Sharpness of photos

When I transfer photos into IMovie from either Iphoto or as clips, they lose sharpness. Is there any way to avoid this and why does this happen?

The sharpness might return when the clips are played back. If not check that all the video resolution prefs are ok.

Similar Messages

Sharpness of Photos in Lightroom 5.3

Can anyone please provide an explanation as to why my pictures when edited in Lightroom 5.3 appear soft and seem to require too much sharpening for an acceptable screen view.    When pictures are subsequently made ready for printing from Lightoom 5.3, they then appear over-sharpened when previewed.          Lightroom 5.3 does not seem to show screen images at the same level of sharpness as the supplied RAW processing software supplied by Sony for my A7r camera.      Images loaded directly into Sony's own Raw processor (IMAGE DATA CONVERTER) look tack-sharp having been auto-edited with basic default presets within the programme.
I have invested in a high resolution monitor and this is kept regularly calibrated.       LR 5.3 knows it is dealing with RAW files from my Sony A7r because the Metadata transfers efficiently on import.
If I do any other photo work on my computer (WIN 8.1 64bit), all my pictures look acceptably sharp.     When loaded into LR 5.3, they always seem to require more sharpening to look the same.     Often the sharpness slider requires to be pushed to 100-120 in order for the picture to look correct........
Have I missed some important set-up procedure when installing LR 5.3?         How can I ensure that Sony RAW files look presentably sharp following basic standard preset importation (with the sharpness slider settling to about 25)
Some help with this vexing issue would be appreciated.
Many thanks in advance.

Your comments and those of others appreciated.
2 things to report since my last communication.
a)    I am now reasonably sure that the rendering of sharpened screen images within LR 5.3 do not display correctly when referenced with the amount of overall detail applied.       This is because images exported out of LR 5.3 and then viewed in a different photo viewer look so much better.
b)    By fortunate coincidence, I have now downloaded and installed LR 5.4 and my very first impression is that some improvement in the sharpening (detailing) facility has been incorporated.      I will work with this new version of the programme further before considering a further judgement.
Very best regards and thanks to all.
trshaner wrote:
Billtimepilot wrote:
Forgive my naivety but I feel I must make beg the question, 'why isn't the sharpening facility within LR 5.3 as efficient, effective and straightforward as it is in RAW processors such as SILKYPIX and SONY IMAGE DATA CONVERTER?           Within these programmes, the sharpening added to RAW files by basic default.......which I understand to be known as 'capture sharpening......is usually just right.
There could be a number of things going on that are affecting what you are seeing.The onscreen preview image inside the editing application may be using different scaling algorithms to make the image "fit" in the loupe window. If they are using the simpler and faster nearest-neighbor or bilinear algorithms they will appear sharper (i.e. LR Develop module preview), but on closer examination will also exhibit interpolation "jaggies." along straight edges. I also believe the editing applications you mentioned do not apply noise reduction to the preview image, which may also make the image look a bit sharper.
Run a quick test by applying Sharpening to a raw image at 1:1 view so that it appears cirtically sharp when viewed at 1:4 Zoom in the Library module. Next Export the image to 16bit TIFF, ProPhoto RGB profile with NO Image Sizing and NO Output Sharpening. Using the same raw file Export the image to 16bit TIFF, ProPhoto RGB profile, but with 1:4 Image Sizing (i.e. Long Edge = 1/4 raw file long edge in pixels) with Output Sharpening = Screen Standard. Next Compare the 1:4 resized TIFF export image at 1:1 view to the other two images at 1:4 view so they are equally sized. Let me know what you see.

Best way to maximize sharpness of photo's

I notice when I drop jpgs into iWeb they loose sharpness. Is thier a way to maintain the sharpness. Is this a resize issue? Do photo's need to be resized and optimally sharpend external to iWeb to the exact size you need them in iWeb

Bear in mind that any image that is output by iWeb will become 72 dpi even if it was dropped into iWeb at a much higher resolution.
Michael
Quicksilver G4 Dual 1GHz www.rowan-cottage.co.ukPlease visit and sign our guestmap!

Photo pixelating in iMovie

I extensively have tried to resolve the following issue via apple web site searches, two phone conversations with apple, and many, many varialbe of "self tests" to mini dv, idvd, quicktime, etc. Tired directly dragging photos into iMovie, different export options from iPhoto, etc.
When I refer to picture quality issues, I am referring to the final output of the project from iMovie HD 6/iDVD to a DVD and to miniDV tape as viewed on a tv screen.
iMovie project for School's sports team. Photos shot with Nikon D80 10.2 MP digital SLR at the camera's full resolution. Project's photos imported from iPhoto to iMovie. The first section of game photos and titles are sharp - other photos of team bonding, etc. are very pixelated. Also, the titles' motion is jerky. I have found that getting "info" of the game action photos states the file size as 17.6 MB. That size is consistant on all the sharp photos. The team bonding photos only state 117kb in size from the "info" select. Also, today I tried importing the same game photos into iMovie that were sharp - they now only read at 117kb in size.
I am guessing at this point, the small file size is the cause of the very pixelated final output of the photos in the project. The questions are...
Is the pixelating of some of the photos due to the now small file size?
Why are the photos only entering iMovie in a small file size of 117kb?

Hi,
Thanks for your reply.
I am the one who took the picutres with the Nikon D80 10.2 MP Digital SLR, as mentioned in the original message and am fully aware of the photos' resolution.
I loaded the photos from the camera to two places - 1st place was a folder on the desktop - the 2nd was straight to iPhoto. I like iPhoto for its photo organization features. I shot jsut under two thousand photos for the season - narrowed that selection down to approx. 300 photos fo rthe entire project. The photos were shot at the camera's's max. resolution. The info of the images size is 3872 x 2592. As I had mentioned, I tried many options of imports / exports, etc. All the photos are from the same source. I created a new iMovie project - imported a batch of the photos that originally were sharp at the beginning of the project and were 17.6MB in file size. The result was the pixelated 117 kb "finished product" in the new iMovie project. I even "reimported" the same photos into the clip pane of the original iMovie project of sharp photos - they also only loaded as 117 kb sized files. All the photos in the project were initially import through the media window within iMovie, including the series of photos that were sharp in the project.
The photos can be opened with iPhoto, Photoshop, Preview, and others. All the images are razor sharp.
I can only deduce that there is a preference setting of some kind or other cause somewhere that at some point between importing the first series of photos to the middle set of photos has changed resulting in the small pixelated photos in the project.
I appreciate your imput thus far. I look forward to any other ideas you may have.

Part of photo is blurred (4s)

Look at top-right corner of these photos:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5020311/4s/Photo%2014.11.11%2C%2014%2041%2024.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5020311/4s/Photo%2014.11.11%2C%2014%2041%2032.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5020311/4s/Photo%2014.11.11%2C%2014%2042%2005.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5020311/4s/Photo%2014.11.11%2C%2014%2043%2007.jpg
I have a defected iphone?

And the most most demonstrative evidence:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5020311/4s/Photo%2018.11.11%2C%200%2052%2045.jpg
if you touch blurred left-bottom corner it will be sharp on photo, but top-right one will become blurred.

Part of photo attachments is grey

when i receive a photo attachment the most part of the photo is grey i am using 10.7.5.
Is there a way i can fix it?
thanx

And the most most demonstrative evidence:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5020311/4s/Photo%2018.11.11%2C%200%2052%2045.jpg
if you touch blurred left-bottom corner it will be sharp on photo, but top-right one will become blurred.

My daughter and I have iPhone 5, I update mine and my pictures are fuzzy, she did not update her phone and her camera is clear and sharp, why?

my camera use to take a beautiful sharp clear photo, since updating to iOS 8 my picture quality is poor, why has this happened? what can I do about it.

Roz53,
Thank you for your reply. The section that I included has a couple more steps than restarting the phone.
Camera isn't functioning or has undesired image quality
If the screen shows a closed lens or black image, force quit the Camera app.
If you do not see the Camera app on the Home screen, try searching for it in Spotlight. If the camera does not show up in the search, check to make sure that Restrictions are not turned on by tappingSettings > General > Restrictions.
Ensure the camera lens is clean and free from any obstructions. Use a microfiber polishing cloth to clean the lens.
Cases can interfere with the camera and the flash. Try gently cleaning the lens with a clean dry cloth or removing the case if you see image or color-quality issues with photos.
Try turning iPhone off and then back on.
Tap to focus the camera on the subject. The image may pulse or briefly go in and out of focus as it adjusts.
Try to remain steady while focusing:
Still images: Remain steady while taking the picture. If you move too far in any direction, the camera automatically refocuses to the center.
Note: If you take a picture with iPhone turned sideways, it is automatically saved in landscape orientation.
Video: Adjust focus before you begin recording. You can also tap to readjust focus while recording. Exiting the Camera application while recording will stop recording and will save the video to the Camera Roll.
Note: Video-recording features are not available on original iPhone or iPhone 3G.
If your iPhone has a front and rear camera, try switching between them to verify if the issue persists on both.
If you have gone through every step in that section, click on the link below to reach out to us.
Issue not resolved
My issue is still not resolved. What do I do next?
Contact Apple Support.
-Jason H.

Burning vs. loss of sharpness

When I make a project all photos in my slideshow are good. If I burn it I'll lose sharpness of photos. How to solve that problem?

Hi
A. DVD is as standard (no difference if You use iDVD or Roxio Toast™ or DVD Studio Pro) ONLY interlaced SD-Video and can never be any better.
B. iDVD has a 99 photo / SlideShow limit. I prefer to do mine in iMovie HD6 or FinalCut as they do not have any limit I know of. AND they can handle interlaced SD-Video so that 100% will be delivered to iDVD and to the DVD disk to be.
iMovie'08 to 11 - CAN NOT DO THIS they only delivers every second line - resulting in a severe quality loss.
If in iMovie HD6 - one use Share to iDVD and not use Ken Burns Effect there is a double disaster.
• the file rendered in iMovie and delivered to iDVD is severely pixilated = of no use = VERY BAD
• the original project in iMovie HD6 is harmed and all photos needs to be re-imported and re-edited.
So by just editing and then Save and then CLOSE iMovie and import into iDVD Quality will be 100% of what iDVD can do - and to me very GOOD
If You need better than this and need a disk - then You must reach for Blu-Ray and Roxio Toast™ can do this to standard DVDs (limited to max 20-30 min in HD quality) and if You got a BD-burner and BD-disks to several hours. THESE Disks can not be played on any standard DVD-player but on PlayStation 3.
Yours Bengt W

Addition of a 100% view feature to check sharpness

I really like the Bridge browser, however, it is missing one critical feature for my use - the addition of a toggle that will allow multiple pictures to be evaluated at 100% magnification to check sharpness. Photo Mechanic has a very nice implementation of this. Please add this and I will use Bridge for all imaging sorting and review immediately after shooting.
Thanks!
-Dave

David,
The post that was at the top of the forum before you posted your request was requesting the same feature.
IanLyons
Forum Host

Blurry Still Photos in PE 9 (Windows XP –SP3)

When I take sharp still photos, at any resolution and in any format (tif, jpg, psd), they look sharp on a standard def. TV from a burned DVD with a Project Setting of NTSC-DV – Standard (4:3) ONLY. Using NTSC-DV – Wide Screen or NTSC – Hard Disk, Flash Memory Camcorder Standard or Wide-Screen, the stills are slightly, but definitely, blurry. Not a problem if I just want a DVD of stills, but a problem combining video (my camcorder is memory card, std. def., wide-screen) with stills. The video looks nice and sharp. Any suggestions? Thank you

Hi all. I want to thank each of you for taking the time to continue to help me. I really appreciate your efforts.
To minimize duplicate responses, I am pointing each of you to this response. I hope I address all of your comments.
First, I am viewing the photos on a 2 NTSC TV’s. One is a traditional CRT picture tube, the other is a rear projection from individual color CRT’s. I will be checking them out on a state-of-the-art LED-LCD in a few days. Simply, when I set the Project Setting to NTSC-DV Standard Definition 4:3 (meaning full screen 640x480) the stills look quite good.
The problem occurs when I use the Project Settings listed as NTSC-Hard Drive Camcorder, etc. (meaning mpg coming into PE9 like via a card based camcorder (mine is std def)) Wide-Screen 16:9 with input set by PE9 as 720x480. The still photos are recomposed with black bands on each side (either by me manually in PS9 or by PE9 automatically – no difference in image projection). I want to use this setting since I want to combine widescreen video with 3:2 still images in the same project. These are distinctly blurry, but not horrendously so. (I know, not a very scientific/objective description)
And, while I agree with comments made regarding down-rezing, my actual tests showed the best results from a large 3000+ x 2000+ pixel tif file than from any other size and format (I have tried many combinations). In fact, 480 pixel (height) jpg looked to me just slightly better than 480 (height) psd, which made no sense given that psd is supposed to be lossless and jpg is lossy (although I used the least compression available).
Re. interlacing, I did freeze frame and there was a slightly better image displayed, but not as good as the full screen not frozen. I have not yet tried what I would normally consider excessive sharpening to compensate for the still image problem. However, this is still troubling given that full screen looked good.
I am gong to continue to test as time permits, but I wonder if there are 2 compounding problems. First, NTSC TV has 1440 lines of scan, exactly, 3 times 480 pixels, whereas, based on my calculations, 16:9 widescreen letterbox does not yield the number of scan lines an integral multiple of 480. Second, PE9 lists widescreen as 720x480, yet if I take a pixel height of 480, 16:9 should yield a width of 853. While I understand CRT TV’s cut off part of the picture, that oversized width from 720 seems a bit high. (I also know that some number of scan lines are not used in the image, but don’t remember whether these are within the 1440 or in addition to.)
Ted, you mentioned that the stills should be multiples of 640x480 up to 1920x1440. Why not 1920x1080 which gives the 16:9 widescreen format? I have not tried these numbers yet, but will when I get back home.
One last complication is that a project setting of NTSC-Hard Drive, full screen 4:3, was also blurry. I would be willing to believe there is a problem with PE9’s resizing calculations or an issue with using the “right” pixel resolution for widescreen if all full screen settings looked good and only wide screen looked poor.
I know that’s a lot to digest, but better more info than less. And, again, thank you very much for your help.

Nikon 24-70 Lens Pricing

Nikon Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Telephoto Lens for Nikon DX and FX SLR Cameras
Model: 2164 | SKU: 9336284
Capture sharp digital photos from a distance with this telephoto lens that compensates for chromatic aberrations and reduces ghosting and flair for clear, detailed images.
5 Read reviews (1)
Sale: $2269.99
Hello, I have been looking into purchasing a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens and was considering the purchase (order online or from the store) from Best Buy. However, the price at Best Buy is $2270 and $1700-$1900 everywhere else and without tax if you purchase from the big NY camera shops.
I understand that BB needs to have some overhead built in because of their corporate structure. A good example is the pricing difference between BB and those same NY online stores for the Nikon 70-200 VR2. Best Buy has it for $2400 and they have it for $2160. Thats about a 10% over price. The 24-70 is about a 25% over price.
Is it possible that the 24-70 Nikon price is a miss print? I'd like to take advantage of the 18 month financing at BB but not at a $470+ penalty.
Thanks!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi
UnChained,
After
reading your initial post I also thought it was a bit strange that we were
selling this lens above MSRP. Because of this I have sent an email to the
appropriate business team here at our corporate headquarters asking them if the
price we have this lens listed at is correct. As soon as I hear back from them
I will post back to this thread.
Thanks for
posting,
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

First impressions of the 3.0 update from a 1st gen iPhone user

MIne is a 1st gen iPhone purchased opening day 2 years ago and I had a brief period of non working stocks and weather apps that are now fine (apparently an issue that was widespread today across the diff iPhones). After that everything is business as usual. I did reset my settings after the install and restore my iphone with a current back up as a precaution and so far works great.
First impressions: The camera is a little snappier and sharper in photo taking.
Copy and paste: RAD!!!
Voice memos: Can send instantly via e-mail MY LADY LIKES....KINDA KINKY!!!
Find my phone: Would be cooler with GPS the 1st gen won't help you find exactly where it is.
Spotlight: very functional and useful for a phone packed with stuff...like mine.
Landscape keyboard: nice but should have been there 1st time out.
Overall it's the kind of update that a moderately smart user that can RTFM will install and enjoy. If you are an idiot who tries to install it from a buddies computer or likes to unplug things in midstream you won't like it, because your phone will be useless until you do it properly and follow the simple steps.

hi,
we were trying an export from one database to another- and ran into problems- portal created a package under the portal30 schema (dbms_lob- a copy of which originally exists under the sys schema) that was previously not there.
so we decided to uninstall the portal and the sso schemas. we carried out this step:
1) Drop the Portal, SSO, and their respective _public DB users cascade.
but the portal30 schema will not allow us to drop the dbms_lob package that it created (which incidentally compiles with an invalid package body)
it continues to give the following error message:
ORA-00600: internal error code, arguments: [16201], [], [], [], [], [], [], []
is there any way to complete the unistallation of portal without unistalling the entire database?
thanks for any help.
sharadha
null

Pictures in Imovie

I know this is a somewhat tired question; I'm trying to make slide shows using pictures from iphoto. I'm positive that the photos are a large size etc.
There's a relatively large loss of quality once brought to imovie.
I'm hesitant to use the newer imovie, though the pics seem clearer, because I lose all of the bells and whistles of the gee three transitions. I'd be going from hundreds of transitions to around 15.
Any advice??

iMovie playback view is low resolution, only intended to be an aid in editing your movie. You cannot judge quality until you view the final burned product, or Disk Image. Aside from that, iMovie's DV standard is 680 x 440, and so you never will get as sharp a photo as in iPhoto.

Can't Burn WMV file created by Premier Elements 8

I organized a slideshow in Photoshop Elements 8 which then opened Adobe Premier 8. Adobe Premier 8 created a .WMV file of slide show. I have tried to burn the .WMV file using Ashampoo Burning 8. Ashampoo runs but in the end annouces DVD burn has failed. I can burn a CD so I dont think its Plextor drive. Ashampoo tech seems to be of no help. Am wondering if anyone else has trouble burning WMV files of slideshows?

Thanks again.
I did as you suggested and I'm basically back to where I started.
I outputted a Pr8 slideshow to PrE. I then burned the slideshow onto a DVD using the "share" function at PrE.
It is incredibly slow -- takes about 3 hours -- but it did burn the DVD. I did this before on earlier versions of Elements (Pr6, I think), and now I remember why I stopped doing it.
The resulting DVD is not acceptable. Two main problems.
First, instead of smooth, continuous panning and zooming, every single slide, after the fade transition, is still, and then it jerks into panning and zooming.
Second, the overall quality is not so great. Lots of shimmer/jiggle during the panning and zooming, and a lot of general mushiness. Text I've inserted onto slides often has really mushy edges. I've completely given up trying to use a shadow color behind text because even though it looks good in the preview when I'm making the slideshow, on screen using the DVD, it just compounds the problem of the mushiness.
We have a brand new, high-end HP computer with Windows 7 with all programs and drivers fully updated, so I don't think there is a problem outside Adobe.
Because PrE generated DVDs that weren't so good (sorry) , I started saving the Pr8 slideshows as .wmv files and then trying to use Roxio to burn the .wmv file onto a DVD using its encoding. Roxio generated one DVD that way that worked very well: much sharper quality photos and text and smooth, continuous panning and zooming, but then Roxio started generating error messages at the end of the DVD-creation process and Roxio tech support tells me it is an unsolvable problem, so they're refunding my money.
I prefer Adobe anyway and only tried Roxio because of the problems with Adobe DVDs mentioned above.
So, is there any other way I can go about this within Adobe that will help solve the pan-zoom and mushiness problems?
I really appreciate your help. It takes me many hours to create these slideshows of family vacations and it's very frustrating to then end up not being able to generate the end product - a quality DVD - at the end.
Harlan Jones

Why are my photos not as sharp when I import them into Facebook from the Aperture Projects file, compared to when I 'share' them with Facebook within the Aperture programme? There is a noticeable difference and has been spoiling my photos for some time.

Hi all, I take wildlife photos (mostly birds) as a hobby, and have become frustrated with the quality of my photos recently when shared online, particularly Facebook.
I started blaming my camera ( a Canon 7D) as I changed it a few months ago from a Canon 550D, and I soon noticed that the images were not as good. Then I realised it was when I started using Aperture.
I started by using the 'share' option within Aperture but I soon realised that then I have no control over the creation of an album, and the photos start appearing on facebook before I have finished uploading them and given them captions. Plus if I subsequently move them or export them to my back up drive then they disappear from Facebook!
So I started creating albums within Facebook and then importing the photos from the aperture projects file on my computer. Because they are imported I can then delete or move the aperture file and the photos stay on facebook. Otherwise my macbook was becoming completely full.
However to test my theory I have today uploaded the same photo edited in Aperture stored in the same projects folder using the two different methods described above, and there is a very distinct difference between the quality of the two images. The shared ones are very much sharper than the imported ones.
I am a computer novice and don't know how to check what the quality settings are, or how to adjust anything to improve the way the photos go into facebook. I do have a manual but I just cant understand it :-(
I have tried a free sample of Lightroom 5 and my photos look amazing, there is such a difference, but I don't want to give up with Aperture unless the problem really can't be solved.
Sorry for such a long first post, I would be very very grateful for any help you can give me!
Regards
Susan

Generally I would not use Facebook for sharing any photos, it compresses the photos substantially, and when you have shadows and dark colours you get visible "bands" where there should be subtle gradients, ie at sunsets and sunrises.
It sounds like you are using two methods to upload to Facebook:
1. Sharing from within Aperture, which basically syncs Facebook with your Aperture album, so any changes made at either end gets synced, hence the deletions from Albums, although the original file should still be in your library, just removed rom the album. It is like a playlist in iTunes.
2. Exporting pics and uploading to Facebook from the browser.
I am not sure how method 1 gets compressed, but I know that uploading hi-res jpegs to Facebook using method 2 results in poor quality images.
I wouldn't even bother comparing option 1 or 2, and they will both be poor images once you view them on Facebook, as opposed to viewing uploaded images on proper image sharing / hosting sites.
Your problem is not with Aperture, it is using Facebook for showing your work.
If you export pics form Aperture at high res jpegs or TIFFs your images will be fine.
If you insist to use Facebook as your way to share your work, then your workflow should be this:
1. Right click images you want to share.
2. Select Export version.
3. Export as 100% size and ensure the export settings are set at 100% quality.
4. Upload this pic into Facebook.
This will get you the best image size and resolution on Facebook.
See how you go.

Sharpness of photos

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for