asks you to restart. Here are some options to try. http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203176

Early 2011 MacBook Pro logic board upgrade question

I have an early 2011 MacBook Pro 17'. Will a late 2011 logic board fit in the unibody of an early 2011? My logic board crashed and I'm looking to install a new one myself. I just need to see if I can upgrade mine at all. I want to purchase a logic board with a faster processor and hopefully not as prone to the GPU failure. Any recommendations?

You have the problem discussed in a number of discussions on this forum, most notably here -> https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4766577?tstart=0.
Basically the GPU in the machine was poorly soldered onto the logic board. If you take the machine into an Apple Store, they will recommend a logic board replacement. This, however, will not permanently fix the problem. The only permanent fix is to have the GPU 'reballed' - this will cost about $160 and some services offer up to a year's warranty on their work.
I had the problem back in January and, as I was under AppleCare, had my logic board replaced gratis. Once I'm left with no warranty, I will have the GPU reballed.
Take a look at some of the discussion and see some of the photos which are just like yours. The only remedy is the reball.
Good luck,
Clinton

Can not shut down late 2011 MacBook Pro and turn it back on again without the hard drive disappearing?

Ok, I have searched for months for an answer to this question to no avail, probably because no one has experienced it before. I am hoping however that you guys can help me figure this one out cause it is driving me nuts! Also, I am not entirely sure what section of the support I should put this under so if I stick it in the wrong place, I apologize.
Right now my problem is very simple. When I turn off my laptop, and then try to turn it back on, my internal hard drive disappears... and I get the blinking folder with a question mark on it. I have figured out something interesting however. I have an install disk with Ubuntu Linux on it. If I boot into that first, then RESTART the laptop, not shut down and turn back on, it reads the internal hard drive just fine and I can boot as if there is nothing wrong.
Second part to the problem... If I allow the laptop in either OSX or Windows to go to sleep (aka shut off the hard drive but the computer remains on), when I attempt to wake it up, I am greeted with the usual log in screen of whichever OS I am in, but is frozen and after a few seconds goes black and restarts the computer to find that... Surprise! The hard drive is gone
I have tried every trick in the book that I can think of, but can not seem to come up with a solution to the problem... I know when the problem happened and if anyone thinks that that will help them figure this out I will type everything I did up till, including the crash that caused this, and my attempted fixes, but I have class right now so only if you guys want it I will type all that out.
What I am currently running is:
2011 MacBook Pro 13in screen
4Gb of Ram
1TB internal Hard Drive
OSX 10.11.whatever the newest update is... just updated the other day again.
Windows 8.1 on BootCamp 5 (yea I know its not supposed to work but it does) again, fully updated
Ubuntu 13.10 (I think? Doesn't really matter, its just an install disk I use to boot the computer)
If there is anything else that you guys need me to provide, I can, just simply ask. I can provide as much info as is necessary.

Sorry it took me so long to write back, But unfortunately this didn't help my issue.
My uncle and I did a lot of tests on this computer and have narrowed down the location of the problem a little bit.
We tried to first reset the SMC and the NVRAM as suggested, but the only thing that did was make the fans run on full tilt for the first session after restarting it for some reason. After that we tried re installing OSX over the OSX that was already on the system (not removing any of the files). This also didn't do anything but make refit stop working. Then we moved onto the next task at hand by removing the hard drive entirely and booting it as an external drive from one of the USB ports... as long as you booted it with the options key held down, it worked perfectly fine. Then we put an alternative hard drive into the computer and installed OSX on that. This time there was no trouble booting anything up. Everything seemed to work flawlessly. So we made a backup of my original drive (OSX, Windows, and all) onto an external hard drive and tested booting to it via USB. That again worked perfectly fine and booted right up with no problems. So after that we formatted the original hard drive and reinstated OSX. We then proceeded to transfer all the old files from the backup onto this new installation and LOW AND BEHOLD..... we were back to square one with it refusing to recognize the hard drive again.
So this basically told us that there appears to be something either wrong with the hard drive, or something got really screwed up in the software along the lines and by me copying all my old files back over, I just ended up bringing the screwed up file back over with it! (despite not copying over any settings of any kind) So I am still extremely confused as to what is going wrong... did some boot sector possibly get screwed up may be?

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

13-inch, Late 2011 Macbook Pro and Thunderbold Display...

Hello Dear Users,
First I wish you have a nice new year with full of health, happiness and wealth, then i am asking my question:
I am using a 13-inch, Late 2011 MacBook Pro having
Processor 2,8 GHz Intel Core i7 2 cores+2 HTs
Memory 16 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
Graphics Intel HD Graphics 3000 512 MB
Software OS X 10.9.1 (13B42)
specifications, setup with double Thunderbold Displays.
I sometimes feel that mac's display performance is marvelous and sometimes I feel like I am looking at an old school, blury screen. Is there anybody feels like I feel. I have doubts about screen performance. Well I searched on internet before to write but I could not express what I feel on google search for example. So, I am writing here what I feel. Sorry for my English if I could not express what I meant.
Thak you, and have a nice new year.....
Levent

I've been having the exact same issue, same monitor and same laptop. I spoke to a couple Apple techs on the phone and took my mbp to a genius bar last night, thinking it might be a video card issue since the blocks were also showing up on my macbook's screen. It of course failed to replicate at the store, even with a TB display hooked up.
After this I finally realized it was an issue with the monitor and not the laptop, since it only happened when they were connected (duh... I never checked with them disconnected)
I was able to make it go away temporarily by pushing the cables on the back of the display firmly in, but a few hours later I noticed a couple blocks popping up again.. however it wasn't as bad as before. Seems to me it must be some issue with the hardwired power/tb connetor.

Screen choice question - 2011 MacBook Pro

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