SGE2010 and SRW2008: Noise level and power consumption?

Hello!
I am looking for information on the actual noise level and power consuption produced by the forementioned models.
Many thanks in advance,
Luca

Luca,
Power consumption and other key hardware product attributes can be found in the following document (in the documents section of this community):
https://www.myciscocommunity.com/docs/DOC-8669
WRT noise levels, here they are:
SGE2010 - 51.4 dB
SRW2008 - N/A - there is no fan inside this switch - uses and external power supply
Thanks,
Ivor

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Noise level and lost connection

Two or three times aweek I loose connection,hub lights all indicate no problem but on checking find noise level reading on hub of several million db.Unplug hub wait a few minutes and power up again normally solves the problem level back to normal 3-4db.Last week it didn't and after an hour on the phone to BT told there was a problem on the line,got connection back next day and no problems until today when I've had same problem high noise level but has reset OK.
Since BT "solved the connection problem" when running BT speedtest says there are additional services running on my connection.I do not have BT vision,so any ideas hat this is?Could this be causing a problem?
Thank you
Solved!
Go to Solution.

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Result from speedtest .net from 12/4 with new bt hub
Time and date,download uploadping location server and distance to server

Re: noise level and lost connection

I am with Sky Broadband on a BT leased line (who I pay for my BT Telephone bill).
I have had terrible problems with my ADSL connection ever since I subscribed for Sky broadband over 5 years ago and more.
I live in Halton Village in Runcorn, Cheshire and because I live in the village this means I'm miles away from the telephone exchange which is in the main town of Runcorn.. According to an BT Outreach Engineer I'm approximately 2-3 miles from the exchange which affects my broadband signal and the quality of broadband speed my ADSL connection can provide to a BT Master socket and finally a Netgear DG834PN router. I only a single BT Master Socket in the house for my phone line and ADSL Broadband. So there is no other phone sockets or extensions in the home.
I've experienced dropouts for years. Phoned Sky Broadband Support countless times over the years to get them to test the phone line and quality of Broadband signal.
When experiencing continuous drop outs on my Sky Broadband the main Sky Rambo computer (which monitors the broadband bandwidth connection for signal strength and speed and drop outs, if your broadband connection experiences continual drop outs the Rambo computer re-adjusts and lowers your broadband speed accordingly until this stabilizes the phone line and stabilizes the drop outs. In other words, dropping the Broadband speed from 3MB or 4MB my line can handle to 2.6MB or sometimes even lower will temporarily stop the broadband sync drop outs.
This is to say, even though the BT phone line has no errors or faults simply reducing the broadband bandwidth to 50 Per Cent is a generic method of dealing with unknown factors which could indeed be affecting the Broadband drop outs.
If there is no faults on the phone line causing drop outs, no issues with your router then I would suggest you check the mains "electrical earthing" in your home because any electrical interference, spikes or surges could be affecting your broadband and causing it to intermittently drop out.
I purchased an anti-surge and anti-spike surge protected 3 meter, 4-way (13 amp socket) power extension lead and ensured this was used for my Neatgear router to prevent power spikes and or power surges from causing my router to drop out.
I also purchased an anti-surge and anti-spike 3 socket mains adapter which my 3 meter, 4-way (13 amp sockets) power extension lead plugged into ensuring that the mains socket providing power to my router was fully protected from power surges and spikes.
I also discovered the metal back box for the double mains socket providing 240v mains to my router was not earthed to the back box (original electrician who fitted the back box and double 13 amp 3-pin socket had not earthed the back box) and this was causing a build-up of electrical static on those 2 13 amp sockets and preventing and electrical surge or spike to cause the Netgear DG834PN router to drop out.
Moreover, I have to laptops in the kitchen where my Netgear DG834PN router is situated and when either or both of the laptops were switched on or pluged into the PSU (Power Supply Unit) this caused an electrical spike and consequently resulted in the Netgear DG834PN router from losing electrical power, losing Broadband sync and consequently dropping out.
I also use 4 x TP-Link mains to Ethernet broadband devices around the house, one in the kitchen to feed another T-Link mains to Ethernet broadband connection for my Sky TV distributed through an Netgear GS104 Ethernet Switcher, 1 connection for my Sky HD box, one for my Sony Blu-Ray (for updating firmware and BD ROM data from the internet) and a 3rd Ethernet connection for a laptop of Ethernet networked hardrive containing *.MOV or other video files which I stream via HDMI to my Sony 40 Inch flatscreen HD LCD TV..
I have another TP-Link mains to Ethernet broadband device upstairs in a bedroom studio connected to a Netgear GS108 Ethernet switcher which provides broadband for 7 devices, 1 Windows XP based tower PC, an Apple Mac G5 system and an Apple MacBook Pro and a Ethernet network based harddrive which all the computers on the network can access..
If anything on the electrical mains Ethernet network experiences an electrical surge or electrical spike this will be transported down the TP-Link mains to Ethernet broadband devices (as a complete network circuit) back to the Netgear DG834PN router and cause it to switch off (power down) for a second or two (lose its electrical power "on" status) the Netgear DG834PN router which consequently loses its Broadband sync. It then resets upon powering up only for the static to build up in the mains electrical circuit in the home/house. This static causes electrical spikes and surges and finds its way to the mains electrical socket or mains extension lead which you have your router power supply unit plugged into causing the router to effectively crash/lose its power "on" status then it resets again and powers up to an "on" status thereby attempting to find the broadband sync. This becomes a loop and the drop out problem becomes a continual issue/problem and won't go away until you check your mains earth wiring for any earth faults, particularly in the mains socket providing 240v mains to the Netgear router power supply.
This is why I added anti-surge and anti-spike protection directly from the mains sockets providing mains power in the kitchen in the circuit to my Netgear DG834PN router to prevent any build up electrical static causing any electrical spikes and surges from the mains causing the Netgear DG834PN router to power off and thereby causing the broadband sync to drop out.
Basically, the Netgear DG834PN router power supply switches off during an electrical surge or spike to protect the Netgear DG834PN router otherwise the surge or spike will fry the router (pretty logical when you think about it).
So, in order to ensure other electrical circuits in the house do not also cause a build-up of static or send any electrical surges or spikes down my TP-Link mains to Ethernet broadband plugs I also was required to ensure I inserted an electrical mains anti-surge and anti-spike protector adapter or multiple mains extension lead into the circuit thereby eliminating any build-up of mains electrical static, any electrical mains surges or spikes so those do not get transmitted down the mains circuit compounding the issue.. In other words all the mains sockets connected to the broadband circuit in the house are protected with anti-surge and spike adapters and multiple socket mains leads to prevent the Netgear DG834PN router Power Supply from switching off, the Netgear DG834PN router from dropping out, ensuring the Netgear DG834PN router remains powered up, even when a mains electrical surge or spike occurs, so the electrical mains are anti-surge and anti-spike protected and the Netgear DG834PN router remains in the powered "on" state thereby retaining its Broadband sync and does not drop out.
You will discover you no longer experience Broadband Drop Outs!
Solution, check your electrical mains Earthing in your house and all sockets, particularly the mains socket or sockets providing a 240v electrical mains to your Netgear router Power Supply and ensure all electrical sockets which are connected to any Ethernet broadband circuit in the house is surge and spike protected to stop the Broadband router from dropping out!
If you find you are still experiencing Earthing problems with your electrical mains in your property then engage a qualified electrician to check your electrical circuits in your house and indeed your electrical mains earth. You may even require a new “Earth Rod” ramming into the ground outside your property. Since the advent of plastic water pipes this has compromised a lot of electrical mains earthing when entering house properties and could be an additional issue adding to the issues you are already experiencing..
Like I say, if you are not a technical competent person seek advice and help from a qualified person and or even better from a qualified Electrician..

Some very good advice in your post.
Another very common source of noise in any line is caused by water ingress to the conductors. I was a telephone lineman for 12 years of my 23 years service in the telco industry and I lost count of the intermittent telephone faults that only showed up when it rained!

How should I set the parameters of PID Autotuning such as relay amplitude and PV noise level?

I want to control the temperature of a room by changing the hot water flow of a radiator with a control valve. The desirable control accuracy is +/- 0.5 degree of centigrade.
What number should I set for relay amplitude? And what number should I set for PV noise level?

Hello loghmani,
If your output is saturating try to reduce your relay amplitude and/or reduce the gain Kc of the PID controller before starting the autotuning procedure. You can find more information about each of the parameters that you've inquired about at this KnowledgeBase article.
I would recommend taking a look at the General Auto PID Simulator.vi example. You can find this example by doing a search in the example finder or by clicking linked example at the bottom of the detailed help page of the Autotuning PID.vi.
If you haven't looked at the PID user manual that also contains useful information on setting up PID algorithims and Autotuning.
David A
National Instruments
FlexRIO Product Support Engineer

Noise level and battery specifications?

Hi,
On the Lenovo website there are specifications on noise and batterylife. For example "36db" and "6 hours". But are we talking maximum, minimum or something in between?

Hi,
On the Lenovo website there are specifications on noise and batterylife. For example "36db" and "6 hours". But are we talking maximum, minimum or something in between?

Question about Noise Margin and Line Attenuation a...

1.       For several years I have had a BT telephone line. From the utilities provided by http://www.kitz.co.uk/adsl I find that I am connected to the Exchange at Merton Park (BT Code: LSMEPK) Distance:-   Direct:   960 metres (appx)* By Road: 1.29 km. Exchange Status ADSL enabled: March 30, 2000 DSL Max enabled:   March 30, 2006 SDSL enabled : Enabled 21CN due : (PSTN) N/A 21CN WBC (Broadband)   Enabled 15.02.09
2.       I previously had broadband from UKOnline and used a Speedtouch 570 adsl modem. I was paying £9.99 for a speed of 1MBit/s – in practice 700K – which was fine for most purposes but BBC iplayer did struggle a bit. UkOnline has been taken over by SKY so I switched to BT Total Broadband Option 3 in mid December, and initially used the Speedtouch 570 as there were delivery delays on BT Home Hub 2.0 due to weather conditions. Speed was initially very good but did not measure it.
3.       After Xmas I set up the BT Home Hub and ran a speed test - the profile was 2.5MBit/s. I was disappointed to get less than 3Mbit/s which is needed for BBC iplayer HD.
ADSL line status
Connection information
Line state Connected
Connection time 0 days, 2:26:57 ------> 6th January 2011
Downstream 2,268 Kbps
Upstream 440 Kbps
ADSL settings
VPI/VCI 0/38
Type PPPoA
Modulation ITU-T G.992.5 ---à this apparently means ADSL2+
Latency type Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up) 15.7 dB / 31.9 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up) 27.0 dB / 9.7 dB
Output power (Down/Up) 0.0 dBm / 12.7 dBm
Loss of Framing (Local) 22
Loss of Signal (Local) 3
Loss of Power (Local) 0
FEC Errors (Down/Up) 6512 / 0
CRC Errors (Down/Up) 0 / 2147480000
HEC Errors (Down/Up) nil / 0
Error Seconds (Local) 2
4.       As part of the “slow speed wizard” I looked into getting the accelerator plate for my NTE5 split face master socket available for postage only (£1.20) but the web form advised me that if I proceeded with this order the broadband contract would automatically be extended by 12 months. I checked my BT internet account and was surprised to find an email (23rd Dec 2010) advising me that as an Option *1* customer I was in danger of exceeding my usage allowance – which surprised me as I am definitely Option 3. I wondered if I had had the speed throttled. Therefore phoned BT accounts who said the email was a mistake - I am Option 3, also said that accelerator plate was unlikely to make a difference.
5.       I contacted the BT call centre who talked me through various options. Plugging the hub direct into the master socket made no difference. They also ran a line test and said the line was fine.
6.       I therefore browsed the community care forum and find that disappointing speeds are not uncommon. One of the threads mentioned disconnecting the bell wire on the extensions. I follow this advice and removed line 3 on all extensions and then checked the ADSL status on the hub.
ADSL line status
Connection information
Line state Connected
Connection time 0 days, 6:33:45 10th January 2011
Downstream 2,272 Kbps
Upstream 888 Kbps
ADSL settings
VPI/VCI 0/38
Type PPPoA
Modulation ITU-T G.992.5
Latency type Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up) 31.8 dB / 14.4 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up) 27.0 dB / 9.7 dB
Output power (Down/Up) 0.0 dBm / 12.3 dBm
Loss of Framing (Local) 0
Loss of Signal (Local) 0
Loss of Power (Local) 0
FEC Errors (Down/Up) 0 / 0
CRC Errors (Down/Up) 0 / 2147480000
HEC Errors (Down/Up) nil / 0
Error Seconds (Local) 0
7.       This had a dramatic improvement on Upstream speed – and a big change to the noise margin Noise margin which had been (Down/Up) 15.7 dB / 31.9 dB and is now Noise margin (Down/Up) 31.8 dB / 14.4 dB. It did not improve the download speed.
8.       In the following days the BT hub has not been particularly stable with some intermittent loss of wireless connectivity every few hours. Examining the event log I was a bit disconcerted to see alterations to firewall settings had happened (which I hadn’t made) and resets which I am pretty certain I hadn’t made – and a userid login with a name like TR69. Perhaps these are occasioned by the BT speedtester? To be fair I had reset and powered off the hub a number of times in attempt to sort out this problems.
9.       I have switched to a Netgear DG83GT (V1.03.23) for the time being until I have what I can regard as a reasonably fast stabile connection. At the time of writing this has been stable for 20 hours DownStream Connection Speed 2268 kbps UpStream Connection Speed 888 kbps.As stated earlier I would like downstream to be faster.
The perceived wisdom on the forum seems to be that several days of complete stability are required if there is to be any improvement on speed.
10.   If a moderator or anyone with the relevant experience reads this I would be very grateful for answers to the follow questions:
A.      Is the change in the Noise Margin parameter a good thing or a bad thing?
B.      Are the line attenuation figures acceptable for a distance of under 1.5kilometres to the exchange?
C.      Should I be able in theory to get a faster speed i.e. downstream 3Mbit/s?
D.      From the forum it seems to take several days for speed adjustments to be effected or to take effect – is this a technical issue or a policy issue?
Many thanks.
Robert
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Good Morning - it is now 6 days since this posting. During this time there have been 2 resets of the adsl line
Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:43 - LCP down.
Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - Initialize LCP.
Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - LCP is allowed to come up.
Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - CHAP authentication success
and
Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:26 - LCP down.
Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - Initialize LCP.
Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - LCP is allowed to come up.
Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - CHAP authentication success
These were not initiated by me - and since noise margins and sync speeds changed as a consequence can I assume that this is evidence of the adaptive process working?
Secondly, as you can see, the noise ratio has vastly improved as have the upstream and downstream sync speeds
        System Up Time 157:54:52
      ADSL Link          Downstream          Upstream
      Connection Speed           11199 kbps           1091 kbps
      Line Attenuation           27.0 db           9.9 db
      Noise Margin           14.8 db           9.2 db
BUT from the BT speedtester, as shown below I seem to be stuck in a banded IP profile of 1750/1091 which is very different from the downstream sync speeds of 11199 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM)
Can BT staff take action to alter this? If they can how do I contact them?
Regards,
Robert
18th Jan 2010
Download Speed    1288 Kbps
0 Kbps   2000 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 1288 Kbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speedsis 800-2000 Kbps.
Additional Information:
Your DSL Connection Rate :11199 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 1091 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
IP Profile for your line is - 1750 Kbps
The throughput of Best Efforts (BE) classes achieved during the test is - 2.28:10.77:87.0 (SBE:NBEBE)
These figures represent the ratio while sententiously passing Sub BE, Normal BE and Priority BE marked traffic.
The results of this test will vary depending on the way your ISP has decided to use these traffic classes.
2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
Upload Speed       896 Kbps
0 Kbps   1091 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
>Upload speed achieved during the test was - 896 Kbps
Additional Information:
Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 1091 Kbps

Cracking and popping noise Sound Blaster x-Fi Platinum Running on Windows 7 32 Bit

Hi everyone, I am using a x-fi platinum card and it simply wont work with Windows 7 Ultimate 32 Bit. I have been using both windows 7 public beta and release candidate for last 8 months. Let me give you my PC configuration.
Intel Pentium D 3.4GHz
2GB DDR2 Memory running in Dual Channel Mode
ATI Radeon HD 4670 Video Card With 52MB DDR3
It has a built in sound on mother board (Disabled at the moment)
With the above configuration I tried using my x-fi platinum on both Windows XP and Windows Vista, and it worked perfectly without any problem. When I upgraded to windows 7 beta for the first time with the creative beta driver for windows 7, I noticed that whenever there is any on screen activity, such as minimizing and maximizing windows, switching windows, scrolling, photo or webpage transition, etc. there are cracking and popping noises. And if there are continuous or too much activity on the screen at some times the sound card completely fails and unable to provide any sound. When I took the sound card out and enabled the on board audio chip (Realtek HD Audio), the sound was fine without any cracking or popping issue. I eventually upgraded to Windows 7 RC and also currently using the latest driver for windows 7 and I am still having the same problem. As a reasult I am being forced to use the on board realtek audio solution which provides really crappy sound compared to x-fi platinum.
It appears that the problem exists only when I try to run x-fi platinum on windows 7. I really hope there is a solution for this otherwise I will have to sell my beloved sound card which I have been using for at least 3 years on ebay and stick with low quality Realtek HD sound system.

Sille wrote:
seems X-FI cards got the problem.... shud be hotfixed by creative.
Not all of them, I have none of those problems with my Xtreme Music. This won't help the guy asking about the Xtreme Audio (search the Sound Blaster section for the one for your card), but using this,
http://forums.creative.com/t5/Sound-Blaster/SB-X-Fi-Series-Support-Pack-2-0-05-5-2009/td-p/527485
with this installed over the top,
http://forums.creative.com/t5/Sound-Blaster/SB-X-Fi-Series-Auzen-Forte-driver-2-20-000-HomeTheater-HD-RC4/td-p/53548
I don't get any of the popping and cracking that others do.

High power consumption after update

I recently updated all my packages (it had been a few weeks since I had done this last) and I've noticed my power consumption has jumped dramatically. Before I would average around 13.0W and now the baseline seems to be about 18.5W. I use laptop-mode-tools.
I'm happy to post the output of any command but didn't want to spam as I'm not sure what would be valuable.
I have looked at powertop, but without being able to compare to the past I'm not sure how to diagnose this. Any suggestions or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Thinkpad T410: Linux alpha 3.11.2-1-ARCH #1 SMP PREEMPT Fri Sep 27 07:35:36 CEST 2013 x86_64 GNU/Linux

It's possible I suppose that it is related to audio codec power management. After I upgraded I had to add myself to the audio group to get sound working again. I also noticed snd_hda_intel is always pretty high up in powertop.
Finally, I use laptop-mode-tools, and it appears audio codec power mgmt isn't working by default. I can manually select it to turn it on. I also saw this output in journalctl:
Sep 29 11:57:17 alpha slim[1048]: [001:307] F->C: ["getdevicestate","15","0",["__default_device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Default Audio Device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Default Audio Device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Front speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 4.0 Surround output to Front and Rear speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 4.1 Surround output to Front, Rear and Subwoofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 5.0 Surround output to Front, Center and Rear speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 5.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Rear and Subwoofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 7.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Side, Rear and Woofer speakers"],"0",["__default_device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Default Audio Device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Default Audio Device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Front speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 4.0 Surround output to Front and Rear speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 4.1 Surround output to Front, Rear and Subwoofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 5.0 Surround output to Front, Center and Rear speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 5.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Rear and Subwoofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 7.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Side, Rear and Woofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, HDMI 0 - HDMI Audio Output","HDA Intel MID, HDMI 1 - HDMI Audio Output","HDA Intel MID, HDMI 2 - HDMI Audio Output"],"-1",[]]
Sep 29 11:57:17 alpha slim[1048]: [001:307] F->C: ["getdevicestate","15","0",["__default_device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Default Audio Device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Default Audio Device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Front speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 4.0 Surround output to Front and Rear speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 4.1 Surround output to Front, Rear and Subwoofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 5.0 Surround output to Front, Center and Rear speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 5.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Rear and Subwoofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 7.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Side, Rear and Woofer speakers"],"0",["__default_device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Default Audio Device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Default Audio Device","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - Front speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 4.0 Surround output to Front and Rear speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 4.1 Surround output to Front, Rear and Subwoofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 5.0 Surround output to Front, Center and Rear speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 5.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Rear and Subwoofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, CX20585 Analog - 7.1 Surround output to Front, Center, Side, Rear and Woofer speakers","HDA Intel MID, HDMI 0 - HDMI Audio Output","HDA Intel MID, HDMI 1 - HDMI Audio Output","HDA Intel MID, HDMI 2 - HDMI Audio Output"],"-1",[]]
Sep 29 11:57:17 alpha slim[1048]: [001:248] F->C: ["mf","mf4.6","4.6.3.0",2,{"audioCodecs":[[103,"ISAC",1,0,16000],[104,"ISAC",1,0,32000],[9,"G722",1,64000,16000],[102,"ILBC",1,13300,8000],[0,"PCMU",1,64000,8000],[8,"PCMA",1,64000,8000],[107,"CN",1,0,48000],[106,"CN",1,0,32000],[105,"CN",1,0,16000],[13,"CN",1,0,8000],[127,"red",1,0,8000],[126,"telephone-event",1,0,8000]],"audioRtpHdrExts":[{"id":1,"uri":"urn:ietf:params:rtp-hdrext:ssrc-audio-level"}],"camDeviceName":"Unknown Camera","caps":7,"cpuAdaptVersion":1,"cpuArchitecture":1,"cpuCacheSize":3145728,"cpuFamily":6,"cpuFlags":["sse2","ssse3","sse4_1","sse4_2"],"cpuHasSSE2":true,"cpuModel":37,"cpuSpeed":2667,"cpuStepping":5,"cpuVendor":"GenuineIntel","cpus":4,"cpusPhysical":2,"cryptoRandom":"Wh5rpjH5WwxrggyWxtWgghIM","cryptoSuites":["AES_CM_128_HMAC_SHA1_80","AES_CM_128_HMAC_SHA1_32"],"dataChannelVersion":1,"effectsVersion":10,"gpuDescription":"","gpuDeviceId":0,"gpuDeviceName":"","gpuDriver":"","gpuDriverVersion":"","gpuVendorId":0,"machineModel":"Not available","remotingAssistanceAllowed":0,"remotingVersion":1,"renderer":2,"rtcpMux":true,"screencast":2,"screencastLocalPreview":1,"supportsConcurrentSessions":true,"transports":["i","gice"],"videoCodecs":[[99,"H264-SVC",640,360,30],[97,"H264",640,360,30],[98,"H263",640,360,30]],"videoRtpHdrExts":[{"id":2,"uri":"urn:ietf:params:rtp-hdrext:toffset"},{"id":3,"uri":"http://www.webrtc.org/experiments/rtp-hdrext/abs-send-time"}]}]
Sep 29 11:57:17 alpha slim[1048]: [001:206] F->C: ["mf","mf4.6","4.6.3.0",2,{"audioCodecs":[[103,"ISAC",1,0,16000],[104,"ISAC",1,0,32000],[9,"G722",1,64000,16000],[102,"ILBC",1,13300,8000],[0,"PCMU",1,64000,8000],[8,"PCMA",1,64000,8000],[107,"CN",1,0,48000],[106,"CN",1,0,32000],[105,"CN",1,0,16000],[13,"CN",1,0,8000],[127,"red",1,0,8000],[126,"telephone-event",1,0,8000]],"audioRtpHdrExts":[{"id":1,"uri":"urn:ietf:params:rtp-hdrext:ssrc-audio-level"}],"camDeviceName":"Unknown Camera","caps":7,"cpuAdaptVersion":1,"cpuArchitecture":1,"cpuCacheSize":3145728,"cpuFamily":6,"cpuFlags":["sse2","ssse3","sse4_1","sse4_2"],"cpuHasSSE2":true,"cpuModel":37,"cpuSpeed":2667,"cpuStepping":5,"cpuVendor":"GenuineIntel","cpus":4,"cpusPhysical":2,"cryptoRandom":"E8HMoakvNyHpWl2HL5jLZBgC","cryptoSuites":["AES_CM_128_HMAC_SHA1_80","AES_CM_128_HMAC_SHA1_32"],"dataChannelVersion":1,"effectsVersion":10,"gpuDescription":"","gpuDeviceId":0,"gpuDeviceName":"","gpuDriver":"","gpuDriverVersion":"","gpuVendorId":0,"machineModel":"Not available","remotingAssistanceAllowed":0,"remotingVersion":1,"renderer":2,"rtcpMux":true,"screencast":2,"screencastLocalPreview":1,"supportsConcurrentSessions":true,"transports":["i","gice"],"videoCodecs":[[99,"H264-SVC",640,360,30],[97,"H264",640,360,30],[98,"H263",640,360,30]],"videoRtpHdrExts":[{"id":2,"uri":"urn:ietf:params:rtp-hdrext:toffset"},{"id":3,"uri":"http://www.webrtc.org/experiments/rtp-hdrext/abs-send-time"}]}]
Sep 29 11:57:17 alpha slim[1048]: [2571:2594:0929/115717:ERROR:audio_manager_base.cc(422)] Not implemented reached in virtual std::string media::AudioManagerBase::GetDefaultOutputDeviceID()

Normal noise level of first generation XServes

I just purchased a used first-generation XServe.
I turn it on, and the noise level is horrendous. It is as loud as when my old G5 PowerMac "crashed" and all 8 fans would run at full speed.
Is this normal?
Thanks for your answers!

Sound levels are relative - what may be noisy to you may not be too bad for someone else.
Remember, the XServe is designed/expected to be racked in a server room, with all kinds of other servers, air conditioning systems, etc. - datacenters are inherently noisy places and the XServe isn't out of line with other server platforms.
Part of the issue is the small size - at 1U there's only room for small 1.5" fans, which have to spin faster to move the same volume of air as the larger 6" behemoths in the PowerMacs, so they will be noisy.
The best way to tell if your noise level is within the expected range is to check Server Monitor which will tell you the fan spin speed - 4,000 RPM is typical for a properly-conditioned environment. If your fans are spinning significantly faster than that (up to 12K - 14K RPM) then there's a problem, either with the temperature settings that make the system think it's hotter than it is, or with the environment (it really is too hot).
Just one further thought - you say 'first generation'... do you mean the XServe G4? the G4 was significantly noisier than later revisions such as the G5 and the Intel-based XServes, although none of them would be considered 'quiet'.

Excessive Noise Levels

Hi, i'm getting a High Noise Level issue with a Linksys WRT54GL and with a high gain antenna LIN HGA7T. The problem is that at the WRT54GL location there're some neighbour antennas that at certain times off the day seems to be transmiting signals that increase the Noise Level seen by the wireless cards. So from the pc connected via wireless we're having ping responses to the AP for about 700 - 900 ms and sometimes (almost one time a day) it drops the pc from the wireless and it`s really hard to get connected again. When the signal stops, we recover normal noise levels and the ping response is at 1ms without any troubles. We're using WUSB54Gc cards. The question is, if i add another AP could i override the noise level? This would increase the signal strength in order to avoid the disconnection and the bad response times? Which AP should i use to this purpose? Is there any othe solution? Thanks a lot for your help.

Your best solution to this problem will probably be to simply change your router's channel (see more channel info below). However, I have included my full set of wireless connection tips:
There are many causes for poor wireless connections, and many solutions:
First of all, give your network a unique SSID. Do not use "linksys". If you are using "linksys" you may be trying to connect to your neighbor's router. Also set "SSID Broadcast" to "enabled". This will help your computer find and lock on to your router's signal.
Poor wireless connections are often caused by radio interference from other 2.4 GHz devices. This includes wireless phones, wireless baby monitors, microwave ovens, wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers, and your neighbor's wireless network. In rare cases, Bluetooth devices can interfere. Even some 5+ GHz phones also use the 2.4 Ghz band. Unplug these devices, and see if that corrects your problem.
In your router, try a different channel. There are 11 channels in the 2.4 GHz band. Usually channel 1, 6, or 11 works best. Check out your neighbors, and see what channel they are using. Because the channels overlap one another, try to stay at least +5 or -5 channels from your strongest neighbors. For example, if you have a strong neighbor on channel 9, try any channel 1 through 4.
Also, try to locate the router about 4 to 6 feet above the floor, in an open area. Do not locate it behind your monitor or near other computer equipment or speakers. The antenna should be vertical.
Also, in the computer, go to your wireless software, and go to "Preferred Networks" (sometimes called "Profiles" ). There are probably a few networks listed. Delete any network named "linksys". Also delete any network that you do not recognize, or that you no longer use. If your current network is not listed, enter its info (SSID, encryption (if any), and key (if any) ). Then select your current network and make it your default network, and set it to automatic login. You may need to go to "settings" to do this, or you may need to right click on your network and select "Properties" or "settings".
If the above does not fix your problem, download and install the latest driver for your wireless card.
For wireless g routers, try setting the "Transmission Rate" to 54 Mbps. For wireless n routers, try setting the "n Transmission Rate" to 162 Mbps, and the (wireless g) "Transmission Rate" to 54 Mbps.
If you still have trouble, download and install the latest firmware for your router. After a firmware upgrade, you must reset the router to factory defaults, then setup the router again from scratch. If you saved a router configuration file, DO NOT use it.
Hope this helps.

HOWTO Workaround Power Consumption Problem w/ Garm...

Preface
After suffering from low standby battery life for quire a while (less than 24h on E51) I have figured out that the problem comes from a background service installed by Garmin Mobile XT. I have made a few measurements w/ Nokia Energy Profiler and the difference between having Garmin installed or not is 3 fold. That is 0.05W average standby power consumption w/o Garmin installed and 0.16W average standby power consumption w/ Garmin installed, everything else the same.
The Problem
Garmin Mobile XT installs a small service w/ unknown to me purpose which sucks the extra .10W of power even w/o Garmin started. There is an option to Enable/Disable this service in Garmin Mobile XT's configuration menu which is Disabled by default. The problem is that even that the default setting is Disabled, the service still runs once Garmin is installed.
The Workaround
Until Garmin fixes this bug you can disable the background service by following these steps:
0. Install Garmin Mobile XT on your handset if you haven't done so.
1. Start Garmin Mobile XT.
2. Select "Tools" from the three buttons on the right.
3. Select "Settings".
4. Select "System".
5. Scroll down and set "Launch background service" to "Enabled".
6. Exit Garmin Mobile XT.
7. Repeat steps 1 - 5 but this time set "Launch background service" to "Disabled".
8. Reboot your handset.
Done
Result
Now the background service will be *truly* disabled and your standby battery life should return to normal.

Thanks for your suggestions, but i was finally able to figure it out myself. linux-lts was unfortunately no option for me, as i want to use bumblebee. But the direction, this pointed me to was good. It seems one of the kernel updates broke my bumblebee package, so the power management didnt work and the card was constantly powered on. This was nothing new, but my powertop completely messed it up, by adding this additional power consumption to eth0. Funny enough, this power consumption even disappeared, when i unloaded eth0. After deleting powertops saved results and recalibrating it, it now shows up all components power usage correctly.
Thus i mark this thread as SOLVED.

Since I have upgraded from 7.1 then the power consumption increased slightly unbelievable. I have new batteries in my iphone 5 and when I had at ios 7 so was consumption that allows the battery envelope in two days and with ios 7.1 so is it only 12 hours

Since I have upgraded from 7.1 then the power consumption increased slightly unbelievable. I have new batteries in my iphone 5 and when I had at ios 7 so was consumption that allows the battery envelope in two days and with ios 7.1 so is it only 12 hours before I need to recharge the battery.

Wrote a little wrong the first time!
Then I upgraded to 7.1 so have power consumption increased slightly unbelievable. I have new batteries in my iphone 5 and when I had at ios 7 so was consumption that allows the battery envelope in two days and with ios 7.1 so is it only 12 hours before I need to recharge the battery.

P7N SLI Platinum and power consumption?

In few day I'll get a Msi P7N SLI platinum to replace my Gigabyte P35,I would like to know the power consumption for 750i? Is lower than 780i?
You can see in the picture the 780i 48W and P35 only 16W So big different!!!

A quick Google search pulled this article. Not sure if it helps you any, but here you go...
http://hothardware.com/Articles/NVIDIA_nForce_780i_SLI_Arrives/?page=11

Power consumption and thermal dissipation for SG 100-24

Hello,
I need to know the following informations about Switch model SG 100-24
- power consumption (watt)
- thermal dissipation (BTU/hour)
Please may somebody help me out on this ?
(by the way such information is not in the Cisco documentation)
Thank you,

Hi Dave,
thank you for your interest, please do not forget the thermal dissipation.
Both power wattage and thermal information are essential for sizing a rack of many different appliances.
Looking forward to your answer then. Thank you
Regards, Giovanni

Will an iPhone automatically turn off location services. If it goes below a certain battery power level, and so how you disable this in settings.

I am working with Georgia DOT and we have created an app to track our state vehicles using IPhone 5. My question is: will an iPhone automatically turn off location services? If it goes below a certain battery power level, and if so how do you disable this in settings.
Message was edited by: mickyel

I don't believe that this will happen, however, the entire iPhone will shut down when the iPhone reaches the auto-shutdown power level. There is no way to turn that Off other that connecting the iPhone to power.

SGE2010 and SRW2008: Noise level and power consumption?

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