Simple solutions for cinematic look with 60i video?

I'm sure this questions pops up over and over but I'm getting a huge headache trying to sort everything out through my searches, especially as a beginner to the film making world. I'll get right to my questions, but first here is the equipment I am working with:
Camcorder = Sony HDR-XR500, shooting in 1920 x 1080 60i AVCHD format
Software = CS4 Creative Suite
I recently threw together a 10 min movie of a trip I just arrived back from using Premiere Pro, and while it was a lot of fun putting together I really have no idea if I went about it the right way. I want to practice taking a clip of mine and converting it to that cinematic look, and hope someone can help guide me through some steps.
Here is what I want to achieve:
- 2.35:1 pixel ratio
- 24p or similar effect (trying to figure this out makes my head spin)
I know color correction has a lot to do with the cinematic look, but I realize there are many ways of going about this so I'll refrain from asking any questions in regards to this for now. (I did find using the Fast Color Corrector and setting Saturation to 75%, and Input levels to 20, 1, 220 gave a nice film look)
Step 1: What settings should I use to create my new project?
Capture Format = HDV?
For the sequence presets should I use AVCHD 1080i30 (60i) non-anamorophic?
Step 2: If I want to create a 2.35:1 aspect ratio, should I simply crop my clip? I think I read somewhere for 1920 x 1080 video, crop 14% from top and bottom? Or should I crop when I export out the movie?
Step 3: What would be the simplest/quickest way of getting that 24fps look using Premiere Pro or After Effects? I know shooting in 24p is obviously the easiest way, but should I simply deinterlace my 60i video by right clicking clip>Field Options> Always deinterlace to achieve similar effect?
Step 4: Exporting video....again so many options I'm not sure what to do here. Basically, could someone provide me with the best exporting options for the format I'm trying to achieve for:
- Posting on Internet
- Viewing on computer
- And viewing on blu-ray
I really appreciate any help to the above questions. Big thanks!

Step 1: Capture settings are irrelevant for AVCHD on that camera. Just copy the entire folder structure intact to your hard drive. Pr will find the copied footage through the Media Browser panel. You may even be able to edit directly from the camera's HDD. You should try it and see.
Step 2: 1920x816 produces a 2.35:1 aspect ratio. Assuming all of your action occurs in the exact vertical center of the shot, then you should crop 132 pixels from top and bottom. Placing your 1080 footage into a custom progressive sequence of those dimensions should get you what you want, as long as you don't have Default scale to frame size selected in Preferences.
Step 3: This is the tough one. To get 24 fps out of 30 fps, one frame out of every 5 needs to be dropped. This will produce perceptually jerky playback, especially if any motion at all is present. So the remaining frames must be blended together in some way to smooth out the bump where the missing frame is. Using AE to accomplish this is, IMHO, the best solution for an all-CS4 workflow. In AE, you have 2 choices: Frame Mix and Pixel Motion. PM produces better results, but FM renders faster. If you haven't done any editing of the clips in Pr yet, then the best idea would be to convert all of the footage in AE before importing it into Pr. If you've already got edits in place in Pr, then you can select all of the clips in the sequence and choose File | Adobe Dynamic Link | Replace with After Effects Composition. Either way, each clip in AE must be individually interpreted to Separate Fields/Preserve Edges. The comp settings must be set to 24p. Then Frame Blending must be enabled for the comp, and finally, each Frame Blending Layer Switch must be set to either Frame Mix or Pixel Motion. If you do use Dynamic Link, be sure to turn *off* Frame Blending in Pr, because AE has already taken care of that.
Step 4: Because rendering will be so intensive and take so long, I recommend exporting an intermediate file from Pr, then re-importing that file to be used as the source for the various export formats. Otherwise, you'll have to render all over again for each individual export format. For web, I recommend Flash. For computer viewing, it depends on your delivery method (CD, DVD, Download, External Hard Drive, Flash Drive, etc.). For Blu-ray, either H.264 Blu-ray or MPEG2 Blu-ray.
-Jeff

Similar Messages

Looking for a nice solution for different cases with nearly same operations

Hi everybody:
I'm looking for a nice solution for the following problem:
I'm measuring different data at the same time (with different devices).
I would like to save these data all in one array (or cluster?), but I
don't know exactly the way to do this. All values have corresponding
time values. So for one data type it would result in a 2d array,
wouldn't it? But how can I save different data types with their time
values in one array? Or should I take a cluster? And how can I get only
a certain type of data out of this array or cluster again? E.g. if I
only need data type "3" with its time stamps for evaluation? I would
really appreciate an example, I work with LV 7. Thanks!
Then - for evaluation - I only need one data type of these different
data. Which one I would like to choose via the frontpanel (it changes
from test to test). So, I thought of a case structure (where I can
choose which data type and correspondingly which evaluation way). The
evaluation steps for the different data types are quite the same, but
can vary in order of execution. I could write for every case the
(nearly) same evaluation steps, but this would take a lot of time, plus
if I need to change one step I need to change it in every case.
Does anybody know a better way?
Thank you very much in advance,
Steffi

steffi.kono wrote:
In this example I have four arrays, which I would like to save alltogether in one file. First column should consists of time stamps, second column of value type 1, third column of value type 2, ... How can I solve this?
Built the 4 1D arrays into a 2D array, the use write to spreadsheet file.
steffi.kono wrote:
And, after that, how can I display only the second coulmn (e.g.) and time stamps in a waveform chart from this file? Or how can I say in LabVIEW: "display the last 30 values of column three over the time in a waveform chart"?
There is "array subset", which allows you to get any desired subset from an array. If yoyu want entire rows or colums, use "index array".
To display the last 30 values in a chart, just feed the data to a chart with the history size set to 30 elements. The rest will fall into place.
LabVIEW Champion . Do more with less code and in less time .

How to get the cinematic look with FCE 4?

I have an hdr-sr 10 camera with avchd and am using FCE 4.
How or what are the steps I need to take to get that film or cinematic look? Is there a special combination of filters I need to use? Is there a setting on the camera I need to use as well?
Mike

Light the scene carefully.
Turn off detail enhancement on the camera.
Never zoom; move the camera instead--using a home-made dolly, for example.
Try to set up your shots to decrease depth of field,
by setting your aperture to the smallest number (f1.8)
and keeping your optical zoom maxed out--if possible.
Use zebra stripes; never overexpose.
Shoot multiple takes from different angles.
Get your microphone close to the talent.
Turn off auto-focus and auto-exposure.
Turn on Progressive Shutter Mode.
Use a tripod to make sure your establishing shots are rock steady.
Edit without dissolves, unless you're showing the passage of time.
Check out whether these filters will work with FCE4:
http://pistolerapost.com/pluginz/index.html
Go to Ken Stone's site, and scroll down to Film Look:
http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/fcp_homepageindex.html
When shooting, wear a beret.

Possible solution for headphone problems with Mac Mini

A month or two ago, I posted a question about problems I was having with getting earphones and earbuds to work with my mid-2010 Mac Mini. I just wanted to share the (quite simple) solution that solved my problem.
My problem: I couldn't get any earphones or earbuds to work with my Mini, despite my trying several different sets. Finally I took my Mini into the local Apple store.
Solution: Though it was not stated in any Apple support literature or postings online, the solution was to push the mini-jack into the audio out port until the mini-jack clicked. I was just being too cautious. I was pushing the mini-jacks into the port (which were in the back of the Mini, so I couldn't get a good handle on what I was doing, since the Mini's back was facing away from me). I wrongly thought I'd pushed as far as the jack(s) should go. Not so. I should have pushed harder until there was a 'click' and the mini-jack was all the way in. Once that was done, no problem.
Chalk it up to my stupidity or to a lack of detail in Apple's support and help literature, but that was the solution. I hope this helps others with similar audio out issues.

Thanks for the response but I think maybe you missed part of my post. The keyboard works fine with my mac book and with my son's macbook. The keyboard is actually working right now. It has been a problem with shut down and then strart up. I think that I went through all those other SMC and PRAM efforts with Apple support and actually many others and they were completely stumped. I think that this is a complicated problem for which there may only be a work around but I am hopeful that the next time I shut down, it will work. I appreciate ideas but if my 4 or 5 hours with Apple support cannot help, I do not believe this is going to be a simple solution but if someone has encountered this or something similar, I would welcome their ideas. I have gone to the Apple Store in Madison, WI on several occasions and unfortunately I often know more than the people that help me so I am reluctant to go there and to trust the staff at the genius bar. For example, I recently purchased and Apple watch and the first person that helped me did not know how to turn it on and the second person did not know it came with two different length bands, and I once bought a case for my iphone and the person who helped me was more interested in the color than in the functionality of the case. I could go on but I am not confident in the competence of the staff there so I am hoping that someone in the support community can help me.

Recommended transition solution for ISP:s with enterprise customers?

What would be the recommended solution(s) for ISP:s with enterprises only as customers?
It both needs to support IPv6 and at the same time save IPv4 resources.
Thanks in advance!

Hi,
There are many possible choice for a soft transition of the Service Provider:
- Dual-Stack
The SP can run both protocols in the backbone for a while so he can test IPv6 Service by switching some part of the Network to IPv6 Only and see if it is OK. In case there is a problem he can get back to dual-stack, fix the issue and resume its testing until it is Ok and he can allow IPv6 Only.
- It is possible to provide IPv6 Service without upgrading the backbone to IPv6 Immediately using 6RD if the backbone is IPv4 or 6PE /6VPE (I did the dev-test for 6PE and 6VPE for CISCO for 3 years) if the backbone is IPv4/MPLS. This way the SP can start providing both IPv4 and IPv6 without upgrading the backbone. He can then move slowly to IPv6 with a Dual-Stack period not to switch immediately to IPv6 and allow to fallback if soething is not properly configured to work in IPv6 Only.
With 6VPE, the customer benefit of a dual-stack VPN and recently, CISCO has improved the Support of Multicast in MPLS which was main weakness of MPLS based solutions.
Once the SP has migrated to IPv6 Only, it is still possible to offer dual-stack, IPv4 and IPv6 service to its customers using DS-Lite or better, A+P when it will be available as A+P (dIVI-pd based) does not rely on CGN which has a couple of drawbacks for the SPs.
Once the Customer has migrated to IPv6 Only, it is also still possible to access some IPv4 resources (Networks, servers, applications) using NAT64.
I have a presentation for you:
http://www.slideshare.net/fredbovy/transition-to-ipv6-and-security
And you will find more on my page:
http://www.fredbovy.com
I will be glad to help you further.
Fred Bovy
15 years ccie #3013
18 years ccsi #33517 (former #95003)
IPv6 Forum Gold Certified Engineer
IPv6 Forum Gold Certified Trainer
Email: [email protected]
Web: http://www.fredbovy.com
Wicki: http://www.fredbovy.com/MediaWiki
Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/Fr

Simple solution for Apple re: the ipod hearing damage issue;-)

All those stories on pods damaging hearing
http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2006/03/14/health/main1403418.shtml
First you have to be an idiot to turn it way way up; but the simple solution Apple can easily do is to make the volume control level bar turn red when it gets to a possibly damaging level for those folks who can't figure it out themselves...;-) That could be a simple update to add some color.....
[Apple can send me adequate compensation for my brilliant suggestion, I'd suggest a 40gig ipod;-)]

Don't tell us, tell Apple. : )
http://www.apple.com/feedback/ipod.html

Solution for syncing iCal with Exchange2003

After two days searching and struggling, I finally have found a solution to sync iCal with Exchange 2003. Outlook 2011 for the Mac connected to an older Exchange 2003 server, gives imap email functionality, but no support for syncing calendars or address books. With DavMail running as gateway on your Mac, you can sync not only iCal, but also calendars on mobile devices such as iPhone and iPad.
Here I wrote how I did it: http://www.zweerscreatives.nl/?p=372

Dennis,
You can try a work around that allows you to sync tasks and contacts to outlook using an alternate profile in outlook.
Create a new 'dummy' profile (ie CRMOD) in Outlook. You will need to make up a fake email server settings or base it on the IMAP connection to Beehive.
Once you have created the dummy profile, add the .pst data file to your normal Beehive Profile, this will allow you to access the tasks, calendar and contacts in the CRMOD profile.
In the PIM Sync setup select your 'dummy' profile as the outlook profile to sync.
Your users will have two contact, task and calendar folders on thier outlook desktop, but some folks prefer to separate their contact files and tasks anyway. Outlook will display a unified set of tasks if you view 'To-Do List'
Make sure to check the 'Show this folder as an email address book' in the contact folder properties.
Hope this helps while you wait for the enhancement!

Simple Solution for authentication with WD and R/3 Backend

Hi,
we are developing a Web-Dynpro based Application running
on a J2EE/ABAP Stack machine. Our backend is a 4.6C SAP System, we are using adaptive RFCs to get/put data there.
The user of the WD App should authenticate against the
J2EE/ABAP engine, and the resulting RFC Calls should be processed with the current ID/PWD(to track the updates).
The SSO aspect we can maybe solve with Logon Tickets, but this requests SU01 Users on both systems. This aspect
we can solve with UME (or Central User Admin) to minimize the effort.
Are there any ideas to solve this with less effort, the
goal is to track the chaning User in the material-master or other R/3 transactions. For a customer new to the web world, there are many things to learn (for some of them
interesting, for some of them too expensive -) )
Regards,
Christian

Hi Christian,
I'd think your summary is quite complete. There is currently no option, than to do a named access to the backend, if you want to have the user listed in the change records and auditing events.
For the user synchronizaiton, you could also use the LDAP connector, which would especially be helpful if you intend to have more users in the portal than in the ABAP system.
regards,
Patrick Hildenbrand

SOLUTION for my problems with MSI Z77A-GD65 + MSI N670 PE 2GD5/OC

Lately I had problems with my GTX 670 video card (MSI N670 PE 2GD5/OC) under Windows 7 Pro x64.
I got a lot of "Display driver stopped responding and has recovered" errors.
I had these errors once or twice a day, so I didn't really bother looking for an answer, also I couldn't reproduce the error.
Most games just worked fine, but not always... so I tried if I could reproduce the error.
I tried to stress test with MSI Kombustor and voila no windows error... noo... but the core voltage went to 0 mV within a minute and everything (screen / windows / kombustor) stuttered and I had to restart the system.
The strange thing was that the voltage went to 0 mV, but the GPU load went from 96% - 60% and back to 96%... why and how is this possible??
Now I could reproduce my problem... yes!
First I thought it was a driver problem, because I updated it to the newest version (310.70), so I tried to re-install an older driver and also the original MSI driver... no luck.
Maybe it could be a mainboard driver or some settings in windows, so I installed Windows 8... no luck.
Re-installed Windows 7 Pro x64 (basically because Windows 8 s*cks)... no luck.
I tried to put my video card in another system and there was no problem... so I thought my video card is not broken...
Maybe it's my my power supply... new power supply... no luck again... grrrr...
My solution was downgrading / flashing my mainboard (MSI Z77A-GD65) bios back to 1.5 instead of 1.7, because yes... live update had updated my bios... that was the problem.
I wanted to post this, because I couldn't really find the answer for my problem and maybe I can help a few people with the same configuration and problems.
Live well and... well you get the idea

Quote from: flobelix on 21-August-13, 04:12:05
Don't use TF II/TF III parts as they won't fit. Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo II or Accelero Mono PLUS are good value for money aftermarket solutions.
Thank you for the information and advice. As I was looking into those two, I noticed that Accelero's website claimed the Accelero Xtreme III would also fit, and NewEgg had it on sale, so that is what I wound up purchasing. It works quite well and is MUCH quieter than the Twin Frozr IV, even before the grinding noise started.
For anyone else considering this, please be aware that the Xtreme III is monstrously huge (it adds several inches to the length of the MSI N670 PE). Make sure you have plenty of room in your case for it.

Solutions for Imac G4 with no HDD

Bought a "Lamp" Imac G4 at auction with HDD removed.
It is such a design tour-de-force, I had to have one, if only just to use as a digital picture frame.
I'd like to use it for pictures, occasional web browsing, maybe a little music here or there.
15" screen, 1Gig processor, 512MiB RAM, 80GB HDD (removed)
I'm not afraid to install new RAM, or an airport extreme card, but replacing the HDD looks like a 36 step journey into tiny screw ****.
My two "cheat" solutions are: (I know nothing about Apple)
(1)     Add an external HDD...prolly via the firewire 400 port?
Is this doable at all with no internal HDD? Can it be that simple? What kind of drive? Please advise.
(2) I use a lot of Linux distros with my PCs (it doesn't take an Apple lover to despise Windows) Would it be possible to install an IMAC G4-friendly "light" distro like puppy Linux? An OS which can run live in the RAM?
(3) Any other simple way to avoid installing a new HDD in the VERY tightly packed globe of the "lamp"?
Feel free to hold my hand like the I-child that I am...

I run an external firewire harddrive off of my iMac g3 600. Works fine.
Restore Tiger 10.4 & Leopard 10.5 DVDs are available from Apple by calling 800-767-2775 as of January 20, 2013. Collect your Mac's serial number. Prepare you credit card for a workout. There is a reasonable fee.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4720126?tstart=0
Requirements for Mac OS X v10.5
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3759
You need an external Firewire drive to boot a PowerPC Mac computer [ a few G5's will boot from USB ].
I recommend you do a google search on any external harddrive you are looking at.
I bought a low cost external drive enclosure. When I started having trouble with it, I did a google search and found a lot of complaints about the drive enclosure. I ended up buying a new drive enclosure. On my second go around, I decided to buy a drive enclosure with a good history of working with Macs. The chip set seems to be the key ingredient. The Oxford line of chips seems to be good. I got the Oxford 911.
I'd give OWC a call. 1-815-338-8685.
FireWire 800 + USB 3, + eSATA
save a little money interface:
FireWire 400 + USB 2.0
This web page lists both external harddrive types. You may need to scroll to the right to see both.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/1394/USB/EliteAL/eSATA_FW800_FW400_USB
     (2) FireWire 800/400 Ports (Up to 100MB/s / 50MB/s)
     (1) USB 3.0 Port (Up to 500MB/s / 60MB/s)
     (1) eSATA Port (Up to 300MB/s)
Has a combo firewire 800/400 port. Not sure what this is. Looks like you will need 400 cable.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ministack
The startup manager will list all of your bootable partitions then give you a choice of which to boot.
Place cd machine. Poweroff your machine. Hold down the option key then power on. This brings up the startup manager. Click on your dvd. Click on right arrow key.

Possible solution for problems printing with ICC profiles - esp. R2400

(N.B. This is long because I've decided to go in to details about the background of the problem etc.. Also note that whilst my experience is with the Epson R2400, anyone with problems printing using ICC profiles in Aperture may find this post helpful, as will be explained further down the post.)
Ok, here's the situation. I've been an Aperture user for over a year, and an R2400 owner for half a year. In that time I have done a huge amount of experimenting, but I've never managed to get Aperture to work perfectly with Epson's 'premium' R2400 ICC profiles - the ones you can download from their site which are better than the ones provided 'in the box'. This hasn't been too big a deal because, in fact, the R2400 does a rather good job just set to 'System Managed' in Aperture and 'Epson Vivid' with a gamma of 1.8 in the printer driver. Nevertheless, it really annoyed me that something that should work wasn't, which is why I've spent a lot of time trying to figure out what's going on. Having said that, I have come across a method which will give you pretty good prints out of your Epson R2400 using the premium profiles in Aperture - it's not perfect, but it's the best you're going to get if you want to use those profiles in Aperture. I understand the words 'it's not perfect' aren't what photography experts would probably want to hear, however, I have seen a few anguished posts from R2400 owners in here before, so I think some people may find it useful.
The whole reason why Aperture is hopeless at using the R2400's premium profiles is because - unusually - their default rendering intent is set to 'relative colorimetric' rather than 'perceptual'. You might say 'but that's good - it means you get more accurate colours!', and if you do, you're right... however, there's a snag. To get an image to reproduce well using Epson's premium profiles and relative colorimetric rendering, you really need to use black point compensation. This is where the trouble lies: Aperture's black point compensation is diabolical to the point of being unusable when used with relative colorimetric rendering - I feel I need to be awarded compensation every time I've ever tempted to use the setting. So because BPC in Aperture is unusable, that effectively makes the premium profiles unusable too, because Aperture always uses the default rendering intent specified in the profile.
The solution? Use perceptual rendering instead. Ok, so you can't change the rendering intent in Aperture, which makes that sound a tad difficult. However, as I said in the above paragraph, Aperture always obeys the default rendering intent specified in the profile... so you can see where we're going with this: we need to change the ICC profiles' default rendering intent from 'relative colorimetric' to 'perceptual'. I did some digging around and found one or two expensive pieces of software that could do that... but then I found that, lo and behold, the Mac OS has a command-line utility which can do the job for us, for precisely £0.00. It's called SIPS or 'Scriptable Image Processing System', and you can find out some information about it here: http://developer.apple.com/technotes/tn/tn2035.html#TNTAG58 For those who don't like reading technical jargon however, here's what you need to do to convert a profile's rendering intent. First go to terminal, then type in the following command:
sips -s renderingIntent perceptual
Do not press 'enter' yet. Instead, add a space after 'perceptual', find the ICC profile you want to modify, and click and drag it into the terminal window. You should then find that your command looks something like this:
sips -s renderingIntent perceptual /Users/yourname/folder/RandomProfile.ICC
At which point you can then press 'enter', and the command will execute, giving you an ICC profile which will now make Aperture use perceptual rendering.
There is just one further thing to be aware of after doing this: for some crazy reason, you then need to turn on BPC in Aperture for the prints to come out as good as possible. Black point compensation shouldn't make any difference when using perceptual rendering as the idea of perceptual is that it takes account of things like that anyway, however, in Aperture BPC does make a difference, so remember to turn it on to get a half decent print. In general, I find that prints made using this setup come out pretty well; they almost perfectly match prints made using the profiles with a perceptual intent in Photoshop Elements, except for the fact that Aperture blocks up the shadows a bit more than Photoshop. However, if you can live with that, you might find this is quite a workable solution.
Now, I said near the beginning of this post that all the above can apply to other printers too. Most printer profiles have 'perceptual' set as their default rendering intent, in which case everything I've just said won't be of much help. However, If you are reading this because you're having problems with ICC profiles in Aperture, but you don't use an Epson R2400, find your problematic ICC profile, double-click on it, and take a look at the window that opens: specifically, at the 'Rendering Intent' the window mentions. If it doesn't say 'Perceptual' then it may well be worth trying the steps I've outlined in this post to set it to perceptual, to see if doing so produces an improvement when using the profile in Aperture.
Finally, just one note of caution: if you decide to try out the steps I've detailed above on a paid-for custom-made profile, please back your profile up before messing with it. I haven't experienced any problems when using SIPS to change a profile's rendering intent, but I obviously can't guarantee that it won't do something weird and corrupt your expensive custom-made profile.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask, although (contrary to any impression I may give) I am not a colour-management expert; I'm just someone who doesn't give up when they have a problem that should be solvable.
Thomas
Mac Pro 2.0GHz with 30" ACD; 15" MacBook Pro 2.0GHz Mac OS X (10.4.10)

Thomas
Wow - thanks for such a comprehensive post.
I have Aperture and a 2400 so this information is exceptionally useful to me.
Again - thanks for caring and sharing
Brian

Alternative Solution for Form 16 with Digital Signature.

Dear All,
My Basis people have tried lot, but they have failed to set up ADS Server, for Digital Signature to be implemented for Form 16.
Can anyone, please provide me with any other solution to get Digital Signature implemented may be via some Z programs or Z customizations. Kindly help me out, as this is an important requirement from the board members of my client. If I fail on this, it would be having some serious repercussions.
Looking forward for an earnest reply. Please don't provide solutions related to SE78(Sapscript .jpg upload).
With Best Regards,
Mithilesh Kumar Singh

Form 16 Configuration for ESS - ERP Human Capital Management - SCN Wiki
1589254 - Form 16 central note for ADS configuration
see the PDF Form 16 (print preview) in PC00_M40_F16 transaction in ECC (R/3)

Backup solutions for FCP 5 with external FireWire LaCie disks

Hi guys!
I'm using a G4 mirrored door Dual and OS 10.4.8.
On external LaCiel d2 disk (160 to 300 GB) I store my footage, project files and other assets for different projects.
After having some trouble with lost "partitition table" on one disk and accidentally replacing an existing Capture Scratch with an emtpy one, I realise I must look for a system to backup my disks.
What do you suggest? I guess a disk-based system is cheaper, but tape feels more reliable.
What tape format should I look into?
All suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Listen to Shane.
You've already got all your footage on Betacam... hang on to it. It may not be environmentally friendly, but tape is cheap and when stored properly, lasts a long time. I can go back a recapture things I shot on Betacam long before the concept of footage on hard drives existed, and believe me, it comes in handy when a client wants to put a corporate history show together.
The only thing I put to tape for archive is a DV copy of my completed timelines. I find these come in handy when a client wants a simple change (cut out Joe cause we fired him last week) If it's simple enough I simply recapture that master tape and edit using it rather than re-capture all the footage necessary to recreate a timeline.
Have fun
rh

USB WIFI solution for iBook G4 with broken AirPort

Hi folks, I posted earlier about my iBook G4 which just recently began having the dreaded AirPort related kernel panics. The machine works fine with AirPort disabled, and now I'm looking for a USB wifi stick (dongle) that will keep me wireless.
There are tons of posts on the web regarding different wifi sticks that kind of work, but I'm looking for definitive references on which are the best. I'm mostly concerned with flaky drivers. Some time ago, I tried out the D-Link G-122 with correct chipset and Ralinktech drivers. The drivers were horrible and the D-Link eventually just burned out.
Since then there have been several more USB sticks that claim to work in 10.4.x, but I see several of them use the same drivers. WHERE IS THE SOLUTION TO MAKE ALL THESE BUSTED IBOOKS WIRELESS AGAIN??? And I don't mean a new logic board! It sounds like most folks say to go with an ethernet bridge, but that's not what I'm looking for, as I'm tethered to an ethernet cable already.
Here are a few USB Wifi sticks I've come across recently. Can anyone comment on any of these and success with 10.4.x or iBooks?
http://afterthemac.com/?gclid=CNuFk-mGq5ACFRscawod4TEL7A
http://www.macwireless.com/html/products/wireless_cards/USBs.php
http://www.quickertek.com/products/nano.php
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Edimax/EW7718UN/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Asus/WL167G/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/MXP802NU2C/
Thanks a ton in advance
Paul

If it is sold by Macsales, chances are it will work.
But I will also say this as a qualifier. If your iBook G4 predates the introduction of USB 2 on the iBook G4, your best speed on a USB WiFi is going to be 12 Mbps. And that's if no other USB devices are hooked up to it, because it has one USB bus. You are much better off getting the airport card inside the iBook replaced by an authorized dealer. Anything that will cause damage to internal components of the machine likely will affect more than one part of the machine, and you just happen to be lucky that it hasn't caused further problems for you. It does not pay to have a machine limping. Get the entire machine fixed.

Is there a fix for MAC Pro with Dual video cards that randomly logs off and on?

From my readings on the Internet this seems to be a know problem. That even furthers my frustrations with the latest OS X upgrades. So far on both my MACBOOK PRO and my MAC PRO it has been a major downgrade as both systems are no longer stable. Enough with my complaints...
Is there any plan to address this problem with the MAC PRO? I can't believe 10.8.1 didn't fix it. More can be read on it at:
http://jvm-technology.blogspot.com/2012/08/mac-pro-users-experiencing-random-log .html
Does anyone have work around to use dual screen monitors with the system? I have two video cards, the article says to remove one. Has this worked for anyone? Can I use dual screens with the one video card. Before I go messing around with these type of things I just want to be sure that this is a real fix. For the price of the cards and the system I really can't believe apple has this issue in the first place and has not fixed it.

Self-hosted add-ons have to be fixed for every new version of Firefox. Two to 6 months for updating an add-on is ridiculous for a program which has a new version release every '''6 weeks'''. If that extension was hosted at the official Add-ons website, Mozilla would take take care of "bumping" that extension, as long as it keeps working, for every new version of Firefox, as the new version is released.
See this thread from yesterday, I posted instructions about how to "bump" that extension for Firefox 7.<br />
https://support.mozilla.com/en-US/questions/884484
You can also use this extension to "bump" an already installed extension for compatibility with the currently installed version of Firefox. <br />
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/add-on-compatibility-reporter/

Simple solutions for cinematic look with 60i video?

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