Sharpening in CS3

To sharpen a colour image you can,in CS2, go to Mode-Lab-Chanels etc and after sharpening return to Greyscale and RGB returning the image to colour this is a heavier sharpening method than using unsharp mask on the original image.
CS3 allows you to use the same method as far as returning to Greyscale but won't allow you to return to RGB and returning the colour to the image...
Any reason why.....
I use Windows XP CS3

It works fine at 100% view. But as a thumb rule I view the image at 12.5% or 25% or 50% depending on the image size/dimension and the resolution (250 or 300dpi) to view the sharpening effect. And this has always worked for me to check the amount of sharpening I need to provide to get good prints.
But viewing the image at 100% may not be the best way to see the sharpening effect on the final print. What surprises me is the fact that it works fine after I reset the settings to factory default for a few images.
I believe there are other folks out there who have seen similar issues but have no answers at this point of time.
Rgds,
Sudhir

Similar Messages

CS3 Extended or CS3 for use with LR?

CS3 Extended refers to an interface to Lightroom; however, I've found I can use CS3 to edit and save back to Lighroom. If all I'm doing is using plugins in CS3 to do noise reduction and sharpening, and CS3 to print, why would I need Extended?

Photoshop CS3 Extended is not intended for still Photography. It would be better used in motion Photography (the Movie Industry). PSCS3 Extended can be used for creative work to compliment Adobe After Effects which does for motion Photography what Photoshop does for still Photography.

Sharpening in PS3 and lightroom

Hi,
After sharpening in PS3 with the intent of printing from Lightroom, what should the settings be regarding the sharpening in Lightroom? Still on high? How does the Lightroom sharpening affect the sharpening done in PS3, if in fact something is happening? Thanks again!

John,
Good question. You may already be very aware of the following, but for those who may not be, the sharpening tools in Lr are MEANT to be used as the first stage in a two or three step process, as outlined by Bruce Fraser in his book, RealWorld Camera Sharpening with Adobe CS2. Jeff Schewe, a close friend and collaborator with the late Mr. Fraser, has explained the whole thing both online in Lr tutorials and here on the forum.
Bruce taught three stage sharpening:
1) Capture, where you overcome the problems inherent in digital sensors and Bayer algorithms (this is what LR's sharpening is designed to do and does quite well);
2) Creative, where you select specific areas to do sharpening with the settings appropriate for that area, including "de"-sharpening some areas if useful (done in Photoshop or your other full-pixel-editing program of choice);
3) Output, sharpening designed to match the image to the specific output use, whether "online" or printed, and dependent if printed upon the specific size of the image to be output on the specific printing device. This last stage, also probably done with your chosen pixel editor, is done only for that specific print and you might choose not to save this as your "final" of that image.
As you can see, the problem with printing from Lr is that it is not really designed to do the output sharpening ... but still, once you understand the tools it does fairly well, for smaller prints at least. I think you'll have to test what it does to an image already sharpened in CS3, and let us know what it does.
I think, as Nicolas suggested, that if the Lr staff includes a printing module and expects us to actually use it, they might include a separate tutorial on this specific useage of the sharpening tools.
For anyone who hasn't seen it, PLEASE go online and find Jeff's tutorial on the sharpening features of Lr and how to use them.
R. Neil Haugen

Unchecking Print Resolution - need clarification, need Jeff Schewe

Seeking clarification on using the print module in LR. Have read several threads in which Jeff Schewe (Jeff, are you there?)suggests that you use your file as a master file in LR and that if you uncheck the print resolution box, you can print multiple sizes of an image by merely changing the print size in LR, provided you uncheck the print resolution box.
Want to make sure that I've got this workflow right. You do your edits in LR and process your raw file. Then bring the file into CS3 for whatever other tweaks are needed. Add a layer and do your output sharpening on this layer, but don't go up to the Image, Image Size command. Do your sharpening without resizing or resampling.
My RAW files come into CS3 with a resolution of 240 pixels/inch. This is the native resolution?? After sharpening in CS3 (without resizing or resampling), bring the file back into LR. In the print module, uncheck print resolution (LR shows the resolution as being 240 ppi)and enter the height and width of the print size (not the paper size, but the print size) in the cell size. Go into page setup (Windows) which will take you into your print driver. On my Epson r2400 this is where I choose sheet vs roll, paper type, print quality, click ICM, then click off. Ok my way out of the Epson driver back to LR. On the white page layout in the center of the print module, LR will give me a new ppi reading. In my workflow, I typically print at 8x12 inches, so now LR is telling me that it is at 275 ppi. Pick profile and rendering intent in color management. As long as the read out for my print size in the white center section of lightroom reads between 180-480ppi, then at this point I am good to go and click print.
Have I got it? Am I missing something? Please, enlighten me.
Will LR provide a superior print to CS3 or is it six of one, half dozen of the other?
Thanks,
Cynthia

First off, it's poor form to address posts in a public forum to single individuals...this is a forum and ALL members should be encouraged to post...this is akin to asking for an answer to a question be sent directly by email.
The resolution of raw files is xxxxpixels by xxxxpixels. That's the only way to think of resolution in Lightroom. As a result, the image may be said to be 240, 300, 360 or 480 PPI depending on the size the image will print. A small print, held closer will need more PPI than a large print hung on a wall. So the resolution of a raw file will vary depending on the size of the final cropped & printed image. As long as the PPI of the image size is between 180-480 PPI you really have no reason for up or down sampling...
When I work on an image in Photoshop from Lightroom, I'll have an image print size in mind. I use softproofing for final tweaks to the image-often applied locally and set the PPI (Image Size without resample) to the size I want then use PhotoKit Sharpener for the resulting pixel density. Then hit save and print from Lightroom.
The -Edit file in Lightroom has the pixel density I speced in Photoshop and the softproofing tweaks as well. I then print form Lightroom-not so much because Lightroom is capable of producing BETTER prints...but because I find it quicker and easier to print with LR's print environment.
If I want to make a different sized print (or a print on different papaer requiring a different profile) I'll open the tiff image into Photoshop from Lightroom using the Edit Original...my original tiff file with all layers pops open, I'll make whatever changes I need and hit save again...so that one master tiff file becomes my print mater file with all the layers I may need to either use, or turn off if I don't need them. The same image, if printed 4x6 will have different pixel density than a 13x19" print, thus I'll have tow separat sets of output shaprening. But I don't need to resample the image, I resize without resampling checked to change the ratio and density.
And yes, all of this with Lightroom's print module set to no resampling and no sharpening...minor changes in the image cell size in LR don't require going back into Photoshop for resizing...

Where is Smart Sharpen CS3 Settings folder located on the computer?

Where is Smart Sharpen CS3 Settings folder located on the computer?
Filter>Sharpen>Smart Sharpen
Settings>Save a Copy of Settings.
I once created and saved many custom settings on my old computer.
They would appear in the drop down Setting menu.
My question is, where is the Smart Sharpen Settings folder located on the computer?
I did do a Forum Search Smart Sharpen but results did not yield any info on where custom settings are stored.
Thank you in advance.
Kathryn
Mac OSX version 10.4.11

Kathryn...
I remember this exact subject coming up a year ago or more, and at that time I did some experimentation and some digging. Up until you asked your question, I had forgotten I ferreted this out before.
Back then, I created and saved a Smart Sharpen preset, and I named it
drogueflute
so I could find it again.
Just this morning, I did the same thing (because I had forgotten that I did it before), and named the preset
whelkvines
, again, so I could find it easily. Imagine my surprise when I first dropped that presets menu in the Smart Sharpen dialogue, and saw
drogueflute
staring back at me! The memories of doing this same thing before all came flooding back.
OK...so I saved out the preset I named
whelkvines
I found references to the two custom settings I saved out of the Smart Sharpen dialogue box. They are buried deep within the code for Photoshop's settings.
For me (and I'll generally assume for most users) these are stored in the Preferences folder...
../Users/
youruseraccountname
/Library/Preferences/Adobe Photoshop CS2 Settings/Adobe Photoshop CS2 Prefs.psp
Sooooo, if you want to import these presets, you'll need to find the "Adobe Photoshop
[version name Prefs.psp" file on your old computer that contained your custom Smart Sharpen presets and put it in its proper place on your new system, replacing the preferences (.psp) file you're currently working from.
Be warned that if the Prefs file on your old computer is from an ancient version of Photoshop, it may not work for a newer version on your new system.
Make sure you keep your current Prefs file handy (move it to your desktop, for example) so you can replace it if something breaks in a really bad way. Or, you could just reset ALL of your current Photoshop preferences by following the instructions presented in the FAQ section of this forum.

Sharpening video in Premiere CS3

Hi all,
I was just wondering what kind of success you all are having using the sharpening effect in Premiere CS3?
It appears that its only useful at very low levels before it starts to create visible artifacts.
Are there any procedures, plugins or standalone apps that do a better job?

Sharpening can be a touchy subject. A little can go a long way, and too much is easy to attain.
One workflow that I employ, when visual Sharpening is needed is to first add Neat Video and adjust it accordingly. Afterwards, I'll then use Unsharp Mask, judicially. The reason for this two-step process is that Neat Video reduces the video noise (essentially the "grain" in the image), and then the Unsharp Mask is able to "sharpen" the footage without sharpening the video noise. I think that Neat Video still offers a trial. It used to be time limited only, no watermark, but check this out, as I have owned it for years, and have not seen a trial in that period of time. Render times will be impacted, but on my workstation it's not bad - maybe an extra cup of coffee, or two...
Good luck,
Hunt

PS CS3 Smart Sharpen very slow for LCE

PS CS3 Smart Sharpen is very slow to create a preview and then be applied to the image, at least when using a low amount and high radius, eg 20, 50, for local contrast enhancement (LCE). I'm now running Vista 64, but I think it happened even under XP 32.
Is this a common issue or is there some way of speeding things up with Smart Sharpen?
Cheers, John

A solution!
It turns out the problem in my case was in fact Suitcase. Previously, I'd tried turning it off, but that didn't fix the problem, so this time, I uninstalled it completely and the problem disappeared. I then began re-adding it (installed 15.0.1, upgraded it, etc.) and the problem resurfaced with the addition of the Photoshop-specific plugin. Deleting that plugin solved the problem. So it seems that "disabling" Suitcase by stopping the TypeCore doesn't seem to actually disable all of the tentacles it sticks into your system.
You can find the plugin here: Applications / Adobe Photoshop CS6 / Plug-ins / Automate / ExtensisFontManagementPSCS6.plugin
(After a restart, I also had to delete the font cache, as described here http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/troubleshoot-fonts-photoshop-cs5.html but your mileage may vary.)
Alternately, if you don't want to delete the plugin, disabling it from within Photoshop seems to work as well. To do that, go to File > Automate > Extensis, click Preferences..., then deselect Enable Suitcase Fusion 4 Auto-Activation.
Fortunately, the plugin doesn't seem necessary at all to use the the core functionality of Suitcase (enabling and disabling fonts) in Photoshop. I didn't even know what these app-specific plugins did until researching this problem, and I still don't quite understand the point of them. I guess they allow you to let the apps for which they're installed do a little bit more of their own management (enable a font via Suitcase that isn't enabled system-wide), but that seems like more control than I need--if I'm enabling a font, I want all my software to be able to use it.
Anyway, the problem seems to be completely solved on my system now, though I just did all this, so more testing over the next few days is required. I'll post here if any issues crop up. I'm interested in hearing if this solves it for anyone else as well.

Sharpening in Aperture 1.5.6

I'm using Aperture 1.5.6 on OSX 10.4.11
My camera is a canon 40d.
When I import RAW images from the memory card I've noticed that if i open the adjustments HUD and look at the Edge sharpening intensity slider, it's already at around 0.8
I'm used to opening my files, after any adjustments in Aperture, in Photoshop CS3 via the "open with external editor" command and performing Unsharp Mask on them. Should I slide the Edge Sharpen Intensity slider to 0 if I'm intending to sharpen with an external editor?
I'm not as familiar with the sharpening in Aperture as I am with the unsharp mask filter in PS.
It would be nice if I could get the same quality of sharpening in Aperture as I achieve in PS as that's all I'm using PS for in most cases.
Can anyone advise on how I can get similar results in Aperture or whether I should continue to sharpen in PS.
Thanks.

gah hey im having this problem too
and it all worked last week <?>
formatted flash drive on camera.
downloaded photos from a file reader via flash drive.
camera = canon mk3ds eos
can see previews in apeture (2.1.2) but large image on browser is unsupported.
error message "unsupported image format".
have tried downloading them again and importing them again etc.
both straight into apeture and via hard drive folder.
but it worked last week?
bit upset i love aperture and my new camera now nothing is working well
for info i loaded up canon photo professional which is canons own brand image processor (which is a bit rubbish imho) and the images worked on that.
they will not import to photoshop (an old version)

Adobe PhotoShop CS3 - Image Enhancements

Hello.
I have an extensive website with images...
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_show.html
I use PS CS3 to enhance images. Enhancements revealing details not visible to the naked eye.
My latest images. A Mars dust devil.
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_A.jpg
Enhanced......
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_B2.jpg
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_B2A1.jpg
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_B2A10A.jpg
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_B2A11A.jpg
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154B2A16C.jpg
I am trying to duplicate these images. No success.
I did not take notes or saved my history.......I really would like to re-create these images.....Re-create the steps needed duplicate this image. I
only need to duplicate or reveal the details - not the colors (false colors are from a gradient filter - a grayscale maping tool).
http://marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_B2A10A.jpg
My challenge to anyone out there.....Re-create or duplicate my images.......In this way, someone else can confirm my images.
Base image.......I have used the TIFF image as my source.
http://photojournal.jpl.nasa.gov/catalog/?IDNumber=PIA04154
I am claiming that these so-called Martian dust devils are not natural events. Technology or intelligence is involved.
I have more dust devil images - Slide show "Spirit Rover Dust Devils"
Ken

Hello Mike.
Typical forum response.....One of the reasons I was reluctant to post a topic.
I am trying to stay away from forums....They are whacky....Like a noisy bar or pub......(smiling)...
I have been emailing universities.....Phd types, researchers and scientists.......
My target audience is people from this group....Eventually. They are impossible to reach. I figure posting a forum topic will attract
someone with a strong knowledge base of Adobe Photoshop CS3 or CS4 (algorithms).
http://www.adobe.com/technology/people/seattle/salesin.html
Enlarging, Surface Blur, Noise reduction, Exposure (gamma adjust), Shadows and Highlights, Gaussian Blur (radius 0.3 pixel), Sharpening,
Curves - both customized and presets (contrast adjustments), Color balance, Hue and Saturation, Selective color, and a randomized gradient fill (noise samples, a grayscale mapping tool), does not create faces or addtional details. I know this from using PS CS3.
None of these steps (hints) alter an image. Your book recommendation does not apply.
Given that said, I have used those steps to get from this image...
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_A.jpg
To this image...
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_B2A5.jpg
This.....
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_B2A11A.jpg
Finally, this image..What are we looking at?????....A randomized generated image???....Alterations just by using Surface Blur and such???
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154_E7A4.jpg
http://www.marsesa.9f.com/slide_shows/Sol_537_Dust_Devil/PIA04154B2A16C.jpg
I do not use pen tools, cloning tools, or any type of drawing steps.
What kind of program creates artwork on its own???.....
As I said earlier, I did not take notes or saved my history....I wish I did....
Ken

Clipping in Photoshop CS3 rendered Differently in Lightroom 1.4.1

I called Adobe Tech Support in an attempt to get an answer to my question about why Lightroom (version 1.4.1) seems to show more clipping of an image than viewing clipping of the same image in Photoshop CS3 by using a curves adjustment (show clipping box checked). They did not give me a reasonable answer.
I typically import my images into Lightroom, then make adjustments there, export to CS3 as 16-bit tiffs in ProPhoto RGB Colorspace, then make further color and contrast adjustments in Photoshop. My monitor is calibrated using a Colorvision Spyder2. Color management settings in Photoshop are as follows: ProPhoto RGB Colorspace, US Web Coated (SWOP) v 2, Gray Dot Gain 20%, Spot Dot Gain 20%, Color Management Policies are to preserve embedded profiles for RGB, CMYK, and Gray, profile mismatches are to ask when opening and when pasting, and to ask when opening images with missing profiles; Conversion options are Engine Adobe (ACE), Intent Relative Colormetric, Use Black Point Compensation checked, Use Dither (8-bit/channel images). There are no items checked under advanced controls.
I view proof setup using the same paper profile in CS3 and the print module of Lightroom (perceptual intent, black point compensation checked, simulate paper color and simulate black ink options are unchecked unless being viewed full screen) Sometimes I also use the rendering intent of relative colormetric with black point compensation checked. I am seeing evidence of more clipping almost always in Lightroom (Develop and Library Modules both) than in Photoshop CS3. I understand that the Library Module uses Adobe RGB colorspace rather than ProPhoto, but I still see more clipping in the Develop Module view of the same tiff than its clipping representation in Photoshop CS3. There is a substantial difference (not a small one) in the amount of clipping shown.
I understand that Lightroom Develop Module is using a Perceptual intent and that the default option in Photoshop is absolute colormetric, but I still do not think this completely explains the problem, especially since I have the soft proofing set up to use perceptual intent most often. By the way, I never check the box for preserve RGB numbers.
Can anyone explain why the difference in clipping shown and which one should be taken as more accurate: Lightroom clipping rendering or Photoshop CS3 clipping rendering?
Please note that I ultimately export the final images as jpegs (8-bit) in srgb colorspace before posting on the web. These photos are ultimately ordered from an online printer (usually from Mpix).
Thanks for any help you can give me. Best wishes.
Bob

Hi,
Thanks for your responses. In answer to Jao's questions:
Yes, I turn on the clipping warnings in Lighroom (shortcut j). I am viewing a 16-bit tiff in ProPhoto RGB (that has made the "round trip" from Lightroom to Photoshop CS3 and back again to Lightroom) in Lightroom using the clipping warnings. The clipping shown in CS3 using the adjustment, curves, show clippings are much less than what is shown using the clipping warnings of the same 16-bit tiff in Lightroom.
My workflow is to import Canon Raw (using sRGB, rather than Adobe RGB) into Lightroom. Make color, sharpening, tone, ect. adjustments in Lightroom, then export to Photoshop CS3 as a 16-bit tiff in ProPhoto RGB colorspace. I make additional adjustments to color, tone, skin tones, noise, touchup, sharpening, ect. and then save the file. It reappears again in Lightroom. When I have the clipping warnings on (shortcut j), this tiff appears to have considerably more clipping than on a curves layer showing clipping in Photoshop. Ultimately, I then export these same photos as jpeg (8-bit)in srgb and post to the web where they can be ordered from an online printing service such as Mpix.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Bob

Color Managed Printing from LR 1.3.1 Inverse of Proper PS CS3 10.0.1 Behavior

Please excuse the length and detail of this post - I'm just trying to be very clear...
Also, it would be helpful if anyone having definitive information about this topic could please email me directly in addition to replying to this forum topic, in order that I might know a response is available sooner (I am new to this forum, and may not check it regularly). My direct email address is [email protected].
Bottom Line: Color managed printing using my own custom-generated profiles from LR 1.3.1 to my Epson 7600 (on Intel-based Mac OS X 10.5.2, but saw the same behavior with 10.5.1) using the current Epson 7600 Intel/10.5x-compatible driver (3.09) is broken, and appears to be doing the exact opposite (inverse) of what I would expect and what PS CS3 does properly.
I am color management experienced, and have been using my custom-generated EPSON 7600 profiles with reliable soft proofing and printing success in PS (both CS2 and now CS3) for some time now. I know how the EPSON printer driver should be set relative to PS/LR print settings to indicate desired function. Images exported from LR to PS and printed from PS using "Photoshop Manages Color" and proper printer driver settings ("No Color Adjustment") print perfectly, so it isn't the Intel-based Mac, the OS, the driver, the profile, or me -- it is LR behaving badly.
The specific behavior is that printing from LR using "Managed by Printer" with the EPSON driver's Color Management setting set properly to "Colorsync" prints a reasonable-looking print, about what you would expect for canned profiles from the manufacturer, and in fact identical to the results obtained printing the same image from PS using "Printer Manages Color". So far so good. Switching to my specific custom profiles in LR and printing with the driver's CM setting set properly to "No Color Adjustment" yields results that are clearly whacked, for both LR settings of "Perceptual" and "Relative CM". Just for completeness and out of curiosity, I tried printing from LR using the same profile (once for "Perceptual" and once more for "Relative CM") with the EPSON driver's CM setting set IMPROPERLY to "Colorsync", and the results were much more in line with what you would expect - I would almost say it was "correct" output. This is why I used the phrase "inverse of proper behavior" in the subject line of this topic. Going one step further, trying this same set of improper settings in PS (PS print settings set to "Photoshop Manages Color" with either Perceptual or Rel CM selected, but using "Colorsync" rather than "No Color Adjustment" in the Color Management pane of the EPSON printer driver) yields whacked results as you would expect that look identical to the whacked results obtained from LR using "proper" settings.
I said above that the improper settings from LR yielded results that I would almost say were correct. "Almost" because the benchmark results rendered by PS using proper settings are slightly different - both "better" and closer to each other - than those rendered by LR using the improper settings. The diffs between the Perceptual and Rel CM prints from LR using improper settings showed more marked differences in tone/contrast/saturation than the diffs observed between the Perceptual and Rel CM prints from PS using proper settings - the image itself was in-gamut enough that diffs between Perceptual and Rel CM in the proper PS prints were quite subtle. Even though the improper LR prints were slightly inferior to the proper PS prints, the improper LR prints were still within tolerances of what you might expect, and still better (in terms of color matching) than the "Managed by Printer" print from LR. At first guess, I would attribute this (the improper LR prints being inferior to the proper PS prints) to the CMM being used by LR being different from (inferior to) the CMM I have selected for use in PS (that being "Adobe (ACE)"). I can live with the LR CMM being slightly different from that use

(Here's the 2nd half of my post...)
I said above that the improper settings from LR yielded results that I would almost say were correct. "Almost" because the benchmark results rendered by PS using proper settings are slightly different - both "better" and closer to each other - than those rendered by LR using the improper settings. The diffs between the Perceptual and Rel CM prints from LR using improper settings showed more marked differences in tone/contrast/saturation than the diffs observed between the Perceptual and Rel CM prints from PS using proper settings - the image itself was in-gamut enough that diffs between Perceptual and Rel CM in the proper PS prints were quite subtle. Even though the improper LR prints were slightly inferior to the proper PS prints, the improper LR prints were still within tolerances of what you might expect, and still better (in terms of color matching) than the "Managed by Printer" print from LR. At first guess, I would attribute this (the improper LR prints being inferior to the proper PS prints) to the CMM being used by LR being different from (inferior to) the CMM I have selected for use in PS (that being "Adobe (ACE)"). I can live with the LR CMM being slightly different from that used in PS - that is not the issue here. What is at issue is trying to determine why LR is clearly behaving differently than PS in this well-understood area of functionality, all other variables being the same. (And, incidentally, why am I not seeing other posts raising these same questions?)
My "workaround" is to use "Managed by Printer" for printing rough prints from LR and to do all other printing from PS, especially given the noted diffs in CMM performance between LR and PS and the fact that printing from PS also supports using Photokit Sharpener for high-quality prints. Still it would be nice to understand why this is happening in LR and to be able to print "decent" prints directly from LR when it seemed appropriate.
Any insights or suggestions will be very much appreciated. Please remember to reply to my direct email address ([email protected]) in addition to your public reply to this forum.
Thank you!
/eddie

Not enough RAM-Memory even to sharpen my images in CC??

This has never happend before, Photoshop CC says I don't have enough RAM to even sharpen my images with Smart Sharpen. This has never happend before in CS3 or CS6. I have always been working with my CR2-files from an Canon EOS 5D MARK II camera, and it doesn't even work now if I make my images smaller.. My computer is a gaming computer from dell, and I have Windows 8.. Please help..!

Ok, I didn't crop any of my images. ( I have used "image size" under "image" and I did made them smaller)
Here is the system information:
Adobe Photoshop version: 14.0 (14.0 20130423.r.221 2013/04/23:23:00:00) x32
Operativsystem: Windows 8 32 bitar
Version: 6.2
Systemarkitektur: Intel Datorfamilj:6, Modell:15, Version:11 med MMX, SSE-heltal, SSE FP, SSE2, SSE3
Antal fysiska processorer: 4
Processorhastighet: 2394 MHz
Inbyggt minne: 3198 MB
Ledigt minne: 1598 MB
Minne tillgängligt för Photoshop: 1591 MB
Minne som används av Photoshop: 66 %
Plattstorlek för bild: 128K
Bildcache-nivåer: 4
OpenGL: Aktiverad.
Ritningsläge för OpenGL: Avancerat
Tillåt normalt OpenGL-läge: Sant.
Tillåt avancerat OpenGL-läge: Sant.
Tillåt gamla GPU-verktyg för OpenGL: Ej upptäckt.
OpenCL Otillgänglig
OpenGL-version: 3.0
Storlek på rektangulär textur för video: 16384
OpenGL-minne: 1024 MB
Grafikkortsleverantör: NVIDIA Corporation
Grafikkortsrenderare: GeForce GTS 450/PCIe/SSE2
Visa: 1
Visa gränser: överst= 0 till vänster= 0, nederst= 1200 till höger= 1600
Grafikkortsnummer: 1
Grafikkort: NVIDIA GeForce GTS 450
Drivrutinsversion: 9.18.13.1106
Datum för drivrutin: 20130118000000.000000-000
Grafikkortsdrivrutin: nvd3dum.dll,nvwgf2um.dll,nvwgf2um.dll
Grafikläge: 1600 x 1200 x 4294967296 f\x00e4rger
Grafikkortets namn: NVIDIA GeForce GTS 450
Grafikkortsminne: 1024 MB
Serienummer: 90970406556967907553
Programmapp: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CC\
Tillfällig filsökväg: C:\Users\Malin\AppData\Local\Temp\
Photoshops virtuella minne har asynkron I/O aktiverad
Volym(er) för virtuellt minne:
C:\, 931,5G, 391,0G fritt
Mappen Nödvändiga plugin-program: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CC\Required\
Primär mapp för plug-ins: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CC\Plug-ins\
Installerade komponenter:
   ACE.dll   ACE 2013/03/19-12:09:02   79.535293   79.535293
   adbeape.dll   Adobe APE 2013/02/04-09:52:32   0.1160850   0.1160850
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Capture Sharpening for Canon 1Ds II

Hi. I have been away from my photography for some time and am slowly coming back up to speed on things new. For now my focus is on capture sharpening for images shot with my 1Ds II. Previously I used Photokit with variable results and an action combining Smart Sharpen and the sharpen feature embedded in Reduce Noise. (I had, in fact, had a number of discussions with Bruce Fraser a long time back about the results I was getting with Photokit and the 1Ds II. It was my disappointment with the results from Photokit that led to a preference for the results of the SS/RN action.)
I've just read the following thread with interest:
http://forums.adobe.com/click.jspa?searchID=250337&objectType=2&objectID=1207380
It seems things have moved along a lot. I currently have CS3 (ACR 4.6, the latest I believe). My question is have things have moved on beyond the discussion contained in the above thread? I am not focused, at this point, on upscaling/downscaling but rather simply on getting the best full pixel base image.
Is there anything in CS4 (ACR 5.x) which would improve capture sharpening?
(BTW I have previously used Photozoom to upscale. The thought of scaling in ACR seems incompatible with then image-editing independent of output size so that the final work can then be output to any desired size at any point in time.)
Finally, for output sharpening I used Photokit. I have not yet purchased Lightroom. I have yet to fully evaluate the benefits although these seem to be purely workflow oriented rather than 'functional'. One thing in the above thread piqued my interest though and since it's related I will ask: are there significant advantages to output sharpening in Lightroom versus Photokit?
Thanks in advance
Steve

Steve Kale wrote:
Only if one can get an image to final output satisfaction are they useful. I suspect that's a minority of cases but maybe ACR has developed way beyond my current impression.
Well, I guess you haven't downloaded the demo and actually used ACR 5 yet huh? Many, many photographers find with the addition of local tone/color control the numbers of images that MUST go through Photoshop has been drastically cut. So, for those people who can do most everything in ACR, there's the useful ability to do output sharpening. Very handy when you are doing a batch save of a bunch f images intended for a web page or prints at a lab. The only caveat is that for the output sharpening to be effective, you must be able to spec the final size in ACR. That's a bit crude at the moment but should improve in the future...
As for Photoshop having output sharpening as well...I don't disagree...but that's a separate business issue that I can't really get into. Hopefully we will be able to work something out down the road.
The issue with Advanced B&W printing is an Epson issue to fix...it can't be fixed by Adobe (or at least shouldn't be). However, it works just fine if you use intentional double color management and set the CS4 to handle color management and send the driver Adobe RGB (as the output profile) and then also set the driver to Advanced B&W. This works for CS4 and Lightroom 2.x.

ACR 4.41 capture sharpening

Hi I have a question for the experts here. I have XP SP3 PSCS3 ACR 4.41 I am learning Raw with the wonderful Real World Camera Raw with CS3 by Bruce Fraser and Jeff Schewe.
In the book it is recommended to do my capture sharpening with ACR. Currently I have been using the excellent Photokit Sharpener (1.2.6) plug in for PS,after finishing all of my editing in Raw and converting to PSD. Can anyone suggest equivalent settings in ACR 4.41
Amount radius, detail masking options.
for each option in the digital hi-Res capture sharpening set?
superfine, narrow, medium and wide edge
I have an idea that Jeff Schewe might be involved in Photokit too??
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Geoff

>No, there really is no set of settings since it depends on the source capture and the subject matter...the best bet is to make it look "good" at 100%...
It seems strange to me that useful presets are possible with PKSharpener but not with the new ACR sharpening work flow, since both are based on the same principles: Bruce Fraser's sharpening methods.
While some degree of fine tuning is always desirable, Jeff does give some suggestions for landscape and portrait sharpening presets, both in the ACR with PSCS3 book (pages 170-184) and in the Camera Raw tutorial. I think these are for Canon 1DsMII resolution.
In his seminal sharpening book (Image Sharpening with CS2), Bruce Fraser discusses in some detail the settings for source (radius according to camera MP count and amount according to the strength of the blur filter). He also discusses sharpening for subject content in some depth. The OP implied high resolution, so Jeff's suggestions would be a good starting point in building presets for a given camera and subject matter, and the theoretical basis given in Bruce's book goes a long way into how to make rational adjustments.

Capture sharpening and radius setting?

While I am getting better at sharpening per the Fraser-Schewe approach, I certainly still have a lot to learn.
I understand that landscape shots should usually have a radius in the range of 0.5 to 0.8 for capture sharpening (source + content) in ACR.
What are the most important factors to consider in selecting a radius in this range for capture sharpening of landscape shots? I don't think this topic was really addressed in the Real World Camera Raw - CS3 book.
Yes, I will continue to experiment on my own, but some guidance would be most useful.
BTW, my raw captures average 6MB (Canon Powershot S60, small sensor) and for landscape capture sharpening in ACR I am using radius=0.7, amount=60, detail=40.

Joseph one advantage of ACR over other RAW converters is the visual feedback, at least with a fairly fast computer. I would advice to practice more and not to rely on recommended settings. These are a good starting points to shorten the practice period but image content can be more important than blanket statements like "settings for landscapes".
Leaves were mentioned above so let me give an example. A desert shot will qualify as landscape but so will a golf course with grass and various foliage. Green foliage can give strange sharpening effects and often requires very different settings than say red sand and sandstone.
In some cases selective sharpening of selected image areas may be required for best results. Not necessarily as a start but perhaps worth the trouble for "best shot".

Sharpening in CS3

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