Specific Calibration Question

I have an IMAC 24 and the spyder3pro - My ambient light I am told is moderately low. When ever I calibrate with the Spyder and the check call it says the target is not met. In addition I need to use special software (Shades) to reduce the back light lower than Mac controls allow and Spyder keeps suggesting I calibrate to 5800 not 6500.
To illustrate the drift:
Desired 2.2 Gamma Current 1.93 Previous 1.94
White point Target .313/329 Current.318/.335 Previous .318/,335
Does the drift in Gamma make a big difference?
Does the drift in white point (using native makes no difference) make a difference?
Is this the reason why my prints are much darker than they should be?
Any suggestions?
Many thanks for specific suggestions!

I would rather see you use an image that might include an IT8 but not solely made up of an IT8 for that type of evaluation. The IT8 was originally designed as a scanning input profiling aid, and is harder to evaluate visually than an image like the PhotoDisc image. I like to use the PhotoDisc test image with a few of my own known images added, including RGB black and white full tone images and gray step wedges with particular attention given to both the top and bottom ten steps - from zero to ten and from 245 to 255.
An image like that is also a great aid in checking your overall calibration of the monitor, especially the ability of the screen to be neutral over the full tonal range and whether or not you can see the most subtle differences in pixel values on screen. There are only a couple of monitors than can show every step from 0-255 and this will show you exactly what yours is capable of. I know that both my Sony Artisan and Barco Reference Calibrator can to that. It's great to know if you might have detail in your file that you screen can't show you.
What you'll also see is that even on the best printers with custom profiles, everything below about 10,10, 10 RGB will go to black but you will still be able to see the difference in print between 253 and 255.
If you click on my name you'll find out how to contact me. I can send you the file I use with a calibrated print made with a Gretag generated custom profile, but I can't get it out until Monday.

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Message was edited by: Fresh J

Fresh J:
A1. You're fine calibrating the battery now. You might have gotten more accurate readings during the first month if you'd done it sooner, but no harm has been done.
A2. Your machine has NOT shut down; it has done exactly what it was supposed to do. When the power became critically low, it first wrote the contents of RAM to the hard drive, then went to sleep. When the battery was completely drained some time later, the MBP went into hibernation and the slepp light stopped pulsing and turned off. In that state the machine was using no power at all, but the contents of your RAM were still saved. Once the AC adapter was connected, a press of the power button would cause those contents to be reloaded, and the machine would pick up again exactly where you left off. It is not necessary to wait for the battery to be fully charged before using the machine on AC power, but do leave the AC adapter connected for at least two hours after the battery is fully charged. Nothing that you say you've done was wrong, and nothing that you say has happened was wrong.
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I just bought a MacBook today (the mid-range white model) but I am a complete tyro in the Apple world. I have a few questions with respect to the calibration process. The manual is lucid with respect to everything except for three issues:
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-- BibleJordan

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No, I think this is wrong. You need to let it sleep without the power adapter. This causes the battery to deplete most of the remaining reserve charge. If you look in the manual on pages 23-24, steps 4-6 are critical. Basically it says to drain your battery till it goes to sleep (step 4). Then let it sleep for 5 hours (step 5). Then plug in the ac adapter and leave it in till it is fully charged (step 6).
So do not plug in the AC adapter until it has either been off for 5 hours or in sleep mode for 5 hours.
Personally I don't see how you can shut it off instead of sleep mode for the 5 hours, as once it goes to sleep mode, from low battery, you cannot wake it to turn it off unless you plug in the AC and that defeats the whole purpose...
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A CF card is for Compact Flash used in pro digital cameras like the Nikon D3.
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When "Identical Drives" are needed for RAID arrays, does that include the usable disk space (such as 256GB or 128GB, etc.)? Or does it just have to be the manufacturer/type of drive?
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Would any type of RAID even be applicable given the above situation? (In your opinion)
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Which of the 4 drives should be connected with RAID, if they even should be at all?
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Should the Source Media and Projects Drive be an HDD or SSD? I have proper backups and all that, but SIZE MATTERS. I have growing collections, so I need a lot of space on that drive.
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