Still photo "zoom" through motion

Hi,
I'm trying to create a "memories slideshow" consisting of still photos that zoom in slowly. I'm encountering a couple problems that I'm hoping to get help with:
1) When zooming in by setting keyframes in each clip's motion tab, I find that it's difficult to get each photo to zoom in at the same speed and direction. Is there a shortcut to doing this easily? I guess the effect I'm aiming for is similar to what iPhoto does automatically with an album slideshow, just more controlled. (Is there any way to just do this from iPhoto and adjust the settings for each clip's duration and zoom?)
2) When I zoom in I find that the images become very blurry, although they are less so when viewed in the program I used to scan them (Lexmark Imaging Studio on a PC). I scanned the images at 300 DPI and saved them to JPEG. I realize these settings may not be optimal - what DPI and file format are recommended if I want to zoom in to, say, 5x?
Thanks.

1) When zooming in by setting keyframes in each
clip's motion tab, I find that it's difficult to get
each photo to zoom in at the same speed and
direction. Is there a shortcut to doing this easily?
I guess the effect I'm aiming for is similar to what
iPhoto does automatically with an album slideshow,
just more controlled. (Is there any way to just do
this from iPhoto and adjust the settings for each
clip's duration and zoom?)
Speed of a move is dependent upon the length of of the move. A move set up to do the "same" thing will be faster if there is a shorter duration between the keyframes. if all of you photos are the same size and aspect ratio, set one up to your liking then save that as a Motion Favorite, then you can apply that to them all. And there is no way to take info from iPhoto and adjust in FCP.
2) When I zoom in I find that the images become very
blurry, although they are less so when viewed in the
program I used to scan them (Lexmark Imaging Studio
on a PC). I scanned the images at 300 DPI and saved
them to JPEG. I realize these settings may not be
optimal - what DPI and file format are recommended if
I want to zoom in to, say, 5x?
300dpi is high for video. Video is 72dpi. But a higher dpi scan means you can zoom further in without the image breaking up. If they are blurry... have you rendered the move? They should look better when rendered.
Doing still moves is a difficult task. If you search the forum you will find many topics on the issue that will provide valuable tips.

Similar Messages

Acceptable File Size and Resolution for Still Photos in Keyframe Motion

Hello Hello
I know that FCE HD (as other Video Editors), will automatically fit a still photo's size to it's default capability of 720 x 480 Correct?
Well, in regard to making the best possible ZOOMS, and Pans from Still Photos, is it neccessary to re-size all your photos (from an external editor like photoshop), to a specfic size?
According to an older book for FCE, it sez that actually photos re-sized to 720x534 with a resolution of 72 are best. *The proper proportion for NTSC.
And I noticed that when I inserted larger JPG still sizes (like about a meg), on the FCE timline, and when applying Panning, or Zooms, some of the rendered images with motion didn't pan or zoom smoothly.
Is that because those file sizes were TOO large?
Well I have soooo many stills that need to be imported into this particular project that it would be a lot easier for me to just generally reduce these stills (by percentage).
And is the magic resolution amount supposed to be 72?
Because if that's the case I can re-size all my photos to 72, and try to keep the file sizes down to say 300 KB's or so.
Sound like a plan?

Thank you guys
"basically, you should try to make your images large enough so they never have to be scaled beyond 100% in the motion tab in fcp."
Actually as I mentioned some of these file sizes are very large. About 800-900 KB's - and what as a result, what I've noticed is that I actually had to DECREASE the viewing area in both the Browser Window, and the Canvas Winbow just to be able to see the whole image.
Ok - so the 72 DPI is not as important as the dimensions of the photo. But as I said I have soooooo many of these that it would take me forever to manually re-size them all not to mention the fact that re-sizing some of them (odd shapes),would throw the images out of balance.
So again I ask - if there is NO motion applied to the photo, file sizes of about 200 to 350 KB's appear just beautifully ....
BUT
If I need to PAN or ZOOM, is it ok to laod a 1 MEG sized JPG onto the timeline and start working with Keyframe?????
In fact in some cases I'm actually using these larger file JPS's (1 meg or more), so that they TOTALLLY fit the canvas window (cropping them by enlargment)
*With some clipping of the original image of course ...
Why do I do this?
So that you don't see the usual border with horizontal images, or vertical images - know what I mean?
Thanx

Still photo scaling and motion

I'm editing a series of still photos and can't figure out how to properly scale the photos and add zooms and other motions. Any advice??

To do this in FCP, place the images in the order you want on the Timeline. Double-click one to load it into the Viewer window. Click on the Motion tab, then use the SCALE and CENTER controls to set the animation you want.
Once you set the initial keyframe for an image, FCP will automatically add new keyframes for each change over the duration of the image. Setting the Canvas window to Image+Wireframe mode will allow you to scale and drag the image with the mouse.
This book may help: http://tinyurl.com/5csyaw
-DH

Can't get still photos that have motion key frames to stop "shaking."

Hi folks,
I am currently trying to make a video comprised soley of still photos for a friend that has recently lost his 16 year old daughter to a tragic accident. I'm trying to get this done by Saturday June 13th. I'm setting motion keyframes throught the viewers "motion" tab and when I play the final result I see in almost every picture popping and shaking while in motion. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a specific way to upload the pics or format them so this doesn't happen? I'm using FCE 4 with an iMac G5 (pre-INTEL). If someone could help me with this I would really be grateful. Thanks again.
Message was edited by: BudweiserDave
Message was edited by: BudweiserDave

Most of these errors are related to trying to view the results on a progressive computer monitor instead of an interlaced tv set.
You could export the whole movie and reimport it as a single item. apply a 2 pixel vertical blur to the whole thing, render, print.
bogiesan

How do I create motion for still photos/pictures. I'd like to pan/scan & zoom. Please help!

How do I create motion for still photos/pictures. I'd like to pan/scan & zoom. Please help!

You kind of answered your own question..
Check out Motion in the FX Control Window and learn how keyframing works..

Motion unresponsive with many still photos

I've read many posts dealing with Motion 3's slow performance - especially in projects with a lot of elements... but none of them have provided a solution that has worked for me.
I have a project that is made of many still photos in jpeg format. In one scene I've built a 13 x 13 matrix of many still photos (169 total photos). It looks fantastic - too bad I can't manipulate the photos for editing since Motion just chokes on it.
Is there any way I can do something to that scene so I don't have to wait 30 mins for it to load and another 30 mins after a single edit?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Using a replicator was a thought I had initially - but the matrix of photos will be animated in such a way where I would want more control of every single photo going forward in the project. It's sorta like that old iPod/iTunes commercial they released a while back where a tower of album art gets sucked into an iPod (remember that one?).
For this same reason I didn't want to shrink the photos before importing them into Motion - since I would be zooming in and out of certain photos of the matrix and I didn't want to lose image quality.
but perhaps I could shrink them a bit more before importing - I just don't know how much that would help it.
Message was edited by: yeequon

Want to know if Premiere Elements has the capability to show movement on a still photo? Such as zoom

I am thinking of purchasing PE 12 if it has the capability to take a still photo and move the camera around on it like many videos I have seen. I am currently using PE 9. Thanks for any help on this subject.

Railfan Ken
What are you doing in Premiere Elements 9.0/9.0.1?
Are you keyframing the Motion properties of Scale (for Zoom) and Position (for Pan) to get a pan and zoom effect?
or
Are you using the Edit Header/Effects/Presets and one of the presets for a pan OR zoom effect (the Presets allow for only a pan per picture or a zoom per picture but not a pan and zoom per picture).
or
Have you been using the Elements Organizer 9 Slideshow Editor to create a slideshow with the pan and zoom feature there and then transfer the Elements Organizer 9 slideshow to Premiere Elements?
If it is the Premiere Elements 10, 11, or 12 Pan and Zoom Tool that is making you think to laterversion than 9.0/9.0.1, perhaps the following Adobe document may give you more information on that.
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/premiereelements/using/WSeffff8bffc802084-494411db12fd35452dd- 8000.html
ATR

Still photo motion

Hey,
When I import a .jpg file it automatically does a slow zoom in motion. Anyway to cancel this and just display the still pic as it is?
Chris

Hi Chris
Go to Media, then click on photos, then sow settings. You can turn off the Ken Burns effect there.
Carl

Applying widescreen matte to still photos in motion

I shot some footage for a documentary using my Canon XL2, 16:9 format. I'm adding some still photos using motion. Is it possible to apply the Widescreen matte effect so the photos match the widescreen look of my footage? I can't figure out how.

Use the Photoshop preset for DV/D1 widescreen as a template and paste your photos into that.
You will need to use Photoshop's Transform controls to frame your photos and have to decide what part of the top and/or bottom gets cropped off.
If you want to zoom or pan, use the original photos in Motion and make sure the photo fills the screen at its smallest size. Again, you will have to sacrifice the top or bottom of the photo to some extent.
If you absolutely must see all of the photo's content, consider using a complimentary background fill, perhaps with some blurring. Place your photo on top and shrink it down to within the safe area.

I have used still photos to make a Quick Time movie using FCE. The DVD made using i-DVD looks somewhat grainy and the motion isn't smooth when played on my TV. Other DVD's I have made play much better and I am wondering if the problem is my Quick Time m

I have used still photos to make a Quick Time movie using FCE. The DVD made using i-DVD looks somewhat grainy and the motion isn’t smooth when played on my TV. Other DVD’s I have made play much better and I am wondering if the problem is my Quick Time movie settings. The Dimensions and size of the problem movie are 1920X1080 and 584 MB respectively, while the movies that play better have Dimensions of 853X480 and are about 1.3 GB in size. Is this the source of my problem and how do I change things for the better.

Are you exporting to QuickTime Movie, or to QuickTime Conversion? For iDVD, you need to export to QuickTime Movie. Exporting to QT Conversion will kill the quality if you are moving the video from FCE to iDVD.
The file size per se makes no difference.
What size (pixel dimensions) are the photos that you put into your 1920x1080 sequence? Also, exactly what are the sequence properties ... is it 1920x1080i60 ... or i50? In North America it should be i60.
853X480 is an odd frame size. Where are you seeing this number? It would appear to be DV-NTSC, which has a frame size of 720x480. Your 1920x1080 frame size would not be DV-NTSC, it would be Apple Intermediate Codec. DV and AIC will look different, for sure.
Also, your quality setting in iDVD can affect the final video. You may want to check that also (in iDVD Preferences > Projects). Set it to Professional Quality if at all possible.

Can you make still photos have a 3D "look" in Motion 5?

Hello All,
I don't mean 3D like the kind you need to see with blue and red glasses, I mean that technique where you can make different objects in the still photo appear as if the camera is moving passed them.
If this can be done in Motion 5 does anyone here know of a good tutorial?
Thanks for your help.
Mike

Michael Ryan. wrote:
… Can this be used on video? (I have some old film I would like to touch up).…
no, sorry, me lost in translation:
I meant, if you have to do some graphics FOR, not with video (arrows, titles, UFOs, masks), Pixelmator is an excellent tool.
spicing up old film ...
a) it IS old … so, why not keeping it looking 'old'?
b) I was lately allowed to use NEAT Video .... I had to use some badly worse compressed arial TV recordings.avi in a HDef project (LOL!) - and that Neat filter did marvel! it didn't only reduced 'noise', it made it vanish. ok, if you exaggerate, the picture gets a 'flat', posterized look. Neat is actually offering a Home edition for 49$ - that's a snap.
c) usually, if you use M5, you're using FCPX too - its filters and the Color-'board', wisely used, allow to push faded colors and contrasts very easy = I'm no professional color-grader, but the Color Correction tools are dead easy (deeper shadows? 'deepen'/lower low tones. less orange? drag 'pointer' to orange, low that … etc really 'real life logic', not some weird tech-lingo .... )
for beginners like me, this is my source
http://www.colorgradingcentral.com/final-cut-pro-x-color-grading-table-of-conten ts

Making simple Cross desolves at the end of still photo clips from my library. Not making a clean disolve beteen. Single frames from the previous clip are flashing half way through the desolve. Did both a drag and drop and insert disolve.

Making simple cross desolves at the end of still photo clips from my library.
Not making a clean disolve between clips.
Single frames from the previous clip are flashing half way through the desolve.
Did both a drag and drop and insert disolve.

Making simple cross desolves at the end of still photo clips from my library.
Not making a clean disolve between clips.
Single frames from the previous clip are flashing half way through the desolve.
Did both a drag and drop and insert disolve.

Eliminate zoom for still photos

I am making a movie with stills and music. Each photo zooms in. Can I stop the zoom?

Hi
YES - Ken-Burns Effect can be most annoying. I also wished that I was asked to turn it on when needed - Not being forced to turn it off - ALWAYS - as I never use it. (A 100% irritation factor)
• Select all photo clips in Project.
• Click on the small double L-shaped black symbol in one of them
then select Adjust (Anpassa) - followed by Done (Klar)
Usually this takes effect on all selected Photos.
Yours Bengt W

I'm trying to make "Stop motion videos" in Final Cut EXPRESS by using 100's of still photos and setting them to music. They are coming out blurry if viewed larger than 4x6 in size

I'm trying to make "Stop motion videos" in Final Cut EXPRESS by using 100's of still photos and setting them to music. They are coming out blurry if viewed larger than 4x6 in size.
I don't understand why this is happening.

Quick follow up, since I was on my phone earlier and am back to a real keyboard.
To access Easy Setup, hit Control Q.
If you click on the blue discosure triangles, a dropdown menu with about a dozen different presets will be displayed. Select the one you want, (Here, I've selected 720P.)
Whatever you select for a preset will not be applied until you make a new sequence. (I don't like to have sequences with different properties in the same project so I prefer to make a new project if I change the Easy Setup.)
Because photo aspect ratios are different than video, I typically put a solid generator of some compatible color on the first track (v1) and put my photos on the track above (v2). Looks better, IMO, than black bars. There are other creative ways to display them. And of course, you could scale them up to fill the frame…but then you probably would have to re-position them.
Good luck.
Russ

Acceptable and Quality Still Photo Resolution for HDV Documentary

I've scanned through several pages of posts on photo resolution here, but I haven't actually found a simple answer to a beginner's question. Two, actually:
1. If someone is supplying you with still photo prints for scanning and use in a documentary (shot in HDV, edited on FCP5), is there a particular size print that you should ask for? Does the broadcast venue (theatrical, TV, etc.) have any relevance?
2. If someone is scanning photos and sending you a CD with them, what are the specs (size, resolution, etc.) you should ask for? And are there "minimum acceptable" specs and "preferred, high quality" specs?
Thanks.
Paul S.
Power Mac G5 [email protected]; 4GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.4) FCP 5 (FC Studio), Logic Express, Presonus Firebox

Having worked on several long-form historical docos with hundreds of source photo scans, I'd highly recommend getting the originals in as high a resolution as you can (at least 300 DPI), and getting the entire photo scanned. You just never know when you need to apply pans or zooms or crop into a particular area to improve the edit, and there are many simple ways to prep the selected photos for import.
The simplest is just to do the scaling & cropping in FCP. It will do a fine job of this, but if it turns out most of the photos will be static, you can waste computer resources by importing unnecessarily-large images. As mooblie pointed out, you strictly only need enough resolution to prevent scaling up past 100%, as this will create pixelated lower quality output.
The most common way to prep scans is in Photoshop, where you can scale the image to a desired pixel size very easily. I'd still leave the image at its natural frame size (as scanned), so you have the most creative choice when you are framing it in the timeline using FCPs cropping & motion tabs tools.
If you've got lots of photos and lots of pans & zooms, consider using one of the third-party tools that will help with this, such as Photo to Movie from LQ Graphics, Moving Picture from StageTools, or even the plugin for FCP I wrote to help with the docos I mentioned above. It's called Pan Zoom Pro and you can see about it and download a demo here: http://www.lyric.com/fcp-plugins/index.htm#pzp .
Cheers,
John
Lyric Media

Still photo "zoom" through motion

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for