Sniper? or just a Low-light Focus Dot?

Just purchased a "Mint Condition" Used iSight external FW webcam off eBay ...
I noticed with first usage (at night), I could see a small red dot just above center, in the middle of the Preview window. Also noticed it in the camera lens area.
Is this a low or artificial light type focus dot? I actually don't see it today, with daylight coming in to light my face and study area.
Thanks.

Bill Connelly wrote:
Just purchased a "Mint Condition" Used iSight external FW webcam off eBay ...
I noticed with first usage (at night), I could see a small red dot just above center, in the middle of the Preview window. Also noticed it in the camera lens area.
Is this a low or artificial light type focus dot? I actually don't see it today, with daylight coming in to light my face and study area.
Thanks.
Nope. No focus (or other) dots with either of my working external iSights.
If there is no contaminant on iSight's clear front lens cover, perhaps there is something relevant in this recent post that can help you:
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=12711795#12711795
BTW, "good" (meaning BRIGHT) light gives best pictures with iSight:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3097
If the spot/dot is still there no matter what you try, your iSight's sensor may have one or more problem pixels causing the strange color you are noticing.
Message was edited by: EZ Jim
Mac Pro Quad Core (Early 2009) 2.93Ghz Mac OS X (10.6.5); MacBook Pro (13 inch, Mid 2009) 2.26GHz (10.6.5)
LED Cinema Display; G4 PowerBook 1.67GHz (10.4.11); iBookSE 366MHz (10.3.9); External iSight; iPod4touch4.2.1

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5d mark III focusing slowly/etc. in low light wedding receptions

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I have been having this issue with 5d3 performance since I bought it close to a year ago. I do wedding photography primarily, and I have quite a bit of experience shooting weddings and dealing with the various demands of weddings.
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This singular issue of the 5d3 has ensured that I will never buy another one (unless they fix that, which they won't). Unlike what I did with the 5d2 (upgraded to 5d2s towards the end of their product cycle), the 5d3 is too impaired for low light photography for me to be able to replace my 5d2s with 5d3s. I can only hope the next generation will NOT have the same low light focus delays...otherwise I might have to buy a few 6Ds just to keep up with more current tech (since my 5d2s will wear out eventually). I've heard they don't have the same doublechecking delay, but they also have other limits that I dislike (1/4000 ss, 1/180 flash sync, no pc sync port, SD memory only) and will have to work around.

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Check to see if Focus Assist with External Flash has been turned off or not.
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Thank you Mike,
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Use low ISO values to reduce noise. You can perform noise reduction with some computer software (my favorite is Noiseware Pro by Imagenomic.) But keep in mind that noise reduction in software also has the side-effect of softening the image (and if you go too far it looks like people have "plastic" skin.)
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Hello there, ankitnavgwal.
Good job on troubleshooting your issue so far. The following Knowledge Base article offers a great checkllist of practical steps for troubleshooting issues with iOS not functioning as expected:
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If a single application is not responding or stops responding when it opens, you can force it to close.
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If you are using an iPad, ensure that it's connected to the USB Power Adapter supplied with the device.
Let it charge for at least twenty minutes, then see if it starts normally.
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Go to Manual Mode.
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Hi, there is a FAQ related to this topic.
http://talk.sonymobile.com/t5/FAQ/Capture-better-photos-in-low-light-conditions/m-p/395397#U395397
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Nokia Lumia 925 with Black update - When low light...

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So I've played with my phone more ... and I don't think there is a big problem. If I move to a room that is darker, and wait a few seconds, the phone unlock screen isn't bright when I hit the unlock button. It seems the phone now needs longer time to get used to the light conditions it is in.
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Screen flickering in low light

Just wondering if any one is noticing the iPad screen flickering in low light?
I notice it mainly on a white page like apple.com nothing too major but enough to make me notice and wonder if it is just mine or a wide spread problem.

HI,
Try Resetting your iPad. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
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"I just went from a T3i to a 70D"
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Settings Suggestions (Low Light Performance)

For about a month once I year I do some photography work, primarily portrait type photos, (at a local amusement park for their halloween event) so everything is done typically at dusk and after dark under a lot of special effects lighting. For the last couple years I used my Canon Rebel T3 with a Canon 50mm 1.8 lens, recently I aquired the 1.4 version. After getting the 1.4 I'm considering using my Canon 50D as well for this years run. I'm just seeking advice on how to achieve less noise perhaps? For both bodies? Rebel seems noisy in low light sometimes, I've managed some nice results last year with the help of a external flash on it but I don't like blinding my coworkers working the event... so there's a bit of work going into my photos post production sort to speak before sharing the images. I never been to sure as to what settings to use, I primarily just shoot in either TV or AV mode. It would be an all new experience for my 50D as I usually take it to my local zoos to take pics because I use my 28-300mm lens on it, so any advice is appreciated!
I am considering buying a 6D, or a Nikon in the future but for now I'm just settling with what I got.

If money were no object, a 1Dx and a Canon EF 50mm f1. But seriously buying a 6D, or a brand-N, is not going to help.
At least not much more than what you already have. BTW, the 50mm f1.4 you did aquire is only 1/2 stop faster than the 50mm f1.8 you already had. Not a deal maker!
I love shooting at night and at dusk. You can get some truely interesting photographs. My best advice is shoot. Yes, shoot a lot. Because experience is the best teacher. No body here can tell you what settings to use. They have not seen the venue!
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6D low light video

Hello,
I'm trying to shoot video in low light and I'm getting some extra hue and contrast. When I shoot stills, what I see on the screen is what I see on my computer. When I flip over to video (with out changing ISO or WB settings) the images are darker and have a green hue.
I need what I'm seeing on the screen of the camera to be what I see on my computer monitor after I download of the card.
Any ideas?
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RobertTheFat wrote:
Skirball wrote:
I don't know about you, but my stills (RAW) are always darker than they are on my camera (6D); which is a jpg and might be part of the source. It wasn't near as noticable on my 450D. I just learned to adapt my eye and I check my histogram anyway. But I'd say the actual image looks about a 1/2 stop darker on my computer than the camera. I don't think it's abnormal to have small differences between the camera screen and computer. THere are too many variables to deal with to be consistent.
The most obvious explanation for that phenomenon (which means that you've probably already considered it and ruled it out) is that you've turned up the brightness of the camera's display screen. That setting is independent of all else, and it's easy to turn it up when the ambient light is high and then later forget that you did it. And maybe you didn't have the screen turned up as high on your 450D.
Also, of course, even a RAW image gets darker if subjected to any white balance correction (because that correction can only subtract, not add, light). I'd expect the screen to display the corrected image, but conceivably it doesn't.
Yes, that was the first thing that crossed my mind, but not just that the setting was turned up, but that the display is simply brighter. Although my old 450D seemed to be closer to the actual exposure it was terrible in the shadows. Things would look black on the camera but I'd still have detail on the actual photo.
I didn't bother looking for a brightness setting on my 6D for several reasons. 1) the brightness is really nice when you're out in bright sunlight; 2) I recognize there are far too many variables to expect any consistency between a small jpg with settings applied on a 3" backlit LCD to a full sized RAW file on a calibrated IPS monitor in a dim room; 3) I check my historgram constantly, I never trust what I see on the image, it's just a preview to get you in the ballpark; and 4) the IQ and recovery on the 6D is so good that I know if the image looks decent on the camera then I'll be able to make it work in post.

Sniper? or just a Low-light Focus Dot?

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