SPDIF and Analog Speakers

I must not be understanding SPDIF properly. I thought that was a digital signal. Many people using Audigy cards have been making the SPDIF connection thier default to eliminate buzzing in Windows 7. When I do this, I get no sound, in Vista or Windows 7, but I have analog speakers on an Audigy 4, so this is what I expected. Am I missing something? How are these people getting sound when they select SPDIF out? They have analog speakers too.

Meocene wrote:
It may because you're using Win 7 x64.
The Audigy's spdif doesn't work in x64 OS's at the moment...
Doesn't matter whether it works or not, he said he has analogue speakers and gets no sound when he sets it to SPDIF. Wonder why that is
momalle you want to use SPDIF you need to use digtial speakers (which is an oxymoron as the only thing digital about them is the connection) that use a digital connection via SPDIF.

Similar Messages

SPDIF and multi speakers

Does anyone know if the built in SPDIF sound/bracket can support 4 speaker setups?

Thanks for your comments guys. I have it connected to the SPDIF in on my speakers. I studied the digital format, and I know it can support multiple channels. In fact, with the SB Live! I am currently using, when set to 4 speakers, SPDIF sounds great. But when I hook up to the SPDIF of the builtin sound, I only get two speakers working. My question was whether I had set it up wrong, or if the SPDIF of the mobo sound was only capable of two channel support.
And I'm not sure what that filter is M, that link was dead.

Analog speakers and my Mac Pro

Mac Pro and analog speakers that have those copper wire cables.
I've got an analog stereo receiver with analog speakers. I wanted to plug my speakers 'somehow' into my Mac Pro. Can anybody recommend some solutions ?
thanks.

Check some reviews on the hi-fi link. I know very little about computers, but sound I'm okay. If the other solutions aren't working, this is actually pretty good. I've got an $8000 system with B&W speakers, and it's not easy to tell the difference between my computer with hi-fi link and the CD player. You don't need to store your music in lossless format either: AAC is fine.
The speakers are the critical component in your sound. If you already have good speakers, you'll notice a big drop-off going to computer speakers unless you spend a lot of money. If your cheap desktop speakers are the best you have, then computer speakers might be able to compete.

Optical digital and analog audio out

I just purchased a Pavilion 500-214 with IDT High Def Audio CODEC / DTS Sound+
Is it possible to get both opitcal digital audio out and analog (speakers/headphones) out at same time? Stereo amp needs access to both for multizone/source function. I can manually pick one or the other before playback - it is clunky in that when switching audio out devices the active will turn off but one switching to does not always turn on. But i really need both simultaneously active for amp to work properly. I have also found rear speaker jack to be more stubborn during switching than front headphone jack.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi zombi1,
Welcome to the HP Forums!
I have done some research on whether or not one can utilize both digital or analogue audio out at the same time, and unfortunately this is not possible.
Thank you for posting, and Happy Earth Day!
MechPilot
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
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SPDIF DTS + Analog stereo

Hello folks!
I need my pc to output multichannel DTS sound on the SPDIF, while at the same time output analog stereo from the same?source?when i watch movies or listen to music.
Is this possible?
Is any creative-soundcards able to do this?
Maybe dual soundcards?
Does anyone have any suggestions?

I can't be sure about other CLs soundcards, but my Audidy 2 outputs over spdif and analog at the same time, even while using the dts encoder. Both output 5. though because you can't set individual speaker setups for analog and digital.
Of course you could always go about it in reverse.
Decode your DD/dts using osftware decoders and output that over analog, and without either the dts or dolby decoders running your spdif will always output a stereo signal.

Digital Connections, SPDIF and Dolby Digital Info

I have noticed that many people have problems using their digital connections, so I put together this info to try and explain the difference between digital and analogue, and how to use them.
Digital ConnectionsDigital connections come in two standard forms, optical and coax. They both give you exactly the same result, the only difference is the medium (material) through which the signal travels. The thing to remember about digital is that for ordinary, uncompressed sound, it will only carry a stereo signal. So, if you like to use CMSS with your music, or you try the speaker test function, optical/coax is useless as you only hear the front left/right speakers.
Movies wth Dolby Digital (AC3) & DTSMovies on DVD often use encoded audio in the form of Dolby Digital (AC3) or DTS. This means that all 6 channels are compressed into a single stream of digital data. A decoder is required to extract the channels and send the sound to the correct speakers. There are three ways to do this.
) Pass the AC3/DTS signal to a external decoder. This is where your optical/coax connection is used. To go down this route, you must first have a set of speakers or a decoder that supports Dolby Digital. In your DVD software, select 'SPDIF' as the audio output method and 'SPDIF Pass-through' in your soundcard options. What this does is tells both the software and soundcard to leave the audio from the DVD in compressed form and send it straight through the digital outputs. Your digital speakers/receiver will do all the decoding to give you full surround sound. Please note that this is the only way to get 6 channels through an optical/coax cable.
2) Decode the AC3/DTS with your Sound Blaster.You should choose this option if you don't have an external decoder. In the DVD software, select 'SPDIF' as the audio output method and make sure that 'SPDIF Pass-through' in the souncard options is off. The DVD software will now pass the compressed audio to your soundcard, which will then decode the data. The soundcard will output the 6 channels using the analogue connections (or digital DIN, more on this later). If you try to use a digital optical/coax connection to your speakers, you will only hear faint sounds from the front left/right speakers.
3) Decode the AC3/DTS with software.If you have a soundcard that doesn't support Dolby Digital (like the SB Li've! 24-bit) and you don't have digital speakers, the only way for you to get surround sound in movies is to use software to decode the AC3/DTS. The free versions of DVD software you get with hardware often don't support this feature, you will most likely need a full version. First select 'Dolby Digital' or 'DTS' decoding in the DVD software audio options (you must select the right sound format for the movie you are watching). Then make sure that 'SPDIF Pass-through' in the soundcard options is off. As with method (2) you must connect your speakers with the 3 analogue cables, not optical/coax.
PC GamesPC games usually use technologies like as EAX to create surround sound, not Dolby Digital. So even if your speaker system has a Dolby Digital decoder, it will be of no use when playing games. The EAX processing is done on the soundcard, and the 6-channel sound is output via the analogue (or digital DIN if available). So you still need analogue connections to your digital speakers for games, if you just use an optical/coax cable you will only get the front left/right sound.(N.B. X-Box games do support Dolby Digital, so if you connect your X-Box to your Dolby Digital receiver/speakers with the optical cable, you can get full surround sound.)
Creative's 4-pole mini-jack & Digital DINYou can only get the full use out of this connection when used between Creative Sound Blasters and compatible Creative speaker systems. It is the digital equivalent of the analogue connections, but instead of using 3 stereo sockets, you use just one digital socket. There are 4 conducting connections in the socket (unlike coax which has two) so there are enough connections to carry 3 different digital stereo signals (front R/L, rear R/L and Sub/Centre). You will probably require a 4-pole mini-jack > DIN converter to connect your Creative speakers to this socket. Using this connection will allow you to get surround from games (unlike SPDIF). However the digital DIN input on some Creative speakers can't receive AC3/DTS data, so you may still require an optical/coax connection.
N.B. This digital socket on the Sound Blaster cards doubles as the digital coax output. If you don't have digital DIN, you can use a mono or stereo mini-jack > RCA converter to connect to the coax input on your speakers, as the front R/L or AC3/DTS signals are sent through the tip of the plug.
More InfoCreative's Speaker Conectivity Guide: http://support.creative.com/kb/ShowA....aspx?sid=5035
Dolby Surround info: http://www.dolby.com
I hope that clarifies the issue .
Message Edited by KokChoy-CL on 07-04-2008 :0 AM

Digital Connections, SPDIF and Dolby Digital (german revision)
Options
03-08-2007 01:52 AM
Digital Connections, SPDIF and Dolby Digital Info
Übersetzung + Erweiterungen + Revision 03-08-07
Der Digitale Anschluß
Ich habe beobachtet, daß viele Leute Fragen zu den Sound-Anschlüssen haben, daher trage ich hier einige Infos zusammen und erkläre die Unterschiede in der Verwendung der digitalen und analogen Anschlüsse.
Digitale Anschlüsse – S-PDIF & Toslink
Am PC gibt es zwei häufig verwendete digitale Anschlußformate optisch (Toslink) und koaxial (S-PDIF).
Im Prinzip erzielen beide Anschlüsse genau das gleiche Audio-Ergebnis.
Der primäre Unterschied ist das Medium ( das Material ) durch das das Signal übertragen wird. ( Glasfaser oder Kupfer )
!! Update !!
Ein wichtiger Aspekt in der Auswahl von digital-optischen Anschlüssen erklärt sich durch das Vermeiden einer sogenannten „Brummschleife“, d.h. eine elektrisch leitende Verbindung zweier Geräte muß vermieden werden.
( mit Lichtwellenleiter - LWL- z.B. mit dem Anschluß-System Toslink )
In der Elektrotechnik ( Niedervolttechnik ) wird oft der „Negative“ Pol der Spannungsversorgung über das elektrisch leitende Gehäuse ( die sogenannte Masse )geführt. Das spart einerseits einen weiteren Kabelweg ( also Kupfer ) ein und ergibt eine mehr oder weniger wirksame (Ab-) Schirmung. Diese Schirmung soll die elektronische Schaltung vor elektromagnetischen, hochfrequenten und niederfrequenten Störeinflüssen je nach Ausführung der Schirmung schützen.
Üblicherweise besitzt jedes elektronische Gerät eine eigene Spannungsversorgung. Netzteile in elektronischen Geräten unterscheiden sich in der Art der Spannungsumformung, in der Höhe der Spannung, in der zur Verfügung gestellten Leistung, durch verschiedene Bauarten und unterschiedliche Bauteil-Tolleranzen entstehen somit verschiedenste Masse-Potentiale.
Werden solche Geräte durch elektrisch leitende Kabel verbunden, kommt es zu einem Ausgleich der verschiedenen Masse-Potentiale. Ein negatives Ergebnis der Verbindung von TV-Geräten oder PC-Komponenten mit Audio-Komponenten ist oft eine hörbare Beeinträchtigung von Audio-Signalen - ein tieffrequentes Brummen.( auch Brummschleife oder Masseschleife genannt )
Hierfür verantwortlich zu machen ist eine elektrisch leitende Verbindung. In der HiFi-Technik ist das in der Regel ein Koaxialkabel und dessen Schirmung.
Vermeidung u. Reduzierung dieser Störgeräusche Ansätze
!! Der einfache Weg !!
Einsatz einer optischen Signal- / Datenübertragung mit Lichtwellenleiter
- Glasfaser als Trägermaterial
( Einsatz einer Datenübertragung ohne elektrisch leitende Verbindungen )
aufwendige Wege
Einsatz einer Galvanischen Trennung - mit einem Ground-Isolator
(Massetrennung )
+ die elektrische Verbindung der Schirmung wird umgangen
- aber Leistungs- & und Klangverlust(geringere Dynamik)
- Verwendung von ( hochwertigen ) symmetrischen Verbindungen
( „PLUS“ „MINUS“ „Masse“)
+ Trennung der Schirmung an einer „Seite“ des Kabels möglich
[bei Koaxialkabel unsinnig weil eine Ader zerstört wird und
anschließend dieses Kabel wertlos ist ]
- sehr große Anschlüsse
- Profibereich
- Einsatz einer zentralen Spannungsversorgung für alle miteinander
verbundenen Geräte
Nachtrag
Bitte nicht verwechseln mit Netzbrummen - die Einstreuung der Netzfrequenz 50 Hz ( EU ) oder 60 Hz ( US ) in den Audio-Signalweg das ist üblicherweise auf eine nicht ausreichende Entstörung oder(Ab-)Schirmung zurückzuführen ist.
- End - !! Update !!
Einige Vorbetrachtungen
Die traditionelle Ton-Übertragung ist ein unkomprimiertes Signal, es wird in Stereo übertragen.
Wenn du CMSS ( Creative Multi Speaker Surround simulierten Surround Sound ) aus deiner Stereo-Musik erzeugen willst oder der Sprach-Test abgerufen wird ( nur über den Center ) ist der digitale Anschluß ( optisch & koaxial ) unbrauchbar, denn es würden nur die Lautsprecher Front-Rechts und Front-Links angesprochen !! Es wird ein anderer Anschluß benötigt, der die Kanäle einzeln ansteuert.
Für das Format 5.1 ist das die Verbindung über die drei 3,5 mm Klinken-Stecker ( 3 mal 2 Kanäle ) mit der folgenden
Kanalzuweisung 5.1
Front R / Front L + Rear R + Rear L + Subwoofer / Center
Mehrkanalton in Filmen - DolbyDigital (AC3 / DD) oder DTS
Filme auf DVD verwenden häufig ein kodiertes Mehrkanal-Audiosignal, in der Form DolbyDigital ( AC3 / DD ) oder DTS. Bei dem gebräuchlichsten Format 5.1 werden 6 Signale ( 3 mal 2 Kanäle ) in einem digitalen Datenstrom zusammengefaßt und komprimiert = das Kodieren.
Nach der Übertragung des Signals muß aus diesem Datenstrom ein Decoder die entsprechenden Töne trennen und jedem Kanal zuordnen = das Dekodieren.
Drei Varianten der Decodierung sind möglich.
(1) - AC3 / DTS Signal wird zu einem externen Decoder geführt
Genau hier wird der optische / koaxiale Anschluß genutzt. Um diese Variante nutzen zu können, mußt du ein digitales Lautsprecher-Set oder einen Digital-Decoder ( z.B: Digital-Receiver ) besitzen, der die Dekodierung des gewünschten Formats ( DD, AC3, DTS) übernimmt. Für jedes Digital-Format benötigt man einen entsprechenden Decoder – das Handbuch weiß hier oft mehr – welches Format von welchem Gerät dekodiert werden kann !!
Wähle in deiner DVD-Software den zur digitalen Datenübertragung gewünschten Anschluß "S-PDIF"( Koaxial ) oder "Optisch" als Audio-Ausgang.
In den Soundkarten-Einstellungen muß die Option "S-PDIF-Durchschleifen" ( "SPDIF Pass-through" ) eingestellt werden.
Dadurch wird das Audio-Signal von der DVD in digitaler ( komprimierter ) Form direkt an die Digital-Ausgänge der Soundkarte weitergeleitet. Anschließend kann ein angeschlossener externer Decoder z.B. im digitalen Lautsprecher-System oder im Digital-Receiver die Decodierung übernehmen und es entsteht ein „Räumliches Klangbild“.
Bitte merken:
Daß ist der einzige Weg 5.1 Signale ( digital ) über ein koaxiales bzw. optisches Kabel zu übertragen.
(2) - AC3 / DTS mit der Soundkarte decodieren
Diese Variante ist zu verwenden, wenn du keinen externen Decoder / Receiver verwenden willst.
In der DVD-Software wird "S-PDIF" als Audio-Ausgang gewählt und es muß zwingend in den Optionen der Soundkarte "S-PDIF-Durchschleifen" ( "SPDIF Pass-through" ) deaktiviert werden.
Die DVD-Software wird jetzt das ( digitale ) komprimierte Audio-Signal an deine Soundkarte senden und dann werden dort die digitalen Daten decodiert. Die Soundkarte gibt dann die 6 Audio-Kanäle ( bei 5.1 ) über ihre drei analogen Anschlüsse aus ( 3 mal 3,5 mm Klinke ) mit folgender
Kanalzuweisung 5.1
Front R / Front L + Rear R + Rear L + Subwoofer / Center
Es wird in diesem Beispiel also ein 5.1-Lautsprecher-System benötigt, mit der analogen Anschluß-Option von drei Klinken-Steckern.
( also 3 x 2 Kanäle = 3 mal 3,5 mm Klinke )
- die Einspeisung eines digitalen Signals über DigitalDIN, ist mit dem optionalen digitalen E/A-Modulbei möglich ***
- wird hier ein optisches / koaxiales Kabel verwendest, hörst du nur schwache Töne der Front-Lautsprecher R + L
*** Bei Karten der SB073X-Serie verfügt diese Buchse nicht über die Digital-In-Funktion !! zur Unterstützung des digitalen E/A-Moduls )
[ mehr unten ]
(3) - AC3 / DTS mit einer Software decodieren
Wenn deine Soundkarte kein DolbyDigital unterstützt
( wie die SB Live! 24-bit ) und auch kein digitales Lautsprecher-System vorhanden ist, kannst du Raumklang
(Surrsound-Sound ) aus DV-Filmen auch über eine AC3 / DTS fähige Software erzeugen.
Gratis-DVD-Software-Versionen unterstützen diese Funktion häufig nicht, du benötigst dann eine Software-Voll-Version.
Wähle die gewünschte digitale Audio-Tonspur „DolbyDigital“ oder „DTS“, im Audio-Menü einer DVD.
Dann stelle sicher, das in den Soundkarten-Optionen "S-PDIF-Durchschleifen"
( "SPDIF Pass-through" ) ausgeschaltet ist.
Wie unter (2) mußt du deine Lautsprecher mit den drei analogen Kabeln anschließen und nicht optisch oder koaxial !! ( 3 mal 3,5 Klinke )
Kanalzuweisung 5.1
Front R / Front L + Rear R + Rear L + Subwoofer / Center
Generell sind bei zuvor genannten Varianten (1) – (3) auch andere mehrkanalige
Wiedergabeformate möglich.
In Abhängigkeit von der Ausstattung der Quelle also von der DVD. der CD. der TV-Karte, dem Game usw. sind andere Formate z.B. 2.0 / 2.1 / 4.0 / 4.1 / 5.1 / 7.1-Kanal Wiedergabe möglich.
PC Spiele
PC Spiele nutzen normalerweise Technologien wie EAX, die ihren eigenen Surround-Sound, ohne Verwendung von DolbyDigital erzeugen. Selbst wenn dein Lautsprecher-System einen DolbyDigital-Decoder besitzt, ist dieser für Games unbrauchbar. Denn die EAX Verarbeitung findet direkt auf der Soundkarte statt und die Ausgabe der 6 Kanäle ( 5.1 ) erfolgt über die analogen Ausgänge
( 3 mal 3,5 mm Klinke ) ( oder über DigitalDIN, wenn vorhanden *** ).
*** Bei Karten der SB073X-Serie verfügt diese Buchse nicht über die Digital-In-Funktion !! zur Unterstützung des digitalen E/A-Moduls ) [ mehr unten ]
Kanalzuweisung 5.1
Front R / Front L + Rear R + Rear L + Subwoofer / Center
Für Mehrkanalwiedergabe in Spielen benötigst du also Lautsprecher-Systeme mit analogen Anschlüssen oder einen Digital-Receiver mit analogem ( 5.1 ) Eingang.
Wenn du ein optisches / koaxiales Kabel verwendest, dann kannst du nur die vorderen Kanäle ( links / rechts ) hören.
!!! Notiz !!!
X-Box Spiele unterstützen DolbyDigital, wenn du deine X-Box mit einem DolbyDigital-Receiver oder einem digitalen Lautsprecher-System über optische Kabel verbindest, kannst du den vollen Surround Sound nutzen.
Die Sound Blaster Karten der SB073X-Serie bieten neben dem digitalen ( koaxial / extern ) Anschluß über den Anschluss Flexi-Jack auch noch einen weiteren Anschluß, direkt auf der Karte ( koaxial / intern )
Flexi-Jack - DigitalDIN
Wenn du kein digitales E/A-Modul ( Digital I/O-Modul ) benutzen kannst, ist es möglich mit einem Klinke-Chinch Adapter ( RCA-Adapter ), ein digitales Lautsprecher-System oder einen Digital-Receiver digital ( koaxial ) über den Flexi-Jack-Ausgang der Soundkarte zu verbinden. Alle MiniDin bzw. 3,5 mm Klinken-Stecker können in der Mono- oder auch in der Stereo-Ausführung verwendet werden, denn der mittlere / vordere Pin des 3,5 mm Klinken-Steckers überträgt das AC3 / DTS Signal. Dazu benötigt man eine der folgenden Verbindungen
3,5 mm Klinke ( Mini DIN ) auf Chinch - Adapter ( RCA-Adapter )
für den S-PDIF-Anschluß( koaxial ) an Lautsprecher-Systeme mit digitalem Eingang bzw. Digital-Receiver kann man folgende Varianten verwenden
- Klinke-Mono - Chinch-Stecker ( Stecker –Stecker ) ( Favorit !! )
- Klinke-Mono auf Chinch-Mono ( Stecker - Kupplung ) + Chinch-Verbindungkabel
( Stecker - Stecker )
- Klinke-Stereo auf Chinch-Mono ( Stecker - Kupplung ) + Chinch-Verbindungkabel
( Stecker - Stecker )
Das digitale E/A-Modul ( Digital I/O – Modul )
Die Verwendung von optionalem Zubehör Digitales E/A-Modul ( Digital I/O-Modul ) bietet die Möglichkeit der direkten Verwendung eines S-PDIF Verbindungskabels und stellt zusätzlich zum koaxialen Anschluß einen optischen Anschluß ( Toslink ) bereit. Die optische Verbindung kann wie oben beschrieben zur Vermeidung einer Brummschleife hilfreich sein.
Des weiteren wird ( abhängig von der Ausstattung der Soundkarte *** ) ein digitaler Eingang über das E/A-Modul bereitgestellt, der Eingang ist ebenso wie der Ausgang in optischer ( Toslink ) und koaxialer ( S-PDIF ) Bauform ausgeführt.
Achtung !!
( *** Bei Karten der SB073X-Serie verfügt diese Buchse nicht über die Digital-In-Funktion !! zur Unterstützung des digitalen E/A-Moduls )
interner S-PDIF E/A-Anschluss ( für Geräte der SB073X-Serie )
zum Anschluß einer Decoderkarte oder externer Decoder bzw. Lautsprechersysteme mit digitalem Eingang ist ein entsprechender Adapter erforderlich
Bei einigen Modellen ist eine Dekoderkarte im Lieferumfang enthalten bzw. in einigen Regionen als Zubehör erhältlich
Front Panel-Sockel (für Geräte der SB073X-Serie)
2 x 5-poliger Front Panel-Sockel nur für Verbindungen mit einem Intel HD Front Panel Audio-Standardsockel (nur Geräte der SB073X-Serie) Intel Front Panel Audio-Kabels (separat erhältlich)
Anschlusskompatibilität
Ausschließlich Intel HD Front Panel Audio-Standard
Nicht kompatibel mit AC97 oder Intel-kompatiblem HD Front Panel Audio
Einschränkungen
Wenn neben den hinteren Mikrofonen auch Frontmikrofone angeschlossen sind, werden die hinteren Mikrofone automatisch deaktiviert.
Sound Blaster X-Fi E/A-Konsole
Auf der Rückseite Ihrer X-Fi-E/A-Konsole* befindet sich eine sogenannte DIN-Buchse. Um die Funktionen für eine integrierte Lautsprechersteuerung zu nutzen, können Sie an diese Buchse ausgewählte analoge Creative-Lautsprechersysteme anschließen, die über eine Kabelfernbedienung oder eine Audiokonsole verfügen.
So können Sie beispielsweise über den Master-Lautstärkeregler Ihrer X-Fi-E/A-Konsole die Lautstärke der Lautsprecher regeln oder die Lautsprecher stummschalten.
-eof-

Mac mini - built-in speakers and external speakers?

Hello
Is it possible to use built-in speaker and external speakers the same time?
I have connected Mini to my sound system, but sometimes I listen to the radio and would like to use the built-in speaker.
How can I do such thing without unplugging external speakers?
Regards
Przemek

You can't.
There are 5.1 speaker systems that work with Macs that have built-in SPDIF ports:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=506627&tstart=0
(the M-Audio link on this tip is to a no longer available product)
And there is 3 channel based speaker adapter here:
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/firewave/
And while hard to find, you may be able to also get this Sonica Theatre USB Card somewhere:
http://www.m-audio.com/index.php?do=products.main&ID=eee876ef2e6cbb4ac377f83c406 e8885&mode=preview

Spdif and toslink pr

I have the x-fi fatalty sound card with shiny new spdif in/out and optical in/out but i cant seem to get any of these to work. I have an old DAT-recorder (yeah yeah, i?m an oldtimer) with both spdif and optical but i cant get any signal to the computer. The analog inputs work fine, as does the mic input and phones output. I?ve tried every setting in audio console and and audio in the control panel without success. What am i missing here? The support for the computer cant help me.

Did you
- set everything in creative mixer (creation mode; input source)?
- set the samplerate (/bit-depth) correctly (wasn't the DAT (6-bit/) 48 kHz?)?
- tried bit-matched input/output mode(s) (creation mode)?
jutapa

3.5mm break out to optical and analog

I got a new iMac with the mini jack combo output (so you can plug in headphones / speakers or use it as an optical output).
I'd like to hook up a set of optical speakers and a set of analog speakers. I was wondering since the headphone jack on the back of the iMac has BOTH but combined into one, is there a break out box or adapter that will allow you to use both digital and analog?
I've searched around online for a while but cannot find anything, does anyone know of this type of adapter?
Thanks
-Steve

Hi Steve,
the audio-port on the iMac (and the other Macs as well) has a small micro-switch in it which is used to determine whether an analog or a digital connecter is inserted.
So in essence you cannot get both analog and digital out of the combined port.
Sorry
Stefan

How to Enable Headphone/Mic and External Speakers at On

Hey!?Just bought the Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatalty Professional card to put in a new system I'm building. I wanted to use this instead of the one that had the 5.25" dri've bay connection because my PC's front panel closes over those bays and would render them useless during most of its operation. I was really disappointed that there wasn't an optical or co-ax digital out from the rear. I went to look at some adapters; unfortunately for me, those would all have to be connected to the Microphone input. That's unacceptable, since I'm an avid gamer and our voip is pretty much a necessity at all times. I like the sound, but the fact that I can't easily switch from speaker output to headphone/microphone is really causing me problems. I wish there was an adapter for that AD link in the back, would make things much easier. I know there's an accessory that may help; the I/O console. Just a bit spendy ($70 or so)?for basically adding the ability to the card I purchased to run my speakers and headset conveniently. Currently I connect my headset to the analog ports of the onboard sound, and my speakers and receiver through the optical port. This lets me instantly decrease the speaker volume when I get wife-aggro, while at the same time allowing me to communicate via the headset mic either with the speakers over my head or around my neck. Any suggestions for a similar arrangement with the Fatalty X-Fi card?Thanks!

Is there a way possibly to connect a tower's front panel audio to the card? That would solve quite a bit, with the audio and mic inputs there. Sorry if this is a newby question, would like to prevent repackaging the card and returning it...

Sound Blaster Z SPDIF and optical cable + DTS and DDL settings

i bought a new z-906 to have as a speaker system for my computer. what i did was:
bought sound blaster z and a optical cable. i installed the software for the sound blaster z and started configuring it.
i plugged one end of the optical cable in the SBZ and the other end in the z-906. then i started configuring using windows sound panel and SBZ i first used the spdif-out on the panel but eventually that sounded a bit off to what 5.1 should sound.
then after a good while trying to figure out why it gave me the message "usupported format" when i was trying to use DDL or DTS. i searched on google then i read something someone else couldnt figure out and used that.
what i did to get DDL and DTS to work was: (might require a fresh install of SBZ and all services in msconfig to work)
i opened windows sound panel, clicked on spdif-out and pressed properties. then i clicked on formats or supported formats tab and enabled everything with a checkbox. then clicked OK or Apply.
back on the sound panel again. here you have 2 configs that comes with the sound blaster z. i clicked on speakers then on "use as standard. then on configure and selected 5.1 surround, and on the next, center, subwoofer and rear. and unless you got a 7.1 system (or you could configure this in SBZ panel) i dont think you would need left and right front and surround-speakers since its already enabled in the first window as enhancing then i rebooted and reinstalled the SBZ and made sure all the services in msconfig tab was set to start and run on boot. and voila i had sound. (just to clarify. i didnt have sound for awhile since the DDL and DTS settings made my speakers to snowy sound until i figured out why)

one other thing you need to set in your creative control pannel speakers mode not headset mode.
and also under the cinematic tab you have to enable : Encoder : dolby digital live 5.1
then you will get sound.
the issues will crop up though if you fix em let me know, if you want the issues to happen right away select DTS as encoder we/or i know this mode will not work with these headsets but thats the same issues that popup even under dolby digital live settings.

Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Pro - spdif and optical at the same t

Hi,
I own a Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Pro, DR release .84.40. I have an optical source and an coax spdif source that I would like to connect to the external module. I have found that as soon as I connect a spdif source the optical is cut off. I can't get it back on until I reboot. Is this as designed? Is the setup capable of taking two spdif and optical input at the same time?Thanks in advance for any help!

I'm no expert but I think he should be fine. Might want to make sure that both the computer and speaker setup are connected to a surge protector (I would recommend one with at least 3000 joule protection). With a good surge protector I don't think he will have any problems...

Can I use my monitor and external speakers with apple tv

I have an extra computer monitor (DVI input) and external speakers (3.5mm male audio jack.) Is there some combination of adapters that I can use to hook up an apple tv to them in order to stream from netflix, and my itunes library?

no but you can get tons of solutions where you connect something to your tv's minijack headset connector and then it wireless transfer the audio signal to a headset
there are both bluetooth solutions belkin have one I use and there are also solutions where the headset is included and they use their own custom protocol
but mind you there is no way to keep such setups in sync in terms of video and audio so if the system is poor in quality or pre-process the audio signal too much it cause audio and visuals to get out of sync

I have windows 7 and my speakers worked then after update my speakers do not work and everything checked out and says they are working and that soundcard is working but no sound now.

I have windows 7 and my speakers worked then after update my speakers do not work and everything checked out and says they are working and that soundcard is working but no sound now.
I have tried everything and nothing works.

sound problems:
#Restore speaker icon to System Task bar, right-click on clock or tray > Properties > Volume: On
#Click on the Sound icon in System tray then on Mixer, make sure Firefox is not muted [http://dmcritchie.mvps.org/icons/fx_sound.png picture]
<p>Additional references
* [https://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/No%20sound%20in%20Firefox No sound in Firefox | Troubleshooting | Firefox Help]
* [http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Video%20or%20audio%20does%20not%20play Video or audio does not play | Troubleshooting | Firefox Help]
* [http://kb.mozillazine.org/Video_or_audio_does_not_play Video or audio does not play - MozillaZine Knowledge Base]

I have lost all audio on both my internal and external speakers.

I have lost audio on both my internal and external speakers. I have checked the System Preferences when my external speakers are plugged in it is acknowledged. When using internal speakers they are also acknowledged. Sound volume on Preferences is on and fully high. The sound buttons on the keyboard do not work and the sound level is now locked in at full sound and cannot be adjusted using the keys. The System Preferences shows that Mute is now checked and I cannot uncheck it. What should I do to get my sound back both internally and externally?

Repair permissions & restart.
Check your settings in the Audio Midi app which is located in the Utilities folder.
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1574 Troubleshooting issues with no audio from built-in speakers on Macs
Trick/Tip: Open up GarageBand if installed then, open a program (optional).
Quit out of the GarageBand app.
=====================
Repairing the mysteriously muted Mac
The background on the issue is that there’s a small sensor switch inside the headphone port. When you insert a headphone jack, the sensor understands what's what and changes the sound output setting to Headphones. If you insert a jack for digital audio output, the device changes to Digital Out. When you remove the jack completely, it should read Internal Speakers.
The spirits tell me that there’s a very good chance that you recently had something jacked into this port—a set of headphones or a cable leading to powered speakers, for example. When you removed the jack, something in the port prevented the sensor from tripping correctly. That’s why you see Digital Out instead of internal Speakers.
The solution is to force the sensor to do its job. The safest way to do that is to simply run a jack in and out of the port a few times. Much of the time, this takes care of the problem by correctly tripping the sensor. If that doesn’t work, there may be gunk in the port. Before turning to more invasive techniques, get a can of compressed air, attach the small tube that fits the nozzle, and blast a few shots of air into the port. With any luck, that should dislodge the gunk and the port will operate as it should.
If that doesn’t work, find a foam-tipped swab that fits (electronics shops generally carry them), dip it in rubbing alcohol, and gently insert it into the headphone port in an attempt to wipe away any stubborn gunk. I recommend foam rather than cotton swabs because the cotton variety might leave threads behind. (This same technique works well with misbehaving headphone ports on devices such as iOS devices.)
It's possible that gunk has nothing to do with it. Rather, it may be that the switch just needs a subtle nudge. If a jack or swab doesn't work, I've heard of people successfully resetting it with a deft poke of a toothpick.
http://www.macworld.com/article/2031146/repairing-the-mysteriously-muted-mac.htm l

SPDIF and Analog Speakers

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