Some digital photos too sharp

Dear All,
I have a problem with some digital photos being too sharp and causing problems with pixelation and jittery sections after being burned to dvd thru iDVD and DVD Studio Pro. I must go back and blur them in Photoshop to get rid of the problem, then reburn the DVD. What is the explanation for this? It is very unnerving to proof a dvd and then see these jittery sections come up that are not apparent when viewing through Final Cut Pro's timeline or in iDVD preview. Other photos taken on film don't cause the problem, only SOME digital photos either taken with a digital camera or clip art that is in digital form to start with.
Barbara Smits

What is the explanation for this?
Probably two things:
Video images are interlaced (two video fields make up one video frame) - with very sharp images, the high frequency detail can be slightly different in the two fields resulting in flicker as the interlaced image switches back and forth between field.
The sampling theorem says the sampling frequency must be twice that of the highest detail in an image or else the high frequency detail will be aliased as low frequency detail. Did you ever shoot a fine checkered pattern and see color bar 'smears' in the picture. Normally resizing the image in something like Photoshop usually removes the problem causing high frequency detail - but not always.

Similar Messages

Why are some of my photos tack sharp while others in the same series are out of focus?

My camera is a Canon Rebel XS (dSLR) and I primarily use the 50mm f/1.8 lens.
I shoot in Manual Mode with Autofocus ON.
I am having difficulty with my photos coming out incositant - some are out of focus, while others in the same series (taken a moment apart) are tack sharp.
I've attached two examples - one of the out-of-focus image, the other sharp images (both have been blown up).
It is not camera shake and my settings are identical for both photos. (ISO 200 | f/4.5 | 1/100sec in this instance.)
This has become such a problem that I find myself needing to take 10x more photos of the same subject/pose in order to hopefully get one sharp image from the series.
I have asked multiple people about this problem (though I have yet to take my camera and lens to a shop due to lack of funds) and no one has any idea of either what I'm talking about or what the problem could be.
I would appreciate your thoughts and help!
Thank you!
Fuzzy/Out of Focus:
Sharp:

This new pair of images does not look like camera motion -- this one looks like it missed focus.
If you use the included Canon Digital Photo Professional that came with your camera, you can right-click an image and tell it show you the focus point which were used (the camera wont know if you did a focus-and-recompose technique... so if you recompose after locking focus then the focus points indicated by DPP wouldn't be meaningful). But I bring this up because it would allow you to determine which focus point the camera claims it used.
I think you mentinoned that you used "One Shot" focus mode -- not AI Servo. One Shot should block the camera from taking the shot until it thinks it confirmed focus-lock on the selected AF point (or on at least one AF point it you allow the camera to pick from any of its available focus points.) In AI Servo the camera WILL take the shot when you fully press the button -- whether it successfully locked focus or not.
That brings us back to the subject of the focus test.
If you do not own a commercial chart, then you may want to download one from the Internet and print it. Here's a good site: http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart
Print the chart and follow the instructions. I deliberately run the camera out of focus to nearest focus distance and force the camera to re-focus and shoot... and I repeat this at least a half-dozen times. I then repeat... but this time deliberately run the camera out of focus to infinity before forcing the camera to focus and take the shot.
Track each shot as you do the focus test. You may see a pattern emerge (e.g. perhaps it nails focus when going in one direction to find focus... but misses in another, etc.) Such a pattern might indicate the lens is getting sloppy and needs service (it's usually not worth servicing the 50mm f/1.8 due to it's low cost.) The USM and STM lenses allow full-time manual focus override (even if the lens is auto-focusing). The basic auto-focus motor lenses (like the 50mm f/1.8) do not support this and forcing manual focus without disengaging the focus system can be harmful.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Digital photo display in Imovie.....please help!

Hello, this is my first time posting on here and I really could use some help. I am creating a slide show in Imovie 6 with all photos. Some photos I have scanned and they work fine. The problem I am having is with my digital photos. When I play them individually they are fine, but when I play them in the movie, they come out slightly blurry. You can really tell in the eyes of the people in the picture. i originally created the movie on a Macbook and then my backlight went out, so I transferred the movie to my external HD and then to a Powerbook. I also transferred all of the pictures into the powerbooks Iphoto folder. How can I get those digital photos to come out correctly? I need this video finished ASAP. Thanks so much for any help you can offer.
MacBook/Powerbook Mac OS X (10.4)

Some photos I have scanned and they work fine. The problem I am having is with my digital photos.
What are the pixel sizes of the scanned vs digital photo images?
Sometimes using TOO large images files can cause problems. Unless you have done a lot of Ken Burn's Zooming, this article gives you a good idea of the images sizes to use. iDVD 6.0 Help - Preparing images for DVD slideshows at http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=iDVD/6.0/en/17.html
When I play them individually they are fine, but when I play them in the movie, they come out slightly blurry.
Do you mean in the iMovie PREVIEW window? If so, you should know that it doesn't show the actual image sharpness of the final movie.
How do you intend to view the slideshow - as a QuickTime file on your computer or as a DVD in a DVD player?
If you plan on going into iDVD, when asked by iMovie if you want iMovie to render your files before sending them to iDVD SAY NO.
F Shippey

Mimicking Canon Digital Photo Professional Picture Styles

I use a Canon 400D and I would like to be able to use Lightroom in such a way so as to be able to mimic the Picture Styles that the Canon Digital Photo Professional software can produce.
The Canon Picture Styles include settings called Standard, Landscape, Portrait, Neutral, and Faithful. I am mostly interested in the colour rendition produced by each of these Picture Styles.
Does anyone have any presets or the like that will enable me to mimic these Picture Styles in Lightroom to at least some degree? The ones called Neutral and Faithful are of the most immediate interest to me.

It may be helpful to know what the Picture styles are doing to your images in the first place.
Standard takes the pictures with a "normal" colour balance,it increases contrast and saturation a little and increases sharpening to 3 on a scale of 0 to 7
Portrait takes the picture with a slight colour bias towards red to enhance the skin tone, it increases contrast and saturation but less so than standard, sharpness is set to 2
Landscape takes the pictures with an increase in the blues and green colours, contrast and saturation are increased more than in standard, sharpness is set to 4
Neutral does nothing much to the image with no increase in saturation, contrast or sharpness which is set to 0. the colours are handled in the same manner as Standard
Faithful is the same as neutral but the colours are based upon a white balance of approximately 5200K, it is designed to minic film in how it handles the colours. It too does not sharpen the image.
More details can be found at http://web.canon.jp/imaging/picturestyle/index.html
I know this does not answer your questions but it at least should start you in the right direction

Lenses not listed in the Lens Optimizer in Digital Photo Professional

As the topic title states my lenses are not listed in the Digital Lens Optimizer. I've placed the CD in the tray, and yet the program says it's connecting to the server, and when done, they are not found in the list. The lenses are:
EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II
EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II
Why are they not listed? How do I get them?
DPP version 3.13.0.1
EOS 70D / EOS Rebel t4i / EF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS II / EF-S 55-250mm f4-5.6 IS II / Sigma 17-50 f2.8/ Canon EF-S 60mm f2.8 macro/ Canon EF 100mm f2.8 macro/ Tamron 70-300mm / 430EX II Speedlite / Canon FS 300
Canon Pixma MG 3100 / Canon LiDE 2100
Adobe Lightroom 4, Canon DPP, Corel Paintshop Pro X4

Of the lenses I have, the following are not supported by DPP 4 (However, they are supported "in camera" with EOS Utility 3)
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II USM
Canon EF 20-35mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Canon EF 28-90mm f/4-5.6 USM
Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
Canon EF 75-300mm f4.5-5.6 USM
I don't care if they are "old" lenses or not. Why have the correction profiles for "in camera" correction (when saving/converting to JPG) and not in DPP 4? They have the data, they could just port it over from the database used in EOS Utility 3.
These lens correction profiles bring new life to some of the old "film" lenses like the Canon EF 20-35mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens. That lens has lots of distortion. However with in camera correction, it now produces good pictures.
I am not a professional photographer. I am a photography enthuisasts. I'll NEVER spend $1,000.00 or more for an "L" series lens (in fact I sold the Canon 24-105 f/4 L "kit lens that came with my EOS 5D. It was way too heavy, and the zoom on the low end was cramped (only 4mm movement between 24mm and 28mm). I like/use my Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM and Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM better.
Maybe my mistake is that I am using a program call Digital Photo Professional and I am not a professional. I noticed that that software leans heavily and supports the "L" series lenses.

Rendering of RAW images in LR5 vs Canon Digital Photo Professional

Just as a pre-amble, I love LR and perform 90% of image processing with it (rest in PS). I use a Canon EOS 5D MKIII shooting in RAW, running LR5 on Win7. My monitor is properly calibrated.
Every so often I view a RAW image with Canon DPP mostly to display the AF point. What I am noticing is that the DPP SW renders the image very different from LR and I tried every LR Profile. In my opinion the DPP rendering is sharper, with less noise and a more natural look. My latest example of the difference in image rendering is from images taken with the Canon 200-400 1.4 zoom lens. This difference in image rendering is after RAW import with no images editing on either application. I just wish there would be a LR profile that yields a similar quality image. Does anybody share my experience on this?

Panagon-1 wrote:
it would be of no surprise to me if Canon has some advantage with rendering their own proprietary RAW camera output.
Canon has been working on their Digic raw->rgb engine whilst Adobe works on their process versions & camera profiles. But, more likely any "advantage" is due more to the defaults&compensations, rather than inside knowledge of sensor behavior - just a guess, but one based on experience, even if no specific inside knowledge (about Canon sensors & software algorithms) of my own..
Panagon-1 wrote:
because of animal hair, bird feathers, whiskers, etc.
If picture is sharp already (i.e. sharp lens, in focus, sufficient shutter speed ... ) then you may prefer a lower radius sharpening, as trshaner was saying.
But, another approach for such wildlife photos is:
* instead of sharpening everything (even if relying on sharpening mask to some extent), set global sharpening amount to zero (or 1, at first), then sharpen subject by hand (using locals only). Or, set global low and supplement using locals..
I acknowledge it takes more time, and you may not want to do it to each of 50 shots in a burst, but it allows you to minimize global (luminance) noise reduction (which tends to smooth feather detail in a way which is hard to recover). And of course Lr5 supports local noise reduction, so you can also clean some stuff up locally.
Also worth noting: local sharpness = -50 (exactly) eliminates all global sharpening (but does not blur, unless you overlap pins). So if you do decide to sharpen globally to some extent, consider cleaning up some parts locally using:
* sharpness = -50
* noise reduction = whatever-ya-need.
Also, if you do apply some luminance noise reduction, consider cranking luminance noise reduction "detail" way up to preserve feather & hair detail (and keep sharpening detail lower on those high-ISO shots, so you don't need as much lum.NR, which produces better results, IMO). Hint: if you drop sharpening detail down and add lum. NR, you may need higher sharpening amount (and/or radius) to keep from being too soft.
Rob

Photos too grainy!!

I have a lot of grainy pictures that I need to fix. What's the best way to make them sharper? I tried using the "Sharpen" feature but it made it look way worse. Thanks!

Julie,
Your problem is a very common one with digital photos. What you need is a noise filter. There are many on the market. Some have free download versions. I use Neat Image and Picture Cooler. Check out neatimage.com to see if they still have a free downloadable version. Picture Cooler was developed by a Dutch man and actually getting the filter involved, for me, many, many emails back and forth. We had a real language problem. But I think if you go to denoiser.shorturl.com you will do better than I did. Picture Cooler uses a different system than most noise filters--don't ask me to explain it--and is very good. I hope this is helpful to you. I am going to try both filters on your photo and see what happens.
Anne

Straightened or cropped photos lose sharpness

The following phenomenon which annoyed me in iPhoto 08 and is worse in 09. The phenomenon is not processor- or display-dependent -- I see it on both my G5 with 23" cinema display and my 13" MacBook.
I don't currently have RAW capabitlity so the following all refers to JPEG images:
Try this:
1) Find a photo that has a fair bit of sharp fine detail -- architectural stuff is good, like houses with wrought-iron bits, small bricks/tiles/ornaments or similar.
2) Open the image in Edit mode and use the Straighten function to rotate the image a few degrees. You'll see that the image loses some of its sharpness. (Alternatively, crop the photo a bit -- same result.)
3) Click the Done button or move to the next photo to record the Step 2 change permanently.
4) At this point you can directly reopen the image, or you can quit and restart iPhoto, or even quit and restart the Mac, and then reopen it. You'll see that the image is still slightly unsharp.
5) Now grab the picture size slider and move it just fractionally (the smallest amount you can) to the right. After a few seconds, more or less, you'll see the image regain its former sharpness. Move the slider back to the extreme left again, and once again you have the less-than-sharp image.
Having discovered this in iPhoto 08, I had developed a solution, which was to open the image in Photoshop, make a tiny inconsequential edit -- just enough to get Photoshop to rewrite the image when you resaved it (as a JPEG to replace the iPhoto original). Having done this, the image would then open in iPhoto in its correctly sharp form.
The bad news is that in iPhoto 09, this solution doesn't work!
I'm not sure what to do at this stage. It looks as though I may simply revert to iPhoto 08 --- I don't want to have to move the size slider every time I look at a photo to see the "unfuzzy" version.

I have the same problem; the only way is to export photos straightened and re-import them again into the library. But i found some cases in which this workaround doesn't work at all: in some cases photos remain "out of focus"; this is only a view problem in i-photo, because viewing them in an external editor no loss of sharpness is found. This is very strange because in this case photos have not an associated modification that has to be applied on them; in this case photos are like originals but they look out of focus too. I tried to reload the thumbnails reloading library (with command+option buttons while clicking on iphoto icon) but nothing changed. Is there a way to have photos look as they are?
I think this is a big problem, since i-photo is a tool which main functionality is to view photos.
Message was edited by: raven10

When accessing Sams Club web site using Firefox and go to Photos, then Pricing, it brings up Digital Photo Center, but when I click items nothing comes up. I turned on my IE and the information was there. What's wrong with Firefox.

When you go to the link above go to Pricing Under Information - last item). That takes you to Sam's Digital Photo Center page. On the left side click on any of the items listed and I get nothing. This information shows on IE

Hello,
'''Try Firefox Safe Mode''' to see if the problem goes away. [[Troubleshoot Firefox issues using Safe Mode|Firefox Safe Mode]] is a troubleshooting mode that turns off some settings and disables most add-ons (extensions and themes).
''(If you're using an added theme, switch to the Default theme.)''
If Firefox is open, you can restart in Firefox Safe Mode from the Help menu by clicking on the '''Restart with Add-ons Disabled...''' menu item:<br>
[[Image:FirefoxSafeMode|width=520]]<br><br>
If Firefox is not running, you can start Firefox in Safe Mode as follows:
* On Windows: Hold the '''Shift''' key when you open the Firefox desktop or Start menu shortcut.
* On Mac: Hold the '''option''' key while starting Firefox.
* On Linux: Quit Firefox, go to your Terminal and run ''firefox -safe-mode'' <br>(you may need to specify the Firefox installation path e.g. /usr/lib/firefox)
''Once you get the pop-up, just select "'Start in Safe Mode"''
[[Image:Safe Mode Fx 15 - Win]]
'''''If the issue is not present in Firefox Safe Mode''''', your problem is probably caused by an extension, and you need to figure out which one. Please follow the [[Troubleshoot extensions, themes and hardware acceleration issues to solve common Firefox problems]] article to find the cause.
''To exit Firefox Safe Mode, just close Firefox and wait a few seconds before opening Firefox for normal use again.''
When you figure out what's causing your issues, please let us know. It might help others with the same problem.
Thank you.

Is there a phone number to call Adobe. I go around an endless loop pressing their contact info tabs? Maybe someone at this sight can help. I am new to digital photo - I have been a B&W film photographer for many years. I have a problem with a Macbook Ai

Is there a phone number to call Adobe. I go around an endless loop pressing their contact info tabs? Maybe someone at this sight can help. I am new to digital photo - I have been a B&W film photographer for many years. I have a problem with a Macbook Air. It was working fine - I was using LR and a message came on the screen that said something like the memory was dangerously low. I stopped and tried to delete LR files. I couldn't do it. I closed the program and tried reopening and got the message that there is not enough memory available to open LR. I contacted Apple. They spent a half hour on the phone with me and eventually told me they didn't know how to help. The tech said that LR had gobbled up all the memory and said I should contact Adobe and ask where and how my photo files are stored and to delete them. I have several back-ups. Thanks - Arthur

This sort of error message only comes up for Lightroom when your hard disk is full. Indeed this has nothing to do with internal memory as that will be intelligently be dealt with. If you have a mac Book Air that is not so surprising as the cheapest versions come with very small hard disks and if you shoot raw with any recent camera, you'll fill up your hard disk very quickly and you can probably only store a few months of pictures if you are a typical photographer. So the bottom line is that you need to create some room on your hard disk. You should move some of your originals to an external hard disk. You can also delete some of your backup copies of your catalog file that Lightroom automatically generates every few days and that quickly gobble up hard disk space. So first figure out how full your hard disk is. To see that, go to the apple menu, hit -> About this Mac -> More info->Storage. You should see your internal hard disk on top and you'll find that it is almost entirely full with photos. Now find your Lightroom catalog file using Finder. It is usually in a folder in the Pictures folder in your home directory. You should see a Lightroom 5 Catalog.lrcat file, a previews file and a folder called backups. Inside the backups folder, you'll find a lot of subfolders. They have names that show the dates the backups were created. If you have backups of your entire hard disk, you can delete these backups when they are older than a few months. I usually only keep the last 4 around. Just drag the folders into the trash can on the dock on the bottom of your screen and empty the trash. This will probably free up enough space that Lightroom will already run again. Now start thinking about where you will want to store older images. If you have a good USB3 or Thunderbolt hard disk that is probably the best option. There is a video here by Adobe that has some instructions on how to do this: Is Your Hard Drive Full? Here’s How to Move Images to Another Drive in Lightroom. « Julieanne Kost's Blog If that doesn't work because you don't have enough hard drive space to run Lightroom yet, here is another set of instructions to move your files using the finder to the other hard disk: How do I move only my photos to another hard drive, leaving the catalog where it is? - The Lightroom Queen. If you follow that, as soon as you confirm all your images are on the new hard disk, you can delete them from your internal one. She is not so clear about that part but if you don't delete the originals that you moved off you don't free up space. You should move the folder structure over to the new hard disk and then reconnect the folders in Lightroom. That should make it refind all your images.
That said, if you are uncomfortable with the computer in itself, your best bet is to find a local photography club. There is invariably a Lightroom savvy person in there that could help you move your files. That might be your best bet if you are uncomfortable moving these yourself. A general mac savvy person like you would find at an Apple store or so generally will not be able to help you with this except when they are photographers themselves and know Lightroom. You might get lucky with that.

Need to prep some still photos for doc project & don't have photoshop

My producer just sent me some photos to use but they are way too hires for Final Cut and also some need to be rotated and cropped. Usually I use photoshop for this but haven't upgraded to the new version and the old version won't work with OS 10.5 so what can I use? Does Final Cut studio include software that would help me do some basic photo manipulation? I have never used Motion but it seems way too complicated for what I need to do.
Can I use iPhoto or will that compromise my picture quality in some way?
Thanks!
christy

GraphicConverter.
On Apple Downloads: http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/imaging_3d/graphicconverter.html,
Or search for it on versiontracker.com or lemkesoft.com
It is fully functional unlicensed, but well worth the money.
Message was edited by: Nick Holmes

Lightroom 5.5 and Digital Photo Professional 4

My workflow includes processing my Canon 6D RAW files in LR exporting them in reduced size JPG format to a folder on my external drive and then opening up the images in Digital Photo Professional (versions 3 and 4) to review and tweak before submission.
I updated to LR5.5 and DPP4 simultaneously (stupid). Now when I follow the above work flow, the JPG files created in LR5.5 can not be read in DPP4 (or DPP3). I have called Canon, they are not aware of the issue and had no really good feedback. DPP4 can read all other previous LR JPGs created prior to the update to LR5.5.
I have uninstalled DPP3 and 4 and reinstalled DPP 4 with same results.
Anybody on the Lightroom end know of any possible explanation?
Thanks,
Don

The short answer is that Adobe changes something in LR and PS-ACR that puts the JPG header sections in a different order, and while this may be within the JPG standard, some programs including DPP don’t know how to handle this change, and won’t open the LR 5.5 JPGs.
The release notes for ACR 8.6 RC say Adobe has changed things to make JPGs readable by more applications. Presumably this will reverse whatever was changed, but there is no LR 5.6 RC so you’ll have to wait for LR 5.6 final, or put LR 5.4 back if you don’t have a camera that needs LR 5.5+.
Older versions of LR are available at the Adobe Updates page:
http://www.adobe.com/downloads/updates

Digital Photo Professional

Hi,
The Canon 70d is a very nice camera that is quite new.
Will the DPP 4.1.xx software be available for it in the future?
Thanks,
Steve

KingEyre wrote:
This is the info, including the link to the Canon website.
Canon has released an updated version of its Digital Photo Professional (DPP) software, which now supports – in addition to its current range of full-frame DSLRs – the EOS-1D Mark IV, EOS 70D, EOS 7D Mark II, EOS 7D, EOS 5D Mark II, EOS 700D and EOS 100D…
Launched in September 2014, Digital Photo Professional 4 was Canon’s first sweeping change to its popular RAW processing software since its original launch. The latest version of DPP – version 4.1.50 – is a response to feedback from owners of older full-frame and APS-C cameras who are looking for the very latest RAW workflow solution.
Additionally, DPP 4.1.50 supports the recently launched EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM and EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM lenses, the profiles for which are now available for use with the Lens Correction function.
Commenting on the update, Mike Owen, European Professional Imaging Communications Manager, Professional Imaging Department, Canon Europe, said: “DPP 4.0 has proved incredibly popular with our customers and this latest update further extends its appeal to a wider range of users, such as those using the highly successful EOS 5D Mark II. Canon remains firmly committed to offering a complete range of products to photographers and increasingly its software solutions are playing a vital role in delivering the ultimate in image quality from capture to output.”
DPP 4.1.50: KEY FEATURES
Faster, real-time adjustments.
Improved RAW file workflow.
Better, more approachable user interfaces.
Compatible with 64-bit native environments.
Colour adjustments for specific colour gamuts.
Improved highlight recovery provides expanded tonality.
Improved shadow recovery function.
Support for movie playback.
Auto Lighting Optimizer can be applied to JPEG images.
Better integration with EOS Utility.
You can download DPP 4.1.50 now, free of charge, from Canon Europe’s support site here. Just click on your camera – EOS-1D X, EOS-1D C, EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 5D Mark II, EOS 6D, EOS-1D Mark IV, EOS 70D, EOS 7D Mark II, EOS 7D, EOS 700D and EOS 100D – and select DPP 4.1.50 from the software options to download.
I got it, and it seems to work. I haven't had a chance yet to see whether it fixes any of the bugs in the previous release or improves on the awkward user interface. But it does work on my 7D RAW files, which is what I badly wanted. That said, it still doesn't work on files from my wife's T2i; and since we do some photo shoots together, that remains an annoying inconvenience. I think they should just make V4 work on all .CR2 RAW files.
As of this morning, the new release is still not on the Canon USA Web site, nor is there any mention of it there.
If you haven't downloaded DPP V4 before, don't be blindsided by the fact that they make you enter the serial number of a qualifying camera. If you don't have that on your computer, you'll want to look it up ahead of time.
There's also a new release of Version 3 of EOS Utility. But it appears that the only addition is the aberration data for one or two recently released lenses.
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

DPP Digital Photo Professional and Flickr

hi there...
on begin i want t osay sorry for my not precise speling..
im DPP user and lover...i was think of come to this forum long ago but like it happend i was late so im now ..
ok ..my point its DPP Software...
on Flickr there is Group where peoples can upload photography what was processed in Digital Photo Professional..
but 90% of users fomr that group uploading mostly photography what was process in Photoshop ..
i was join that group cus i was liek to be sourounded by peoples who using only DPP for own creactions.
i dont have problem in using Photoshop and i realy love it to but.. bUT now im itno DPP .
so..i was drop few short messages in DPP Flickr group about lack of DPP photos and high amount of photos what are not realy belong to group..but my posts was ignored ..
i was little confused abotu ignorance of Admins about subject..( admins from Flickr )..group have note .. DPP PHOTOGRAPHY ONLY !!
s oits mean DPP and nothin kelase !..but peoples just ignore it and admin pick in own group some amount of peoples who are mostly Prest users on Photoshop .
i dont see sense in uploading Photo to Gropu what it not belong..its clear and not complicated to understand .. DPP ONLY !..
ok
i done next post in group..but this time i focus on ignorance ..i was talk betwen words to Owner of group.... gently talkin just hit wall nothink more..so i decided to use Alternative form of comunications...i was banded..well..i understand why..
group have around 1890 users..70% of them dont have idea how to use mouse.. and 60% of them never sean DPP..
My call to admin was t oremove photos what are done not in DPP.. i was removed .. i try undertand why ..!? cus alternative form of communication what always works on ignorants ? i tihnk yes..
but im not here for crying or crying..
im here cuz i want to start new DPP Digital Photo Professional Group in Flickr.. but i mena Real DPP.. not PS or LR..but for this i need help from u guys..i mean guys from Canon who maybe can made own Sign like a stamp for new DPP gropu..alsow will be realy graate if some of u ( best is all ) .can join time to time gropu and maybe answer for some tech questions ..? if i will fail in..
once more time sry for not precise speling.. hope i get some feedback..
Edit :
group will have name DPP and DPP++ Photography .
but now i know who is admin of that group so im wonder if im allowed to open group with name DPP in or i dont..

Hi MztengaM!
Welcome to the Canon Forums, and thanks for your post. Canon USA does have a Flickr Group already established! It's called "Canon Imagination." While it does not focus solely on Digital Photo Professional, it is the one and only official Flickr Group for Canon USA. Feel free to join and contribute! This is the URL for the group: http://www.flickr.com/groups/canonusa
Happy shooting!

Photos from computer to empty card for digital photo frame?

I've downloaded 1,000 photos from my camera to the computer and want to empty the card and use it afresh. Is it possible to then load a selection of photos from iPhoto 6 onto an empty card so that I can play a short selection in a digital photo frame? and please how do I do it?
Thanks,
Elizabeth

If you want to clear a card simply use your camera to Reformat the card. It takes a couple of seconds to do it. For specific details on doing it on your camera see your manual, or root around in the menus
To put pics on a Card for a digital frame:
Select the pics in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export and export them to a Folder on the desktop. Then drag that folder of images to the Card.
Most cameras will mount their cards on the Desktop. However some brands (not mentioning Canon and Kodak in particular, just in passing) don't. The only way around this is to pop the card in a USB Card Reader, and it will turn up on the desktop.
Regards
TD

Some digital photos too sharp

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