Shooting Digital Camera Tethered

I am a photographer and need to shoot occassionally tethered to the computer via firewire cable. My main camera is a Kodak DCS 760 which was discontinued 3 years ago. I was in deep shock when I received my new MacBook Pro and discovered that the computer would not connect to the camera.
The host driver for shooting tethered is called Camera Manager. The last time the driver was updated was 4 years ago. Hoping for a solution I installed Parallels Desktop, Window's XP and the Window's version of Camera Manager. My thinking was that the Window's version was written to run on the Intel chip. That too was a no go.
Because Kodak no longer sells professional level digital cameras they have no plans for future driver updates. I am looking for options short of dumping the Kodak cameras for new Nikons or Canons. Anyone have any ideas?
Can anyone out there update Camera Manager for me? It should be possible. Even iPhoto can detect the camera and download files via the firewire cable. It just won't let me shoot tethered so that the images pop up on the monitor as I shoot. Aperture supports tethered shooting but only through a host software such as Camera Manager. Lightroom? Does not support Kodak cameras.
My wife wishes to thank you in advance for your assistance. She is not looking forward to me spending the family fortune updating my cameras.
TC

You were in deep shock when you discovered that a new
computer produced by Apple didn't support third-party
software that hasn't been updated or supported for
four years because the third-party left that
particular market?
Yep, I was deeply shocked. Had I known of the issue there is no doubt that I would have opted for a new camera and a used Powerbook. I would have postponed the purchase of the MacBook Pro until mid-2007. No sour grapes though. I am sure that I am going to love my MacBook Pro with the new camera!
Thanks for the link to the DP Review forum.
TC

Similar Messages

Digital Cameras that have Native QT Mode for Movies

Hello everyone, some advice please. I'm looking for a point and shoot digital camera that has:
1. An optical viewfinder, ie. Canon or Kodak as far as I can tell
2. Good quality lens, i.e. Canon & Sony for instance
3. Image stabilizer system Canon for instance
4. Native mode QT videos i.e. Samsung & Nikon as far as I can tell
5. low noise at high ISO settngs i.e. Canon but not Panasonic.
Can't seem to find all 5 in the same camera. Does anybody have experience with the same issues? Partial comaptability with QT as in with the most popular AVI file formats, seems to bother a lot of people.
Willing to comprmise on QT compatability if I have too, but obviously since I'm posting on a QT forum, QT is important to me. Would love to hear from anyone who has seen the same issues before (pun intended).
Thanks
iMac 20" Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Thank you--very helpful. It might be helpful to someone else who doesn't yet have a digital camera: After playing around with Iphoto using emailed to me pictures, I thought I'd try seeing how someone else's digital camera worked with my imac. I asked a friend to bring her two Nikon digital cameras and her usb cable when she came to visit. When we plugged both ends of the cable in, we couldn't get the pictures uploaded. Her Nikon manual said to push the OK button on her camera to do this. Nothing happened. Then I saw her manual said she needed to use something called Picture Project on her Windows computer, which she then said came on a cd when she bought the camera. Figuring that maybe Nikon might have this "driver" on a web site, in mac format (like hp print drivers), I found this code and downloaded it. Again by pressing the ok button on her camera, nothing happened. So I checked around the Nikon web site, and with some computers, one must click the Transfer button from the computer to pull in the pictures (rather than push then in via the camera's ok button). Still nothing happened. When I went to Picture Project's Preferences and deselected Auto Start (from the camera, I believe), and then selected Transfer, wala, all of her pictures, transferred. Hopefully, this helps someone.
Now my mac is set up for friends visiting, with their Nikon cameras, and I am learning more about what I want in a camera.

Getting digital cam images into the iPad when shooting with a non-SD card.

Just thought I'd let people know, I was able to get my really inexpensive Targus USB 2.0 media adapter to connect to the USB camera adapter on my iPad. This allows me to import photos from my Olympus Evolt digital camera that uses an XD or Compact Flash card. Also worked with our two other small digital point and shoot cameras that use non-SD cards. It also lets me use my Micro SD card from my Samsung Moment cell phone.

Hello strmchsr,
Thank you for sharing your issue with the community. We certainly want to resolve this as quickly as possible. I understand you must be frustrated. I would like to ask you a couple of questions to better understand your concerns.
What specific error message are you receiving on the iPad?
Have you been able to connect the Mifi 2200 to another device such as a laptop or computer?
If so what were the results? If not I have included some troubleshooting steps below.
I recommend trying to activate the Mifi 2200 on a windows based pc using the usb cable that came with the device. http://vzam.net/
The recommendation to remove the battery while the device is powered on is a great option, as ttb_62 suggested.
As a final option you can perform a hard reset provided that you have the original sticker from the Mifi 2200, which will include default password and the MEID number. I have included a link below to assist you.
Hard Reset:
http://support.verizonwireless.com/clc/devices/knowledge_base.html?id=23749
Once you have tried these steps please retest your data service for functionality. If the issues persist please advise us and we will provide additional assistance.
Sincerely,
JonathanK_VZW
VZW Support
Follow Us on Twitter@VZWSupport

Tethered Shooting issue: Camera Control Bar disappears

When I start to shoot with the tethered capture bar, the bar disappears after 1-2 shots.
It's not hidden - there's slight "artifacts" left on-screen.
Example:
Before starting to shot tethered - see the bar properly displayed
Here's the problem - after taking a tethered shot, the bar disappears,except for the black square to the right of the menu bar (above the top right corner of the photo). That black square is actually the animated progress indicator that spins when processing a new photo.
When I pass the cursor over the black square, or over a few other completely hidden areas, the cursor changes to a hand to reposition the tether bar, it's just not visible.
Control-T (hide/show tethered capture window) does not help.
Stopping & restarting tethered capture makes it visible again, until I take a photo.
Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-bit quad-core 2.5G Athlon system with 8G memory. Canon Rebel XTi

I have the exact same problem using Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-bit dual-core system with 4G memory on an Acer laptop running Lightroom 4.2
Any help is appreciated.

Does Lightroom support camera tethering?

I looked through the forum and could not find this.
Does Lightroom allow digital camera capture by tethering the camera to a computer like Camera Control Pro for Nikon's and Kodaks Camera Manager?
If it does, this most likely will be our new and great workflow. Currently when using both Nikons and Kodaks we have to use four (or more) separate software programs to capture the image, adjust the image (if necessary) crop & retouch the image, and upload it to our laboratory.
Looking for the vida loca.

If it matters, we too would like to see tethering improved, especially for Nikons.
Nikon has stopped supporting their Capture (V 4.x) software. Capture wasn't the greatest package but it served a purpose as the front line, 'real time' camera to screen program. Capture does not support the newest NEFs found in the D80, (and others?)! The replacement, Capture NX, does not support tethered shooting or browsing for that matter. NX has some interesting ideas but no tethering, no browser, it is useless to us? Nikon's new Camera Control Pro downloads the pics from the camera to the computer but leaves them there... no further processing.
We are forced to find another solution. There are not too many to choose from besides LR. Capture Pro is pretty dear, Bibble's capture, while slick, directly from camera to browser, it is not too stable or reliable! Sorry guys but we can not be rebooting / making excuses while the customer is waiting. I haven't found anything else for a Nikon.
Our business really needs good tethering as we usually shoot with the customer in the studio expecting to take home some prints. Besides 'real time' viewing, which is a real plus with the customers, tethering also eliminates the steps, and time needed to stop shooting and download images to the computer. It also makes for a real smooth two person operation.
So, I (we), hope the LR crew is working on a direct import for all raw formats. The LR tethering could use a speed boost. Just eliminating the third party capture software and extra file move would be a big help.
Net & Den
Netties Petties LLC

In search of a good digital camera/video recorder

Hello everyone! I'm new here & I need some advice. I'm looking for a good digital camera/video recorder for mostly family pics & videos. I also need some feature that's good for actions shots. My daughter is a competitive swimmer & we always take pics & videos at her swimming events. I like to post the videos of her events on FB for friends & family who were unable to attend. I want something very user friendly, easy to download on my computer but fairly compact so I can put it in a pocket that's in the $150 - $200 range. Any suggestions would be much appreciated .

Hi jbutcher,
To be honest no point-and-shoot camera will completely
meet your needs, and if you really want a camera that meets all your needs
(other than being compact) you would need to invest in a DSLR.
With that said I would look the reviews on each camera in
your price range on BestBuy.com first, and you should also be able to get some
good advice from a Digital Imaging expert in one of our stores.
With Point-and-Shoot cameras I tend to like Canon models
the best, and we do have the Canon SD1400 on sale right now for $199.99. You
could also look at the Sony H55, or the Nikon S6000 (both are currently selling
for less than $200, and should meet most of your expectations).
I hope this helps!
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Can't Import large .avi file from digital camera into iPhoto 08

I have a digital camera with a 4GB SD card. I was shooting video and have several small .avi files on the card and one large .avi file (2.67 GB) on the same card. I did not have a problem importing the small files. iPhoto hung while trying to import the large file. I read in this forum that I should use Image Capture, which I tried. When I used Image Capture on the smaller files (just to see how it worked), my camera would flash while it was transferring. When I tried Image Capture on the large file, the camera did not flash and after about 20 minutes, there didn't seem to be anything going on with the transfer. I also tried an old card reader through Image Capture, and that didn't work either. Should Image Capture be able to handle this size file? Do you know of any way to break up the large file into smaller files on the SD card? What am I missing? Thanks!

Canon's cameras do not mount on the Desktop. It's a 'feature' of the brand.
There are several possibilities for Image Capture - including minor directory damage on the card etc. The only solution is get the card to mount, and that means a recent Card Reader.
Regards
TD

Digital camera and MBP

I just bought a new Canon Powershot S3 IS digital camera.
I haven't used it yet, just opened the box.
It comes with a CD, "Digital Camera Solutions" that they say
you need to install in order to be able to download pictures from camera to the computer.
My question is this: do I really need this program?
Or can iPhoto take care of downloading my pictures?
I don't really want to install something that I don't need.
Thanks!

I just bought a new Canon Powershot S3 IS digital
camera.
I haven't used it yet, just opened the box.
It comes with a CD, "Digital Camera Solutions" that
they say
you need to install in order to be able to download
pictures from camera to the computer.
My question is this: do I really need this
program?
Or can iPhoto take care of downloading my pictures?
I don't really want to install something that I don't
need.
Thanks!
PowerShot S3 IS
Shake-free, powerful zoom for razor-sharp photos and movies.
* 6.0 Megapixel.
* Canon 12x optical zoom lens with Optical Image Stabilizer.
* High quality, full motion movie shooting.
* Super fast DiG!C II Imaging Processor.
* Print/Share* Button for 'one push' printing and downloading of images straight from the camera.
Equipped to handle a wide variety of scenes from sports events to landscapes, the PowerShot S3 IS offers creative functionality in conjunction with a powerful Canon 12x optical zoom lens and full motion movie shooting. With a 35mm equivalent focal length of 36-432mm, Optical Image Stabilizer and USM technologies work in conjunction with an ergonomic design to support razor sharp, shake free long distance still and video shooting.
CANON'S FORMULA FOR AMAZING DIGITAL PHOTOS
- High resolution 6.0 Megapixel CCD delivers photo quality prints up to A3 size.
- High-resolution, Canon 12x optical zoom lens (36-432mm equivalent) featuring, Optical Image Stabilizer technology for shake free shooting.
- High speed start-up, fast autofocus, smooth continuous shooting, faster overall processing and superior image quality thanks to revolutionary new DiG!C II Imaging Processor.
ADVANCED CANON LENS TECHNOLOGY
- Ultrasonic Motor for quick and quiet zooming, as fast as 1 second from wide angle to telephoto.
- UD element minimises chromatic aberrations at high zoom settings.
- Dedicated Macro button allows easy toggling between Normal Shooting, Macro Shooting and Super Macro for close-up shooting to 0cm.
- Optical Image Stabilizer technology delivers hand held, blur free long distance photos and movies.
SOPHISTICATED MOVIE MODE
- Movie recording with maximum 30 frames per second 640x480 (VGA) image quality delivers smooth full motion movies with stereo audio up to 1GB/1hour. (*High-speed 1GB card or higher required).
- Dedicated movie record button allows users to seamlessly switch between still photo and movie recording modes and shoot still images while simultaneously recording movie footage.
- Stereo recording capability for superb sound quality.
- Playback modes allow first frame, last frame, next frame, previous frame, fast forward, fast rewind and slow motion functions for reviewing and editing of movie files using the camera's LCD screen.
- High-speed editing of long movie files allows editing from the camera's LCD screen to create free space for further recording.
EXPLORE DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
- Bright, wide viewing 2.0" LCD vari-angle monitor perfect for reviewing and sharing your photos.
- A comprehensive range of shooting modes, from complete control to full auto, including; Aperture(Av)/Shutter(Tv) Priority, Program(P), Manual(M) and Custom(C), Portrait, Landscape and Night Scene as well as a range of pre-set scene modes.
- Selectable 9 point AiAF, and 1 point AF for precise focusing in any shooting conditions.
- Selectable sensitivity from ISO 80/100/200/400/800 - like having different ISO film loaded at once.
- New Widescreen recording mode supports viewing on widescreen TV's and printing widescreen images.
CANON CONNECTIVITY
- Print/Share* Button allows easy 'one push' printing and downloading straight from the camera.
- Direct photo printing with Canon direct printers and other PictBridge compatible models.
- Supports Exif 2.2 tagging for Design Rule for Camera File System standard allowing superior print image processing.
- Canon's complete image management software suite for fast and easy download, display, email and printing of images, creating panoramic pictures and storage.
- Picture Transfer Protocol supports driver-less image transfer, viewing and deletion between camera and computer with newer operating systems. (Windows XP or Mac OS X v 10.1/10.2/10.3/10.4).
STANDARD ACCESSORIES AND SOFTWARE
- Lens Cap, Neck Strap NS-DC4, 4 x AA Alkaline Batteries, Stereo Video Cable STV-250N, Interface Cable IFC-400PCU, 16MB SD Card, Software Starter Guide, Camera User Guide, Quick Start Guide, Direct Print User Guide, Digital Camera Solution Disc - ZoomBrowser EX (PC), ImageBrowser (Mac), Drivers (PC), PhotoStitch, PhotoRecord, RemoteCapture, Apple QuickTime (PC), ArcSoft PhotoStudio
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
- Tele Converter Lens TC-DC58B
- Wide Converter Lens WC-DC58A
- Lens Adaptor/Hood Set LAH-DC20
- Close-up Lens 500D (58mm)
- High-Power Flash HF-DC1
- Battery and Charger Kit CBK4-300
- Compact Power Adaptor CA-PS700
- Soft case SC-PS3
- Interface Cable IFC-400PCU
- Compact Photo Printers
*Compatible printer required for Direct Printing. Compatible Windows computer required for direct download.
**All pricing indications are recommendations (inc. GST) and are intended for guidance only. Dealers are not obliged to comply with recommended pricing. Please contact your nearest Canon dealer for specific pricing, product and inclusion information.
Does not mention it but it will work with a Mac or PeeCee.
MacPro 2.6  iMac 1.9  iMac 700  Mac Mini 1.42 Mac OS X (10.4.6)  MBP 17" 2.1  PB 1.67 15"  iPod U2  Nano
William

Digital Camera Raw update 4.02

is out in software update. I don;t see it on the Apple site yet however.
This from software update

Discovered that the problem exists only with E-PM2 RAW files imported into Aperture before applying Digital Camera Raw Update 4.02. (I had been shooting RAW+JPEG since getting the camera, while waiting for RAW support.
Found a solution:
Select all the problem files. Choose "Reprocess Originals" from the Photos menu. Done.

Digital cameras

I am looking to buy a new digital camera and need some help. I need an all around durable and highly functional camera for my family. We are very active and I will need to be able to have this camera in many situations. I don't need an SLR as far as I know, but I don't know much about them either. We just want to be able to capture moments for memory purposes, especially a camera that is very responsive to getting action shots. I would love to have a camera that is waterproof, but I don't know how much has to be sacrificed otherwise to get this feature. I also want it for going snowboarding, snowshoeing, sledding.....tolerant to cold weather is important too. Can someone point me in the right direction to get started?

Hi dnomad,
Years ago this would have been a tall order, but a couple of years ago manufacturers introduced a new Point-and-Shoot camera product category. These cameras are both waterproof and shock resistant (up to specific tolerances).
DSLR cameras are generally built much better than Point-and-Shoot cameras, and they almost always produce much better image results. What a DSLR is not is waterproof, and in order to have a DSLR waterproof you would need to invest in an underwater housing. Higher end DSLR cameras are usually water resistant, but this does not mean they can sustain constant contact with water before causing problems. A DSLR would also be very heavy and cumbersome to carry with you while snowboarding or sledding.
I would suggest looking at a waterproof and shock resistant Point-and-Shoot camera. If I had to pick one that we carry I would suggest the Pentax W80 camera, which in addition to being waterproof and shock resistant it is also cold proof.
I hope this helps!
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Help me find the right digital camera for my wife for Christmas!

Hi guys,
I have been scouring Best Buy for days trying to figure out which digital camera to go with. My wife wants a new one for Christmas, but she doesn't want a traditional point and shoot setup, nor a full DSLR (simply becuase I can't afford it!). Plus, my budget is $200-$300.
I've been looking at a factory refurbished Olympus SP-800UZ model for $230 in the outlet center, but I'm not sure if it's a good camera or not.
So, any ideas of which camera to get her?
She wants something with over 12 MP, something with a nice zoom, and something that has the look and feel of a DSLR.
Any suggestions in my price range? Thanks!

Olympus Factory-Refurbished 14.0-Megapixel Digital Camera - Titanium
Model: SP-800UZ | SKU: 1233313
Capture special memories with this 14.0MP digital camera that features 27 shooting modes to snap photos of a wide variety of subjects in various situations. The high-definition movie mode lets you record at 1280 x 720 resolution for stunning results. This product has been refurbished by the manufacturer. Learn more.
5 Read reviews (3)
Sale: $229.99
As to the specific camera you mentioned - yes, it's excellent. Note the Lens Focal Length(s), 35mm equivalent 28-840mm and the 30x optical zoom. Impressive for the price range. You could stop here and be satisfied, assuming you added a memory card since it only has 2mb of internal memory. (don't worry, they are cheap, this one takes SD only).
Still, I would consider what I said above, take a quick look before going the 'Refurbished' route.
I am a Bestbuy employee who volunteers on these boards on my own time. I am not paid for posting here, and you should understand that my opinions are exactly that - opinions. I do not represent Bestbuy in any way.
: Open Mailbox

Does "RAW files from Canon digital cameras cannot be downloaded" MATTER??

Need to buy new camera to use with my G5 and iPHoto 5. I desire (1) affordability, (2) more optical zoom than what I've had in past (want to move from 4x to 6x), and (3) compatible with my G5.
I've had 2 canon powershost (my last, the 570, but a kid dropped it). Easy to use. So maybe simliar, or something nicer.
Been studying the Canon web site about their various cameras. For the above reasons I like thePowerShot SX100 IS, about $240. 6x optical zoom.
HOWEVER, in the MAC OSX compatibility section at Canon it has this quote:
* Mac OS X 10.1 and newer come with Image Capture drivers that support most of Canon's digital cameras with USB interfaces. When a compatible camera is connected to a compatible Mac computer running OS X 10.1 and newer, the computer detects the camera and automatically launches Image Capture. This Apple program allows JPEG images in the camera to be downloaded to the Macintosh. NOTE: RAW files from Canon digital cameras cannot be downloaded in OS X via Image Capture. We suggest the use of File Viewer Utility or an external card reader. Also, movie files shot with PowerShot cameras cannot be downloaded in OS X via Image Capture or iPhoto. We suggest the use of ImageBrowser or an external card reader.
Additionally, Image Capture can access JPEG images directly from a CompactFlash card using an OS X-compatible card reader or using a PC Card Adapter in the PC Card slot of an Apple PowerBook.**
This line caught me confused: *RAW files from Canon digital cameras cannot be downloaded*
In the past, I just plugged in the Canon Camera, and iPhoto 5 opened, and I h appily downloaded the picts and off and away I was.
Will this still happen??? And if I'm not getting the "RAW" picts (whatever that is), but just the JPEGS I'm used to, am I not getting "all" the picts, or the best that my camera could be given me for eventually printing?
Am I worrying about nothing?
Finally, any camera suggestions? Under $300 , super picts, 5-10x zoom, and friendly with my Mac
Thanks
JON

Jon
You know, because you ask the question, I'll guess that it won't really matter to you...
Every camera shoots RAW - that's the total information that the sensor on the camera sees, but mid- and lower end cameras process this RAW data into an easy to use format such as jpegs.
Many (but not all) Pros demand that the camera provide all the data to the computer, so that the photographer can process the images him/her self. For most casual and family users this is not an issue. For the serious hobbyist and the Pro it might well be.
For more on Raw have a look at this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rawimageformat
Btw, later versions of iPhoto do work with Some Raw formats.
As to cameras:
I used a Canon S2 IS for a couple of years and found it really good. There's and S3 and an S5 now too. Currently I'm using a Panasonic FZ8. I really like it.
Regards
TD

Possible Noob Question: Correcting Colors From Cheap Digital Camera

I'm somewhat embarrassed to ask this here, but ya gotta start some place.
I'm a web dev so forgive my ignorance. I work with photos a lot, but they've always come to me from people who know what they're doing. I don't really understand digital -photography- that well---which is quite different I realise than film.
Anyhoo, I'm trying to get better colors from a pocket digital camera (Canon Elf 310) which (supposedly) has 12MP. The pictures I want to take for the job I have in mind involve clouds and landscapes and I gotta take a pocket came because we're camping/fishing.
Anyway, they -could- be very cool but the tests I've done show that the colors are going to be just -wrong-. And by 'wrong' I mean everything either seems -under- saturated or hyper-statured. For example... the subtle pinks in clouds are rendered as washed out or will be overly contrasty (hyper) yellow to orange.
The detail is quite sharp, however so does that mean there's something 'there' there which can be properly corrected? And if so, how?
If it's too wordy, perhaps maybe someone can just recommend a good text on the subject?
TIA,
---JC

I completely agree with Mylenium.
Beyond working with the various Tools in PS, for "Color Correction," I would start with a properly calibrated monitor, so that you know that what you are "correcting," is the Image, and not the monitor.
Next, familiarization with those Tools, such as Hue/Saturation, will be very useful. The Help file can get you started, by defining what each Tool can do, and a short-course on how it does it.
I would always work with non-destructive techniques, so that one can always go back and re-edit things. For that Hue/Saturation, mentioned above, I would use a Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer. Same for Color Balance, and the rest.
Last, you eye should be your guide, on that calibrated monitor. Adjust, until you get what YOU like (or what your client likes). Remember that by default, most of those "corrections" will be "global" for the Image, BUT with Layer Masks, you can restrict/constrain the corrections to just certain areas of that Image. At that point, knowing about the various Masking techniques will be very helpful. Besides the Help file, there are many useful tutorials on various Masking techniques, and many will apply to Layer Masks.
Also be aware that different camera sensors might bias differently, and also with lower-resolution Images, you will likely not have a great deal of Dynamic Range to work with. Start with the best possible, from your camera. If possible, shoot in Camera RAW, and use the "processing" power of ACR (Adobe Camera RAW), to get started. You should be able to create a Preset for your camera (maybe shoot a McBeth Color Checker card, and calibrate that), to get that processing started.
Good luck,
Hunt

Lightroom 5.6 cannot detect my D610 for camera tethering.

Lightroom 5.6 cannot detect my D610 for camera tethering. I had this problem for quite some time. But before my tether would usually work but it would take a very long time or i need to turn the camera on and off or remove the cable a couple of times just so that the lightroom can detect it. But just recently while tethering in the middle of the shoot it got disconnected then after that my lightroom won't detect my camera anymore. Whats wrong with it? any fix? The reason i purchased Lightroom because of its easy tethering, but sad to say now I can't even use it.
OS: Windows 8.1

Exactly the same problem here. Used to work from time to time, now not at all. No software change in-between.
D610
Lightroom 5.6
MacOS 10.10

Raw 3.1 professional custom profiles for highend digital cameras

I have a few questions for thomas knoll:
I would like to start with a statement here:
WHY ??? ....all this messy color calibration with slider inside the raw 3.1 plugin , when it could be so easy and simple :
what you can find already inside high end digital back software like sinar's capture shop or the leaf capture software, is nothing more and nothing less than a plugin called profilemaker , written by greatg mac beth. the leader in this field nowadays.
a software ,which again against license fees, is being implemented in those softwares.
what does it exactly do?...you might ask....
well, here a very simplified explanation :
for ex., you start your shoot with a shot of greatg color chart (24 patch or the big one), and that very" licensed" plugin called profilemaker will calculate a 100% precise and accurate color correction in the form of a custom icc-profile for you.
in just a few seconds.
so that that red from the chart that you took a picture of, is going to be that very same red in the final file in photoshop.
it puts something like a correction curve over your original raw file, so that it matches that very color from chart you just shot.
such colors is a game of numbers and formulas, and certainly not a slider function to fumble around with, where one person will say this red is correct, and another says no, this red is the right one.
something like profilemaker is incredibly accurate , because its pure mathematics, and not a form of lottery...!!!with an infinit number of possibilities when one would use sliders like in raw 3.1..
sliders that fighteach other, especially the ones in the calibrate tab section.
it takes a few second for a profilemaker software to make an 100% acurate custom color correction , in the form of a custom icc profile for your shot / and or digital camera.
if you have ever experienced this shortcut and these amazingly beautiful rich colors you can achieve with such a software, you will NEVER EVER go back.
I am not sure why adobe has not come up yet with their "own" version of such a profilemaker portion inside raw plugin 3.x.
they certainly have the know how to do this.
i would dare to state here, that it probably would take them only a few days to implement such a feature.
or , why adobe is not implementing an optional upgrade with "gretags" profilemaker , inside their raw plugin.
I certainly can count hundreds , probably thousands of photographers, who would be more than happy to pay for this feature. even if the license fees would be above 300$ for such an upgrade.
dear thomas knoll,
why have you not yet done so.....>>???
I hope that very, very soon you will consider such a suggestion.
in the meantime ..............i cross fingers......
very sincerely,
akos simon
akos photography

I have done many DlogH curves, and at one point, owned the Zakia /Todd book. No, the toe does not change much with increased development, but it does change. And yes the changes beyond middle gray (Zone 5; 18% gray)are greater than below, but again, it does change. Film speed does change as a function of development, and film speed is based (variously over the years) on just how the film comes out of the toe, it is inescapable that the curves pivot about the toe, roughly speaking, that is. The curves not only pivot there, the toe can increase in F+F value thereby showing a vertical displacement on the plot. If you take individual plots of a particular film over differing development changes, and overlay the curves such that the toes merge (roughly!), you will see that the slope of the curve does rise from the toe. I have lots of graphs in storage if you would like to see them.
I am familiar with AA's procedures. I studied and used them from about 1961. One of the reasons I ran so many curves is that I was interested in the so called compensating development, such as water bath, special formulas etc. I ran the curves on Plus-X, Tri-X, Tri-X professional, Panatomic-X, and other emulsions whose names I have forgotten. What I found out is that Plus-X didn't respond to compensating development at all. I could lay the reference curve over the DUT and they would match exactly. Quite a shock. I remember a film rated at ASA 250 that responded admirably, but way too grainy, even in 4x5.
I used two methods. One was to contact print a step tablet, the other was to shoot the tablet using an old diffusion head as a light source. I could tell how much support in the shadows I was getting from flare that way. Oh, and the one way that always worked was pre-exposure, sometimes post exposure. I could lift the toe nicely that way.
Plus-X had the straightest middle section of all. Ruler straight. Tri-X had a significantly different toe than Tri-X Professional.
Every meter measures luminance and can allow you to measure the scene dynamic range. A one percent spotmeter becomes an averaging meter for extreme telephotos, just as there is no such thing as a panoramic camera with a fixed lens. It's just cropping for the panorama, and whether a handheld meter is averaging or spot depends on the relative focal length of the taking lens.
The idea that a hand held averaging meter cannot give you the dynamic range of a scene is nonsense. Have you ever read "The Negative", first edition of AA? He explains how to use a meter to obtain dynamic range, if you cannot do that, you cannot even begin to use the zone system. He even described using a tube set into the meter element to do a rudimentary spot meter. I had several Weston Masters which had this homemade accessory. it was pretty neat, but boy, did it rob you of sensitivity!
Look, a metering system is simply some sort of light sensitive material which provides a change in some electrical parameter for a corresponding change in the light level. On it's own, you would simply see a needle move across the face plate. Putting numbers on the face plate corresponding to some light unit (Lux, Ft. Candles, Candles/ft^2, etc) allows you to quantify the responses. What you ultimately do with these numbers is one of the biggest parts of sensitometry as applied to photography. As you say, that application to digital is different than to film, but only because the demands of the digital medium requires it. I could just as easily build an exposure system for film based specifically on highlight placement. Film chose a different route, and, so far as I can tell, the optimum route. If digital and film had developed concurrently, perhaps we would reconcile the two systems so as to avoid the condition we find ourselves, at least those of us raised on film. The new guys, well, they will probably chortle over the Dodge/Burn application. They will have no appreciation for negatives. It took a while in the darkroom with the counterintuitive nature of dodge/burn when I started up.
I am enjoying this exchange, Jeff. It clears the air, and reminds me that in order to most easily grasp the digital concepts, I am better off with my engineering hat than the photographer's hat. I'm in my late 60's and it's too easy to slip into old patterns. Changing hats works well, and I am glad I can do it.
Cheers, and goodnight! (my,oh my! It's 1:17AM here!)

Shooting Digital Camera Tethered

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