Stil image (photo) quality in rendered project

I'm having an issue with the quality of photos that I've added to a video. The quality of the still photo exhibits a lot of "jagged" edges along things that should be straight lines. Photos of stone walls look almost like the stones are vibrating. This happens when viewed in the canvas and in the rendered video. I have animated the photos by adjusting the scale and position at various keyframes. The effect was most notable when I used iDVD to create a DVD and viewed the contents on a TV. The photos where brought from Aperture (Brower ->Import Files).
Settings:
Timeline:
VidRate: 29.97 fps
Frame Size: 720 x 480
Compressor: DV/DVCPRO - NTSC
Pixel Aspect: NTSX - CCIR 601
Anamorphic : (checked)
Field Dominance: Lower (even)
Audio Rate: 48.0 KHz
Aud Format: 32-bit floating point
Video:
VidRate: 29.97 fps
Frame Size: 720 x 480
Compressor: DV/DVCPRO - NTSC
Pixel Aspect: NTSX - CCIR 601
Anamorphic : (checked)
Field Dominance: Lower (even)
Audio Rate: 48.0 KHz
Aud Format: 16-bit integer
Photos (originally shot in RAW, just copied from Aperture Library via FCE):
VidRate: 29.97 fps
Frame Size: 1944x1294
Compressor: Photo - JPEG
I'm guessing some of the problems are going from a still image in an interlaced video. I have taken the output video and run in through JES Deinterlacer, but that doesn't solve the problem. I've exported the video with both (Export -> Quicktime Conversion) and the settings suggested in http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1611. Any help in improving the quality of the still images (or any other suggestions) would be greatly appreciated.

OK, I looked at this export some and I have a question. Why is it that "Export -> QuickTime Movie" and then changing values in another tool the right solution?
So what I did was:
1. Follow the steps on http://www.fcpbook.com/Video9.html. Specifically the steps to use QuickTime Pro for this (seems with Snow Leopard and FCE, QuickTime 7's pro features are unlocked).
2. Followed the guidance http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1611 and used "Export-> Quicktime Conversion".
It seems that in any case, you are calling the same compression codecs and thus ending at with the same thing. The file sizes are are only about 1kB different and a diff of the data provided from MediaInfo Mac (http://mediainfo.massanti.com/) show only some minor differences in the metadata in the files.
So what exactly is different between the two different approaches and why is "QuickTime Movie" the better option? i hope this question doesn't come across as combative in any way -- I'm honestly curious about the differences and learning as much as I can about the different processes.
Thanks for all of your help,
Chris
P.S. It looks like Anamorphicizer doesn't work well with 10.6 -- it throws an error and opens QuickTime X. Without tracing system calls or anything, my immediate guess is that it uses Quicktime behind the scenes and hasn't been updated to account for the existence QuickTime X.

Similar Messages

Photo quality in Calendar project

I am making a calendar for my mother for christmas with pictures of events important to her. A lot of the pictures however are getting this exclamation mark symbol saying that the quality when printed will be low. Is there a way I can preview what it will look like before purchasing? Or can anyone tell me how bad/good the quality actually is. I don't mind if it is lessened so long as you can still make out the picture, I just don't want a picture that ends up looking like a blob.

No and no
You can preview the calendar using the book instructions -
Before ordering your book preview it using this method - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1040 - and save the resulting PDF for reference - the delivered book will match it.
BUT
your screen is a 72 DPI display and the photos need to be at least180 DPI to avoid the warning so that preview does not show final print quality
And no one can tell you what yoru opinion of the final quality would be in any case - only you can make that judgement
What DPI are the photos? (DPI - Dots Per Inch - Pixel dimensions of the picture divided by the inches of the final print)
I have printed 72 DPI photos and they were noticably pixelated but there were what they were and the final photo was acceptable to me
Right now your question give No information to give anyone a chance at even makeing a crazy guess - it is a "how long is a piece of string" question
All anyone can tell you now is that the ones with warnings will not be as good of quality as the ones without warnings
LN

Crappy photo quality when inserting images, how to improve?

I work extremely hard on the quality of my images and when I use iDVD they don't look to bad, but when I insert images in between video clips in iMovie the quality of the images is degraded something terrible and my professional images look like they were taken on a cheap camera phone. Exporting the videos at the highest quality helps a little, but it seems to be the import quality which is reducing them down - least that is what it appears to me.
How can I improve the photo quality in iMovie?

Hi,
Defcom has listed the main fix.
You could also try the Bandwidth setting in iChat > Preferences > Video section > Bandwidth Limit drop down.
We would suggest 500kbps for some ISPs
Using Little Snitch does show that Bonjour Video chats do use the Internet
It is probably done so that the SNATMAP Server that helps connect Video and Audio Only chats knows you are busy.
9:34 PM Tuesday; July 28, 2009
Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"

Recommendations for best photo quality in a slideshow video?

I have a project that I'm working on where photo quality is a priority to the customer. I'd never paid attention previously that the final product was less than perfect with the images...
Can someone recomend what best procedure would be and what settings I should be using on the sequence to preserve the quality? (or point me to a link that could walk me through it) The photos are all 1024px wide at 300dpi, currently saved as .jpgs. I can resize and save them from Photoshop into another format if needed...
Thank you!

Saw that you were going to DV. Your images will be scaled, but not by that much. If you will be doing and Pans with an image Zoomed out to max, you'll have a bit of wiggle room. In general terms, 1000x750 is recommended, though I size all of my images as needed, usually 720x480. The resizing algorithms in PrPro are not as good as those in PS. Still, you're talking such a small amount of scaling and already have JPEG's to start, that I would leave them, as they are.
In the future, you might try to go to before the JPEG compression, where quality is the biggest concern, and resize to suit in PS. Save_As .PSD.
Here's an ARTICLE on resizing in PS, if it's of interest to you.
Good luck,
Hunt

Photo quality follow-up questions

I read OT's response to a photo quality question and had some follow-ups I'd like to ask. Aside from cropping photos to 4:3 format does increasing the dpi of the photos have any effect in improving the quality of the final image in iDVD?
I'm making a dvd of family photos for my wife. Some were taken with a digital camera, some are photos scanned by myself and some are photos given to us by relatives that they scanned. I'm putting them together in iMovie, leaving them static - no pans or zooms, keeping the image size at a value of "1", setting the duration at 5 seconds and grouping them by subject using chapter markers so I can get around the 99 photos limitation. (I have over 1500 photos.)
I've already burned on dvd and was disappointed by the "jaggies" on most of the photos when viewed on my cinema display. Haven't looked at the dvd on a regular tv (CRT, not flat screen/digital). The images looked great in iMovie. It occurred to me that increasing the dpi - most were at 72 dpi - to 300 might improve this issue all other things remaining the same. I can do that easily in Photoshop, but was wondering if that would be a waster of time - especially if no improvement would be realized.
Thanks for any thoughts/help that anyone can offer.

iMovie HD 6.0.3 and iDVD 6.0.4
As far as I know - this will give max quality possibly when making a Video-DVD
resolution: 72dpi or 300dpi
depends on size
A small picture 200 x 300 pixels - will be worse than a 1200 x 1600 picture.
Resolution doesn't matter as I see it.
iMovie and/or iDVD will try to scale it to fit - and up or down-scaling
will not be done kindly.
Still using my 2016 × 1512 - usually give good result in iMovie
but if I Share to iDVD (iMovie HD6 6.0.3 or 4) - BAD RESULT
I just close the iMovie project
Drop the iMovie project icon (With a black star on it) into the iDVD application (menu window).
Result best possibly for a Video-DVD - DVD standard is the limit.
Else that determine the final quality on the DVD
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
Try to break the process up into two stages
• Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
• Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
To isolate where the problem starts.
Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
• No File Vault on - Important
• NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
• Lot's of icons on DeskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
• Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
• And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
Yours Bengt W

I-movie verses I-photo quality questions

I am starting to learn i movie, and while creating a production i noticed that the slide show in i-photo looks beautiful as far as quality goes,but in i-movie the same photos lack the clarity i expect. are they two different beasts,or can i expect more from i-movie?
Also is there any school of thought on wether i-movie is up to the task for creating quality shows on an lcd projector,or should i be getting something else? i want the ultimate resolution show i can do,but honestly this movie stuff confuses me with its limitations. i am supplying i-movie with 6 meg jpg files which i gather is almost to much info for it.

Hello Donald,
You may want to have a look at a Slideshow software package from Boinx; it's called FotoMagico and you can download the software free of charge for a duration of 6 days. They recommend OSX 10.4 and preferably the latest "dual chip" system ! It took me quite some time to understand how the thing worked !!! The "help screen" is only basic; but you get good response from the "Support Team", although there can be some delays in the process.
Because of the limitations of my Computer, I was not able to project the results via a projector or even burn to DVD, but the image quality on my computer screen is superb; you dictate which resolution you want to end up with, including the 16.9 format 1920 x 1080. To modify an image to the format you want is child play. The Audio side has me still puzzled as to how to trim the sound to fit a sequence in a smooth way; it is certainly not to the level in terms of facility and flexibility in use, of that in iMovie.
I think you'll need to spend a fair bit of money for a good projector, probably DLP rather than LCD. I've seen some A/V 1024 x 768 which looked pretty good, but the projector was part of a fixed professional installation.
Keep in mind though that you still can't beat the quality of top quality, sharp slides, projected in the conventional way with top quality optics. On the other hand, video projectors can throw a lot of light onto the screen !
I think you and I are probably demanding a level of quality in video projection which is not quite as yet readily available at a reasonnable price; looking at the latest Sony top of the range porojector, it's on the way, but too expensive for me !
Good luck
jcr
eMac - G4 Mac OS X (10.3.7) 768 MB SDRAM

For highest photo quality what should ppi be? in photoshop should I "Sharpen Edges" as in use for web?

For highest photo quality what should ppi be to look good in Retina? In photoshop should I use "Sharpen Edges" as I would for in use for web?

There are about 1 trillion threads and replies about the size of images to be used and accepted when using iBA.
Obvioulsy you have not taken time to search the forum before asking your question, nor do you seem to have downloaded the iBA asset guide.
I suggest you go to Apples iPad page on the store and check the screen dimentions/ resolution for a non mini iPad retina. DPI at 72 or above is your choice.
I also suggest before setting out on a book project, you take time to read the forum and download the PDFs which are available.
A KT states in effect - first do your own home work before starting out asking questions and that way you will avoid the proverbial self inflicted wounds - which will follow because it seems you have not yet actually spent time learning about iBA or read the help files.
This forum will gladly spend time and effort to help folk... but most dont really have time to continually givie answers which already exist on the forum.

How do I include the photos in a imovie project to the finished dvd so the users can have access to them?

I've included alot of old photos in an iMovie project and would like to include them on the finished DVD I create with iDVD. I woud like the users to be able to have access to them so they can print them, store them on their own computer or whatever they would like to do. How would I do this?

You do this by creating a DVD-ROM section on your DVD. See this explanation from iDVD Help.
Adding files to the DVD-ROM portion of a disc
You can let viewers copy files directly from your DVD by adding the files to the DVD-ROM portion of the disc. These files are burned onto the DVD and are accessible when the disc is viewed on either a Windows PC or a Macintosh computer, but not a DVD player.
You can add any kind of file to the disc. For example, if your disc contains a slideshow, you can add the image files to the DVD-ROM portion of the disc so viewers can download them to their own computers and print them. You can also add a file containing your movie production notes and other “extras.”
To manually add files to the DVD-ROM part of your disc:
Choose Advanced > Edit DVD-ROM Contents.
The DVD-ROM Contents window opens.
Click Add Files, or click New Folder first if you want to create a folder to put the files in.
Browse to select your files or folders, then click Open to add them to the disc.
You can also drag files directly to the DVD-ROM Contents window. When you are done, just close the window.
When you add a file to the DVD-ROM portion of your disc, before you burn the disc the project contains just a reference to the location of the file on your hard disk, not the actual file. So if you delete a file from your computer or move it from its location after adding it to the DVD-ROM contents, you get a “File not found” message when you try to burn your disc. You can either remove these missing files from the DVD-ROM contents or find them on your computer and put them back in the original location so iDVD can access them.
As you add files to the DVD-ROM contents, be sure to check the DVD Capacity meter in the Project Info window to find out how many gigabytes of disc space are being used. The Capacity meter shows the disc space taken up by the video portion of the disc as well as the DVD-ROM portion.

How do i make a still image (photo) fit the length of the music? I record music and want to put the tracks to a video file with a still image of my business logo in the background. Any help?

How do I make a still image (photo) fit the length of the music? I record music and want to convert the tracks to a video file with a still image of my business logo in the background. On windows movie maker you could just select "fit to music" but this program isnt as easy to figure out! Any help?

Double-click on the still image in the project timeline to open the Inspector. In the Inspector, adjust the duration by typing in a new duration to match the length of your music. I think the limit for a still image is 10 minutes. If you need more than this, simply drag the image into the timeline again then adjust its duration. The two images will play seamlessly (no gap will be visible).
See this iMovie Help topic:
http://help.apple.com/imovie/#mov3a883915
You can achieve more precision when entering durations by changing a preference in the menu item iMovie Preferences. Check (tick) the preference for Show Time As HH:MM:SS:frames. This will enable you to enter the duration of stills down to the frame level, rather than full seconds (NTSC is 30 frames per second; PAL is 25 fps). When entering times, type a colon between each time segment, such as 2:50:15, which represents 2 minutes 50 seconds and 15 frames. For 5 seconds 20 frames you would enter 5:20 and so forth.
Note that the music will only run to the length of the video in the timeline (in your case, the still images). So, after increasing the stills duration you will need to drag the end of the music track as far as required. The stills can be dragged inwards to reduce the duration if necessary.
John
Message was edited by: John Cogdell - added Note

Photo quality in Imovie

I have Imovie HD 6 and Final Cut Express. I am creating the typical slideshow with photos from a digital camera and adding transitions and music, blah, blah.
When I export in each application I get the same quicktime export screen. No matter what I do I get crappy photo quality in the imovie export and amazing photo quality in the FCE export. Are they not both using the same quicktime export? Why is there such a difference in quality?
I did notice that if I render the imovie video as "uncompressed" ir in HD I get ALMOST the same quality as the FCE render on a typical MP4 export.
Just wondering why this is since they seem to both just be using Quicktime to create the compression.

I don't own FPE (or have any "video" camera) but you're mixing apples and oranges when using image formats in "video" apps.
iMovie is a DV editing app and converts your single image into 30 similar files per second (.dv). The same is probably true with FCE but it may be set for "high quality" which may appear better. And the newer option to use MPEG-4 does make a bit of difference.
Neither is appropriate for using still image files because of this conversion.
First rule would be to use the appropriate dimensions for your destination. Standard definition video would be 640X480 and not your multi megabyte source files.
I would add (scaled) the 640X480 sized image to a few seconds of audio (you decide the duration), extract the new video track and then export that as DV Stream (.dv) using QuickTime Pro.
Same as if it came from a DV camera.

Photo Quality in iDVD

I work with still photos only. Want a slideshow that maintains photo image quality. iMovie coverts to video file & degrades the quality. Changed to FotoMagico. Maintains photo quality in slideshow & offers transitions, KB effect & title slides. It exports to iDVD or Roxio Toast to burn DVD. After the burn in iDVD, the images are distorted and the transition movements are very choppy. Is iDVD coverting this to video images, thereby degrading the photo quality? Is there a way to use iDVD and maintain quality? Would Toast be better? My goal is to produce a photographic quality "still photo" slideshow using transitions, KB, etc. I am selecting NTSC 4:3, best quality in both programs. Getting very frustrated trying to output the quality I can see on my display in a DVD...any suggestion?

Hi,
I feel like I am back at school...
1. I have the BETA version because when I tried to export or burn a DVD neither worked. They knew that was a problem & sent me the BETA fix. Now I can burn or export.
2. My problem is whatever I do with the burn results in loss of image quality. I have been corresponding with Werner at FotoMagico who has been very helpful. He says image quality from still photos which have been authored & burned can not maintain image quality the technology just doesn't exist unless I go to a pro DVD lab and have them work with compressions per frame. He specifically said it is due to limitations with the MPEG-2 stream, which is standard in DVD playback. The little I have read on this is over my head.
3. Right now I will forgo the idea of playback on a TV. Let's just deal with computer. When I burn to DVD as my option and it opens in iDVD it results in degraded images. I don't know what to select in iDVD and or FotoMagico to change this result or if it is even possible. I run a G5 with a 23" monitor, most current software on ALL prgrams. Picture files are digital froma Nikon D200 and a mix of negative and slides scanned in with a Nikon CoolScan 5000 and moved into iPhoto via the scanner or a transfer from Adobe. I am having the problem with all these types. What do you mean by resolution in iPhoto?
4. I transfer from FotoMagico to iDVD by selecting 'Burn DVD' and it opens to 'iDVD'. I have left all settings on FotoMagico and iDVD at default settings and Werner said that should be okay. FYI - I have tried changing slideshow setting from display reolution to 23" monitor to NTSC. Nothing seems to change image quality.
5. I would like at this point to be able to maintain image quality for transer in Quick time, upload to .MAC web account, etc. Help me there I am lost.
6. Someone on this discussion also suggested burning to iDVD using the data portion only of the DVD using disk utility. I need help there. Also will that reproduce sound or only the photos. I understand that TV's and DVD players will not accept this mode and that is okay until someone figures out a way to maintain image quality for TV w/o an expensive lab.
7. Werner said this is possible but they suggest copying the entire package (document as well as images and audio) and move it to iDVD or Toast. On the target devise install a FOtoMagico demo version & run it there. or if the target machine is not a Mac & FotoMagico can 't be nstalled there, you can export manually to a QuickTime movie by selecting 'export' frpm the File menu. Use 'HD preset or 'QuicltTime' & burn the resulting file to a DVD. My husband & I will work on this (with a tech if nec) and maybe you have some thoughts as well.
At the end of this I think I will know more about video and FPS and MPEg's than I ever intended. Oh well, a little knowledge never hurt anyone!
One last thing, what is a BETA for NTSC. I hate to bug Werner again without knowing what this is!

Photo Quality horrible in iWeb....any ideas?

Hey everyone. I just finished making my website. Its very early, and Im just working out the kinks until worrying about making it a bit more appealing. Anyways, one of the issues Im having is photo quality. I am taking my photos on an 8mp camera. When I import them into iWeb they look compressed and horrible when viewed (once enlarged through slideshow or just clicking). If you want to check out the website to see what I mean, the adress is:
http://web.mac.com/jon_leibowitz/iWeb/Site/Home.html
go to gallery and click on any of them. The main aim of my website is my photography, so its crucial for the photos to look top notch. btw, Im using high resolution pictures, imported them into iPhoto, and then used the multimedia button to import them into iWeb. Thanks!

Hello Jonathan!
Really nice photos! You, no doubt, have a much better eye than I do for details and such and it's no wonder that various compression artifacts would be more noticeable to you! Your photos look very acceptable to me.
The downside to the iPhoto-to-iWeb one-click automatic process is that you the photographer lose control over two things... the quality of resolution scaling and the quality of jpg (re)compression. Preprocessing of your images in something like Photoshop would definitely give you more control over these variables and would most likely allow you to see more acceptable images as posted online.
For your information, the max resolution for the Apple enhanced slideshows is 800x600. If you import a photo at any higher resolution, iWeb will take over again and resize and recompress your photo. So my recommendation to you would be to preprocess your images to make them look good at 800x600 and prevent iWeb from doing anything else to your images.
I hope this helps.

A rebuild removed projects from photos and put empty projects in the trash.

I'm running Aperature 3.2.4 in OS 10.6.8 (Snow Leopard) on a MacBook Pro 1,1
I have a large library of 37,000 images on an external hard drive. I have experienced a number of problems which culminated in a corrupted drive and library which I have taken several steps to repair. In an attempt to be thorough, I may be including more info than necessary, but here is my tale.
1) There have been inconsistencies for some time when deleting photos in the camera (compact flash card uploaded through camera) when importing photos. Occurring more frequently, the photos did not get deleted when I made that selection, most normally with the unmount camera box check. This is a big deal, I adapted by checking the camera when it was unmounted.
2) I hadn't been emptying the trash in Aperture and accumulated several hundred photos in the trash. Blame it on procrastination and no appearance of pressing necessity.
3) My camera has developed some problems with the USB port, perhaps getting worn with a lot of use. When importing photos, the camera has recently started disconnecting during the import of photos..
4) This has resulted in a corrupted drive directory, which I was able to repair with Disk Warrior. It also resulted in photos that were not in the Aperture library. Aperture was no longer able to see those unimproved photos, no matter what drive I was able to copy them to. I resolved the import problem by changing the file name slightly. I assume that Aperture registers filenames before importing, and if the import fails, Aperture is unable to see that the import failed. I have added those files by changing the file names, and my long term solution was to get a CF card reader.
5) I thought that my problems were solved, but when I opened Aperture today, I got a dialog box telling me that I need to repair permissions, then another about rebuilding the library, and a whole series of failed attempts to do so with a string of boxes suggesting that I quit, rebuild, or repair, all attempts eventually hanging. Disk Warrior tells me that several plists mostly involving changes could not be repaired. After several attempts and restarts, I was able to open the library in Aperture.
6) The left window was missing a large number of projects, but in photo view, all of the photos and versions were there with the meta data showing a path to the original projects. In the project view, all of the projects were there, but I could not open any by clicking on them. When I viewed the trash contents, there were a lot of empty projects. It was probably a mistake, but I emptied the trash.
7) I have not closed Aperture for fear that might result in changing those paths attached to photos. Hopefully they are the key to setting things straight.
Is there any way I can undue the trash dump, or otherwise return photos to the appropriate projects? I'm talking about nearly 400 projects, so this is not a minor glitch.

I quit Aperture, which hung up while writing preveiws, so I did a force quit. I restarted Aperture while holding down command and option keys, but Aperture opened directly into library with all projects and photos intact. Oddly enough the projects seem to be in a random order, certainly a different order.
I closed Aperture without a problem
I ran Disk Warrior again, and once again there are damaged property lists that cannot be repaired. There are 9 plists numbered from
File: "0000000002.plist"
thru
File: "0000000012.plist"
all in
Aperture Library.aplibrary/Database/History/Changes/
I opened Aperture again while holding down command and option keys, this time getting the dialog I wanted, and I'm now running Repair Library Database.
Well the dang thing seems to be hung at "Repairing Library 100% complete"
I'll give it a while, Force Quit and try again.
Any suggestions? Should I try a rebuild on the next try?

Crunmmy photo quality in Safari

I get poor quality photos quality using Safari in any site.No problem with Firefox.My daughter running e-Mac with same Mac system no problem with Safari. New to Mac and a bit disappointed,I thought Mac were the tops for graphics & photos.Any ideas please. Many thanks

Hi Tools,
Try turning off the accelerator, I'll bet that is the culprit.
The accelerators usually downsample the picture quality to reduce the filesize of the images at the expense of quality, but improving speed.
I think they usually work by directing requests to a proxy server - in firefox you normally have to set this manually which may be why it appears to work fine, but Safari doesn't.
Enjoy your sleep and catch you tomorrow...

Photo quality prints in elements 10

can anybody help me? I have elements 10.
I am using a an imac os x vesion 10.8.1. I have been trying to change the printer settings to achieve a photo quality print,but cant seem to get a photo quality result. I have tried resetting the dpi settings in the image size drop down, but this doesn't make any difference.
On the last version of elements I had, elements 6, you could change from ordinary paper to photo qulity paper.
Please help as I cant get a good result from my printer which is an epson stylus photo r300.
Thanks for any help.

By default, the photodownloader creates a folder structure named by dates. You can change that behaviour in the Organizer preferences (camera or card reader).
Chances are that what you are seeing is not the files names, but the names of the sub-folders including your files with their original names ?

Stil image (photo) quality in rendered project

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