STIII Force (TM) Thermal Compound First Impressions Exclusive! for nFo

Ok here is a first picture of STIII (TM). This newest product of the popular series is the most advanced yet it is a Technology breakthrough. This is the First Liquid Termal compound. It has come through excesive lab testing (still final packaking and marketing of the product is to be done).
features:
Liquid never dries out evaporation at 500 C
Excellent Thermal Properties, decrease you CPU Temperature up to 11 C
Cool Color and Tropical fruits Odor. Color different than STI & II because its liquid form
Can also be injected via drill hole to heat sink to increase heatsink performance up to 40%
Due to this technique (see pic above) any low cost aluminum heatsink can be used with excellent results
Cost effective solution no need for expensive and bulky HSF
Will not work for Intel CPUs or VIA chipsets motherboards (see purchase agreement). Exclusive only for AMD CPUs and nForce MBs
Fitted with nanorobots which actually identify CPU and chipset. CAUTION!! if applied in an intel cpu or other chipset than nForce STIII Force (TM) is turned into explosive liquid which detonates at 45 C!
Order now!
price at 29 US$ (incl VAT).
Markoul Laboratories (c) Inc.

Manolis,
I give the regulars from the old nForce forum plenty of lattitude, I just ask thet you keep the O.T. and the like posts to a minimum. MSI saw the need for people to have fun and post whatever they want and dedicated a forum to it.
Do not abuse the forum. I need to keep it running on topic 99.9% of the time.
Richard

Similar Messages

Thermal compound replacement, RESULTS and PICTURES

YOU CAN HAVE A MACBOOK PRO THAT ISN'T SCORCHING HOT!!
(note that this will NOT fix any whine or moo; they are unrelated problems)
Here's how.
My Mother's Macbook Pro (Or Cookbook, if you will) Arrived a week ago today. I played around with it to make sure everything is alright because my mother doesn't know how to check for things like dead pixels, bad ram, or cough improperly applied thermal compound.
One of the first things I noticed after turning on the new MBP is how totally sweet it is! The second thing I noticed is how freaking hot it is: I recoiled in pain from the Fn key bar the first time I touched it. Disappointed, I started searching the web and sure enough, pretty much everyone who owns one is complaining that it's too hot for comfortable use.
Apple calling this a "notebook" instead of a "laptop" is a total semantic cop-out. It's a PORTABLE COMPUTER and I must be able to trust it around my dogs, children, valuables without the MagSafe burning up or the battery swelling and bursting.
I don't have objective figures for just how hot it was, but it was right about at my pain threshold above and below the belt, and sometimes over it. I couldn't hold my hand to it for more than a few seconds. In particular the area to the left of the touchpad was of concern. I do have before-and-after figures of the CPU and HDD; I invite yourselves to look at them:
Before After (Temps in degrees C, ambient 25 C)
50-60 26-35 CPU (idle)
76-85 56-65 CPU (load)
41 33 HDD
In particular the HDD figures are a great relief. HDDs are notoriously sensitive to temperature and even a few degrees C can cut their lifetimes significantly. Furthermore the area is now cool to the touch and I can once again rest my left palm on it without discomfort. The ranges are due to the fact that the sensor inside the core duo is flaky. In 5 seconds it can run anywhere from +-5 to +-10. Nevertheless it is accurate enough for our purposes. Below are photos, procedure, and a rough outline of test methodologies:
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641589
Here's the idle scenario before the procedure. The computer has been on for hours (days really) and I'm doing the work I normally do on it. TextEdit is open (to a little project I'm working on) with firefox and the temperature monitor. Alt-tab is to show that those are the only programs running. CPU temp is dead at 50 C. This is INSANE for an idle figure on ANY computer; desktop, laptop, "notebook" or otherwise.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641590
The operation area and stress test. To stress the ATI chip I've jacked up the resolution, run a couple of quartz programs, SNES9x (a hardware emulator; the software shown is called "Energy Breaker") with a brutal multitasking OpenGL hardware renderer, and Google Earth. To get the CPU going I have Adobe's Lightroom processing thumbnails, and again SNES9x. For various I/O I have two shells executing yes > /dev/null, a USB mouse plugged in, and all the HDD access from lightroom. I figure it paints a pretty good picture of the "worst case scenario" of hardware stress for a laptop like this.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641591
The CPU core(s) is at 76 C. I should note that at this point, as hot as the CPU is, overall the case is really not much hotter than it was before. In other words, it's just as unacceptable.
At this point I turned her off and dug in. I used a howto from Ifixit to serve as my guide. The procedure went without surprises until I got all the way to the logic board.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641592
Dear lord!! That is an obscene amount of compound. It's casting a shadow over the rest of the board!! This gray gak is piled on so thick, it's no wonder the cooling system couldn't work effectively. It had even gotten all over components nowhere near the dies. That definitely cannot be good for their lifespan. Here's a shot of the heatpipe:
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641593
Terrible. Thermal compound has been squished out all over the place, including the chassis itself. This explains why it was getting so hot. A photo from the MBP service manual has been floating around the net, illustrating that this gross amount of compound is actually according to procedure.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641594
Clean as a whistle. After removing the bulk of the compound with q-tips I used ArctiClean 2-step process to emulsify the rest and remove it with paper towels. You can see it's not perfect but it's close enough for me. I'm not overclocking this thing; I just want to run it "in spec" and have it not burn me. At this point, the CPU dies and the heat pipe interfaces should have mirror finishes. It's an overclocker's dream, and Apple already did the work for me.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641595
This is how I applied Arctic Silver 5 to replace the compound I removed. Squeeze the tiniest little bit out of the syringe directly on to the die, and scrape it across with a flat edge (they recommend a razor blade but I just used a plastic ID card). Take the amount of compound you see on the Core Duo (on the right) and make a flat, even layer like the one you see on the ATI (left).
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641596
Turned it on and went straight for the hard stress test, after making sure everything was OK of course =) Wow! It reads 58 C in the screenshot, and doesn't go above 65C!! Moreover, there isn't even a bit of warmth above the Fn keys, and the HDD area is cool to the touch. I'd call this one a complete success. I'm idling right now and the temperature reads between 26 and 31C. Even the bottom is just slightly warm to the touch. Now I have a real laptop again!
So why did this happen?
There's a lot of confusion about the way the Macbook Pro cools itself. I admit it's confusing. Basically, Apple is shipping Macbook Pros with one cooling system, and replacing the thermal compound changes it into a very different system. Let me try to explain what I learned from digging around the hardware.
1. The built-in thermometer in the CPU is flaky. That's why you have to access it with a kernel extension and all kinds of hacks, and why Apple circumvented it completely in the cooling system. That's right: the MBP cooling system ignores the Core Duo temperature entirely.
2. The cooling system consists of a convective (my guess, I don't think anyone really knows what kind of) heatpipe which is in the base, directing heat out to two heatsinks which are then to be cooled by two fans if need be.
3. There are two temperature sensors. One is on the heatpipe itself, and the other one is on the chassis just next to the right fan. Probably the hardware monitors these temperatures and the differential between them to decide when to activate the fans and how long.
4. Behavior before the replacement procedure: The CPU core would get hot, hotter than I've ever seen a CPU go, at 80-85C. Most people confirm their MBPs also exhibit this. Where was this heat going? Well the fans didn't turn on until I put it at full load. Even when the fans did turn on, there wasn't much warm exhaust coming out of the vents at the back. The chassis heated up until it was unbearable, and most of the excess heat was being radiated away from it.
To sum up, the ineffective thermal interface between the CPU dies and the heat pipe was inhibiting heat from tripping the fan sensors. This explains why the fans didn't turn on until drastic temperatures were attained, and why the chassis got so hot. Essentially, the chassis was serving as a big heatsink for the CPU, which is the only reason it didn't overheat and shut down.
Effective, Apple, but not quite appropriate.
5. Behavior after the replacement procedure: The first thing you notice is that the fans scream from the second you turn the thing on. They aren't going full blast but pretty close to it. An effective thermal interface using an APPROPRIATE AMOUNT of AS5 (anything would do but I figured if I'm applying thermal compound, why not go for the authority) allows the heat to go straight from the cores into the heatpipe, tripping the sensor early and fast. The fans come on, I can feel hot air coming out the back, and the chassis now removed from the thermal equation is cool and comfortable again.
Of course, the thermal equation is different from before, and from the way Apple has tuned the fans to work from the factory configuration. This is more cooling than we probably need, and I foresee an update to Tiger allowing us to choose the thermal/noise tradeoff for ourselves.
Well, I hope that explains it, and I hope that those of you still suffering the abuses of your "in spec" MBP can take some hope from my findings, or are emboldened to go ahead and repeat the procedure yourself. I will post informative links here.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/85.1.0.html
http://www.arcticsilver.com/
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1864582 (This is where I learned of the thermal paste issue)
Remember if you ever open up your MBP to NOT BREAK ANYTHING and please, always read the instructions before you reach in. =)

methanol, my conclusion is that Apple's specifications for thermal grease application are technically sound. As a corollary, I put the postings claiming that isn't so in the Urban Myth category.
There's a lot of technical literature on design and manufacturing specifications for thermal grease use, the kind of literature that appears in professional technical publications and is written by engineers. That literature supports Apple's thermal grease specifications. Putting it another way, Apple's engineers have a lot more technical training and experience than the average hobbyist who is working from the directions that came with Arctic Silver.
Yes, my computer has the "messy" looking application of thermal grease. No, it isn't inappropriate and doesn't need to be modified, and Apple did not make a quality assurance/quality control mistake.
Posts about the thermal grease modification began appearing several months ago, followed by Hardware Monitor charts showing considerable differences in "before fix" and "after fix" temperatures. I found, however, that I could easily replicate those before and after charts, and my computer compared favorably with the "after fix" temperature charts. Why? There was no quality control on the generation of the charts. And of course some owners damaged their computers in the process of taking them apart and putting them back together. Not a good idea, in my opinion.
Painstaking manual application of thermal grease might result in an insignificant drop in CPU temperature, perhaps 2 or 3C. Trying that in a mass production situation would result in more CPU failures.
True, some people got very significant reductions of case temperatures. That will happen if the sensors are not working (broken connection) and the fans run full out.

OEM thermal compound not adequately applied?

The last two laptops I have had, have had overheating issues that were solved by removing the original thermal compound, and applying arctic silver 5. This current laptop (see sig), has had slight fan issues every since I bought it three years ago. There was one program that utlized flash (Encyclopedia Britannica) that would start my fan running loudly every time I started the program. After applying new thermal compound, I started that program and the fans stayed silent. And this laptop has been very silent (meaning, no fans) continually since this new application of compound.
I'm wondering now, if it would be worth the time and effort to tear down even a new laptop, as soon as any type of overheating issue presented itself, and take care of the paste. I'm suspecting that this laptop came out of the factory with a pretty crummy application, because after this new application, it has never been so quiet, not even in the first few weeks I owned it. It could also be that I shot compressed air and cleaned out a lot of dust, but I sincerely doubt there was much dust in this laptop when I first got it, and the fan was running a lot from the very first week I got it--that tells me that the issue was the thermal compound, not the dust.
Thoughts? Should people assume that the OEM thermal compound job was crummy?
Toshiba Satellite L755D-S5218
AMD A6-3400M Quad-Core CPU
8 gigs RAM
Windows 7
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Not exactly. It isn't just the paste type and application, but also how and where the system is used. My work laptop usually doesn't make it a year before it needs to be reapplied. It is used heavily, almost always running multiple programs at once, and is taken in and out of differing environments on a daily basis. The computer was built for this abuse, but some preventive maintenance is needed to keep it running smoothly.
I have had friends/neighbors, etc, bring me relatively new computers in the past(all different brands), with overheating issues, and sometimes it looks like the paste application is light, and other times it looks like it is just dried out. Could be a bad batch of paste, or just heavy usage taking a toll on it.
I look at thermal paste sort of like engine oil in your car. To keep it running smoothly, change it out on a scheduled interval.
Qosmio X875 i7-3630QM, 32GB RAM, OCZ SSD Qosmio X505 i7-920XM, PM55, 16GB RAM, OCZ SSD
Satellite Pro L350 T9900, GM45, 8GB RAM , Intel 320 SSD (my baby) Satellite L655 i7-620M, HM55, 8GB RAM, Intel 710 SSD (travel system)

What thermal compound goes with socket a antlon xp?? HELP!!

hey, i posted before, ive just sold me socket a processor, athlon xp 3000+, i desembled it so i can post it, just as some advice to the buyer when he re-assembles it, what compound should i recommend and how do you clean off the old stuff from the cpu and heatsink???
thanks much appreciated

YES USE COMPOUND
Make sure to remove ALL the old compound from CPU and HS
Clean the HS and CPU die surface thoroughly with alcohol just before installing compound on the processor.
The thermal compound should be applied so thin, you can almost see the text on the die through the compound. Do not use any on the heatsink just the CPU. Some recommend putting compound on the heatsink, then completely wiping it off... I disagree; I prefer that surface to be virgin clean. The compound on the die will do the job. Remember, the less you use the better the heat will transfer. Spread it with a strait razor or a credit card edge.
If you were to remove the heatsink after it has been installed properly, the text from the processor will leave an impression on the base of the heatsink where it came in contact. (of course it will appear reversed)
You can use Arctic silver or other silver based thermal compounds however I have never had a problem with the Radio Shack thermal compound and you do not have to worry about that stuff shorting out your processor like the silver based compound can.
Heat Sink lapping guide here if you like: http://www.a7vtroubleshooting.com/forum/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=a7v;action=display;num=989258239

Time Capsule - First Impressions

Hope this can help someone...
TC First Impressions:
=====================
-> Relatively easy to set-up a wireless-n-only 5ghz network next to an existing wireless a/g network with TC as the router and Linksys a/g as a gateway plugged into the TC via ethernet.
-> Able to access Seagate 250 GB external drive plugged into the TC USB without problem.
-> Can see both the TC drive and Seagate drive from XP/Vista/Mac and add/remove files. This is also true from Vista running on the boot camp partition or as a virtual machine.
-> Time Machine set-up and backup was relatively simple.
-> TC wireless-n/a (5 ghz) is not visible by the Xbox 360. Linksys wireless-a network still worked with open NAT.
-> TC wireless-n/g (2.4 ghz) is accessible by the PS3, but without UPnP. Linksys wireless-g network still worked with UPnP.
-> Airport Utility restart of the TC has some issues. If wireless from the iMac, the wireless-n network signal would degrade and become unusable -- needed to unplug TC for restart and then everything was fine. If wired through the ethernet port via XP, the Airport Utility sometimes won't see the TC after a restart -- necessitating logging out and back into XP, then the TC was visible.
-> Internet performance on the wireless-n network is better than wireless a/g (about 30 feet away), but not significantly. Signal is 'very strong'.
-> Wireless-n access through Window Vista on the boot camp partition is much slower (really unusable) for unknown reasons. However, access through the boot camp partition as a virtual machine (VMWare) is much better -- but still a little slower that Mac OS X.
-> TC runs warm, but not hot. No smell or odor.
-> TC runs quiet to me.
My lessons learned:
===================
-> Plug the power cord into the TC before the outlet. The fit of the plug on the back of the TC is tight and needs a little extra force to set.
-> The initial wireless Time Machine backup does take a long time.
-> If the initial Time Machine backup is interrupted....when restarted TM performs an integrity check of the disk. This will look like the backup is hung at 21KB or something like that. Just need to let it run. The backup will be fine.
-> You can keep your existing router by making it a gateway and plugging it into the TC. No real impact on performance that I can see.
-> Plugging in a external drive formatted as FAT32 under Windows Vista and containing no files caused the TC to blink amber on startup. Once files were loaded, problem solved.
Message was edited by: Jeffrey Gardner1

Max(IT) -> From what I know, the xbox 360 only uses 802.11a (wireless-a) which is a 5ghz spectrum, so I didn't try the 2.4ghz.
R. Berardi -> You can definitely plug your existing router into the TC being as a gateway, or vice-versa. Either way you'd have wireless-n, you just have to decide which router you want to be the gateway (or connect to the modem). Both can be given a range of IPs to assign as DHCP that don't overlap, and you should be able to reach router admin page and TC Airport Utility from either network (access is by IP). If you wanted to run ethernet upstairs, this would work as well - but the routers have to be connected via ethernet. I've set-up the TC as the gateway with a Linksys a+g router, and this is my experience/understanding.
Thanks.

First 'impression' of Safari 3.0 Beta in the first 5 minuites of use.

I'm using Windows Vista Home Premium and just downloaded Safari 3.0 for Windows Public Beta (Not included Quicktime)
The installation is processed smoothly.
I used it 5 minuites and my first impression is nothing but BUGs BUGs BUGs.
Alway Crash:
1. When click anything concerning Bookmarks, Safari crashes. (In other word, cannot use Bookmarks.)
2. When fill in any form, Safari crashes.
3. When access any pages with Javascript, Safari crashes.
Sometime Crash:
1. When access some pages, Safari randomly crashes. Ordinary pages such as this website itself. The symtom is both CPU core work reach 100% and needed to restart computer.
2. Randomly show message like "file not found, need reinstall." in any page, of course, even this page.
Bugs:
1. Cannot click on the button on the taskbar to minimize.
2. When minimize and restore, the Safari window going in restore down state.
3. Memory leak as I monitering RAM usage: increases more than 100MB when open Safari.
4. Font smoothing shows almost illegible.
Let down function:
1. Safari 3.0 for Windows Public Beta is the slowest web browser among all of browsers in my notebook. (IE7, Firefox, Opera, Cameleon Browser.)
STOP! saying "This is just a BETA!".
I love to test beta software and report bugs. I'm not a techical geeks so my testing method is to use them just as I always use in everyday life. No tweak or special use I squeesh to the program. I understand the BETA is not FINAL and of course, have more bugs than FINAL.
But this is not what I call bugs. I call "cannot be used."
How can you guy call this "PUBLIC" Beta? Have your programmer even see it in action in Windows before release to public?
This application is the second Apple application I experienced. (The first is iTunes.) It totally let me down because when compare with Internet Explorer 7 Beta 1 I tested last year, Safari 3.0 Public Beta is not in my sight.
How can you apply guy convince me that Apple is better than Microsoft since I compare just an essential small program and found no pros, even both are in beta state?
Hope to see Beta 2 with no major crash in the first 5 minuites usage.
ASUS W7F Windows Vista Intel Centrino Duo 2.00GHz 1.5GB DDRII Ram

Downgrading via Archive and install is notoriously unreliable. It is much safer to simply retrieve your backup you made before you installed the update after an erase and install. Of course you make at least two backups. Selective file recovery may be in order, such as found in migrating from PowerPC to Intel Macs:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=435350&tstart=0

ITunes 11.0 First Impressions

1. My first impression of the user interface is that it's "square" and "flat".
   Esthetically I don't see it as an improvement. To the contrary, I think
   the former interface is nicer.
2. After starting iTunes 11.0 it sat there for 1/2 an hour with the message
   "Sending Information to Apple", then a dialog box displayed with:
   We cannot complete your iTunes Store request
   An unknown error occurred (4002)
   Note that three subsequent attempts resulted in the same iTunes match error.
3. Could not find a way to change the BRIGHT WHITE background. I hate the white
   background for various reasons. I'm sure many other customers preferred the dark
    background as well.
4. Tried syncing my iPhone and had to cancel. It was copying 49 apps, I believe
   some of these were from my iPad. Had to then restart iTunes.
5. Movies in grid view have large gaps in between the rows of movies.
   It is UGLY! Is it just me, or do others have these huge gaps?
6. Looking at my music, I see no way to view the songs in a list view.
   Where are the convenient buttons which quickly allowed changing views?
   Now there is just unused space where they used to be. And all of
   the menu items under View -> Column Browser are disabled.
   Why???
7. Hey, at least they brought back color icons, which Apple deemed that
   no one liked! (That was sarcasm).
Overall I am extremely dissapointed with this update, and it has me wondering how the
most valuable company in the world could release something that looks more at home
on a Linux desktop.

It's terrible. There is no symmetry in the views anymore. It is so bad, that it will take a lot of testing for me to figure out what is wrong with it. The only view that allows different views is the playlist view. I can't get an "artist list" for all my music. I can only get it for the currently selected playlist. I suppose I could make a playlist with all music. Where did sort by album by artist/year go? That's the view I used the most. I found it in the songs view. But there I can't see the album covers. It's so unsymmetrical now. Where did the status bar go that told me how many songs I selected and what the total play time is? I don't know if all my songs are there. The albums view and the videos views are worthless if you have 15,000 songs and videos. They just rearranged things. There's nothing new. There are things missing. The thing that needed fixing was synchronization. All that should be removed from iTunes, but they didn't make any changes to that. Can I go back to iTunes 10?

CS-4 First Impressions

First impressions. I know, quite out of date but with all the apparent problems...
System is a Lenovo 3000 series AMD 64x2 3800+
Power supply upgraded
Memory 2 gig Crucial (maximum for the MB)
Video card is Nvidia GeForce 7300 GS - Latest drivers. Not on the supported list.
Display is 1280 x 1024.
Windows XP Home SP-3, Net Framework 3.5 SP 1, and other Forum recommended updates that aren't handled by Windows Update.
1.05 TB in three drives. (1 K=1024)
Working with a 6144x4111 pixel 16 bit ProPhoto digital photograph:
As installed, in the trial download, GUI settings, Photoshop swap file is NOT on the system drive.
The start up time is about the same as with CS-3. Faster than CS.
Top menu bar text is rough and appears broken until I put the curser over the text. Then it clears up.
Click & drag zoom works like a charm.
"Toss" has a quarter to half second delay before the image moves.
Lag behind brush is quite noticeable even when zoomed in.
Brush border is rough & jagged. An indicator that the brush smoothness slider is set to full smooth?
I saw no delay with typing. (I have to look at the keys and when I looked up after the last letter it was there and sharp.)
A new learning curve for the palates IS going to need to be climbed. Or is there a "Look like CS, CS2, CS3" toggle somewhere? (NOTE the "First Impressions" above!)
Now for the interesting part. This test showed the same results as a test, same file but reduced to 3074 pixels width and in 8-bit color. I was doing a "see if file size makes a difference" test.
There was no difference in behavior with the system running "free" or with ZoneAlarm Pro and BitDefender running in the background. I have BitDefender set to NOT load on computer boot.
With the stock Open GL settings and a below grade video card, the brief test gave better than expected results with the main down grade being brush lag.
Just my observations with a video card that may be pushed beyond what can be reasonably expected of it and settings not tuned as per recommendations here.
One thing that I haven't seen mentioned before is the new ability to re-tune the settings in adjustment layers. There have been many times I would have wanted that ability in the past.
Bill

let me make sure I get this; the phone, it is a phone after all, does not have good signal, and it will not pair properly with bluetooth, but you are saying 'everything else is fine'!!!!!!! Why don't you return it, and go get yourself an itouch? You will have all the apps, etc. Then get a mifi from sprint/verizon and you are all set. Then, go get yourself a proper phone with a decent carrier and you will be all set.

Thermal compound for G4 needed ?

I have a Quicksilver G4 (DP 1GHz) which ran trouble free(except CD/DVD Drive) for many years. One fine day I got kernel trap and not co-operating since.
When I press the power on button it lights up momentarily but no chime.
It did work for few hours after few days
I really like to revive it and I have done the following
1. Reset the PMU switch on logic board.
2. Replaced 3.7 Volt battery
3. Reseated all the PCI cards (Video, SCSI card, Ultra SCSI etc)
4. Checked the voltages on Power supply.
5. Cleaned all the dust (lot of it) on the fans and inside the tower.
Now I am planning to re-seat the processor card. For this I need to remove heat sink. I read in a website (http://www.jcsenterprises.com/Japamacs_Page/Blog/9AE7FE0E-0CF2-4A7C-8003-489B282 582BC.html) that *thermal compound* is a must.
But then in this forum and Apple Service manual I don't see any thermal compound mentioned for Heatsink for Powermac G4.
Now my concern is whether this is recommended step. I don't want to create new problems on top the existing ones.
I call on the experts...:)

Hi Japamac,
Thanks a lot for your help
I did put thermal compound and thought I had my G4 power mac back.
But now I have a dead machine which powered up once or twice.
I am guessing there is seating issue of CPU daughter board.
I did press firmly on the place where CPU pin attach to logic board
So my question instead of trying
1. Removing heatsink
2. Reseat CPU
3. Clean heat sink and apply compound
4. Put the heatsink
5. Pray and turn on the Powermac hoping I get it right this time
Can I just reseat CPU and then place the heatsink on Top and then turn on Power mac with out applying compound just for few minutes?
If it works then I apply comound and then put on heatsink. Then that is it .
Will the CPU go bad if I dont have compund on heatsink for few minutes..?
Appreciate your help

How good is the stock thermal compound on the Rx9800?

I can't overclock my card any higher than 410/370 w/o artifacting, yet when I touch the heatsink it is only mildly warm when I have a big fan on it. This leads me to believe that the stock thermal compound b/w the heatesink and chip is crappy... perhaps it's "just" enough to cool stock speeds, but is **** in overclocking.
Can someone give me some more info on this?

Just like overclocking a CPU, some clock higher than others, you may have one of those cards that just won't overclock very well.
The stock thermal compound is always going to be just fine, it's often the way it has been applied that's the problem.
I always pull the heatsink off and take a look at how it was applied. I usually end up putting a little more on the RAM and make sure it is spread evenly.
I try not to add to much, as excessive amounts can create heat buildup and slow dissipation.

Best way to apply thermal compound

I'm going to tear down my 3 year old laptop and apply thermal compound to the CPU. I do have a question.
Some instructions have said to apply it all over the cpu, other say to apply only a rice grain sized, and then push the heatsink onto the cpu and let the pressure from the heatsink push the thermal paste around.
What do people here say is best?
Toshiba Satellite L755D-S5218
AMD A6-3400M Quad-Core CPU
8 gigs RAM
Windows 7
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I guess whatever gets results. I would consider putting thermal compound on both surfaces a waste of material and also likely over-application which can sometimes give worse thermal performance and/or possibly cause other problems if excess thermal compund comes into contace with any other surface mounted devices. Oh well, glad it all worked out.
L305-S5955, T9300 Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM, 60GB SSD, Win 7 Ultimate 64-bit

First impressions -Bad Start

Took me some time to get all the various connections sorted. Initial feeling is that the freeview picture isn't as good as my old box. Some of the channels(including BBC1)have black lines around the edge which weren't there before. When I had a quick look at the on demand content had to say I was a bit disappointed. Thought I'd try it out this evenoing only to get a message saying it was currently unavailable, please try later. I couldn't access any of the menu items - I think I got error 400 - and then to add insult to injury I couldn't even get the Freeview channels , just got a BT screen saying 'starting up' or something similar. So, only analogue to fall back on. Lucky we haven't had the switch off yet. First impressions, not good.

The black lines are displayed while a 4:3 aspect programme is showing in order to display it correctly. If you'd rather have it distorted, but fill the screen then you can use the shortcut menu to stretch. If I remember rightly you may have to keep setting that, can't remember as I never use it myself.
Make sure that the box is successfully connected to the internet through the hub as it won't be able to start without chatting to the server.

First impressions of the 3.0 update from a 1st gen iPhone user

MIne is a 1st gen iPhone purchased opening day 2 years ago and I had a brief period of non working stocks and weather apps that are now fine (apparently an issue that was widespread today across the diff iPhones). After that everything is business as usual. I did reset my settings after the install and restore my iphone with a current back up as a precaution and so far works great.
First impressions: The camera is a little snappier and sharper in photo taking.
Copy and paste: RAD!!!
Voice memos: Can send instantly via e-mail MY LADY LIKES....KINDA KINKY!!!
Find my phone: Would be cooler with GPS the 1st gen won't help you find exactly where it is.
Spotlight: very functional and useful for a phone packed with stuff...like mine.
Landscape keyboard: nice but should have been there 1st time out.
Overall it's the kind of update that a moderately smart user that can RTFM will install and enjoy. If you are an idiot who tries to install it from a buddies computer or likes to unplug things in midstream you won't like it, because your phone will be useless until you do it properly and follow the simple steps.

hi,
we were trying an export from one database to another- and ran into problems- portal created a package under the portal30 schema (dbms_lob- a copy of which originally exists under the sys schema) that was previously not there.
so we decided to uninstall the portal and the sso schemas. we carried out this step:
1) Drop the Portal, SSO, and their respective _public DB users cascade.
but the portal30 schema will not allow us to drop the dbms_lob package that it created (which incidentally compiles with an invalid package body)
it continues to give the following error message:
ORA-00600: internal error code, arguments: [16201], [], [], [], [], [], [], []
is there any way to complete the unistallation of portal without unistalling the entire database?
thanks for any help.
sharadha
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First impressions of the iPad

I played with an iPad yesterday at our local Apple Store, and my first impressions are very positive. I plan to buy one when the 3G models come out in a few weeks.
The only major disappointment for me is that the iPad OS does not support printing to local networked or shared printers. Does anyone know of a good 3rd party solution for this?
Thanks,
-AstraPoint

First impressions of the iPad
I'm reasonably satisfied. iPad was purchased primarily as a nightstand entertainment device for the bedroom. I use it for reading, streaming of netflix video, playback of synched TV content, and/or playing music before going to sleep at night. (Wife likes to watch TV but I usually prefer reading a chapter or two or catching up on Lost which I never watched on TV.) And, while I don't really plan to use it for and serious productive/creative work, I did invest in the iWork apps for presentations at computer group meeting and/or the creation of PDF files when away from home and visiting relatives. (Plan to take it with me today when about 15 relatives all gather for our annual Easter Meal at a local restaurant.) In any case, I am happy with my purchase.

First impressions (mixed bag)

My first impressions after having BT Infinity installed on Friday are a mixed bag. Speed tests extremely good, 76Mb down/ 18Mb up, pretty maxed out on a short line (cab < 300 metres). However, my gripes.....
P2P is heavily shaped. No problem, afterall I was on BT ADSL and used to traffic shaping being lifted in early hours of the morning to do download. However, uploads are permently 24/7 throttled to 1Mb, which I do not think it acceptable.
I run an FTP server and regularly upload to it. FTP port is permentaly throtlled to 8Mb upload. I know this is still fast but I think to artificially slow FTP upload down 24/7 is again unacceptable.
Home hub 3 is rubbish and a security risk. It permently keeps port 161 open (as tested by test my shields) and port forwarding seems broken. I thought I had a faulty one but after doing some research it seems that these are common issues!
Needless to say initially impressed, but now I'm more annoyed with the service. Like car with a top speed of 150MPH but can never do more than 60MPH, even on a empty road!

Thanks for your advice guys. I already subscribe to SwissVPN as I have always done on ADSL to bypass traffic shaping, and it used to max out my 4Mb connection but that seems capped too at 8Mb down and about 1Mb up. I pay about £6 a month.
Can you recommened another VPN provider that can provide higher speeds than this? I wouldn't mind a US VPN as I guess this would allow to access media content in the US (hulu etc) but would really prefer highest speed VPN possible for under £10 a month? What VPN speeds to you get using StrongVPN?
A basic feature such as port forwarding I would expect on the cheapest of routers. What the point in a router if it can't route? This must be causing BT support calls that aren't really needed if router worked as intended.

STIII Force (TM) Thermal Compound First Impressions Exclusive! for nFo

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