Soundproofing a G5?

Hi folks,
My G5 produces a lot of noise, (the fans come on full blast as soon as I hit record in STP, for example, and then kick in intermittently). Which makes voiceovers very difficult. I have no nearby closets that would work for a recording booth, and I would have to take apart and reassemble my entire office (or buy lots of long cords) to get my G5 into the closet.
Is there a good solution here? Some sort of soundproofing enclosure for the G5, maybe? I've thought about building one, but it seems that anything that traps sound will also trap air and heat, which is probably a bad idea. Anyone have any suggestions?

Well, the new Mac Pros are MUCH quieter than the old G5's but that's probably not the answer you wanted to hear. Another option is something like an Isobox, again not cheap but will do the job well.
http://www.custom-consoles.com/isobox.php
You could also get a remote keyboard,video extender and relocate the CPU into another location.

Similar Messages

256 kbps vs 320 kbps

I have my songs on a music website that allows what they refer to as "Super Hi Fi" mp3's,
I've always used 256 kbps because I heard it will play on more players, but now I'm questioning if that is true. I would like to change my settings to Super Hi Fi or 320 kbps. I changed to that bit rate under "custom settings" but there are other varibles and I'd like to know which is best or which have pros and cons. Should I click or unclick on "Use Varible bit rate encoder (VBR) At presentit is checked.
Then there is "Normal" or Joint Stereo". What's the difference? At present I have "normal" setting
I'm using MP3 encoder. Is Apple lossless better? What id Aiff encoder. I have quality set to highest and 44.100 KHz. I want the best possible sound quality but will it be too fast for some computers. I want it to play as universally as possible but I also want the best quality. Someone told me 256 kbps is the best compromise - lose a little quality but gain more playability on more puters. Thank you for your help!
(This applies only to my original songs created on GB and exported to itunes, not to imported songs.)

the_official_noah wrote:
how many 320 kbps M4A's would take up 8 GB, and how many 256 kbps would take up 8 GB?
You would get 1/4 more with 256kbps. (100 songs @ 320 = 125 songs at 256)
Also, would I be able to tell a difference betwen the two with my Apple EarPods?
No. Doubtful you could tell the difference between 256 kbps AAC and 128 kbps AAC using earpods and iPhone.
Perhaps if you were sitting it a soundproof room and doing nothing else but paying specific attention to the music. But everyday use, you won; notice.

Samson c01U was clear on G4 PPC but has excessive digital hiss on Imac

I posted this in the imac forum but maybe it belongs here - I do some recording in garageband and see the problem there
I love this microphone, and used to use it on a G4 PPC where it worked absolutely fine. The only noise it picked up was from the noisy computer. Now I have a quiet Imac and the Mic pics up a lot of digital noise. It isn't amplifying anything in the room. For instance if I turn the input level all the way down in Apple MIDI Setup all the way down it still comes through. Any ideas how to remedy this? Is this a power to USB port issue?
Making an aggregate device did not clear it up.
Any ideas? Thanks!

I am experiencing similar problems with my C03U. Last year I recorded on a powerbook and this year on a MacBook. Last Year it recorded perfectly. Very low background noise. This year I cannot get rid of the hiss and electrical noise. It is not background noise at all. There is none. I put it into a soundproof chamber and it is still making noise. The Samson site is useless for support. I have tried everything I know, different USB cables, Low gain, changing location, different settings in Sound Studio, and still no improvement.
Last year I used the Samson Pre but it doesn't work on 10.5 because they say 10.5 is plug and play. Yeah well!

Hi there - everything seems to be right... but... not in the store...

Hi there - I have put together a podcast feed using Feedburner -
url - http://www.theproof.co.nz/podcast/proofpodcast.xml
iTunes Store - http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?id=250895710
Subscribing via iTunes presents no problems, but the iTunes store has a few issues...
no image
all shows flagged explicit
no authors
no description...
There is one aspect I have in the xml feed that I wonder might be catching the system up - I have included an additional <media:thumbnail> tag so it provides images for this flash player over here - www.theproof.co.nz/soundproof - I would like to keep them there, and the feed is showing as 'valid'.
I do note that 'viewing' the feed by just clicking on it, doesn't give a normal listing...
Removing all the <media:thumbnail> tags fixes the 'view' so I wonder if it might also fix the store issues - but - I really would like to get those tags in...
Im a little confused - I have given the store a few days to make sure it has updated - but doesn't seem to make any difference...
Help?
PC Windows XP Pro

Hmm . . . Indeed.
I see what you mean about the flash player and having thumbnails for that. (That looks really cool by the way, and so does your website.)
But yes, I think you are right about the <media:thumbnail> tag being the one that is hanging you up in the store. And the feed doesn't show up at all for me in Firefox. Feed Validator agrees with me. But don't despair, however!
To keep your flash player happy, and yet have everything work in the store, I would use this work around: (this is just me, mind you, you can do whatever you want)
1) Make a duplicate file of your feed, and rename it something like proofpodcast_2.xml, and put it up live in the same location you have the original.
2) In your duplicate file, remove the offending (<media:thumbnail>) tags.
3) In your original feed, add a <itunes:new-feed-url>http://www.theproof.co.nz/podcast/proofpodcast_2.xml</itunes:new-feed-url> tag to the <channel> level.
This way you keep your old feed, and your flash player works, but also you make the picky parser at iTunes work by giving it a new feed that doesn't have confusing tags.
Good luck!
Peach

Two actiontec routers for WIRELESS use

Hi-
I have read the other threads that I could find re: two routers but they all seem to pertain to something other than what I am looking for.
My problem: I have the FIOS big white box (is this the ONT?) in my basement. I have the Actiontec router on the 1st floor in a room that is an extension (no basement access). I have an office in my basement and use the wireless from the 1st floor for interntet. The wireless signal from the actiontec used to be full blast in the basement but since I had the basement "redone" I now have literally no signal. My contractor thinks that maybe it is the double thickness drywall (soundproofing).
I called VZ and they offered me a new router, so that is coming in the mail. However, I am pretty certain it is not the router as my signal in the rest of the house is excellent.
Question 1) Can I hook ANYTHING to that big white box? Either my Mac that is down there via ethernet or a second Actiontec?
Question 2) I would love to have wireless down there. Can I have a second Actiontec down there that has either the same or a different wireless network?
Note: I do have a tv connection in my living room on the first floor. If it were possible to move my router to there and split the coax between the tv box and the router, I could possibly run a hardwire through the floor into the basement if that was the best way to get wireless down there again.

giantrobot wrote:
Hi-
I have read the other threads that I could find re: two routers but they all seem to pertain to something other than what I am looking for.
My problem: I have the FIOS big white box (is this the ONT?) in my basement. I have the Actiontec router on the 1st floor in a room that is an extension (no basement access). I have an office in my basement and use the wireless from the 1st floor for interntet. The wireless signal from the actiontec used to be full blast in the basement but since I had the basement "redone" I now have literally no signal. My contractor thinks that maybe it is the double thickness drywall (soundproofing).
I don't have much to add as far as solutions. (Looks like the others pretty much have that covered anyway.)
I am curious though. Why did you put "redone" in quotes and why does it need to be soundproof? What exactly are you planning on dong in your, uh, office?
If a forum member gives an answer you like, give them the Kudos they deserve. If a member gives you the answer to your question, mark the answer as Accepted Solution so others can see the solution to the problem.
"All knowledge is worth having."

Suggestions for making a sound room

Hello,
I have been an Audition user for 4 years and love this software! I mainly restore old recordings but I am looking at doing some more live recordings.
My ministry has recently been donated some money with which I what to build a sound room. it is in the middle of an appartment building. The sound room dementions are 16'L 11'W and 8'H. I can play a little with these dementions since the length wall is not yet up. Two of the walls are already existing the other two will be built. I don't need the room to be completely sound proof has the building is fairly quiet most of the time. I would just like to reduce sound into and out of the room not completely but enough to minimize unwanted noise. I have been reading a lot on sound rooms, sound proofing, reverberavtion, etc.
My main question is: I heard that a sound room should be at least 1500 cubic feet, since the walls are not yet up I was woundering if I should sacrifice the most room that I can and build a longer sound room as near to 1500 cubic feet as possible or if it really would not make that much difference.
I have attached a photo for your refference.
Any other suggestions you might have would be welcome.
Thank you!

Ishai18 wrote:
I would just like to reduce sound into and out of the room not completely but enough to minimize unwanted noise. I have been reading a lot on sound rooms, sound proofing, reverberavtion, etc.
My main question is: I heard that a sound room should be at least 1500 cubic feet, since the walls are not yet up I was woundering if I should sacrifice the most room that I can and build a longer sound room as near to 1500 cubic feet as possible or if it really would not make that much difference.
As an acoustician, I have to tell you that if the rest of the wall construction is like that partially built stud wall, you will have significant sound transmission through all of it - in both directions. You don't want to believe everything you read about how big a room should or shouldn't be - a satisfactory size depends largely on what you want to do with it, and the vast majority of rooms are compromised in this way anyway - but people still get acceptable results in them.
You do, though, appear to have fallen into the classic trap - you've started building a room primarily for acoustic purposes without consulting an acoustician at the outset - in other words, before a single stroke of work is done. Whenever anybody does that, the end result invariably costs them more, because of the amount of work that has to be torn down and redone properly. In your case I'd immediately stop right where I was with that stud wall, because the basic structure of it is just plain wrong in transmission terms.
You have two distinct problems that you need to address with this space - the first is the transmission of sound in and out (what is incorrectly referred to as 'soundproofing'), and the second is the internal treatment of the room in terms of its internal sound dispersion. These two things are only indirectly related, but without a lot more information about the second one, you can't even sensibly work on the first, because you won't have defined what is actually acceptable in terms of sound transmission in and out - it may well not be what you think.
My advice would be to engage a local acousician and get the treatment sorted properly. A lot of people claim that they haven't got the money for this, although in the long run it often saves them money - certainly in rebuild costs. The other thing you should do if you insist on organising this yourself, certainly in terms of sound transmission, is to have a good look at the UK building regs Approved Document E about this in relation to dwellings - it contains a lot of practical advice about actual construction methods to minimise it. Fortunately for you, it's a free download - here is a direct link to it. I'm not aware of another document quite like it anywhere...
Once you've got the structural parts right, the internal treatment is relatively straightforward for most of the things that people do in rooms like this. It invariably involves bass trapping in the corners, and treatment for monitor reflective paths at a bare minimum, and getting the overall reverb time to be acceptable for the applications you have in mind - whatever they are; you haven't said.

Can't tell the difference anymor

A few weeks ago i bought a record player and i was having fun listening to some 33's and 45's and then i just decided after that to get an mp3 player (got a Zen Xtra 30GB yeah!) I love this thing except when i have to charge it, but that doesn't mean much to me. Anyway i guess i just can't tell the difference between how a record sounds, a CD player sounds, or an MP3 player sounds. It sounds good, but i really can't tell anymore how the quality of sound is different... So anyway if someone could explain why all 3 of these media's all play flawlessly with hardly any difference in sound that be nice. On a side note:
CREATIVE Rules!!!

Some people can tell the difference between a 92kbps mp3 and a 64kbps mp3 through cheapass headphones on a highway. Others need amazing headphones in a soundproof room. Still others can't tell the difference between mono and stereo. Empirically speaking, there IS a difference. The question is, can YOU tell whether there is one or not?
If you can't tell the difference, it means that there IS none, as far as you're concerned. It doesn't matter if other people can hear one or not. You wouldn't go spending $200 on a bottle of wine if you can't taste the difference between that bottle and a $0 one, would you?
Message Edited by tganani on 04-2-2005 09:4 PM

How to add fullness to vocals

im having trouble adding fullness to my vocals, and need to learn how to do this in audition. what im talking about is the vocals sound really "airy" like spaced out. not upfront and thick. ive tried eqing and compression but im not really that good at it yet. ill list a link to the song so you have an idea what im talking about. im looking for a more upfront full sounding vocal. not the background aired out type. i need sum suggestiovns on what to adjust like how to compress it, or ideas on where it could be eq'ed ect....so far ive only been able to get it so that the vocal volume itself is louder..but it still sounds aired out. ive also tried stacking the tracks....like having 3 of the same vocal and panning to the left and right of 2...but it only increases the volume...and stills sounds aired out.
www.soundclick.com/stevestals
thats a link to my soundlcick page. the song im talkin about is the one marked preview
im using a MXL genesis tube mic, with a presonus audiobox interface and a sony vaio laptop.
im not to concerned about the quality bcuz the room is treated, and i also have the mic enclosed in a homemade soundproof box.
any suggest would help, please thoroughly explain tho, i also have waves diamond bundle if anyone is familiar with it and has any plugins you know that might help

Well, I should start by saying that Hiphop isn't a musical style I often deal with so perhaps I'm the wrong person to comment, but a few ideas for you.
First off, I wonder if your "homemade soundproof box" might be part of the problem. Enclosing a mic in a box (or even partially enclosing it) actually makes voices sound (believe it or not) boxy--and that's something I hear in your recording. Don't be mislead by things like the SE Reflexion filter and assume that you can surround the back of your mic any old way--things like that have to be carefully designed to leave enough "air" in the system.
Second, EQ might help you a bit. A subtle amount of boost in the 200-300 Hz range should accentuate the fundamental frequencies of your voice and make you sound a bit more "chesty" and the recording a bit warmer. The trouble is, this same boost might well make the boxiness I mentioned worse--another reason to consider not using the box. Another bit of subtle boost in the 3-4k range should help your consonants and make you sound a bit closer to the mic.
I'm not sure you need any more compression.
Anyhow, hope this helps or at least gives you some ideas.

Left speaker loud...right speaker very low or not working?

I noticed this because when I hold the iphone I always cover the left speaker and can barely hear whatever is playing be it a song or phone call. I was wondering if this is something I should go into get repaired or if everyone is experiencing this with the iphone?
I cover the left speaker and barely hear anything at all. I cover the right speaker and the left speaker is fairly loud. I'm thinking my right speaker is just not working...too bad I thought I was in the clear sigh everything else is working fine.

Simply because the right grill is a mic, and the left one a speaker, doesn't make the mic grill soundproof to what's audible from the speaker. If sound leaks out of the right grill then that might simply be audio leaking from the playback of the speaker.
But to say it's not true? It says so clearly in the Apple User's Guide, in the keynote Steve himself made to introduce it, and the support videos all over the Apple website.
Call Apple and look into the issue.

Tips for reducing aircon noise...anybody?

It's very hot where I live and record, so I have to keep the aircon on for most of the time. Even if I switch it off for a couple of minutes it gets too hot.
The obvious problem is that it's noisy when I'm doing vocals, acoustic guitar etc-even doing quiet mixing is a pain.
You have to keep in mind that it's very hard to find ready made acoustic/soundproofing gear here. I might be able to get a vocal isolator etc shipped here, but not entirely sure they will do it-do vocal isolators work?. I'm also quite bad at DIY.
Has anybody had this problem and dealt with it easily and cheaply?
Spotty

It's very hot where I live and record, so I have to keep the aircon on for most of the time. Even if I switch it off for a couple of minutes it gets too hot.
Yeah I hear ya, it's real hot over herrr too.
The obvious problem is that it's noisy when I'm doing vocals, acoustic guitar etc-even doing quiet mixing is a pain.
Oh yeah, that does tend to hapen with one of them units around...
You have to keep in mind that it's very hard to find ready made acoustic/soundproofing gear here. I might be able to get a vocal isolator etc shipped here, but not entirely sure they will do it-do vocal isolators work?. I'm also quite bad at DIY.
Where is "Here"? That is a very subjective question, my friend. Right now I AM Here... but you are in another "Here", or you could see me...groovy... DIY is the wave of the NOW, man...
Has anybody had this problem and dealt with it easily and cheaply?
Oh yes, I have dealt with the Ice Queen. she is not cheap to appease, if you want her to be around. Check the term "A/C muffler assembly". Otherwise, check the term "way to much moolah to fix-it"
Peace, man...
Spotty
noeqplease (It's very late Here,man....)

Question about Sound Isolation/Reduction and Heat

Hi all,
My AGP Sawtooth G4 tower is loud
-OWC 1.4 Ghz upgrade w/ fan
-8500 vid card w/ fan
-OEM fan
-Seagate Barracuda 160 GB (loud!) + two other HDs.
i haven't measured the decibel level, but it is significant.
I do some home-audio-recording, and I want to know if I build/use an enclosure to seal in the noise, will excessive heat be a problem.
thanks in advance
Sawtooth g4 Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1.4Ghz upgrade, 896 ram

re: the amount of noise reduction...any would be great. Didnt know it (or think about it) when i bought it, but the upgrade Seagate Barracuda HD is apparently notorious for being pretty loud. then throw in the 1.4 Ghz OWC processor upgrade (has a fan instead of a heatsink on the chip). those two + the stock fan crank some noise.
the tower is in a computer desk now (cheap officemax type command center) - in the 'computer spot' behind a door. i'm tempted to just seal the box and put up soundproofing foam inside...but heat becomes a concern. i'll look into a fan, that seems like the logical(smart?) thing to do.
Sawtooth g4 Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1.4Ghz upgrade, 896 ram

Conference Room Acoustics

I have been given a task to reduce external noise as well as cure the echo problem in our conference rooms. I know zero about this so it's hard to get started. I did buy some soundproofing in one to see if it made a difference, it it did....slightly. Paid $200 for it, so it looks like it may be an expensive endeavor. The ceilings are pretty high, the furniture isn't anything that would absorb sound. The floor is hardwood, and the windows face the heart of Boston traffic. I'm looking for idea, but inexpensive ideas.
This topic first appeared in the Spiceworks Community

Hi,
You are correct, the room acoustics are not ideal as per the following
http://tools.cisco.com/Support/BugToolKit/search/getBugDetails.do?method=fetchBugDetails&bugId=CSCud78163
Enhance echo cancellation capabilities on 7937
Symptom:
Enhancement Request to improve the echo cancellation behavior on 7937 when installed at conference rooms with high acoustics.
Conditions:
Conference rooms with large glass walls would cause high acoustics.
Workaround:
Covering the glass walls with blinds and usage of dampeners would reduce the acoustics
You can try the workaround above by placing dampeners on the glass walls and also by placing some static objects like flower pots, white boards, etc in the room.
Regarding the g722 codec, if the region setting is g711 and both the endpoints involved in the call are g722 capable then g722 is chosen by default. The only consideration here is that for a conference call the software conference bridge will only support g711 codec. As you mentioned that lan calls are negotiating g722, it will be by the above logic, whereas for external calls the codecs defined on dial-peers and region settings with gateway / trunk will determine which codec is negotiated.
HTH
Manish

Logic Pro Home based studio on 10K budget

Continuation of discusson from:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=436969&tstart=15
I will sumarize in the next message.

I think anyone would love to have this setup, but I can't resist a few comments:
I think an appropriate setup, without buying any
truly cheap stuff, would be more like $6000.
Example:
- Mac mini CoreDuo, 2G RAM, keyboard, mouse $1160
- 20" Dell Monitor $500
- external hard drive $200
- Focusrite Saffire $400
- monitors $900 (lots of good choices)
- Rode NTK $500
- cables, etc $200
- Logic Pro $900
- MIDI keyboard $500 (Fatar)
- some more software, samples $900
For the price of a Mini, 2G of RAM, and a $500 monitor, you can get a 17" iMac with 2G of RAM. (I went to the store with my heart set on a mini and walked out with the iMac for this reason.)
There's no need for an external hard drive right off the bat. They are only getting cheaper and bigger while you wait.
Few people need more than two simultaneous inputs, and fewer still need more than two outputs. For $400, the Saffire looks like a pretty awesome deal. I think I'd feel a little cramped with this setup though. I'm thinking some day you may want to have a buddy or two over with his guitar for a little jam; you'd be wishing you had some more mics. For just a little more you can get a Mackie Onyx 1220 with four mic pres and four stereo inputs, all of them running simultaneously.
I would also recommend getting a dynamic (an SM58 is as good as any) and a pair of good cheap condensers for X-Y recording, in addition to your main mic. One really expensive mic isn't as good as four or five decent ones.
(Don't forget that your mac will have a pair of 24/192 input, and the mini also has a S/PDIF input.)
If you are going to spend money for a nice keyboard controller, forget buying a controller. I would put the extra money into a cheap digital piano like a Roland RD-300 or a Yamaha P-series. Dedicated MIDI controllers have poor keyboard actions, and the RD will absolutely blow away the audio quality of the piano in EXS24 while using zero of your CPU. Plus, you have a real zero-latency piano in your studio for when you just want to play.
I think 1200 for monitors as budhalite suggested is a little over the top, but I'll admit that I am saving up for a pair of HR824's right now. I don't like the events as much.
And finally, something I discovered when I set up my first studio, almost nobody ever correctly estimates how much they need to spend on wire. In a small pro studio or a moderately large home studio, wire and patchbays can add up to more than the computer.
When you get your dream studio set up, you will find that all sorts of things you never thought of will become weakest links. Soundproofing, room size, computer fan noise, the guy nextdoor with the CB hobby. There will always be something to spend that next pension check on.

Volume Nightmares

I have been having big volume trouble with my ipod recently.
I listen to podcasts, but find that my maximum volume isn't loud enough to hear them satisfactorily - especially in loud places.
I was advised to buy noise cancelling earphones. I did, no difference.
I had been told I could unlock the maximum volume on my ipod. I tried this many times, and eventually discovered that the EU has set a maximum volume that can't be changed.
Finally, I used the Volume Adjustment feature for my tracks; which brings me to my current problem. It has caused distortion when I play the tracks at a volume that was fine before the adjustment.
My question: what happens if I move the Volume Adjustment down again? Will this further affect the audio quality? Ideally, I'd like some way to undo what I have done. But I have so many songs, it'd be a tough task to reload them again, & one that I dread.
Final question: WHY AM I PULLING MY HAIR OUT OVER VOLUME PROBLEMS?? IS IT TOO MUCH TO ASK TO BE ABLE TO LISTEN TO MY PODCASTS & AUDIOBOOKS OUTSIDE OF A SOUNDPROOF BOX?
Please let me know what my options are, before I pull out more of my hair.
Thanks.

You haven't said which model of iPod you have, but some models - the Classic for instance - has been known to change the *volume limit* (on the iPod) "by itself". This is different to the *volume adjustment* (in iTunes) that you used.
First of all, reset the *volume adjustment* in iTunes back to none, and Sync the iPod to make the changes on it as well - to stop the distortion.
Then, on the iPod itself, - depending which iPod you have, for instance;
on a Classic it's *Settings/Volume Limit*
on a Touch it's *Settings/Music/Volume Limit/on-off* ...
other models may be a little different but you should find this.
So, once you've found the *volume limit* check to see how it's set. You'll see a "slider bar" and underneath it is a small arrow. The arrow is the limiter, so if it's not at the right hand end, it's less than maximum. The slider probably will not be at maximum, that indicates the "playing now" volume.
Use the slider bar to set the volume and (on a Classic) press the centre button to fix it in place. The slider bar will return to a lower setting, don't worry about it.
If the arrow was not at the maximum setting, that will be why you had low volume. If so, has this fixed your problem?
(I've realised that the Classic will move the arrow to a lower position if you press-and-hold the menu button to return to home. The solution is to press-and-release it instead.)
You made a point about the EU maximum volume - don't get side-tracked by this, it's a very emotive issue with some people, but it's probably not what your problem is! However, to explain what it is: if you purchased your iPod inside the European Union, then it does have a lower "absolute maximum" volume than iPods sold elsewhere in the world, but these models still have a *volume limiter* on them which can cause the problem you are experiencing. You cannot over-ride the "EU limit", but you can sort out a low setting of the *volume limiter.*
Phil

Are Apple Stores in the US filled with noise?

I have a MacBook that has serious problems with its fan. The thing is always spinning and makes a whiney, grindy noise.
I've taken this machine in to the Apple Store in Tokyo two times to demonstrate the problem. But the "Geniuses" can never heard the fan noise.
Why not? Because the store has LOUD MUSIC constantly blazing from speakers mounted in every corner of the store. This is a tactic that I guess Apple believes makes the shopping experience exciting, but to me its annoying and makes it nearly impossible to get issues resolved with the "Geniuses." Half the time, you have to nearly shout for them to hear what you're saying. It's like trying to conduct business in a rock 'n' roll nightclub.
Anyway, I'll be traveling to the States soon, and I'm wondering if they blare music in the Apple Stores in the States, too. If not, Or, is this just a Tokyo thing?
Thanks,
GeeKay

Yes it is in the U.S. too. I would ask them if they have a quiet room in the back. If not, suggest to their manager that they get a soundproof room because some things must be listened to in a quiet room to detect such as fans, scratching hard drive and optical disc platters, stuck eject mechanisms, and the famous POST startup test (on Intel Macs, 1999 to 2005 Macs, pre 1999 Macs) and power supplies which have shorts usually only emit sounds that can be heard in a quiet room. Sometimes they are too noisy to detect the startup chime, which can be a real problem when resetting the PRAM, as you don't want the PRAM reset to go through too many startup chimes.
Edit: another observation is that it is so noisy, if you even walk into a quiet room after being in the store, it takes a few minutes before your ears adjust and are able to listen to ambient noises again.

Soundproofing a G5?

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