Should I partition my internal HD 500G for MacBook Pro ??

Should I partitioning my internal HD 500G ?

In that case really what you want is an external HD for a Time Machine Back-up or a Bootable clone backup.
http://www.maclife.com/article/howtos/how_make_bootable_clone_your_mac
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1427
If the internal HD fails all partitions fail along with it.
Command R for Recovery is worth reading up on as well. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718

Similar Messages

Internal Hard drive for macBook pro 13 inch.

Hello everybody :")
How are you? I hope that everyone is fine.
I have come today i need your opinion and your advice to me about my (HDD)
i need to buy new HD for my book pro .
Can you answer my questions and give me advice
frist i will write for you my MBP information :
MacBook Pro 13 inch - 4 GB memory - the old HD is 320 GB 5400 rpm - Processor i5 dual core .
made in 2010
* note :Almost i'm not interested in (SSD) because the price is expensive SSD to storage capacity that can i give it .
               HDD was excellent with me .
-What are the types of HDD which advise me?
- what best HDD for macbook pro ? ( toshiba or WD )
- how I choose from among types of HDD ?
-How do I know what types are compatible with my device? Is there site or previous experience advise can help me !
What your opinion about this kind:
Seagate Momentus XT 750 GB 7200RPM
are good for my MBP ?
I care about the quality, performance and more than speed.
Thank you in advance
I hope to help me soon

Di.grad
toshiba 1.tb and 7200 RPM ?
Those are same as use by Apple in the non-retina macbook Pro, Ive got piles of them, only a Hitachi is better.
Toshiba HD are a hair noisy even by Toshiba own admission, but no big deal.
I would NEVER buy from OWC merely for the reasons that their prices are miserable.
Here you go,   $65
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOSHIBA-MQ01ABD100-1TB-5400-RPM-8MB-Cache-2-5-SATA-3-0Gb -s-Internal-Notebook-/121107538930?pt=US_Internal_Hard_Disk_Drives&hash=item1c32 9263f2
same as used by APPLE in their own.

PLEASE HELP me select new internal hard drive for Macbook Pro 2012 (non-retina)

Good afternoon.
I just bought a Macbook Pro 2012 (non-retina) 15 inch from a friend. I think it is running Mountain Lion (has not been upgraded to Mavericks yet), and has iLife on it. It came with the stock 500 gb 5400 rpm internal hard drive. At home, I only have the Snow Leopard OS installation Cds and a copy of iLife 2011 installation Cds. I am going to buy 16 gb of RAM from Other World Computing to install.
I want to replace the hard drive with a 1 tb hard drive, preferably something that is $100 or less.
I talked to Other World Computing (OWC) and looked at the Data Doubler Option to replace the optical drive with a Solid State drive, but decided that for now I want to keep the optical drive inside the computer for portability issues.
I know that Solid State drives are better, but they are still too small, and I want the ease and portability of a 1 tb size INSIDE my computer.
Initially I was going to order this from Other World Computing: 1.0TB 2.5" HGST Travelstar 7K1000 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s 9.5mm Notebook Drive 32MB Cache. *'New' Factory Replacement with 2+ Year HGST Warranty*    As of April 4, 2014 it's on sale for $79
But then I started reading some of the discussions online and thought maybe I should get a hybrid solid state drive?
I saw on Amazon the Seagate 1TB Solid State Hybrid Drive SATA 6Gbps 64MB Cache 2.5-Inch ST1000LM014 It's on sale for $94.
But according to some reviews, this Seagate has a platter that is only 5400rpm, unlike the previous Seagate Momentum that has a platter speed of 7200rpm.
How reliable are the Seagate, versus a Toshiba or Western Digital or Hitachi or something else?
Here are my questions about replacing the hard drive:
1. Is a hybrid solid state drive going to need some kind of special formatting after I put it into the macbook so that I can put the operating system on it?
2. Is a "normal" platter hard drive more reliable than a hybrid solid state drive?
3. Is there any additional driver or special software that I have to install for a hybrid solid state drive?
4. Currently there is no personal data stored on the computer. Can I just put the new hard drive in, and then insert the snow leopard install cd?
5. If I install snow leopard, can I just go to the App store and get the free upgrade to Mavericks?
6. If I want to do the "Data Doubler" option in the future and add a normal Solid State drive into my computer, will it have trouble interacting with the 1 tb hybrid solid state drive?
I would love to get some recommendations about the smartest option to upgrade my hard drive with something that will be fast (I edit lots of photos) and large (1 tb) that isn't going to cost too much. I don't know much about the different brands or options (and there are so many listed in tons of online reviews), that I got really overwhelmed and confused by the info out there.
I would really appreciate any help and advice. I've never switched out a hard drive before.
PLEASE HELP !!! Thanks!
Here is the "About this Mac" Info:
Macbook Pro 15-in Mid 2012
Model Identifier: MacBookPro9,1
Processor: 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory: 4 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Software: OS x 10.8.5
Storage (Hard drive): APPLE HDD ST500LM012 Media, Rotational, SATA, GPT (GUID Partition Table)

1. Is a hybrid solid state drive going to need some kind of special formatting after I put it into the macbook so that I can put the operating system on it?
The boot drive, regardless of what it is, needs to be formatted as Mac OS Extended (Journaled). This is standard with OS X.
2. Is a "normal" platter hard drive more reliable than a hybrid solid state drive?
There are arguments pro and con. Bottom line, SSD's and hybrid drives are still quite expensive per GB than standard hard drives. If you have the bucks and are a speed demon, go ahead.   I have better use for my money.   Standard hard drives are mechanical and may wear out over time. But even though SSDs are not mechancial, they can still go bad and ultimately they even have a limit to their write capacity. The jury is still out on this debate.
3. Is there any additional driver or special software that I have to install for a hybrid solid state drive?
No
4. Currently there is no personal data stored on the computer. Can I just put the new hard drive in, and then insert the snow leopard install cd?
You can physically put the hard drive in but probably not install Snow Leopard on this MBP.
The mid-2012 MacBookPro9,1 models came with Lion 10.7.3 (11D2097) preinstalled.   It is very unlikely you would be able to install Snow Leopard on it. Historically you cannot install a version of OS X that is earlier than the version that came with your Mac (even if you replace the hard drive).
5. If I install snow leopard, can I just go to the App store and get the free upgrade to Mavericks?
Not via Snow Leopard on this MBP. See my response to #4.
6. If I want to do the "Data Doubler" option in the future and add a normal Solid State drive into my computer, will it have trouble interacting with the 1 tb hybrid solid state drive?
No. They are completely independent of each other; they are just independent storage units (drives) and their RAM does not interact.

What are the things required to upgrade internal hard drive For Macbook Pro mid 2012 13 inch?

Hi,
I want to upgrade my internal drive but I don't know how to do that. I have already purchased a WD 1TB internal hard drive. However, I contacted apple support and they said if I try to upgrade the hdd myself, then the warranty of the macbook would be void. I am from India . I currently have a Macbook Pro mid 2012,13 inch.
Also, do i need to download a setup of Yosemite before changing the hdd?
Please guide me
Thanks and Regards
Abhineet Arora

You know what the impact will be on the warranty terms. If you want to install it yourself, look at this video:
http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/macbookpro_13_unibody_mid12_hd/
It is not very difficult. You will need a #00 Phillips and a #6 Torx drivers.
Ciao.

How can I know if my new internal hd for macbook pro is compatible?

I have been trying to upgrade my internal HD for macbook pro early 2008 2.4 and have been having a hard time getting it to boot. Problems with both WD and Seagate. I am wondering if the problem is with Mavericks. I got a good back up from Time Machine to load on the hybrid drive. Then when I try to restart it shows the apply symbol with no chime and then a black screen comes over the blue screen with some code (strange problem I have never seen) I can see that all the data is on the drive. I was able to partitian in disk utility. Anything ringing a bell. I have done several switches like this and this is the first time I have had so much trouble. I reinstalled my old drive just to make sure there was not another hardward issue and everything is fine there. In fact I have a new logic board freshly installed by mac.

Your machine has a SATA 2 interface and I'm sure the new drives are SATA 3. They should still step down and work though. It's possible your SATA cable is marginal and the newer drive is trying to demand more out of it than the old one did. A good test would be to put the new drive in an external enclosure and see if it works ok from there. If so, it's probably the cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Aluminum-Enclosure-EC-TB4P/dp/B005EIGUD4/ ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394657992&sr=1-2&keywords=2.5+enclosure
How did you install Mavericks on the new drive?

How to upgrade my internal hard drive for macbook 5,2 from 160GB to 1TB?

Hello,
I wonder if you can please help me out.
I wonder, is it possible to upgrade my internal hard drive for macbook 5,2 from 160GB to 1TB?
Thanks,

There's only one 9.5mm high 1tb drive around http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Samsung/HNM101MBB/
With a video on replacing the hard drive http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/macbook_13_mem_hd/

Should i go for macbook pro 13" or air 13"

hey guys, now that i've been new macbook pro has come out light, thinner and with extra 4GB RAM, i just do not know if i should get macbook air or pro.
I am a college student where power ports are readily available in my campus. so battery life of 7~8 hours and up are totally fine.
Pros for macbook pro are:
BEAUTIFUL screen
better CPU & GPU (even though there may only be slight difference)
Good palm rest
Pros for macbook air are:
LIGHT AND THIN
EXTREMELY GOOD battery life
I have seen many reviews where they said difference in size and weight is negligible for a person with healthy body (lol) but also CPU and GPU difference are also negligible since it doesn't differ very much in terms of performance.
I do not know if those are true, but regardless, i wanted to get some advices from people who owns pro, air or even both.
Thanks in advance guys !
ps. i heard apple might come up with RETINA displace macbook air in late 2014 or early 2015. is it trust able?

Yes, you should be able to dual boot Windows 7 and above using a built-in utility called 'Bootcamp'. I personally has boot camped Windows 7 and Windows 8.1. Installing Windows only took about 10 minutes (lightning fast) and all the drivers installed correctly. Windows has never looked better =D
However, I will report one issue. In OS X Mavericks, you can use multi-touch gestures to interact with the system, for example two-finger scrolling, or pinch-to-zoom. In Windows, these multitouch gestures do not work on the trackpad at all. For me it was frustrating, and I ended up deleting Windows simply because of the fact that multi-touch is not supported by Windows. However, basic trackpad functions work, for example tracking, right-clicking, and dragging windows.
All other drivers are fully functional. If you need any assistance with Bootcamp, visit the Apple Support website, or just post in this same forum and I will be glad to help you.

HT3211 Should we press to click on something in macbook pro ? Mine is not touch for clicking !!

Should we press to click on something in macbook pro ? Mine is not touch for clicking !! I mean i must push the trackpad to click but for other functions it is touch and it doesnt need to be pushed ! Is it broken ?

Not necessarily. Do you have Tap to Click turned on?

Internal HDD installation guide for MacBook Pro 13" mid-2012 model

Hello,
Can someone please share any step by step guides or instructional videos for installing a new internal HDD in a MacBook Pro 13" mid-2012 model. Also, please advise on how to format the new HDD as it is an unformatted one.
Thanks in advance!

To format your new HDD, connect it to your MBP and open Disk Utility>Erase. Select Mac OS Extended (Journaled) and then clone the data from the internal HDD to the new external one. You may use Disk Utility>Restore or use Carbon Copy Cloner (third party software) to do the cloning. Test the new HDD via Startup manager and then perform the swap.
Ciao.

S apple coming out with a new version for Macbook Pro MD101HN/A ? what should i go for Macbook Pro or Macbook air since my usage are basic mainy internet , word , excel , powerpoint etc.

Is apple coming out with a new version for Macbook Pro MD101HN/A ? what should i go for Macbook Pro or Macbook air since my usage are basic mainy internet , word , excel , powerpoint etc.

souvikfromKolkata,
you’ll know as soon as the rest of us do if Apple decide to produce a new non-Retina model. My guess would be that they won’t do so, but that’s only a guess.
With Internet, Word, Excel, and PowerPoint representing your main usage, either a MacBook Pro or a MacBook Air would be suitable for you.

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Need HDCP-recognizing Bootcamp Windows driver for MacBook Pro's screen

I need a Bootcamp Windows driver for my MacBook Pro 15/Retina (MBR) that recognizes that the MBR's built-in screen in HDCP-compliant. The current Bootcamp drivers for Windows do recognized HDCP on an external HDMI-connected display, but do not recognized HDCP on the internal display.
BTW, I've read some statements that Windows drivers don't recognize HDCP via DisplayPort connections, so I wonder if Apple is using internal wiring that acts like it's a DisplayPort connection?
Please do not suggest things that only enable disabling DRM HDCP protection from Blu-Ray discs. I need a solution that to cooperate with DRM HDCP protection for content from live tuners, not from a Blu-Ray or DVD disc.
My application is using Windows Media Center (WMC) to play streaming content from my Silicon Dust HD HomeRun Prime (HDHR3) cable TV tuner on my MBR's built-in screen. This works fine with an external HDMI-connected (HDCP-capable) display, but I also want to get this working on my laptop's screen for when I'm stuck in bed (illness, bad back, etc.). The only application Silicon Dust offers for viewing HDHR3 tuner output on Windows (or any platform, as far as I know) which supports all protected cable channels is WMC, and WMC relies on the Apple-provided Windows NVIDIA drivers for HDCP capability. The NVIDIA Control Panel explicitly recognizes my external HDMI-connected monitor's HDCP capability, but does not recognize the MBR's internal screen has having any HDCP. This causes WMC to prevent the display of any TV channels at all from the HDHR3 when the only screen is the internal one (and it blocks DRM-protected channels if both screens are active in parallel).
I'm thinking that the best solution would be an NVIDIA driver for the built-in GeForce GT 650M for Windows 8 (or 7) which recognizes HDCP capability via DisplayPort. Is there anything like that? Or, alternately, some add-in driver that adds a layer of HDCP capability recognition to the standard drivers?
Is there any currently-available solution? . . . something that will enable the internal screen to play all the tuner's cable channels including DRM-protected ones (either on Bootcamp'ed Windows or on the OS X side)?
P.S. -- FYI, the only other potential app I've read about for using an external tuner with a MacBook is an OS X version of MythTV, but (a) that requires an excessively long list of geek tweek steps (install an SQL application, create an SQL database, do lots of command-line tweaks, add & configure a backend app and then a frontend app, ... ) and (b) even then it seems it doesn't support channels that aren't marked "copy-freely", i.e., HDCP-enabled DRM protected content.

Strange -- sig's comment seems gone now. I wonder why.
Anyway, I did try the latests NVidia drivers yesterday, afterall they explicitly say they added HDCP over DisplayPort, but no joy. In the NVidia control panel (for Windows), external displays via HDMI have a left-menu section for HDCP that explicitly shows it's working, but there is still no such indication for the internal display, and I am still unable to use WMC with HD HomeRun Prime cablecard tuner to play anything on the screen except channels that the provider marks "copy freely" (e.g., Bloomberg news channel 722 isn't playable, but MSNBC 723 is playable).
My guess is that maybe laptop internal displays don't explicitly have internal DisplayPort and HDCP technology but have some kind of exception that normally allows playback?
As an alternative I wish there were cablecard tuner playback software on the OS X side that could play more than "copy freely" cablecard-tuned material, but there doesn't seem to be anything comparable to Windows Media Player that supports that. (Now it should be clearer why this discussion belongs under MacBook Pro and not under Bootcamp where the moderators moved it.)

Operating Temperature Limit for MacBook Pro

The specifications, for MacBook Pro, mention that the operating temperature is 10 to 35 Deg C. Does it mean that MacBook Pro will not function above 35 Deg C? Is it recommended to operate MacBook Pro always in an air-conditioned environment? As I plan to buy for the 1st time, I seek an answer.

You will find that if you use applications that are CPU intensive the internal temperature can go over 100 C. This actually is within the safe operating parameters of the MBP. Should the temperatures become excessive, there are heat sensors that will activate a shutdown so that no damage will occur.
You might download from the Internet a utility called iStat pro that will show you the internal temperatures of your MBP and the fan speeds. You can then correlate this information with Activity Monitor data and determine if the temperatures are normal for the given circumstances.
Ciao.

I bought the wrong version as I need it for macbook pro but somehow bought windows...help

I guess I will have to wait until normal office hours. I have no idea why it bought the window version as I did not realize that is what was selected. I hope I can get it exchanged for the photoshop elements 13 for macbook pro retina display. Anyone know if this is an easy switch and one they will do?

When buying HD versions of shows, only the HD copy will automatically download now (probably due to requests from people who don't need/want the SD version and complained about it being forced on them). The SD copy can be downloaded from your purchases area in iTunes, though. On the main iTunes Store page, go to Purchases under the Quick Links and then select TV shows. Click the "Not On This Computer" button. Uncheck the "Download HD when available" box and you should then see the SD copies of the shows and be able to download them.
Regards.

How can I disable the internal display on my MacBook Pro with connected external display?

I used this metod with the MagSafe power cable connected (see http://osxdaily.com/2012/06/15/yet-another-way-to-turn-off-internal-lcd-display- of-macbook-pro-with-lid-open/).
Open System Preferences and click “Mission Control”, then click on “Hot Corners”
Select a hot corner and pull down the menu to select “Put Display to Sleep”
Now connect the external display to the Mac and move the cursor to the newly created sleep corner to turn off the internal display
Close the MacBook lid and wait a few seconds before opening the lid again, the internal display should stay off while the external display will be powered on
This worked great under Mac OS X 10.7.4, but after the last update to 10.7.5 it doesn’t work more. The built-in display turns off really, but a few seconds after opening the lid it lights up again. Do you have any suggestions? Dimming the brightness or clamshell mode is not very useful.
MacBook Pro 13-inch,
2,7 GHz Intel Core i7,
Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5 (11G56)
Thanks!

I have the same problem: not able to work with my external display mirroring the internal one - while shutting the internal display off.
I believe there is an issue with Mac OS X Lion 7.5 that Apple needs to solve, since apparently it does not happen with this version of the OS only...
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4315808?start=45&tstart=0
Or any other way to solve it?
Mac Book Air, 13-inch Mid 2011
Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5 11G63
Thank you!

Should I partition my internal HD 500G for MacBook Pro ??

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