Still photo conversion

Hi. Someone asked me to convert some still photos from their original format which is .pct to .TIF or .jpg. The iLife line-up or FCE are my options, aside from downloading another program. Does anyone know if FCE is capable of this conversion, and if so, how?

I don't recommend it, but technically FCE can do it. However, the resulting image will be the same pixel dimensions as your Sequence settings and limited to 72dpi (if you ever plan to make prints).
To do it in FCE, place the image on the Timeline and the playhead over the image. Go to File->Export->Using QuickTime Conversion. When the Export window opens, choose 'Still Image' from the Format menu and then the file type from the Options menu.
-DH

Similar Messages

Still Photo Aspect Ratio Confusion

Apologize for asking a question on this topic as I have been through the forum and realize the topic of aspect ratio comes up often. I have not however seen this question answered. Quick background:
-Working with HD Video footage imported as SD as I am burning non-HD dvd's and I have heard the conversion in IDVD and Toast from HD is not great;
-Using photos imported from Aperture in FCE;
-Sequence is NTSC anamorphic as I want 16:9 but without HD;
My question is about the aspect ratio of still photos when I bring them into the timeline. I have experimented with saving photos in different aspect ratios: 853x480 and 720x480. When I import into FCE the 853 shows a square pixel and the 720 shows a NTSC pixel. From what I have read this is due to the way FCE interprets the aspect ratio and assigns an pixel aspect. When I view each in the viewer they both look correct when I click the corresponding pixel aspect from the top of the viewer. It is when I move these to the timeline that I get confused. The 853 gets an adjustment of 18.52 and the 720 gets an adjustment of 33.33. What do these adjustments actually represent? Is it a percentage, a number of pixels, something else? When I read about it in the Manual it seems to state that FCE adjusts for the difference between the still and sequence, but then why does it adjust the 720 since it has the same pixel aspect as the sequence? I then tried changing the Pixel aspect of the 853 in the browser to NTSC and moving it to the timeline. I get the same 33.33 adjustment. The 33.33 does not look correct in either of them, but when I change it to 18.52 it looks correct (with the pixel aspect at square, with it not checked it looks "skinny" or squished).
Only thing I can think is that it has something to do with the anamorphic adjustment and the squeezing that goes on with it as 18.52 as 853 (widescreen) is 18.47 percent wider the 720.
At this point I am really not sure how these will display when I make a dvd and display on a widescreen tv. I would prefer not to do this by guessing or looking at the picture, but instead by understanding what FCE is doing and making sure I have the settings and adjustments correct.
Sorry for the long message, but would really appreciate any advice

Michael,
sorry to disagree, but for sure I was not clear, and the topic is quite complex. So I decided to provide an overview (as much as I can...) of the various combinations of clips inserted into various sequences with all settings - possibly on my web site (I'm afraid other posters are getting bored about all this math).
But since this is taking quite a bit of time, let me just tell you now where I disagree about your findings. When I'll have my overview completed I hope that will better explain what I mean.
_Your point 1_.
I'm pretty sure you (unwillingly) are importing your 16:9 square pixel NTSC clip into a +4:3 CCIR pixel NTSC sequence+ (not your original 16:9 anamorphic NTSC sequence). Please check your sequence settings by selecting the sequence in the browser in list view and reading the Frame Size, Pixel Aspect, and Anamorphic fields.
a. If your sequence is in fact +4:3 CCIR pixel NTSC sequence+, by applying the formulas you get:
- PARclip for +16:9 square pixel NTSC+ clip = 853/853 = 1 (as for any square pixel clip)
- but PARseq is not 1 (as you write) but 640/720 (square/actual pixels) = 0,8888
- Adjust = PARseq/PARclip = 0,8888/1 = 0,8888.
- Since Adjust is <1 Motion Aspect Ratio = - 100* (1/0,8888 -1) = -12,5 as you experienced on FCE. BTW this means that the imported clip has to be squeezed vertically by 12,5% (as opposite of horizontally).
b. If your sequence instead really is +16:9 anamorphic NTSC+ as you seem to imply, then 18,52 is correct as you confirm yourself with "Agree that in the four cases you list it agrees...": it is in fact the 2nd case in my 4 cases list.
_Your point 2_.
Here I suppose the sequence is +16:9 CCIR pixel NTSC+ which has PARseq = 853/720 = 1,1852.
But I'm not clear what you mean by "720/640 NTSC clip". My guess is that you mean a +4:3 CCIR pixel NTSC+ clip,
then PARclip = 640/720 (square/actual pixels) = 0,8888
then Adjust = PARseq/PARclip = 1,1852/0,8888 = 1,3333 and Motion Aspect Ratio = 100*(1,3333 - 1) = 33,33 as you experienced
_Adjust formula_.
I think this formula in your earlier message is incorrect: Aspect Ratio (in Motion/Distort) = - 100 * (1/Adjust-1) if Adjust ≤ 1; seems like the formula: Aspect Ratio (in Motion/Distort) = 100 * (Adjust-1) if Adjust ≥ 1 works at all times including <1 as follows 100*(.875-1)=-12.5.</div>
This not true (well it is true only for Adjust = 1...). As an example if Adjust = 0,8888 then 100*(0,5-1) = -11,12 (wrong value for this pixel adjustment), while -100*(1/0,8888-1) = -12,51 which is the correct vertical squeeze !!
Why 2 different formulas are needed ? because when Adjust is >1 a +horizontal squeeze+ by Adjust is necessary to fix the pixel aspect ratio misalignement, when Adjust is <1 a +vertical squeeze+ is necessary by 1/Adjust... (figures will help as soon as they are ready for... publishing).
I'm sorry these posts are so long, I try to make them as clear as possible, but the topic is a bit messy and, even if only fractions are involved in this math, their actual meaning is not always intuitive...I'd really appreciate any comment also by more experienced users of FCE/FCP...
Thanks
Piero

How do you drop a still photo into a video?

how do you drop a still photo into a video -- while continuing the audio track unchanded?

by popular demand, Kelli Applies Lip Liner to Audrey's Lips has been completely re-mastered. (ok, it was just one person who asked, but she's a very intelligent and articulate observer of such matters. she noted that the clip suggests "interesting possibilities", but that men probably would be unaware of that. i explained that "men are pretty simple, so we don't see too many moves ahead." she laughed.)
i believe that in an earlier post i indicated that in the re-mastered version i would delete the in-camera audio and dub in the audio from the Zoom H4n audio recorder. this i did.
(syncing the video and audio continues to be a nightmare, though ).
besides signifcantly improving the sound quality, using a separately recorded audio source allowed me to drop (2) still photos into the video track, and still preserve the continuity of the recorded conversation.
dropping in the stills the correct way (unlike in the first re-mastered video) was easier than i thought it would be. it's just a matter of dragging the Premiere Elements 7's red vertical timeline-cursor to the point on the timeline where you want the insert to begin, and then dragging and dropping the still photo alongside the red cursor. the amount of time the still will appear can be shortened or lengthened by dragging with the mouse -- the same way any other file can be extended or contracted.
the video coming out from the still was now running behind the soundtrack. but, the timeline shows the exact duration of the still, so the video coming out was shortened with the mouse by that same duration, and then the audio and video were back in sync.
to add the "sound effect" of the camera's shutter clicking (actually its mirror slapping) before each still appears, i found a point on the audio recording that had the click of my camera actually taking a still, and that had only a little audio from the models underneath it. removing all the audio before and after the sound of the camera click was, again, just a matter of finding the start/stop points i wanted, moving the timeline's red cursor to those points, and using the mouse to drag the ends of the audio file alongside the cursor.
because i wanted the sound of the camera click to merge with the converation anyway, i just put the audio file of the click on its own audio track (which allowed me to separately control its volume).
however, when i tried to copy and paste the audio file of the camera click to the beginning of the second still photo, i was not able to copy and paste by the normal method of using the mouse to right-click-file/left-click-"copy"/left-click-"paste". eventually, i tried doing so by clicking on "edit" on the menu bar at the upper left and then clicking on "copy" and "paste", and there was no problem. (go figure.)
as with the other re-mastered video, i brightened, increased contrast, made the hue a bit warmer, and added a little sharpening. (this has to be done individually for each separate video file that makes up the whole piece -- at least that's what i did.)
interestingly, the audio level can be tweaked directly on the timeline by using the mouse to drag up or down a horizontal yellow line running the length of the audio file.
i again rendered in Adobe Flash Video (.flv). (annoyingly, in XP at least, there's a default download destination that has to be reset everytime you want to save in a different location). from a drop-down menu i selected "NTSC Flash Video 700k" (just in case) and left the file name as "Untitled" (since no matter what i change it to, it saves as "untitled.flv", so i have to rename it anyway once it's saved).
i went into "Advanced..." and, to preserve the dimensions and the HD, i unchecked "Resize Video", chose "Same as source" for the frame rate, and checked 2 "Encoding Passes" (just in case).
for some reason, everytime i click the "save" button, it asks what i want to call these settings. if i use the name i used for the same settings on the previous go-round, it says that that name is already used and (impliedly) can't be used again. so, i add the new date, and yet another name for the same settings gets added to the drop-down menu (odd).
once the compressed .flv file was saved, it was an easy upload to youtube.
btw, it seems that the Elements 7's Audio Mix defaults to 0 dB, OR whatever the setting was in the prior saved version, unless i use the mouse to continuously "ride the slider pot". that's ok for a 48-second video, but does anyone know of a way the dB can be set so that it just sits there, instead of moving back to where it previously was

Loss of still photos in Premiere Elements 10

I have recently installed Premiere Elements 12 and have Prem El 9 & 10 also installed. I am using the book "Classroom in a Book" to gain experience in 12. To undertake the exercises I had to use the project setting NTSC-AVCHD. My normal setting is PAL HD. When I went back to projects in 10 the still photos were shown as "media off line". The videos were still correctly present. The stills were quite OK in Elements 10. How can I get the projects in 10 back? (I have tried re-setting the project setting to PAL HD).

Wendy and Scott
Please clarify from where you are missing stills - in the Elements Organizer and/or the Premiere Elements workspace (media area and/or Timeline).
Are you moving, deleting, renaming files and folders involved in a project after you have saved/closed the project?
Premiere Elements 10 project.prel (provided its source media are connected) can usually be opened in Premiere Elements 12 by right clicking the 10 project.prel file, selecting Open With, and then Premiere Elements 12. Since 12 edited project.prel cannot be edited again in 10, best make a copy of 10 project.prel for the editing in version 12.
Also, if you have important entries in the Elements Organizer 10 and you want them in Elements Organizer 12, look into 10 catelog conversion in Elements Organizer 12.
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/premiereelements/using/WSeffff8bffc80208425a1a43130aca3394e-7f ff.html
ATR

I have used still photos to make a Quick Time movie using FCE. The DVD made using i-DVD looks somewhat grainy and the motion isn't smooth when played on my TV. Other DVD's I have made play much better and I am wondering if the problem is my Quick Time m

I have used still photos to make a Quick Time movie using FCE. The DVD made using i-DVD looks somewhat grainy and the motion isn’t smooth when played on my TV. Other DVD’s I have made play much better and I am wondering if the problem is my Quick Time movie settings. The Dimensions and size of the problem movie are 1920X1080 and 584 MB respectively, while the movies that play better have Dimensions of 853X480 and are about 1.3 GB in size. Is this the source of my problem and how do I change things for the better.

Are you exporting to QuickTime Movie, or to QuickTime Conversion? For iDVD, you need to export to QuickTime Movie. Exporting to QT Conversion will kill the quality if you are moving the video from FCE to iDVD.
The file size per se makes no difference.
What size (pixel dimensions) are the photos that you put into your 1920x1080 sequence? Also, exactly what are the sequence properties ... is it 1920x1080i60 ... or i50? In North America it should be i60.
853X480 is an odd frame size. Where are you seeing this number? It would appear to be DV-NTSC, which has a frame size of 720x480. Your 1920x1080 frame size would not be DV-NTSC, it would be Apple Intermediate Codec. DV and AIC will look different, for sure.
Also, your quality setting in iDVD can affect the final video. You may want to check that also (in iDVD Preferences > Projects). Set it to Professional Quality if at all possible.

How do I capture a still photo from my video footage??

Probably easy I know, but just wondering how to capture a still photo from my video footage. I pulled a particular clip into my viewer window and have found the still shot I want, what next??
Thanks in advance for any help.
Cheers,
Bill
Boulder

Put the playhead over the frame in the timeline and choose Modify>Make Freeze Frame. It will appear in the Viewer window. Drag it into the timeline.
If you want a photo for iPhoto etc. put the playhead over the frame and select File>Export>Using QuickTime Conversion.
In the window that opens change the "Format" setting to Still Image from the dropdown menu.

I need to add text over a still photo in iMovie. Following directions that always worked before but not this time.

I am running OS 10.6.8, an upgrade that I did after Christmas. A couple of times a year, I need to make a video of my students' performances, and have always been able to add text over the still photos before, using the directions in iMovie "help." However, this time, I am not able to choose a title style; no amount of clicking makes anything show up on the selected still photo. And no amount of trying to choose the font style makes anything show up either.
This is iMovie 09; is it possible that it is not compatible with my OS upgrade?
I've been able to insert still photos into the video footage, but can't add any titles or acknowledgements. Thank you so much for your help! Since I only do this a couple of times a year, it always takes me forever to accomplish, which is why I printed off the Help directions to follow.

just to make thing clear (sorry for sounding impudent!)
you do .... :
create a New Project
make a selection of an Event and add it to the Project
select a title and drag it onto the clip?
iM does work with your OS ...

How can I make a still photo from imovie

How can I make a still photo from imovie?

Let's assume you have iMovie 11 (Version 9). (If you have a different version, let me know. The instructions will be different.)
First, get an app called MPEG Streamclip, which is free. (google MPEG Streamclip from Squared 5)
Open MPEG Streamclip.
In iMovie, select the clip you need. Then, right-click/Reveal in Finder.
Drag this clip into MPEG Streamclip
In MPEG Streamclip, move the playhead to the frame you want.
In MPEG Streamclip, click FILE/EXPORT FRAME.
Choose JPEG, TIFF, or PNG and give it a name.
You can then drag this photo into iPhoto.
I have created a short video Tutorial on how to do this. There is one error in the Tutorial, where it says that Command-click is the same as right-click. I should have said Control-click instead.

Problem exporting Premiere Pro CS5.5 projects with still photos and h264 video

I'm a longtime Final Cut Pro user and evaluating Premiere Pro for my workplace before making the switch. I have been running into several problems when I try to export raw h264 video from a Canon 5D combined with still images on a Macbook Pro. Either I receive an error in Premiere Pro saying, "Error compiling movie. Unknown error." or Adobe Media Encoder appears to continue exporting (the time elapsed bar continues to move) even though the time remaining stays frozen once it hits a photo it doesn't like. It's not always the same photo.
I've spent several days trying to troubleshoot the issue, including batch resizing all photos to 1920 wide (to match the video settings), and it hasn't work. The sequence is currently set to render in ProRes 422. I've also tried HDV 1080p30 and MPEG-4. I cannot find any consistency with the errors. Occasionally an export will work, but every couple still photos will look like green static. I've also tried batch converting the photos in Photoshop to PNG and GIF without any luck. I'd include my default export settings but I've pretty much tried it all. I'm just trying to figure out what's causing the error since the message is very vague.
Couple other notes:
There's plenty hard drive space available for export
I can export the DSLR video (h264, 1080p30) without still photos no problem
I can edit the same still photos and video in Final Cut with no problem
I have the same problem with auto-save on and off
I tried re-installing production premium, deleting the preference files and cleaning the media cache - no luck. I also tried exporting under a different user account and it wouldn't work.
This is driving absolutely crazy. I'm affraid to use PP on deadline because I don't see any issues until it's time to export. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
- McKenna

Thanks Todd. Your questions were actually very helpful. I'm using a Macbook Pro with an Intel Core i7 processor and NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M graphics card. I'm running OS 10.6.8 and have the latest updates installed.
When I disabled the GPU acceleration, I was able to render and export without a problem. The problem only occured when using the GPU acceleration and mixing h264 with still photos. It also affected both rendered previews and the final export. I'm assuming its a support issue with the graphics cards, but it would be great if you had any other ideas. I appreciate your help.

Still photos in PRE 12 and output to HD DVD for TV

Hi,
I was using Final Cut Express 4 HD on my old iMac but bought a new late 2013 iMac and learned that FCE will not run on Mavericks (and if you install it you will destroy your OS X plugin manager without any chance to repair it)!
Ok FC Pro X is far way to expensive for me right now, as I just use the app to build nicer photo slide shows. iMove has just a single track and therefore I'm already on the limits. Ok this is where PRE 12 comes into the game and so far I love what I see in the editor. But when it comes to exporting and sharing my work for Full HD TV I'm more than disappointed.
Here is what I use. I exported all my images with 1920x1080 pixels as JPG, max quality with 72dpi and they are looking great on my iMac.
When I import the stills into PRE they are OK when I see them in the editor. I switched off the still optimization feature and set the highest quality to render the preview.
When looking at the clip on my iMac in the editor is ok so far, but at full screen the images are unsharp, blurry and have ghosting and artefacts. Well I could live with that when it would only be the preview but exporting the video a DVD with Full HD the result is as the preview, images are unsharp, blurry showing artefacts and ghosting. And I can't make it better by manipulating the settiings in the DVD dialog. Maybe I'm doing it wrong!?
The only way to make my photos in the video looking tack sharp and brilliant as they are is when I use MPEG format with Full HD settings and look at the video with quick time.
Why don't I get the same result when burning the video on DVD? Any hints?
In regards to the DVD quality I had no problems with FCE 4 HD! And the images (still photos) are the same footage I used to compare the output!
Secondly I just use the PRE 12 trial version, hope that this is not the reason? The annoying "always on" banner saying that it is a trial version is already something I dislike, but what I experience and makes it even worse is that PRE 12 is crashing again and again on different steps I take, sometimes when I change a setting, sometimes when I scrub, sometimes when selecting a fade, sometimes when importing footage and other step....
With all this the disappointing quality on DVD's and the many crashes I can't find a lot of arguments right now to make the trial a full version?!
Cheers and many thanks for help!
Happy New Year!
Yogie

Yogi
First, I want you to assure that you are not bothered by pile ups of preview files, conformed audio, and conformed video files. If these files are in the default location, please check wherever they may be in Premiere Elements 12 Mac (I am strictly an Elements Windows user)....
Adobe Premiere Elements Preview Files Folder....preview files
Media Cache Folder (cfa and pek files)....conformed audio
Media Cache (.mcdb files)....conformed video
Check Edit Menu/Preferences/Scratch Disks to assure that all the scratch disk categories are directed to a hard drive save location with adequate free space to accept them.
Now for the project itself...set the Premiere Elements 12 project preset manually, using
File Menu/New/Project
PAL
DSLR
1080p
DSLR 1080p25
Before you close out of there, make sure that you have a check mark next to "Force Selected Project Setting on This Project". Then, when you enter the Premiere Elements workspace, import your source media into the project with Add Media/Files and Folders/Project Assets.
Render the Timeline and then decide if the image quality is impoved. You might explore applying a very small Sharpen effect to the images. Have the others taken you through the drill of evaluating your computer video card and its driver version?
ATR
Let us determine what we have at this stage and then we can decide if any improvement on the path to PAL DVD-VIDEO Widescreen on DVD disc.
Thank you.
ATR

How can i change an ipad2 video to a still photo?

Hos can I change a ipad video to a still photo?

If they are videos that you've taken with the iPad then there are some apps that claim to be able to do it e.g Video 2 Photo appear to have decent reviews/ratings.

Why can't I split a still photo clip?

Hello...
I am working on a photo montage using imovie. There are also video clips added into the project as well.
I can split a video clip. No problem.
But when I go to split a still photo in the project that is from iphoto, instead of splitting the clip, it DUPLICATES the entire clip and adds it after the clip that I was trying to split.
It is necessary that I be able to split clips to the beat of the music. And for some reason I can't split still photos.
What am I doing wrong?

Have you considered using the Beat Marker feature? It is much faster.
http://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/imovie_09_stone.html#markers
Here is a good example.

The editable rectangles of my still photos in the composition panel suddenly stopped showing up.

Hi There, Adobe Community!
I am relatively new to After Effects CC and am using it to create a stop motion film with a large amount of photos.
Usually, when importing the individual images into my composition panel, a sequence of editable rectangles appears in the compostition panel allowing me to edit the frame length of the still photos.
After around 950 imported images, the little rectangles suddenly stopped showing up. But when looking at a preview of the project, it's as if the photos are in there, in the sequence they should be. I'm just unable to edit them like the previous ones with recangles showing.
I probably am not describing this too well, so here is a screen shot which hopefully makes my problem somewhat more clear. The area of issue is where you see the descending sequence of boxes in the comp panel. The red tracking bar is there to show that there are still photos continuing the sequence, I just can't see the boxes for em..
thank you so much for any help in the matter!

So I guess you are talking about the layers in the timeline go missing, not the handles in the Comp Window.
I think you have run into a display bug. Try selecting the top hundred or so layers and pre-compose them. If the missing layers appear then that's the problem. I have had it happen a couple of times before in previous versions of AE..
Here's a workflow hint for you, break your comps up into short sequences instead of trying to do a 4 or 5 minute piece with 900 layers in a single comp. You'll find editing and changing a lot easier.
I would also pre-mix your music. AE is a really terrible music mixer....

Acceptable File Size and Resolution for Still Photos in Keyframe Motion

Hello Hello
I know that FCE HD (as other Video Editors), will automatically fit a still photo's size to it's default capability of 720 x 480 Correct?
Well, in regard to making the best possible ZOOMS, and Pans from Still Photos, is it neccessary to re-size all your photos (from an external editor like photoshop), to a specfic size?
According to an older book for FCE, it sez that actually photos re-sized to 720x534 with a resolution of 72 are best. *The proper proportion for NTSC.
And I noticed that when I inserted larger JPG still sizes (like about a meg), on the FCE timline, and when applying Panning, or Zooms, some of the rendered images with motion didn't pan or zoom smoothly.
Is that because those file sizes were TOO large?
Well I have soooo many stills that need to be imported into this particular project that it would be a lot easier for me to just generally reduce these stills (by percentage).
And is the magic resolution amount supposed to be 72?
Because if that's the case I can re-size all my photos to 72, and try to keep the file sizes down to say 300 KB's or so.
Sound like a plan?

Thank you guys
"basically, you should try to make your images large enough so they never have to be scaled beyond 100% in the motion tab in fcp."
Actually as I mentioned some of these file sizes are very large. About 800-900 KB's - and what as a result, what I've noticed is that I actually had to DECREASE the viewing area in both the Browser Window, and the Canvas Winbow just to be able to see the whole image.
Ok - so the 72 DPI is not as important as the dimensions of the photo. But as I said I have soooooo many of these that it would take me forever to manually re-size them all not to mention the fact that re-sizing some of them (odd shapes),would throw the images out of balance.
So again I ask - if there is NO motion applied to the photo, file sizes of about 200 to 350 KB's appear just beautifully ....
BUT
If I need to PAN or ZOOM, is it ok to laod a 1 MEG sized JPG onto the timeline and start working with Keyframe?????
In fact in some cases I'm actually using these larger file JPS's (1 meg or more), so that they TOTALLLY fit the canvas window (cropping them by enlargment)
*With some clipping of the original image of course ...
Why do I do this?
So that you don't see the usual border with horizontal images, or vertical images - know what I mean?
Thanx

S-video Output work on Foreign Format TV (to View Still Photos)

Can I view still photos from 5th generation video iPod on an Australian or other foreign country TV using universal dock and S-video connection?
MacBook Pro 15" Mac OS X (10.4.8) 2 GB RAM
MacBook Pro 15" Mac OS X (10.4.8) 2 GB RAM

Found answer in manual, which had been lost.

Still photo conversion

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