Slow transfer with flash drive

I'm using a Kingston DataTraveler 2GB.
When i transfer data in my iBook with 10.3.8 the speed is OK.
But when I to it in my eMac with 10.4.6, the speed is very slow and sometimes appears the colored spinning circle.
Any clue?
Thanx in advance.

Noto,
Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
What model eMac do you have? What model iBook? If your eMac has USB 1.1 (nomially 12 Mbps rate) ports and the iBook has USB 2.0 (nominally 480 Mbps rate), then the eMac will definitely appear slower. You can download Mactracker to check the specs on various Mac models, and refer to eMac: How to locate the serial number and identify your model for the emac in particular.
Another possibility: were you using a USB port on the side of the eMac (or a powered USB hub attached to the eMac's side ports) or were you using the keyboard ports? The keyboard ports are low-power and are USB 1.1 even on USB 2.0 eMacs (at least with Apple keyboards).

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  • Version 3 conflict with  Flash Drive

    Just upgraded to version 3 but resulted in conflict with Kingston flash drive. Firstly, Photoshop Album automatically opens up when you put the flash drive in the USB port (and you can't disable it). Secondly explorer (XP version) no longer recognises the flash drive. Reverted back to version 2 and flash drives worked fine. Adobe know there's an issue but couldn't solve it - anybody got a solution?

    Welcome to Apple Support Discussions.
    Your machine would probably benefit more from RAM upgrade than a upgrade to an SSD. Go here choose the iMac you have and you might be able to upgrade to 6 GB. The ONLY advantage of an SSD is loading your OS and opening and closing apps. Because Macs are designed to be left on 24/7 except if you are away for few days or longer the first point is moot. That leaves opening and closing apps, unless you are working in apps where you are opening a closing a lot of files all the time a SSD would be a waste of money.
    My recommendation, do an SMC and PRAM reset and see how it operates and if you still aren't satisfied upgrade to 6GB of RAM.
    Roger

  • I have an answer to problem with flash drives

    The problem with a flash drive that an iMAC does not know you plugged in is the length of the part going into the computer is too short even though it worked just fine on a PC for years. Those that do not work have a length of about 3/8 inch of the metal part while those that work just fine have a length of about  1/2 inch. The  1/2 inch is longer than what will go completely in, but it works great. My 1/2 inch long flash drives were from Sony. When you see flash drives in a store the metal part that is so important is covered by the cap,  bigmyron

    Thanks. I tried this but contacts won't turn on in iCloud. When I turn it on the merge screen comes up I press merge and it just reverts to main screen and does not stay on.

  • Cleanup/speed up mac book with flash drive

    cleanup/speed up mac book with flash drive

    How to maintain a Mac
    1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
    2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
    Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
    3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
    It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac" and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
    As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
    Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction.  Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
    Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
    4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
    5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
    There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
    Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
    In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
    Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
    6. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
    While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
    If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
    7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
    To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. A computing device should not be a focus of your attention. It should be an almost invisible tool by means of which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that is always whining for your attention like a neurotic dog, use a PC.
    The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

  • USB Issue with Flash Drives

    I am running XP Pro with SP3 and all updates as well as all Bios updates with Lenovo.
    I have an issue with my USB ports.  Everytime I put a USB flash card in any slot I do get installation and driver installed correctly.  But when I go to the Explorer I get "is not accessible"  Then it says under that "The process cannot access the file because it is being used by another process"   But when I leave the USB flash drive in the drive and reboot I am able to to access the drive.  Any suggestions on this issue I am not sure if it was the Bios update or one of the XP udpates.  Anyone else come accross this issue?
    Thanks,
    Scott

    Would you try this:
    Drive Preparation
    1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder.
    2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
    3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
    4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
    5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
    6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
    I don't know what you are looking at to determine space available. You need to do that by selecting the device's Desktop icon then press COMMAND-I to open the Get Info window. The capacity and available space will be displayed in the Get Info window. A portion of the device will be allocated for the RDB and directory, so some space will be shown as in use.

  • PhotoShop Album Starter Ed. Interferes with Flash Drives

    I have installed the Adobe PhotoShop Album Starter Edition 3 on a new computer and can no longer use my flash drives for data. The drives no longer appear in Windows Explorer and there is nothing that I can find in the program prefs that will let me turn off the auto launch and import routine that starts every time I insert a flash drive. I have not had this problem on the old computer running the same version of the software and the operating system. I have had to remove the program so that I can regain the use of my flash drives for handling data. Does anyone know the secret to being able to use both PhotoShop album Starter Edition AND flash drives for data? I am running WinXP SP2.
    Thanks for the help,
    Tom Davis

    I observed same problem on my machine many times. I have noticed that we remove flash drive/card reader without using "Safely Remove Hardware" of windows then sometimes windows explorer is not able recognize the card reader/flash drive.
    For this, I would suggest you to click on device hardware icon in the system tray and select "Safely Remove Hardware" and then click [Stop] in the next window. Then windows will tell you if device is busy or safe to remove.
    Using this , I am no longer observing problem of card reader not being recognized. Hope this helps!

  • MBP Retina with "Flash" Drive vs "Solid-State" Drive

    The MBP-R is described as having a "Flash" drive, while the MBP has an upgrade option called a "Solid-Sate" drive.  I assumed it was the same thing but the pricing suggests they are different:
    1) The 512 Gb "solid-state" drive is a $900 upgrade option on the MBP, whereas
      2) For a price difference of only $600 you get the 512 Gb "flash" drive on the MBP-R, PLUS the Retina display etc.
    Does anyone know what the difference is?

    You can research the difference between the two at Wikipedia.
    I can tell you this, either can't secure erase or be replaced in MBP-R as in earlier models of MBP's. Sure one can enable Filevault 2 when one first starts using them, however if the password is cracked, bypassed or given in order to fix the machine, all past data (even deleted) is availalbe for anyone to review, just like a iPhone or iPad.
    I wouldn't be surprised devices like this soon will be also supporting these new computers.
    Cellebrite's new generation mobile forensic solution, UFED Touch Ultimate, enables the most technologically advanced extraction, decoding, analysis and reporting of mobile data. It performs physical, logical, file system and password extraction of all data (even if deleted) from the widest range of devices including legacy and feature phones, smartphones, portable GPS devices and handheld tablets.
    http://www.cellebrite.com/mobile-forensics-products/forensics-products/ufed-touc h-ultimate.html

  • Problem with flash drive

    I have 1.25 GHz eMac G4 runnning Tiger 10.4.7
    When I insert my 1GB sandisk USB flash drive, a burn folder appears in thge left portion of the finder window (and on the desktop). It is as if I have inserted a blank CDR. When I remove the flash drive. The burn folder remains in the list and I have to manually put it in the trash. Does anyone know how to remedy this?
    Thanks,
    Tim
    emac   Mac OS X (10.4.7)  

    hi tim--
    was it doing this before, or has it always done this?? you could try various things i guess. try booting to open firmware holding apple-option-o-f and type in the following commands--
    reset-nvram (hit return)
    set-defaults (hit return)
    reset-all (hit return)
    the last command restarts the computer. if that doesn't do anything try going to disk utility, selecting the macintosh hd, and then click on repair disk permissions. if that still does nothing, boot to the install disk (for tiger) holding the c until you get a spinning cog under the apple. then when you reach the language window, go forward one window, and then locate the menu that says "utilities" at the top of screen. then select disk utility and then the macintosh hd. click on "repair disk". let me know if any of these things works. [ 8 ) ]

  • Slow transfer with old upgraded iMAC G5

    Hello,
    I have some strange problems on my old iMAC G5 (PPC without isight) that I upgraded with a 750Gb hard drive and 2GB of RAM (still running MAC OS 10.3.9).
    Most of the problems are intermittent and do not occur all the time. However, I could not find the reason for those problems and they could be extremely annoying.
    Here are the problems:
    - very slow data transfer (0.5Mbps roughly) when transferring large files to a USB key, while sometimes I get descent transfer rate (4Mbps)
    - extremely wireless connection while sometime it works great
    - wireless reception of my home network very bad. 1 or even 0 bar while with my newer mac book I get 3 bars.
    - wireless reception tend to vary, sometimes it is good, sometimes none (can't get an IP address)
    - slow burning to CDs in Toast: toast says the expected time is 3 minutes while acutally it takes 4 times longer.
    - sometime when I launch bittorrent the wireless reception worsten (go from 2 bars to 1 or even 0 bars)
    Any idea where the problems could be coming from?
    Do you think that a MAC OS upgrade could solve the problems ? in that case, which Os would you propose for a PPC iMAC G5?

    Hello jumanon
    littleshoulders has given you some great advice (including third party software) that you should surely consider.
    I offer three additions to his list that you can consider if you are still having problems:
    (1) Your comment on wireless variability may be the key.
    wireless reception tend to vary, sometimes it is good, sometimes none ...
    Someone else may be using or interfering with your wireless network. Whether surreptitiously or unintentionally, the result could be that which you describe. Interference might even be caused by someone in your own home using a wireless portable phone or other wireless device. Be certain that your network is secure (WEPA or better and password protected.)
    If you already have a secure network, someone's portable phone or another network nearby may be using the same channel as your wireless router or, at least, causing interference when you both happen to be using your respective systems simultaneously.
    The test for this possibility is simple. Change your router's wireless channel setting and see if the problem goes away. I suggest you try a channel as far from the current one as possible. For example, if your current setting is for channel 11, change to channel 1 (or vice versa) and try your system again to see if the problem disappears. If that change does not eliminate signal variability, try changing the router to channel 6 and test again.
    If you have not changed the channel before, see your wireless router's user manual for instructions on which menu choices you must set to do it. It is not difficult.
    If your problem remains regardless of whether you use channel 1, 6, or 11, channel interference is NOT causing your problem.
    (2) If you are still experiencing the kernel panics that you posted about previously, resolution of that problem may eliminate this one, too. The two might be related and could also be impacted by hardware peripherals that you use, so be sure to test after disconnecting all peripherals.
    Once you have eliminated kernel panics, the problems you post about here may also go away.
    (3) As littleshoulders says, slow performance on your 10.3.9 Mac can certainly be caused by inadequate Mac OS X Maintenance, including too little disk free space. If you have not performed routine maintenance, do so now and see whether performance improves.
    If necessary, you can use some of the tips in this kBase article to make more free space available.
    Please let us know how it goes.
    Cheers,
    EZ Jim
    G5 DP 1.8GHz w/Mac OS X (10.5.6) PowerBook 1.67GHz (10.4.11)   iBookSE 366MHz (10.3.9)  External iSight

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