[Sims 3] Brightness a bit dark

Hi.
I run on Arch x86_64 with bin32-wine 1.1.40 (because with the 1.1.41, I can't launch the installer) and I've a little problem with the sims3.
When I launch it in fullscreen mode, the screen become dark, and it do that only with the sims 3, my other games works well.
Is anyone had the same problem?

Firefox is a 32-bit browser, and will automatically use the 32-bit plugin (located in SysWOW64).
If you want to use 64-bit browsing, download Waterfox - it will use the 64-bit plugin (located in System32).

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Left 6/10 of output is a bit darker.

Hi,
I see a vertical division between a slightly darker at left and a brighter more correct colour movie at right.
Its not on the input files which started life as mpg and were converted to avi as far as I recall for better compatability with Premiere. Stopping one at the same point as the output file and comparing the two same parts of the footage, the output is making the left 6/10's a bit darker. Also viewing the end result after burning using TMPGencDVDAuthoringWorks on a TV, the left 6/10's is darker. This didnt happen the first time I created this movie. Now I come to make another disc and point the prompts to find the lost linked footage, and find it all, but for one file, I get this anomaly. The missing avi file doesnt seem to exist on my pc, and the movie plays fine without it.
Whats the reason behind the darker portion of my footage ? Its on various clips in the movie that once were mpg but not all of them. I see one where its a horizontal difference unlike the vertical difference of most.
Envirographics

Hi,
the_wine_snob wrote
However, you beat me to the punch. The Split View is the difference. Now, you can use the Fast Color Corrector to match the two halves to your taste. If you need more density work, use Levels.
I am not understanding the match two halves bit. Without this function on the two halves do match, with it on its giving a preview I guess of before and after the effects of the function, though that preview gets to be made into the dvd Its not like part of my scene neds making darker to match the other part. Can you explain better what you meant please ?
Do I need to disable this function for each and every clip if I dont want it or is there a global setting that does it all in one click ?
Jin Simon wrote:
It's meant only for comparison purposes. Turn it off for export.
I wish by default the preview mode didnt carry through to the end product and get made into a dvd. I dont see why anyone would want that. To have to go through all the effects tabs for all the clips and ensure previews are off is a pain is it not ? Miss one and output spoilt.
Envirographics.

Monitor Mac 27" is a little bit dark

Hi... I purchased this Mac 27" in March of 2010 and now, it is a little bit dark in the botton, from left to right... Is it serious? Is there anything I can do? Tks in advance!!!

You can make more adjustments in the "NVIDIA Control Panel" under "Adjust desktop Color settings". There are adjustments for Brightness, Contrast, and Gamma.
Message was edited by: mjpoplaw

IPhone 5 with iOS 8 - Auto Brightness too dim / dark

Hi all,
I just updated my iPhone 5 to iOS 8 and the auto brightness makes the screen too dark and hard to read. This was not an issue with iOS 7 on my phone. I've tried using some of the calibration tips online, but none seem to help.
When I am outside, it's fine, it will automatically adjust the brightness all the way up. The issue is inside, then the auto-brightness will make the screen too dim to be able read very well.
I know I could turn off the auto brightness feature and manually adjust the brightness, but I really liked the feature with iOS 6 and iOS 7.
Is anyone else having this issue? Any tricks I could do to fix this, or is this just an issue with iOS 8 on iPhone 5s? It would be nice if Apple gave us more control with auto brightness, like maybe letting us set the min and max brightness when it is on auto.
I did see this post from jedi31780 where his iOS 8 auto brightness isn't adjusting at all, but other than that, I haven't see any other posts online about this yet.
iOS 8 Brightness
Thanks

Thanks! I went into settings under brightness when I was in a room where I felt the iPhone was too dim and I moved the brightness up till I was happy with it. it now uses that as a baseline and adjusts from there instead of where it was before, so no longer too dim. I thought I already tried that before, but either I adjusted it again to thy the calibration steps, or maybe I adjusted it from the "control center" screen and maybe that one doesn't save.
Either way, all is good now. Thanks for the tip!

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As written above:
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If you have a RAW version of the photo, you can adjust the shadow and highlight contrast in Adobe Camera Raw. Later versions of PS also allows you to open jpgs and other file formats in ACR, so you can use these adjustments.

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Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a test, not a solution. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
Step 1
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is localized to your user account.
Enable guest logins and log in as Guest. For instructions, launch the System Preferences application, select Help from the menu bar, and enter “Set up a guest account” (without the quotes) in the search box.
While logged in as Guest, you won’t have access to any of your personal files or settings. Applications will behave as if you were running them for the first time. Don’t be alarmed by this; it’s normal. If you need any passwords or other personal data in order to complete the test, memorize, print, or write them down before you begin.
As Guest, test. Same problem(s)?
After testing, log out of the guest account and, in your own account, disable it if you wish. Any files you created in the guest account will be deleted automatically when you log out of it.
Step 2
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party system modifications that load automatically at startup or login.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Boot in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. The instructions provided by Apple are as follows:
Be sure your Mac is shut down.
Press the power button.
Immediately after you hear the startup tone, hold the Shift key. The Shift key should be held as soon as possible after the startup tone, but not before the tone.
Release the Shift key when you see the gray Apple icon and the progress indicator (looks like a spinning gear).
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on some Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem(s)?
After testing, reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.) Post the results of steps 1 and 2.

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When I have my timeline stopped, the canvas has a nice bright picture, but as soon as I press play, the brightnass drops drasticaly. This is very frusterating, and I'd like to know more about why it happens and what I can do to prevent, or at least minimise this.
Also, could someone verify that the paused image is more accurate to the source clip?

Well, typically one would see lower quality playback...and this is why:
Shane's Stock Answer #2: Blurry playback
ONLY JUDGE THE QUALITY OF YOUR MATERIAL ON AN EXTERNAL NTSC MONITOR, OR AT LEAST A TV.
1. Disable overlays on the canvas
2. Make sure you've rendered everything (no green bars at the top of the timeline
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=24787
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Shane

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Same here, I find it unbelievable this occurs and there doesn't seem te be a solution. Is it something developpers know about but can't solve so ignore all the discussions about it?
It seems so simple to me: whether the monitor is calibrated or not, whatever monitor it is, when I place the exported movie window in Quicktime, and one in VLC, next to the Speedgrade window, all on the same monitor, it all should look the same right?! Ok, so I hear Quicktime does its own calibration while playing.
I'm working on a project now which are product films, the end result is a room where everything is white (not overexposed, all details are in there), the product black and blue, plus a model (brown skin).
I'm including a few screenshots of the same shot in different players. Speedgrade, VLC, Quicktime, MPEG Streamclip. MPEG Streamclip comes closest to the Speedgrade monitor. How can I possibly sell this to my client? This is shown on laptops at presentations, beamers via laptops (probably all Windows), big screens with a built-in mediaplayer etc, and most important: online! on youtube/ vimeo.. Not operated by experts, no control over which player is used.
The films will probably almost always be shown by someone doubleclicking on the file, so it opens in the systems standard movieplayer, Quicktime or Windows Media Player. It just has to look good in this! How do I do this?
When I place the exported clip on top of my Speedgrade timeline, it does change (the whole histogram range shifts brighter).
edit: I now exported with Automatic Color Calibration ON, the results has better contrast/ resembles contrast I see in Speedgrade. Placing this clip on top of my Speedgrade timeline shows almost exactly the same. Export to ProRes4444 AutCC: Histogram expands tiny tiny bit, can't see a change in the monitor it's so small.
Export to ProRes422 AutCC: Histogram expands a bit, you can see a slight change in the monitor (whites bit brighter, black bit darker). But acceptable.
No change in the color differences though! Skin colour varies huge in different viewers, highlights have more green/ more magenta.
speedgrade
quicktime
vlc
mpeg streamclip
These screenshots look exactly the same as how the colors are in the viewer the screenshots comes from, even when I place this browser window next to it on the same (calibrated) monitor.
Thanks for any tips..
Peter
edit 2: The frustration gets worse. Playing the clip (prores 422 with Automatic Color calibration) in Preview (Mac, by hitting spacebar when on the file in Finder) shows EXACTLY what I see in Speedgrade monitor! It feels like the solution is out there somewhere but I can't reach it (cause no one will actually play the video in Preview).
Message was edited by: pvd81

How to use Windows SIM to create answer files for 32-bit (x86) Windows 7 from a 64-bit (x86_64) Windows 7 PC?

So I'm having the old 32-bit/64-bit compatibility issues with Windows SIM. I have a Windows 7 64-bit PC (actually a virtual machine) that I intend to use to run Windows SIM and make answer files for 32-bit Windows 7 unattended installations.
I've installed the latest Windows ADK (the Win 8.1 one). When doing this there was no choice of download or prompt during installation regarding 32-bit or 64-bit architectures. Once installed the Windows Kits folder is under Program Files (x86), but imgmgr.exe
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Hi,
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<settings pass="specialize">
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xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
<OEMInformation>
<Manufacturer>[ REPLACE WITH COMPANY NAME ]</Manufacturer>
<SupportURL>[ REPLACE WITH SUPPORT WEBSITE ]</SupportURL>
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type of the image. For example, if you create an answer file that deploys 64-bit images from a 32-bit preinstallation environment, all components in the answer file for the windowsPE configuration pass must include the processor attribute type of x86. Settings
to be applied in the specialize, oobeSystem, or other configuration passes must include the processor attribute type of amd64.
If you have any feedback on our support, please click
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Alex Zhao
TechNet Community Support

Adjust brightness in dark areas of clip

I am using FCE 4.0.1 and attempting to brighten up some dark areas in a clip. The scene in the clip contains both sun and shade areas and the exposure is fine for the sunlit parts but too dark for the shady areas. I have tried most of the brightness, gamma etc filters but they all adjust the whole frame. I am used to photo editors where it is easy to change brightness/contrast for dark, midtones and bright areas. Is there an appropriate filter in FCE that I should use?

Try this froma previous post:
https://discussions.apple.com/message/7884130#7884130
Al

IdeaPad S206 Display dark

Hi,
I bought a Lenovo IdeaPad S206 and it worked for like 2-3 months with Windows 8 und Lubuntu 12.10 but since yesterday I got a problem with my display.
The Display stays dark, no matter if plugged in or out, I tried the Fn-Keys and it won't get brighter. (And I'm not talking about a little bit dark like it's dimmed, it's extremly dark like it doesn't shine anymore at all...)
I can barely see anything on it, only if I have light in the background I can see a little bit of it.
The Netbook itself is still working, I can still get into Windows 8 and Lubuntu 12.10 , but I just can't see anything.
Sorry for my bad english, it's not my native language.
~
BeepBeep

hi BeepBeep,
Welcome to the forums and sorry to hear about your trouble.
From the issue that you have described, there's a big possibility that either the LCD cable or LCD screen itself (LED type) might have gotten defective and you will need to contact lenovo for service.
If you bought the unit in Germany, see details below on how to go about getting it serviced:
Hope this helps.
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Is my display too dark?

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I would compare it to another MacBook rather than to an iMac to try and judge if the screen seems of normal brightness. The iMac likely is brighter by design. When you don't have to run something from a battery, it gives more latitude in the design for making the screen brighter.

LIghtroom Auto Tone Too Dark and Loses Detail

Hi,
I'm new to Lightroom so excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong terminology or ask a question that has a relatively easy answer I somehow overlooked inside of Lightroom.
I take photos at my son's soccer games and frequently walk away with over 200 photos to adjust, crop, etc. after removing the poor composition, out of focus and other shots. One of the features that prompted me to purchase Lightroom to replace my existing tool (Capture One LE) was the way Lightroom handled colors in the Auto Tone preset. Photos auto adjusted in Lightroom with the Auto Tone feature exhibit a much more rich/vibrant color than the ones that would come out of Capture One LE for me.
However, I've noticed that Auto Tone also darkens areas of the photo to the point where a significant amount of detail is lost. For example, a shot of a player head on with a shadow across his face and front of his jersey loses facial detail around the eyes, nose, mouth and folds in the front of the jersey because the coloring is darkened to the point where the highlights are lost.
I've tried several adjustments to regain the highlights and associated detail, but am unsure if there's a better way to recover the detail (or gain the tone enhancements without losing the detail). So far, the adjustments I've tried to regain the detail have caused the colors to wash out somewhat and reduce the benefit gained with the color enhancements of Auto Tone.
Is there a better way of regaining the detail after using Auto Tone? And on a related note, is there a way to "undo" just the Auto Tone adjustment in a photo if it's not the last adjustment made, or does one need to step backward through the adjusments undoing each adjustment in order to get to the Auto Tone adjustment in order to remove it?
Thanks in advance for any direction or suggestions anyone can provide. FYI, my photos were all in RAW format (noticed a lot of other posts referring to LR Auto Tone washing out JPGs, but this isn't my issue), with a Canon 20D.
Dale

There are several ways to go, here, as always with Lightroom in this situation. I suppose one thing you can do is use Auto Tone as you've been doing, and then back down another slider or two, particularly Contrast and Brightness, that moves too far for your taste when you hit Auto Tone.
I don't use Auto Tone. It's considered a machete where deftly-wielded surgical knives get much better results. I tested Auto Tone out on a virtual copy of one of my photos of people for you to see what happens. It bumps Contrast way up, drops Brightness a bit, reduces Fill Light, and increases Blacks slightly. Yeah, that would pretty much get the results you're complaining about! Might work okay in some landscape shots in some very subdued lighting situations, but it will make family shots too harsh.
Let me suggest another approach. First, no one checklist approach like I'm about to suggest works for every photo. But when you learn how to use the sliders yourself, and not rely on the automatic and strongest ones, like Auto Tone and Contrast, your photos will look better than you even realized. Seriously! I know what you're saying:
I take 200 photos at a time, and I don't have time to play with sliders for each photo. Hear me out, though, because you do. Once you get the hang of it, you'll learn to do all this so fast, well less than one minute per keeper shot, and you'll see that it's worth the small amount of time it takes.
First look at all your Imported shots and quickly weed out most of them. Don't try to save the ones where your main subject is out-of-focus or turned away at the last second, or badly overexposed shots, or for whatever reason, aren't worth editing time because you know you have better ones... and you should weed out MOST shots (maybe at least 150) if you took 200! Be a tough editor! Hit the X key as you look at ones to cull, then click Filter by black flag until all the Rejected photos Only are isolated, check them one more time to be sure you didn't X some you want by mistake, ctrl-A them to highlight all the Rejected ones ONLY, and hit Delete to blow them all away, From Disk. Congratulate yourself, because you just saved a lot of editing time.
Assuming the Exposure was in the right ballpark, fix Color Temp first. For your first keeper shot, move that Temp slider near upper right of Develop, almost certainly to the right for Canon Raw shots, to warm the faces a bit. You probably don't want the kids' faces ruddy red, but a little warming so that white jerseys just begin to go slightly to the red side of white, makes your outdoor people photos glow. It wouldn't be surprising to see family soccer photos in the 6000-6500 range look best. If you want cold journalistic realism, leave white jerseys pure white and Temp down in the 4000-5000 range on a cloudy day or 5000-6000 range on a sunny one. Now, if one shot's right, and
if your light didn't change during the shoot (sun going in and out of clouds, sun setting, field lights turning on halfway through the game), you can fix Temp for all your remaining shots with just a couple of clicks! Leave the first shot you fixed Temp for highlighted, and ctrl-A the whole filmstrip (or, alternatively, you can just ctrl-click the ones taken in the same light). Now click the Sync button that appears near the lower right corner of Develop. A window pops. Make sure White Balance is checked, and click Synchronize. (Every field checked here gets applied the same as on the first highlighted shot to all your subsequently highlighted shots when you do this. Since you haven't changed anything else yet, you don't have to uncheck the other boxes-- it won't matter. But later, after you've made other adjustments to other shots, you might only want to leave the boxes checked for fields you do want applied the same to all highlighted photos.) When you click Synchronize, watch all the highlighted photos in the filmstrip at the bottom get a warmer color balance. You can always later make more refined adjustments to individual shots or groups of shots that go too red or not warm enough.
The next thing to fix is the Exposure. Get in the habit of constantly consulting that Histogram graph at the top of the right column. Ideally, though this isn't always possible or ideal, but generally, you'd like to see neither triangle in the upper right and left corners
lit. (When it's right, you'll still see the outline of the triangle, but it won't be illuminated.) Even better, for an average outdoor shot with a variety of light and dark tones, you want to see a nice balanced line across most of the graph, curving up from the left and down on the right. Not always possible or the best exposure for every shot, mind you, just average ones. (A silhouette shot on a beach with the setting sun in the photo is an example of a shot where the best Histogram will look the opposite of that!) Try moving Exposure slowly to the left and right and watch how the Histogram moves. Try to get the best average placement you can, and see if the photo still looks right.
Or watch your grass with soccer shots while you move Exposure back and forth. Grass should look middle green, not too bright, and not dull-muddy-dark. Or watch faces. If you still have a triangle on the upper right of Histogram, which means highlight detail is blowing out, try sliding Recovery to the right just until the upper right triangle disappears, if possible. (It isn't always possible, even with Recovery at 100.) If you still have a triangle on the upper left of Histogram (that one means shadows are muddy with no detail), try sliding Blacks down from 5 towards 0, just until the triangle goes away. Sometimes it's easier to make a triangle go away by moving Exposure a bit. If there's no triangle on the upper left, try increasing Black slowly just until one appears in the upper left, then back off a bit until it just goes away again. If there are harsh shadows, increase Fill Light to brighten shadows a bit until it looks right. Losing the triangles is a general goal but not as important as having photos look right to you. It's a juggling act. Sometimes when you remove the triangles, the grass is muddy brownish, faces look wrong, or highlights are too dull. Maybe you move Exposure, Highlights or Blacks to put one or both triangles back but leave the overall photo better.
Now just do two more things, especially as you're learning this: first, increase Clarity. Probably a bunch. If faces go too harsh on you with Clarity at a highsetting, and they can in closeup, you may want about a 20-45 on Clarity. Many photos look best with even higher Clarity settings, even 100 for landscapes. Now bump Vibrance up, probably to the left of the Clarity slider, though. Too high a setting on Vibrance makes colors looks cartoonish and fake. Are faces too ruddy or foliage too over-the-top? Back off on Vibrance.
Look at the Histogram one more time and touch up Recovery and Blacks again if needed to get rid of barely reappearing triangles.
I recommend you do not move the following sliders, generally, for 99% of your photos, anyway: Tint (just usually not needed if the camera is doing color balance correctly), and Brightness, Contrast, and Saturation, all of which are ham-handed ways of doing what you do more precisely with the other sliders. About the only time you need Saturation is to move it left with a rare shot that for some reason has too much color especially red even with Vibrance set to 0. (Maybe your camera is set to Vivid.)
Doing these things will make most of your photos look WAY better than hitting Auto Tone. And once you get the hang of it, as I said, you can do each photo in well less than one minute, and you only do this on your keepers, so it doesn't take much time.

Screen Getting Darker

I have a 3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo that i bought in November of 2009. i've noticed in the last month or so that about have of the screen is a little bit darker. there's more light on the right side of the screen than the left side. Does someone have an answer to this? thanks.

JMVD,
Seems to me that you're quite the Apple expert. I had this problem with my eMac. Since, I am not American or English I hope I can make the problem chrystal clear.
I think I had the same problem with my screen. A few days ago I left my eMac running while not using it. After a while the screen became dark due to the "sleep modus setting" of course. This is not the first time this happens. Only this time after activating the eMac again my screen was so much darker. So of course I changed the screen setting (calibration) at the system preference menu. It improved the brightness of the screen but I noticed that it still was not normal. I said to myself: as long as I can work with it than it would be no problem. But then last night I forgot to shut down my eMac and again the screen got darker. This time I tried to change the setting again. Again the calibration process but I saw that I am using the maximum brightness and I got irritated by the quality of the color. And furthermore if the screen would get darker the next time I already used up the calibration / brightness possibities.
So I went looking for help at the apple site. And I found your discussion. And I just tried the command option o f advise of yours etc etc etc. After the automatic restart only the grey screen (background) with in the centre the apple logo appeared.
Your advice was very simple so I just went for it. I hope I did not erased the whole unit. Please tell me what I should do know. Also I saw the screen (grey back ground / apple logo) was kind of dark. But, I never look at the screen when I start up the eMac. Maybe I am imagining this.
I hope you can help me with this. Unfortunately, I do not have the apple care protection plan.
Thanx.

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I just recently purchased my macbook Pro 13in. I want to use boot camp to install windows 7. I have a MacBook Pro (Mid2012) edition. How do I know if I can use a 64 bit or 32 bit edition of windows. Also do I need the full software or can I buy upgrade software.

Microsoft Windows 8 Preview
http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/apps/default
Windows 8 Blog
https://blogs.msdn.com/b/b8/
Installing Windows 8 On a MacBook Air
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2393005,00.asp
Without SuperDrive on older Macs
http://huguesval.com/blog/2012/02/installing-windows-7-on-a-mac-without-superdri ve-with-virtualbox/
Windows 8 RTM Now Available For MSDN And TechNet Subscribers
The download size of Windows 8 RTM x64 (English) is 3416 MB and x86 is 2511 MB.
How To Install Windows 8 On Mac
Posted September 15, 2011 – 5:37 pm in: Windows 8 GuidesFor all those Mac users who have been eagerly waiting to test drive the next generation Windows 8 operating system on their Mac, here is the simple procedure that you need to follow to install Windows 8 on your Mac using the Boot Camp Assistant software.
We have guides to help you install and setup Windows 8. Check out following guides while waiting for your ISO files to download:
# How to install Windows 8 from USB flash drive
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http://www.intowindows.com/install-windows-8-on-mac/
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http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2012/03/windows-8-on-a-macbook-air-beautiful-and-kinda -broken/
http://www.windows-now.com/blogs/robert/hyper-v-3-0-confirmed-for-windows-8-clie nt.aspx
http://www.windows8update.com/2011/12/06/enabling-hyper-v-in-windows-8/
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[Sims 3] Brightness a bit dark

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