Shooting at higher shutter speed for added benefit of stills with RED

The RED Scarlet is renowned for its ability to capture still frames from the video stream. This is great in a photoshoot where you can dial in 1/200th sec shutter, but being a video shooter I can't make use of this great feature as I'll be shooting at 1/50th of a second to emulate a 180 degree shutter angle.
I mainly shoot music videos, where my clients are keen on as many stills as possible during the production process. I figured that it would be theoretically possible to light the scene a little more and speed up the shutter to somewhere in the region of 1/125th sec in order to get less motion blur in the still frames.
Would it then be possible to artificially induce some motion blur in order to emulate a 1/50th sec shutter in Premiere? Is this more hassle than its worth for the payoff of added stills? As the frames are also crisper it becomes easier to slow down the footage in After Efficts with the help of Twixtor or something similar,This would be a big bonus!
Thanks,
Ross

If it were me, I'd just hire a photographer.

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Suggestion - 5D3 minimum shutter speed for auto ISO

Hi, I would like to make a suggestion to Canon on the 5D3 camera, with regard to the minimum shutter speed for auto ISO. Currently I find that most of the selectable shutter speeds are on the low side (mostly below 1/125), and this may not be useful for handheld photography, or for fast moving subjects. I would like to suggest the following:
- More minimum shutter speed settings faster than 1/125 including in-between speeds e.g. 1/160 (between 1/125 and 1/250)
- Automatic shutter speed based on a multiple of lens focal length e.g. 2x lens focal length (for both prime and zoom lenses)
I hope that Canon can come up with an updated firmware that does this. Thanks.

Good idea, you can add it to the thread "Firmware Update Wishlist", and "Canon dSLR Wish List?" because a proper, configurable, flexible auto ISO is much needed and would beneficiate all cameras, not only 5D3.
I am not sure what Magic Lantern can give you on that issue, but you can take a look at their page.
Now, as a short term solution, on 1D4 I have put the cfns for 'shutter speed range' and 'iso speed range' in MyMenu, and when I need I change the max ISO (usually 1600) and a min shutter seepd (depends on lens and subject) on the fly. Not very practical (many button push needed), but it works.
I hope that helps
Alain

Slow-motion (high shutter speed) camera to video my golf swing with 240fps

What is the best model to choose? Would also like a shutter speed of at least 1/2000. I had a Canon SD4000IS that did the trick but was lost (don't ask how!).

Wali,
Some of our current models have the Slow Motion Movie mode that allows a 320 x 240 resolution video to be shot in super slow motion at 240 fps. Based on this requirement and the shutter speed requirement, I have put together a list of models that will work for you.
PowerShot G15
PowerShot S110
PowerShot S100
PowerShot SX50 HS
PowerShot SX40 HS
PowerShot SX260 HS
PowerShot SX230 HS
ELPH 530 HS
ELPH 520 HS
ELPH 510 HS
ELPH 500 HS
ELPH 320 HS
ELPH 310 HS
ELPH 300 HS
If this is a time sensitive-matter, additional support options are available at Contact Us.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Set manual shutter speed for long exposure photographs

To my suprise, i can not manually set the shutterspeed of the camera (a big disapoinment from iphone which can do this and i had before) i want to photograph waterfalls and create dreamy scenes.
4.3 did not fix this, anyone know if 4.4 update will adress this?
Is the problem with Sony or Android, since there are NO apps on google play that support long exposure in full resolution.
Anyone?

While we get an answer, perhaps understanding shutter speed will be a good idea for those who doesn't know how it works
http://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-shutter-speed
http://layrsapp.wordpress.com/2013/08/29/techniques-of-shutter-speed-and-aperture-control-dlsr-vs-a-...
"I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

Setting shutter speed to 1/2000 for concert photos.

Hi -
I've been unable to figure out how to get a static 1/2000 shutter speed for concert photos, so that I can capture high quality photos while people are in motion on the PowerShot A2500. If I am unable to set it to a static 1/2000, please let me know the settings I should have it at so that it will automatically adjust it to 1/2000 or at least something higher than say 1/200, since speeds lower than that are blurry.
Thanks a lot!

Basically (from what I read in the specs) you CAN'T. That camera looks to be marketed for simple point & shoot use. You need one that offers MANUAL control over the primary functions such as Tv or Av (Time Value AKA shutter speed or Aperture). Like it or not you are trying to capture decent results under very difficult conditions with the wrong tool.
It can shoot at 1/2000 but it won't unless it's a VERY bright scene. The most you can do is select the highest ISO it allows & live with the noisy images.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Camera issue - stretch marks - Z1 in M mode, 8MP, iso 800-3200, indoor, hi-shutter speed

I tried to read some pages of the forum, but cannot find the similar issues. I am quite surprised if this issue isn't discovered since 6 months. (or it is common not a problem? please correct me.)
As mentioned in captioned, when in high iso and high shutter speed, there are serious stretch marks. The higher the more visible. Please refer to the photos below:
Photo 1: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/1600s, ISO-3200, in side a restaurant with no window
Photo 2: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/500s, ISO-3200, in side a restaurant with no window
Photo 3: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/125s, ISO-100, in my office at night
Photo 4: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/1000s, ISO-800, in my office at night
Photo 5: M mode, 8M pixel, f/2, 1/2000s, ISO-1600, in my office at night
From the Photos above, it is shown that my Z1 cannot take any photo properly INDOOR. When the light is stronger enough (in office/ factory/ laboratory), there are stretch marks even in ISO-100!
I had tried several Z1(s), from my collegues, friend, retail shop and even the display model in Sony's Customer Service Centre (Hong Kong), they all have this problem. The staff of Sony's Centre told me that all the Z1 have this problem and therefore they cannot replace / help.
I had tried with other cell phone / digital camera / DSLR, they do not have this problem. This is not common.
It is believed that Sony is professional in digital camera technology (refer to A7, A7R), and the 20M pixel DC quality camera is the selling point of Z1 and may be Z2. There should be an solution for this issue.

Hi, I had took some photos from my 7-year-old Fuji F100fd and 4-year-old Google Nexus One under same light source for comparison:
Photo Z1-1: Xperia Z1, ISO-400 , f/2, 1/160s, 8MP
Photo Z1-2: Xperia Z1, ISO-1600 , f/2, 1/640s, 8MP
Photo FJ-1: Fujifilm F100fd, ISO-400, f/3.3, 1/52s, 12MP
Photo FJ-2: Fujifilm F100fd, ISO-3200, f/3.3, 1/400s, 12MP
Photo FJ-3: Fujifilm F100fd, ISO-6400, f/3.3, 1/850s, 3MP
Photo N1-1: Google Nexus One, ISO-100, 5MP (No info provided in Exif)
Photo N1-2: Google Nexus One, ISO-1250, 5MP (No info provided in Exif)
From photos FJ-1 to FJ-3 by Fuji DC, no matter how high ISO and fast shutter speed, there is no stretch line in photo by Fuji DC. There means it is technically feasible to fix the stretch line problem.
From photos N1-1 to N1-2 by Google Nexus One, there are stretch lines only when ISO-1250 but very light and colourless. It seems more acceptable.
From photos Z1-1 to Z1-2 by Xperia Z1, stretch lines appear from ISO-200 to ISO-3200 and they are bold, dark and colour like stain. It is certainly unacceptable...
I hope I can get a solution on this issue. I wonder if other Z1 owners got the same problem?

Shutter speed verses sharpness: Canon 6d @300mm no IS.

I recently sent my camera back to Canon for recalibration after I noticed all of my telephoto shots seems to be fuzzy after cropping. The results came back and they basically found nothing wrong with the camera or lens..
My question is based on the results below is there a shutter speed for taking telephoto shots where the sharpness falls off due to internal vibration of some sort?
I am also at a loss as to why mirror lockup ,(with MF) would not be the same as a shot using live view with AF.
Is there shutter movement that occurs during mirror lockup using eyeview that does not occur using LiveView AF?
(I have not performed this test at higher shutter speeds due to internal lighting issues)
I performed these tests using the following fixed points:
RAW mode
focal length 300
Fstop 5.6
ISO 200
Shutter speed 1/60
No IS enabled
Camera mounted.
All shots were taken with 10 second shutter delay
Calibration target area is dead center of focus area.
Here are the tests I performed:
1.LiveView AF mode: sharp as a tack consistently
2.LiveView Quickmode: slightly less sharp but still extremely good
3.EyeView Miror Lockup,(switched to MF after allowing LiveView AF mode to find focus)
4.EyeView No MirrorLock,(switched to MF after allowing LiveView AF mode to find focus)
1.LiveView AF mode
2.LiveView Quickmode
3. Eyeview Mirror lockup
4.Eyeview NO Mirror lock
Solved!
Go to Solution.

1/60 second is usually too slow with a 300mm lens. Even with IS, which the Exif data say you're not using, it would be problematical.
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

Old 430EX won't sync with 5Diii when used off camera, if shutter speed is over 200.

I am using a cowboy studio transmitter & receiver. Manuals for the 430 & 5d both indicate highspeed sync will work with higher shutter speed. 430 is set to highspeed sync.

The Cowboy Studios won't allow HSS. I'm not sure what model you're using, but knowing Cowboy Studios I'm guessing it's full manual only. The Yongnuo 622 triggers will allow HSS.
Again, I don't know the specifics of your trigger. But Yongnuo manual triggers (602, 603) will still trigger if you go above max sync speed, you'll just get banding due to the falling shutter.
Keep in mind that HSS significantly reduces the amount of power out of a flash. And since it's effectively a continuous light at that point, the faster the shutter speed the less the flash can contribute to the exposure. I'm not sure what speeds you're using, but if you're up in the 1/1000+ range the power output will be quite small.

Correcting fast shutter speed in FCP

Hello,
I am trying to edit footage that was shot with a Sony Z1. The footage was accidently shot at a high shutter speed >1000. The footage is of snow falling, so it ends up being REALLY strobed. Does anyone know a good way to correct or minimize the strobing effect of footage in FCP using filters, settings, etc? I have tried playing around with the motion blur tab, but the footage ends up looking bad. - Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Powermac 2.7 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

I wonder if this would help...
http://www.revisionfx.com/mblur.htm

808 Shutter Speed/Time Control?

Is there a way to control the amount of shutter speed/time while taking a photo with the 808?
I would like to do long exposures and also force the camera not to drop beneath certain shutter speeds while shooting.
White 808 Pureview NAM
Black N8 NAM
Silver N95-3 NAM

wrender wrote:
Is there a way to control the amount of shutter speed/time while taking a photo with the 808?
According to Damian Dinning "You can’t set specific shutter speeds. You can influence the speeds using the ND filter and ISO controls. Using manual ISO allows shutter speeds longer than 1/8 to be used. Limit drops to 2.7 seconds. In night mode shutter speed limit is also 2.7 seconds".
Happy to have helped forum with a Support Ratio = 42.5

Canon SX600 HS How do i change the shutter speed? Thanks

I need to change the shutter speed but manual is confusing
Solved!
Go to Solution.

If you need to change the shutter speed for a long exposure shot, you will need to be in the specific scene mode of the camera and choose the Long shutter mode. Then you can select a shutter speed. You cannot choose a shutter speed in other modes with that camera.
Steve M.

What equipment to rent for a cruise to Alsaka, with a trip to Katmai National Park

We are planning a cruisetour to Alaska in the summer of 2014. I was wondering what equipment would be best to rent for the trip. I am at best a total amature when it comes to photography. We will on on shio for seven days, then going to Danali National Park, and also to Katmai National Park. Any and all help with this is greatly appreciated. Thanks. George
Solved!
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Alaska is a target rich State to shoot some really breathtaking shots. But, you do have to be careful. YOU will not be at the top of the food chain. That place is firmly secured by the Polar Bear. You don't want to get close to these guys. If you go looking for bears, take as long a lens you can get. The absolute minimum would be a 100-400mm zoom. Alaska, is also home of some really big grizzly bears, these guys are no slouch either. For the beautiful panaramas you may want to invest in a ultra wide angle lens, like the EF-S-10-22mm. It does not have IS, but you can get some stunning wide angle shots from from the trusty tripod. Also, the 10-22 gets rave reviews of image quality from some of the major reviewers, Ken Rockwell, give it a "L" quality review. I wouldn't spend any extra money on a EF 70-200 f2.8L IS USM. It is a large heavy lens. But I would opt for the EF 70-200 f4L IS USM, it is much lighter, and has good IS, and will be easy to sling around on those eagles. You fail to mention what lenses you now have, but a good mid range telephoto would be good to have for the trip. Shots taken from the cruise ship should be hand held, because of the vibration of the ship will pass through to the tripod. So, any lens you shoot with from the ship should have IS, if not you may have to up your ISO to 1000 or more, and shoot at a high shutter speed, to keep out blur of movement. For that mid range telephoto you may want to look at either the EF 24-105 f4L IS USM, or the EF 24-70 f4L IS USM, both are Canon L quality lenses, and reasonably priced. Those lenses I have suggested will fill all your needs for your trip, with the sharpest quality lenses for your camera. I would suggest you purchase a refurbished 7D to upgrade your camera body. The 7D is the best wildlife camera available now. You can get one from Adorama, now on a refurbished special from Canon. You can also buy the lenses refurbished from Adorama, and B&H, and even used from KEH and save a good amount of money.
Enjoy your trip.

Best frame rate , resolution and shutter speed Canon XF 305 for chromakeying

Hi,
I have to shoot some footage with the Canon XF305 (green screen Chromakeying) And the only progressive frame rates I can choose are ( 25P 1920x1080) or (50Pand 25P 1280x720).
What shutter speed do I have to use?
What will be the best quality choice for keying?! The output will be Vimeo at the end. I have a Xenon 6core 3.2, Memory 24 GIG, GTX580.
Of course I know the best resolution, but I mean the best choices for keying.
It's done in PAL.
Thanks David

A high suhutter speed is improtant for crisp edges, especially if your codec is not frame-based, because your subjects will have little or no motion blur. 125th seocnd at least. faster if you can get it. Requires lots of light. You must not trade off depth of field because focus is critical to good keys, too, and you must not add gain because noise will degrade your key.
bogiesan

Shoot in high speed and slow down in FCP

Hi All
I’m planning to shoot footage HD that I would like to slow down almost 20% but I’ll rather avoid the jitter that usually shows on the video. I understood that I have to shoot in high speed. Do you have any suggestion of how to do this…
I was thinking to change the shutter speed of my camera but I’m not sure how much I have to change it.
I’m shooting with a Sony FX1
Best and thank you for the help
Lina

To shoot at a 'high speed', you need a camera such as the Varicam that will record at higher frame rate than 30fps. I believe the HVX-200 will allow you to overcrank things a bit (60p).
Otherwise, something like Shake will do a much better job slowing footage than FCP.
Good luck.

Iso, Shutter Speed, Aperture, White balance for music videos or film?

Hello everyone. I just started making music videos. I just want some tips or can someone direct me to a good guide for music videos. I know the basics of iso, shutter speed, and aperture already. I read some guides and so far I know I gotta put my shutter at 1/50 or if i'm recording something at high speed, i increase it. is it so? Also, I always put my aperture at the lowest. I have a Canon T2i and Canon lenses 50 f/1.8 and kit lens. I always put my aperture at the lowest 3.5(kit lens) or 1.8. The tricky part is the ISO. I don't know where to put my ISO. I know the lowest ISO is good but sometimes the video looks dark. Do I fix this in video editing programs? Like should I always stay at ISO 100? What about white balance? I use Final Cut 7.
Also, what about during the day and night? Indoors? etc I also have a cheap LED lights.

your questions are about the very basics of photography.
I would consider to buy a book, which explains photography 'from the ground' ("... for dummies.." not meant as an offence!)
in short:
a scenery offers a defined amount of light.
Your cameras 'film' aka sensor, needs a defined amount of light to deliver a picture.
So, on recoprding, you have to control the amount of light, and the controls are:
aperture - opened or closed
shutter - shorter or longer
speed (ISO) - higher or lower.
Imagine the light as a stream of tiny balls, coming from your scenery: a bigger hole = aperture lets more balls into the cam. A shorter shutter speed reduces the amount of balls. And a higher ISO catches more balls than a lower. ..
Understanding that, you realize that those parameters are crosswise-related: an open aperture + a shorter shutter speed results in the same amount of light on the sensor as a closed aperture and a longer shutter speed.
If the amount of light is still too much, lower the sensitivity = ISO.
If the amount of light is too little, open the aperture, or use a longer shutter speed or raise the sensitivity.
When you set one or two parameters in this equation, you have to adjust the other ones: Video-makers start with the shutter speed, usually set to 1/2 of frame-rate = 1/50 - 1/60 - why? Because it allows a nice looking 'smear' aka motion-blur aka 'film look'.
Now, with a given speed, you can conrtol teh amount of light for the sensor only by aparture; and when you reach limits, by setting ISO.
When you understood this BY PRACTICING, you're next step is the concept of 'shallow focus'/depth of field. And when you understood this BY PRACTICING, you'll will understand the need of Neutral Densitity Filters for movie-makers...
But first things first: buy a book; read your cam's amnual; practice the settings and watch carefully the different results, diff. settings result.
... and it's really just about basics - independently of your device and/or your software.
None of the things mentioned above can be done or 'fixed' in post... (basically...)
happy movie making!

Shooting at higher shutter speed for added benefit of stills with RED

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