Screen Rotate 90° on new Mac Pro fails

I have a NEC MultiSync LCD 3090WQXi (2560x1600 pixels) hooked up to my new Mac Pro (late 2013, AMD FirePro D500 3072 MB graphics), which I transferred from my old Mac Pro (early 2009). Whereas the Display System Preference would correctly rotate the screen 90° on the old Mac Pro, it will not do so on the new one. Clearly, there is enough VRAM to support this task, but when I attempt to do so, only non-optimum resolutions, much smaller than the display is capable of showing will work, competely distorting the screen objects.

I appreciate the thought, but I'm not looking for someone to take wild stabs at what the problem might be.
As I indicated above, this is not a cabling issue. If that were the case, the cable would not be able to address the resloution in either orientation, yet it works fine horizontally. This is either a hardware issue in the graphics card or more likely a software issue.
FYI, the NEC monitors do not have DisplayPorts, so your cable suggestion is moot. The only existing solution is a Dual-Link DVI-D to MiniDisplay Port adapter. The standard DVI-D to MiniDisplay Port cable will not support 2560x1600 pixels.

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Multiple desktops and dual screens really aren't meant to work together. Apple came up with this multiple desltops feature and never really thought about users that use a dual monitor setup. So use either multiple desktops OR dual monitors but not both. Also don't try to use any App in Full Screen Mode as that doesn't work with dual screen setups either.

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However...
Disregarding the cost, my time is valuable and I probably spend a good 3 solid days getting something non functional to work. There will be continual inefficiencies because I'm not a Windows shop, and I don't foresee this.
Will any 'new' Mac Pro, regardless of the cost, get me to the speed using Premiere Pro of this 6 core 3.2ghz i7 3930K? If I get the answer that the Mac 12 core will get me there, it may be a viable option. If the 6 core will get me 80% there, it might be the 'best buy' option.
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Thanks Eric and Harm for the helpful answers. I was hoping that Windows 7 had evolved to the point where knowning and using some of the troubleshooting techniques that Harm mentioned would not have to be necessary. I do have the ability / skill, etc, but not necessarily the desire to troubleshoot, but was kind of hoping that I wouldn't need to get to this level on such a simple installation, really it was just CS 5.5 and Video drivers. It is very possible the KVM was blocking on the USB request. This occasionally will happen with a hung device on Mac OS X and firewire, but usually it times out after a while. However there have been those odd times where I needed to unplug everything and even do a NVRAM reset on the Mac to get it back. This is pretty rare though. I even have my Mac set to 'verbose mode' which leaves the unix console up on boot and shutdown so I can track offending things like this. Maybe there is a Windows equivalent to this, which would have been helpful. Knowing that there might be some request that wasn't returning, I left Windows in this state for hours, it never got back. I had no choice but to hard restart it. I didn't examine logs and such, though I could have. I just want it to work or to fail gracefully, and not fail in such a way that makes it unusable and unrecoverable without in depth troubleshooting. I also have to use the KVM, without it I can't possibly use the system. So if the KVM makes the PC hang, then I can't use the PC. It doesn't make my Mac hang.
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32gb RAM
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No, it shouldn't. If you are having problems with third-party software, I'd suggest reinstalling them from scratch and original media.
As for disk repairs you do it this way:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions - Mavericks, Lion/Mountain Lion
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported then click on the Repair Permissions button. When the process is completed, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.

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Hi all,
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Ta!
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Port two does the same thing.
I've now narrowed it down to the nVIDIA drivers in OS X.
Windows XP - Works 100%
Ubuntu 8.10 - Works 100%
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OS X - DOES NOT WORK!
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I get this message three separate times ove a couple of minutes.
Under the "Go" button in the Finder menu, I've clicked on "Connect to server..." and cleared the old mac out of the list.
What am I missing??
Thanks

Common causes of this issue include the following:
Aliases in the iPhoto, iTunes, or iMovie library pointing to the server.
Bookmarks in the Preview application.
See iMovie Troubleshooting: Connection Failed, Server Does Not Exist
Otherwise, proceed as below.
Please read this whole message before doing anything. This procedure is a test, not a solution. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it. Step 1 The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is localized to your user account. Enable guest logins* and log in as Guest. For instructions, launch the System Preferences application, select Help from the menu bar, and enter “Set up guest users” (without the quotes) in the search box. Don't use the Safari-only “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac.” While logged in as Guest, you won’t have access to any of your personal files or settings. Applications will behave as if you were running them for the first time. Don’t be alarmed by this; it’s normal. If you need any passwords or other personal data in order to complete the test, memorize, print, or write them down before you begin. Test while logged in as Guest. Same problem? After testing, log out of the guest account and, in your own account, disable it if you wish. Any files you created in the guest account will be deleted automatically when you log out of it. *Note: If you’ve activated “Find My Mac” or FileVault, then you can’t enable the Guest account. The “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac” is not the same. Create a new account in which to test, and delete it, including its home folder, after testing. Step 2 The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party system modifications that load automatically at startup or login. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Boot in safe mode* and log in to the account with the problem. The instructions provided by Apple are as follows:
Shut down your computer, wait 30 seconds, and then hold down the shift key while pressing the power button.
When you see the gray Apple logo, release the shift key.
If you are prompted to log in, type your password, and then hold down the shift key again as you click Log in.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
*Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t boot in safe mode.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of steps 1 and 2.

HT2844 My front headphone jack does not work when connecting a head phone to a new mac pro desktop computer. The sound still comes from the speakers. Any solutions?

The front headphone jack on my new mac pro desktop computer does not transmit sound when connecting a headphone or ear buds. The sound still comes from the speakers and is not redirected to the head phone. The port has never worked. Any solutions?

okay, try option-clicking on the speaker icon on the top of your screen. That should bring up a list of sound output options. including headphone. You could try messing around with Audio MIDI. It may be possible that the thing is still stuck inside the headphone jack. Careful use of a toothpick may get it unstuck. I dunno, I've never had a problem with the headphone jack. If all else fails, call Apple or take 'er in for an appointment
JB

Using a 30" Cinema Display with new Mac Pro

Hello Everyone:
I just purchased, and waiting to arrive a new 2014 8 core Mac Pro which is an upgrade to my 2009 quad core Mac Pro. I currently use a 30 inch Apple Cinema display which has the DVI connection. I was thinking that I would use a DVI to HDMI adapter and plug the 30" into the HDMI port on the new Mac Pro. I have since heard that people have been having issues with this older monitor getting it to work properly with the new mac pro. some have suggested buy the $99 mini display port to DVI adapter and using that, but I don't believe there is a mini display port on the new mac pro.
I have considered buying a new thunderbolt display because I am assuming that it will have a much better image quality than the older 30 in display but I hate the fact that it's a 27" and I would be giving up the 3" in size. I do a lot of video and audio recording editing and love the extra screen real-estate. Can anyone confirm a couple of things for me?
1. Will the 30 inch display work with a new mac pro and can I use the DVI to HDMI adapter?
2. Does the new Thunderbolt display have a much better image quality than the 30 in display and because its newer, will look that much better with the mach pro?
Thank you in advance.

1. Will the 30 inch display work with a new Mac Pro?
Yes.
Can I use the DVI to HDMI adapter?
Not if you want full resolution. You need a Mini DisplayPort to dual-link DVI adapter
<http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-ada pter>
It plugs into a Thunderbolt port (and USB port) on the computer.
2. Does the new Thunderbolt display have a much better image quality than the 30 in display and because its newer, will look that much better with the Mac Pro?
No, it has more pixels (in the vertical direction), but they are spaced a bit more apart, so you don't want to be as close to the display.

A brand new Mac Pro doesn't wake up from sleep

I got a new Mac Pro.
It has an external SATA controller and a video card with NVIDIA Quadro 4000 chipset on it.
It has a Snow Leopard installed.
The problem it has is that it doesn't wake up once it goes to sleep, either by choosing "Sleep" menu item or by using "Energy Saving" setting.
I notice some people mention a keyboard doesn't respond while his trackpad does. In my case, nothing works.
I don't know if it is due to keyboard or a magic mouse. I tried to connect another wired mouse to the enclosure of the Mac Pro directly, but it did't cause Mac Pro wake up.
By searching on Google, many people seem to have this problem, whether they have Mac Pro, MacBook Pro, and so on.
Personally, I have a 17" PPC iMac, 13" MacBook with Core Duo 2, and have used MacBook Pro 17", but they didn't have this problem.
I tried to reset the SMC, but it didn't help.
Do anyone know what cause this problem and how to solve it?
Is there any patch for this?
Thank you.

Does it sound like it's waking up but the monitor just doesn't display anything?
I ask because if so, I'm experiencing the same problem. I have a Quad-Core Mac Pro (no external devices) and if it goes to sleep I have difficulty getting it to display anything on the monitor after waking it up. Now, I just recently hooked up an additional monitor (VGA) for dual display, and the funny thing is, that monitor will wake, but my main monitor won't.
Sometimes I get this error after boot-up too, where the computer will get to the login screen, but my main monitor is receiving no signal ("at least according to my monitor").
If that's the same issue, then I'll post any success I find for you!
Best,
J

Take 45s to boot a brand new Mac Pro

Hi Mac Pro folks
I just got a brand new Mac Pro running Mountain Lion. It came with a 512MB SSD as the boot disk and a 2TB disk as the second drive. What I got confused is: after powering it on, the Mac Pro takes average 45s to boot to the white screen with an Apple logo.
This is actually the second Mac Pro, the previous one having the same configuration took 30 seconds to boot. As the previous one's second drive got clicking sound from the first day, Apple replaced the whole machine. Now the clicking sound has gone, but the second Mac Pro takes an even longer time to boot from SSD.
Is it normal? Has anyone ever experienced the same thing?
Thanks for any comments.
Regards,
B

It should be Apple genuine SSD, as the 512 MB SSD comes with the new Mac Pro. Please see below its information retreived from System Report. TRIM Support is enabled.
Intel ICH10 AHCI:
Vendor:    Intel
Product:    ICH10 AHCI
Link Speed:    3 Gigabit
Negotiated Link Speed:    3 Gigabit
Description:    AHCI Version 1.20 Supported
APPLE SSD SM512E:
Capacity:    500.28 GB (500,277,790,720 bytes)
Model:    APPLE SSD SM512E
Revision:    CXM07A1Q
Native Command Queuing:    Yes
Queue Depth:    32
Removable Media:    No
Detachable Drive:    No
BSD Name:    disk0
Medium Type:    Solid State
TRIM Support:    Yes
Bay Name:    Bay 1
Partition Map Type:    GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status:    Verified
Volumes:
disk0s1:
Capacity:    209.7 MB (209,715,200 bytes)
BSD Name:    disk0s1
Content:    EFI
MACPRO_SSD:
Capacity:    499.42 GB (499,418,034,176 bytes)
Available:    175.82 GB (175,817,490,432 bytes)
Writable:    Yes
File System:    Journaled HFS+
BSD Name:    disk0s2
Mount Point:    /
Content:    Apple_HFS
Recovery HD:
Capacity:    650 MB (650,002,432 bytes)
BSD Name:    disk0s3
Content:    Apple_Boot
This is a Mac Pro 5,1 so I would expect it should take less than 10 seconds to boot.
Moreover, the SSD is the only startup device under Startup Disk.
It seems the only PCI card is the ATI Radeon HD 5770 that comes with the system.
ATI Radeon HD 5770:
Name:    ATY,Hoolock
Type:    Display Controller
Driver Installed:    Yes
MSI:    Yes
Bus:    PCI
Slot:    Slot-1
Vendor ID:    0x1002
Device ID:    0x68b8
Subsystem Vendor ID:    0x106b
Subsystem ID:    0x00cf
Revision ID:    0x0000
Link Width:    x16
Link Speed:    5.0 GT/s
The hatter wrote:
Probably trying to use a 512MB boot device?
No it should take 10 seconds. That is what my SSD on Mac Pro 1,1.
PCIe cards can affect booting, especially if you boot from one.
3rd party SSD or not? \
firmware is current?
SSD is set to default startup disk control panel?
You've done ML Recovery and checked the SSD twice: the top of the drive to check partitions, the user volume to check the system directory.
If it is 3rd party what make?
Does it show TRIM is enabled in SATA entry in System Profile?
What else is installed.
Does not sound normal to me to replace anything except the hard drive for clicking, and then to just zero the drive.
I would never pay for disk drive from Apple when there are better prices and as good devices.

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Been saving for over a year and just bought a new Mac pro. The day after MacWorld with no upgrade announced ☹.
My configuration is the 2x 2.8Gh quad-core processors, 2 GB of RAM, ATI Graphic card (standard), and a 1TB hard drive in the first hard drive bay.
I am upgrading for the original 1 processor G5 (sounds so slow now). I am planning on taking my 1TB hard drive from that machine which contains my entire iTunes library, and its full! Mostly of legally ripped DVDs and TV shows.
I am planning on configuring my hard drives like so.
Drive Bay 1: 1TB drive, I am considering partition it so there are about 400 gigs on a boot drive for applications and libraries and using the other 400 or so gigs left over as a drop box for things from my over full iTunes hard drive. (TV shows which have ended, so the tags won’t be changed)
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Can I set up these mirrors I want with time machine? Also I have never partitioned a drive, I know you can do it in disk utility, is it a pretty self-explanatory process?
Is this set up of drives a good idea? A RAID seems too costly and just too much since I am not worried about response times of the drives, as long as my media plays properly I am generally happy. I do some work in PS and FCE but not enough to warrant percent scratch disks and RAIDed drives. I also read about a back up program called SuperDuper but it seems like time machine can do anything I would need super duper to do so is it worth the 30 bucks.
Also I have never used migration assistant, is that fairly painless or am I better off just syncing what I can with Mobile Me, and brining the rest of the things I need over VIA external hard drive? (Documents and pictures and such)
I haven’t gotten a new Mac in 5 years so are there any other tips you recommend when setting up my OS? I read somewhere to create an Admin profile that you never use for log in, and than your own profile? Just simple things like that. I have been browsing my old Macworld magazines looking for small tips!
Well thank you for reading my long post! I am super excited about this Mac to ship in 2-4 days I even shelled out for next day shipping so I didn’t have to want any longer than I needed to.
Thanks in advance.

I've had my MP just a few months, and like you I've filled the drive bays in no time.
I keep on top of things using two pieces of software;
CarbonCopyCloner - this runs two nightly 'incremental' bootable Clones of my OSX/iTunes/iPhoto 'System' HD, one to an internal drive, one to an external FW800 D2.
ChronoSync - This I use for everything else, work in progress & archives etc - During and towards the end of my jobs (I'm a photographer), I will use ChronoSync to perform perfectly synced Backups to external FW800 D2s and will soon be purchasing a NewerTech Voyager Q to facilitate the use of bare HDs for rotational backups.
Time Machine isn't a program I've looked into and frankly the way I work doesn't really require that 'Archive' backup style.

How do I speed up Lightroom on my new Mac Pro (2013)?

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Right now, here is what I am doing
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I love the features of being able to flag/unflag with P and U, star with 1-5, go full screen with F, zoom with Z, crop with R, etc., but the productivity potential that those fantastic keyboards shortcuts have is being utterly defeated by the fact that Lightroom is going SUPER slow even on this brand new 6-core Mac Pro. It literally is much slower than using Picasa or FastStone on a cheap Core i3 laptop with a regular HDD.
How can I configure Lightroom to use all six cores and more of the hard drive speed to speed up my workflow?
Obviously, Lightroom should be able to do much better if it were using more than 15% of the CPU and more than 1% of the SSD capability.
For me this is a SERIOUS problem and is preventing my new Mac Pro purchase from being any use to me. I am having to use other software right now to meet my production deadlines, and then go back through it later on Lightroom at a glacially slow pace. After a couple weeks of this duplicated workflow, I am just getting tired of it.

Maybe you could help us help you by providing your systen details in full the location of your files.
Thank you...

Screen Rotate 90° on new Mac Pro fails

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