Sharpie Markings on White Powerbook

Help! My 3-year-old scribbled on a friend's (for now at least) white Mac laptop with a permanent black Sharpie marker. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting this off? Or can you tell me what the case is made of so I can explain the problem to Sharpie? Thanks much.
powerbook Mac OS X (10.4.3)
powerbook Mac OS X (10.4.3)
powerbook Mac OS X (10.4.3)

Having researched the same issue for another user whose 3 year-old marked up a friend's display with a Sharpie, I've learned that WD-40 is up to the job. There is also a product called Mr. Clean's Magic Eraser that is regularly suggested for special cleaning needs in the iBook forums. I know that it will remove certain kinds of stains as well as adhesives, but I can't vouch for its usefulness for cleaning off permanent marker scribbles.
Let us know how it turns out.

Similar Messages

Photosmart 8750 won't print sharp black and white photos

I am trying to print some black and white photographs using my photosmart 8750 printer. Up until now, I have just done color photographs. After printing my first black and white photograph, I'm very disappointed. While it is definitely gray scale, the dark black colors in the photo aren't coming out black at all...just a shade of gray. I have the gray photo cartridge installed. Is that my problem? Everywhere I read, it says that is what should be used.

Try the troubleshooting steps in this page. Does the diagnostic page print properly?
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

Is there a way of improving print clarity in iOS7 on my iPad & iPhone?

Since I 'upgraded' both my IPad mini & my IPhone 4S to the new operating system I've been both pleased and disappointed.
Most displeasure is with the loss of the sharp black-on-white clarity that defined iCal in iOS6. The new half tone grey may work well for younger users but the reduction in contrast, especially on a small screen, is infuriating for an older user like me.
As a freelance (TV director) I use iCal constantly and now find I'm wasting time peering at the screen & deploring its 'pale & fuzzy' look. And, in case you're thinking of a scornful remark about my eyesight, my Zeiss-lensed spectacles give me excellent clarity of vision, thank you.
Please will Apple quickly introduce an upgrade to change the typeface colour?

You didn't have a backup of your MacBook's hard drive when it had to be replaced? If you do look in your Home/Library/Application Support/iWeb folder to see if the Doman.sites2 file is there. If it is drag it to the same folder on your new hard drive and open with iWeb. That should give you your old sites back.
If you don't have a backup then you'll have to do what QTKirt pointed out. However, Chapter 2.3 on the iWeb FAQ.org site has tips on using some of the existing files, image, audio, video, etc., from the published site in the creation of the new site.
OT

How do I print the contrast between "filled" text and its surrounding "box"?

Hi,
Apologies in advance for any ambiguity or confusion . . .
I am a self-taught Photoshop user who has come upon a problem to which I cannot find an answer, despite searching online for hours . . .
When I design a project, it looks beautiful on screen . . . when I print it, however, it loses the definition between colors inside a font and the shape surrounding the font . . .
To be more exact:
I am working at 300 dpi . . .
I create a rectangle and fill it with red. I then write text inside of the rectangle and the font color is white. Onscreen, it looks clear and well-defined. When I print it, however, there is not clear definition between the font and its surrounding area . . . the colors seem to bleed into each other . . . I have tried using different paper (glossy, matte, etc.), have tried putting a narrow stroke around the text, etc., but nothing help to clearly define the difference between the text and its surrounding shape/color.
It also does not matter the size of the font, although the larger the font, the easier it is to "see" the difference. But a white font at 24 point looks no sharper than a white font at 8 pt.
I am using an Epson XP-610 printer . . . it is a home deskjet and I mainly design for fun, but this "lack of sharpness" on the fonts is driving me crazy. I would included a screenshot, but it would not help much, since the project looks beautiful and clear on the screen.
The colors only seem "muddled" when I print. Any advice, or even a point in the direction of something I can read to help me understand what to do, would be helpful. . . . TIA!I

Hullo Cheapster:
I too am confident that this facility does not exist in relation to the underline function as such. Nor am I aware of a workaround that would let you access it straightforwardly for routine usage in body text. The underline facility, like the strikethrough, is provided because it is standard in some documentation which a wordprocessing might be expected to serve - but as such, it is provided in limited conventional formats. Otherwise, I agree, it is not ideal typography.
However, for occasional use, there are two workarounds you might like to consider. One is to use the line drawing facility available through the insert menu (insert shape, choose line; then grab its handles to make it horizontal) or the same process initiated from the objects icon in the toolbar.
Be aware, however, that the above could require further attention to your wrap options: you would need to deselect any wrap - but could still need to modify your line spacing options to avoid irregular line spacings with the rest of your text.
Possibly simpler is to bear in mind that you can produce an underline without its text. To do this, select underline (Command / U) and type "non-breaking spaces" (option / space). This would allow you to place your underline on a separate line from your underlined text. You could do the same with the strikethrough function, which you access via the effects section in the font panel for closer spacing; or alter the line spacing where you need to do this.
Either of the above would affect your surrounding text in a way that would make these methods unsuitable for incorporation into body text.
However, if your interest in doing this relates to headlines or the like, one or other of these options might suit your purpose.
Regards.

Anyone having trouble with the proximity sensor using the otterbox defender case?

When I have the otterbox case on my proximity sensor is not working at all making it difficult talking on the phone I keep hitting mute etc with my cheek if I take the case off it works fine so its not the phone itself but I need the Case for protection any suggestions?

KBella315 wrote:
When I have the otterbox case on my proximity sensor is not working at all making it difficult talking on the phone I keep hitting mute etc with my cheek if I take the case off it works fine so its not the phone itself but I need the Case for protection any suggestions?
Hi I had this problem with my wifes case, my defender worked fine, turned out it was her white inner case. Did you get the Pink on white one? If so, I've been told you can color in the proximity sensor area of the defender with a black sharpie (on the white part) and that shouold fix your problem.
I just tried that as I have her case here still and coloring the proximity sensor area black worked.

Importing RAW images from Canon preserves settings.

I'm somewhat confused with what I'm reading with respect to RAW being 'unaltered'.
When I shoot RAW on my 5D, the camera settings (picture style - colour, contrast, sharpness etc.) are all seemingly retained when I import the images into Aperture. In fact, if I export versions immediately following a RAW import the differences in picture style are also retained in the subsequent jpeg.
The exception is shooting in monochrome.
My understanding is that RAW is an unaltered format. If that's the case, then why do I see 3 different images in Aperture if I use 3 different camera picture styles for an identical subject when shooting RAW ?
It may be that all of the original information is still there, but the images do not appear 'unaltered'.
Paul

The raw you record on your memory card is the raw data from the sensor, but still with the attributes you have chosen. So the images sharpness, aperture and white balance etc are all controlled by you in many ways. Its a conscious choice on Aperture etc, but if playing with styles this is another method of offloading certain aspects to the camera. As you select different styles, within the camera it applies different settings eg. sharpness. This is no different to you changing aperture's between 'identical' shots. Its just another setting.
At the end of you choices and you depress the shutter button, all your choices and camera settings are applied to the image data and you get the raw file. Including your Aperture and picture styles.
When the raw is considered unaltered, it means the image from the sensor is not compressed in a lossy way like jpg. ie. the raw file is much bigger and contains data that you can push/pull to recover highlights/shadows.
I don't have a 5D, but the picture styles are just another set of choices you make like shutter speed etc.

Display dims before sleep, no matter the setting

My MacBook will dim its screen (ie: reduce brightness) after about 10 seconds of idle time. I've read to stop this you need to uncheck the "dim display before sleep" checkbox under energy saver preferences. I've done this for both the power adapter and batery settings, but the display still dims! It will dim when running from the batery or the power adapter. It makes watching DVD's useless.
Has anyone else seen this? I find it annoying, but it's driving my wife crazy.
PowerMac G4 Quicksilver 867mhz, MacBook 2GHz (white) Mac OS X (10.4.6)

One option to try would be to change the login settings so that you are not automatically logged in when you start up to the computer. After you make this change, log out, log back in, toggle that display sleep setting on then back off and check the result.
Something else that might be worth a try...
First, I'm not sure what preferences, if any, will need to be reset after this. Also, I have not done this and do not know the result. As always, backup your stuff.
1. Go to the folder ./Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration (not your Library folder but the one at the root level of your hard disk).
2. Drag the file named com.apple.PowerManagement.plist to the trash. You will be prompted to enter your admin password when you do this.
3. Restart.
MacBook/2.0/1GB/CTO (white); PowerBook G4 12/1.33 Mac OS X (10.4.6) Airport Express, iPod mini, iPod nano

Cheap Camera Challenge with- a Barbie Camera

For those of you not familiar with the Cheap Camera Challenge, DigitalRev is a site that basically educates photographers. One idea that they try to communicate is that it is not about the equipment, it is about the photographer and their ability to create art from any tool they are given.
They have put toy cameras in the hands of great photographers with amazing results.
This time they handed a competant professional filmmaker a Barbie Camera with a 240p resolution, and told him he had to create a short film. It turned out a little silly and slightly adult themed, but some of the shots are really amazing. Stick around to the end of the video.
You might find this video worth your time.
For more about Philip Bloom, click here.

Years ago the use of cheap film cameras was popular for the same reasons they are used today as expressed in above post.
I guess you could say that the original Kodak Brownie cameras were an inexpensive way for lots of normal people to shoot stuff like vacation pictures and it was easy to do by following the instructions that came with the film and camera.
For a while the " Diana" camera was a popular challenge to artists and even became a fad for a while. The professional photographers would use the cheap Diana camera ( cost about 10 cents ) which was plastic with a plastic lens and was very easy to operate. It had a button you pushed and a leaf would kinda fly through the gate behind the plastic lens ( there was one spring like wire that operated the shutter ).
With film there is often a sheet of paper that comes in the box and it has info on it about how to use the film and process it and stuff like that. There are ( or at least there used to be ) pictures to show people how to expose the film.
Like there was a picture of
1) the sun
2) the sun with cloud
3) a cloud
4) rain
Something like that...
And THEN below each picture was a number ...like F 11, F 8, F 5.6, F 4 ....so basically you looked at the picture and then at the world around you...and matched them.
So if it was sunny out you set your camera lens to F 11.
Pretty simple....yipee !
So that was the " basics " of camera operation... Now the other thing that was real BASIC was the choice of what to shoot...and how to frame it. Nothing fancy about the Diana camera.. you basically looked through the platic viewfinder and pointed at something you thought was pretty and pressed the little plastic button. Then you had to advance the film or else you would stay there forever and just keep getting multiple exposures !!!! OMG.
I personally used my Diana camera so much that several bad things happened eventually. For one thing the plastic lens fell off and landed in the dirt one day. So I had to use elmo's glue and stick it back onto the camera. That worked out fine.
Then light started leaking into the body through the seams of the plastic door where you load film. So I had to put black paper tape around the seams after loading the film ( which was 120 size ). That worked out fine too.
To get more " professional " in my experiments with the cheapo camera I started to use a secret method of exposing and developing the film , in order to get a specific " look " in the final prints. I could do this cause I had my own darkroom and enlarger and all that stuff at the time.
This is black and white now...
Here's the secret. You overexpose one stop. That means that if you see a sun shining in the real world, and you see F 11 under the picture of the sun on your film info sheet... you open up one stop to F 8.
This is fun because a person starts to actually THINK about things instead of just using camera features on fancy cameras.
For example, a person learns that from F 11 to F 8 is twice the amount of light. From F 8 to F 5.6 is twice the amount of light too.
With shutter speeds the relationship becomes clear between F stops and shutter speeds. For example going from 1/250 to 1/125 is twice the amount of time. Now here's where thinking in your head really gets cool...with cheapo camera. Let's say a correct exposure is F 8 at 1/60
Cause now a person can see that when letting in half the amount of light ( from F 8 to F 11 ) you can change the shutter to 1/30 and you still have the correct exposure ! The difference is now the DOF from the changed F stop. So the plot thickens as a cheapo camera teaches us these things if they aren't known already.
The Diana camera made things easier than all that stuff anyway. It only had ONE shutter speed ( I think it was 1/60 , I forget ). So there was no choice about playing with F stops and shutter speeds.
However ( back to my secret overexposure method now ) there is a way to under develop film to accomodate overexposed film... and the chemical used ( developer ) in the case of black and white, has nice paper info sheets telling you all kinds of stuff about the developer, developer times and temperatures and basically tells you so much stuff a normal human would have no interest in at all. It turns out that you can under develop film so that the overexposed film comes out pretty nice. My secret developer was " Rodinol " which is made in some foreign country.
It gives you really grainy negative but sharp images and whites kinda " glow " a little bit... it is really pretty ! Not " soft " as you might think...you sorta have to SEE the print to know what I mean.
All of this stuff has been introduced here in earlier threads and although we are now in the world of digital it is easy to translate the lessons learned on Diana platic still camera ( film ) to the current digital world of still cameras. It can also be applied to motion pictures if a person keeps in mind that the film motion picture camera is based on a 180 degree shutter...
That means at 24 FPS your shutter speed is 1/48th sec. That is what some people refer to as " the film look ". Changing F stop and iso and shutter speeds are all related and some of having a good understanding of those things is by using cheapo equipment and doing the thinking on your own. Also, the same basics apply regarding the framing of shots and choice of subject matter.
This image below is from the Diana camera. I was in a pond when I took that pic, and I used my secret exposure / rodinol method. I was not bit by a snapping turtle , thank gawd. The Diana camera was not water proof but I bet you $100.00 it would have floated if I dropped it in that pond.
That's the other good thing about cheapo cameras. They are disposable !

Print full black, not grayscale

My new Macbook Air w/Yosemite won't print in pure black - it prints everything in grayscale. I've checked all the boxes in print preview, read through other threads on this subject but don't have an answer. I need to be able to print in clear, sharp black and white w/o having to use my old Sony laptop, which still prints perfectly. Printers are Canon MG 4220 and MG 3520, same problem w/both. Not too happy with this problem, one of many I've encountered w/my new machine. Apple should really look closely at what works well in Windows and copy it - the crappy presets and basic functional issues I've run into do not impress at all.
Any help here is appreciated.

Hi Balderol,
I understand you would like to print black only. I found a document that will help guide you through the steps to set your print settings. This document says it is for 10.3 an d10.4, but the instructions will apply to the newer Mac versions as well. Mac OS X: Printing with the Black Print Cartridge Only Option.
I hope this is helpful.
Please click the Thumbs up icon below to thank me for responding.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Please click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Sunshyn2005 - I work on behalf of HP

Family history with photos, in Pages?

I inherited very old photo albums from my grandparents and parents. There are several hundred photos, which I want to preserve for my family. I'd like to scan them and add text to each photo - it wouldn't be printed out, I just want it on my computer then it can go onto a disc or whatever from there, to give to each of my sons.
It's going to be a big project, and I'll be putting a lot of time into it. I want to choose carefully - is Pages the way to go, or - ? I've heard that word processing programs usually don't deal well with a lot of photos and really large documents - that they often crash.
If anyone has any suggestions on the best way to handle this project I'd really appreciate the help.
Thanks.

Hi again Lynne!
You must be very anxious to get at those very old photos. Are they still in their original albums? Or have you removed them and put them in photo safe boxes or sleeves?
Yes, they have all been scanned from the original albums, using the best scanner software there is: VueScan:
http://vuescan.en.softonicdownloads.com/?kcid=53426ac6-ee2d-2128-2267-000067c325 89
They started life as (sometimes faded) 4"x2" prints but are now all digitized at 250dpi and capable of producing sharp black and white prints up to A4 size. VueScan (no I don't have shares in them!) is incredibly good at restoring old prints, and IMO worth every penny/cent.
They are backed up on three separate hard drives, and in different locations.
If you and your brother live close enough to collaborate on the history, you should have a great time with it - are you doing it soon?
Nothing in life is that simple! I live in SW England, he lives in Brussels, Belgium! Thank heavens for email and Skype! We are still discussing the very subject that you and I are: what to do now! Fortunately the original compilers of the old albums annotated every photo with who was on them and where they were taken, as well as the date. That makes life a LOT easier, but we want to add biographical notes to each person, to the extent that this is possible, as well as building a coherent narative. He knows more about our ancestors (beyond our grand-parents) than I do (he is 8 years older than me!), and I am better at the technical side, so between us we should get a decent result!
As for the family tree, that was compiled some time ago by a great aunt, who was able to go back as far as 1740, beyond which Danish church records (did I mention that I am Danish?) become very tricky and expensive to research. She stopped at around the time of my birth (the 1940s), so updating it has been easy!
'Wonderful stuff' you say. Indeed it is, for it is so much more than a collection of faces and dates. For example, my wife loves looking closely at some of the old photos to find paintings and other objects that we (or my brother and his family) now have. That brings 'family heirlooms' to life! And of course, looking at the fashions and interiors of bygone years is great fun also!
But back to the technical side:
The point you bring up - will our descendants have access to compatible software - is sure a good one - and I think it applies across the board. We're stuck in our own space in time, with our existing technology.
And yet you want to use Pages? A Mac only application? Hmmmm....!
I still go with my Option 4. Books created in the manner described can be printed in multiple copies, and of course are created digitally, so printing them can be repeated.
Let me know what you decide!

Hi, I'd like to put a black and white effect on my colour footage which will look really sharp but which also looks bright so the whites look bright and the blacks look very dark . Any tips of which best effects to use to achieve this look in Prem Pro. Th

Hi, I'd like to put a black and white effect on my colour footage which will look really sharp but which also looks bright so the whites look bright and the blacks look very dark . Any tips of which best effects to use to achieve this look in Prem Pro. Thanks

Under the Effects-Lumetri Looks-Desaturation choose a B and W effect. Then add the luma corrector from the Video effects-colour correction section. Adjust the brightness and contrast to get the effect you want.

I have a PowerBook 145B but something is wrong with the systemfolder so it wont boot. I've downloaded System 7.0.1 from Apple and put it on Floppys with my Macintosh Classic. The PowerBook boots from the floppy, after a minute its just white. What to do?

I have a PowerBook 145B but something is wrong with the systemfolder so it wont boot. I've downloaded System 7.0.1 from Apple and put it on Floppys with my Macintosh Classic. The PowerBook boots from the floppy but after a minute it just comes up a window thats completely white.
I've tried a lot of things, but my Macintosh classic (with original floppys) runs 7.0.0. And the PowerBook needs atleast 7.0.1 and did run 7.1.0 as original OS.
How do I fix this?

Because your PowerBook 145B shipped with OS 7.1, it can't run an earlier version of the Mac OS, such as 7.0.1. Unfortunately, Apple never made OS 7.1 available for download. You can run OS 7.5.1, 7.5.3, and 7.5.5 on your PowerBook, but I'd recommend doing so with the maximum amount of supported memory - 8 MBs. The 19-part download of OS 7.5.3 is segmented, so that each one will fit on a 1.44 MB floppy disk. The problem is that the 19-diskette set isn't an installer set as such, having no bootable disk. It's solely intended to be used to transfer the individual segments to the resident hard drive in the computer. Once that's done, double-clicking the first .smi segment creates the OS 7.5.3 installer disk image on the desktop, which you drag onto the hard drive icon. This produces a folder with the OS 7.5.3 installer in it. I've done this before with an old Mac LC and it works. You can also download the 3-diskette OS 7.5.5 Update and run that. These downloads can be found on the same page where you found the OS 7.0.1 download: Older Software Downloads.

White Balancing & Image Sharpness Filter in Bridge

I don't know where else to place this suggestion... so here goes.
PLEASE, would someone in Bridge programming create an option to use white balancing filters in Bridge! It would save me so much time if I could wb using the thumbnail or filmstrip view. I use Picto Color and mass wb'ing isn't something I'm interested in, so I do it by hand on each pic. All the opening and closing in PS is so tedious! Doing it in Bridge would be optimal.
Also, as a wedding photographer, I have to sort through large quantities of group photos and I WISH Adobe would create some sort of View Sharp Edges tool that you could turn on in Bridge so you could view red lines around all sharp objects. If I could browse through bridge and see red lines around all the eyes and mouths of my large portrait subjects, I could delete the bad ones so much faster!
If anyone is out there who can direct my suggestions to a more proper forum or method of reaching Adobe, please adivse!
Thanks,
Rachel Hardy
TrinityPhotography.Net

I think you are misunderstanding the purpose of Bridge.
And in any case it's unstable enough already without adding more bloat!

Sharp solid white type against black backgorund ...

I'm very new to PSE and also creating web pages. I'm building a web page with Build Your Site. I'm creating a file in PSE to put in the web site. It will have a black background and the type will be white. When I place it in the web page the type does not come out solid or sharp so it hard to read. How can I create sharp, crisp type against a black background in PSE? Thanks.

Thank you, and yes, I've been doing that and selecting a script font which is the one I want to use: Montez. It is a sufficiently thick font yet, as you can see (hopefully in this screen shot), the white is not solidly white. Is there a way of making the type more solidly white? Or some other way to make this font more readable in white against black?

Red sharpie color on my 12" powerbook screeen........HELP!!

A very nice lady accidentally got red Sharpie ink color on my 12" Powerbook G4 screen. I have not tried to remove it yet because I fear damaging the display..... Does anyone have an idea as to what will successfully work to remove this Sharpie color? Many thanks, in advance.

isypropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 90%) can be found at a local drugstore/grocery store, and does a terrific job of removing sharpie from almost every surface, and should not do any damage to your screen.
other option, get some iKlear and see if that'll take it off.

Sharpie Markings on White Powerbook

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for