Should I buy a new board?

Im looking at maxing out my CPU on my K7n2-Delta L board
2.2Ghz is the fastest cpu the board will take.
Need help making up my mind.
I have $100-150 to spend.
DO I buy the new cpu?
Do I buy a new board/CPU combo?
The new board must be able to take x8AGP
Enermax p365 PSU
IDE
ALSO MAJOR here It must be 100% compatable with DDR PC3200 • CL=3 • UNBUFFERED • NON-ECC • DDR400 • 2.6V • 128Meg x 64 Crucial Ram.
So, do I look at BOARD/CPU upgrade or should I just max out the cpu for the board I have?

Quote from: Glenn on 23-August-05, 07:13:51
Save your money and by an Athlon 64. You'd be pissing away your money. You won't get much more that is unless I am reading your first post incorrectly.
What are you saying here? You ONLY have 128MB RAM or what?
More RAM will give you a boost, spend that money on some good RAM that will go in your next system. For instance some good Mushkin http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820146355
Otherwise save your money I personally think it would be a waste ATM.
BHA! No I cut and past the wrong one in sorry. I have 2 sticks 1GiG each. Total of 2 gigs in Dual Channel mode. It is Crucal DDR400 ram

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Video Information: ℹ️
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System Software: ℹ️
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Disk Information: ℹ️
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        EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
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Hi,
I was wondering if I should buy the new Macbook pro 13 inch, or keep my old 2010 1.4 C2D Macbook Air. I am not satisfied with the tiny 64GB SSD that my current Macbook Air has, because just a few weeks after I had done a clean reinstall of OSX Lion, the whole disk almost filled up. The one thing I do like about the Macbook Air, however is the speed of the SSD. Its really quick, and it boots in under 20 seconds. The Air didn't have many performance issues (other than overheating like crazy after playing a few graphics-intensive games).
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I went through this same thing when I purchased my first Mac 3 days ago, also between the 13 inch MBA and MBP. I ended up deicding with the 13inch MBP, here's why:
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5. Bootcamp, as well I plan to run Windows 7 on mine and Windows 7 takes a good amount of space so this is another spot where the larger hard drive of the MBP comes in handy. You could always have an external hard drive and run Windows 7 off of that on an Air but then you would have to have it always plugged in when you wanted to run Windows 7.
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Hi! I have a 5.5-year-old Macbook4.1, and I've been having problems with the display. I googled the problem and found out that I've got a wonky inverter cable. Apparently, the part itself is relatively cheap, but the labor (which involves taking nearly the whole laptop apart) means that the repair is expensive. The quote I got (in Germany, where I live) is 200 euros.
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go on give it a go! what have you got to lose;
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Core+2+Duo+Inverter+Cable+Replacement/4772

Should I buy a new laptop? Or fix it with more RAM?

Dear all,
After a few years (since mid 2009) of happy relationship with my Macbook Pro, the last year I have noticed a severe decline in speed in all applications as well as a lot of apps crashing or not responding regulary. Me and my laptop have survived this long thanks to this forum where I am usually able to find solutions to various problems and by experimenting with "home fixes", despite my lack of technical knowledge.
I live abroad in a country without access to proper computor service centers etc, however I am visiting Europe next week and I need to take the decision on whether it is worth fixing my laptop or if the best option sis just to buy a new one.
After my attempts to troubleshoot and after reading up on this forum I am suspecting that the cause of the problems might have something to do with RAM or the proccessor. I do run a lot of heavy apps such as photoshop, premier pro, indesign, firefox, lightroom etc. I have always been able to work efficiently while having several apps running at the same time (for example firefox, word, indesign and photoshop) however since a while back i can't run more than 1-2 apps at the same time without the computer crashing or getting paralysed. The beach ball is spinning for minutes after each click which is very frustrating when working with details in for example photoshop. I have tried to clean up the computor with Onyx a few weeks ago which I think improved it a little bit. My 500GB harddisk is less than half full.
I would really appreciate your advise on my options of fixing the issue or just buying a new computer. Below are some details about my laptop.
Millions of thanks in advance!
Best,
Hanna
Processor: 2.26 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 2 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256MB
Software: OSX Version 10.8.3

I think 8G of memory may be good enough to run Adobe suite and Office.
No, there is no such risk.
Following shop has memory you need, though if you think you couldn't hadle to upgrade RAM, take it to Apple Store's Genius Bar to ask about upgrading RAM.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Apple_MacBook_MacBook_Pro/Upgrade/DDR3
-- kaz-k
PS/ You'd better ask about your question at MacBook Pro discussion board.
https://discussions.apple.com/community/notebooks/macbook_pro

Dropped and now it won't charge... should I buy a new mac? HELP!

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You need to look around for the best price. While there are a number of sites that sell parts, ifixit.com, pbparts.com, and powerbookmedic.com are three you might look at. powerbookmedic says their parts are new, others may be used. Also, there are two DC-in cards for the 1.5Ghz system. The first covers production to Jan 2005 and is common with the 1.33Ghz system, and the second covers from Jan 2005 forward, and is common with the 1.67Ghz system. If you don't know which model you're system is or when it was produced, go to this site and enter the serial number: http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html .
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Cheers!

ccshaw wrote:
Wouldn't it just make sense to put the money for the 7200rpm drive towards one more upgrade on the MBP? I could just cut that up front cost.
You can choose to forgo the hard drive upgrade, however 250GB is quite small, meaning your likely using a great portion of the second 50% of the drive, which the read/wrire performance is substancially reduced.
7,200 RPM doesn't make that much of a battery life dent that one will notice it, but one will notice the speedier response.
S0 by incrreasing the RPM's and the storage size, plus newer drive with better read/write speeds through technology improvments combined with a zero erase + fresh install of 10.6.1 (your original disks) and Software Updated to 10.6.8 (10.7 is slow) should make a dramatic improvement on that model.
However a erase + fresh install of 10.6 on that present 250GB can do the job well too, 10.7 is slow and you likely have other problems the 10.6 install will also cure.
How to erase and install Snow Leopard 10.6
How to revert your Mac to Snow Leopard
I'm not sure where I can get a copy of 10.6.8. Do you know where I could obtain that?
Your computer came with 10.6.1 install disks, hold c or option key down and boot off the disks, use Disk Utility to erase the entire drive (select the drive makers name and size on the left) with Security Option > Zero all data, wait, then when finished quit and install 10.6.1 and Software Update fully to 10.6.8.
If you no longer have the 10.6.1 disks, call Apple for a machine specific replacement disks for your 2009 Late 13" White MacBook.
You can also use the $29 10.6.3 white Snow Leopard retail disks sold here
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573Z/A
f it turns out that I do need Windows for class applications, do I install it on a partition by using disk utility and partitioning my HD (also, how big does that partition for windows need to be)?
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1: Apple's Bootcamp, which takes the bottom free space on your boot drive (250GB isn't much if you have a lot of OSX data) and allows you to direct install Windows 7 (only) there.
2: Virtual machine software, which allows one to run Windows (any flavor and Linux's) in a window in OS X.
You can read about both (pro's and cons) here:
Windows in BootCamp or Virtual Machine?

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Hello everybody,
Sorry about my English firstly. I got a warning about charger. Not supporting or something like that. I tried to turn the usb port. Last night, it worked, but now it doesnt work anymore. Should i go to the MediaMarkt with my guarantee file or buy a new one? What should i do?
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Yosemite RUNS BADLY ON MY MAC MINI; SHOULD I BUY A NEW MINI?

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When you see a beachball cursor or the slowness is especially bad, note the exact time: hour, minute, second.
These instructions must be carried out as an administrator. If you have only one user account, you are the administrator.
Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
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☞ Open LaunchPad and start typing the name.
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from the menu bar at the top of the screen.
Each message in the log begins with the date and time when it was entered. Scroll back to the time you noted above.
Select the messages entered from then until the end of the episode, or until they start to repeat, whichever comes first.
Copy the messages to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message by pressing command-V.
The log contains a vast amount of information, almost all of it useless for solving any particular problem. When posting a log extract, be selective. A few dozen lines are almost always more than enough.
Please don't indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Please don't post screenshots of log messages—post the text.
Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting.

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