Separating a long movie for writing to DVD

OK. So I spent many hours and many weekends filming my grandparents' life stories. After this, I used iMovie to piece them together in a chronological way (they weren't always told so) and added various pictures and sound clips. After spending many hours editing them, I was done.
That's when I realized that I had a very long, flowing movie. But it wouldn't let me easily separate them for different DVDs. It would seem like I'd need to make a whole new file, re-insert the image, re-edit it, re-insert the pictures, sounds, etc.
Is there any way to take a very long movie and easily break it up, saving the edits, for multiple DVD writings?
I hope I'm making sense here. It was a couple years ago I realized I had this problem and I have barely used iMovie since.
I'd prefer not to, but I could buy iMovie 2011 if it would solve this problem.
Thanks!

I would recommend that you select your project in the Project Library View. Then FILE/DUPLICATE PROJECT or right-click/Duplicate Project. Do this to make as many separate projects as you need.
For each one, keep one section and delete the rest.

Similar Messages

Long movie to fit on DVD... possible?

I have a long movie (2 hour 50 minute) to encode to DVD. How should I adjust my settings in media export?
Even draft quailty gave me too big of a file.

As mentioned, your results can depend heavily on the content. I have authored DVDs that long before with very acceptable results, but mostly talking head type of footage. Would not attempt with a wedding reception with lots of motion and flashing lights for instance, image would self-destruct! The calculator Harm suggested looks pretty neat, just tried it. Got the same result using an old rule of thumb, which is 560/minutes=bitrate.
Before spending hours encoding the entire program, I would try encoding a short sample using the suggested bitrate, which is about 3.3, using 2-Pass VBR encoding. Burn the sample to disc and check it out and if you are happy with it, then do the whole thing.
Also, I don't always trust the size estimate in the lower corner of AME because I believe that is figuring PCM audio, and not the actual Dolby AC-3 at 192Kbps that Encore will be using, which produces a much smaller size audio file on the disc.
Your are really pushing the limits of the DVD format at 170 minutes, but it is possible it will look ok depending on the material being encoded.
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

Can no longer move or copy files between drives (not a newbie issue!)

Copying and moving files between internal and external devices, and external to external devices is no longer working.
*For the first time in my life, I get a "Circle with a Bar through it" when attempting to move or copy files.*
This doesn't happen between the two internal drives at all (though I'm worried it might start). It happens between two HFS+J devices as well as HFS+J and FAT32 devices. I can delete files, create folders, and in some instances where things are acting funny, copy to, but not from the device. A noticed side effect that is now happening is that I can no longer move drive icons (CDs, DVDs, HDs) to their upper-right hand corner position on the desktop, if they didn't start there. They don't drop there, just staying where they originally sat (under a list of desktop shortcuts and files). It does not matter if the drives are USB or Firewire, and this never happened previous to about a month ago.
I have done all the basic stuff -- verify/repair drives, reboot multiple times, mount & dismount, change connection ports, backed up-reformatted-and restored the smallest drive, fixed preferences (not at all relevant), Disk Warrior repair the devices, set all permissions to R/W, check all device related infos, researched on-line for a week... Nothing. I have even taken the devices to PCs, where they work perfectly, and as expected.
This issue is apparently either a corruption, or a bug induced by Software Update, in the part of the system that handles files and file structures, or possibly the _USB and Firewire_ interfaces.
I just need to know where all those relevant parts are in the system folders, so I can attempt to restore them from a backup previous to the last "Software Update," (to be sure. And to bring this one step closer to being solved).
A system restore really is not an option, as that would require nearly two weeks of re-tweaking everything from the system to every piece of software included (updating the system about 10 times via software update, reinstalling 90% of the actual software packages... and then updating those multiple times, looking-up all the serials that get killed, etc.)
I have to correct this fast, as we need to move the files from the work drives to the archive drives before we run out of room. So any help would be very appreciated... even if you only know where a few of the system components are located (it just might be one of those, causing the issue).
---TIA

{The last link in this post is most relevant, except for your recent finding.}
The reference was to the User permissions, per each; as when these
become corrupted, the simple 'repair disk permissions' and other
basic duties do not find an error with them. That is because there is
nothing really wrong with them from that standpoint.
Another odd error can happen if one is resizing partitions in an Intel
based Mac, and also if one has or had a BootCamp partition and
wanted to reclaim space. But not always. Thankfully, the only time
I tried Windows on a Mac, the media install disc was corrupted so
it just didn't happen. That was Virtual PC and Windows on PPC.
Tiger brought with it the ability to non-destructively resize partitions.
However, it was not thought to be successful in non-Intel based Macs.
The discussion on that matter came up a few years ago, so someone
has undoubtably tried that in a PPC and reported findings online.
When file sharing between user-account created content runs amok,
then the system(s) will not allow the content to be moved or shared.
So, if any shared user-account created content (including drives
initialized or handled without permissions ignored, clones wrong,
etc) are not the problem, then how does one explain these wrong
ful action circles-with-lines, or action disallowed warning symbols?
There must be a simpler answer. Do you have cats which have
access to your computers in the off-hours? They do keyboard.
Some have been thought to have technical skills outside of the
usual coy and cute play-acting people think they are limited to.
I'm sticking to the cats theory for now; the time is 3:21AM here
and I only am up to get a drink and look outside at +5°F. calm.
Mac OS X 10.4 Help: I can't move or copy a file or folder
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.4/en/mh194.html
• _Rearranging Files (and renaming them)_ InformIT: Mac OS X unleashed
http://www.informit.com/library/content.aspx?b=MacOS_XUnleashed&seqNum=122
It is good to have a backup for the backup; plus a backup Mac.
Good luck & happy computing!
{ edited: was distracted }

Best Data Rate for Export to DVD as Quicktime Movie

Hello - hope someone out there can help me!!!
I put together a slideshow for my high school reunion using iMovie HD 5.0.2 and need help with settings exporting it as a Quicktime movie.
*I want to export it to a DVD* so that I can play it on a friend's laptop and I'm not sure if iDVD would be the way to go - my friend has a Macbook Pro I can borrow so it might be okay - I am worried about the fact that I've been working on older software. (I have read about opening iDVD and bringing in iMovie project vs. "share to iDVD"). So they suggested instead of iDVD I just export as a quicktime. Then I can burn it in Toast (v.6.0.2)
Wondering about *BEST DATA RATE?*
In export settings I have:
compressor set at H.264
frame rate: current (should that be DV-NTSC?)
key frames: automatic (?)
encoding: best quality/multi-pass
should data rate be automatic?
Some details that might be relevant to helping me:
*Stills brought in as clips with cross-dissolves, only two uses of "Ken Burns effect"
*Some stills were in the project from my LAST reunion - I realize I should have reimported all the stills since I am now recompressing them, but it's too late now!
*no audio
*Slideshow is about 45 mins long, file size says 5.52GB although when I looked into exporting it last night it said 9+GB - not sure why
*Using a G4 Tower (not my ancient laptop) with OS 10.4.11, Dual 533MHz PowerPC, 1.5GB SDRAM
iDVD version is 6.0.4
please help if you can!! thank you in advance...

Are you trying to burn a standard DVD or are you trying to put a QuickTime .mov file on DVD media?
A standard DVD doesn't worry about file size (only the duration).
A "data" DVD is limited to the type of media used. A single layer DVD is about 3.7 GB's.
In order to make a data DVD you need to keep the data rate low enough to not exceed the DVD media playback abilities. They can't handle the higher rates found in many of the preset options.
You can avoid all of these headaches by telling the viewer to "copy" the .mov file from the DVD to their Desktop. Then nearly any of the presets option will work.
H.264 is a great video codec and the "automatic" preset should work just fine. Use "multi-pass" for best quality (takes a very long time). Remove the check mark for "Audio" since your file has none. Leave it checked and you waste file size because a silent audio track would be added.

Dividing a long movie into a 2 part dvd

Learning DVD Studio Pro I am having trouble figuring out how to divide a long movie into a 2 disc dvd. The movie is 1 hour and 40 minutes. Is it as simple as dividing the movie into 2 separate DVD Studio Pro projects, each with its own separate menus and menu buttons for chapter markers?
I want to avoid the dual layer disc method, as it causes too many problems for burning.
Thanks.

On a standard DVD 5 disc (single layer), you actually only have about 4.3gb of space to work with even though they're sold as 4.7gb discs.
The size of the encoded .m2v file is dependent on two factors; the length of the program and the bit rate used during the encoding process. The lower the bit rate, the smaller the file. Of course, lower bit rates sacrifice quality. But if your program has little motion (a seminar or talking head type of program for example), you can use a relatively small bit rate without losing much quality since there is little change from frame to frame. Conversely, a program with a lot of movement will require a relatively high bit rate to maintain good quality since so much information changes from frame to frame.
Normally I use Compressor to handle the encoding so I have full control over the various parameters of both the video and audio encoding ... I don't really trust DVD-SP to get it right.
-DH

I need to know the best, safest way to convert video for Mac. I just had home movies converted to a DVD format a realize now that I need another step to burn them to my computer.

I just had home movies converted to a DVD format a realize now that I need another step to burn them to my computer. This is for a Christmas present! Help.

I don't think you need to use a ripper program to read a home movie DVD. Those are primarily for copy-protected commercial DVDs, right?
I think you just need to transcode the DVD files using a utility like Handbrake, which is free and fast.
http://handbrake.fr/details.php

Move iMovie event to DVD before editing for storage

Hello,
I need to move a few iMovie events to DVD before editing to free up some space on my MBP. I'm making room for a live AV recording and have no idea how much space I will need. Will moving the event cause any problems? How is an event burned to DVD? I saw no options to do this (or move it to another HD) in any way.
ThankU,
DarrellSY

I am very sorry. I misread your original post.
You could maybe save it as a Data DVD, if your event is smaller than 4GB (or 8GB if you do a double layer DVD).
In Toast, create a Data DVD and drag these files in.
In iDVD, you can look up the instructions for creating a DVD ROM. Normally, you would burn your movie so you could view it on a regular DVD, then add the files you used to make it to the DVD ROM part.
Finally, you can create a burn folder on your Desktop, and burn to a DVD from there. That is probably the simplest way. it has been a while since I have done it, so maybe someone else can give you the step by step.

TS1846 I have edited a movie in Final Cut Pro and the video has been smoot all the time. Now, when the one hour long movie is ready the video seem to paus every 5 sec (only for half a second). It does it all the way through the movies. What is wrong? Sudd

I have edited a movie in Final Cut Pro and the video has been smooth all the time.
Now, when the one hour long movie is ready the video seem to paus every 5 sec (only for half a second). It does it all the way through the movies.
What is wrong? All the sudden.

We need info, info, info!
What version of FCP X?
Did you render? what are the project specs? do you use many compound clips? how much ram, hard drive space, how is the hard drive connected?
It looks like your mac can't keep up. Maybe the bottleneck is the hard drive, or something else.
Try exporting a master file and see if the video is ok.
Also, keep Activity Monitor open and see how much memory pressure you've got.

Why can't I burn a movie to me external dvd drive?

I can share movies digitally to itunes, youtube, cnnreport, and vimeo. But can't burn to my external drive. What am I doing wrong, or is the macbook pro just that way?

Not if you have iDVD. You haven't said yet whether you do or not. If you do, here's how you can create a DVD from the new iMovie 10:
In iMovie 10 go to File>Share>File, choose the size (probably should choose either SD or Large) then click Next, give it a name, then click Save (remember where you saved it to).
Wait until the Activity Indicator shows that the sharing process is complete.
Go to iDVD. Go to File>Import>Video and select the file you created earlier. It will bring the video into your iDVD project. Prepare you DVD project and when you're ready, click the "Burn" button.
iDVD is no longer officially supported by Apple, but that doesn't mean you can't still use it. It's still a great option...possibly the best...for burning video DVDs on a Mac.

TS4223 I accidentally bought the HD version of a movie for my daughter's iPod nano (it can't be watched on the Nano). So I'm trying to figure out how to re-download the SD version. do I have to pay for the lower version??

I accidentally bought the HD version of a movie for my daughter's nano. you can't watch HD on a nano. So I'm trying to figure out how to re-download the SD version. This help screen makes it seem like you can just correct the problem and just "download" the lower version. But when I follow the steps, I basically get to where I'm just having to actually purchase the other version. Do I have to pay to get the lower quality version after I've already paid for the HD version?

When you purchase an HD movie or show, in most cases the SD copy can be downloaded from your purchases area in iTunes. On the main iTunes Store page, go to Purchases under the Quick Links and then select Movies or TV shows as appropraite. Click the "Not On This Computer" button. Uncheck the "Download HD when available" box and you should then see the SD copies of the movies/shows and be able to download them.
Note that with digital copies from a Blu-Ray or DVD, if it comes with an HD copy, you normally cannot get the SD copy as well and have to purchase it separately if you want it.
Regards.

Help - i recently made put together a high quality movie for a relative, it has taken me months to complete and it goes for a total of 9 hours and 43 minutes ,however, it won't let me export the video at all! please help - its taken ages to make it!

Help - i recently made put together a high quality movie for a relative, it has taken me months to complete and it goes for a total of 9 hours and 43 minutes ,however, it won't let me export the video at all! please help - its taken ages to make it!

9 hours??!
Twice the length of a cinema epic?
How are you expecting to distribute it?
iDVD encoding settings:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=iDVD/7.0/en/11417.html
Short version:
Best Performance is for videos of up to 60 minutes
Best Quality is for videos of up to 120 minutes
Professional Quality is also for up to 120 minutes but even higher quality (and takes much longer)
That was for single-layer DVDs. Double these numbers for dual-layer DVDs.
Professional Quality: The Professional Quality option uses advanced technology to encode your video, resulting in the best quality of video possible on your burned DVD. You can select this option regardless of your project’s duration (up to 2 hours of video for a single-layer disc and 4 hours for a double-layer disc). Because Professional Quality encoding is time-consuming (requiring about twice as much time to encode a project as the High Quality option, for example) choose it only if you are not concerned abo
In both cases the maximum length includes titles, transitions and effects etc. Allow about 15 minutes for these.
You can use the amount of video in your project as a rough determination of which method to choose. If your project has an hour or less of video (for a single-layer disc), choose Best Performance. If it has between 1 and 2 hours of video (for a single-layer disc), choose High Quality. If you want the best possible encoding quality for projects that are up to 2 hours (for a single-layer disc), choose Professional Quality. This option takes about twice as long as the High Quality option, so select it only if time is not an issue for you.
Use the Capacity meter in the Project Info window (choose Project > Project Info) to determine how many minutes of video your project contains.
NOTE: With the Best Performance setting, you can turn background encoding off by choosing Advanced > “Encode in Background.” The checkmark is removed to show it’s no longer selected. Turning off background encoding can help performance if your system seems sluggish.
And whilst checking these settings in iDVD Preferences, make sure that the settings for NTSC/PAL and DV/DV Widescreen are also what you want.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1502?viewlocale=en_US

Importing long movies from iPhone 4S

I am trying to import long movies from the iPhone to iMovie. I am able to use image capture to transfer the movie from the iPhone, but then I can't import it into iMovie. I set iMovie to import the file, and it says that it is doing so and that it is generating thumbnails, but then when it finishes nothing shows up in iMovie. I have made sure that I have ample room in my hard drive, which I was told at the Genius Bar could be affecting iMovie's ability to work with the movie, so that's not the problem. Ultimately, I'm looking to be able to transfer the movie to iDVD so I can burn a DVD.
I've tried importing directly into iMovie and iPhoto. I get the same non-result in iMovie and an error message in iPhoto.
I'm using iMovie '11 version 9.0.4 (1634), on Mac OS X, Version 10.7.3 on a MacBook Air. The movie is about 65 minutes long.
Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what was the solution? I admit to being very surprised at the difficulty of doing an Apple-Apple transfer. Thanks.

What might be happening is you might need to Optimize the Video to Full Size. Use the File Menu > Optimize > Full Size for each of the video clips in your iPhoto Videos folder inside of the iMovie Events Library. That should trigger iMovie to recognize the original size/resolution of the video clips and then enable the HD size output in the iMovie Share Menu.

Burn long movie with IDVD

On IDVD I am trying to Burn a long movie. I get a message saying duration too long for disc. How do I burn this to two disc or Reduce the intro of IDVD. The movie is almost 4 hours long. I can put it on one disc that plays on my computer,but I want one to play in my DVD player

A single-layer DVD has a limit of 2 hours, a dual-layer DVD 4 hours.
Roxio Toast can burn your 4 hours to a single-layer DVD using its 'burn to fit' setting but you will see a quality loss.
Toast can also stretch a video over two DVDs.

The iPod could not be synced because this computer is no longer authorized for purchased items that are on this iPod.

Full message that pops up
"The iPod could not be synced because this computer is no longer authorized for purchased items that are on this iPod.
To authorize this computer for items purchased from iTunes Store, choose Store > Authorize This Computer."
I am unable to sync my music, applications, movies, etc. to my iPod touch. The only way I am able to bypass the message that pops out when I try to sync (the one in the title) is by clicking "Apply" instead of "Sync". To do this, I make changes to Apps, Music, or Movies (...) and the buttons "Revert" and "Apply" will replace the button "Sync".
My problem is most likely not due to using many accounts because I only have one and it is the only one that I use. I do not share accounts with my family members. Still, I have tried everything here, nothing has worked for me. Since I don't often listen to Podcasts, I have deleted them from my iPod. I have no idea why I am unable to sync and no one seems to have the same problem as me.
Thank you for your help in advance.
Details
iPod touch, 5th generation
iOS 8.1.2
iTunes 12.0.1.26
Windows 8
Purchases
Pre-ordered album "Froot" purchased from the account that is authorized to my computer
Podcast "Not Too Deep with Grace Helbig" also purchased from the account that is authorized to my computer

Try backing up to iTunes and restoring from that backup

Exchange 2013 - can no longer move mailboxes from Exchange 2010 to Ex 2013.

Migrating to Exchange 2013 from Exchange 2010. Created Ex 2013, moved some mailboxes OK. Then could no longer move mailboxes. No errors. The Migration email says complete. Synced: none, Total Mailboxes: none.
Tried several mailboxes. Same result.
Ex 2010 is SP3 RU6, (at least it says RU6 is installed in Programs/Features. The build is for SP3 w/o RU6???)
Ex 2013 is SP1 aka CU4.
How to proceed???
john11

After many attempts to fix the issue (move remaining 4 mailboxes from Exchange 2010 to Exchange 2013) I contacted Microsoft and we resolved the issue. Here's how.
btw - Thanks for the suggestions from Ed. However, they did not seem to move us forward.
What did work:
1. On the Exchange 2010 box, create a new database. (Someone else suggested this also). Then move the remaining Exchange 2010 mailboxes to this new db. Then after that, move the 4 mailboxes to Exchange 2013 using the GUI on Ex 2013. This only worked for one
of the four mailboxes. The other 3 failed.
2. Apparently, we need to restart the Microsoft Exchange Mailbox Replication service on the Exchange 2013 after several failed move attempts to clear cache related to the moves.
3. Then on the Exchange 2013 box, use this Exchange shell command:
New-MoveRequest -identity "[email protected]" -TargetDatabase "Exchange 2013 DB name" -BadItemLimit '500' -verbose
This moved the remaining 3 mailboxes including the Discovery mailbox. It took some time. But we could check the progress using
Get-MoveRequest
The MS Tech was terrific. Really knew his stuff. And all mailboxes are on Exchange 2013. Well, the last one is still moving, but I am optimistic.
Thanks for the suggestions. I had to get this done and the MS Tech made that happen.
john11

Separating a long movie for writing to DVD

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