Should I bother with Aperture

I'm a avid iphoto user and have about 20+ gigs of photos on my MBpro. I don't presently own a camera that shoots raw but expect to buy one in the next year or two. A photographer is going to give us a thousand pics from our recent wedding weekend and I wanted to know whether I should ask for them in raw or jpeg. I know iphoto can import raw but is it worth it to buy Aperture to possibly edit the pics? I fiddle with the histogram settings in iphoto quite a bit.
Second question: is Aperture easy to administer? We are running out of room on our hardrive and will probably have to store some photos on an external drive. Is this complicated? Time Machine has nearly filled our 300gig external drive and so we will probably need to buy a larger external drive soon. Should I stick with iphoto or progress to Aperture?
Any advice would be great. thx

By all means get your wedding pix in RAW format. In fact the photog almost surely has the pix in RAW+JPEG, so he/she should be willing to deliver in both formats at no cost difference. In addition to allowing huge latitude in post-process editing, RAW captures contain more image data.
I strongly recommend that every digital photog with adequate computer hardware first spend $33 and work through the tutorial CD Apple Pro Training Series: Aperture 1.5 (Apple Pro Training) by Orlando Luna and Ben Long (Paperback - Oct 18, 2006). Have the CD and a MacIntel with minimum 2 GB RAM (preferably more) prior to ordering the Aperture trial so you don't waste time of the 30 day trial. Note that the value is in the tutorial, not in using the book as a manual.
IMO trying Aperture without the tutorial's guidance is a waste of time, leading to bad habits and/or just not getting it.
Note that you probably should ignore Shell's confusing post above; IMO Shell is just confused.
When you do go to buy a DSLR, note that there is always a delay from the time any brand new DSLR is introduced until various software supports the new model's RAW conversions. Different RAW converters variously show up sooner/later, and different RAW converters work better/worse with different models. E.g. Adobe's Nikon D300 conversions are out now but apparently do not do a very good job.
Typically the time frame is 1-3 months, so the very earliest adopters of new models may have to wait a month or two to convert their RAW images. All good DSLRs have a RAW+JPEG capture choice, however, so even the earliest adopters can manage images immediately.
Safely storing 20,000+ images using a laptop as a base is complicated. No way around that reality. Aperture provides several mechanisms (vaults, projects, etc.) that assist in the the process, and there are regularly threads here on the topic.
-Allen Wicks

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After disasters in iDVD `05, should I bother with `06? Is it repaired?

Hello,
I appreciate any help possible, but am particularly interested in comments from "Len Goff" and "John Beatty1." This question involves a small experiment.
I found errors in iDVD 5 that went unrepaired (yes, I did report them, once). There was no patch for the problems and I noticed that after 6 months and two downloads, patch support vanishes for iApps until the new version (which = $$) comes out. Hmmmm.... (I've picked up DSP4 and will start learning it ASAP. However, for simpler jobs, such as archive video, iDVD would be useful.)
So here's a re-hash of the two old issues that were never fixed via patch.
First, iDVD 5 handled the menus strangely relative to version 4. Using menus did not work well in v5. If on menu A, the user selected a button that was to lead to menu B, then the cursor/focus would "land" on menu B on a button that was at an elevation nearest to the button last used on menu A. If that's not clear, I'll rephrase. Say that menu B has many (6-10) buttons (leading to chapters) arranged in a tidy verticle line. On menu A, the button leading to menu B sits about 2/3rd's down the screen. The focus/cursor would "land" on menu B at whatever button was about 2/3rd's down the screen instead of going to the upper left and proceding from the top left, L-R, T-B.
This "error" lost and confused people for whom I made disks. I was not expecting it either. It made navigating difficult for people because they were expecting something more intuitive. You can look back in discussions and see that one solution to this was text-editing the files after making a disk image to correct navigation. Was this "fixed" in version 6?
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Experiment: If someone would please snag 5 to 10 minutes of video with a few chapter markers in it (more than 2 sec apart and more than 2 sec from each end of the video) and toss it into v6 with chapter menus. Please try this situation (as disk image) especially using the same theme or a very similar one. Please let me know if the textless buttons can now be made again, like v4 was. Again, did they fix it?
If you've read all of this, then thank you for your time. If anyone takes up my experiment, then double thanks! and please respond.
If nothing has improved, than I'll stick to importing v4 archives into DSP and tweaking. (Can't wait until I learn DSP more.)

Good thing for you I like to do experiments!
The theme "Wedding Bronze" in iDVD6 still only highlights text on the submenu buttons.
However, I think that's a theme change and not an iDVD6 limitation per se, as the theme "Porfolio Color" seems to makes buttons that highlight your movie clip, and not just the text.
So I opened Wedding Bronze and dragged in a short movie with 5 chapters. As in iDVD5, those buttons only highlighted the text. But you can change the button style from the default button used in the theme! So I selected a button, and then chose a new style from the button pallet (a heart shaped button or a formal frame button). These new buttons select the frame around the movie itself, not just the text. Then I selected "Save as Disk Image", and it worked fine, with two of the chapters with no text at all on the buttons. Navigation using the DVD Player on the disk image worked fine and highlighted the frames around the chapters with no text at all on the buttons. Could you have changed the buttons in iDVD5? I think so!
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So there you go, hope this helps…..
John B

Should i bother using aperture.....

with a G4 system i.e. my PowerBook. The thing crawls on my machine. I cant afford to own a G5...no space and its expensive.
Will i have to wait for an intel mac to enjoy the full capabilities?

When I was testing my memory I pulled everything but the last gig of memory and tested Aperture. SLOW..... Going back up to 2 gigs helped, but things really kicked in at 4 gigs. If you run Aperture and then also Activity Monitor you'll see the RAM usage, so yes going up in RAM will still help quite a bit as will the fastest video card you can get.
As far as backing up at the event, I'm against it as I would rather do it in a controlled environment. Too much going on at a wedding to try to remember which card you backed up etc. Keep it simple and always do the exact same thing. I put my cards in a pouch that is attached to my camera bag. Unused ones on top slid straight in. Used ones replace new ones and rotated 90º starting from the top working my way down. The pouch always stays in the same pocket and the tether makes sure of that.

Should I bother with the Adobe Lens Profile Creator?

I am concentrating mostly on architectural photography these days and I need a pep talk about the "Adobe Lens Profile Creator". The process seems laborious and error prone - in other words it could end up being a waste of time and money (for the printing of the calibration charts). Has anyone used it to good effect? And with what lenses?
I do the bulk of my work with the 24mm PC-E Nikkor f/3.5 lens and I also use two older lenses - the 28mm PC Nikkor f/3.5 and (my favorite) the 15mm Nikkor f/3.5. All three lenses suffer from a small amount of barrel distortion and chromatic aberration so some correction is usually needed.
I have two specific reservations about the lens profiling process -
1. It came out with Photoshop CS5. Since then the manual controls have increased in sophistication. Can't I get pretty much the same result using the manual adjustments?
2. In my drop-down menu in Adobe Camera Raw CC there are eighty-one lenses listed - but not the three I am using! This is crazy and reflects badly on the people who designed the whole process. Who cares about perspective correction in a 600mm lens?
Anyway, I would appreciate a reply from anyone who has gone through the profiling process. Thanks.
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German Jack ha scritto:
create an jpg/tif – profile
create a copy from the lcp
rename this copy with “ – RAW”
open this lcp with an editor
search any “False” and rename it to “True”
save it and you have a perfect raw - lensprofile
Ok, but what does it mean rename and correct the content of the lcp file?
It remains a profile created from jpg source, CameraRaw could consider it like a raw lens profile but it has no more value than a jpg profile, I believe...
Anyway, for whatelse it could be useful your suggestion to modify lcp file?
Thank you for your attention

I have a mac Book Pro and and iMac, both with Thunderbolt. I connect my thunderbolt cable to each and each tells me that it is connected to the other, but when I try secondary screen in Aperture it is still grey and not available, what do I have to do to?

I have a Mac Pro and an Imac, both with thunderbolt. When I connect the two together with a thunderbolt cable each recognises the other as shown in the system report, but when I try to use second screen in Aperture, the option is still grey and unavailable. What do i have to do to activate second screen in Aperture via thunderbolt?

In actual fact this seems a bigger problem than I thought. Linking the two computers via the Thundernolt cable and selecting cmd F2 no longer shares the screen at all and Apple say it may not be able too in Mointain Lion - What are they playing at, hundreds of customers link computers together and share the screens - Lets hope they are wrong and tell us what we need to do other than move back to Windows.

Few 5DmkII RAW files do not open with Aperture, but OK with other software

Hi, I have two RAW files which I cannot import with Apple Aperture. The files open fine with Canon Digital Photo Professional, Raw Photo Processor and dcraw (and with various programs on my Windows 7 laptop) and I'm able to create TIFF files from the RAW files with every other software.
Detail about the files:
A. they are two first frames of burst (used auto bracketing, which takes 3 images in burst mode, to create HDR image)
B. there is nothing strange in the files, they are normal RAW files and file size is normal as well (other 28.4MB and 32.7MB)
C. both files process OK in above mentioned softwares and there are no blocks missing from created TIFF images, also preview JPG in the RAW file is OK
D. Mac OS X Quick view (press spacebar in Finder) and Preview do show these two RAW images well (I assume they use the embedded JPG image)
I have installed all the updates available in "Apple icon" -> "Software update..." function. Therefore I have Apple Aperture version 3.0.2. Computer is MacPro:
Model Name: Mac Pro
Model Identifier: MacPro3,1
Processor Name: Quad-Core Intel Xeon
Processor Speed: 2.8 GHz
Number Of Processors: 2
Total Number Of Cores: 8
L2 Cache (per processor): 12 MB
Memory: 12 GB
Bus Speed: 1.6 GHz
Boot ROM Version: MP31.006C.B05
SMC Version (system): 1.25f4
How I can submit the files for Apple to create fix? I searched for Apple Aperture support but there is only this forum, no email address or anything. Do they read this forum?

Some clarifications and answers to your questions:
First to Tony Gay:
I try the feedback later today even they claim "Please know that while we do read these submissions, we cannot guarantee a personalized response.", which is original reason why I'm why I wrote this question here. The url you provided did not work but this should:
http://www.apple.com/support/feedback
This is not relevant to sRAW files, I did not change the between camera taking automated bracketed shots the image format for 2 shots to sRAW and took 3rd with RAW, that is not even possible.
I have copied the images from card to hard drive, not trying to read from the card itself. However now you mention tried also from card = exactly same result. Tried desktop (different HD) and external USB and external eSata, all same result.
Get info doesn't show anything wierd for the images. All other 192 RAWs from same shoot were imported with exact same methodology (as well as 60000 images before that).
Then to gosuk2:
There is no HDR setting in camera, I took the images FOR HDR, but did not use any specific setting, just used 1 1/3 stop bracketing and 2 second times when camera automatically takes 1 1/3 underexposed, correct exposure and 1 1/3 overexposed image (the order of images can naturally be changed via custom function in camera). All this is unrelevant since I shoot quite often HDR with this method (=more than 500 images each month) this way and they have always been fine before these two images.
I see the files in import panel and I the don't use import dublicates setting so that doesn't affect the situation (why it would, Aperture things files are broken).
Again HDR cannot be combined in 5DmkII, it's just automatically shoot 3 bracketed shots.
No I don't get same result no matter what I do, it's just these two files. My other ~5000 HDR bracketed RAWs are importing fine as well as all burst/shots taken in continous shooting mode.
I'm very aware how stacking of images works, but I do not understand relevance to this issue. I can not import the images at all to Apple Aperture, after importing all images Aperture displays dialog saying that following files could not be imported to Aperture, then displays list with both of these files in the list and gives possibility to locate the files in Finder.
I have used Aperture since version 1 and I have 70000 images imported successfully to Aperture. Earlier I have seen this dialog "Aperture could not import image" only after hard drive/card failure. However then images cannot be used in Canon's DPP (Digital Photo Professional) or any other RAW software - now the problem ONLY EXISTS in Aperture all other RAW converters are able to open and process SUCCESSFULLY these images.
So I'm not whining that Aperture is not good, but if it starts to work only part of the images in future and I have to process rest of the images with Canon DPP (that program is really lousy on usability standpoint) then I'm not so happy with Aperture anymore.
Will report here if I get any comments back from Apple through the Feebback tool.
Message was edited by: vahonen (due to forum software replacing words like s u c k s etc. with ***)
Message was edited by: vahonen

Question about setting up a workstation with Aperture 2

hello, I hope I will get some help from here.
I guess first I should list the things I have, this will make it easier. I have a Macbook Pro with 10.5.6, a Samsung 24" monitor, Aperture 2, Photoshop CS4, CANON Pro9000 Printer, and Pantone Huey Screen calibrator.
So I already have both my screen (macbook Pro's and Samsung's) calibrated. My question is about how to correctly set up my printer.
I went on Canon's website and try to download the driver for the CANON printer, But I see there is 3 different version for the driver, i am not sure which one to choose. One is for 10.3.9 and above, one is for OSX CUP (which i donno what it means).
and do I need to install any of the canon software or plug-ins? I thought the printer color profile is in the driver as well. and aperture should pick that up fine. but for max quality printing, am i better off with the canon software? if so which one should i USE? Easy Photo Printing EX or Easy Photo Printing PRO?
last... I guess it will be nice if someone can point me the right steps to make a print after I have done everything I want to in Aperture. if you guys can give me a step by step guides for printing from Aperture 2 to Canon Pro9000 with Canon Photo Paper Pro II. and is photoshop is must have in the printing process? I really would love to stick with Aperture as much as possible. but again, quality go first...
Thank you for reading my post, and thank you even more for replying.

Challenging, yes, here is a link to a podcast on the O'Reilly website, hope this helps, I found it very useful. I actually subscribe to the podcast (via itunes) and find that there are some great topics.
http://digitalmedia.oreilly.com/pub/a/oreilly/digitalmedia/2007/02/13/insideaperturepodcast-9.html?page=last&x-maxdepth=0
Joe Schorr on Color Management in Aperture
Inside Aperture Podcast 9
by Derrick Story
02/13/2007
Joe Schorr, Apple Senior Product Manager for Aperture, covers color management in Aperture 1.5.2. He discusses the three basic areas that photographers must address in order to have consistent color throughout the workflow: Screen calibration, correct settings in the print dialog box, and adding profiles to exported images. There are some nice tips in this chat, including how to use on-screen proofing in Aperture. Derrick Story interviews Joe in this exclusive O'Reilly Media podcast. (Inside Aperture, Feb. 13, 2007: 18 minutes, 18 seconds).

Help with Aperture 3 printing to Epson R1800 please

No I haven't got the wrong forum, I think I will get the best answer here. I am a fully paid up member of the Lightroom 2 club and like to use both as I am sure others here do.
I cannot get a good print from Aperture 3, there is always a slight magenta colour cast. Prints from Lightroom and CS4 are perfect! And yes all settings are correct, I am not a beginer at this. This is with custom Permajet paper profiles and with Colormunki profiles. And as I have said prints from Lightroom and CS4 using a digital dog test print are spot on.
I remember back in earlier versions of Lightroom printing to the R1800 was problematic and the only way to get round this was to go into the ColorSync Utility and and under Devices and then the default Epson Media type, change the Current Profile to the paper profile that you wished to use. It now seems that this is also the only solution for A3. Doing this will give me an identical print to LR and CS4.
Now was this a problem with Lightroom or the R1800 driver? I am using the latest driver V6.23. Also I am using Aperture 3.0.2 and OSX 10.6.3.
I would be grateful for any help.

Hi Ian,
I am glad to hear you're getting good prints from LR and CS4. I am not aware of any outstanding issues with print color management in Lightroom (the print path is pretty solid and conforms to the OS requirements, and will perform correctly as long as the driver also conforms to the OS requirements; many recent drivers do, some older ones do not).
FYI, I understand you feel that there are forum participants here who may be able to help answer your question with Aperture. Though that may indeed be the case, that does not make it an appropriate use of this forum. (As an analogy, many forum participants here are also well-qualified to answer Photoshop questions, but Photoshop questions should be directed to the Photoshop forum, instead of here.)
Eric

Nikon D2Xs NEF not working with Aperture

This is so shocking. I should have researched more..... but I cannot believe that Nikon and Apple do not have it together on Aperture??
I just switched from the Canon 1DS, which worked like a charm with Aperture, to the Nikon D2Xs and Apertrue will not support NEF files from the camera. Frankly. I am pretty stunned. What's the deal? I find a lot of chatter in the forums about other Nikon model NEFs that are not working.
Since there are only 2 serious top of the line pro-digital SLR manufacturers out there, I would have thought that they would both be supported fully.
Nikon Tech support said that their plug-in developer kit has been available for a long time, it is up to Apple to take advantage of it.
Am I out of line here - ranting on..
Does anyone know of a solution to this issue, other than dumping Aperture and moving to Nikon's Capture NX (when they get to finally release it) and Photoshop?
Many thanks for you help in advance,
NIck

So you switched from Canon to Nikon. I decided to do
the switch vice versa. What were your reasons to pick
Nikon?
The EOS and the D2x are both very excellent cameras. Some things I find better with the D2x:
Image quality.
First off, as far as I know prints from Canon's best and Nikon's best are similarly excellent. In spite of the EOS's ~50% higher cost and additional pixels it does not provide significantly better prints. Nikon worked some pretty good engineering to achieve that.
Price.
Most photography involves price tradeoffs with faster/better lenses, etc. costing more. In the case of the D2x the arguably equal and in some ways better camera actually costs $thousands less.
Speed.
The D2x shoots RAW at 5 to 8 fps versus the EOS 4 fps. When you are trying to capture the "perfect" instant of a rapidly changing scene higher frame rates increase the likelihood of catching the perfect moment. Or if you are auto-bracketing, faster speed captures your bracketed images before the scene changes. The concept of shooting a burst of 5-20 frames just to catch the very best pic is new to most photogs, because with film it was impractical. With cameras like these DSLRs new photo workflows may evolve. [Edit: My workflow has evolved. I now shoot almost all dynamic shots and many group shots as a burst of 2-5 pix at 2-5 fps.]
8 fps Crop Mode.
The D2x will shoot 6 megapixel images taken from the center of the frame at 8 fps. So if one wants to shoot tele action shots like sports it is ideal.
Buffer capacity.
IMO a much bigger issue than fast frame rate is the buffer capacity at that fast frame rate. The D2x captures about twice as many pix (~22) as the EOS does before the buffer fills.
Card capacity.
Canon built a slower camera with 30% more pixels and that leads to less images per card, slower file transfers, etc.
LCD size.
The D2x LCD is more than 50% larger than the EOS. The larger LCD changes everything as far as the ergonomics of DSLR workflow are concerned. Just try a D2x side-by-side against the much smaller EOS LCD.
Exposure Compensation (used constantly in DSLR workflows).
+/- 5 EV for the Nikon versus +/- 3 EV for the Canon.
Weight.
Being a 200# male with large hands I don't worry about size and weight too much. The Canon does weigh almost a pound more. Dimensions are pretty similar, with the Nikon a few mm larger. If size/weight are issues the Nikon D70s and Canon 20D are much smaller but sacrifice pro features like good viewfinders.
Self-timer.
Nikon has choice of 2/5/10/20 seconds whereas Canon is only 2 or 20 seconds. I find 2 seconds is sometimes not enough to let the camera settle down on the tripod if it is extended, so typically I use 5 seconds. Using 20 seconds as a cable shutter release substitute would drive me crazy. Often this is moot because I almost always have a cable shutter release with me.
Framing.
Some folks prefer a DSLR to be the same lens factor as 35mm film. Other folks do not. Quality superwide lenses are achieved at a $500-$1500 cost while supertelephoto is a $5000-$15000 cost; personally I prefer the 1.5 factor since it extends the expensive telephoto range. However, 1:1 versus 1:1.5 is a matter of personal preference rather than one being "better" unless print quality were to suffer.
The high end EOS does beat the Nikon D2x hands down in lower noise at ISOs of 800 and above. I am not familar with the high ISO performance of the D2xs, however.
-Allen Wicks

Help getting started with Aperture

Hello, Can anyone advise please. I am getting an imac, and have decided to work with Aperture & NIK plug-ins, and also change from NEF files from my D90 to DNG (I have been using Capture NX2, but have run out of patience with Nikon, and can't risk there being no future with Nikon software).
I understand, or think I do, that I can change NEFs to DNGs within Aperture, and these are converted to TIFFs automatically after work in NIK (kindly correct me if I am wrong). Also that Aperture keeps the original DNG, which holds any work done in Aperture, plus a TIFF copy that includes the sum of the work done in both Aperture & NIK
3 questions please if I may:
1) I wonder if I should do all possible work in Aperture first, so most is in the DNG, and only then open with NIK plug-in(s), at which time the TIFF is produced. Does this really matter, and is there any benefit/need to do any work, such as sharpening/noise reduction in NIK first, or could this sort of thing be done after working in Aperture - just keep hearing of importance of staying RAW as much as possible, so worried about going straight to TIFF and then doing ALL the editing in TIFF format
2) In nikon View/NX2 I have been used to (and like) seeing my folder tree. I currently make folders for each different location I shoot at, Then sub-folders titled with date yymmdd and location name again + numbered 001,002 etc.
Could/should I either a) have Aperture do this so I can easilly find/see my folders, and /or b) and/or copy my photos to manually made folder tree on my desk top or wherever on mac hard drive, and then copy or move from there into Aperture (or can Aperture be just 'pointed' to the folder tree
3) Can you suggest best way for me to move files from either view nx/nx2, or from external hard drive where I have copies of my NEFS
I appreciate your help, so I can get going with Aperture and my imac, Thanks

I understand, or think I do, that I can change NEFs to DNGs within Aperture
No you need to convert to DNG before importing into Aperture. But way are you converting, doesn;t Aperture handle the RAW files from your camera? I'm pretty sure the D90 is supported.
When you edit an image using an external editor or plug-in Aperture creates a separate 'master' image and sends that to the external program. I the case of NIK plug-ins I do believe they work in TIFF. When the external program is done that 2nd image is stored in the Aperture library.
To question 1, I would do the initial work in Aperture and then work in the external program. I figure I want the best possible image to work on with the external app.
For question 2 you will need some time to learn the layout and workings of the Aperture library. You will need to decide if you will be using a managed or referenced scheme for your masters. There are many good posts here on this subject. Look for posts by Kirby Krieger specifically he's covered these questions in depth.
Not sure about 3 are you asking how to get your images into Aperture? Or something else?
good luck
regards

The New iPad and iPhoto: will they play nicely with Aperture

After seeing the awesome demonstration of the the iPhoto for the The New iPad I am excited to use it once my new iPad is delivered.
However, long ago, I abandonded iPhoto on my Mac for Aperture.
Does anyone have any idea if iPhoto on the iPad can share/sync photos with Aperture on the Mac? I'm guessing so. Would love to be able to use the iPad to sort through, edit, delete, photos, then have them sync so they are available in Aperture. I'm sure this will be available through PhotoStream, but with its limit of 1000 photos, that's not exactly what I'm hoping for.
Any thoughts?

Hi Terence,
You are right in many aspects, in particular when it comes to doing edits on a tablet to a photograph... Being a photographer I see no point in editing photographs on a display that will not show true colours to begin with... And in fact the fact that both Aperture and Lightroom do not support editing within colour channels (only photoshop does to my knowledge) makes them both very clumsy tools apart from two important functions: 1 sorting and previewing 2 adjusting exposure (and ONLY exposure). Aperture has a better RAW converter than Lightroom this is the only reason for using Aperture over Lightroom (OK it is user friendlier too).
The only Workflow support a tablet CAN and should provide professionally speaking is pre-sorting, ratings, colour labeling, possibly croppings. Everything else should be manioulaated on a big true colour screen and preferably within the colour channels in Hotoshop.
That means all the iPad needs to provide is: 1) an upload from you camera directly into the iPad (check) 2) a sorting, labeling and rating function.
Ironically the second function does exist -- for Lightroom .... The app is called Photosmith and works like a charm. Unfortunately Lightrooms RAW converter isn't great so then I have to export from Lightroom back to several folder mimicking my various rating and sortings and then re-import to Aperture... Yes we're in 2012! And yes we are talking of the prime product of the most highly valued Technology company called Apple
I'm going at length to explain this because a) I'm increasingly frustrated at Apple's complete misregard for real professional needs (which seems to grow exponantionally with every success they celebrate in the consumer market) and b) frustrated with the ipad - being one of my worst purchases in 2011. Not because it isn't cool, but because it is simply being artificially cut in functionality just so that Apple may sell more Macbooks.
Because the only true reason for a laptop these days is either you are constantly travelling - and I mean constantly... which few people truely are... or you're working in a remote location... Or your iPad just doesn't perform enough even for basics so that you still need to take a laptop even if you're away for just a week or two and intheory all you need is email and an app to rate and colour code the images you took, and possibly upload them to a server so that an assistant can take care of the rest - because you're too busy to be actually retouching images anyway...
I hope Tim Cook will change a few things - he does seem a bit less stubborn. I am hoping for the best because I know a few people within my circles (we're all early adopters and were proud owners of the Titanium Powerbook) who are already thinking of alternatives... Cheers

My iphone 4s and ipad 2 both with 7.0.4 update will no longer connect to wifi but non-mac lap top has no issues

my iphone 4s and ipad2 both with 7.0.4 update will no longer connect to wifi.
About three days ago the ability to connect came and went and the connection never lasted more than 10-15 minutes; it has not been able to connect since last night. I do not think it's my wifi router as non-mac lap top has no issues. I have seem many similar questions posted.

Reboot your router by removing all power from it for about 15 seconds. Also, if your router still has its default SSID (such as LINKSYS, DLINK, NETGEAR, etc) change the SSID to something unique. Note that all other devices on your network will have to be reconnected if you change the name, but if the name is still the default that is most likely your problem.
If the SSID is not the default then the reboot should fix it.

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