Shopping for a new mouse

Whats your favorite and why?
Thanks

Short of spending inordinate amounts of money, I'd go as far as to say most >mice/meeses/mouses are relatively the same. As long as they're not cheap >and break right away.
kind of, but also not really. I just did a whole lot of looking into mice myself, after finally figuring out that they're absolutely not all equal. especially when you are talking bluetooth mice, in my experience you really can make some bad choices.
what i learned from my looking around: laser tracking and optical tracking are not the same thing. you definitely want to go for laser tracking, makes quite a difference. this means that if you're looking at the mighty mouse, it's only the wireless one that has this type of tracking, so take a look at that one.
I think logitech also have a few decent laser tracking bluetooth mice on the market.
if you are going for bluetooth, get something recent to market. bluetooth drivers used to be horrible things for some brands like kensington, they would randomly cut out and need to be reset, or the mouse pointer would just jump all over the screen whenever it felt like it.
under no circumstances should you get a kensington pilot mini optical bluetooth mouse. I just trashed mine, worst mouse I've ever had. it was so bad it turned me off even considering any kensington mice at all when looking for a new one.
so I ended up going with the wireless mighty mouse after testing it out with logic for an hour or so at a local dealer. compared it with a logitech that they had, unfortunately they had no logitechs with laser tracking in stock or it might have been better competition. but I've no regrets at all with the apple one, it's actually quite amazing, never thought I'd like it this much. even the weird scrollball thing is pretty cool, you get quite used to being able to x/y scroll in logic quite quickly.
anyway happy shopping. don't buy kensington!

Similar Messages

Shopping for a new hard drive

My ancient white Macbook's hard drive failed. The Genius Bar said to buy a new drive online and they'd install it for me. But they didn't say what to buy. Are their limitations i should be aware of? Brands to look for or avoid? Size? RPM? GB? RAM?

Check out Other World Computing (OWC) at macsales.com. That's where I buy all of my Apple hardware and they give great deals and give you search results based on your specific Mac.
As a matter of fact, here's a more direct link:
http://eshop.macsales.com/MyOWC/Models.cfm
Go there, select your MacBook from the list, then select "Internal Drive Options (Hard Drives, SSD, CD & DVD Drives, etc.)." This should take you to the hard drives that are compatible for your MacBook. Let me know if you need anything else!

I'm shopping for a new laptop

But I'm concerned with the proprietary aspect of the software
Most of if not all of the business software are windows based.and the supplemental software that is there for iOS just doesn't ease my concerns
I really have to have excel, word, outlook, work effectively not just apps that make it similar to appease me, with a ambiguous imply that it might happen later
Lets face it Mac is a sizable investment, another thing I find disappointing is that allele got rid of the 17 in screen , as I'm getting older an need a larger viewing range
The question is are they going to address these items if not I'm going to move on and go for HP very shortly
I don't need retina display not hat important and not worth the cost
Shmors

Since your older like me and didn't get one of the last 17" MacBook Pro's with Snow Leopard, and also you likely won't like the new generations of the Mac operating system that Apple keeps releasing on a annual basis now.
My suggestion is to get yourself a nice 17" anti-glare laptop from a PC vendor preferably with Windows 7 as that will be supported until 2020.
Windows 8 will be a sudden shock, as also is the OS X Lions that come on all new Mac's now.
Even though there is OfficeMac, the fonts and features are not the same as on Windows so sharing files with PC users is going to be a pain and there is ALWAYS that one piece of software you need that isn't on OS X and only on Windows, so it's like all we Mac users have to wind up running Windows eventually anyway.
So we are screwed basically and it's best just to stick with what you know.
As a Mac user for over 20 years, I've found Apple's products lately to be undesirable, childish and gimmicky, so I'm running Windows 7 on mine until it's dead or Johnny Iv'es rescues us from goofball iOSfication.

Shopping for a new phone

I have an old iPhone and would like to upgrade without paying a fortune.

Hello, I have a brand-new iPhone 5S gold that is still unopened in the box . It was replaced under warranty when I broke my old one. So I use the warranty to get a brand-new 5S and then I also got myself the 6+ that's what I use today . So if you are interested in a iPhone 5s gold the best offer I've found online was $263 somewhere in that range would be my preference . Please contact me at the email below and have a great day.
I also have several different cases for the phone some fall some not but I could send a picture.
Snr333@ EarthLink.net

The nightmare of shopping for a new monitor.

First, I apologize if this has been asked before however Ive been searching the internet and on the Pshop forum and cant seem to find solid info.
The monitor will be used primarily for still image color correction in Photoshop (Im still using CS2) such as would be standard in the advertising industry.
I bought a used LaCie Electron Blue 22 IV (a CRT monitor) about 2.5 years ago and I have been pleased with it, but my OPTIX-XR calibration system claims the monitor now is outside calibration parameters [I suppose the CRT phosphors or whatever the heck they are, are burning out?]. The result is I can no longer get the monitor correctly calibrated and I am loosing shadow detail.
I want to replace this with a 23+/- LCD and $1000 is my target budget.
When I last went through the research 2.5 years ago (I dread going through this again) reliable info was very hard to come by and everything seemed to be up in the air as LCD technology was evolving. I bought a DELL (forgot the model#, but it used it same Philips LCD panel as the Apple Cinema but cost less), but he DELL had brightness uniformity issues so I sent it back.
I lucked out and found the used CRT locally (for about $200) which rescued me.
What are the current market options?
Ive read where the La Cie 324 is recommended as a solid budget solution for color correction work. Can anyone share their experience with this monitor?
Ive always read mixed assessments of the Apple Cinema Display, but it is still an option.
Any other monitors on the market I should know about in my price range?
Additionally, if anyone can point me to respected online reviews which have real substance it would be a huge help.
Thanks a bunch for any input.
-Lovegasoline

Thanks for all the well considered replies.
So, there is a dividing line here it seems. Perhaps wide-gamut is a relative term without an objective reference and is being thrown around too loosely (i.e. marketing teams)?
The idea that only LED is wide gamut further confuses things. But, I can understand the point being made...and perhaps the terms has been applied too loosely?
Apple's monitor line hasn't been updated for a while and rumors abound about a new generation of Apple LED monitors. Even speaking of vaporwear, I imagine the first gen will be pricey as are all other LED monitors on the market. Maybe the price will come down if it is marketed widely...but this is all speculation at this point. I could get a smaller (maybe used) Apple Cinema Display to tide me over and see what the market brings in the next 6 months. But I think LED monitors will just be out of my price range.
The other issue and I suppose this goes for the 'almost' wide gamut monitors as well, like the NEC 2690/2490, is the limitations in Apple's computer hardware & Pshop to really take advantage of true wide gamut monitors. A few years back Karl Lang wrote the an article about this. I'm a little lost in the technicalities and have not kept abreast of them, so I have to ask, has the hardware/software evolved since then to accommodate the monitor technology?:
http://www.outbackphoto.com/tforum/viewtopic.php?TopicID=1700
"A wide gamut LCD display is not a good thing for most (95%) of high
end users. The data that leaves your graphic card and travels over the
DVI cable is 8 bit per component. You can't change this. The OS, ICC
CMMs, the graphic card, the DVI spec, and Photoshop will all have to be
upgraded before this will change and that's going to take a while. What
does this mean to you? It means that when you send RGB data to a wide
gamut display the colorimetric distance between any two colors is much
larger. As an example, lets say you have two adjacent color patches one
is 230,240,200 and the patch next to it is 230,241,200. On a standard
LCD or CRT those two colors may be around .8 Delta E apart. On an Adobe
RGB display those colors might be 2 Delta E apart on an ECI RGB display
this could be as high as 4 delta E.
It's very nice to be able to display all kinds of saturated colors you
may never use in your photographs, however if the smallest visible
adjustment you can make to a skin tone is 4 delta E you will become
very frustrated very quickly.
...and...
Only the Eizo 210, 220 and NEC2180WG have 8-10-10 paths. If you really
want to know... the path in the Eizo is "8-14bit3D-8-10bit1D-10" go
figure that one out ;-) The 2180WG has an actual 10 bit DVI interface
with a 10-10-10 path but nothing supports it so you can't use it yet -
but for $6500 your ready when it does ;-)"
Any comments on that? I certainly do not want this to evolve into a dissertation : )
Real world, is the NEC 2490/2690 worth the price?
Still gathering opinions, so keep any ideas/recs coming if you have them.
Thanks again,
Lovegasoline

Uh oh...Should I start shopping for a new HDD/Laptop?

It's bad enough that Firefox, the plug-ins for Firefox, Flash, etc, can't be updated because I don't have an Intel HDD, but now it appears my HDD is failing.
I was looking for ways to speed up my G4 (still) and, upon suggestions from Lyssa to another user, I downloaded SMART Utility. Once it ran the quick test on startup, it showed this:
So I'm pretty much screwed right?
PS: I have 55.7Gb Capacity with 12.3 Available, if that matters on a failing HDD...

Replacing the hard drive is a very difficult thing to do.
http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iBook_G4
We could give you more explicit instructions if we knew which model it is.
Paying a professional to do it is likely to cost more than the iBook is worth.
http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=IBUG120 GB-54&Category_Code=SVCIBWHT&Product_Count=2
If the external hard drive is not FireWire, then it most likely will not work as a startup volume for the computer. If you can't start up from the Leopard disc (or some other Install disc), then formatting the external drive as a startup volume would not be possible, even if it is a FireWire drive.

I'm shopping for a new computer how much GB?

I'm looking at a Dell. How much GB should I get to run Photoshop and Lightroom? Most are coming with 8gb, do I need to get 16gb? It's a lot more expensive to get the 16gb.

You can buy the 8GB configuration and add more ram if there are additional sockets on the mother board.
I bought a refurbished Dell workstation from Dell because it was a refurbished machine I had not choice is the amount of Ram it would come with.
My machine came with 8GB of ECC RAM speed rating 1600. The machine had 4 empty RAM I wanted more RAM for more RAM helps when you work on documents with lots of layers. You can buy RAM from Dell as well as from third party sellers. Dell prices are somewhat higher the third party sellers and if you buy a large quantity of ram modules you can get even better prices. I added 32GB of of 1600 ECC RAM for about $300 Dell price was some what higher nearer $400. If a bought more then 10 RAM modules instead of the four I purchased the per unit price I could would have been lower.
SSD is also very desirable for Photoshop scratch space.

I'm shopping for a new ideacentre - please advise

I'm a little confused and a little concerned about what to buy. Maybe someone can help advise me. On the lenovo site, the have a model 53132CU which looks like a top rate machine for 800USD. The only comparable model I can find at other webtailers is model # 57076244 for $750. Wondering why it is not a 5313xxx? The only difference seems to be 1 GB of RAM. What else is different?? The numbering scheme seems to be designed to keep me from comparing anything to the lenovo direct site. Shady?
I'm also interested why the PDF data sheet shows the top of the line model to be the 53132FU available in October. But even the lenovo site dos not have them. When will it be available and where?
I also would like to add a second HDD setup as a raid 1. Will the controller & Vista allow this? And reading the forum, it looks like an update will remove the C & D partition in December. Should I hold out for this update? I figure that buying from a reseller, they may not have the update for months.
Thanks for and good advice from you folks!

You can buy the 8GB configuration and add more ram if there are additional sockets on the mother board.
I bought a refurbished Dell workstation from Dell because it was a refurbished machine I had not choice is the amount of Ram it would come with.
My machine came with 8GB of ECC RAM speed rating 1600. The machine had 4 empty RAM I wanted more RAM for more RAM helps when you work on documents with lots of layers. You can buy RAM from Dell as well as from third party sellers. Dell prices are somewhat higher the third party sellers and if you buy a large quantity of ram modules you can get even better prices. I added 32GB of of 1600 ECC RAM for about $300 Dell price was some what higher nearer $400. If a bought more then 10 RAM modules instead of the four I purchased the per unit price I could would have been lower.
SSD is also very desirable for Photoshop scratch space.

Needing A New Mouse

I'm shopping for a new mouse. Can I get some recommendations for high quality ergonomic models that help prevent stress/injury in the hands/arms/shoulder?

Apple's Magic Mouse has the built in finger sensor and does lots for an Apple Mouse. That is really something that personal preferences run deep in. Go to Best Buys or Staples or Radio Shack etc and try the feel of the different mice and pick one that fits your hand nicely. Then you'll need to choose whether you want a wireless or a wired mouse. Have fun with it, good luck. Most any mouse will work with the Mac, stay away from the ones that need their own little reciever though, I think it's a needless 'nother device.

A New Mouse

This doesn't really concern FCP, although I'll be using it a lot and I assume there's plenty here who can answer my question. I'm shopping for a new mouse. Can I get some recommendations for high quality ergonomic models that help prevent stress/injury in the hands/arms/shoulder?

Indeed not the right place for this request
If you're worried about injury through mouse use.... don't use one!!
Since I changed to a Wacom tablet, I've had no problem with RSA.... and find editing with a tablet much easier than a mouse. But I keep my (wireless) apple mouse on stand by for the odd tricky thing a tablet falls down on.
J.

Help me shop for new Palm...

I've had a IIIc for probably 10 years and it has my life on it. I love the touch screen, it's pretty rugged, the color display (easy to see) and the small size. I realize that it's pretty old and I want to shop for a new Palm.
I really only use it for address book and date book.
I have this little leather case for it that I keep business cards.
Any suggestions as to what a good replacement/upgrade would be?
BTW...I think this forum is great!
Post relates to: Palm IIIc

Loudell, any of Palm's devices will be able to import your information - either a PalmOS phone, or one of the few PDA's still sold (but going soon!)
It all depends on what "bells and whistles" you desire. The Z22 is the most basic, entry-level model PDA and has no card slot, or wireless connectivity (other than IR).
The E2 is the mid-range device; it adds BlueTooth. The TX has a large screen, BlueTooth, and Wifi.
Wyrenut
Post relates to: Centro (AT&T)
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Shopping for PC for Photoshop CS4 & Illustrator

I'm shopping for a new PC to run Photoshop CS4 and Illustrator primarily for textile design. Any suggestions on the minimum and ideal specifications on the type and size of the:
processor
memory
video / graphics
Thanks

My budget is around $1,000.00 or so.
I've been looking at two configurations of the Dell XPS 8100
Both have:
               Processor: Intel Core i7-860
               Memory: 8 GB Dual Channel DDR# SDRAM @ 1333 MHz -4 DIMMs
They differ:
Video Card: a) ATI Radeon HD 5450 1GB DDR3
                   b) nVidia GeForce GTS240 1024MB GDDR3
I've tried building something w/ similar specs at HP and Cyberpower and the price seems to be generally the same range.
As for size of files that is hard to say. The finished files that I send to the digital printer's FTP site will be smaller than what I work with but they said they get a broad range of file size from under a 1M to over 1G.

New mouse.

So my not-so-mighty mouse has gone to a cheesy heaven.
I'm in the market for a new mouse. Rather than buying a straight replacement, could users give me a little feedback on their non-mighty mice?
I'm left handed, though that doesn't matter as I can use a mouse happily in either hand, usually depending on available desktop space. Any thoughts?

My mouse of choice is a Microsoft optical mouse, wired, with two-buttons and a scroll wheel that clicks down as the center click. It's this one
[Microsoft Optical Mouse (Blue)|http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-K81-00004-Optical-Mouse-Blue/dp/B000068M P2/ref=sr141?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1257513961&sr=8-41]
at the moment, but it was another similar model before. I wore out the teflon pads on the bottom of the previous Microsoft mouse, but it was otherwise still working.
It works fine with Apple's generic USB mouse driver, so I don't have any special Microsoft driver installed. One thing you cannot set with Apple's driver is the center click. However, I found that if I connect my Mighty Mouse, I get the System Preferences Mouse pane for the Mighty Mouse. And if I set the center click there, when I disconnected the Mighty Mouse, that setting stuck when using the generic Microsoft mouse. I have it set to do Exposé.
I like Microsoft's basic mice because they are sturdy, do not require special carefulness, and do not require special cleaning. They are also a bit larger and taller and feel more comfortable in terms of their shape, at least for me. The one I use is symmetrical left to right, so it makes no different which hand is using it.

Solution for MS Bluetooth Mouse 5000 pairing problem

I had a problem with my MS bluetooth mouse 5000 pairing with my MacBook that I thought I should share. When I first bought the mouse, it paired with no problem at all. But after about 2 weeks it disconnected for some unknown reason. Thinking it was a problem with the mouse, I replaced the batteries, and even exchanged it for a new mouse. After going through the Mac bluetooth pairing process and trying out a number of solutions I saw posted on various bluetooth subjects, I could not get it to work - during the pairing process, it came up with various errors indicating that the pairing process failed.
Finally, from another post, I did the following:
- removed all references to the mouse in the bluetooth list under Open Bluetooth Preferences.
- I then did a PRAM reset per Apple's suggested procedure (Command-Option-P-R during start up).
Once this completed, I was able to get my mouse to successfully pair with my MacBook.

I had the same problem. The cure is to boot off of the OSX DVD and when it attempts to find a mouse hold down the connect button on the bottom of the mouse. Keep holding it down until OSX recognizes the mouse. It may take a minute or two. After the mouse has been recognized you can exit before the installation requires software to be transferred. Then just select a normal reboot on the exit menu option.

Where is the best shop for new mac pro's memory in America ?

Dear all.
Thank you for your advice in advance.
I bought new mac pro at yesterday. But here is japan,so really expensive new mac pro's memory.
So I want to buy memory at America by internet.
If you know where is the best shop for this memory's price and stability,please let me know.
Really thank you for your advice. I want to buy 16G in now.

I bought a "8GB FULLY BUFFERED PC6400 DDR2 ECC (FB-DIMM) 800MHz SPECIAL APPLE KIT (Four modules 2GB) MB194G/A" from Memoryamerica.com for $395.
killer deal.works perfectly, no overheating , no issues.
They shipped the sameday. they say on their website that they are the only website shipping the new memory.It must be true, people who ordered from OWC, macsales are still waiting...I am happy I ordered from them.They even have the 4GB modules in stock.These guys are really good.
http://store.memoryamerica.com/fully-buffered-pc6400-ddr2-ecc-8gb-apple-kit.html

Shopping for a new mouse

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