[Soft proofing], download profiel dont work

when i want to add a printting profiel to soft proofing i can only add profiels that are installed on my system.
you cannot instal a profiel that you have downloaded from website's.
profiel download from: http://www.profotonet.nl/t3.asp?path=h9l7wlzq
it would be great when it is possibel to use any profiel you want

I don't seem to be able to download from that link, but you're welcome to email me the profile to check [email protected]
Lightroom will only use RGB profiles.

Similar Messages

Soft proofing to sRGB not working as expected

I've gone through three customer reps via chat on this, and none of them had a clue.
I recently discovered the soft proofing capability in Lightroom 4, and watched an Adobe video about it. Looked pretty cool. I experimented with soft-proofing for printing to an Epson Artisan printer. I'd always struggled a little bit with prints being too dark, etc., but now I was able to produce the best prints I've ever had.
But then I started to experiment with soft proofing for sRGB. My photo club takes photo submissions as sRGB, and they then show them on a monitor during meetings. Sometimes they don't look so good. So, I figured soft-proofing them first would help correct that.
So, I've got a photo that has a lot of red in it (a flower). The soft proofing indicated pretty much all of the reds were out of gamut. I tried reducing the saturation, but they had to go pretty much completely desaturated (black and white) before Lightroom said they were in gamut. I also experimented with change the hue, but still no luck.
I then deleted the soft proof virtual copy, and just exported the original as sRGB. Looked fine.
This would seem to make the soft proofing to sRGB to be somewhat useless for me (at least for reds - seemed okay for the small number of other photos I experimented with that didn't have that much red).
Just wondering if anyone else has had issues with this, or if I'm doing anything incorrectly, etc.
Thanks!
P.S. Update... Last chat rep had me try something that seemed to work better. My photos are stored in Lightroom as JPGs with a color space of RGB and a color profile of ProPhoto RGB. If I export that photo to JPG / sRGB, then re-import it into Lightroom, and then do the soft proofing again, it works much better. The downside of this that the two-step process makes it a bit unusable for me.

> if I'm doing anything incorrectly,
You should not really try to do the bringing of the colors into gamut too much. I know the videos you see online show this but it is really counterproductive in many cases. You'll often completely desaturate or get really disagreeable hue shifts if you trust the out of gamut warnings as you have noticed. What you should do is turn on the softproof and check whether your image looks good and the colors don't shift too much. If they do or you lose essential detail, try to correct it using the HSL tools or local desaturation. The out of gamut warning is more useful when you are proofing to a printer profile and you might have colors that your display cannot show but your printer can print. For sRGB, not so much in my experience.
> Last chat rep had me try something that seemed to work better. My photos are stored in Lightroom as JPGs with a color space of RGB and a color profile of ProPhoto RGB. If I export that photo to JPG / sRGB, then re-import it into Lightroom, and then do the soft proofing again, it works much better
That's a silly answer that rep gave you. What happens when you export to sRGB is that all your colors will get truncated hard(it uses a relative coloremtric conversion) to the sRGB profile, so if there was detail there that you wish to preserve you just lost it and you won't be able to get it back. Of course if you then soft proof the sRGB jpeg to sRGB, you will have an easy time conforming it to sRGB, since it already is! The out of gamut warning it might show you on sRGB jpegs without any correction is not correct - a known bug or strangeness with how Lightroom handles these and just tiny touches on the sliders will make them disappear. It is fooling you and in fact you were better off not even trying to soft proof and simply exporting to sRGB and ignoring soft proofing.
P.S. the monitor problems you have noticed in your photo club are probably more an issue of the monitor not being calibrated and probably not using a color managed application to show the images. If your monitor is calibrated and that one is too and using a color managed app to show the images should give you very good correspondance in color between your monitor and that one regardless of what color space you choose for the images. That might perhaps be a good thing for the club. You really need to be calibrating monitors and use only color managed apps for display.

Download button dont work!

Have anybody else this problem? Im trying to download Skype from home page but seems the button for Get Skype or Download dont work for me!! Im using Firefox but until now everything works fine! Any ideea???

Try English.......
http://www.skype.com/en/download-skype/skype-for-computer/
That link is live at this moment in time - does it work for you or block you?
If its not working you might need to check or reset Firefox settings

Reader will not download, instructions dont work

Help Please

Ok, please let us know the following
1. What is your computer system? For example, Windows 7, Mac OS Yosemite, iPad...
2. Which instructions are you following? Please give the web page address with the instructions (you can copy and paste this from your browser)
3. EXACTLY which step in the instructions lets you down, and what happens instead?
4. If you get an unexpected message, please tell us the exact words.

Soft proofing quit working in 4.2 update

the Cloud just updated my Photoshop CC to 14.2 and now the soft proofing feature doesn't work properly. It slows the machine to a crawl and only shows unlinked blocks of proofs. It was working fine inm the last version.
Thanks anyone for helping

I am having the same problem with Apple TV 2 - My children's movies are showing all songs. Comedy movies the same.
I have changed 8 movies (meta tags) and call them kids movies, go to the Apple TV2 and shows all songs. When I update the genre and called the movies genres "business" it seems to fix it. I don't see any rime or reason.
I can't understand it - never had this problem with Apple TV 1
Thoughts?
I just bought the Apple TV and it was on 4.2 and now I am on 4.22

Soft proofing problem with wide-gamut monitor

Hi,
I've just upgraded to a wide-gamut monitor (Dell U2713H).
I set the colour-space to adobe RGB when using Lightroom (I'm on LR5).
When I select soft proofing , my picture goes grey (that is, where I was displaying the photo in the border, then changes to a uniform grey within the proofing border). If I click on 'create proof copy' the picture then displays.
When the picture is grey and I move my mouse over the image, I can see the RGB% values change, as if there is an image there.
Previously, I had a (rather) low-end viewsonic and had no problems - Soft-Proofing worked fine. All I did was install the new monitor.
I'm running windows 7, nvidia 8800GT card, 8gb memory. No system changes prior/after changing the monitor.
Everything else on the monitor works fine (better than fine, actually, it is a great monitor)
Soft-proofing in photoshop (CS6) works fine, for what that is worth.
I'm a bit stumped. Can anyone help?
hans

1234ewqrd wrote:
I set the colour-space to adobe RGB when using Lightroom (I'm on LR5).
What do you mean by this? Are you selecting Adobe RGB as color profile for you rmonitor? Or are you talking about selecting Adobe RGB as softproofing color space in Lr?
The fact that your images are grey in Lr is a strong indication that your new monitor is not calibrated and is way off the chart. It might be brand new but that does not mean that its tonality and color display is correct for photo editing in Lr.
Calibration is done with a piece of hardware called a spectrometer and the accompanying software. Brand names are Spyder, ColorMunki, GretaghMacbeth. After calibration the software creates a profile that is used by the monitor.
You don't select any other profile than the profile created by calibration and profiling for photo editing - irrespective of which program you use for photo editing.
In the meantime - as a temporary remedy and until you get the calibration tools - you can set your monitor to sRGB. Be aware that sRGB is a much smaller color space than what you rmonitor is able to display; with sRGB you basically prevent the monitor from displaing wide gamut.
See here on how to set the monitor to sRGB:
http://members.lightroomqueen.com/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/1137/188/how-do-i- change-my-monitor-profile-to-check-whether-its-corrupted
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4977176#4977176
Everything else on the monitor works fine (better than fine, actually, it is a great monitor)
You have no way of telling if the monitor works fine, i.e. if the monitor has the correct intensity (brightness) and if it displays the colors correctly, i.e. as a true representation of the color numbers. Our brain automatically adjusts colors to what they ought to be. What we see is basically unreliable for photo editing. Only a calibrated monitor will display the colors correctly.
Also, when you calibrate select an intensity (brightness) of araound 110 cd/m2 - irrespective of what the software suggests. Often monitors are way to bright which results in prints that are too dark.

Soft Proofing: may not work on my screen

First of all: Thanks so much for implementing soft proofing! Especially in such an easy way! I was really hoping you'd do it exactly like that.
Anyway, I've got a wide gamut monitor (Thinkpad W520 laptop screen). And I've got an image with a lot of strongly saturated reds (PowerShot S95, RAW).
Now, if I switch between Loup View and Develop View, I can see a huge difference in the reds because the Loup preview is sRGB (medium quality). I can also see the same difference when exporting to sRGB vs. exporting to AdobeRGB.
However, if I engage soft proofing and select sRGB, the image still looks the same. Only the little preview in the upper left changes to what I would expect.
That's not exactly what I would expect ^^
On the other hand, if I select a custom profile (AdoramaPix, lustre paper), the whole rig seems to work.
More information:
- Windows 7, 64 bit with 64 LR4 beta
- Whether relative or perceptual doesn't matter
- Only seems to affect sRGB
- The image shows very, very clear differences between sRGB and AdobeRGB on my monitor, so it's definitely not a visual problem on my end
- The histogram changes when switching between sRGB and AdobeRGB in soft proofing mode
- I really cannot see the slightest change in the image when switching
I hope you can find a fix or point out what I'm doing wrong because I would really like to use soft proofing for images published on the web, which is of course in sRGB.

I went on about this a little more scientific by creating an image with three rectangles: red, blue and green.
All of them are 100%, e.g. (255, 0, 0). Colorspace: ProPhoto RGB.
Results when exporting the images to AdobeRGB and sRGB, concentrating on the reds:
- sRGB looks very washed out
- AdobeRGB looks a bit washed out
- Original ProPhoto has so much red that it almost drives me nuts
Now, I would really expect similar results when activiating soft proofing.
But when selecting either AdobeRGB or sRGB, the reds always drive me nuts.
There is just no difference at all to the original ProPhoto image!
Conclusion 1: Dorin, you were right, previews are in AdobeRGB. What I saw in the reds was the difference between ProPhoto and AdobeRGB. Somehow my screen seems to have extreme reds (calibrated recently with an X-Rite ColorMunki Display).
Conclusion 2: Soft proofing with AdobeRGB and sRGB really DOES NOT WORK!

I've downloaded songs from itunes and they dont work. i can hear only half of the songs . how can i solve the problem ??

the songs i've downloaded from ituens store dont work !!! what can i do ??

There was probably a network error while downloading, try to delete the song and redownload it.
Delete the version in your library.
iTunes Store > Home Page
Far right has Quick Links, click on purchased and sign in
Locate your song and redownload

Hi, i have lost my code to download apps, my e-mail dont work anymore. how can i reset my password so i can download from appstoe.....pleace help me

hi, i have lost my code to download apps, my e-mail dont work anymore. how can i reset my password so i can download from appstoe.....pleace help me

If you have a backup for your iPhone with iTunes on your computer, you can get the iPhone's serial number and IMEI number from the iPhone's backup on your computer.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4061

Costco and soft proofing show dull washed out image

OK, so I am trying to utilize my nearest costco to print some images from lightroom 5. I am getting back dull washed out prints.
Facts:
I shoot in RAW in manual mode
I am using sRGB when I do my post processing
I export to jpg for printing
I used the costco LR5 plugin from Alloyphoto to upload to Costco
I have installed the printer profiles from drycreek for the specific location/printer and have chosen the correct profile as I export
I made sure that I chose to have Costco NOT autocorrect the color
Even when I use LR5's soft proofing, I get the same result on my monitor
I checked the print I got back and it says that they did NOT autocorrect (taken with a grain of salt)
The machine they are using is a Noritsu QSS-A, so I know my profile is correct
I have attached a screen shot of what I am seeing.
Why am I seeing this on my soft proofing as well as my prints?
How can I solve this and get vibrant prints?
Any advice would be helpful.
Message was edited by: moviebuffking

moviebuffking wrote:
I have calibrated my monitor as good as I can get without specific hardware. I have 18 years experience calibrating monitors (via optical media and my eyes), so I know that mine is very close.
It is virtually impossible to "accurately" set the Luminance, Gamma, and Color temperature "by eye." This is most likely the cause of your prints not matching the screen image you see in LR. That being the monitor's Luminance (i.e. Brightness) level is too set to high.
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/prints_too_dark.html
To see if this could be your problem I downloaded the posted screen shot and cropped out the 'Copy' image, which has your adjustments applied to it. Here are my results:
Click on image to see full-size
I needed to apply a full F stop (+1.0 EV) of Exposure correction to achieve a good midtone brightness level for the print image. You'll notice I also added -50 Highlights and +50 Shadows along with +25 Vibrance. I bet the image with my adjustments added looks way too bright on your uncalibrated monitor.
You have two (2) issues–Monitor Calibration and LR Basic Panel Control Adjustments
Monitior Calibration
I would highly recommend investing in a hardware monitor calibrator such as the X-Rite i1 Display and ColorMunki, or Datacolor Spyder models. If you tell me what make and model monitor you are using I can recommend specific calibrators.
Temporarily you can try adjusting the monitor "by eye" to get it closer to the desired 120cd/m2 Luminance, 2.2 Gamma, and 6500K Color Temperature using the test patterns at this site:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
When the monitors Brightness and Contrast controls have been correctly set the screen image should look much closer to the prints you have recently made with the LR Soft Proof adjustments. So in fact you will be adjusting the monitor to make it look bad with the LR adjustments you applied. The proper monitor settings will make the Lagom test patterns look correct AND should make your bad Costco prints now match the screen image using you original LR settings.
After changing the monitor's Brightness and Contrast settings try readjusting a few of the image files you had printed and send them to Costco as check prints. Compare them again to your monitor's screen image. They should be much better!
LR Basic Panel Tone Control Adjustment
LR's PV2012 Tone controls can provide much improvement to your raw image Highlight and Shadow detail. Start with all of the Tone controls at their '0' default settings and adjust them from the top-down in the order shown below.
1. Set Exposure for the midtone brightness ignoring the highlight and shadow areas for now. Setting Exposure about +.5 EV higher than what looks correct for the midtones seems to work best with most images.
2. Leave Contrast at 0 for now. You’ll adjust this after the first pass.
3. Adjust Highlights so that blown out areas are recovered and “fine tonal detail” is revealed.
4. Adjust Shadows to reveal fine detail in dark areas. For most normal images simply setting -Shadows = +Highlights (Example -50 and +50) works very well.
5. The Whites control sets the white clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
6. The Blacks control sets the black clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
7. Now go back and adjust the Contrast control to establish the best midtone contrast.
8. Lastly touchup the Exposure control for the best midtone brightness.
9. If necessary “touch-up” the controls using the same top-down workflow.
moviebuffking wrote:
Am I correct in assuming that the soft proof (with a certain profile) is a "preview" of what that print will look like?
Soft Proof does two things. It shows you what the image's colors will look like in the target color space (i.e. printer profile). You can see what (if any) colors are "out of gamut" by clicking on the small icon in the upper-righthand corner of the Histogram. You can also see if any of the colors fall out of your monitor's gamut by clicking on the small icon in the upper-lefthand corner of the Histogram.
When you check 'Simulate Paper & Ink' the Soft Proof image's contrast and color saturation are changed to make it look closer to what the "reflective" print image will look like when held next to the monitor for comparison. Many people have difficulty using 'Simulate Paper & Ink' since it requires using precise light levels for viewing the print and a well calibrated monitor.
In summary my best suggestion is to purchase and use a good hardware monitor calibrator on a scheduled basis to insure you have an "accurate" screen image inside LR and other color managed applications like PS.

Photoshop CC quits when setting up soft proof for Moab Slickrock paper

I use a Mac Pro with Mountain Lion and Photoshop CC, all with current updates. I had no problem downloading and using the Moab Slickrock icc profile from their website to make a test print. When I try to set up soft proofing, view-proof setup-custom, and choose Slickrock as the device to simulate, Photoshop quits suddenly. I tried it multiple times, restarted the computer, restarted Photoshop, removed and re-installed the profile all to no avail. I then installed the profile for Moab Lasal, and was able to set up soft proofing for Lasal with no problem. I can set up Slickrock with my copy of Photoshop CS6 with no problem and also with Lightroom 5.3 it will soft proof. I wrote to Moab and they said it was a known bug with no current solution.
Do you have any idea what is going on?
Soft proofing is not critical, but I do like to use it when I can.
Eric Brody

I am having this issue as well. I tried lightroom, but the soft proof is buggy there - it's a known bug I saw written up on MOAB's page. Supposedly Photoshop CS5 worked OK softproofing with this profile, but evidently, CC does not.

Soft Proof view mode problem for MOAB Slickrock Metallic Pearl Paper

I use the Soft Proof mode in Lightroom (LR) for editing printed output, and use either custom color profiles that I make (Spyder Print) or profiles supplied by the paper manufacturer. This feature works very well, much like the Custom View mode in Photoshop (PS). MOAB/Legion makes a neat paper called Slickrock Mettalic Pearl, that mimics the old Cibachrome prints, and the supply a color profile that works well in PS. However, when I toggle on the Soft Proof mode using this profile in LR, the image goes completely white, except for deep blacks which show up as bright green. When I actually make the print from LR, the print comes out okay, but there's no way to know if it's true to the proof view, since the proof view is unusable.
Viewing, editing and printing the same image in Photoshop (PS) 5.1 works fine. Editing and printing when view mode (Proof Setup > Custom) is to the same profile produces a print that's true to the proof view. So it seems that the problem is between LR and the .icc file. Here's the link to the profile file: Go to MOAB Slickrock Metallic Pearl Epson R2400 EPL.icc.
http://moabpaper.com/icc-profiles-downloads/epson/epson-stylus-photo-r2400/
iMac; OSX 10.7.5
LR 4.2
Photoshop CS5 12.1
Printer: Epson Stylus Photo R2400 (Photo Black ink)

Looks like a compatibiitly issue with Adobe LR soft proof:
http://moabpaper.com/display/Search?moduleId=3387293&searchQuery=Lightroom+soft+proof
...and PS soft proof:
http://moabpaper.com/moab-support-forum/post/2109935#post2144949

Adjustments for soft proofing to avoid washed out look

Hi, I've downloaded and installed my photo lab's printing profile. When I soft proof, everything looks washed out and lacks defnition. Blacks look gray and have little detail. Kind of an overall washed out look. I've tried adjusting contrast and saturation, but am underwhelmed with the results. What are the proper steps and areas of adjustment to try and achieve a closer match between the soft proof usng the lab's profile and my calibrated montior? Specific steps and areas of adjustment would help. I know the photo lab's printer gamut and paper makes the difference, but am left thinking there's a simpler way to adjust the photos for best results.
Thanks!

Hi, thanks for the suggestion, but you misunderstood my question. The profile is correct, the soft proofing is working as designed, the question is what controls/adjustments can I make in Aperture to adjust the photo to reduce this washed out look prior to sending the photos out to print. What Aperture adjustments have users found to correct for printer/paper/ink deficiencies? - L

Iphoto book -- how to soft proof

Does anyone know of a way to get a soft proof profile for an Iphoto book?

If you're using CS3 from within iPhoto for your editing then just set it up to manage the color as seen in this screenshot and follow the workflow described below.
Using Photoshop (or Photoshop Elements) as Your Editor of Choice in iPhoto.
1 - select Photoshop as your editor of choice in iPhoto's General Preference Section's under the "Edit photo:" menu.
2 - double click on the thumbnail in iPhoto to open it in Photoshop. When you're finished editing click on the Save button. If you immediately get the JPEG Options window make your selection (Baseline standard seems to be the most compatible jpeg format) and click on the OK button. Your done.
3 - however, if you get the navigation window that indicates that PS wants to save it as a PS formatted file. You'll need to either select JPEG from the menu and save (top image) or click on the desktop in the Navigation window (bottom image) and save it to the desktop for importing as a new photo.
This method will let iPhoto know that the photo has been editied and will update the thumbnail file to reflect the edit..
NOTE: With Photoshop Elements 6 the Saving File preferences should be configured: "On First Save: Save Over Current File". Also I suggest the Maximize PSD File Compatabilty be set to Always.
If you want to use both iPhoto's editing mode and PS without having to go back and forth to the Preference pane, once you've selected PS as your editor of choice, reset the Preferences back to "Open in main window". That will let you either edit in iPhoto (double click on the thumbnail) or in PS (Control-click on the thumbnail and seledt "Edit in external editor" in the Contextual menu). This way you get the best of both worlds
2 - double click on the thumbnail in iPhoto to open it in Photoshop. When you're finished editing click on the Save button. If you immediately get the JPEG Options window make your selection (Baseline standard seems to be the most compatible jpeg format) and click on the OK button. Your done.
3 - however, if you get the navigation window that indicates that PS wants to save it as a PS formatted file. You'll need to either select JPEG from the menu and save (top image) or click on the desktop in the Navigation window (bottom image) and save it to the desktop for importing as a new photo.
This method will let iPhoto know that the photo has been editied and will update the thumbnail file to reflect the edit..
If you're using a digital camera and not shooting raw then the camera's RGB profile will be very close to the sRGB IPC61966-2.1 profile that you can embed with PS and you shouldn't have to edit a photo just for the profile. However, if you do edit with iPhoto's editing tools the profile that gets embedded will be the one that the monitor is set to. iPhoto only embeds profiles on files it creates, i.e. modified files.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
Note: There now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

No paper appears for Soft Proofing in Snow Leopard and R1900 Epson printer...?

No papers appear for Soft Proofing a photo when using Epson R1900 printer and in Snow Leopard.
Print driver 6.62 is installed. Soft Profing papers are listed when an image is open in Preview but
can't print from Preview. None appear when a photo is open in Photoshop. Paper profiles
are listed in Color Sync Folder in Library but they don't appear for Soft Proofing when in PS.
How can I get profiles for Soft Proofing? They did appear when my printer was in Tiger & a Power Mac...?

I can't really tell which drivers you are using right now. It sounds like the best course of action for you is to uninstall all of the Epson printer drivers and reinstall them one at a time. You will need to go into the Library/Caches folder and delete the Epson folder. Also go into the Library/Printers folder and delete the Epson folder. In the PPDs folder, delete the .gz files for your printers, too. If you are using the Gutenprint driver, you will need to uninstall that first. You can download the uninstaller at the following URL:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/gimp-print/files/Uninstaller%20-%20Mac%20OS%20X% 20ONLY/1.2.6/gutenprint-uninstaller-1.2.6.dmg/download
Click on the file it downloads and uninstall Gutenprint.
Once all the drivers have been uninstalled, install the latest drivers for each of your printers one at a time and make sure each works before installing to the next one.
Hope this helps, Syd

[Soft proofing], download profiel dont work

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