Screws on Bottom of Casing

Hi everyone. So I just noticed that one of the screws from the bottom of my MacBook Pro is missing. I am looking for it everywhere (I know a certain room where it has to be since it was in there when I set the computer down and out when I picked it back up), but it doesn't look like I'll find it. If I bring it to the genius bar, can they just add in another screw for me? And possibly tighten the other ones? I have a few that are loose and I don't have a screw driver that fits. Thanks!

Hi a,
Only the Apple Store can answer that for sure, but I think your odds are very good.

Similar Messages

My iMac only has one screw on bottom to access memory?

my iMac has only one screw on bottom to access memory?

Which model iMac do you have?
Clicky Click---> http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1758 How to identify iMac models
Instructions for RAM installation can be found in the manual for your model iMac.
CLICKY CLICK---> Apple - Support - Manuals

HT5163 apple I phone has two screws at bottom how do I insert new sim card

I Phone 4 ...want to change the sim card...phone has two screws at bottom...after removing screws how do I change the sim card?

If the iPhone 4 does not have a SIM card slot which is not ejected by removing screws, this means the iPhone is a Verizon phone.
iphone 4 sim card slot

Small Cracks Around Screw on Bottom ibook

Four small hairline cracks around the screw that's on the bottom center of my ibook. The cracks vary from 1/4" to 1/2". Is this anything to worry about? Does yours have cracks? BTW my 12" g4 ibook is a year old this month.
12" g4 ibook Mac OS X (10.4.8)
12" g4 ibook Mac OS X (10.4.8)

sound like normal wear and tear in respect to the iBook, one of the faults of using the plastic Apple use to make the iBook.

Need info on screws on bottom of Satellite S50D-A

I somehow lost the three screws on the right side of the bottom of my S50D-A. Can anyone tell me how to find replacements? They are the three screws on the side without the charging port.

Paolo is right. The bottom case is fixed with 10 or 11 identical screws and all are the same.
All of them are M2.5x5 screws.
Either try to contact nearest Toshiba service provider and ask if you can buy few of them or try to find some online store where you can order it.
For instance I found this interesting page - www.laptopscrews.com/M2.5x5.htm
Even on Amazon I found option to buy set of screws for laptops.
Google a bit around and Im sure you will find something interesting that can help you.

Missing screws on bottom of my 2010 Macbook?

I took my macbook in over the summer to replace the bottom cover because it had warped. They replaced the bottom, but since then, the screws have been continuously coming loose on the bottom case. I've tried screwing them back in, and it works for a little, but now I've lost two and I'm not sure if Apple will charge me in order to replace the screws, or if I can just buy them and screw them in myself?

I lost a screw once too. I called my local Apple store and they said that they did not have any screws for my MacBook Pro on hand and that they don't sell any screws. They referred my to my local AASP and they replaced the lost screw (which I lost while installing a new SSD) for free. Your best bet is to call the Apple store nearest you and find out why the screws keep coming loose.

Screws on bottom of the 3G iPhone?

During the "Guided Tour" and "New Features", there are 2 screws on either side of the microphone and speaker...I am guessing this is so the user can change their own battery without the "aid" of Apple. Has Apple made a comment on why they decided to include two visible screws on the 3G version and not on the original?
Thanks for any comments

I'm guessing that the mic/speaker holes might make it structurally "weaker" than the grid of tiny holes that are on the previous models. So, you increase the ability for it to pick up and playback audio, but the offset is that you need those additional screws.
Or not.

Crack in plastic around screws on bottom of Y50-70

Around a month ago I noticed that there was a small crack in my y50 on the back of the laptop. Due to the crack the screw fell out of the computer. I've been monitoring it to make sure the situation does not get even worse and it seems like the crack hasn't progressed. However I am still concerned due to the amount of money I have spent on this. I have only had the laptop for around half a year and have never dropped it, so I was very suprised that this occured. I would greatly appreciate any advice on the situation.
4/6/15 EDIT: Edited subject line to improve searchability. Amy_Lenovo

I have also noticed that my Y50 has cracks in the plastic on the back. Mine are a little more severe as I unfortunately didn't catch it before I saw plastic sitting on my desk when I was packing up my laptop to take to work. It's never been dropped and after contacting support and asking if it was covered by warranty and being told no (and that it would cost 100$ for some reason!), I proceeded to use Appoxy to hold the darn thing together and now the other side has cracked all the way through. If there would be some way to purchase a new backplate with all of my info that is Lazer Etched onto the backplate that would be my preferred way to go. I have contacted the US support line and been transferred back and forth from the tech center to the Parts Dept. for over 2 hours with no success. Any help would be appreciated at this time because my only other course of action would be to purchase an unmarked backplate from Ebay and use that until such a time that I have to turn the machine back in for warranty repair. Here has been my most recent experience: Called US support line and called tech support: George
-transferred to a useless number
Lenovo Y50-70
Spencer
[email protected]
-sent 2 pictures of the machine to above address
-99$ not including one day shipping
-8004614173 - case number holding all above info As it sits now:http://i.imgur.com/e54av6k.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/HBX1ZVy.jpg

Cleaning an Apple Wireless Keyboard A1016

Today I picked up an Apple Wireless Keyboard model A1016 at a church rummage sale for $2. Despite having horribly corroded batteries in it, after cleaning the corrosion, it works just fine. However, it is filthy. I can see dirt and grim in the clear sides. How do I take apart this keyboard to clean it?

You can and can't, learned from my recent problem. The letter-keys "a" and "z" on my A1016 wouldn't type. I keep a clean keyboard, occasionally brush all keys horizontally and vertically with a (new, never used but for this purpose) paintbrush. Then use the brush attachment on the vacuum to suck out what it can. Sometimes use the vacuum in exhaust to blow warm air into board. Did this. Didn't help. Then read about popping off the keys, a & z, and was rather surprised to see, yes, dirt and a few hairs. Swabbed the area with Q-tips, got all clean. This is what you can do, pop keys (keep a board handy or keyboard screen capture to know where to put keys back on), just pry off with a flat blade, clean to your heart's content, replace keys. This I did. Still no a & z. After saying **** several times, I set keyboard outside in strong sun. I thought maybe something would expand in heat. (No way could there be moisture inside, I am too neat, but what the ****, it was worth a shot.) After a few hours I got a & z back. Overnight, had some trouble the next morning, set board in sun, typed on it in a better position and all was, has been, well. After "cleaning' my board, in strong sun I noticed a bit of dust in the clear sides and bottom. Well, this will be easy, I'll just undo the three tiny screws holding the lucite caseing. I've every screwdriver imaginable, but not this tiny one! None of mine will fit. Am working on this, for the A1016 is something built, put together, has screws for a reason, so there must be a way to get the board out of the lucite housing. Just undo a few simple screws, clean the caseing. I'm working on getting the proper driver. When fussing I've no a & z to friends it was suggested I get one of those Radio Shack cans of compressed air, use the long red thin tube and blast away. That might "clean" the bottom of your unit a bit. As well, something I am going to do when the chance comes up, at your local Mac store (if you've one), ask them how they take a keyboard apart. I think they've a special screwdriver. Anything built can be taken apart. If you can get the lucite away from the board, that housing can be cleaned.

Recover an iMovie from a failed external drive?

Has anyone been able to get an entire iMovie recovered from a failed external Firewire drive? My LaCie just won't power up despite having its light come on, and having other external drives connected through it to my iMac and working fine.
I was about to do some backing up after finishing some edits on my latest iMovie, located on that drive. The edits were taking a longer time than usual, with spinning beach ball going on and on, so I decided to restart the Mac and see if that would speed things up. A restart resulted in a totally white screen for over 20 minutes, so I powered off with the switch, and powered on again with it a few minutes later. After three tries, including trying to boot from the installation disk, the iMac sprang to life again, and three of my external drives came on as usual, but not the La Cie that has my iPhotoLibraries and the iMovies I am working on. It is not a problem with power cords or the Firewire cables, as I swapped them out with the other drives, and everything works except this drive will not power up. Its light comes on, and the Firewire ports allow the other drive to come on, as this one is the one connected to the iMac, but the drive remains cold and quiet, just sits there with its blue light blinking.
I just need it to power on long enough to transfer my data to another drive.
I will settle for drive-recovery if that means I will get all my movies and photos back......anyone ever had to use a drive recovery service for this? If so, how did it work?
I do have backups for the photos, but not all of them as I don't usually backup every day. The movies will have to be recreated I can do this, it will just take lots of time......
not happy with this situation....any support/sympathy greatly appreciated!

Beverly Maneatis wrote:
.. The drive comes on and its light blinks, but does not progress to the drive powering up and the light becoming a solid nonblinking. ..
sorry to contradict you, Bev, but the drive itself has no lights.. :
(pic by wikipedia)
THIS is your drive with your precious data .. no blinks ...
ok, I'm a typically 'Tim Taylor/Home Improvement'-guy (incl. friends in hospital...), so maybe a daredevil about screwing things up/open (pun-taaaa). if you open the housing (usually 4 screws on bottom), you would see a power-supply, some small board for the interface electronics, a fan, some small board for some other electronics. and two cables: one with 4 cables (=power), one flat cable with ~20something wires (=data).. the drive is fixed with another four screws.. it is really dead easy, and you can not damage the drive itself, except you wear some angora and plastic sandals, to get some zillion of volts of static electricity into your fingertips ...
so, if you find a nice PC-guy, ask him to place the drive into another housing (usb or fw.. doesn't matter...).. for a pro, that is a 5min procedure.. I'm pretty sure, it will work! < fingers crossed > < throwing ash over shoulder > < murmering some Hun's incantaion >

Install New Hard Drive into an HP Envy 17-t-k000 CTO Notebook PC

Envy 17-t-K000 CTO Notebook PC running Windows 8.1
The bottom of my Notebook doesn't have the access port that the J100 Quad Core has.
I wish to install a SSD in drive bay 1 (port 0) and the HD in drive bay 2 (port 1).
I have pulled every screw on bottom of the case, and I can't figure out how to open the case without damage.
What do I do?
Problem Solved!! Found video already on HP Site.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Mike.
I just showed the steps needed to go all the way to upgrade the memory.
First step is to remove the top cover.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c04339451&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en
I have the 15t but found the same step by step instructions and video to replace the hard drive for the 17t.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c04337198&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en
Let me know if you need any advice.
REO
HP Expert Tester "Now testing HP Pavilion 15t i3-4030U Win8.1, 6GB RAM and 750GB HDD"
Loaner Program”HP Split 13 x2 13r010dx i3-4012Y Win8.1, 4GB RAM and 500GB Hybrid HDD”
Microsoft Registered Refurbisher
Registered Microsoft Partner
Apple Certified Macintosh Technician Certification in progress.

G4 MDD power button going bad?

Hi all -
I'm using a g4 MDD dual 1gig machine. Has been working great for the past few months, till just now. When I power down, the computer won't restart, unless I unplug it. (what?) That's right, the computer works fine, I turn it off and the power button will not turn the computer on unless I physically unplug the machine for a split second. After that it powers right up (at least for now). Prior to unplugging, the power switch does nothing, no lights, no chimes, nothing. It's like there is no power going to the compuer at all.
Does this sound like the power button is going bad or maybe something else? A few months ago I had PRAM/ PMU issues - could they be coming back?
Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I took care of my power-up issue tonight by working on my power supply. Here is the posting I made in another thread:
Here is what I did to troubleshoot my power issue. Your power supply can be serviced and this post offers a couple thoughts and some troubleshooting suggestions. Please read it through to the end. This isn't a cure-all for all G4 Macs, but the steps I followed seem to cover a number of bases and might prove helpful to those who are really frustrated.
I've owned a Mac every year all the way back to 1987 and have never had an issue until now and I am convinced my problem may have been triggered by a power surge or brown-out, which we seem to have experienced a lot of around here lately. This post refers to the Samsung power supply with Apple Part Number 614-0224.
I have a G4 Dual 1.25 MDD I purchased in 2003. I have had a brief issue with powering up my CPU. It wouldn't power up last weekend. I unplugged the power cord, then reconnected it to the machine and it powered up. I reasoned the power cord had become loose, but then last night I couldn't get it to come up at all. Not even a click. No lights.
So I tried all the easiest possible solutions: resetting the PRAM (pulling the battery from the logic board) and resetting the PMU (Power Management Unit). The switch, by the way, is located near where the ATA drives plug in to the logic board. Neither of those two things solved my problem. The CPU would still not power up.
I checked the lithium battery voltage with a voltmeter. It was at 3.6v, so it was still good.
I then decided my issue was probably with the power supply. With the power cord disconnected from the back of the CPU, I pulled the black power connection from the logic board and performed a power supply voltage test following the pin schematic found in this thread:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58561
The +5v trickle voltage found at Pin 9 was not present. I had no other voltage readings on any of the other pins. My issue HAD to be with the power supply.
Tonight I removed the power supply by disconnecting all of the optical drives (I have two DVD burners in this unit), all of the hard drives (three) and all of the logic board connections.
I removed all of the screws from the outer casing of the power supply, including the fat screws attaching the two black fans to the unit and the one long screw in the middle and near the edge of where the two fans are. The casing came right off.
There have been a lot of questions as to whether there are fuses in these power supplies. There has to be some protection for them and I have yet to see any power supply that did not have a fuse or resettable circuit breaker. This power supply was no different...it has a 250W, 8A fuse that is easily accessible and is located on the same side as the male power socket, near the edge of the circuit board. It is hiding under a yellow shield and is right next to a plastic connector.
Bingo! My fuse was blown. Many glass fuses will show some sort of blackness and mine did, as well as being able to see the actual glob of metal where the fuse burst.
What caused a fuse to blow will be different for each machine. I believe in my case it suffered from a power surge. There were no visible signs of burns from arcing, popped capacitors, shorts or bad chips. The board was completely clean, which tells me the issue was near the power source. The fuse may also have been on the verge of popping when I unplugged and reconnected the power cord.
Everything's speculation, but replacing the fuse did the trick in my case and I saved myself time and about $150 (on average for a used PS on eBay). I picked up a second fuse to tape to the inside of the CPU, near the power supply, so I will have a backup fuse if I need it in the future. I may also have a drive that is going bad, or I may have too many drives operating off one supply. My Mac's been configured like this for about five years now. I will replace at least two drives with new, larger capacity drives. I keep my video and digital image files on separate drives, but have a third drive I can blow out. That surely will help prolong the life of my power supply.
While I had the computer apart I gave it a good vacuum and a little air can action. Dust can aid overheating and defeat the purpose of good airflow from fans.
Hope this helps.

Will and early 2009 mac pro support a 4tb internal harddrive?

I have an early 2009 2.66 Quad Core Intel Xeon Mac Pro with 8gb of Ram...
Wondering if it'll handle a 3 or 4 tb Seagate Barracuda drive without much hesitating...
Thank you guys!
Brian

Some manufacturers have added platters, but have opted NOT to go taller. They are shortening the allowed screw penetration depth, in effect "taking back" some of the space previously allotted to long screws, especially bottom-mount screws directly adjacent to the platters area. (needed for Mac Pro tower sleds).
Solutions include shortening the existing screws, using new shorter screws, and placing a washer under the head of the screw to effectively shorten it.

Computer won't start -- help:(

Hi, I was working on my ibook g4 and suddenly it quit/went blank without any notice. Battery is charged, it's plugged in, I've tried PRU and PRAM things from support e-mails and still nothing. It won't respond at all. Any other ideas? Can I try booting from another computer or disk? What could be the problem? Thanks!

I did think of the power button. It has been used alot though not really abused. I guess I can look and see if wires have unsoldered though I'm having trouble getting inside. I took off 3 allen screws from bottom but I think there's more, maybe under the rubber feet. Yes, the computer did charge so that may be good that it's not the logic board. However, the computer shutdown (crashed?) suddenly as I was using it and would that be due to the power button? Would humidity have something to do with it (no a/c!). I had a hard drive go in my g4 but it was a slow death, I tapped it with a screwdriver, etc to keep it going for a while. This was a sudden death. If not power button, what else? Thanks, Mark

MacBook Turns off by itself

My MacBook has been shutting off automatically, it also shuts down my safari. This happens when my laptop goes to sleep. It will not shut down if there's 2 or more tabs open on safari because there's a popup that doesn't allow it to shut down. The popup asks if I'm sure that I want to close Safari. I am aware that the only reason that it doesn't shut when Safari has 2 or more tabs is because of the popup. I am unsure why it is automatically shutting though.
Anyway help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You.

I have been having a similar problem. My battery shows that its full capacity is 4336 mAh and under 190 cycles. I have the latest firmware update. After disconnecting the power adapter, my computer has been shutting down without warning and while showing a battery charge above 3800 mAh. I followed the directions to reset the SMC, and now my problem seems to be fixed, but I do not believe this was the true cause of my problem.
When I removed the battery, which was still showing five green lights, I noticed that one of the screws that holds the casing that gives access to the RAM and hard drive bay was loose. (I had to replace my hard drive 1 year and 1 month after I purchased my MacBook because the stupid hard drive just failed on me one day. Needless to say, I'm less than happy with this purchase compared to my old Powerbook G4.) I tightened that screw, and then completed the process to reset the SMC.
I also have read a couple other threads that suggest the problem can be a bad connection between the battery and the computer. I think this was the source of my problem.
So, while the SMC fix is often suggested, I am relatively sure my real problem had to do with the battery not making a good connection with the computer. Try checking this out, especially if the software resets and upgrades and everything don't work, and you believe your battery still is holding a proper charge.
Good luck.

Screws on Bottom of Casing

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for