Smart objects and convert color profile behaviour

I get different results when converting to the same color profile before and after converting to smart object. Why?
Do the following:
1. create a cmyk document with color profile 'Euroscale Uncoated v2' and fill the document with the color 86, 32, 14, 0
2. change the color profile to 'Euroscale Coated v2' -> the values change to 73, 29, 16, 0, no color change on the monitor
3. create a smart object -> the values stay the same, no color change on the monitor
4. create a second document like in step 1
5. create a smart object -> the values stay the same, no color change on the monitor
6. now change the color profile to 'Euroscale Coated v2' -> the values stay the same, this time we have a color change on the monitor
Why don't I get the same result?

I found this topic looking for an answer to this exact same problem.
Many of you refer to it as a bug / unexpected behaviour, which i thought it was either. But after some tests, it seems very logical behaviour actually to me now.
It simply follows the rules in the color settings.
In "Color Management Policies", when CMYK is set to "Preserve Embedded Profiles", it keeps the CMYK numbers for smart objects. Setting this to "Convert to Working CMYK" would make the color conversion as expected.
However, i don't think this would be a good idea (depending on your workflow offcourse). For example, pasting a 100K shape from a coated.icc illustrator file into an uncoated.icc photoshop file, as a smart object, would convert the 100K (not keeping the CMYK numbers).
I guess the workarround with a CMYK smart object into an RGB smart object (or maybe LAB), is ok to use when CMYK to CMYK conversion is really necessary for smart objects.

Similar Messages

  • Smart Object and blend mode issue

    I have an object that I moved from another image and needed to resize. The object is an image of a bottle and glass, with both the bottle and glass having reflections from their base. They both also have some layer masks with the reflections. I grouped the glass and bottle and created a smat object before the move to the new file). Anyway everything worked fine, except the reflections are much stonger in the new file (they are sitting over the same colored backgrond as in the original. If I open up the smart object and put a background behind the images  and the reflections (background is transparent)everthing looks as they should. The reflections have a blend mode of multiply).
    So why does the smart object not render the reflections properly (without lowering the opacity more within the smart object group) they appear almost at 100% in the new file. Any suggestions?
    Can't post the files as this happened at work.
    Thanks
    Jeff

    Anything to do with soft proofing?  Does the new document have the same colour space as the original?

  • How can I duplicate a smart object and then edit it, without affecting the original?

    I have a vector element from illustrator that I am placing in a tshirt mockup in photoshop. I have the layout essentially how I would like, but I am trying different color variations. I would think to just duplicate the first placement and then edit the color of the resulting copy, but this affects both the copy and the original. I looked into it a bit further, and found that I should try the "replace contents" option under smart objects, and that this would change the copy. So I go back to illustrator, made a copy of the original vector, and then made the color change I had in mind, and then saved it as a separate document that I could then use in replacing the contents of the copied. This however, is still affecting both smart objects!
    I have tried this as both linked smart objects and embedded smart objects without success.
    Ultimately, I simply want to maintain the position of the original layer with the duplicated and edited layers. If you know of a better way, please share!

    I'm on CC on a Mac.
    What 21 is talking about is making some sense.
    I am able to create new smart object via copy, then create a variation on the original file linked in the parent smart object. Then I save that from illustrator with a different file name. Then I go back to photoshop and replace contents of the new smart object, linking it to the newer illustrator file.
    This gets around the problem, but it takes a few more steps than the same thing did it in earlier versions of photoshop.

  • Odd color shift and OS color profile question

    I've run into something that leads me to believe that the OS X color profile management has caused me a problem. I'd like to figure out how to tell the OS to not manage color profiles in order to avoid future problems. So far this is only an issue when dealing with CMYK images.
    A little background...
    I received a JPEG image from a photographer. Converted it to CMYK and made minor edits in Photoshop, not touching the color profiles or trying to color correct. I saved a JPEG of the edited image, and imported it into Freehand 10. When imported, the entire image shifted slightly pink. When viewed in Preview or Photoshop it looked fine. It was only when I imported it that it shifted.
    A friend suggested this might have something to with color profiles, so I fiddled around with both PS and FH to make sure they were using the same ones. Even when they were the image shifted pink. This was on my desktop machine, recently upgraded to Tiger.
    I noticed my PowerBook was still running Panther. I took the same image, same data file, same programs and when I imported the image again, it was fine. Looked just like it did in PhotoShop and Preview. I immediately saved out a PDF for posterity and press use.
    Given the above, the only real variable is the version of the OS. This leads me to believe that there's something about how Tiger handles color profiles on the OS level that's causing this shift. What I don't know is how to remove the OS' meddling to remove it from the workflow.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks in advance...
    G4 Dual 867   Mac OS X (10.4.3)   768MB RAM, 120GBHD

    audi454 wrote:
    1. AdobeRGB
    2. Im not sure what you mean, preferences in PSE?
    3. My client has a print release, I use WHCC to print my pictures and I believe they require sRGB as well.
    4. Yes I always shoot in RAW.
    Thanks for taking the time to help, I looked at my Lightroom color settings since that's how I import my pics and it was set on Adobe Pro I believe... I changed it to sRGB.
    Sent from my iPhone
    Thanks for the info : I'll start with the 4th question because it's the less known factor with Elements
    If you shoot raw, the settings of your camera (Adobe RGB) will be ignored. This setting works only with the out of camera jpegs. A 'raw' file has no color profile, so PSE needs to know which profile you want for the conversion. You won't find any menu or dialog entries in ACR for that purpose. So, to convert the file when you 'Open' in the editor, PSE looks at the settings in your editor (my question #2, Menu Edit/Color settings...
    If you have chosen option 1, 'Always optimize for computer screens', PSE will convert the raw file to sRGB profile.
    If you have chosen 'Always optimize for printing', PSE will convert to aRGB...
    If you want to take advantage of the slightly wider color space of Adobe RGB because your home printer can use it, select the second option, but if you have to send the picture in sRGB, do not forget to convert before sending. Menu /image/convert color profile.
    If you don't want to bother, use sRGB with the option 1. You won't risk forgetting to convert the client version.
    Never use 'No color management' in the menu /edit/color settings
    If you first convert to sRGB with option 1, you won't get any advantage to convert to aRGB afterwards

  • Bitmap smart objects and anti aliasing, Photoshop CC

    Photoshop CC is doing a poor job of rendering bitmap smart objects, and I saw Chris Cox mention the checkbox to enable anti aliasing for placed smart objects. This works with vector smart objects, but this box is grayed out for bitmaps that I've converted to smart objects. The smart object bitmap renders poorly when manually rasterized too. I don't recall having this problem in previous versions of Photoshop. For now I'm going to avoid converting bitmap elements to smart objects so I get decent transforms.

    There are no jagged lines in that example - you're just rasterizing at a REALLY low resolution.

  • Can I place a smart object and specify a layer comp?

    I have many buttons, each as a layer comp, in a single file.
    I do this because there are many common elements: layers for the button base, shared features, button gloss, etc.
    What changes is the icon on the button, and possibly a supporting label.
    I want to place these buttons on objects in other files.
    So, I'd like to Place the file as a smart object AND SPECIFY THE LAYER COMP for the proper button.
    Anybody?
    Or maybe there is another approach?
    Much obliged!
    Dave

    I'm on CC on a Mac.
    What 21 is talking about is making some sense.
    I am able to create new smart object via copy, then create a variation on the original file linked in the parent smart object. Then I save that from illustrator with a different file name. Then I go back to photoshop and replace contents of the new smart object, linking it to the newer illustrator file.
    This gets around the problem, but it takes a few more steps than the same thing did it in earlier versions of photoshop.

  • Color setting and convert to profile

    i found that when i use the "convert to profile" to convert my image, the "intent" setting in Color Settings will affect the image conversion.
    That means the "conversion options" in color setting will overwrite/affect the same "conversion options" in convert to profile, is it a bug or is true?
    i am using PS CS6 v13.0.5.

    hi Pfaffenbichler,
    thanks for your reply,
    i am not sure is it a bug, maybe that is normal, but i have a question is:
    When i convert an image from LAB to CMYK color mode using "Convert to Profile" function
    If convert to profile > conversion options > intent: Relative Colorimetric, but color setting > conversion options > intent: Absolute Colorimetric
    the result is different with LAB value
    If convert to profile > conversion options > intent: Relative Colorimetric, but color setting > conversion options > intent: Relative Colorimetric
    As far as i know, the result of LAB should be same. It is because i think color setting will not affect the conversion.
    i made a pdf for your reference, hope you know what i want to explain.
    Many thanks.
    Regards,
    Ming-yiu CHEUNG
    Deputy Manager

  • Smart collection has "source color profile" as filter option, does not work on camera profiles

    In Lightroom 5 i tried to use the "source color profile" filter option in smart collection, however it only seems to work on rgb files (jpg, tiff) that have a profile embedded. It does not work on values like "Adobe Standard" which is a "source" profile of a RAW file, or any of the camera profiles i can choose fo given Raw file. What am i doing wrong?
    The Help does not give any clue on this, nor does the coverage by any of the Lightroom guru's like Juleanne Kost.

    In my opinion the filter is acting correctly.
    The Adobe Standard profile is not a profile defined in the source file, it is a profile assigned to the file in the raw converter and used with raw files that do not have a source color profile, already, so to me the filter is acting correctly because “source” means where the profile comes from, rather than what profile a master photo has had assigned to it. 
    The source-color-profile option is useful to determine the size of the color gamut in a file’s color numbers which indicates its suitability for various purposes:  An sRGB file can be safely uploaded to the web, an AdobeRGB file is going to look right on a wide-gamut monitor and printablebut shouldn’t be uploaded to the web, while a ProPhotoRGB file has a large color space and can be safely edited in a way that adjusts the colors significantly, especially if it is 16-bit, without color-banding or posterization, but a ProPhotoRGB file will probably not look good if directly uploaded to the web or sent to a print-shop that doesn’t do their own color profile conversions.
    I would agree that being able to filter raw files based on the assigned color profile would also be useful, but this is a different thing, to me at least, than filtering by the source-color-profile.

  • Photoshop, smart objects and dynamic filters performance issues

    Hello,
    I am quite new to Photoshop, after several years with Capture NX 2 to process thousands of NEF and  RW2 files (RAW from Nikon and Panasonic).
    I use Photoshop to read RAW pictures, convert them to a smart object, then apply several dynamic filters, mainly from the Nik Collection (Dfine, Color Efex Pro, Sharperner Pro), sometimes Topaz Denoise. I do that with actions, so I can batch process many pictures.
    But sometimes I have to manually adjust some settings, and this where I do not really understand the way Photoshop works. If I have to adjust let say the last filter on the stack, Photoshop reprocesses all the filters below, which can be very tedious as this takes lot of time.
    Is there a way to tell Photoshop to keep all intermediate data in memory, so if you have to adjust one of the last filters the process starts immediately?
    Any help would be greatly appreciate.
    Frederic.

    Thank you Chris.
    I am surprised, as for years there has been a lot of discussions about Capture NX2 which was supposed to be slow. In fact, when using the same filters (+ Nik Color Efex), NX2 is much much faster than Photoshop, and when you have to make an adjustment in any of the setttings, you can do that immediateley.
    Of course, Photoshop is completely opened and NX2 totally closed (and now not supported anymore).
    But, I really don't know how to adapt my workflow, except buying the most powerful PC possible (I already have 2 which are quite powerful), and this will still be far from being comfortable. I am used to tune manually many many pictures (adjust noise reduction, sharpening, light, colors ...), and this was quite fast with NX2.
    I am probably not on the correct forum for this, and I will try to investigate elsewhere.
    Anyhow, thank you for your answer.
    Frédéric

  • Convert Colors profile to threshold to black? [A9]

    Is there a reasonable way to create a color profile that can be used with Convert Colors to apply a threshold (180/255) function to convert an RGB PDF into a black-and-white PDF? Acrobat 9 (CS5), OSX 10.6.7.
    I have some multipage PDF files I want to "sharpen" (make clearer) before printing, and found that opening a page in Photoshop and applying Image > Adjustment > Threshold to 180 (out of 255) does a nice job. This is a pain for multipage PDFs because I have to extract the pages from Acrobat, apply a batch action in Photoshop, and then (potentially) re-integrate them into a PDF file.
    Acrobat can apply ICC profiles to convert an image via Advanced > Print Production > Convert Colors. But how can I generate an ICC profile that does something analagous to the threshold function?
    One crummy way is in Photoshop. Edit > Color Settings, which allows you to define a custom CMYK profile. Under Dot gain, you can set transfer function curves for C,M,Y, and K. I tried doing that, with curves at zero up until 70%, at which point I ran them straight up to 100% with a very steep (almost vertical slope).Tried a bunch of GCR/UCR/Black conversion settings. I saved the profile so Acrobat could see it. This gave me weird results:
    In Photoshop, it came close to doing what I wanted, but not totally, when I converted the image to that profile. But it wasn't drastically wrong. But when I applied the same profile in acrobat (with Convert Colors), it looked much much worse, with large blocky pixel groups and the document, which was mostly a raster image of text, almost unreadable.
    (Sorry for the lack of screenshots/images -- they're at the office, I'll post them tomorrow...)
    Any tips? Is there a better way to do what I want and apply a simple transform to a PDF file?
    A better tool to create ICC profiles for Acrobat's Convert Colors?
    Am I just using the wrong settings in Photoshop?
    Thanks!

    OK, some more info. So, my PDF contains letter-size pages with 300dpi 8bpp images that are DeviceRGB DCT-encoded (JPEG). Here's how Acrobat displays one of the characters:
    (All those obvious JPEG artifacts which explain why it prints badly and would benefit from processing). It looks pretty much the same in Photoshop (via Edit Image from Acrobat, or opening the PDF file directly). Thresholding it to 180 in Photoshop does a great job:
    For simplicity, I tried to build a Gray profile that did what I wanted. But it looks like Photoshop's gray profiles only let you adjust dot gain and gamma, and neither of those are sufficient to achieve this kind of effect. RGB doesn't let you use curves. So I converted the image to CMYK, and then Edit > Convert to Profile, then choose CMYK and Custom CMYK and define a profile like this:
    with these Curves:
    And it seems to do the right thing when the image is converted to it in Photoshop; not perfect but much better than the source:
    So, back to Acrobat, and apply the profile with Convert Colors:
    basically a disaster. and some very faint jpeg artifacts turn into a big blue rectangle.
    So what to do? Is there a better way to construct these profiles? Or should I give up and use batch operations?

  • Reduce bit depth or convert color profile first? (best practices question)

    For making final deliverable files from working files, is it best to convert to a new color profile before reducing bit depth? Or vise versa?
    Our working files are 16 bit with the ProPhoto color space. Our deliverable files are 8 bit AdobeRGB tiffs and sRGB jpegs. We convert using relative colorimetric with black point compensation. Does it make a difference which order these changes are made in?
    Thanks in advance for your help!

    A profile conversion recalculates RGB values, so yes, it should be done in 16 bit depth.

  • Smart Object with spot color

    how do I  import an illustrator file with a spot color into photoshop as a smart object without it being converted to four color

    Try thread http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1121348?tstart=0

  • After loading a JPEG file into adobe CC as a smart object and trying to resize image I get big jagged edges around the picture.

    Also, the anti-aliasing box isn't checked but is greyed out so I can't check it. How can I fix this issue? Thanks for any help!

    Smart object layers transform like pixel layers.  The resize may be using your default interpolation method. If you left it at Adobe default setting  Bicubic Automativ and you are down sizing a sharpen image it may be using Bicubic Sharper. When Bicubic Sharper is used on sharpened image jagged artifacts may happen.  Try changing your Photoshop Interpolation preference to plain bicubic. I'm not a fan of Bicubcr Automatic or Bicubic Sharper.  I will use Bicubic Sharper when I re-size my soft unsharpen images for the web.

  • Smart objects and filters in elements 10-how to?

    please help...thanks

    The main use of Smart Objects is to embed an image file into a PSD so that it can maintain resolution independence. This means you can non-destructively transform (scale, rotate, skew) the layer without losing the quality of the orignal file. You can still change the opacity or blend mode of a Smart Object layer and apply Layer Styles from the Effects panel as well. So Smart Objects allow for true non-destructive editing in Elements, but not with the sophistication of Photoshop CSx.
    Whether or not Viveza works with Photoshop Elements 10 is up to the manufacturer of the plug-in.

  • Smart objects and rasterizing

    I open most of my photos as smart objects, but over the last little while I have started using tools that require me to rasterize the photo.  Will I lose significant quality in the photo itself by doing this?  Or should I look at a different way of opening the pictures?

    Where there was nothing, there will be nothing. You can't possibly destroy info that the source pictures didn't have in teh first place and a pixel remains a pixel, smart or rasterized. I mean, once you save the final result to another format, any SO will be rasterized and its result "baked" into the pixels of the file, anyway, so what do you even hope to achieve by opening them as SOs instead of inserting them as normal layers? SOs make sense, yes, but only if you do quite a bit of warping and transforming and one may need to replace layer content, but otehrwise that sounds like you are only complicating your workflow and misunderstanding something that would only apply to vector artwork as being relevant for pixel data....
    Mylenium

Maybe you are looking for

  • Unable to install Adobe premier elements 9 on new computer

    I received Adobe Photo Element 9 and Premier 9 some time but my old computer did not have the capacity to load it. I have  a new computer and cannot load the software.  How can I load it (from the CDs included with the package) to my new computer.  I

  • Negative price of goods in MIGO

    When I try to do MIGO I get an error "M7 330 Price of goods mvt will become negative" Looking at PO History I notice there was a 101 and 102 for the same quantity but that ended up with different value, so that seems to be the reason of this wrong va

  • Purchase price variance

    Hi I want to to drill down the purchase price variance.Say I have PPV of 10K. I want to drill down to details of 10k.How to proceed.What is the transaction code for that? Thanks in advance. SN

  • C6380 text printing in red and slowly to reddish black

    My recently installed (4 days) C6380 photosmart prints photos very well,however, I noticed it printed text ,from a web site, first in red,second print in dim red fading into reddish brown and the third time all print in black /brown color. What gives

  • FDM logon issue

    I have congured the fdm 11.1.1.3 after installation for the first time. My FDM and HSS are in two different machines. When I am loggin in to workbench it's asking for username, pwd, domain. But I have a problem there. I am getting the following error